The male and female pivot components can rotate freely in the handle in all generations. This is independent from the tightening/loosening of the actual screw. Reason I mentioned this, rotating the whole pivot assembly can mess with centering on these Gen 6s (in addition to loosening/tightening the screw). None of my Gen 5s or 6s have blade play, but I do have centering issues with the newer Gen 6s on Teflon or PB Washers. Lockbar "push" just shows that the lock wasn't cut properly. Less room for error with a steel insert. Regarding Geometry, I usually reprofile to 20* per side on the Hinderers. Great review as aways. Enjoyed it.
Man this is a great video. Very rarely do we get someone who uses knives like they’re meant, and speaks clearly, with thoughts and information about the knife and all its weak points and strong points. Damn good review.
Great video. I love mine, got the blue G10. I found that before dissamebly I put a piece of masking tape on all the female screw barrels, including the female side of the pivot. It makes it a whole lot easier when putting the knife back together. Everything will stay put. These are fantastic knives.
Hinderer knives are so good looking. Every time I see a pic or a video of one, I’m tempted to buy one. One day I’m definitely going to have to get one. But if I get one, I may want more haha!
Joseph A Hahaha! I wish I felt the same. This is my 5th or 6th Hinderer and I’m still not giddy about them. This one is cool, but it doesn’t make me feel warm and fuzzy 😂😂😂. I can’t put my finger on it, but I don’t know. Sometimes I think it is a looks thing, but more of the fact that it seems like Hinderers are more about changing hardware and all that stuff than flat out utility.
I had 2 Gen 6 Non Flippers and had similar issues with them. I held on to them for a good while because I’m a huge Hinderer Knives fan but ended up selling them. I haven’t gotten many Hinderer in the last 3 years because I liked the old Teflon pivot system. It’s to much going on in the Gen 6 if you switch it out to BP or Teflon like a big washer sandwich lol. I’m saying all this because I just ordered the 3” Gen 6 Non flipper and I’m going to try it again. Hopefully it won’t have any issues...
Yeah, there are just too many variables. I commend him for taking on the challenge to give people what they want, while still sticking to his stance on Teflon, but it’s just too tall of an order to be done reliably well.
I added a little pressure to my lock bar. Felt loose and floppy. But I felt more confident. And the lock was top notch. I beat the living shit out of it. Tried to get it to fail. It was perfect
I received my new hinderer eklipse harpoon tanto 2 weeks ago. It’s a great looking knife. I can’t decide if I like the phosphorus bronze washers or the bearings more. I keep swapping between the two and I like them both.
Another great video My Friend 👍🏻 I’m back in the hinderer loop myself since I just pulled the trigger on a Skinny slicer 18 3.5 . Btw I’ve found blue loctite always must be used after disassembling most Hinderers and sometimes even without breaking them down since they will come loose if you don’t loctite the pivot screw.
The Factor I don’t think knives in this price bracket should need Teflon tape or loctite. Especially when he’s machining all the hardware in house. It should be of the utmost quality.
Alchemy_1 I totally get it and understand. I also think it has to do with the weight of the blade and how solid lock up is when it slams open . Then add bearings so it flys open and shut with Authority . I just put very little loctite on the first few threads and never had one back off . I know what your saying though but for me the knife excels in every other area and it such a easy remedy I don’t mind .
Love your channel man. Just subscribed. I’m an appliance service technician and have been looking for the perfect folding knife forever and a day. I think it’s a lost cause just like the perfect do all rifle idea. Anyways, keep up the good videos. Cheers.
I fell for the non flippers in generation 4 when the flipper action on the flippers was poor. I still think the non-flippers are the way to go even in gen. 6.
I wonder if they tune the detents differently on the flippers vs. the non-flippers. My new XM-18 Gen. 6 flipper has such a strong detent if it were not for the flipper tab I would not be able to open it at all unless 2 handed like a slip joint. No way I can snap or sweep it open with the studs. I also has no side play open or closed.
Rick said, I believe in the video where the nonflippers were debuted, that they are tuned differently. I could be wrong on the video, but that seems right and I know it was him in one of their videos dedicated to the gen 6 XM’s.
