The CCD compact digi cams have been all the craze in Asia. Lots of Japanese and Chinese youths have been buying those cameras to relive childhood nostalgia!
I wanted to get back into film photography but seeing how expensive film is now. I'm gonna dust my old Pentax optio S and H90, need to find the chargers tho.
Oh my goodness. Thank you for the shout out! Absolutely love this video and all the fantastic tips. I’ve really been enjoying the stacking approach as well and have been playing with my 5D classic and adapted OM lenses from the 70s. Such a great look and fun experience. Your XZ-1 shots continue to blow me away btw. Thanks again and keep this great content coming!
Any time! That's great, I've always heard good things about that camera. I think my 6D shares the sensor from the 5D II, so it looks a bit more "modern". Looking forward to that DP2 video btw! I just saw that you drew it for the next camera... what a weird looking thing haha
Let me tell you, I have a 2007 Canon Powershot G9. With the correct conditions and lighting it absolutely kills it. (Especially with the flash on) The photos turn out so good. Honestly some of the shots look so similar to film it’s hard to tell the difference. Very underrated camera for sure.
I once owned a Nikon D40 and loved the images it took. The CCD sensor makes a big difference in how a camera renders a scene. Today, I mainly shoot Fuji XE-2S. The XTrans II sensor is pure magic when it comes to achieving a film look.
I recently started looking into digital photography since my dad gifted me his Panasonic DMC FZ50 and the tips in this video helped me a lot, much appreciated ; )
Excellent. I’m not into film due time, location and cost (full time work, limited photography time, small town no developers here, and film development is getting expensive) so film look in an old digital CCD camera it is. I have the Olympus XZ-2 and Stylus 1. Both produce great photos and camera limitations make photography fun.
I work with a variety of CCD cameras and record in RAW+JPEG … this is important for editing the RAW file to achieve the luminosity of the scene as remembered, and then combine with the JPEG file to achieve the colour as was - accurately - recorded at the time. This can be easily extended to multi exposure HDR work to overcome the dynamic range limitations of the CCD. Another thing to keep in mind is that in the early 2000’s camera manufacturers had to make a determined effort to woo their professional and semiprofessional film loyalists over to digital. They did this by hiring the very best film colour specialists around at the time before they went into retirement to help create the colour filter arrays (CFA) needed to give a film look and a recognisable house style. The sensor light gathering technology, whether it be CCD or CMOS or X-Trans etc, has very little to do with the final colour as they are by nature monochrome panchromatic. It is the CFA combined with a camera’s colour to JPEG output processing engine that defines an individual camera’s actual colour fidelity. Unfortunately, those days are gone, and to my mind it is only really Fuji left who really make a concerted effort to make outstandingly good colour cameras capable of being dialled in properly.
Early full frame DSLR cameras like Canon 5D Mk1 and the Nikon D700 renders film like images especially the colors. I been burned out by the rising cost of film and finally broke down and bought an old D700. I can't believe a Nikon FM2 cost more that the D700 today.
A good way to get the film look on a Fuji camera is to use the TTArtisan lenses. along with some weak grain added. The lenses are inexpensive and work great and give the most film look i've seen on a digital camera.
Or just buy older lenses, since filmic look is a non-sterile look in that its flawed in one way or another, there no film that is not flawed apart from really high end medium format film used for product shoots or landscape. As technology get better and better, so does the elimination of any flaws produced by it, kind of funny how people try to get back to it.
Once more proof that film is vastly inferior to digital because to get the so called `look` you have to resort to rock bottom quality lenses, like the one mentioned. Or adding grain your self, maybe even shoot iso 12800 to get that film look. Ridiculous.
For a 4 month bike trip I took a a6000 paired with a vintage pentax super takumar 50mm lens and was blown away by the images straight out the camera. Lovely lens
OK Dude I've been buzzing around this topic for awhile now, probably for the last year or so...and this is hands down the absolute BEST, and I repeat BEST! video on the subject. Unparalleled-and you singularly have set the gold standard on the subject. There is such a wealth of information and a veritable trove of treasures embedded. My jaw literally dropped with your DP review search hack. I'm like: "are you f*kn serious...this guy is unbelievable!" No one need look anywhere else for information on the topic. Well done!
amazing video, man! with films rising prices, I've considered using film for projects only and not as casually as I've been for the past few years. I recently picked up a digicam (canon proshot) and I've been having a blast. Really opened up creativity for me! I appreciate the nod! Stay safe!
Thank you! Yeah nice, its a great way to expand creativity like you said, whether it's because of the limitation offered, or just because it's something "new"/different :-) Sorry for taking a while to reply
I just stumbled on this. Those are great tips. I shot film for about 30 years moving from Nikon-F to Leica-M and do miss it, but ain't going back...just like I won't go back to vinyl records 🙂. I agree with everything you put here, however, personally I find that the CMOS sensor looks more natural as a starting point than the CCD (CCD looks like a vintage TV Soap Opera to me). Also, vintage lenses are a big factor, like you mentioned. In addition to what you have here, here are some other things to consider for the film or vintage look: (1) I always have sharpness turned off - let the lens be what it is; (2) using curves to soften the transition from dark to light to reduce the dynamic range - I find that film clips a little softer than digital does and this approach mimics that; (3) I will use ISO 100-400 just like I had with film - many of my best film shots include some motion due to the ISO constraints. Also, I often had to shoot wide open because I had no choice in low light...that also created some nice surprises; (4) I find that manual mode, manual focus, and assigning dials and buttons appropriately also helps to slow things down and put me in tune with the camera settings - maybe I used to generally take better pictures with film, because I would take more time, to save money; (5) I have AWB white balance always turned off as AWB will often result in noise in one of the channels; (6) I will sometimes use real colored glass filters to correct white balance or for black and white as, again, it will reduce noise in one of the RGB channels for the final result; (7) I like to turn on the grid as I used to have those on my film cameras and it makes me take the time; (8) use a saved profile in the camera to put it into the film mimic mode when required; (9) my software of choice for film look presets is Exposure X7 and I am currently using a Sony A6500 as my only camera (plust iPhone).
Man that sounds like hard work. Don't forget you're speaking to a generation raised on smartphones and instant gratification. If only there was a dial on the camera that could recreate Kodachrome 64 or Fuji Velvia. 😉
Another small ish tip is i then print the photograph off then use digital to photograph the print, can bring a very strong film look esp in black and white i have found in my lmited experience
A big part of the reason CCDs had that look is because they are an analogue sensor that's converted to digital. Most simply, the photo cells are made of organic materials that react to light and then the light values are translated digitally by components behind that layer. (This incidentally means they have an unavoidably limited lifespan and older ones will start to change how they render an image.)
Very fascinating. I wonder if the changing image quality “degrades” or simply just changes. Just recently into the CCD rabbit hole. Kinda cool that early 2000s cameras are now considered classic or desirable again!
