Here is the same corded impact but on Amazon: amzn.to/3jnl1F7 Enertwist also carries it, but seems to be out of stock there. See FAQ in description for common questions on this video.
My old IR did much better than I expected. I was trying to remember exactly when I got it, I'm thinking mid to late 80's, I'd had it for a few years when I married in 91. It wasn't used in a shop but it's definitely done some hard work. Glad to know it actually made the advertised number.
I would say most outlets are run with 12 gauge cable at least in this country today. So if you’re running a 12 gauge extension cord you’re pretty much running exactly what’s in the wall. Your best case practice is just around the shortest extension cord you can from the closest outlet available to you.
Worse, all of those bright-orange store bought extension cords that are ubiquitous across the entire planetary hemisphere are like 16 gauge. Only toolbuffs//enthusiasts buy an actual 14/12ga
I own one of the Bauer corded. One weekend we were working on a John Deere haybaler. I don’t know if any of you have ever but I will say it will sissyfy a Honda axle nut. After all of our air tools failed, I pulled it from behind the seat of my truck (I have a power inverter), plugged it in and spun the nut straight off. My brother in law went that afternoon and got him one and a power inverter.
I recommend this tool for people who would like to have an impact gun but won’t use it regularly. They just want to have something around the house to be able to break a tire loose or maybe drive some lag bolts building a deck. It’s really an inexpensive gun and something you can afford to purchase to do a single job and then sit on the shelf for a while and use it again later. With the fact that Harbor freight batteries don’t really fit a lot of different tools that you might want to own it’s not worth buying into their system like it is with Milwaukee or Makita so even though they’re getting more tools now than they used to have I prefer to steer clear of their offerings in the battery powered space and just buy their corded tools. This would work fine for somebody who occasionally needed to drive lag bolts or something like that.
Not that it matters for these tests, but that motor actually doesn't even need a rectifier for DC, it runs directly on AC. It's just what's known as a universal motor, and will run just fine on AC or DC. Pretty much any corded tool with brushes uses this type of motor, and if you wired some batteries in series, they'd run on those just fine.
Worth mentioning for those with enough corded tools to benefit (or the right use case) is a fat inverter can run them off your car or truck battery (leave the engine running) especially for intermittent use or if your truck or van has dual batteries (more surge amps). I have corded, pneumatic and cordless tools so not only no dog in the fight but I want to own ALL the dogs. This includes manual slugging wrenches which are glorious, and epicyclic manual torque multipliers which every mechanic should own (X-4 are worth everything they cost and then some but others like them are available). Easy to see why the heavy equipment guys use those.
I bought this corded Bauer when I was having trouble taking an axel nut off. I had a long breaker bar with a cheater bar and it wouldn't budge. This impact pulled it off in 3 seconds. I consider it to be an air impact replacement since I don't have a large air compressor.
Breaking axle nuts is easy push the breaker bar down with one foot no cheater needed. If you weigh around 230lb and using a standard 15" in 1/2 you are creating almost 288 ft lb of torque 230 x 15" or 1.25. No axle nut is torqued beyond that figure unless its commercial duty vehicle or a Semi rig.
@@wmc128 well, it was on an 85 MR2 where everything was rusted. I was bouncing on the end of it and the only thing spinning was the tire on floor. Parking brake was on and my friend was standing on the brakes.
I bought a used Milwaukee 9070-20 corded a few years ago to drive lag bolts. $100 for all day work is a great deal. Since I discovered this channel I've been curious how it compares to the cordless ft/lbs numbers. I'm guessing it'll be around 400 ft/lbs on a 15sec test. It's never had an issue breaking a nut on my trucks. Thanks for doing these tests. It's an awesome resource to cut through the marketing numbers.
Ad a home mechanic who doesn't have the greatest amount of money I honestly love your videos. You guys help me find good tools. Honestly do a lot more on corded tools please.
This is a great tool. When your breaker bar won't work, and you don't have enough money or time to buy $300 battery impact wrench or air one with compressor, I highly recommend getting this. Hub bolt on my civic was stuck and couldn't take it off by 4 ft breaker bar with 220lb me jumping on it. I spent about 3 hrs. But this electric impact removed the bolt in just 2 seconds.
I have the Bauer corded model and it hasn't failed yet. It spun a Honda harmonic balancer bolt out immediately. Never would have thought it did over 400 lbs-ft like that.
I've used one in some pretty heavy-duty situations and I will say that the last time I used it I smelled some burning. This was after failing to break loose an incredibly rusted camper stabilizer jack, so I think I got some of those fireworks without noticing it. In the impact's defense I couldn't get the bolt loose with a 24" breaker bar and good deadlift form, I'm pretty sure that thing is going to take the torch to come loose. I was expecting it to be higher than the cordless since it can pull more power but I guess the motor does the same thing whether it's coming from a battery pack or a wall socket.
@@james10739 O_O SHEEE, good deals lol. Even at the kit price, these are not bad prices when compared to well...the most expensive...Snap on. Milwaukee on a lot of stuff seems to be above the consumer grade and at the more industrial/pro grade but still OK prices. Not HF cheap but also not HF ''quality'' Whatever gets the job done really. That being said, paying like 700 bucks for a BARE TOOL from snap on seems just nuts.
Bought that corded impact a couple years ago. Still works perfect. I love my M12 3/8 impact, and paired with the corded impact no nuts can't be busted.
I bought one of these corded Bauer ones back in 2020 to change the wheel bearing on my 05 Explorer. I paid something like 80 dollars for it plus 30 for HF sockets, and had absolutely no problem getting any nut or bolt out. You should have seen the cloud of rust that flew off when I got that axle nut finally off!
I have an old corded DeWalt impact gun that couldn’t remove much(beyond useless). It was just collecting dust after I invested in real powerful impact wrenches. And I hand an old lawn mower that would give me trouble when it hadn’t ran in a long time. So I welded the hammer and anvil together and made it non-impacting to help me start the mower(worked amazing). But now I run a 40v DeWalt mower. It still has plenty of power for running mixing bits for mortar and cement. Once again, it basically collecting dust.
These corded tools usually don't come with any power inverter box as you stated. These have universal motors in them which as their name suggests can run on both AC and DC. The big size is because these are not as power dense as a brushless dc motor or even brushed one with permanent magnets. So to get same torque out, these are made larger. These are also not very much efficient (30%~70%) as compared to DC motors (70%~90%). That's why in cordless tools these are not used due to limited energy in a battery. But video's are great, keep up the good work😊
After failing to remove a 30mm nut from the rear suspension of my truck with a breaker bar, a pipe, and all my might. I finally gave in and got that same Bauer impact wrench and man, it took it off like it was a little baby nut. "Who's the boss now 30mm nut!?" I recall shouting, it was very satisfying. I did use a high guague extension cord from my generator to make sure it got the juice it needed. I highly recommend 👍
i just picked one up today for a crank pulley nut, before i bought it i soaked it in wd40 overnight hit w/M18 impact wrench first, then cranked on it by hand...said F it and picked up this Bauer and the nut came off in no time.
Corded versions are handy to have around, no $$$ batteries to keep charged, no compressor or other air equipment and for most tire rotations and things like changing mower blades or putting garden benches together they do the job. Especially when you only use the thing 2-3 times a year as a homeowner. I'm actually surprised at the IR rating, that was built during the times when companies were claiming electric motors were at least twice as powerful as they really were by using a locked rotor amp draw as the maximum power numbers. So you had air compressors rated at 5 hp that really were 3 hp or 2 hp water pumps that were 3/4 hp in reality. It is the reason why now they use the "running hp" numbers on compressors and pumps, also the reason why you see small engines with only the displacement on them instead of 4HP or 16 HP like they used to have on them.