Thanks for the unbiased review. I like the option of bearings or washers on the pivot. Not a big fan of bearing pivots in heavy duty work knife. To much room for contamination when working in a dirty environment. Do you think the slight side play or the ability to force the locking bar over is because the pivot isn’t supported enough?
ratride1 Anytime, man. I enjoy looking knives over and being able to give feedback to you guys. I definitely agree about the bearings. If you’re getting dusty and dirty, those have a higher chance of causing you issue. I’m not sure what the play comes from. I would say it’s the softer Teflon, but you saw the same play on bearings and there was even side to side in the open position with the bearings.
@@Alumapro23 I don't know man I last job I did had alot of sand and it gumed up my 21 to the point it wouldn't open. Carried my zt 392 and it felt gritty but it would still work.
Alex Jones did nothing wrong Different knives with different tolerances. ZT’s tolerances aren’t nearly close to CRK’s. That’s the reason Glocks can survive a nuclear war and 1911’s jam up if the ammo isn’t right 😂😂😂.
I would say it depends on your style. The CRK’s are more of a dressy knife. Striders are more of a pure tool knife. Hinderers are somewhere on the middle. I’d go CRK just because I prefer them to Hinderers and I’ve had some great warranty experiences with them lately. You already know I’d take a Strider over a Hinderer.
Glenn056 Definitely true. I don’t love any knife enough to put another $100-$200 into it for a regrind though. Then there is worry if the person overheated the blade and ruined the temper. It’s just not an option I’d consider for a variety of reasons.
@@mforrest1508 That guy is an armchair reviewer. It's clear he isn't mechanically inclined. And he talks out of his rear. That said, to each their own.
Matt F he doesn’t review knives really, I mean he kind of does... but any weakness in mechanical design or issues with actual use... not really. Nylon/ Teflon washers are great. Bob Terzula thinks they are superior and I agree. If you cut an apple and get juice in the pivot you rinse it out and your good, bronze washers you need to relube. I don’t understand why people are so adamant about thinking they suck. They obviously don’t use the knives...
I'm not much on long reviews but I was interested in the Hinderers appeal and if the price is justified. You used the time wisely. I was unimpressed by the overall looseness of the knife.It appears to not be built to close tolerances or the robust quality may require some play in certain areas, what is your opinion, if you have time to reply? My problem with a "work" knife i.e.Hinderers and Striders is the weight. The appeal to me at the prices that they charge is mitigated by poor tolerances. Your review is the most detailed I have read on Hinderers. Also I have watched one of your Strider reviews which you obviously favor and I did not detect a tolerance issue with them. The two afore mentioned knives I guess leave me curious as to why they hold such a high appeal to so many, thots? Thanks for your review and your time, Furbs.
Old Fool I plan on doing a head to head with the SnG and the non flipper in the next 2 weeks. It won’t be short. I try to get these videos out, but with thorough info and it does make them run longer than I typically like to. As far as weight, tolerance, and preference. Man, this is a time where I wish there was a voice recording feature on here like on Instagram 😂😂😂😂. I cannot really speak to weight. I carry a gun, mag, light, and usually 2 knives. Weight means little to me. I usually strap my sheath on for my Strider and I only know it’s on my belt if I bump it. With all that said, I’ve already done some research for the comparison vid. The non flipper Hinderer is 5.3oz and the aluminum scale SnG fatty is 4.5oz. A Paramilitary 2, the default comparison knife it seems, is 3.75oz. Directly comparing my fatty to my non flipper, I do believe the fatty has better tolerances. Again, I’ve had this argument with my buddies. I have one buddy that’s after the mechanically perfect knife. I’m not. I want a functional tool with what I call “hidden value” that I’ll get into later and I think will answer your question more about are they worth it. Back to tolerances though. It is hard to say across the board because this is the only Hinderer I’ve handled in 2-3 years and I’ve handled tons of Striders. So, my sample size is limited. One of my friends handled a ton of Hinderers at BLADE and didn’t stop until he found one that was “perfect” (no such thing with man made items). So, I do not know if the knives vary because of their hand fit nature, CNC tool wear, or something else, but there does seem to be variance from knife to knife. A notable amount. I have not noted this from one Strider to the next. They are all pretty consistent with a dud here and there. It is interested with the Hinderers though. They use some very high end equipment and have a solid QC process. I do not know if this is a product of upping production, having so many models in production, or what. Preference. I touched on this a bit in one of my comments just a few minutes ago. I cannot put my finger on it, but if I had to make a guess, it is the fact that Hinderers (in my opinion) focus on looks and all that stuff first and being a flat out tool second. Strider has always been about being a tool first and looks second. Their motto is even high speed tools for hardcore individuals. That says it all, in and of itself. Value. This is where people have to make their own decision. Both companies have made knives for 30ish years. Nobody stays in business that long and does well putting out junk. So, I think it’s pretty safe to say that the knives are plenty good to