Didn't know that, I try to avoid ccds these days as they need more light but this video reminded me of some classic cameras that I'll keep an eye out for
Both CCD and CMOS sensors start out as analog signals. The difference is that CMOS uses an active charge, giving better low light performance, and has an amplifier at each photo site giving faster readouts. Both add the colour information using computed digital interpolation via a colour filter such as a Bayer filter. The reason CCDs are reputed to have a more filmic look was the colour science at the time tends to use film colours as the benchmarks. Fuji cameras with Xtrans CMOS sensors can do a reasonable recreation of Kodachrome and Astia for example, which are quite different looking film stocks, precisely because of the digital colour science. My old 5D with a CMOS had a look somewhat between Kodacolour and Fujicolour due to the colour science and same with my 350D from the same era. In contrast my 400D, which again was CMOS, looked completely different due to Canon changing its colour science. Indeed many CCD digicams only shoot JPEG, which just reinforces the point that the look has been determined by the colour science of the era.
Yea this is bullshit, CCD and CMOS sensors both convert analog signals to digital in extremely similar way, the only practical difference is that old CCD sensors were benchmarked with film colors. At least research your stuff before writing an half-assed poetic comment.
An amazing old dslr camera to add to the list should be the Fujifilm Finepix S5 Pro with Nikon F mount. The BW rendering is incredible, looks like the old Kodak Panatomic X.
I want to grow by exploring, appreciating and treasuring all the moments of my life. I badly want to have an digital camera or recorder but as of now, my parents won't allow me because its too expensive, and hoping that I can enhace my skills in photography and filming .
Also the earlier M42 takumar glass has some kind of coating that has an universally aged orange. I got very similar kodak gold colors with a 5DC and vintage tak glass straight off the bat.
Interesting video! Great topic. I'm also quite interested in how to simulate the analog film look in digital photography. I'm shooting with Olympus XZ-2 (bought 2012), therefore I'm happy to see you're using the XZ-1. I like the Art filters by Olympus (monochrome in particular; kind of reminds me of a contrastier Illford HP5).
The greatest camera that literally is like operating a film camera and shoots images that look like film, has to be Sigma Foveon cameras, they are VERY SLOW to work with, and I mean it when I say slow. You gotta expose correctly or you are screwed, JUST LIKE FILM! And the only working ISO range is usually 100 - 400 with the older Foveon, with the newer ones you can go up to 800 ISO thats usable but expert colour artefacts! The upside with Sigma cameras is that they cost reasonable prices despite being quite literally 6000 dollar cameras at launch day they gone down in prices, so has the SA mount lenses, these cameras are also pretty easy to use as in there very little buttons and shit that will confuse you, all the buttons you would find on an old school film camera will be found on a Sigma, the colours these cameras produce are also closest to film since they capture R, G and B on 3 independent sensor arrays sandwiched together, both CCD and CMOS capture colours in a pattern array with R+G+B pixels, some have white pixels and some have more green pixels etc, its different arrays basically like Fujifilm and their X-Trans sensor which is just CMOS but with a different colour array. Honestly, if you love taking pictures but is not a professional about it, buy a smaller camera, you are far more likely to carry it around with you, if you have trouble taking pictures in public like me with a huge freaking camera because it makes you look like a twat lets be honest, then a smaller camera will make you look like a tourist, you rather be a tourist, than a local with a big camera, trust me, and in some countries, getting mugged is a problem and walking around with a huge camera = rich man. Smaller cameras are also a lot more fun to use, specially fixed lens compacts, the crazy zooms they possess is fun to use, they are absolutely atrocious in low light situation, but keep in mind low light photography was pretty much impossible handheld just 20 years ago before digital came along and changed it, small camera does not have to be 1/2.3 inch sensor, or 1 inch, they can even be full frame! Yes full frame compacts exist, usually these cameras have fixed lenses, but MFT and APS-C sensor compacts are around which can give you zooms and a lot of flexibility specially in dynamic range, these small 1/2.3 inch sensors tend to have no wiggle room, what you capture is what you get, you wont have much adjustment in post. Which kind of reminds me of colour slide film.
Great ideas! Loved shooting film, but it gets pricey. I picked up an original GR digital and it’s become my “digital film” camera. It gets high regards for BW, but I also really enjoy the color photos for that classic look.
CCD sensors don't really have less accurate color than a CMOS sensor. Improvements in color accuracy over time which was concurrent with the rise of CMOS has more to do with improvements in the color filter array (CFA) on the sensor. Color dyes used to be more prominent in the CFAs but have largely been replaced with pigments (side note: pigments are fine particle based coloration, often inorganic material and not water soluble. dyes are typically water soluble organic compounds). Pigment based CFAs tend to have better resistance to light, which allows them to retain better spectral purity in brightly lit conditions, which allows better color accuracy in bright conditions. Older dye based CFAs sometimes have more cross-talk between color channels. Also, some really old digital cameras (pre-2003) didn't have the best IR-UV blocking ''hot mirrors" affixed on top of the CFA which could result in decreased color accuracy in IR-rich light sources and increased UV sensitivity under strong daylight on high-UV index days. Since this development happened in parallel with CMOS becoming more common, it gives a false impression of CMOS having superior color accuracy. CMOS does have better dynamic range though, most often! But I think (am not sure) many cameras still are made with CCDs, since CCD technology has improved over time. SPAD technology invented by Canon is a potential successor to CMOS with even better dynamic range and improved noise profile (SPAD works better in low light compared to CMOS). In any case, CMOS typically uses a rolling shutter which can result in strange motion artifacts. CCD sensors captured all at once, exposing like film does. So that is another reason CCD may seem more film like.
The main issue with CMOS historically was the rolling shutter. That has been addressed, I think, with EIS. It was always the more cost-effective option. My phone videos don't look terribly cinematic, but an app that mimics film does, to stunning effect. Soft, high dynamic range, soft vignette around the edges, and even the option of grain. It looks like old Super 8 by default, but has settings for 16mm, Super 16, and 35mm emulation.
i started with digital photography with an olympus e-300 back in 2005, this was such a great camera, so much better colors than the canon 30d back then....when i find one, i shure will buy one....today i got an original sealed canon ixus 90is from 2008, still with ccd sensor, even the accu and sd-card were sealed, never used .....€ 60,-- was a ok price....greets BM 🙂
I have found that lower Mp sensors plays a big part. I still use my D100 (6Mp), D200 (10Mp) CCD sensor bodies and kept my early Fuji cameras, the X-E1 and X-E2S both X-Trans first and second edition 16Mp sensor array. With manual F mount and adapted film lenses for both my Nikon and Fujis. I found that the 10-16 Mp is the sweet spot for getting that "filmic" look with most lens combinations. Around 20 Mps I found to be the threshold of the analog look before it becomes digital and too clean and sharp to where you have to manipulate and use a form of IQ reduction in Post to get the "look" with either presets or lots of slider experimentations.
Just found your channel and subscribed. Useful content, capably presented, without distracting hype. You connect well with viewers. Well done. Love the “layering” tip. Have some old Pentax lenses - will dust them off and adapt to Fuji X cam. Cheers!