The biggest selling point for corded power tools is the low up front costs, the tool itself. Every home diy already has a heavy gauge electric extention cord for other tools (angle grinders, shop vaca, etc) and uses. You don't need an elaborate air source or a proprietary battery. It's more portable than a air tool, as long as you have an outlet. The biggest issue, like you stated, is the larger form factor. I believe the Bauer has been on sale for $60.
Not much difference in an extension cord and wall wiring. Also a suggestion. You could add a cheep meter to the plug like a kilowatt to measure the draw.
I’m glad I don’t have your house’s wiring. Electrical cords are stranded, and thus have a lot smaller load rating compared to the same gauge solid romex and other solid in-wall rated wiring. But the performance of this impact was not drastically reduced, but let that cord get warm, maybe still have 25feet still coiled up on the ground, I’d bet that results would be even more of a loss, maybe not much, probably a total of 10-15% loss but still, you can see the difference in the resistance (and eddy currents when coiled) in extension cord.
@@donpayton737 comparing 12 Guage stranded wire to 12 Guage solid wire are the closest you'll get to "same rating", and the dude literally examined why with an example. You're just to dumb to understand it, clearly.
12 gauge stranded and 12 gauge solid would not be the same rating because stranded and solid are not equal they do not have the same load capacity at equal length. Equally rated wire you would have a larger diameter or lower numbered gauge of a stranded wire to equal a solid wire. So I don't know how is it when that happens
I found these type of corded impact guns used a lot more in construction then in automotive applications. At least typically in what I’ve seen. I have encountered them in the past with folks building decks, foundations, timber frame buildings, etc… where you have to drive a lot of large lag screws. It doesn’t really create a problem that they free spin, because if you’re driving a half or three-quarter inch lag screw it will stop the momentum as soon you let off the trigger. You don’t see them as much now because cordless tools have gotten all the love. But when you can pick this one up for under $100 it’s still not a bad option.
I was just getting into power tools about 3yrs ago when I bought the corded Bauer, hoping to make a complete front end suspension rebuild more fun. Enough power for all the fastener it encountered, but I couldn't access most of them with this behemoth, especially after strapping on a full length 1/2 impact socket. 3yr late... I'm on the big 3 (Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita) battery platform plus others, and this youtube channel has quickly become one of my favorites. Keep up the great work guys (and gals if applicable)!
I use my big Bauer as a backup for very stubborn nuts & bolts. Aside from that I have a stubby M12 3/8 Milwaukee for everyday use. I'm also tempted to buy the 1/4" compact Hercules that HF sells. It looks like it would be good for doing delicate bolts as its' torque rating is low. :)
@@BigMac2222 farmers, tool junkies, hoarders, random old lady that doesn't know what she's doing on RUclips, everybody's Grandpa, everyone's dad, etc...
The Earthquake with 120psi line pressure took off a highly rusted trailer hitch bolt from the frame of a plow truck that our Japan Crafstman and Ryobi P262 couldn’t 🤷♂️ for the $100 I spent on sale, I’m pretty happy so far!
This channel really helps uncover the mysteries of impact drivers. I do find myself looking at reviews of this and other wrenches in this class on various sales sites, and you find many users who say a particular wrench removes anything they throw at it, and then you see reviews where people say the wrench sucks, no power, wouldn't remove anything, etc etc. I always wonder what the true story is for those types of bad reviews, and wonder if I'll run into the same problem. Not sure if you have any input on this comment. Thanks if you do!
I first bought my corded impact from HF because a mechanic had installed a wheel nut hard enough for me to bend tools trying to remove it. Mine is bulky, but for when I need it, it bangs wheel nuts off quick, fast and in a hurry to boorow an AvE'ism... Mine is the old, gabbich style but on the plus side - it came with replacement brushes.
I have one of the big Bauer's like in the video and over torqued lug nuts on my old Silverado were my reason for buying it as well. The massive size doesn't bother me. It's more of a "Just in case" tool for further possible happenings with over torqued fasteners. My main impact wrench is a 3/8 Milwaukee stubby M12. :)
We used an old corded Milwaukee (in the heavy duty orange) rated for 300ft-lb to drive tapcon bolts for pallet and extrusion racks, our shop air impact wouldn't drive them bc of air pressure (shop runs at 90-110 for die grinders, and we were using about 100ft of hose) so someone brought in that old corded Milwaukee and on about the same amount of extention cord it drove them like deck screws. With this being on the cheap end, I could see this being an attractive option for doing a project like that. Or maybe you already run a generator on your jobsite but not a compressor. They also have the cheaper Chicago electric, being about $45, or $35 for ITC. And I'm sure you could find even cheaper on amazon if you're not concerned with warranties.
@ 3:43 I believe you are referring to a rectifier which converts ac to dc, an inverter converts dc to ac; don’t mean to play semantics just want to inform :)
@John G far as I know ac motors do not use commutators, they are akin to brushless dc motors in that they use a rotor and stator. So perhaps it is simply an ac motor in there? If it is brushed then the commutator will be rather large as it acts as a mechanical rectifier.
I have a corded atomic era all-aluminum body impact that I use on my car. Works great. About to put it back into service when I rebuild my suspension next week.
My version of "letting off early" is pulling the tool and socket straight off the nuts while spinning. Then finish with torque wrench. It just removed a flywheel bolt listed at 145ft/lb spec without even blinking.
The old IR, when you have to twist the back of the motor, you have to be careful about turning it too far, or not far enough... They are a bit finicky that way.
Excellent video! Very informative. I purchased the Bauer corded impact wrench for some front end work on my car. This thing ripped every nut and bolt that was rusted and seized. I also used it to press out and install the lower ball joints which are notoriously a problem on chrysler 300. Very impressed with the performance. If I had to give a complaint, it would be that this thing is huge and heavy! Thanks for this video.
What year 300? I had a '67... I made a press from angle iron and two brake drums, used a hydraulic bottle jack to press the joints out (out of the car obviously). I am happy with my Bauer impact, it does stink of Chinesium when you use it.
@@scowell 2006 300. I love to hear about the old school methods. Not much American ingenuity anymore. The smell of chinesium is a bit much, but it goes away. Tool is still a beast!
THIS was a fantastic video. Don’t get me wrong... all your videos are fantastic. This one... extra fantastic. 😂 I love seeing scientific testing being done... when comedy, love moving graphs, and tools are included... it just makes a perfect setup for entertaining me. I sincerely appreciate everything you guys have some with this channel. Can’t thank you enough 🙏
Hi, I just picked up the earthquake xt, it’s a beast, it pulls off rusted bolts with ease and any suspension parts like nothing, very powerful tool, excellent quality video ty so much, regards, Bob,
Thank you, for those weekend warriors where this may be a good option for a "Once in a while" use especially on CV nuts and lugs that my impact driver can't do.
My friend and I each have one of these big Bauer's. He bought his because I let him use mine. I feel this thing is for the instance of needing to pull out the big guns when the bolts/nuts are suborn. For normal everyday use I have a Milwaukee 3/8 M12 stubby impact. :)
That's why I ended up getting mine, I was working on some very stuck bolts on my car and couldn't afford a big enough compressor and powerful air tool, so I figured this thing would give me all day power without worrying about batteries. Now I want to get one of the Thors but I'm pretty sure my 6 gallon air compressor would last like 5 seconds before dropping to useless pressure.