serve as reliable tools. This is the part that gets me to spend extra money on knives like these and sadly, these aren’t even expensive knives in the market anymore. $800 Grimsmos and Holt Specters are the norm now. But I digress. If I spend $200 on a Spyderco Shaman that is pretty close in general shape and function to an SnG, I may or may not get it fixed when I send it in. I’m definitely not getting something like a reblade. Strider has a firm, no reblade policy. If I go ahead and spend the $400 on an SnG, I send it in when whatever goes wrong, and they fix it for $25. That’s the value that cannot be seen by holding the physical knife in hand. That’s the value that I do not think people take into account. Well, I know they do not. I’ve done and entire video on it and it’s still something I talk about in comments and people immediately are turned off by the raw price. Buying 2 $200 Spydercos is not better than 1 $400 Strider that is still going to have one of the best warranties in the business, while the second Spyderco is still going to have that, we’ll fix it if we feel like it warranty. Just my thoughts and I’m going to do a very detailed head to head on the two knives soon. I’ll definitely add a note to go into detail about “hidden value”. 👊
@@Alumapro23 Thank you for spending the time to explain your views. I physically could not manage everything you carry because of age and crippling surgeries on my back. I have a CC permit but due to low crime in my area rarely carry. I personally have to carry a "light" weight knife because of my clothing preference which again is dictated by health issues. Even when I was healthy I was more of a minimal carry person. I do like good tools that perform their purpose effectively. A good warranty is important to me. I do not like throwing my money away. Good tolerances normally demonstrate a company that wants to produce their best product. I do understand certain products must "move" a little to be effective but not my knives. I think a sloppy knife is a product produced poorly. There are too many effective knives that have "perfect" tolerances i.e. no slop in any direction. Costs in the knife world have gone a little crazy. Our beloved GECs are produced by hand to super good tolerances and are great knives sold at a reasonable price at least when sold by the company (not on the secondary market.) Low prices and good product, it can be done. Thanks again my friend, Furbs.
Old Fool I forgot you’re disabled. I’m not familiar with the particulars and I’m not asking. I’m not one to pry and even so, this is not the forum that I would do that. I wasn’t saying that anyone needs or should carry all I do. I just always preface weight questions with that because an extra 1oz or 2 is literally not going to be felt by me. Especially in a sheath on a belt. That’s also why I prefaced a lot of what I said in the video the way I did. I can point out the things about the object I’m holding, but some of those things for me have no bearing. I’m just demonstrating for the audience and there are other guys out here that care/have a need for those other nuances of the hobby. That’s the interesting part. I think GEC’s are prices well for what you are getting. Others look at it as they cost 2x as much as a Case knife, even at retail. I think the sliding scale of cost/availability has gotten so large that a $50 knife to one person is expensive when I can get a $15 flea market knife easier and a $400 knife is expensive when the next guy is out buying a $900 CNC’d midtech and that’s not even getting into the customs. The range of price along with what’s readily available seems to have grown exponentially since I got into the hobby. I don’t disagree with tolerance. I usually tell people that want the “perfect”production knife to look no farther than CRK. Save the headache, time, and money. Just buy it and don’t even think about it. Super tight tolerances, long company history, and one of the few companies that will even make your knife pretty again after you mess it up. VERY hard to beat that, especially when you consider that you can pick one up on the secondary for $300-$350 with pretty regular ease. I just got an Mnandi Friday for $285. With all of that said, I have a video to put out about how “perfect” their tolerances are too. They did a great job and jumped right on the problem, but they put out, and a vendor subsequently sold, a knife that was literally unuseable out of the box. I’ve NEVERD had that happen and I’ve owned $1450 knives all the way down to free giveaway with purchase knives. I will say that the issue was partially due to the super tight tolerances, but you still could barely open and close the knife as is shrieked one of the most awful sounds you ever heard from a knife. Video to come though. All of that being said (and I remember us taking about your use and ability now) I’d pass on all of them. Hinderer, CRK, Strider, Emerson, the whole lot. They’re knives that really shine when you can put them to task. If you do not have any uses that will cause that, you’ll never get their full potential out of them. Maybe the CRK because people like to hold them and admire them, but that’s about it. I don’t think that’s worth $400 to you because I know you said your income was fixed. Have a great and restful Sunday, my friend 👊
@@Alumapro23 Thank you again for an insightful reply. I think the appeal of those knives probably lie in the fact that so many people praise them and they are the "thing" to have. I believe you nailed it that I would have no use for either the Strider or Hinderer. I better stick to GECs and Spyderco with a few Benchmade thrown in. I still enjoy your videos even if the particular knives are not for me. Again thank you for your in depth replies and your videos, Furbs.
