Smith & Wesson owes you guys a lifelong debt of gratitude, respect & appreciation! Thanks in large part to you guys I have one of the most bad ass full size no safety .40/.357 M&P 1.0’s on Earth and I can’t wait to build my 2.0 .40/.357 soon. Good speed Apex Tactical! 🙏🙏🇺🇸🇺🇸
Excellent video and excellent trigger. Just purchased a S&W M&P 9mm v1.0 w/ Trijicon tritium sites brand new off the shelf for $279. Purchased the Apex trigger set, and now I have a perfect S&W M&P 9mm for less than $500. The trigger made all of the difference. Thank you Apex!
My older M&P 9L [2009] needed a sear block [for the 1/8th spring and plunger] and this modification above. Works great, videos were very helpful. Thank you
This video saved my butt. Installed an Aluminum trigger with all other factory parts and my Shield was just shy of clearing the plunger to allow the striker to fire. A small tweak to the loop was all it took to restore life to the pistol from being a goofy little non-functional toy. Now to bring it to the range to fully test its newfound capabilities...
Apex stated in an earlier post that if you think you may have opened the loop too far, to close the loop to the thickness of their business card and start from there . Anyone have an idea what that thickness would be using a feeler gauge ? Thanks
So, I have one of these installed in my M&P, and, I will occasionally get the dead trigger, which means I need to open the loop up. My question is, what happens if the loop is opened TOO much? Right now, dry firing, it resets every time, but, live firing I get a dead trigger maybe every 3rd round or so. I', just concerned that, if I open it too much, I will run into issues. Thanks.
from what i read in the smith forums, apex has released a new version of their USB(striker block) so that you won't run into the timing issue causing light primer strikes.
Is the trigger bar adjustment required for the installation of the forward set sear and trigger kit because i saw another video from you all and it wasn't mentioned there
hi..thanks for the video......trying to understand the funtion of the loop .....what would closing the loop do to the funtion of the trigger ....ie pull weight ..wall break ...travel....thx
The loop acts like a ramp to push up the front of the sear. Making the loop bigger pushes the sear up farther and sooner in the stroke. Making the loop smaller does the opposite. Adjusting the loop is really just meant for compensation for wear and manufacturing tolerances rather than changing trigger behavior. The loop was replaced with a sear actuator in the 2.0 which is a much better design IMO.
Just bought the aek trigger shoe....gonna put in tomorrow. I was wondering does the dead trigger vary from pistol to pistol or have you guys figured out the demensions on the aek trigger by now to work without having to time the trigger bar? Ive got a gen1.
@@triggersnob9722 i did the install...havent shot it yet...(time and finding places to shoot). But all the function checks passed. I think it will be fine.
WARNING!!!!!! If your M&P9 has a safety, BE CAREFUL when doing this mod. I speak from experience. if you raise the loop too high, you will decrease the trigger travel enough that when you pull the trigger rearward and hard enough, the gun will fire even with the safety on. SO...if you do this mod, test the trigger pull to be sure that with the safety engaged, your gun will not fire. If it does, you'll need to push the loop downward to correct this. BE SAFE!!!!!
No; I did install the APEX sear. And you're right about me opening the loop too far. The point of my reply was to alert people that the loop can be opened to the point that it will drop the sear even with the safety on. So, I was merely letting people know that you can over do it, and to be careful.
Thanks for posting this video. I do have a question. Has anyone (including APEX) installed the AEK, function checked the pistol and the hammer dropped, but after several dry fires or several rounds at the range started experiencing the dead trigger issue? I ask because, it seems to have happened to me. Installed both on a 9c and CORE. The 9c initially function checked fine, but after a 100 rounds at the range (experienced about 3 dead triggers) the dead trigger issue got worse while dry firing. I did adjust this and it seems to have fixed the issue, but I haven't had a chance to get out to the range a second time just yet. The CORE, after dry firing several times, has experienced the same thing. Initially functions fine, but now getting dead trigger almost every other trigger pull. I have not adjusted this yet. Just wanting to see if anyone else has had this happen. If this is normal, might be good for others to note so they aren't surprised when they start to practice only to get the "dead trigger" issue a few hundred pulls of the trigger in.
So this will increase reset right? I'm quite happy with the short reset with thee RAM, hard sear and apex striker block. Increasing the loop makes the reset greater? I have a AEK already but just can't bring myself to mess with that loop.