@@eargesplitten9876 That's why I never bothered with air powered impacts. The big air hungry ones like the Thor require a good 60 gallon air compressor to get decent run time if you're doing a lot of bolt removal. A good affordable 60 gallon compressor is between $650 - $750, requires its own 230 volt hardline into the house and needs to be plumed with air lines and fittings. You could probably buy the big battery powered Milwaukee, a couple batteries and charger for cheaper than the air compressor alone. Plus you don't have to put oil in it with every use like air powered ones. That's been my dilemma with trying to get back into autobody painting. In order to get any decent run time with a good spray gun I need a decent sized compressor and good ones are expensive. Which I can't afford it at the moment. Plus I have no place to store it. So all of the rechargeable variants of air tools have been the best choices for me as I already have the batteries. :)
I've used it on axle nuts aka cv nuts without any issues. Also used it to press a bearing with a forcing screw style press. Both are about as tight as bolts/fasteners get on cars. Only tighter bolt on my suv was my control arm bracket and it had no problem there either.
A heavier gauge extension cord will reduce the power loss in the cored impact. You are using a small gauge cord which will cause a voltage drop. It would be good to see a comparison between a 25' or 50' cord comparing 16, 14, and 12ga cords. The higher the amperage of the tool, the higher the voltage drop will be.
I've had an Ingersoll Rand corded impact for 35 years. It's great for tires, but it is too long and unweildy for a lot of mechanic work on a vehicle. And it shoots sparks off the brushes. I used it to break the mounts on a Volvo undercar inline fuel filter. I had released the pressure, but put the fuel cap back on, took a break because it was 110 in my driveway. The heat re-pressurized the line, so that lot of gas sprayed all over me and the cement when the line broke loose. I can still see the sparks flying out of the tool, and remember the sheer terror I felt. I have never gotten out from under a car that fast. Luckily, I let off just in time and didnt ignite myself. I've never used that impact since because the housing broke when I tossed it. And I never worked on that cursed Volvo again, even though the owner was hot as hell. Especially in her mini skirt standing over me on the creeper. But that's another story.
Other household uses would be removing the nut holding wash tub in a top load washer and the anode rod in a water heater. It does not occur often but this tool would deliver.
I bought the corded Bauer impact wrench this weekend for $60 with a coupon. Also got a decent socket set for $20 with a coupon. I don't use an impact wrench enough to warrant buying one with a battery. All I need one for is to break seized on nuts for lawn mower blades.
That is a good video. I bought the porter cable 7.5 amp corded 1/2 inch impact to do some work on my car and truck. The porter cable impressed me with what it can do. It took off CV axle nuts with no problem, it took off the pinion nut on my truck along with doing some suspension work. Would like to know what you think of the porter cable 7.5 amp corded impact.
EEEHHH... I mean if you use a 25 foot 10 gauge extension that's gonna be a lot different than a 50 foot 16 gauge... but I see your point. I do own a few like "12 amp" extension cords.. probably should be illegal but totally fine for running a 1 amp fan or something. I also have a few 10 gauge 50 foot made in usa extension cords for running my 10amp air compressor or anything else that'll draw some juice... terrible idea to skimp out on extension cords! Gotta have at least one good one...
Thanks for doing this one, was wondering how they compared. When working in my garage a cord isn't that big a deal and if I can save some money that's great
That HF is on sale right now. For those that need that much trq a couple times a year it has its place given the price point and performance. Its about 1/3-1/4 the price of similar in performance, popular brands, cordless impacts "tool only". And the HF ratings have it at 96% recommend it.
My general experience with cordless power tools…expect the bare minimum. Corded tools are always the best. Unless you’re a journeyman mechanic, get the corded option. Youll save a lot of sweat and beers.
I remember having a corded drill back in the day that didn't have a reverse. We are spoiled by modern equipment. In fact, my house was built in 1964 by hand. Every board was hand cut and either nailed in or screwed in by hand with flathead wood screws. That would be torture.
I have the Menards Performax corded impact. It was $80 on sale. An absolute beast that pulls off lugs my $400 Snap-On pnuematic cant budge. Pretty sure that Bauer is the exact same model just under a different name. Menards came with a nice carrying case too.
I have an old THOR corded impact. It's all aluminum, and has that ray gun look of the 50s and 60s. Best $10 I spent at a garage sale. It's weak compared to newer stuff, but it worked when I had nothing better.
I've got a corded Dewalt ½" from around "96. $200 at that time I think. Bought it for when I was lagging log homes together. I'm not a fan of Dewalt but It's the strongest impact I've ever had and I still use it occasionally.
I bought the Dewalt version of that corded impact back in the day before I had any kind of shop setup. I had no air compressor and I needed to to take the crank bolt off of my engine to do a front seal and oil pan gasket. I could not have gotten it off otherwise. It's a cheap option considering no need for batteries and you don't need an $800 compressor to make it chooch. It was a barely adequate solution though. Just like this one it kept hitting due to flywheel effect even after you let off the trigger and I doubt it would have touched these torque numbers in your tests because the eventual air impact I replaced it with slaughtered its performance. This once again makes me wonder how that old Earthquake impact with the red painted aluminum body would fare against these newer composite ones with the huge torque claims.
i got this for lugnuts on my car and it works like a champ. i recommend the corded tool if you don't use it all the time. can't beat the price and no dead batteries.
Upgraded from an older 18v kit. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv I independently chose the drill and impact tool, before I came across the kit.I like the 3 speed impact gun. It seems more powerful than my older one, and it can be set to be really gentle. The drill is more appropriately sized for my use. I used to have a hammer drill, but I did not like that it was so big and it was not a great hammer drill. I rather have a smaller drill like this, and then get a corded hammer drill for the odd case I need that.
Your corded impact does not convert AC power to dc. It uses a universal brushed motor that will run on AC or DC. Almost all corded drills, grinders, skill saws ect use this type of motor. Try hooking it up to a 12v battery or 2 in series for 24v, it will work. Many older welders output dc from the 120v plugs just to run grinders and other tools (lincoln sa200)
The air tool coming out early is because of the pressure built up in the line. You'll find that a larger diameter hose and a freer flowing adapter will likely increase the power after the initial burst.
Yeah a big drawback of these corded impacts and some cordless brushed impacts is that they're so bulky that they can't really fit anywhere useful. I think the impact wrench market would be a lot different if corded tools could be made more compact as most everyone who has a garage also has electricity, but not everyone has access to compressed air.
When I reach for an impact space generally isn't much of an issue - I'm sure it sometimes is but the real tough suspension/subframe bolts that these are most useful for... you can often get away with a bulky impact. Especially since the alternative solution is often a big long pipe that you don't have much room to move in the average garage. Cordless tools are great and definitely more compact but more expensive.
I have the older Chicago Electric version. I've used it occasionally for about 15 years and for the $40 I paid it was a good buy. I have air and just recently bought a battery impact now so it's unlikely to see much if any use now. For a budget option it's great, especially if you don't have air.
I had an early 2000s central pneumatics hf plug in impact, a huge beast that could barely break a lugnut. Recently threw it away after 20 years taking tool box room
Wow. Honestly it's impressive. I'm fortunate to have a fully equipped shop but I too have thought about purchasing this for my GFs house a long time ago due to a lack of air compressor. But it's nice to see you CAN get air power out of a straight electric gun like that! Very cool test!
i have one of these and have used it on the suspension in my chevy impala. This think zipped axle nuts right off and everything else i've asked of it. Fantastic deal at 90 bucks and even better on sale.