Old Fool Always, buddy. I do this for the sharing of information, both ways. I’ve got a mess of mass production knives coming back my way. I also just picked up a Super Freek for a steal. Even though I do not support Benchmade at all. I’d LOVE to buy some more GEC’s, but all the patterns they’re putting out have zero appeal to me. Their new business model (and I knew this would happen) also has patterns trickling out of the factory. So, it’s taking forever to get to new stuff. I really thought the 29 was going to be my next knife. I was all set to buy 4-5 of them in different covers. IF it was going to be the splitback I had heard it was. Turns out it’s a 3 spring knife 👎. Ring Bill for me and tell him to put out some less niche stuff and put out some more cool stuff 😂😂😂👊
Just seen this video. I've been watching your channel. Was just wondering if you ate willing to sell your nonflipper. If you would please let me know yes or no.
Bonzer Wolf Hahaha! Nah, this one will be kept around. I don’t love it, but something tells me it’ll be one of those that you don’t miss until it’s gone 😂
I sold my last hinderer knife for the spinning pivot and how easy it loosened and I was really hoping it was fixed with the gen 6 but I guess it isnt, seriously an overpriced knife
alwaysprepared247 There was no loctite and I did document that. I know people always talk about things, but rarely show them and that breeds skepticism, but it’s documented here. Quick fix, but shouldn’t have to be a fix.
@@Damen0530 for the money, I did want more. I like the steel, I like how it felt solid in my hand. I don't like the many types of screws used, it is not easy to field change as they claim, a spanner is needed. The action was not smooth. I had the frame lock getting really stuck on the blade. U can't buy a replacement blade. There was some lateral blade play. I could not open it with the thumb studs with my thumb, not a huge deal but the detente was very stiff. Hope that helps some. I read through hundreds of comments and really tried to learn about they knife before making my decision to return it.
Brandon Talley I appreciate your feedback, I've been on the fence about either the CRK Sebenza 21 or the Hinderer non- flipper. You definelty helped my decision...thanks.
How long did it take to get that action on nylon? 1 month? I just got a 3.5 non flipper and am trying to achieve the same you show. I'm wondering if the working finish on my blade will make a difference..
The male and female pivot components can rotate freely in the handle in all generations. This is independent from the tightening/loosening of the actual screw. Reason I mentioned this, rotating the whole pivot assembly can mess with centering on these Gen 6s (in addition to loosening/tightening the screw). None of my Gen 5s or 6s have blade play, but I do have centering issues with the newer Gen 6s on Teflon or PB Washers. Lockbar "push" just shows that the lock wasn't cut properly. Less room for error with a steel insert. Regarding Geometry, I usually reprofile to 20* per side on the Hinderers. Great review as aways. Enjoyed it.
Man this is a great video. Very rarely do we get someone who uses knives like they’re meant, and speaks clearly, with thoughts and information about the knife and all its weak points and strong points. Damn good review.
Thank you, sir. I appreciate the compliment. 🙏👊
Great video. I love mine, got the blue G10. I found that before dissamebly I put a piece of masking tape on all the female screw barrels, including the female side of the pivot. It makes it a whole lot easier when putting the knife back together. Everything will stay put. These are fantastic knives.
Michael Mostardi Thanks, man. Great tip! 👊
My 3.5 Non flipper is my favorite Hinderer too. It’s my go to “I know I’m going to do some stupid shit today” hard use folder.
ARCHMAN The nonflipper is definitely my favorite XM 👊
Hinderer knives are so good looking. Every time I see a pic or a video of one, I’m tempted to buy one. One day I’m definitely going to have to get one. But if I get one, I may want more haha!
Joseph A Hahaha! I wish I felt the same. This is my 5th or 6th Hinderer and I’m still not giddy about them. This one is cool, but it doesn’t make me feel warm and fuzzy 😂😂😂. I can’t put my finger on it, but I don’t know. Sometimes I think it is a looks thing, but more of the fact that it seems like Hinderers are more about changing hardware and all that stuff than flat out utility.