I have this issue with the trigger shoe in my SD9ve. I can lift the slide up, or even squeeze the grip where the trigger bar is, and it will fire. I have the bright idea to remove some of the trigger shoe off the rear so that it will travel farther. The bottom of the trigger is not hitting the little dimple in the bottom of the trigger guard of the gun that the stock trigger touches. It appears it was manufactured just a little too large. If modifying the apex trigger doesn't work I'll have to go back to the stock trigger :(
In order to close the trigger bar loop, you must first remove the trigger bar from the sear housing block. Using our Apex business card as a shim inside the loop, slowly and carefully apply pressure to the open end of the loop with a pair of flat faced needle nose pliers. If you are still having issues with function, please call our customer service department and we can assist you.
I found that in order to prevent the dead trigger, I needed about three hundredths of an inch of over-travel. I also needed to open the loop to almost twice what was shown here. Did I do something wrong?
.030 on the loop isn't terrible but it's not great. make sure you have the sear with 3 dots in your gun. As long as you do, you are good. Some guns just need additional tuning.
Well I was thinking about getting the APEX FSS&TK but after seeing this and the rest of the comments, that is unlikely. Why would I want to render my firearm unreliable?
I wish I had not bought this APEX trigger. Sure it makes for an awesome trigger... when its working. But it is going to be hard to trust this trigger at all for a long time. If I adjust the loop too much I may get light strikes, not enough and I get dead trigger. The stock trigger was not bad enough to put up with these problems.
Relp Like i said, call apex, they will figure out what you did wrong or what part is out of spec. Either something is out of spec, installed incorrectly or adjusted incorrectly.
Really hope the kit I purchased from ebay isn't an older one that has this issue. Its 160$ kit and this seems like quite the hassle nowhere online in reviews ect did I see people talking about this so hopefully its an isolated issue that's been taken care of(this is going in my carry gun). Little bit weary and disappointed before its even here:/
@@apextactical Thank you for reaching out. I already contacted apex and took it to my dealer i had install the item to take care of everything. Thank you for reaching out though. I love my trigger and i will be purchasing more apex products
breakingcontact Trigger isn't resetting , should have left it stock as it is going to take alot of shooting before I am confident that this isnt going to fail to fire since it only happens once every 15-20 rounds
Kylef7735 I didnt put anything in wrong. There is only one way to put this assembly together or your going to bend or break something. I put in the stock trigger and had no problems at all. i re-installed the Apex FSS&T and I have failure to reset once in 10- 20 rounds. I would adjust like the APEX guy says to... but I can only do so much until it fails to reset. That isnt what I bought this "upgrade" for.
he's checking to see if the over travel of the trigger is sufficient to drop the striker and pickup the striker block. call Customer service for help with this.
Just a little too anal with the feeler guage. It's not neccessary. The loop can be opened up enough to remove 95% of the pre- travel. The trigger bar should only move 1/32" forward before the ramp of the loop contacts the cam on the underneath of the seer.
Before you attempt to modify a weapon you need to have an absolute understanding of that particular weapons mechanics. Anything intermittent is absolutely unacceptable and unsafe. Remember if you bend anything enough it will eventually fracture and lead to a catastrophic failure. You guys are scaring me.
Seven years later and this video still delivers. My trigger bar needed a little coaxing, but it made all the difference!
It is an ongoing battle with the original M&P as tolerances vary over time. Glad it helped.
Smith & Wesson owes you guys a lifelong debt of gratitude, respect & appreciation!
Thanks in large part to you guys I have one of the most bad ass full size no safety .40/.357 M&P 1.0’s on Earth and I can’t wait to build my 2.0 .40/.357 soon.
Good speed Apex Tactical!
🙏🙏🇺🇸🇺🇸
Excellent video and excellent trigger. Just purchased a S&W M&P 9mm v1.0 w/ Trijicon tritium sites brand new off the shelf for $279. Purchased the Apex trigger set, and now I have a perfect S&W M&P 9mm for less than $500. The trigger made all of the difference. Thank you Apex!
My older M&P 9L [2009] needed a sear block [for the 1/8th spring and plunger] and this modification above. Works great, videos were very helpful. Thank you
This video saved my butt. Installed an Aluminum trigger with all other factory parts and my Shield was just shy of clearing the plunger to allow the striker to fire. A small tweak to the loop was all it took to restore life to the pistol from being a goofy little non-functional toy. Now to bring it to the range to fully test its newfound capabilities...
Will you be posting this in HD soon?
Great video. It helped me to get my M&P Shield trigger right where I like it. Great trigger, great assistance.
