Hey everyone, several folks had asked where to find the OEM purple relay as the P/N is difficult to find. I thought I threw the original bad one away, but found it the other day. The OEM part number is BMW 61.36-1388 911 (or just “bmw 61361388911” for web searching. Hope this helps👍. All the best, Steve
@@toddwalter4571 , thanks man 👍. Yep, it’s hard to find the part number for it as there aren’t any references on the BMW part info sites. Hopefully it’s just a bad relay, but the symptoms for a bad relay are very similar to when the segment sensor won’t read the position correctly. A lot depends on where it’s stopping in the sequence to be able to tell which issue it might be. For example, if the top moves, but the compartment lid won’t open AND you can still hear the pump running, most likely it’s an issue with the wing segment sensor and not the relay. If yours is doing that, you might check out one of the other videos on the channel related to the segment sensor. There are some diagnosing back and forth comments I’ve I’ve done with folks on how to check (I think there are on this relay replacement video as well). If the pump is not even making any pumping sound like the motor is running, it might be the relay causing the problem. Hopefully you’ll get it sorted out pretty easily 👍. All the best ! Steve
Thanks for the great tutorials - having the usual not locking issues! Do you remember what the amps are for those purple relays? Looked into the part # on various sites and it does not show it being used in any 6 series from 04 to 10!! Peculiar - knowing amps would be helpful - thx
@rulebraking thanks 👍. I looked at the spare one I have and it doesn’t clearly indicate the Amp rating (it does have “14a” printed on it, but that might now be the amp rating). The manufacturers part number is Tyco v23134-e59-x102 if that helps in the search. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Thank you for this video. You are one of the only people that actually know anything about the convertible top for the BMW 6 series. I'm going to replace mind as soon as I get back in country.
Thanks man ! Yep, there is very little info out there for these for some reason. I couldn’t find much either when I first got my car and it started having issues with the top so I figured other owners might find the my learnings useful as well so I started making the videos 👍. One thing I’ve found on determining if it is truly a relay problem like mine had is whether you can hear the pump motor running or not. If the pump is running when the button is pressed, but the car won’t open the compartment cover or won’t continue the cycle, it may be the wing’s segment sensor instead of the pump relay. Both have very similar symptoms, but the difference is that if it’s the relay, the pump doesn’t make noise like it’s trying to pump. If it’s the wing segment sensor or the compartment segment sensor, the pump is trying to pump, but the sensor is not picking up the correct segment so it won’t switch to the next step in the sequence. There’s another video on the segment sensor that might be worth while to check 👍. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
SonofAleph , thanks 👍. Yep, the convertible tops definitely have their issues, but nothing that can’t be fixed if you have the software to see what the faults are. My wife absolutely loves her convertible.
Thanks so much Steve you have a amazing Knowledge on the e64 650i looks like you have had all these problems before I will try your suggestions and get back to you as soon as I have plenty of time as i live in Southern Ireland and no sign of the ☀️ yet Thanks again👍
Thanks man 👍. Yep, I’ve had my share of issues with mine for sure...that and helping folks that were close enough they could bring theirs to the house to have a look at it (the one with the beige interior in some of the videos is a guy’s that lives about 3 hours from me who asked for some help. There is another guy from Ireland (Galway) that we were able to get his working again but just chatting back and forth on the comments 👍. He’s a really cool guy and we still email back and forth periodically. For sure let me know if you get it sorted out 👍. We’ll keep working at it till you get it going again. All the best ! Steve
Thanks man 👍. Yep, these are nice cars to have and really fun to drive. The convertible top’s sensors are annoying, but once you know what the most common problems are, they aren’t too bad to work on. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
I’m sure you’ll get it 👍. I have quite a few videos out on the channel that cover most of the convertible top issues as well as removing the rear window module if the motor or sensors are bad if you want to check other things. If you get stumped, you can make a comment on any of the videos...I try to respond to each comment and several folks have been able to get theirs working again by explaining what it’s doing (or not doing) for tips on what to check. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Hi Steve, thank you for your reply :) . I’ve power probed the motor so that’s working fine. Dropped the roof manually and smashed the rear glass so that came today. Hopefully fit it back on later on today as it’s now 12.08am UK time. Not as experienced as you are as I’ve seen a few of your videos which are amazing thank you 👌🏽
Thanks for the compliment 👍. It took me quite a while to get a feel for how it all works...lots of video editing where I removed all of the time I spent staring at it and wondering what the problem was lol 🤣. It is nice that the convertible module basically just follows a series of checks using all of the different position sensors so it won’t do the next step in the movement until all of the conditions are met. Makes it a bit easier to diagnose as, most times, it’s just waiting for a sensor to be made to move in to the next step. If a sensor is not reading or a motor or pump didn’t move it to the next step, it just stops and waits. Let me know how it goes once you get it diagnosed 👍
@@StevesDIYs Ho Steve, I replaced the rear glass today and still nothing, it doesn’t go up or down as all the other window seal do. There’s power going to it. The rear of the roof doesn’t sit flush either!. Any ideas?