3:39 I would guess that the motor takes up the full length of the plastic part. You can see the sparks flying around in the back and the fan blades right before the hammer. Also universal motors have no problem running on AC.
Watched this review and decided to get one. 49.99 parking lot sale today ends tomorrow! Havent used it but been wanting a stronger impact then my little dewalt extreme 1/2". Wanted a 891, but for 50 bucks, this will do
Found this after making a comment asking for it elsewhere. It'd be interesting to see HF upgrade this corded impact with brushless motors and smaller length. Metabo makes a brushless corded impact WR16SEM.
this was the first impact I ever had! I've moved on to a ryobi PBLIW01B high torque, but I always keep the bauer around just in case I dont have charged batteries at the moment. only complaint is that it smells pretty bad when running it for any amount of time, although there seems to be no effect on longevity or performance
Ahh!! 😱 that dry fire brings back memories of safety measures. A dude once dry fired an impact with a socket on it, slinging it at himself like David did Goliath. Not that it matters, just brought back some memories that’s all LoL but awesome review!! Keep it up! 👍
I have come to really enjoy your channel. I subbed and liked many of your videos. So many reviews or "tests" of products are terribly subjective. It's comments like "lets see if this will break these really tight lug nuts" that tell me nothing! For example, I own a 1999 F250 super duty 7.3, and I have an $80 Amazon battery powered impact wrench that broke the lugs loose, and they "felt" really tight, but that doesn't really say anything about that driver, because who really knows how tight they were. I really enjoy two things about your channel. One, that most of your tests are minimally subjective and two, you are attempting to be as non bias as possible by not selling out to companies giving you "free" products. There is nothing worse than watching my favorite youtuber pin a product for 3 minutes right before jumping to an add when he/she is done. Thank you!
Last December I was moving, my air compressor was already at the new place, 8 hours away, and I needed an impact wrench. I decided to try the Chicago electric corded impact, and I was not impressed. It wouldn't break loose my axle shift bolts, torqued to 90 ft lbs. My dewalt 20v 1/4" impact driver took them off fine. Now of course I wasn't expecting much but it was garbage. Decided to just get a Kobalt 24v cordless one
I got a HyperTough 7.5amp electric corded impact for $40 new a while ago. Used it last year to remove crank pulley. It wasn't even 5 seconds and it was out. Thing's a heavy beast. Would love to see it on the dyno
I have a cheap corded impact that I bought because, it was cheap. And it works great! In the areas it fits in. It's loosened everything I've tried it against. But there were many times this big behemoth just wouldn't fit. Might be time for a cordless compact.
I just sold my Milwaukee corded 1/2 “ impact. It put in thousands of ledger bolts for decks in its lifetime. But ever since 1/2” lag and carriage bolts have been replaced with smaller more efficient bolts I can put in with my Makita td170 impact or the larger 40v drill it hasn’t come out to play. The new style bolts for deck ledgers explicitly state in the directions to be put in with a drill not an impact
The Bauer corded impact owner’s manual page 7 shows the maximum torque rating at 300 ft. lb. So it’s kinda impressive that it reaches 610 ft. lb. I was on a budget and ended up buying the porter cable because it made more torque for around the same price. Are you going to add the corded ones to the spreadsheet? They will score high in terms of value.
If you are going to test with an extension cord, you would be wise to indicate the gauge of the wire. The orange cords are usually 16 gauge. The 20 amp circuit to the new wall outlet is 12 gauge. A 15 amp circuit is wired with 14 gauge. Using a 14 gauge or 12 gauge extension cord reduces voltage drop compared to that orange 16 gauge cord.
@@wim0104 Correct, My TBI brain farted. I'll fix it. That is a 20 amp outlet. I've wired plenty of 20 amp outlets with the stiff 12 gauge wire when I wire my shop.
How about a test running this off a power inverter from a 12v dc power source to replicate a situation on the side of the road changing a tire using one of these.
I sucked it up and bought some long 12awg better-quality extension cords. It was definitely a worthwhile purchase. Why would the Harbor Freight brushed corded need a power converter? Those brushed motors are called universal motors for a reason: they're usually able to work on AC or DC. My corded drills look like cordless ones with less electronics and a bigger motor. I wonder if the cordless get more because of current rating: lithium ion batteries can dump a ton of current, maybe more than the wall?
So an oddball suggestion. Have you ever used a torque wrench, or torque meter to see how much actual twisting force it takes to equal the compression force you are getting on your meter? I ask because because someone unfamiliar with these tools naturally thinks that is what the marketing is suggesting.
That’s a great idea. Use a torque wrench set at various levels as your calibrated standard for force, and then compare that against what the gauges are telling you. Who knows how far they might … or might not … be off.
@@shubinternet The issue (as I understand it) isn't that their measurement is off, it is that what they are measuring isn't the twisting force applied. They are measuring a clamping force. I believe that is similar to what some manufacturers do also to generate their claims (if they don't just make it up) so it is a reasonable comparison, but not what I think of when I think of force applied to a nut or bolt.
For 70-80 bucks it's more than enough for the average person maintaining their vehicles in the garage. It's big and bulky and heavy but it gets the job done. Haven't found anything it has had an issue with yet!
Here is the same corded impact but on Amazon: amzn.to/3jnl1F7 Enertwist also carries it, but seems to be out of stock there. See FAQ in description for common questions on this video.
@@U.S.A.1791 Send us an email: TorqueTestChannel@gmail.com :)
lol well dam you did do a video on it. . super cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The link is to a 12 volt impact wrench (run off a car).
There was a load of them on eBay shipping from Vietnam for a while. 60 flat.
Menard's also sells under their performax label
My old IR did much better than I expected. I was trying to remember exactly when I got it, I'm thinking mid to late 80's, I'd had it for a few years when I married in 91. It wasn't used in a shop but it's definitely done some hard work. Glad to know it actually made the advertised number.
Now we need to get him a Makita tw1000
Power outlets aren't necessarily better than an extension cord, as long as you run a 10ga extension cord. Plenty of outlets are ran with 12ga or 14ga.
That was my thoughts exactLy
As an electrician, I came to say this.
I would say most outlets are run with 12 gauge cable at least in this country today. So if you’re running a 12 gauge extension cord you’re pretty much running exactly what’s in the wall. Your best case practice is just around the shortest extension cord you can from the closest outlet available to you.
Thanks, we added this to the video's FAQ!
Worse, all of those bright-orange store bought extension cords that are ubiquitous across the entire planetary hemisphere are like 16 gauge. Only toolbuffs//enthusiasts buy an actual 14/12ga
I own one of the Bauer corded. One weekend we were working on a John Deere haybaler. I don’t know if any of you have ever but I will say it will sissyfy a Honda axle nut. After all of our air tools failed, I pulled it from behind the seat of my truck (I have a power inverter), plugged it in and spun the nut straight off. My brother in law went that afternoon and got him one and a power inverter.
I recommend this tool for people who would like to have an impact gun but won’t use it regularly. They just want to have something around the house to be able to break a tire loose or maybe drive some lag bolts building a deck. It’s really an inexpensive gun and something you can afford to purchase to do a single job and then sit on the shelf for a while and use it again later. With the fact that Harbor freight batteries don’t really fit a lot of different tools that you might want to own it’s not worth buying into their system like it is with Milwaukee or Makita so even though they’re getting more tools now than they used to have I prefer to steer clear of their offerings in the battery powered space and just buy their corded tools. This would work fine for somebody who occasionally needed to drive lag bolts or something like that.