Foveon sensors are the best for the film look. I have a Sigma Sd Quattro and the stills are mind blowing. The colors and tones are second only to film. It beats my Fujifilm cameras even with the film recipes
@@dp55822 i use the sigma 17-50mm zoom lens. I like it because you can stop it down to f2.8 throughout the focal length of the lens and its super sharp!
you know, when digital cameras made it to the point where they were better than film (around 8mp was a little better than the 35mm film i used to use) we were happy to make the transition. I find it interesting that people now are looking for a lesser quality result.
The truth is: It's the highlight roll-of and and dynamic range in film photos. So here's what you do: You take any camera that has a DR+/Auto-ETTR function and shoot it native ISO and RAW and bam, put it in lightroom, slap an S-curve on there, play with the colors, done.
Wonderful!!! I have the 5D classic, xpro1, 1D classic(spoilt) and various vintage lenses from Takumar, etc. Digicams like the LX3 are awesome and I will highly recommend the FUJIFILM S3 Pro! I just need to edit more images from it and share. But great thoughts there. I will say CCD sensors kind of look awesome with good light and they eat battery quiet a lot. Also, when thinking of adapters, most cameras adapt easily to canon so I got Nikon to canon adapter, m42- canon, Minolta -canon, Olympus - canon and then I got a viltrox canon to Fujifilm speed booster adapter. Now I have variety of lenses to use anytime. Also i don’t know but it felt like you implied ccd might be inferior a bit in dynamic range and true Colour compared to cmos. I would say it’s subjective. Their rendering is ‘true’ to the light available and that adds to the joy of using it. Also, most had lower megapixel at the time and that meant bigger sensor photo sites which captured light well and noise looked natural (unless heavily pushed then they mess up and some showed banding). Lovely video and I’ve learnt much. Thank you!
I tend to use vintage lenses anyway, with my digital cameras. Namely, because they're cheaper and I like the look they give. But, I also use them on my film cameras as they're usually the ones I also buy for them, as well. I do have modern lenses, but they're also camera specific and for specific purposes (astrophotography, etc).
I have that neon sign in my photo shop ThePhotoStore in Warkworth New Zealand, been there since 99, excellent video and great recommendations, I always liked the Fuji Super CCD which had a looser array, the Olympus picture effects are great fun, canon G12 was a goodie, Sony Rx100ii, that xz2 and ten is on my shelf for sale, I pick and choose the best of all time, I would say it is the super fast aperture’s help for film look and some Olympus and other digitals had built in nd which adds again to the light control, I find u need a shallow depth of field is nicest when using film lens on digital, great idea to hunt out those gems and go for a photo walk, raw would help but not essential, canon eos has great picture styles to really pop your contrast with eg orange filters, great video, love it
@@pushingfilm thanks man, we are pumping, we scan and restore old photos with Neural Filters in Photoshop and im sitting here designing our new in house cnc cut range of photo frames basically Polaroids that look like Instagram posts and filmstrips in 4:3 1:1 and 16:9 landscape and portrait
my favourite way to get the filmic look I want, is to shoot the image with a film recipe / sim on my X-T2, but shooting RAM + JPEG, then matching the RAW file to the JPEG (more or less), it's usually pretty easy. That way I can keep the DR of the RAW file and still keep the look I wanted for the shot, as well as doing a few tweaks along the way. I only do that for pictures that I think are worth it or really need a bit of editing, otherwise SOOC JPEG are generally fine, especially with Fujis Also, about old Nikons, the nice thing is that those cameras have the same lens mount as older film cameras from the 60s, so every lens just goes on there natively. However, Nikon lenses are a bit tricky to work with. See, to get teh best focus, a little lever is keeping the lens wide opened all the time, even if you turn the aperture ring to close it down. It only allows the aperture to close when you press the shutter, and that the lever is pulled down, allowing the blades to move. The way old film cameras talked to the lens back then is with a little rotary encoder on the very ring that you turn, and the more closed the aperture was, the more that encoder turned as well, and allowed the camera to know that the aperture would close when the shutter release happens. Digital cameras like the D40, D50, D60, D70 (D70S), D80 etc don't have that encoder, so shooting with those cameras and vintages lenses is a NIGHTMARE, even more difficult than shooting film : you'll have to guess, based on your settings and the lights conditions you're in, if your exposure settings are good or not. You don't have acces to the light meter (nor semi automatic modes like aperture priority for that matter) since the camera can't know what the exposure settings are. Nikon did eventually put the aperture encoder on their high end bodies, but it didn't make its way into consumer cameras until the D7000 which at this point has a pretty modern CMOS sensor anyway. The recommended camera if you want that CCD look but still want to use your camera and lens fully would be the D200, which is the lowest end camera to feature this kind of feature. Be aware that it only takes CF cards tho
Nice! i have an x-t2 as well, i'll have to try shooting that way soon. I also own a nikon d50 which I think should only be used with a 50mm manual focus, very fun camera to play around with once you master it its a breeze and the pictures are perfect for the film look especially after editing.
Nice tips. The lens is the main thing. My current favorite lens is the $19 Holga lens for the Canon EF mount. Cheap, plastic zone focussing, just like the one on the Holga cameras and it looks nearly identical to my Holga film shots when mounted on my Canon SL2, especially when I shoot in 4:3 or 1:1 aspect ratio. Not only does it lower the megapixels, you get that square format in 1:1 and really has that soft, lo-fi look.
Very interesting video! I've been considering getting an X Pro camera just to have a fun shooting experience when I don't feel like buying more film haha
Shooting with an x-pro3 with Canon FD lenses and metabones speedbooster. I use FujixWeekly recipes, and coming from (35mm) film, it has been an almost seamless transition! I also have an x-pro1 which is my "fun" camera that I've adaptes Pentax auto 110 lenses to, but I'm going to get a Canon FD to Fuji X-mount tilt-shift adapter for it soon.
What works for me is shooting vintage glass on CCD cameras. I also will carry a film camera sometimes and use the digital to take test shots (say, trying out different compositions or focal lengths) before shooting a final frame or two with film - probably the only reason I can really afford to shoot film. Great vid, btw.
@@pushingfilm Cheers, and thank you. One other 'system' i find really good is going out with a superzoom on - usually 18-180 which is a 4/3 Olympus - and using it to look around, frame things and take test shots. Then i have a small bag with half a dozen vintage primes which i switch to to take the final image. I'm usually shooting isolated elements in landscapes, and this seems to work well for that type of shooting.
Great Video thanks! I thought the title was a bit too clickbaity and there are lots of pretty crappy videos out on this topic, but your video was quality all the way through once I overcame my hesitation and watched it. Cheers
Hey cool - I literally have my partner’s D50 at my desk at the moment, testing out some old F-mount glass that needs the af motor in the body :) might have to try shooting some portraits with it :)
I no longer have access to a darkroom, so I don't shoot film any longer, but I do shoot TTV(through the viewfinder). I mate my digital camera through the viewfinder of an old Kodak, or Agfa camera.
hi, nice samples from the XZ-1. just got myself one too.. may i know setting for the photo you using on this XZ-1? should i shoot in fine or just standard resolution to get more lo-fi look? thanks for sharing
Thanks! I just used the aperture priority mode, highest resolution, and raw. I then applied the Olympus profiles in Lightroom and made some tweaks. You can add grain, and use film presets to step up that film look.
