Earl Hooper Just finished the install on my 1990, engine installed. The NA reveals some specific issues that were not address on any of the online materials found. A learned a few things that may be of help. First, I could not with confidence install without making as much room as possible. Removed the ignition coil, valve cover, and CAS (and few other small things). My 1/4" socket set with swivel head ratchet was very helpful. The lower and upper bolts are not reachable with a 3/8th drive. On the top back bolt there is not clearance for a 3/8" drive socket (maybe a thin wall). Second, discovered (the hard way) that installing the temp gage sensor would not allow the CAS to be installed. Was not expecting that, but reversed the order and all went in, but had to modified an old box wrench (did not have a crows foot) to get the sensor tight. As a racing application, this would go in easy with the engine out of the car. An in car install is a big challenge but possible with the correct tools. Third, and just a recommendation if you are going to make such a big effort to install this reroute, go to a hard water line to the radiator. It is worth the effort.
Earl Hooper To clarify; you reversed the order of installing the reroute fitting minus the sensor, then installed the CAS and then afterward installed the sensor with a modified crows foot. Is this correct? What is a crows foot ?
The fastener used to hold the housing to the back of the head come with the re-route? I didn't receive one and had to re-use the stock bolt, and its a tight fit, couldn't really torque it down.
How did you tighten the mounting bolts? Specifically the upper right one? There isn't enough clearance between the body of the aluminum to get a socket on, or is there enough room to tighten the wrench before it ends up hitting the wall of the reroute.
Curious why you left your temp sensor in the front where it seems like there would not be as much coolant flow since its all closed off vs running it to the port on the back that you sealed up? I am looking to do this install having moved back to Arizona and was planning to install temp gauge and using the port in the back.
Duhamal the front still sees lots of flow from the small bypass line. It comes out the side of the housing and loops back to the water pump. It ensures water is moving when the thermostat is closed. Since water is always moving through it (more than allowed by the tiny bypass hole at the thermostat) you could argue that this will give more accurate readings at lower temps.
Rich Tran the hard pipe? It’s just 1.25” copper plumbing, the brackets are custom made out of 3/4”x1/8” aluminum and mount to 10mm bolt holes already on the frame rail.
Did you notice if using the stock gaskets blocked the coolant flow? Was reading on Rev limiters blog and that's the reason to use the gasket maker over the stock gasket
Just wanted to concur with the sealant over the gasket in back. Bought the gasket when I saw this original post, but noticed an overhang in the housing. Came to the conclusion that it may cause turbulence in the water flow so decided not to use it.
If one to find fault in an otherwise perfect car, the rather lazy engineering makeshift way the factory coolant system was installed. At least they could have plugged the one port with something other than a rubber nipple. Inexcusable actually.
Earl Hooper
Just finished the install on my 1990, engine installed. The NA reveals some specific issues that were not address on any of the online materials found. A learned a few things that may be of help.
First, I could not with confidence install without making as much room as possible. Removed the ignition coil, valve cover, and CAS (and few other small things). My 1/4" socket set with swivel head ratchet was very helpful. The lower and upper bolts are not reachable with a 3/8th drive. On the top back bolt there is not clearance for a 3/8" drive socket (maybe a thin wall).
Second, discovered (the hard way) that installing the temp gage sensor would not allow the CAS to be installed. Was not expecting that, but reversed the order and all went in, but had to modified an old box wrench (did not have a crows foot) to get the sensor tight.
As a racing application, this would go in easy with the engine out of the car. An in car install is a big challenge but possible with the correct tools.
Third, and just a recommendation if you are going to make such a big effort to install this reroute, go to a hard water line to the radiator. It is worth the effort.
Earl Hooper To clarify; you reversed the order of installing the reroute fitting minus the sensor, then installed the CAS and then afterward installed the sensor with a modified crows foot. Is this correct? What is a crows foot ?
Interesting. We applied the sealant just the same and it didn’t stick, massive leaking. In the end a gasket was needed.
I had the same exact issue last night ,started leaking from the seam where the two halves mate.
Qmax :)
The fastener used to hold the housing to the back of the head come with the re-route? I didn't receive one and had to re-use the stock bolt, and its a tight fit, couldn't really torque it down.
How did you tighten the mounting bolts? Specifically the upper right one? There isn't enough clearance between the body of the aluminum to get a socket on, or is there enough room to tighten the wrench before it ends up hitting the wall of the reroute.
Well done! Looks awesome.
How do I tighten down the top bolt to the housing. Sockets don’t fit wrenches either
We modified a wrench
Curious why you left your temp sensor in the front where it seems like there would not be as much coolant flow since its all closed off vs running it to the port on the back that you sealed up? I am looking to do this install having moved back to Arizona and was planning to install temp gauge and using the port in the back.
Duhamal the front still sees lots of flow from the small bypass line. It comes out the side of the housing and loops back to the water pump. It ensures water is moving when the thermostat is closed. Since water is always moving through it (more than allowed by the tiny bypass hole at the thermostat) you could argue that this will give more accurate readings at lower temps.
adding the section of hard line is genius...what are your thoughts on using thin-wall stainless steel in place of the copper?
Joey Baby that would work just fine! We used copper because we were able to drive 2 mins to a plumbing store and get the proper size for cheap.
@@angevaaremotorsports779 did you use any particular solder?
Joey Baby just normal plumbing grade stuff.
You don't have the P/N of the gaskets do you? That of been super helpful...
No, they're just from Mazda
Do I need to change the head gasket on the VVT motor for this to work, or is it fine with the stock head gasket on the VVT motor?
Tommie Lee No you do not need to change the head gasket. Stock gasket is fine
Hey do you have the link to what piping you got for that coolant reroute. It looks clean
Rich Tran the hard pipe? It’s just 1.25” copper plumbing, the brackets are custom made out of 3/4”x1/8” aluminum and mount to 10mm bolt holes already on the frame rail.
Better hope that thermostat lasts a looooong time lol
as with most of the reroute kits...
Do you have the part numbers still for the oe gaskets
steve aguero it is the same gasket for front and back: B621-15-173
Awesome thanks getting my kit tomorrow so will be going the gasket route also
Did you notice if using the stock gaskets blocked the coolant flow? Was reading on Rev limiters blog and that's the reason to use the gasket maker over the stock gasket
Ours actually leaked from the gasket so we ended up just using the sealant - So far so good. Thanks for the update
Just wanted to concur with the sealant over the gasket in back. Bought the gasket when I saw this original post, but noticed an overhang in the housing. Came to the conclusion that it may cause turbulence in the water flow so decided not to use it.
If one to find fault in an otherwise perfect car, the rather lazy engineering makeshift way the factory coolant system was installed. At least they could have plugged the one port with something other than a rubber nipple. Inexcusable actually.
lol... Pretty much dead...