Not that it matters for these tests, but that motor actually doesn't even need a rectifier for DC, it runs directly on AC. It's just what's known as a universal motor, and will run just fine on AC or DC. Pretty much any corded tool with brushes uses this type of motor, and if you wired some batteries in series, they'd run on those just fine.
all true, though if the switch isn't DC rated (it's probably not) you'll eventually burn the switch up
Worth mentioning for those with enough corded tools to benefit (or the right use case) is a fat inverter can run them off your car or truck battery (leave the engine running) especially for intermittent use or if your truck or van has dual batteries (more surge amps).
I have corded, pneumatic and cordless tools so not only no dog in the fight but I want to own ALL the dogs. This includes manual slugging wrenches which are glorious, and epicyclic manual torque multipliers which every mechanic should own (X-4 are worth everything they cost and then some but others like them are available). Easy to see why the heavy equipment guys use those.
I bought this corded Bauer when I was having trouble taking an axel nut off. I had a long breaker bar with a cheater bar and it wouldn't budge. This impact pulled it off in 3 seconds. I consider it to be an air impact replacement since I don't have a large air compressor.
Breaking axle nuts is easy push the breaker bar down with one foot no cheater needed. If you weigh around 230lb and using a standard 15" in 1/2 you are creating almost 288 ft lb of torque 230 x 15" or 1.25. No axle nut is torqued beyond that figure unless its commercial duty vehicle or a Semi rig.
@@wmc128 well, it was on an 85 MR2 where everything was rusted. I was bouncing on the end of it and the only thing spinning was the tire on floor. Parking brake was on and my friend was standing on the brakes.
I bought a used Milwaukee 9070-20 corded a few years ago to drive lag bolts. $100 for all day work is a great deal. Since I discovered this channel I've been curious how it compares to the cordless ft/lbs numbers. I'm guessing it'll be around 400 ft/lbs on a 15sec test. It's never had an issue breaking a nut on my trucks.
Thanks for doing these tests. It's an awesome resource to cut through the marketing numbers.
Let's hook this up to some 220, 221 what ever it takes to reach 1050.
ive got some 13,800v terminations and a spare 50a bucket, bet we can get it with that =D
Send one to Photonicinduction. 😂
@@MikeGalusha that's the best idea yet
If the impact doesn't get the nut off, the electrical short / fire will torch it off
we run 240v in the UK. its like fire waiting to happen
Ad a home mechanic who doesn't have the greatest amount of money I honestly love your videos. You guys help me find good tools. Honestly do a lot more on corded tools please.
This is a great tool. When your breaker bar won't work, and you don't have enough money or time to buy $300 battery impact wrench or air one with compressor, I highly recommend getting this. Hub bolt on my civic was stuck and couldn't take it off by 4 ft breaker bar with 220lb me jumping on it. I spent about 3 hrs. But this electric impact removed the bolt in just 2 seconds.
I have the Bauer corded model and it hasn't failed yet. It spun a Honda harmonic balancer bolt out immediately. Never would have thought it did over 400 lbs-ft like that.
Is that Corded Impact Brushless? Not yet but it will be soon....
Hahahaha
I've used one in some pretty heavy-duty situations and I will say that the last time I used it I smelled some burning. This was after failing to break loose an incredibly rusted camper stabilizer jack, so I think I got some of those fireworks without noticing it. In the impact's defense I couldn't get the bolt loose with a 24" breaker bar and good deadlift form, I'm pretty sure that thing is going to take the torch to come loose.
I was expecting it to be higher than the cordless since it can pull more power but I guess the motor does the same thing whether it's coming from a battery pack or a wall socket.
Hitachi has brushless corded impacts, they're crazy expensive...
@@eargesplitten9876 Often batteries can put out more power momentarily than wall outlets. Strange but true.
@@mihkus 338 dollars on amazon idk what brick and morter store has it
Often you can get this on sale for $70. That's a shitload of power for $70.
It is bulky AF but yeah hard to beat for that dollar amount
And you get an arm workout...
I got my like 1200 nut busting Milwaukee on clearance for $55 but I didn't have any Milwaukee tools yet but that's how I got into the Milwaukee line
Bought a porter cable half inch for 60 and change on Amazon. Its been a tank!
@@james10739 O_O SHEEE, good deals lol. Even at the kit price, these are not bad prices when compared to well...the most expensive...Snap on. Milwaukee on a lot of stuff seems to be above the consumer grade and at the more industrial/pro grade but still OK prices. Not HF cheap but also not HF ''quality'' Whatever gets the job done really. That being said, paying like 700 bucks for a BARE TOOL from snap on seems just nuts.
Bought that corded impact a couple years ago. Still works perfect. I love my M12 3/8 impact, and paired with the corded impact no nuts can't be busted.
Isn’t it fun busting nuts
I bought one of these corded Bauer ones back in 2020 to change the wheel bearing on my 05 Explorer. I paid something like 80 dollars for it plus 30 for HF sockets, and had absolutely no problem getting any nut or bolt out. You should have seen the cloud of rust that flew off when I got that axle nut finally off!
I have an old corded DeWalt impact gun that couldn’t remove much(beyond useless). It was just collecting dust after I invested in real powerful impact wrenches. And I hand an old lawn mower that would give me trouble when it hadn’t ran in a long time. So I welded the hammer and anvil together and made it non-impacting to help me start the mower(worked amazing). But now I run a 40v DeWalt mower.
It still has plenty of power for running mixing bits for mortar and cement.
Once again, it basically collecting dust.
These corded tools usually don't come with any power inverter box as you stated.
These have universal motors in them which as their name suggests can run on both AC and DC. The big size is because these are not as power dense as a brushless dc motor or even brushed one with permanent magnets. So to get same torque out, these are made larger.
These are also not very much efficient (30%~70%) as compared to DC motors (70%~90%). That's why in cordless tools these are not used due to limited energy in a battery.
But video's are great, keep up the good work😊
I thought it was bc of the planetary gears in it.. 🤷
After failing to remove a 30mm nut from the rear suspension of my truck with a breaker bar, a pipe, and all my might. I finally gave in and got that same Bauer impact wrench and man, it took it off like it was a little baby nut. "Who's the boss now 30mm nut!?" I recall shouting, it was very satisfying. I did use a high guague extension cord from my generator to make sure it got the juice it needed. I highly recommend 👍
i just picked one up today for a crank pulley nut, before i bought it i soaked it in wd40 overnight hit w/M18 impact wrench first, then cranked on it by hand...said F it and picked up this Bauer and the nut came off in no time.
Corded versions are handy to have around, no $$$ batteries to keep charged, no compressor or other air equipment and for most tire rotations and things like changing mower blades or putting garden benches together they do the job. Especially when you only use the thing 2-3 times a year as a homeowner. I'm actually surprised at the IR rating, that was built during the times when companies were claiming electric motors were at least twice as powerful as they really were by using a locked rotor amp draw as the maximum power numbers. So you had air compressors rated at 5 hp that really were 3 hp or 2 hp water pumps that were 3/4 hp in reality. It is the reason why now they use the "running hp" numbers on compressors and pumps, also the reason why you see small engines with only the displacement on them instead of 4HP or 16 HP like they used to have on them.
The biggest selling point for corded power tools is the low up front costs, the tool itself. Every home diy already has a heavy gauge electric extention cord for other tools (angle grinders, shop vaca, etc) and uses. You don't need an elaborate air source or a proprietary battery. It's more portable than a air tool, as long as you have an outlet. The biggest issue, like you stated, is the larger form factor. I believe the Bauer has been on sale for $60.