Here’s another tip: get an Olympus OMD or Pen with the 16MP sensor (any will do). The noise up to ISO 6400 on the Olympus is very film like. Also, Olympus (now OM Systems) offers Olympus Workspace which allows you to customize your own color profiles, some Olympus cameras allow you to store these in camera. The tiny XZ-2 is also a good choice. That said: just shoot film if you want film results. Either it’s worth it or not. If you work on a longer term project and you rely on consistent results, stock up on the film stock you chose, buying enough in advance so you can finish your project. Another tip: color film is more expensive than b&w.
Hey does anyone know if you can attach a Tiffen Pro Mist filter onto one of the CCD digi cams like the olympus xz-1? Not sure if that's a silly question, i'm very new to photography ! Thank you :)
Hi there! Which exact 28-80mm lens was it that was used for the water pictures with the Nikon D50? And are those pictures edited? I love them so much, I'd love to recreate the look of those pictures on my next holiday. Thank you!
Hey. It was the 28-80mm f3.3-5.6 as far as my metadata shows. Not sure beyond that, since I haven't used that camera since 2006. There was a bit of editing done in Lightroom... but if you saw the before/after, the difference is fairly subtle. I think good light and colours helped a lot too, hope you enjoy it!
great, great video on a subject i’m very interested in. we would love to see your process to edit for the filmic look! i think the vintage lens approach is easiest and gives best results. the older the better. keeping in mind that old lenses may have fungus or haze which can be difficult to work with. keep in mind when adapting lenses there are pitfalls with focusing to infinity and focal length. mirrorless cameras are awesome because you can adapt any lens to them, but sometimes the lens/body combination can’t focus to infinity without another piece of glass in the adapter. also, film/35mm lenses will have a different focal length if you adapt them to a camera body with a crop sensor (eg. a 50mm lens film camera lens works out to be more like 75mm on a crop sensor) old lens systems i use a lot are M39/Leica thread mount (fantastic), Nikon F (especially pre AI), and older Canon FD and Pentax. sometimes i use multiple adapters together to get different effects-for example, an X mount to PK lens adapter, with a PK mount to FD lens adapter, then shoot wide open gives you an insane glow and unique softness vintage lenses i love: miranda 50-f1.8 jupiter 8 50-f2 canon FD 50-f1.4
Thanks very much! You're right about the pitfalls, the most annoying to me is the crop factor... especially when you like wider focal lengths. Nice choice of lenses! there are so many great affordable options out there :-)
i shoot film, but i love to take pictures at partys and to always have a film camera and simply the cost of random guys taking the pictures and fucking them up is a bit of a hassle so i just thinking to get a small cheap digital camera i can throw around simply so everybody can take random pics and then if its get broken its not so bad and its way easier for everybody to actually do it
Interesting comment about the digicam images having a 'slide film' look - I think you've hit it right on the head Hashem. I still love E6 films and I find myself drifting towards that 'look' whenever I edit my digital images. Richer, more saturated colours suit my work, so I guess I'm just a 70's photography tragic :)
The CCD compact digi cams have been all the craze in Asia. Lots of Japanese and Chinese youths have been buying those cameras to relive childhood nostalgia!
So I've been hearing!
The MySpace look.
Warning though, some of those digicams take weird storage cards and proprietary chargers.
also, 3:30 photolab film scanners mainly have CCD sensors
I wanted to get back into film photography but seeing how expensive film is now. I'm gonna dust my old Pentax optio S and H90, need to find the chargers tho.
Oh my goodness. Thank you for the shout out! Absolutely love this video and all the fantastic tips. I’ve really been enjoying the stacking approach as well and have been playing with my 5D classic and adapted OM lenses from the 70s. Such a great look and fun experience. Your XZ-1 shots continue to blow me away btw. Thanks again and keep this great content coming!
you’re my spirit animal!!
@@eraserone1 Hello unicorn friend!!
Any time! That's great, I've always heard good things about that camera. I think my 6D shares the sensor from the 5D II, so it looks a bit more "modern". Looking forward to that DP2 video btw! I just saw that you drew it for the next camera... what a weird looking thing haha
Let me tell you, I have a 2007 Canon Powershot G9. With the correct conditions and lighting it absolutely kills it. (Especially with the flash on) The photos turn out so good. Honestly some of the shots look so similar to film it’s hard to tell the difference. Very underrated camera for sure.
Do you get wifi on that digital camera? Like can you transfer photos to phone?
@@fruitloopisback1336 nope. SD card
@@DirectorNoah23 that’s shit
@@fruitloopisback1336 it’s from 2007.
@@fruitloopisback1336 I have an xpro2 and I've used the WiFi shit like once every
I once owned a Nikon D40 and loved the images it took. The CCD sensor makes a big difference in how a camera renders a scene. Today, I mainly shoot Fuji XE-2S. The XTrans II sensor is pure magic when it comes to achieving a film look.
What lenses do you use?
You recommend Leica m11?
I recently started looking into digital photography since my dad gifted me his Panasonic DMC FZ50 and the tips in this video helped me a lot, much appreciated ; )
Excellent. I’m not into film due time, location and cost (full time work, limited photography time, small town no developers here, and film development is getting expensive) so film look in an old digital CCD camera it is. I have the Olympus XZ-2 and Stylus 1. Both produce great photos and camera limitations make photography fun.
I work with a variety of CCD cameras and record in RAW+JPEG … this is important for editing the RAW file to achieve the luminosity of the scene as remembered, and then combine with the JPEG file to achieve the colour as was - accurately - recorded at the time. This can be easily extended to multi exposure HDR work to overcome the dynamic range limitations of the CCD.
Another thing to keep in mind is that in the early 2000’s camera manufacturers had to make a determined effort to woo their professional and semiprofessional film loyalists over to digital. They did this by hiring the very best film colour specialists around at the time before they went into retirement to help create the colour filter arrays (CFA) needed to give a film look and a recognisable house style. The sensor light gathering technology, whether it be CCD or CMOS or X-Trans etc, has very little to do with the final colour as they are by nature monochrome panchromatic. It is the CFA combined with a camera’s colour to JPEG output processing engine that defines an individual camera’s actual colour fidelity.
Unfortunately, those days are gone, and to my mind it is only really Fuji left who really make a concerted effort to make outstandingly good colour cameras capable of being dialled in properly.
Early full frame DSLR cameras like Canon 5D Mk1 and the Nikon D700 renders film like images especially the colors. I been burned out by the rising cost of film and finally broke down and bought an old D700. I can't believe a Nikon FM2 cost more that the D700 today.