I had 2 Gen 6 Non Flippers and had similar issues with them. I held on to them for a good while because I’m a huge Hinderer Knives fan but ended up selling them. I haven’t gotten many Hinderer in the last 3 years because I liked the old Teflon pivot system. It’s to much going on in the Gen 6 if you switch it out to BP or Teflon like a big washer sandwich lol. I’m saying all this because I just ordered the 3” Gen 6 Non flipper and I’m going to try it again. Hopefully it won’t have any issues...
Yeah, there are just too many variables. I commend him for taking on the challenge to give people what they want, while still sticking to his stance on Teflon, but it’s just too tall of an order to be done reliably well.
I added a little pressure to my lock bar. Felt loose and floppy. But I felt more confident. And the lock was top notch. I beat the living shit out of it. Tried to get it to fail. It was perfect
Matthew Forrest Yeah, I don’t think it’s weak at all. Just showing how it came from the factory.
Alchemy_1 mine was a last generation. But I was very impressed with the nylon washers.. 👍 wouldn’t have changed a thing
I received my new hinderer eklipse harpoon tanto 2 weeks ago. It’s a great looking knife. I can’t decide if I like the phosphorus bronze washers or the bearings more. I keep swapping between the two and I like them both.
Another great video My Friend 👍🏻
I’m back in the hinderer loop myself since I just pulled the trigger on a Skinny slicer 18 3.5 .
Btw I’ve found blue loctite always must be used after disassembling most Hinderers and sometimes even without breaking them down since they will come loose if you don’t loctite the pivot screw.
The Factor Thanks, man. The loctite thing sucks. I am not a fan of loctite.
Alchemy_1
Another option is plumbers tape . You just make one loop or so around the threads on the pivot screw.
The Factor I don’t think knives in this price bracket should need Teflon tape or loctite. Especially when he’s machining all the hardware in house. It should be of the utmost quality.
Alchemy_1
I totally get it and understand. I also think it has to do with the weight of the blade and how solid lock up is when it slams open . Then add bearings so it flys open and shut with Authority . I just put very little loctite on the first few threads and never had one back off . I know what your saying though but for me the knife excels in every other area and it such a easy remedy I don’t mind .
Love your channel man. Just subscribed. I’m an appliance service technician and have been looking for the perfect folding knife forever and a day. I think it’s a lost cause just like the perfect do all rifle idea. Anyways, keep up the good videos. Cheers.
Derek Cb Hahaha! I agree. It’s fun to talk about, it’s fun to have a mission, and it’s fun to dream, but practically, it’s not going to happen. 😂👊
Alchemy_1 It is a whole lot of fun to try though.
Derek Cb 😂💯
I am a thumbstud guy. I would sure like to get one, with black G10 or CF show side scale.
Robert M I’d buy whatever you can and change the scale. This was a short run and they are drying up.
I fell for the non flippers in generation 4 when the flipper action on the flippers was poor. I still think the non-flippers are the way to go even in gen. 6.
John J. Baranski I 100% prefer these over the flipper. I don’t love the non flipper, but this knife at least makes me want to keep it, a bit.
I wonder if they tune the detents differently on the flippers vs. the non-flippers. My new XM-18 Gen. 6 flipper has such a strong detent if it were not for the flipper tab I would not be able to open it at all unless 2 handed like a slip joint. No way I can snap or sweep it open with the studs. I also has no side play open or closed.
Rick said, I believe in the video where the nonflippers were debuted, that they are tuned differently. I could be wrong on the video, but that seems right and I know it was him in one of their videos dedicated to the gen 6 XM’s.
Thanks for the unbiased review. I like the option of bearings or washers on the pivot. Not a big fan of bearing pivots in heavy duty work knife. To much room for contamination when working in a dirty environment. Do you think the slight side play or the ability to force the locking bar over is because the pivot isn’t supported enough?
ratride1 Anytime, man. I enjoy looking knives over and being able to give feedback to you guys.
I definitely agree about the bearings. If you’re getting dusty and dirty, those have a higher chance of causing you issue. I’m not sure what the play comes from. I would say it’s the softer Teflon, but you saw the same play on bearings and there was even side to side in the open position with the bearings.
@@Alumapro23 I don't know man I last job I did had alot of sand and it gumed up my 21 to the point it wouldn't open. Carried my zt 392 and it felt gritty but it would still work.
