Thanks for the great tips. I am desperate for a solution like this (warmth and a neighborhood of untrained dogs barking night and day) but I will need to have some rooms with frames that can be easily removed (especially in the summer) so I'll have to think of something other than screws for quick release. I especially thank you for the tip on weak magnetic strips since that was what I was about to employ. Cheers.
Hey John, thanks for taking the time to do this video, im in Tugun QLD next to the airport and cars bikes birds planes are giving me the shits, so i got a quote for double glazed windows in my bedroom 1800 x 1200 and they want $3150.00 supply only ,So thats not happening i then went to bunnings and bought Sunlite 8mm Multiwall poly sheets and pushed them onto my window frames neat fit no foam not secured yet as this is a trial and ive recorded a sound drop of 2 db Very Disappointed it has however been a good thermal barrier , so is it that the product ive used is to thin in wall thickness guessing its like 1mm x 2 fluted poly thinking the 4.5 mm poly offers more resistance to vibration and the 50mm gap between it and the window with the foam might be the secret , cheers Dave..
Hate to be 'that' guy, but I think screwing the sheets in isn't legal due to fire escape reasons. I think the term is called building egress. I've put my timber up and will order perspex tomorrow. Thanks for your advise on 4.5mm perspex. I've been quoted for 3.5mm and 4.5mm, so I'll get the latter.
4.5mm is says it at the end but anything thicker than that is overkill. Best project I ever did. Never hear a peep anymore during the night sleep like a baby.
Just buy primed finger joint pine. It's cheap. 40 x 18mm I think that's what I used. Just make a border all around the window and screw it into the window frame. Leave enough room for the weather seal and for the 4mm perspex. Good luck
I'm actually thinking about using strong button magnets instead of screws to make it removable. My windows are a steel/metal rim (not enough for magnets to stick so will need a stick on metal strip) and will still use the spongy foam stuff you used on the perspex. Reckon it's worth a shot?
Thank you. I will give this a go.
Thanks for the great tips. I am desperate for a solution like this (warmth and a neighborhood of untrained dogs barking night and day) but I will need to have some rooms with frames that can be easily removed (especially in the summer) so I'll have to think of something other than screws for quick release. I especially thank you for the tip on weak magnetic strips since that was what I was about to employ. Cheers.
Hey John, thanks for taking the time to do this video, im in Tugun QLD next to the airport and cars bikes birds planes are giving me the shits, so i got a quote for double glazed windows in my bedroom 1800 x 1200 and they want $3150.00 supply only ,So thats not happening i then went to bunnings and bought Sunlite 8mm Multiwall poly sheets and pushed them onto my window frames neat fit no foam not secured yet as this is a trial and ive recorded a sound drop of 2 db Very Disappointed it has however been a good thermal barrier , so is it that the product ive used is to thin in wall thickness guessing its like 1mm x 2 fluted poly thinking the 4.5 mm poly offers more resistance to vibration and the 50mm gap between it and the window with the foam might be the secret , cheers Dave..
Anyone thinking of doing this should consider putting silica gel between the frames to prevent condensation.
Don’t get any because there’s a few little gaps in the corner to let air out
@@JohnCranberry23 and let air in...
A couple of close-ups would help.
Hate to be 'that' guy, but I think screwing the sheets in isn't legal due to fire escape reasons. I think the term is called building egress. I've put my timber up and will order perspex tomorrow. Thanks for your advise on 4.5mm perspex. I've been quoted for 3.5mm and 4.5mm, so I'll get the latter.
The room is on the second floor. If you jump out that window you die 😏
@@JohnCranberry23 I think firemen have ladders
@@winghwong I’d suffocate anyway. Besides I have alternate options.
I dont get the drilling bit, so did you leave some space t drill through to the wood, or did you drill through the glass?
I drilled through the perspex and the wood beading and used self tapping screws to secure the sheets flush against the beading.
Hi, thanks for your video, very helpful. How thick is the perspex sheeting you used?
4.5mm is says it at the end but anything thicker than that is overkill. Best project I ever did. Never hear a peep anymore during the night sleep like a baby.
Thanks for that, I’ll go with your recommendation!
Awesome man.... Gonna hit up Bunnings and give this a crack. Did you have any close up pics of the wood part?
Just buy primed finger joint pine. It's cheap. 40 x 18mm I think that's what I used. Just make a border all around the window and screw it into the window frame. Leave enough room for the weather seal and for the 4mm perspex. Good luck
I'm actually thinking about using strong button magnets instead of screws to make it removable. My windows are a steel/metal rim (not enough for magnets to stick so will need a stick on metal strip) and will still use the spongy foam stuff you used on the perspex.
Reckon it's worth a shot?
@@ivanlee27 yeah you can buy strong magnets with a countersunk hold to screw them into framework
Thanks. Any issue with condensation?
No. Nothing but peace and quiet
None. Complete vacuum