Yep, its getting pretty expensive!
A good way to get the film look on a Fuji camera is to use the TTArtisan lenses. along with some weak grain added.
The lenses are inexpensive and work great and give the most film look i've seen on a digital camera.
Or just buy older lenses, since filmic look is a non-sterile look in that its flawed in one way or another, there no film that is not flawed apart from really high end medium format film used for product shoots or landscape.
As technology get better and better, so does the elimination of any flaws produced by it, kind of funny how people try to get back to it.
Once more proof that film is vastly inferior to digital because to get the so called `look` you have to resort to rock bottom quality lenses, like the one mentioned. Or adding grain your self, maybe even shoot iso 12800 to get that film look.
Ridiculous.
For a 4 month bike trip I took a a6000 paired with a vintage pentax super takumar 50mm lens and was blown away by the images straight out the camera. Lovely lens
OK Dude I've been buzzing around this topic for awhile now, probably for the last year or so...and this is hands down the absolute BEST, and I repeat BEST! video on the subject. Unparalleled-and you singularly have set the gold standard on the subject. There is such a wealth of information and a veritable trove of treasures embedded. My jaw literally dropped with your DP review search hack. I'm like: "are you f*kn serious...this guy is unbelievable!" No one need look anywhere else for information on the topic. Well done!
Hey thanks so much man! Stoked to hear this, and glad it helped you out 😁
ONE MONTH TWO CAMERAS!!! She’s my spirit animal !!
amazing video, man!
with films rising prices, I've considered using film for projects only and not as casually as I've been for the past few years. I recently picked up a digicam (canon proshot) and I've been having a blast. Really opened up creativity for me! I appreciate the nod! Stay safe!
Thank you! Yeah nice, its a great way to expand creativity like you said, whether it's because of the limitation offered, or just because it's something "new"/different :-) Sorry for taking a while to reply
The Canon 1D (classic) from 2001 has beautiful colours and its still a perfect camera 21 years later...
I use a Ricoh GR digital camera from 2005 and a 2008 Nikon D40. The images are really lovely 😍
Having fun with Ricoh CX series lately and...all others devices stay at home since...those are gems and deserve more attention
I just stumbled on this. Those are great tips. I shot film for about 30 years moving from Nikon-F to Leica-M and do miss it, but ain't going back...just like I won't go back to vinyl records 🙂. I agree with everything you put here, however, personally I find that the CMOS sensor looks more natural as a starting point than the CCD (CCD looks like a vintage TV Soap Opera to me). Also, vintage lenses are a big factor, like you mentioned. In addition to what you have here, here are some other things to consider for the film or vintage look: (1) I always have sharpness turned off - let the lens be what it is; (2) using curves to soften the transition from dark to light to reduce the dynamic range - I find that film clips a little softer than digital does and this approach mimics that; (3) I will use ISO 100-400 just like I had with film - many of my best film shots include some motion due to the ISO constraints. Also, I often had to shoot wide open because I had no choice in low light...that also created some nice surprises; (4) I find that manual mode, manual focus, and assigning dials and buttons appropriately also helps to slow things down and put me in tune with the camera settings - maybe I used to generally take better pictures with film, because I would take more time, to save money; (5) I have AWB white balance always turned off as AWB will often result in noise in one of the channels; (6) I will sometimes use real colored glass filters to correct white balance or for black and white as, again, it will reduce noise in one of the RGB channels for the final result; (7) I like to turn on the grid as I used to have those on my film cameras and it makes me take the time; (8) use a saved profile in the camera to put it into the film mimic mode when required; (9) my software of choice for film look presets is Exposure X7 and I am currently using a Sony A6500 as my only camera (plust iPhone).
Much appreciated! And good tips, thanks for sharing.
Man that sounds like hard work. Don't forget you're speaking to a generation raised on smartphones and instant gratification. If only there was a dial on the camera that could recreate Kodachrome 64 or Fuji Velvia. 😉
Another small ish tip is i then print the photograph off then use digital to photograph the print, can bring a very strong film look esp in black and white i have found in my lmited experience
Very interesting and informative. Much appreciate being able to listen without muzak all over the place.
I just picked up an XZ-1 because of this video, and it is amazing! Thank you!
Awesome! Have fun with it 😁
A big part of the reason CCDs had that look is because they are an analogue sensor that's converted to digital. Most simply, the photo cells are made of organic materials that react to light and then the light values are translated digitally by components behind that layer. (This incidentally means they have an unavoidably limited lifespan and older ones will start to change how they render an image.)
That's actually pretty fascinating! 🙂
Very fascinating. I wonder if the changing image quality “degrades” or simply just changes. Just recently into the CCD rabbit hole. Kinda cool that early 2000s cameras are now considered classic or desirable again!
Didn't know that, I try to avoid ccds these days as they need more light but this video reminded me of some classic cameras that I'll keep an eye out for
Both CCD and CMOS sensors start out as analog signals. The difference is that CMOS uses an active charge, giving better low light performance, and has an amplifier at each photo site giving faster readouts. Both add the colour information using computed digital interpolation via a colour filter such as a Bayer filter. The reason CCDs are reputed to have a more filmic look was the colour science at the time tends to use film colours as the benchmarks. Fuji cameras with Xtrans CMOS sensors can do a reasonable recreation of Kodachrome and Astia for example, which are quite different looking film stocks, precisely because of the digital colour science. My old 5D with a CMOS had a look somewhat between Kodacolour and Fujicolour due to the colour science and same with my 350D from the same era. In contrast my 400D, which again was CMOS, looked completely different due to Canon changing its colour science. Indeed many CCD digicams only shoot JPEG, which just reinforces the point that the look has been determined by the colour science of the era.
Yea this is bullshit, CCD and CMOS sensors both convert analog signals to digital in extremely similar way, the only practical difference is that old CCD sensors were benchmarked with film colors. At least research your stuff before writing an half-assed poetic comment.
I still own the original Fuji X100 for this very reason. Very filmic output.
dude awesome video. I've been strictly film for like two years and I just made the transition to a digital guy. stackin'
Interesting video- I keep my Nikon D700 around for this very reason. It definitely has that "filmic" feel.
Nikon D200 and Sony A350/80/90 . The D200 has a 10mp CCD and the Sonys have 14mp. 14mp photos can be printed @ 300dpi up to 13x19.
An amazing old dslr camera to add to the list should be the Fujifilm Finepix S5 Pro with Nikon F mount. The BW rendering is incredible, looks like the old Kodak Panatomic X.
Thank You very much for plain comprehensive explanation and excellent presentation, which I haven't met before elsewhere. Highly Usefull.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks a lot for these very clear explanations.
Take care of yourself.
Thanks!
I want to grow by exploring, appreciating and treasuring all the moments of my life. I badly want to have an digital camera or recorder but as of now, my parents won't allow me because its too expensive, and hoping that I can enhace my skills in photography and filming .
Great man. I have been down this rabbit hole for years but you taught me a couple things I didn't know so thankyou.