Hello Steve, thanks for all you do. Are you familiar with the drive locking mechanism that is located in the front of the soft top above the sun visor? I was told that mine need to be replaced. I have not seen you or anyone else do a video on it. Please advise.
Hey ! Thanks and glad the videos help some 👍. For the latching mechanism, there is actually a video out in the channel showing how it works and replacing the motor. Here’s a link to the video if interested…maybe it will help to see what the issue with yours might be: ruclips.net/video/1psaE3Uj-BM/видео.html . Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Stephen Lee , hello...if you google “bmw e64 k18363” or k18364 (these are the relays for the hydraulic pump from the BMW NewTIS.info that they have all of their specific model info in) it now shows the Salmon relay instead of the purple one so I guess the latest salmon one is ok to use for here as well. When you google it, you’ll see some images from the TIS that show them in a black and white pic with their numbers. I’d probably get one from a reputable website as the pin pattern is generic so a lot of aftermarket relays would fit, but might not be rated for the amp draw. Hope this helps.
Stephen Lee , hey ! I was cleaning up the garage the other day and found the old purple relay that’s so hard to find. The part number is BMW 61.36-1388911 (or just 61361388911 for googling). I looked it up and still shows available on several parts places. You may have already got yours, but wanted to let you know. Steve
I took mine into BMW because roof gets stuck after the windows gets lowered, then nothing, boot lid doesn’t open. They said cvm control unit was faulty so they changed it, now they’re saying it’s the hydrologic pump. Further more when I told them it’s too expensive, leave the convertible top up, don’t fix it, BMW said they can’t get the roof up because the hydraulic’s faulty. Do you have any advice? Or tips? Are they telling the truth or lying? Keep up the great videos 👍
Hello, unfortunately BMW doesn’t seem to have anyone that knows much about these anymore from what I’ve seen and heard. Without knowing all of the symptoms, it’s hard to tell, but I will say that I’ve never encountered a bad CVM module or a bad hydraulic pump. Most times it’s bad hall sensor on the back window, a bad segment sensor on the mechanism, or a bad back window or front latching motor. They should know how to close the top manually and get it back closed over the car without the hydraulics...if they don’t know how to close it manually, I don’t think I would trust that they had anyone that even knew how to work on the top there anymore at that dealer. If you do decide to bring it back home, there are quite a few videos on the channel that should help sort out the issue. We can also walk through the steps to diagnose it once we can determine a few things it’s doing. There’s been several folks on the channel that have had different issues and we were able to sort them out by just talking back and forth on comments or emails. Just let me know. All the best, Steve
@@StevesDIYs thanks for the reply Steve, it was the hydraulic unit, not the hydraulic pump, I miss quoted, does that make a difference getting the roof back on manually?
@@milley2204 hello, no putting the top up manually doesn’t rely on the hydraulics...it’s an emergency procedure in case something fails in order to get the top closed back (or if it needs to be move for service. Here’s a link to a video on the channel on how to do it...they should know the steps: ruclips.net/video/CPdUUkOGGIY/видео.html . Several folks have said they have called their local BMW dealer for help on the tops on these and they said they would not even work on them anymore unfortunately (thus why I ended up making so many videos on my channel about fixing mine as there’s just not much info out there for these). There is also a forum of owners called bimmerfest.com I believe that might be able to recommend a shop that they have used if someone is in the same area as you. I’ll look up the site name and verify to be sure that’s what it is.