Not much difference in an extension cord and wall wiring.
Also a suggestion. You could add a cheep meter to the plug like a kilowatt to measure the draw.
I’m glad I don’t have your house’s wiring. Electrical cords are stranded, and thus have a lot smaller load rating compared to the same gauge solid romex and other solid in-wall rated wiring. But the performance of this impact was not drastically reduced, but let that cord get warm, maybe still have 25feet still coiled up on the ground, I’d bet that results would be even more of a loss, maybe not much, probably a total of 10-15% loss but still, you can see the difference in the resistance (and eddy currents when coiled) in extension cord.
Comparing same rated wire and length. I did not think i had to state that but i guess this is still the internet
@@donpayton737 imagine having someone explain to you why you're wrong, and you don't have the brain capacity to understand it🤣
@@donpayton737 comparing 12 Guage stranded wire to 12 Guage solid wire are the closest you'll get to "same rating", and the dude literally examined why with an example. You're just to dumb to understand it, clearly.
12 gauge stranded and 12 gauge solid would not be the same rating because stranded and solid are not equal they do not have the same load capacity at equal length. Equally rated wire you would have a larger diameter or lower numbered gauge of a stranded wire to equal a solid wire. So I don't know how is it when that happens
I found these type of corded impact guns used a lot more in construction then in automotive applications. At least typically in what I’ve seen. I have encountered them in the past with folks building decks, foundations, timber frame buildings, etc… where you have to drive a lot of large lag screws. It doesn’t really create a problem that they free spin, because if you’re driving a half or three-quarter inch lag screw it will stop the momentum as soon you let off the trigger. You don’t see them as much now because cordless tools have gotten all the love. But when you can pick this one up for under $100 it’s still not a bad option.
I was just getting into power tools about 3yrs ago when I bought the corded Bauer, hoping to make a complete front end suspension rebuild more fun. Enough power for all the fastener it encountered, but I couldn't access most of them with this behemoth, especially after strapping on a full length 1/2 impact socket.
3yr late... I'm on the big 3 (Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita) battery platform plus others, and this youtube channel has quickly become one of my favorites. Keep up the great work guys (and gals if applicable)!
I use my big Bauer as a backup for very stubborn nuts & bolts. Aside from that I have a stubby M12 3/8 Milwaukee for everyday use. I'm also tempted to buy the 1/4" compact Hercules that HF sells. It looks like it would be good for doing delicate bolts as its' torque rating is low. :)
Extremely under rated channel. I appreciate what you do.
Mostly mechanics here. Other than serious DIY guys I can't imagine who else feels the need to get this kind of info.
@@BigMac2222 farmers, tool junkies, hoarders, random old lady that doesn't know what she's doing on RUclips, everybody's Grandpa, everyone's dad, etc...
The Earthquake with 120psi line pressure took off a highly rusted trailer hitch bolt from the frame of a plow truck that our Japan Crafstman and Ryobi P262 couldn’t 🤷♂️ for the $100 I spent on sale, I’m pretty happy so far!
This channel really helps uncover the mysteries of impact drivers. I do find myself looking at reviews of this and other wrenches in this class on various sales sites, and you find many users who say a particular wrench removes anything they throw at it, and then you see reviews where people say the wrench sucks, no power, wouldn't remove anything, etc etc. I always wonder what the true story is for those types of bad reviews, and wonder if I'll run into the same problem. Not sure if you have any input on this comment. Thanks if you do!
I first bought my corded impact from HF because a mechanic had installed a wheel nut hard enough for me to bend tools trying to remove it. Mine is bulky, but for when I need it, it bangs wheel nuts off quick, fast and in a hurry to boorow an AvE'ism... Mine is the old, gabbich style but on the plus side - it came with replacement brushes.
I have one of the big Bauer's like in the video and over torqued lug nuts on my old Silverado were my reason for buying it as well. The massive size doesn't bother me. It's more of a "Just in case" tool for further possible happenings with over torqued fasteners. My main impact wrench is a 3/8 Milwaukee stubby M12. :)
We used an old corded Milwaukee (in the heavy duty orange) rated for 300ft-lb to drive tapcon bolts for pallet and extrusion racks, our shop air impact wouldn't drive them bc of air pressure (shop runs at 90-110 for die grinders, and we were using about 100ft of hose) so someone brought in that old corded Milwaukee and on about the same amount of extention cord it drove them like deck screws. With this being on the cheap end, I could see this being an attractive option for doing a project like that. Or maybe you already run a generator on your jobsite but not a compressor. They also have the cheaper Chicago electric, being about $45, or $35 for ITC. And I'm sure you could find even cheaper on amazon if you're not concerned with warranties.
I like this channel so much that I’m watching the entire line up for a second time. Dudes voice soothes me to sleep at night lol.
YOU GUYS JUST KEEP GETTING BETTER,,, THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR TIME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@ 3:43 I believe you are referring to a rectifier which converts ac to dc, an inverter converts dc to ac; don’t mean to play semantics just want to inform :)
Hey thanks!
@John G far as I know ac motors do not use commutators, they are akin to brushless dc motors in that they use a rotor and stator. So perhaps it is simply an ac motor in there?
If it is brushed then the commutator will be rather large as it acts as a mechanical rectifier.
Then wtf is a converter. And why don't we call transgender folks transformers?
I have a corded atomic era all-aluminum body impact that I use on my car. Works great. About to put it back into service when I rebuild my suspension next week.
My version of "letting off early" is pulling the tool and socket straight off the nuts while spinning. Then finish with torque wrench. It just removed a flywheel bolt listed at 145ft/lb spec without even blinking.
So darkmode or non dark mode graphs, what's the word?
Dark mode for sure.
Dark
Dark
Dark!
embrace da powa of da daark syde!
The old IR, when you have to twist the back of the motor, you have to be careful about turning it too far, or not far enough... They are a bit finicky that way.
Excellent video! Very informative. I purchased the Bauer corded impact wrench for some front end work on my car. This thing ripped every nut and bolt that was rusted and seized. I also used it to press out and install the lower ball joints which are notoriously a problem on chrysler 300. Very impressed with the performance. If I had to give a complaint, it would be that this thing is huge and heavy! Thanks for this video.
What year 300? I had a '67... I made a press from angle iron and two brake drums, used a hydraulic bottle jack to press the joints out (out of the car obviously). I am happy with my Bauer impact, it does stink of Chinesium when you use it.
@@scowell 2006 300. I love to hear about the old school methods. Not much American ingenuity anymore. The smell of chinesium is a bit much, but it goes away. Tool is still a beast!
THIS was a fantastic video. Don’t get me wrong... all your videos are fantastic. This one... extra fantastic. 😂 I love seeing scientific testing being done... when comedy, love moving graphs, and tools are included... it just makes a perfect setup for entertaining me. I sincerely appreciate everything you guys have some with this channel. Can’t thank you enough 🙏
Just bought a T. Thanks guys for a great channel. Have been enjoying all of them.
Awesome! Thank you!
Best video I’ve seen on harbor freight impacts… from the graphs to the set up. Subbed!
Hi, I just picked up the earthquake xt, it’s a beast, it pulls off rusted bolts with ease and any suspension parts like nothing, very powerful tool, excellent quality video ty so much, regards, Bob,
Thank you, for those weekend warriors where this may be a good option for a "Once in a while" use especially on CV nuts and lugs that my impact driver can't do.