Alex Jones did nothing wrong Different knives with different tolerances. ZT’s tolerances aren’t nearly close to CRK’s. That’s the reason Glocks can survive a nuclear war and 1911’s jam up if the ammo isn’t right 😂😂😂.
@@Alumapro23 that's a good point.
Sweet! Thanks for the video
Babak P Thanks, man 👊
Alchemy_1 👊🏼
Update video?
I need to get to it. I don’t think it’s going to be a long video 😂😂😂
@@Alumapro23 😭😭😭😭😭
For your first high end blade would,you go this knife or a CRK Sebenza 21?....also great detailed review.
sebenza 21 first. then this.
John J. Baranski appreciate the reply, but why CRK first?
I would say it depends on your style. The CRK’s are more of a dressy knife. Striders are more of a pure tool knife. Hinderers are somewhere on the middle. I’d go CRK just because I prefer them to Hinderers and I’ve had some great warranty experiences with them lately. You already know I’d take a Strider over a Hinderer.
Alchemy_1 Got it...thanks!
R A Nothing wrong with that and a lot of common opinion there. I haven’t heard anyone say they haven’t been able to get in touch with Hinderer though.
Wow really amazing looking knife design!!! :D
Great video sir!
baddnewsedit Thank you, sir. 👊
You could send it for a regrind and Hinderer still wouldn't void the warranty
Glenn056 Definitely true. I don’t love any knife enough to put another $100-$200 into it for a regrind though. Then there is worry if the person overheated the blade and ruined the temper. It’s just not an option I’d consider for a variety of reasons.
Nice vid Alchemy! Hey interested in selling that xm18? I would love to buy it from you. Just haven't been able to get my hands on one.
Israel Ducoing Thanks, man, but I’m going to hold onto it for now. 👊
Nice video. Thanks. 👊👍
Rick Temmen Thanks, man 👊
3.5" non flippers are pretty much sold out. 060420 - thanks for the video !
Thank you for the comment 👊
Sweet video
Thank you for the kind words 🙏👊
The non flipper is sooooo much better than the regular xm-18. Imo of course
I’m just not an XM guy, but I agree. If I had to pick flipper vs non flipper, that’s an easy choice.
Just wondering, why would you want Teflon washers!
smoothness
TheJagermeister917 Self lubrication, no chance of damage from pinching, resistant to chemicals, they’re smoother, etc.
Make a lot of sense in a knife, don’t beleive nick shabazz. Teflon is great. And very strong
@@mforrest1508 That guy is an armchair reviewer. It's clear he isn't mechanically inclined. And he talks out of his rear. That said, to each their own.
Matt F he doesn’t review knives really, I mean he kind of does... but any weakness in mechanical design or issues with actual use... not really. Nylon/ Teflon washers are great. Bob Terzula thinks they are superior and I agree. If you cut an apple and get juice in the pivot you rinse it out and your good, bronze washers you need to relube. I don’t understand why people are so adamant about thinking they suck. They obviously don’t use the knives...
I'm not much on long reviews but I was interested in the Hinderers appeal and if the price is justified. You used the time wisely. I was unimpressed by the overall looseness of the knife.It appears to not be built to close tolerances or the robust quality may require some play in certain areas, what is your opinion, if you have time to reply? My problem with a "work" knife i.e.Hinderers and Striders is the weight. The appeal to me at the prices that they charge is mitigated by poor tolerances. Your review is the most detailed I have read on Hinderers. Also I have watched one of your Strider reviews which you obviously favor and I did not detect a tolerance issue with them. The two afore mentioned knives I guess leave me curious as to why they hold such a high appeal to so many, thots? Thanks for your review and your time, Furbs.
Old Fool I plan on doing a head to head with the SnG and the non flipper in the next 2 weeks. It won’t be short. I try to get these videos out, but with thorough info and it does make them run longer than I typically like to.
As far as weight, tolerance, and preference. Man, this is a time where I wish there was a voice recording feature on here like on Instagram 😂😂😂😂. I cannot really speak to weight. I carry a gun, mag, light, and usually 2 knives. Weight means little to me. I usually strap my sheath on for my Strider and I only know it’s on my belt if I bump it. With all that said, I’ve already done some research for the comparison vid. The non flipper Hinderer is 5.3oz and the aluminum scale SnG fatty is 4.5oz. A Paramilitary 2, the default comparison knife it seems, is 3.75oz.