Hey man ! I’m not familiar with the 120i model, but if the convertible design is automatic like the 6 series, I’d say that it is very similar as BMW tended to stay with the similar designs for the same production year groups. There are other videos on the channel as well in the e64 650i Playlist that look at other issues these soft tops have. You may be able to look at those and see if your mechanism is similar in design. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hey Steve, love your videos! I was hoping you could tell me what kind of diagnostic tester you have that shows the top sensors and if it’s possible for me to purchase one
Thanks man ! Yep, I use INPA for most of the basic diagnostics (it’s the software shown running on the little blue laptop in some of the videos). It’s actually a free download from websites like bimmergeeks.com since it is for older models at this point. They also sell the OBDii cable that is used to connect up to the car, but you can get it from other websites as well. For these models, it’s the one referred to as the silver cable (it has a silver cable wire) vs. the blue one for the ‘90’s models. I bought the cheap blue laptop and put a memory card into the memory slot (the card like a video camera uses) and loaded it there. Since I don’t trust free downloads, I only use the PC for the cars. It can be a bit aggravating to load up and parts of it were never converted to English (it was originally in German), but it does all of the functions and I just looked up the words on google to get around until I got familiar with it. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hi Steve. Thanks for these great videos! My pump is working. The wings lift but the top never releases from the windshield. Pump keeps working but nothing happens. I’m replacing these sensors this weekend but I was wondering if you’ve ever heard of this? The BMW dealer said most likely the pump and wants $7,500 to replace. Said it’s the routing block built into the pump. If I have to purchase a used pump on eBay is it difficult? Thank you!
Hey man ! If the wings are lifting after the windows go down, then the pump is definitely working and most likely the valve block as well since it’s switching to the cylinders that lift the wings. The initial unlatching and the lifting of the front small section of the soft top is actually done with the motor that’s up above the windshield (when the soft top is over the car.m). If you are not hearing this motor running (or it’s running but the latches don’t unlatch or the top begins to open) it could be this motor or the fuse or relay that controls it. Up in the front middle of the soft top is the hole that you can put an Allen wrench in and turn to manually lock or unlock the front part in the event of an emergency (it has arrows on the access hole to show which way to rotate). When turning it to unlock the top, you’ll have to keep rotating and rotating even after the latches let go as this motor also does the initial lift of the small front part. If it will unlatch and then move the front part up as you turn this motor, do this and then after the front parts stops lifting as you turn the motor with the Allen wrench, try pressing the soft top retract button again and see if it will go ahead and retract the soft top and finish the cycle. If it does, then the latching motor, it’s relay or fuse or the gears have gone bad. If, when you try to turn the motor in the unlock direction with an Allen wrench, the wrench just spins and doesn’t move anything, then most likely the motor gears are stripped out (pretty common on these as the gears are plastic). For that, you’ll have to remove the plastic cover that’s above the windshield (the front of the soft top) and pop the flex cables off the motor and turn both sides manually to allow you to access the latching motor to replace it. There’s some other videos on the channel for that if it ends up being the problem…I can send you a link to them if you haven’t found them. If it was me, I’d have a go at trying to unlatch it manually as mentioned above and then see if the pump will take over from there. Just let me know if this does or doesn’t work and any details of what specifically it does. If you don’t get it, feel free to comment back and we can check some more things. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Thank you for replying, I appreciate it! I did unlock the top manually and it still won't move. I just purchased the purple relays and I will replace them this weekend and hope that helps! Any videos you can send me would be greatly appreciated.
@gregzilberfarb2574 no problem 👍. Here’s one for if you do need to look at the latching motor, it’s out on the channel under the e63/e64 BMW playlist along with several other videos on how to diagnose issues with the grumpy soft tops on these lol: ruclips.net/video/1psaE3Uj-BM/видео.htmlsi=R9WxwhHgSRjIQzpg . Let me know how it goes and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs I'm sorry to keep bugging you. You mentioned it could be the fuse or the relay. Is it one of the purple relays you mentioned in another video? If not, could you give me a general idea of where the fuse and relay are? Thanks again, very much appreciated!
Hi my 120i convertable 2010 I removed the front cover that cover the locking mechanizm I press the open button the windows come down but no response to open would you be able to advise thanks Trev in plumstead cape town south africa.
Hello, sorry, I missed your comment from about a month ago. You may have already determined the problem, but if it’s similar to the 6 Series convertible system, it is most likely waiting because one of the Hall effect sensors or segment sensors for the triangular wings is not reading the correct position to let it know to continue the cycle.