Very precise instructions, great presentation. Thank you.
Glad it helped.
Apex stated in an earlier post that if you think you may have opened the loop too far, to close the loop to the thickness of their business card and start from there . Anyone have an idea what that thickness would be using a feeler gauge ? Thanks
So, I have one of these installed in my M&P, and, I will occasionally get the dead trigger, which means I need to open the loop up. My question is, what happens if the loop is opened TOO much? Right now, dry firing, it resets every time, but, live firing I get a dead trigger maybe every 3rd round or so. I', just concerned that, if I open it too much, I will run into issues. Thanks.
exactly my problem.. but my trigger goes dead every 10- 20 rounds. I hear if the loop is opened up too much.. you get light strikes.
from what i read in the smith forums, apex has released a new version of their USB(striker block) so that you won't run into the timing issue causing light primer strikes.
khyoon14 do you have a link on this or where to buy?
Is the trigger bar adjustment required for the installation of the forward set sear and trigger kit because i saw another video from you all and it wasn't mentioned there
After installing the apex duty carry kit to my M&P shield. I had some rounds with light strike of the firing pin. Will this adjustment fix that issue?
I put in a Glock #6 trigger.
Does the little shepherd's crook come out of adjustment over time?
hi..thanks for the video......trying to understand the funtion of the loop .....what would closing the loop do to the funtion of the trigger ....ie pull weight ..wall break ...travel....thx
The loop acts like a ramp to push up the front of the sear. Making the loop bigger pushes the sear up farther and sooner in the stroke. Making the loop smaller does the opposite. Adjusting the loop is really just meant for compensation for wear and manufacturing tolerances rather than changing trigger behavior. The loop was replaced with a sear actuator in the 2.0 which is a much better design IMO.
Just bought the aek trigger shoe....gonna put in tomorrow. I was wondering does the dead trigger vary from pistol to pistol or have you guys figured out the demensions on the aek trigger by now to work without having to time the trigger bar? Ive got a gen1.
Did mine myself and have over 1000rds and have not had any issues with any ammo, she eats it all.....
@@triggersnob9722 i did the install...havent shot it yet...(time and finding places to shoot). But all the function checks passed. I think it will be fine.
WARNING!!!!!! If your M&P9 has a safety, BE CAREFUL when doing this mod. I speak from experience. if you raise the loop too high, you will decrease the trigger travel enough that when you pull the trigger rearward and hard enough, the gun will fire even with the safety on. SO...if you do this mod, test the trigger pull to be sure that with the safety engaged, your gun will not fire. If it does, you'll need to push the loop downward to correct this.
BE SAFE!!!!!
Jay, it sounds as if you forgot to install our 3dot sear or you drastically opened the loop much further than necessary.
No; I did install the APEX sear. And you're right about me opening the loop too far. The point of my reply was to alert people that the loop can be opened to the point that it will drop the sear even with the safety on. So, I was merely letting people know that you can over do it, and to be careful.
So your product only works if you heavily modify. Got it
Thanks for posting this video. I do have a question. Has anyone (including APEX) installed the AEK, function checked the pistol and the hammer dropped, but after several dry fires or several rounds at the range started experiencing the dead trigger issue?
I ask because, it seems to have happened to me. Installed both on a 9c and CORE. The 9c initially function checked fine, but after a 100 rounds at the range (experienced about 3 dead triggers) the dead trigger issue got worse while dry firing. I did adjust this and it seems to have fixed the issue, but I haven't had a chance to get out to the range a second time just yet.
The CORE, after dry firing several times, has experienced the same thing. Initially functions fine, but now getting dead trigger almost every other trigger pull. I have not adjusted this yet.
Just wanting to see if anyone else has had this happen. If this is normal, might be good for others to note so they aren't surprised when they start to practice only to get the "dead trigger" issue a few hundred pulls of the trigger in.
So this will increase reset right? I'm quite happy with the short reset with thee RAM, hard sear and apex striker block. Increasing the loop makes the reset greater? I have a AEK already but just can't bring myself to mess with that loop.
Where do you guys get your hammers ?????
nice video. learning more about your stuff. what barrel is that?
Robert Walters check out StormLake match barrels
I have this issue with the trigger shoe in my SD9ve. I can lift the slide up, or even squeeze the grip where the trigger bar is, and it will fire. I have the bright idea to remove some of the trigger shoe off the rear so that it will travel farther. The bottom of the trigger is not hitting the little dimple in the bottom of the trigger guard of the gun that the stock trigger touches. It appears it was manufactured just a little too large. If modifying the apex trigger doesn't work I'll have to go back to the stock trigger :(
Just contact our customer service at 623-322-0200 and they will assist you in troubleshooting the issue. It's probably something very simple.