Directly comparing my fatty to my non flipper, I do believe the fatty has better tolerances. Again, I’ve had this argument with my buddies. I have one buddy that’s after the mechanically perfect knife. I’m not. I want a functional tool with what I call “hidden value” that I’ll get into later and I think will answer your question more about are they worth it. Back to tolerances though. It is hard to say across the board because this is the only Hinderer I’ve handled in 2-3 years and I’ve handled tons of Striders. So, my sample size is limited. One of my friends handled a ton of Hinderers at BLADE and didn’t stop until he found one that was “perfect” (no such thing with man made items). So, I do not know if the knives vary because of their hand fit nature, CNC tool wear, or something else, but there does seem to be variance from knife to knife. A notable amount. I have not noted this from one Strider to the next. They are all pretty consistent with a dud here and there. It is interested with the Hinderers though. They use some very high end equipment and have a solid QC process. I do not know if this is a product of upping production, having so many models in production, or what.
Preference. I touched on this a bit in one of my comments just a few minutes ago. I cannot put my finger on it, but if I had to make a guess, it is the fact that Hinderers (in my opinion) focus on looks and all that stuff first and being a flat out tool second. Strider has always been about being a tool first and looks second. Their motto is even high speed tools for hardcore individuals. That says it all, in and of itself.
Value. This is where people have to make their own decision. Both companies have made knives for 30ish years. Nobody stays in business that long and does well putting out junk. So, I think it’s pretty safe to say that the knives are plenty good to serve as reliable tools. This is the part that gets me to spend extra money on knives like these and sadly, these aren’t even expensive knives in the market anymore. $800 Grimsmos and Holt Specters are the norm now. But I digress. If I spend $200 on a Spyderco Shaman that is pretty close in general shape and function to an SnG, I may or may not get it fixed when I send it in. I’m definitely not getting something like a reblade. Strider has a firm, no reblade policy. If I go ahead and spend the $400 on an SnG, I send it in when whatever goes wrong, and they fix it for $25. That’s the value that cannot be seen by holding the physical knife in hand. That’s the value that I do not think people take into account. Well, I know they do not. I’ve done and entire video on it and it’s still something I talk about in comments and people immediately are turned off by the raw price. Buying 2 $200 Spydercos is not better than 1 $400 Strider that is still going to have one of the best warranties in the business, while the second Spyderco is still going to have that, we’ll fix it if we feel like it warranty.
Just my thoughts and I’m going to do a very detailed head to head on the two knives soon. I’ll definitely add a note to go into detail about “hidden value”.
👊
@@Alumapro23 Thank you for spending the time to explain your views. I physically could not manage everything you carry because of age and crippling surgeries on my back. I have a CC permit but due to low crime in my area rarely carry. I personally have to carry a "light" weight knife because of my clothing preference which again is dictated by health issues. Even when I was healthy I was more of a minimal carry person. I do like good tools that perform their purpose effectively. A good warranty is important to me. I do not like throwing my money away. Good tolerances normally demonstrate a company that wants to produce their best product. I do understand certain products must "move" a little to be effective but not my knives. I think a sloppy knife is a product produced poorly. There are too many effective knives that have "perfect" tolerances i.e. no slop in any direction.
Costs in the knife world have gone a little crazy. Our beloved GECs are produced by hand to super good tolerances and are great knives sold at a reasonable price at least when sold by the company (not on the secondary market.) Low prices and good product, it can be done. Thanks again my friend, Furbs.
Old Fool I forgot you’re disabled. I’m not familiar with the particulars and I’m not asking. I’m not one to pry and even so, this is not the forum that I would do that. I wasn’t saying that anyone needs or should carry all I do. I just always preface weight questions with that because an extra 1oz or 2 is literally not going to be felt by me. Especially in a sheath on a belt. That’s also why I prefaced a lot of what I said in the video the way I did. I can point out the things about the object I’m holding, but some of those things for me have no bearing. I’m just demonstrating for the audience and there are other guys out here that care/have a need for those other nuances of the hobby.
That’s the interesting part. I think GEC’s are prices well for what you are getting. Others look at it as they cost 2x as much as a Case knife, even at retail. I think the sliding scale of cost/availability has gotten so large that a $50 knife to one person is expensive when I can get a $15 flea market knife easier and a $400 knife is expensive when the next guy is out buying a $900 CNC’d midtech and that’s not even getting into the customs. The range of price along with what’s readily available seems to have grown exponentially since I got into the hobby.