My friend and I each have one of these big Bauer's. He bought his because I let him use mine. I feel this thing is for the instance of needing to pull out the big guns when the bolts/nuts are suborn. For normal everyday use I have a Milwaukee 3/8 M12 stubby impact. :)
That's why I ended up getting mine, I was working on some very stuck bolts on my car and couldn't afford a big enough compressor and powerful air tool, so I figured this thing would give me all day power without worrying about batteries.
Now I want to get one of the Thors but I'm pretty sure my 6 gallon air compressor would last like 5 seconds before dropping to useless pressure.
@@eargesplitten9876 That's why I never bothered with air powered impacts. The big air hungry ones like the Thor require a good 60 gallon air compressor to get decent run time if you're doing a lot of bolt removal. A good affordable 60 gallon compressor is between $650 - $750, requires its own 230 volt hardline into the house and needs to be plumed with air lines and fittings.
You could probably buy the big battery powered Milwaukee, a couple batteries and charger for cheaper than the air compressor alone. Plus you don't have to put oil in it with every use like air powered ones.
That's been my dilemma with trying to get back into autobody painting. In order to get any decent run time with a good spray gun I need a decent sized compressor and good ones are expensive. Which I can't afford it at the moment. Plus I have no place to store it. So all of the rechargeable variants of air tools have been the best choices for me as I already have the batteries. :)
I've used it on axle nuts aka cv nuts without any issues. Also used it to press a bearing with a forcing screw style press. Both are about as tight as bolts/fasteners get on cars. Only tighter bolt on my suv was my control arm bracket and it had no problem there either.
A heavier gauge extension cord will reduce the power loss in the cored impact. You are using a small gauge cord which will cause a voltage drop. It would be good to see a comparison between a 25' or 50' cord comparing 16, 14, and 12ga cords. The higher the amperage of the tool, the higher the voltage drop will be.
I've had an Ingersoll Rand corded impact for 35 years. It's great for tires, but it is too long and unweildy for a lot of mechanic work on a vehicle. And it shoots sparks off the brushes. I used it to break the mounts on a Volvo undercar inline fuel filter. I had released the pressure, but put the fuel cap back on, took a break because it was 110 in my driveway. The heat re-pressurized the line, so that lot of gas sprayed all over me and the cement when the line broke loose. I can still see the sparks flying out of the tool, and remember the sheer terror I felt. I have never gotten out from under a car that fast. Luckily, I let off just in time and didnt ignite myself. I've never used that impact since because the housing broke when I tossed it. And I never worked on that cursed Volvo again, even though the owner was hot as hell. Especially in her mini skirt standing over me on the creeper. But that's another story.
Other household uses would be removing the nut holding wash tub in a top load washer and the anode rod in a water heater. It does not occur often but this tool would deliver.
I bought the corded Bauer impact wrench this weekend for $60 with a coupon. Also got a decent socket set for $20 with a coupon. I don't use an impact wrench enough to warrant buying one with a battery. All I need one for is to break seized on nuts for lawn mower blades.
That is a good video. I bought the porter cable 7.5 amp corded 1/2 inch impact to do some work on my car and truck. The porter cable impressed me with what it can do. It took off CV axle nuts with no problem, it took off the pinion nut on my truck along with doing some suspension work. Would like to know what you think of the porter cable 7.5 amp corded impact.
EEEHHH... I mean if you use a 25 foot 10 gauge extension that's gonna be a lot different than a 50 foot 16 gauge... but I see your point. I do own a few like "12 amp" extension cords.. probably should be illegal but totally fine for running a 1 amp fan or something. I also have a few 10 gauge 50 foot made in usa extension cords for running my 10amp air compressor or anything else that'll draw some juice... terrible idea to skimp out on extension cords! Gotta have at least one good one...
Thanks for doing this one, was wondering how they compared. When working in my garage a cord isn't that big a deal and if I can save some money that's great
My bauer corded took off a seized ram 3/4 ton axle nut like it was nothing. And that was with a 3/4 inch drive adapter. Its definitely worth the $80.
That HF is on sale right now. For those that need that much trq a couple times a year it has its place given the price point and performance. Its about 1/3-1/4 the price of similar in performance, popular brands, cordless impacts "tool only". And the HF ratings have it at 96% recommend it.
My general experience with cordless power tools…expect the bare minimum. Corded tools are always the best.
Unless you’re a journeyman mechanic, get the corded option. Youll save a lot of sweat and beers.
I remember having a corded drill back in the day that didn't have a reverse. We are spoiled by modern equipment.
In fact, my house was built in 1964 by hand. Every board was hand cut and either nailed in or screwed in by hand with flathead wood screws. That would be torture.
I have the Menards Performax corded impact. It was $80 on sale. An absolute beast that pulls off lugs my $400 Snap-On pnuematic cant budge. Pretty sure that Bauer is the exact same model just under a different name. Menards came with a nice carrying case too.
I have an old THOR corded impact. It's all aluminum, and has that ray gun look of the 50s and 60s. Best $10 I spent at a garage sale. It's weak compared to newer stuff, but it worked when I had nothing better.
I've got a corded Dewalt ½" from around "96. $200 at that time I think. Bought it for when I was lagging log homes together. I'm not a fan of Dewalt but It's the strongest impact I've ever had and I still use it occasionally.
I bought the Dewalt version of that corded impact back in the day before I had any kind of shop setup. I had no air compressor and I needed to to take the crank bolt off of my engine to do a front seal and oil pan gasket. I could not have gotten it off otherwise. It's a cheap option considering no need for batteries and you don't need an $800 compressor to make it chooch. It was a barely adequate solution though. Just like this one it kept hitting due to flywheel effect even after you let off the trigger and I doubt it would have touched these torque numbers in your tests because the eventual air impact I replaced it with slaughtered its performance. This once again makes me wonder how that old Earthquake impact with the red painted aluminum body would fare against these newer composite ones with the huge torque claims.
i got this for lugnuts on my car and it works like a champ. i recommend the corded tool if you don't use it all the time. can't beat the price and no dead batteries.
Upgraded from an older 18v kit. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv I independently chose the drill and impact tool, before I came across the kit.I like the 3 speed impact gun. It seems more powerful than my older one, and it can be set to be really gentle. The drill is more appropriately sized for my use. I used to have a hammer drill, but I did not like that it was so big and it was not a great hammer drill. I rather have a smaller drill like this, and then get a corded hammer drill for the odd case I need that.
Your corded impact does not convert AC power to dc.
It uses a universal brushed motor that will run on AC or DC. Almost all corded drills, grinders, skill saws ect use this type of motor.
Try hooking it up to a 12v battery or 2 in series for 24v, it will work.
Many older welders output dc from the 120v plugs just to run grinders and other tools (lincoln sa200)
Just got my Astro Thor air hammer(Bigger Nasty) today. Hopefully you guys did too and we can see it SMAsh the competition very soon.
I got mine today too! Can’t wait to test it out tomorrow, show the boss that his old Chicago Pneumatic 717 is no longer meanest air hammer in town.
The air tool coming out early is because of the pressure built up in the line. You'll find that a larger diameter hose and a freer flowing adapter will likely increase the power after the initial burst.
When I saw the fire in the air vents during the intro I had to keep watching lol.
Yeah a big drawback of these corded impacts and some cordless brushed impacts is that they're so bulky that they can't really fit anywhere useful. I think the impact wrench market would be a lot different if corded tools could be made more compact as most everyone who has a garage also has electricity, but not everyone has access to compressed air.