What is the best way to close the loop if I opened it to far without damaging the trigger bar?
In order to close the trigger bar loop, you must first remove the trigger bar from the sear housing block. Using our Apex business card as a shim inside the loop, slowly and carefully apply pressure to the open end of the loop with a pair of flat faced needle nose pliers. If you are still having issues with function, please call our customer service department and we can assist you.
+apextactical I don't know the thickness of your business card. Can you tell me the starting thickness using a feeler gauge. Thanks
John Jackson in the video they used 16 thousandths
I found that in order to prevent the dead trigger, I needed about three hundredths of an inch of over-travel. I also needed to open the loop to almost twice what was shown here. Did I do something wrong?
.030 on the loop isn't terrible but it's not great. make sure you have the sear with 3 dots in your gun. As long as you do, you are good. Some guns just need additional tuning.
So, if I am getting light primer strikes should I open or close the gap on the candy cane
Contact our customer service at 623-322-0200 and they can assist you in getting the trigger bar loop dialed in properly.
Well I was thinking about getting the APEX FSS&TK but after seeing this and the rest of the comments, that is unlikely. Why would I want to render my firearm unreliable?
As with anything, Including stock parts. If you do it wrong it isnt going to work.
I wish I had not bought this APEX trigger. Sure it makes for an awesome trigger... when its working. But it is going to be hard to trust this trigger at all for a long time. If I adjust the loop too much I may get light strikes, not enough and I get dead trigger. The stock trigger was not bad enough to put up with these problems.
Relp Like i said, call apex, they will figure out what you did wrong or what part is out of spec.
Either something is out of spec, installed incorrectly or adjusted incorrectly.
I know what the problem is. Not the installation. The apex trigger doesn't work well with the sear block that has the small detent and spring.
Like I said .. too much trouble to worth the bother
Really hope the kit I purchased from ebay isn't an older one that has this issue. Its 160$ kit and this seems like quite the hassle nowhere online in reviews ect did I see people talking about this so hopefully its an isolated issue that's been taken care of(this is going in my carry gun). Little bit weary and disappointed before its even here:/
Thank You! I think that might be the problem with my m&p 45. When I fire it the trigger is not resetting for the next shot.
update me if this fixed your issue. Im having the same issue on my 9 with the flatty from apex
@@CokeMk7
Will do!
@@CokeMk7 Just contact our customer service and they will help you troubleshoot the issue. In the vast majority of cases it is a simple fix.
@@apextactical Thank you for reaching out. I already contacted apex and took it to my dealer i had install the item to take care of everything. Thank you for reaching out though. I love my trigger and i will be purchasing more apex products
Will this fix light strikes? I'm getting about 1 light strike every 15 -20 rounds with quality ammo
Try cleaning your striker channel.
Striker channel is clean . The trigger is failing to reset.
breakingcontact
Trigger isn't resetting , should have left it stock as it is going to take alot of shooting before I am confident that this isnt going to fail to fire since it only happens once every 15-20 rounds
Relp You have done something incorrectly, Call apex and they will walk you through getting it working.
Kylef7735
I didnt put anything in wrong. There is only one way to put this assembly together or your going to bend or break something. I put in the stock trigger and had no problems at all. i re-installed the Apex FSS&T and I have failure to reset once in 10- 20 rounds. I would adjust like the APEX guy says to... but I can only do so much until it fails to reset. That isnt what I bought this "upgrade" for.
im not sure I understand what hes feeling for to know whether he should open it up more
he's checking to see if the over travel of the trigger is sufficient to drop the striker and pickup the striker block. call Customer service for help with this.
Have they fixed the loop problem yet?
smokeclouds8 nope.
So grainy you can't see what is being done.
Why do you shave your arms and hands?
😂
Darn your 👍 good.
Just a little too anal with the feeler guage. It's not neccessary. The loop can be opened up enough to remove 95% of the pre- travel. The trigger bar should only move 1/32" forward before the ramp of the loop contacts the cam on the underneath of the seer.
Before you attempt to modify a weapon you need to have an absolute understanding of that particular weapons mechanics. Anything intermittent is absolutely unacceptable and unsafe. Remember if you bend anything enough it will eventually fracture and lead to a catastrophic failure. You guys are scaring me.
Don't be frightened!