Also the earlier M42 takumar glass has some kind of coating that has an universally aged orange. I got very similar kodak gold colors with a 5DC and vintage tak glass straight off the bat.
Interesting video! Great topic. I'm also quite interested in how to simulate the analog film look in digital photography. I'm shooting with Olympus XZ-2 (bought 2012), therefore I'm happy to see you're using the XZ-1. I like the Art filters by Olympus (monochrome in particular; kind of reminds me of a contrastier Illford HP5).
Thank you! Yeah that's the only one I've bothered playing with on the XZ-1 😁
The greatest camera that literally is like operating a film camera and shoots images that look like film, has to be Sigma Foveon cameras, they are VERY SLOW to work with, and I mean it when I say slow.
You gotta expose correctly or you are screwed, JUST LIKE FILM! And the only working ISO range is usually 100 - 400 with the older Foveon, with the newer ones you can go up to 800 ISO thats usable but expert colour artefacts!
The upside with Sigma cameras is that they cost reasonable prices despite being quite literally 6000 dollar cameras at launch day they gone down in prices, so has the SA mount lenses, these cameras are also pretty easy to use as in there very little buttons and shit that will confuse you, all the buttons you would find on an old school film camera will be found on a Sigma, the colours these cameras produce are also closest to film since they capture R, G and B on 3 independent sensor arrays sandwiched together, both CCD and CMOS capture colours in a pattern array with R+G+B pixels, some have white pixels and some have more green pixels etc, its different arrays basically like Fujifilm and their X-Trans sensor which is just CMOS but with a different colour array.
Honestly, if you love taking pictures but is not a professional about it, buy a smaller camera, you are far more likely to carry it around with you, if you have trouble taking pictures in public like me with a huge freaking camera because it makes you look like a twat lets be honest, then a smaller camera will make you look like a tourist, you rather be a tourist, than a local with a big camera, trust me, and in some countries, getting mugged is a problem and walking around with a huge camera = rich man.
Smaller cameras are also a lot more fun to use, specially fixed lens compacts, the crazy zooms they possess is fun to use, they are absolutely atrocious in low light situation, but keep in mind low light photography was pretty much impossible handheld just 20 years ago before digital came along and changed it, small camera does not have to be 1/2.3 inch sensor, or 1 inch, they can even be full frame! Yes full frame compacts exist, usually these cameras have fixed lenses, but MFT and APS-C sensor compacts are around which can give you zooms and a lot of flexibility specially in dynamic range, these small 1/2.3 inch sensors tend to have no wiggle room, what you capture is what you get, you wont have much adjustment in post. Which kind of reminds me of colour slide film.
Great ideas! Loved shooting film, but it gets pricey. I picked up an original GR digital and it’s become my “digital film” camera. It gets high regards for BW, but I also really enjoy the color photos for that classic look.
Those are great! they still fetch a high price too
CCD sensors don't really have less accurate color than a CMOS sensor. Improvements in color accuracy over time which was concurrent with the rise of CMOS has more to do with improvements in the color filter array (CFA) on the sensor. Color dyes used to be more prominent in the CFAs but have largely been replaced with pigments (side note: pigments are fine particle based coloration, often inorganic material and not water soluble. dyes are typically water soluble organic compounds). Pigment based CFAs tend to have better resistance to light, which allows them to retain better spectral purity in brightly lit conditions, which allows better color accuracy in bright conditions. Older dye based CFAs sometimes have more cross-talk between color channels. Also, some really old digital cameras (pre-2003) didn't have the best IR-UV blocking ''hot mirrors" affixed on top of the CFA which could result in decreased color accuracy in IR-rich light sources and increased UV sensitivity under strong daylight on high-UV index days. Since this development happened in parallel with CMOS becoming more common, it gives a false impression of CMOS having superior color accuracy.
CMOS does have better dynamic range though, most often! But I think (am not sure) many cameras still are made with CCDs, since CCD technology has improved over time. SPAD technology invented by Canon is a potential successor to CMOS with even better dynamic range and improved noise profile (SPAD works better in low light compared to CMOS). In any case, CMOS typically uses a rolling shutter which can result in strange motion artifacts. CCD sensors captured all at once, exposing like film does. So that is another reason CCD may seem more film like.
The main issue with CMOS historically was the rolling shutter. That has been addressed, I think, with EIS. It was always the more cost-effective option.
My phone videos don't look terribly cinematic, but an app that mimics film does, to stunning effect. Soft, high dynamic range, soft vignette around the edges, and even the option of grain. It looks like old Super 8 by default, but has settings for 16mm, Super 16, and 35mm emulation.
What app do you use for that?
i started with digital photography with an olympus e-300 back in 2005, this was such a great camera, so much better colors than the canon 30d back then....when i find one, i shure will buy one....today i got an original sealed canon ixus 90is from 2008, still with ccd sensor, even the accu and sd-card were sealed, never used .....€ 60,-- was a ok price....greets BM 🙂
I have found that lower Mp sensors plays a big part.
I still use my D100 (6Mp), D200 (10Mp) CCD sensor bodies and kept my early Fuji cameras, the X-E1 and X-E2S both X-Trans first and second edition 16Mp sensor array. With manual F mount and adapted film lenses for both my Nikon and Fujis.
I found that the 10-16 Mp is the sweet spot for getting that "filmic" look with most lens combinations. Around 20 Mps I found to be the threshold of the analog look before it becomes digital and too clean and sharp to where you have to manipulate and use a form of IQ reduction in Post to get the "look" with either presets or lots of slider experimentations.
Good points! The resolutions certainly took a jump in those earlier days.
Just found your channel and subscribed. Useful content, capably presented, without distracting hype. You connect well with viewers. Well done. Love the “layering” tip. Have some old Pentax lenses - will dust them off and adapt to Fuji X cam. Cheers!
Thanks so much! Enjoy 🙂
The Nikon d100 has the same sensor as the epson r-d1. I only buy vintage ccd sensor digital and I too am a film shooter.
Foveon sensors are the best for the film look. I have a Sigma Sd Quattro and the stills are mind blowing. The colors and tones are second only to film. It beats my Fujifilm cameras even with the film recipes
Hey, but which lens do you use for your best results on the Sigma sd Quattro. Thanks ;)
@@dp55822 i use the sigma 17-50mm zoom lens. I like it because you can stop it down to f2.8 throughout the focal length of the lens and its super sharp!
you know, when digital cameras made it to the point where they were better than film (around 8mp was a little better than the 35mm film i used to use) we were happy to make the transition. I find it interesting that people now are looking for a lesser quality result.
The truth is: It's the highlight roll-of and and dynamic range in film photos. So here's what you do: You take any camera that has a DR+/Auto-ETTR function and shoot it native ISO and RAW and bam, put it in lightroom, slap an S-curve on there, play with the colors, done.
I'd love to see the work behind figuring out how to match a digital image to a film stock! 🙏
I l’ve had good success with Jamie Windsor’s film presets using my Nikon Z6ii.
His stuff is great!