I don’t disagree with tolerance. I usually tell people that want the “perfect”production knife to look no farther than CRK. Save the headache, time, and money. Just buy it and don’t even think about it. Super tight tolerances, long company history, and one of the few companies that will even make your knife pretty again after you mess it up. VERY hard to beat that, especially when you consider that you can pick one up on the secondary for $300-$350 with pretty regular ease. I just got an Mnandi Friday for $285.
With all of that said, I have a video to put out about how “perfect” their tolerances are too. They did a great job and jumped right on the problem, but they put out, and a vendor subsequently sold, a knife that was literally unuseable out of the box. I’ve NEVERD had that happen and I’ve owned $1450 knives all the way down to free giveaway with purchase knives. I will say that the issue was partially due to the super tight tolerances, but you still could barely open and close the knife as is shrieked one of the most awful sounds you ever heard from a knife. Video to come though.
All of that being said (and I remember us taking about your use and ability now) I’d pass on all of them. Hinderer, CRK, Strider, Emerson, the whole lot. They’re knives that really shine when you can put them to task. If you do not have any uses that will cause that, you’ll never get their full potential out of them. Maybe the CRK because people like to hold them and admire them, but that’s about it. I don’t think that’s worth $400 to you because I know you said your income was fixed.
Have a great and restful Sunday, my friend 👊
@@Alumapro23 Thank you again for an insightful reply. I think the appeal of those knives probably lie in the fact that so many people praise them and they are the "thing" to have. I believe you nailed it that I would have no use for either the Strider or Hinderer. I better stick to GECs and Spyderco with a few Benchmade thrown in. I still enjoy your videos even if the particular knives are not for me. Again thank you for your in depth replies and your videos, Furbs.
Old Fool Always, buddy. I do this for the sharing of information, both ways. I’ve got a mess of mass production knives coming back my way. I also just picked up a Super Freek for a steal. Even though I do not support Benchmade at all. I’d LOVE to buy some more GEC’s, but all the patterns they’re putting out have zero appeal to me. Their new business model (and I knew this would happen) also has patterns trickling out of the factory. So, it’s taking forever to get to new stuff. I really thought the 29 was going to be my next knife. I was all set to buy 4-5 of them in different covers. IF it was going to be the splitback I had heard it was. Turns out it’s a 3 spring knife 👎. Ring Bill for me and tell him to put out some less niche stuff and put out some more cool stuff 😂😂😂👊
Now for 120$ worth of bronze hardwear...
Just seen this video. I've been watching your channel. Was just wondering if you ate willing to sell your nonflipper. If you would please let me know yes or no.
Sorry, man. It’s sold.
That one has Texas written all over it 🤣 #patience
Bonzer Wolf Hahaha! Nah, this one will be kept around. I don’t love it, but something tells me it’ll be one of those that you don’t miss until it’s gone 😂
I sold my last hinderer knife for the spinning pivot and how easy it loosened and I was really hoping it was fixed with the gen 6 but I guess it isnt, seriously an overpriced knife
alwaysprepared247 There was no loctite and I did document that. I know people always talk about things, but rarely show them and that breeds skepticism, but it’s documented here. Quick fix, but shouldn’t have to be a fix.
@@Alumapro23 yeah that's my take as well, shouldnt have to be a fix especially on a knife of this caliber
I just got the gen 6 flipper, and returned it. It sucked. Action was terrible. Terrible value. I expected more for such an expensive knife.
Brandon Talley I was on the fence about this knife, it was really that much of a disappointment ?
@@Damen0530 for the money, I did want more. I like the steel, I like how it felt solid in my hand. I don't like the many types of screws used, it is not easy to field change as they claim, a spanner is needed. The action was not smooth. I had the frame lock getting really stuck on the blade. U can't buy a replacement blade. There was some lateral blade play. I could not open it with the thumb studs with my thumb, not a huge deal but the detente was very stiff. Hope that helps some. I read through hundreds of comments and really tried to learn about they knife before making my decision to return it.
Brandon Talley I appreciate your feedback, I've been on the fence about either the CRK Sebenza 21 or the Hinderer non- flipper. You definelty helped my decision...thanks.
How long did it take to get that action on nylon? 1 month? I just got a 3.5 non flipper and am trying to achieve the same you show. I'm wondering if the working finish on my blade will make a difference..