When I reach for an impact space generally isn't much of an issue - I'm sure it sometimes is but the real tough suspension/subframe bolts that these are most useful for... you can often get away with a bulky impact.
Especially since the alternative solution is often a big long pipe that you don't have much room to move in the average garage. Cordless tools are great and definitely more compact but more expensive.
I have the older Chicago Electric version. I've used it occasionally for about 15 years and for the $40 I paid it was a good buy. I have air and just recently bought a battery impact now so it's unlikely to see much if any use now. For a budget option it's great, especially if you don't have air.
i got my bauer for $70 and it works great still, pulls honda crank bolts off all day
I had an early 2000s central pneumatics hf plug in impact, a huge beast that could barely break a lugnut. Recently threw it away after 20 years taking tool box room
Wow. Honestly it's impressive. I'm fortunate to have a fully equipped shop but I too have thought about purchasing this for my GFs house a long time ago due to a lack of air compressor. But it's nice to see you CAN get air power out of a straight electric gun like that! Very cool test!
i have one of these and have used it on the suspension in my chevy impala. This think zipped axle nuts right off and everything else i've asked of it. Fantastic deal at 90 bucks and even better on sale.
3:39 I would guess that the motor takes up the full length of the plastic part. You can see the sparks flying around in the back and the fan blades right before the hammer. Also universal motors have no problem running on AC.
My wrist hurts just thinking about having to use to a corded impact on a job if it was your only tool.
You would have starved to death in the 1950's.
Watched this review and decided to get one. 49.99 parking lot sale today ends tomorrow! Havent used it but been wanting a stronger impact then my little dewalt extreme 1/2". Wanted a 891, but for 50 bucks, this will do
Can we use this corded from ac to dc converted from the car 12v outlet ??
Could you please reply
Found this after making a comment asking for it elsewhere. It'd be interesting to see HF upgrade this corded impact with brushless motors and smaller length. Metabo makes a brushless corded impact WR16SEM.
this was the first impact I ever had! I've moved on to a ryobi PBLIW01B high torque, but I always keep the bauer around just in case I dont have charged batteries at the moment. only complaint is that it smells pretty bad when running it for any amount of time, although there seems to be no effect on longevity or performance
Ahh!! 😱 that dry fire brings back memories of safety measures. A dude once dry fired an impact with a socket on it, slinging it at himself like David did Goliath. Not that it matters, just brought back some memories that’s all LoL but awesome review!! Keep it up! 👍
I have come to really enjoy your channel. I subbed and liked many of your videos. So many reviews or "tests" of products are terribly subjective. It's comments like "lets see if this will break these really tight lug nuts" that tell me nothing! For example, I own a 1999 F250 super duty 7.3, and I have an $80 Amazon battery powered impact wrench that broke the lugs loose, and they "felt" really tight, but that doesn't really say anything about that driver, because who really knows how tight they were. I really enjoy two things about your channel. One, that most of your tests are minimally subjective and two, you are attempting to be as non bias as possible by not selling out to companies giving you "free" products. There is nothing worse than watching my favorite youtuber pin a product for 3 minutes right before jumping to an add when he/she is done. Thank you!
Thank you, we really appreciate it
Last December I was moving, my air compressor was already at the new place, 8 hours away, and I needed an impact wrench. I decided to try the Chicago electric corded impact, and I was not impressed. It wouldn't break loose my axle shift bolts, torqued to 90 ft lbs. My dewalt 20v 1/4" impact driver took them off fine. Now of course I wasn't expecting much but it was garbage. Decided to just get a Kobalt 24v cordless one
Odd, I use that one to remove axle nuts on my VW. They are torqued over 200 ft lbs.
Why does it say 300 ft lb in the specs at 0:59 but 1050 on box
Working measurable torque is always quite different to nut busting
i love my corded baurer. its an absolute unit. only complaint is the sound. its so loud. its a nut buster for sure tho
Can u imagine having that IR back in the 70s! You'd be tbe coolest guy on the block!
I got a HyperTough 7.5amp electric corded impact for $40 new a while ago. Used it last year to remove crank pulley. It wasn't even 5 seconds and it was out. Thing's a heavy beast. Would love to see it on the dyno
Love seeing the Kitts tools screen shot. Great family owned store.
I have a cheap corded impact that I bought because, it was cheap. And it works great! In the areas it fits in. It's loosened everything I've tried it against. But there were many times this big behemoth just wouldn't fit. Might be time for a cordless compact.
I just sold my Milwaukee corded 1/2 “ impact. It put in thousands of ledger bolts for decks in its lifetime. But ever since 1/2” lag and carriage bolts have been replaced with smaller more efficient bolts I can put in with my Makita td170 impact or the larger 40v drill it hasn’t come out to play. The new style bolts for deck ledgers explicitly state in the directions to be put in with a drill not an impact
The Bauer corded impact owner’s manual page 7 shows the maximum torque rating at 300 ft. lb. So it’s kinda impressive that it reaches 610 ft. lb. I was on a budget and ended up buying the porter cable because it made more torque for around the same price. Are you going to add the corded ones to the spreadsheet? They will score high in terms of value.
If you are going to test with an extension cord, you would be wise to indicate the gauge of the wire. The orange cords are usually 16 gauge. The 20 amp circuit to the new wall outlet is 12 gauge. A 15 amp circuit is wired with 14 gauge. Using a 14 gauge or 12 gauge extension cord reduces voltage drop compared to that orange 16 gauge cord.
@@wim0104 Correct, My TBI brain farted. I'll fix it. That is a 20 amp outlet. I've wired plenty of 20 amp outlets with the stiff 12 gauge wire when I wire my shop.
@3:45 If I had to guess, it probably uses a brushed universal motor like a blender or vacuum.
9:37 That' is a HF zen fireplace. The more you use it the more fire it produces!! It's a feature !!
I just bought the ridgid high torque and love it. Hopefully you can get one to test one of these days.
How about a test running this off a power inverter from a 12v dc power source to replicate a situation on the side of the road changing a tire using one of these.
Have you not tested the even cheaper Chicago Electric corded impact?
Nice test! It would be great to see the corded 1/2 inch Makita impact up next!
I sucked it up and bought some long 12awg better-quality extension cords. It was definitely a worthwhile purchase.
Why would the Harbor Freight brushed corded need a power converter? Those brushed motors are called universal motors for a reason: they're usually able to work on AC or DC. My corded drills look like cordless ones with less electronics and a bigger motor.
I wonder if the cordless get more because of current rating: lithium ion batteries can dump a ton of current, maybe more than the wall?
Running off of an extension cord is fine as long as you choose the right size extension cord
Always enjoy your channels ability to add some truth to the advertisement claims.
Bauer 59.00 black Friday this year!
So an oddball suggestion. Have you ever used a torque wrench, or torque meter to see how much actual twisting force it takes to equal the compression force you are getting on your meter? I ask because because someone unfamiliar with these tools naturally thinks that is what the marketing is suggesting.
That’s a great idea. Use a torque wrench set at various levels as your calibrated standard for force, and then compare that against what the gauges are telling you. Who knows how far they might … or might not … be off.
@@shubinternet The issue (as I understand it) isn't that their measurement is off, it is that what they are measuring isn't the twisting force applied. They are measuring a clamping force. I believe that is similar to what some manufacturers do also to generate their claims (if they don't just make it up) so it is a reasonable comparison, but not what I think of when I think of force applied to a nut or bolt.
For 70-80 bucks it's more than enough for the average person maintaining their vehicles in the garage. It's big and bulky and heavy but it gets the job done. Haven't found anything it has had an issue with yet!