Wonderful!!! I have the 5D classic, xpro1, 1D classic(spoilt) and various vintage lenses from Takumar, etc. Digicams like the LX3 are awesome and I will highly recommend the FUJIFILM S3 Pro! I just need to edit more images from it and share. But great thoughts there.
I will say CCD sensors kind of look awesome with good light and they eat battery quiet a lot.
Also, when thinking of adapters, most cameras adapt easily to canon so I got Nikon to canon adapter, m42- canon, Minolta -canon, Olympus - canon and then I got a viltrox canon to Fujifilm speed booster adapter. Now I have variety of lenses to use anytime.
Also i don’t know but it felt like you implied ccd might be inferior a bit in dynamic range and true Colour compared to cmos. I would say it’s subjective. Their rendering is ‘true’ to the light available and that adds to the joy of using it.
Also, most had lower megapixel at the time and that meant bigger sensor photo sites which captured light well and noise looked natural (unless heavily pushed then they mess up and some showed banding).
Lovely video and I’ve learnt much. Thank you!
I tend to use vintage lenses anyway, with my digital cameras. Namely, because they're cheaper and I like the look they give. But, I also use them on my film cameras as they're usually the ones I also buy for them, as well. I do have modern lenses, but they're also camera specific and for specific purposes (astrophotography, etc).
I also shoot film and digital side by side, often with the same lens, and match the contrast and colors.
I saw a Leica S that looked like it was in great shape on ebay. It was a type 006 with the 37mp Kodak CCD. $5000 starting bid. Maybe someday...
I have that neon sign in my photo shop ThePhotoStore in Warkworth New Zealand, been there since 99, excellent video and great recommendations, I always liked the Fuji Super CCD which had a looser array, the Olympus picture effects are great fun, canon G12 was a goodie, Sony Rx100ii, that xz2 and ten is on my shelf for sale, I pick and choose the best of all time, I would say it is the super fast aperture’s help for film look and some Olympus and other digitals had built in nd which adds again to the light control, I find u need a shallow depth of field is nicest when using film lens on digital, great idea to hunt out those gems and go for a photo walk, raw would help but not essential, canon eos has great picture styles to really pop your contrast with eg orange filters, great video, love it
That's awesome! So cool to know there's another in active service 😁 Good camera picks, and glad you liked the video.
@@pushingfilm thanks man, we are pumping, we scan and restore old photos with Neural Filters in Photoshop and im sitting here designing our new in house cnc cut range of photo frames basically Polaroids that look like Instagram posts and filmstrips in 4:3 1:1 and 16:9 landscape and portrait
my favourite way to get the filmic look I want, is to shoot the image with a film recipe / sim on my X-T2, but shooting RAM + JPEG, then matching the RAW file to the JPEG (more or less), it's usually pretty easy. That way I can keep the DR of the RAW file and still keep the look I wanted for the shot, as well as doing a few tweaks along the way.
I only do that for pictures that I think are worth it or really need a bit of editing, otherwise SOOC JPEG are generally fine, especially with Fujis
Also, about old Nikons, the nice thing is that those cameras have the same lens mount as older film cameras from the 60s, so every lens just goes on there natively. However, Nikon lenses are a bit tricky to work with. See, to get teh best focus, a little lever is keeping the lens wide opened all the time, even if you turn the aperture ring to close it down. It only allows the aperture to close when you press the shutter, and that the lever is pulled down, allowing the blades to move. The way old film cameras talked to the lens back then is with a little rotary encoder on the very ring that you turn, and the more closed the aperture was, the more that encoder turned as well, and allowed the camera to know that the aperture would close when the shutter release happens. Digital cameras like the D40, D50, D60, D70 (D70S), D80 etc don't have that encoder, so shooting with those cameras and vintages lenses is a NIGHTMARE, even more difficult than shooting film : you'll have to guess, based on your settings and the lights conditions you're in, if your exposure settings are good or not. You don't have acces to the light meter (nor semi automatic modes like aperture priority for that matter) since the camera can't know what the exposure settings are.
Nikon did eventually put the aperture encoder on their high end bodies, but it didn't make its way into consumer cameras until the D7000 which at this point has a pretty modern CMOS sensor anyway. The recommended camera if you want that CCD look but still want to use your camera and lens fully would be the D200, which is the lowest end camera to feature this kind of feature. Be aware that it only takes CF cards tho
Nice! i have an x-t2 as well, i'll have to try shooting that way soon. I also own a nikon d50 which I think should only be used with a 50mm manual focus, very fun camera to play around with once you master it its a breeze and the pictures are perfect for the film look especially after editing.
I have Olympus EPL1 and Ricoh gx200 Your Channel its Amazing.
Cheers from Germany
Hey thanks so much! Really appreciate it 🙂
The GX200 is brilliant a GR but with a zoom lens and even step zoom.
As always Hashem great video, thanks.
Thanks, as always! 🙂
Good video, Hashem! I Iove that Olympus XZ-1! I have wanted one for ages!
Thanks Nathan! Yeah it's a lot of fun :-D
@@pushingfilm I probably saw that very one on Gumtree lol!!
@@MeasuredLight haha, oh no way! 😅
@@pushingfilm I'll get one one day 🤣😅
Nice tips. The lens is the main thing. My current favorite lens is the $19 Holga lens for the Canon EF mount. Cheap, plastic zone focussing, just like the one on the Holga cameras and it looks nearly identical to my Holga film shots when mounted on my Canon SL2, especially when I shoot in 4:3 or 1:1 aspect ratio. Not only does it lower the megapixels, you get that square format in 1:1 and really has that soft, lo-fi look.
I can imagine! haha I didn't even know that was an option :)
Great video and explanation !!
I recently went back and looked at some of my Nikon D80 shots (CCD) as well. I enjoyed that process.
Same here except with a D60. These cameras weren't great in low light due to noise, but in daylight.. quite film like.
Whaooo just what I needed, thanks!
Happy to help!
Bruh I be falling in love 😂
Very interesting video! I've been considering getting an X Pro camera just to have a fun shooting experience when I don't feel like buying more film haha
Do it!!!
Shooting with an x-pro3 with Canon FD lenses and metabones speedbooster. I use FujixWeekly recipes, and coming from (35mm) film, it has been an almost seamless transition! I also have an x-pro1 which is my "fun" camera that I've adaptes Pentax auto 110 lenses to, but I'm going to get a Canon FD to Fuji X-mount tilt-shift adapter for it soon.
Sounds great!
I don't really think old digicams have a Film look, but I agree that they have a nostalgic look.
Hi Hashem, great video and content. I find using vintage lens on my a7iii works a dream. Mastic labs presets are good too.
Thank you! Yes, Mastin Labs is great 🙂
What works for me is shooting vintage glass on CCD cameras. I also will carry a film camera sometimes and use the digital to take test shots (say, trying out different compositions or focal lengths) before shooting a final frame or two with film - probably the only reason I can really afford to shoot film. Great vid, btw.