Steve can you help My roof will only open to where you had it in your video to change relays,wings up front section of the roof up and the cover up but this is as far as it will go It will go down again and close all the windows but when i try to open it again it still wont go pass that location if i keep my finger on the open button you caN still hear the pump but it is labouring
Hey man ! Good description of the issue...that helps a lot👍. Good news is that it sounds like everything is working, it’s just not wanting to go to the next step in the sequence which would be to start retracting the top into the compartment. At this point in the sequence, it usually switches the pump valves to start lifting the top, but a couple of things might be preventing it. The computer has to know that the wings are fully up, the front latches are fully unlatched and at the end of the movement, and it also needs to know that the compartment cover is fully open (as well as a couple more things). Sounds like it knows the front latches are in the right position, but is still running the pump trying to get either the compartment lid fully open or the wings fully up. The compartment lid has a hall sensor on the skinny lift cylinder on the driver’s side (US models) that lets it know it’s fully up so for it you can have someone hold the button and then wiggle the compartment cover to see if it will make the sensor and continue on. For the wings being in the correct position, the computer relies on a segment sensor that is on the driver side (US models) wing lifting arms...if this sensor does not detect the correct segment, the pump will continue to try to lift it before going to the next step in the sequence. For that one, you can wiggle the wings up and down a little to see if it will hit the correct segment with someone pushing the button and see if it will continue on, or if sitting in the car, you can push up on the top a little once it unlatches and starts lifting the front part to help it to see if that will get the wings in to correct segment. Usually it’s the segment sensor on the wings that causes troubles with it stopping in mid cycle...if it does continue on when wiggling the wings up and down a bit, I’d say odds are it’s the segment sensor going bad (I’ve already repaired mine once and then eventually replaced it a few years later (the segment sensor checking video is on the channel as well). Hope this helps, Steve
Great video -- thank you. I have a 2009 E64. My convertible top issue is slightly different than yours. When I initiate the convertible top to open (from a fully closed position), the back panel lifts up, the wings lift up, the convertible top makes it about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up through the process and then it just stops midway through the opening process. Then, when I go to close the top electronically, it will not go through the close process and I have to close the top manually (using your other video -- thank you!!). Do you think this also could be relay related, or does that sound like an issue with the hydraulic motor or fluid level? Thank you for whatever thoughts you can share!!!
Rick Yates , hello...glad the videos were helpful 👍. These are some complicated systems for sure with everything going on (and the car trying to protect the mechanism if it thinks something is out of sequence). From what I’ve seen, the hydraulic seems to have to work the hardest to lift the top from the front window upper frame (when the little section first pops up after unlatching and starts to raise), so if it’s making it through that part I would think the hydraulics have plenty of strength. If it’s stopping in mid cycle, but you don’t get the “gong” and the top not locked, it’s probably waiting for one of the segment sensors to get into the right position so it can continue the cycle. If it gongs right as it stops, then it’s picked up a fault (like it lost signal to a sensor or a sensor that’s supposed to be made suddenly changed state). To protect its self, it just stops (which creates a ton of short term frustration, but at least it didn’t crash and ruin the mechanism 👍). Here’s a link to another video on my channel that shows the movement of the top and how the sensors all have to work in sequence or it will either gong or not complete the cycle. At about the 6:40 time mark it faults and goes “gong” because it lost all signal to the segment sensor for the wings, at about the 7:40 mark the segment sensor twitched on the segment so the rear deck lid went back down because it got out of sequence (then started the cycle again when the correct segment registered). Also in the video, when I tried to start the cycle on one of the movements, the side windows went down, but the back window didn’t so the whole cycle wouldn’t initiate. All of these issues (fortunately caught in the one video), were because the wing’s segment sensor was not giving the correct segment location output to the computer or it glitched and totally lost the signal. I replaced it shortly after the video was made and it’s not had another issue. Having the INPA software and the OBDII communication cable is a life saver for these convertibles...It’s not very expensive and can quickly show if a sensor is glitching or is not giving a signal. Hope this helps (sorry for the long reply)...here’s the link to the other video...you can click or tap the video and then click or tap the three dots in the upper right and you can slow the video down to watch what mine does at the position where yours is stopping. ruclips.net/video/lIAedJ2d5a8/видео.html All the best, Steve
@@StevesDIYs Thank you, thank you for the great trouble-shooting ideas. For me, the more detail, the better. I now have my afternoon quarantine project :-). I truly appreciate your videos and responsiveness. You rock!
Rick Yates thanks man 👍. If you get it figured out, comment back on what you found...it’s always good learnings for me (and other folks that might read through the comments). Take care, Steve
@@StevesDIYs Sorry for the delay in getting back. I've been monitoring more closely what is going on. The open procedure is working fine -- no issues. On the close procedure, a) deck lid opens successfully, b) top lifts out of storage successfully, c) wings lift up successfully, d) deck begins to lower, but then reverses direction, then attempts to lower again, and reverses direction -- there is no gong in the process until I let go of the close button. After I abort the close process and let the car sit for about 30-60 seconds, the deck lids closes on its own. Then I am alway able to complete the close process manually without pulling the cables in the back of the trunk. Based on this and your previous help, I believe there is a sensor issue. To help me pinpoint it, I plan to purchase an ODBII diagnostic tool. Based on research, I plan to get the Carly product. Do you have any thoughts on the more detailed description of the issue, or on the ODBII product choice. Thanks as always!!!