Good system! And thank you 🙂
@@pushingfilm Cheers, and thank you. One other 'system' i find really good is going out with a superzoom on - usually 18-180 which is a 4/3 Olympus - and using it to look around, frame things and take test shots. Then i have a small bag with half a dozen vintage primes which i switch to to take the final image. I'm usually shooting isolated elements in landscapes, and this seems to work well for that type of shooting.
Very informative, thanks.
Thanks
Thanks so much! :-D
Great Video thanks! I thought the title was a bit too clickbaity and there are lots of pretty crappy videos out on this topic, but your video was quality all the way through once I overcame my hesitation and watched it. Cheers
Get the 5D and shoot with higher iso 😉
Nice video. Love the photos of city beach ⛱
Thanks!
I miss the digicam flash look like the ones you would take at a night club in 2006, thats the nostalgic y2k look for me
Hey cool - I literally have my partner’s D50 at my desk at the moment, testing out some old F-mount glass that needs the af motor in the body :) might have to try shooting some portraits with it :)
Enjoy! I guess the crop factor is another thing to consider, but even then it's a lot of fun :-)
I no longer have access to a darkroom, so I don't shoot film any longer, but I do shoot TTV(through the viewfinder). I mate my digital camera through the viewfinder of an old Kodak, or Agfa camera.
hi, nice samples from the XZ-1. just got myself one too.. may i know setting for the photo you using on this XZ-1? should i shoot in fine or just standard resolution to get more lo-fi look? thanks for sharing
Thanks! I just used the aperture priority mode, highest resolution, and raw. I then applied the Olympus profiles in Lightroom and made some tweaks. You can add grain, and use film presets to step up that film look.
@@pushingfilm thank you for the tips.. definitely will give a try
Here’s another tip: get an Olympus OMD or Pen with the 16MP sensor (any will do). The noise up to ISO 6400 on the Olympus is very film like. Also, Olympus (now OM Systems) offers Olympus Workspace which allows you to customize your own color profiles, some Olympus cameras allow you to store these in camera.
The tiny XZ-2 is also a good choice.
That said: just shoot film if you want film results. Either it’s worth it or not. If you work on a longer term project and you rely on consistent results, stock up on the film stock you chose, buying enough in advance so you can finish your project.
Another tip: color film is more expensive than b&w.
Agree with you about the noise. The noise on my E-M5 II and 16 mp sensor is much more even and pleasing than on the E-M1 II with 20 mp sensor.
9:56 is that Michael Cavanagh ??
Nikon D700 also worth mentioning
Amazing well of tips
Glad you think so!
even Olympus m43 cameras have very filmic images
Which Fujifilm Camera do you recommend for starter? Like from cheap to expensive?
What is that rangefinder next to your x-pro3 @2:34?
The Leica M-A
Thanks for the info man !
Hey, thanks for watching!
Hey does anyone know if you can attach a Tiffen Pro Mist filter onto one of the CCD digi cams like the olympus xz-1? Not sure if that's a silly question, i'm very new to photography ! Thank you :)
Hi there! Which exact 28-80mm lens was it that was used for the water pictures with the Nikon D50? And are those pictures edited? I love them so much, I'd love to recreate the look of those pictures on my next holiday. Thank you!
Hey. It was the 28-80mm f3.3-5.6 as far as my metadata shows. Not sure beyond that, since I haven't used that camera since 2006. There was a bit of editing done in Lightroom... but if you saw the before/after, the difference is fairly subtle. I think good light and colours helped a lot too, hope you enjoy it!
Great list 😎✌️
Get a Fujifilm XE1 with 7artisans 35mm1.2 mark2 and that’s all you ever need
Great video, what settings de you use on the photos taken with xz1? The colours are awesome
Thanks! I usually use aperture priority mode with wider apertures, ISO locked to 100 or so, and shoot raw to edit later in lightroom.
I was thinking how about a Nikon D80? with older AI/AIS lenses? don't even need adapter~
I want film cameras under 500$🥺
Just bought a Pentax MX for $35. It works fine too.
I just bought Zenit 11. Its only 20$ in Russia.
@@ru2ik May I ask, are all the settings etc in English or in Russian? I see some for sale but I am wondering if I will be able to read it, lol.
@@TheEternalOuroboros all settings are just nums
@@ru2ik I see, thank you.
great, great video on a subject i’m very interested in. we would love to see your process to edit for the filmic look!
i think the vintage lens approach is easiest and gives best results. the older the better. keeping in mind that old lenses may have fungus or haze which can be difficult to work with.
keep in mind when adapting lenses there are pitfalls with focusing to infinity and focal length. mirrorless cameras are awesome because you can adapt any lens to them, but sometimes the lens/body combination can’t focus to infinity without another piece of glass in the adapter. also, film/35mm lenses will have a different focal length if you adapt them to a camera body with a crop sensor (eg. a 50mm lens film camera lens works out to be more like 75mm on a crop sensor)
old lens systems i use a lot are M39/Leica thread mount (fantastic), Nikon F (especially pre AI), and older Canon FD and Pentax. sometimes i use multiple adapters together to get different effects-for example, an X mount to PK lens adapter, with a PK mount to FD lens adapter, then shoot wide open gives you an insane glow and unique softness
vintage lenses i love:
miranda 50-f1.8
jupiter 8 50-f2
canon FD 50-f1.4
Thanks very much! You're right about the pitfalls, the most annoying to me is the crop factor... especially when you like wider focal lengths. Nice choice of lenses! there are so many great affordable options out there :-)
Subscribed because of Cavs from King Gizzard
Nikon D3 has a great “film” look
i shoot film, but i love to take pictures at partys and to always have a film camera and simply the cost of random guys taking the pictures and fucking them up is a bit of a hassle so i just thinking to get a small cheap digital camera i can throw around simply so everybody can take random pics and then if its get broken its not so bad and its way easier for everybody to actually do it
Nice... Thank you very much!
Interesting comment about the digicam images having a 'slide film' look - I think you've hit it right on the head Hashem. I still love E6 films and I find myself drifting towards that 'look' whenever I edit my digital images. Richer, more saturated colours suit my work, so I guess I'm just a 70's photography tragic :)
Nothing wrong with that 😁
Are those olympus xz-1 Photos edited, or is that how they look straight from the camera? Amazing photos
Try the Olympus camedia c-4040. Images from that camera is really beautiful
I predominantly shot color film, but honestly, since the price of color film has increased, I find myself shooting color digital.
used all 6 and now i got photos looking more film than film itself
😁
excellent video Hashem, ab
d yes please do a tutorial on matching digital to film I would] enjoy that
Thanks Anthony! Took me a while to get through comments recently, but good to know you'd be interested. Noted :-)
My Fuji X100 is fun, but also the Sony A7 with Voigtlanders has a retro look.
My favorite is Nostalgic Neg
Do you think the Canon G7X Mark II produces that filmic look as well?
Hey! I'm not too sure as I haven't had experience with that. I would look up info and samples on the site I referred to and/or Flickr.