Rick Yates , hey man, glad you are making progress and narrowing it down. That’s really good news that the top will fully cycle open and close except for the little hiccup on the lid...rules out pumps, motors, the controller, and a lot of things for sure. Based on your details, it sure does sound like one of the two segment sensors shown in that link from one of the previous comments at the 6:40 time stamp. Sounds like it’s not telling the car the wing or overall top position so it starts to drop the lid, but then thinks the wings are in the way (when they actually aren’t) so it raises it back up to try again. I’ve never used the Carley scanner, but the friend that’s cream colored interior 650i that is in some of the videos had it and told him that he had a sensor fault on his back window (his main problem out of all the problems on his, lol), but that was about it. For stuff like incorrect segment positions from a sensor that cause the top to pause in the cycle, I’m not sure if a scanner that does not show the movement and on off states of the sensors will be able to diagnose much...not sure though since I’ve never used one. It maybe just me, but I prefer the INPA software...not only for the top issues, but it also lets you look at all of the modules in the car, does real time scanning of things like spark quality to find a failing coil, and also does the battery registration when the battery is changed. Here’s a link to another video on the channel with a reply on the INPA and cable if you did go that route. No need to watch the video, just look in the Comments section for the video and look for a commenter named John Kelleher. He is struggling with his top right now as well (for a different issue it seems). In the comment I talk about the software...it is a bit of a pain to get used to the half English/half German menus and get it to link up the first time it seems (I didn’t have any issues), but it lets you visually see the sensors turn on and off as well as see the segment sensor positions move. Here’s the link with the Comments: ruclips.net/video/0aGmCzuROvA/видео.html Sounds like you are really close on getting it sorted out 👍...once you can talk to the car and see what the sequence is doing I’ll bet you have it working in no time 👍.
That’s actually a good thing...basically means it wants to complete the cycle but thinks you stopped it for some reason as it’s not kicking up the Emergency Top Operation error. Does sound like a sensor not reading so it just won’t go to the next step in the sequence.
Hi I wonder if I can help me to find the location for the hydraulic pump for 2005 645Ci convertible because I need to top it off with the hydraulic oil
Hello, it’s actually in the same compartment that the relays are in…attached to the back of the rear window module. It’s hiding under some foam insulation where the purple relays are in the video 👍
Hi Steve, really like your videos all the way from Hong Kong. Have a nice e63 and the latest issue is that the flap doesn't open but is making the right noices. What's up? Many thanks. ERIK
@@jens-erikolsen3063 , hello, thanks ! Glad the videos are helpful 👍. From what you are describing, the good news is that it sounds like there’s no issues with the hydraulics or front latching mechanism so that’s good as they are more difficult to fix. If it will will lift the wings and then unlock and start to lift the front of the soft top, but then stops and won’t lift the compartment lid, most likely it is not reading the correct segment on the wing’s segment sensor. If it doesn’t know that the wings are fully up (it gets this indication from the segment sensor) it will not lift the compartment cover because it is not sure that the wings are out of the way. An easy way to check is to have someone begin the motion of opening the soft top by holding the open button, then, when it raises the wings and pops the front soft top section up, as they are holding the button, wiggle the wing on the left side of the car (the drivers side for US models) up and down gently and see if it will make it to the correct segment on the sensor. Even if it does it for just a second and tries to lift the compartment lid, then you’ll know that it is an issue with the segment sensor going bad. Most times it will begin working again, but will eventually start having the issue again as the segment sensor gets worse and worse. If that makes it start working again and you want to change the sensor, there is another video on the channel that shows how to modify it or change it. In your case, I would just go ahead and change it as the sensor modification method is more to get it to stop saying the top is not latched when it’s being driven. Hope this helps...if not, reply back and we can look at other things it might be. All the best from TN USA ! Steve
Hello, I believe the 3 Series soft tops are designed a bit differently than the 6 Series, but the mechanism and latching may be similar. Here’s a link to another video on the channel on how to manually close the 6 Series soft top in an emergency if it helps any: ruclips.net/video/CPdUUkOGGIY/видео.html . Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hi Steve! I have a 2004 BMW 645ci. My top was working perfectly, drove it through a car wash and now it won't open. I unlock and push the button, the windows go down, but nothing else. Any idea what it could be? A relay?
Hey man, sounds like either the segment sensor for the triangular wings is not reading the correct position from the top getting wet and loosening or the Hall effect sensor in the rear window has gotten corroded and got wet from the car wash if I had to guess. Does it blink the red light and give a top not locked error when you press the top open or close button and the side windows lower and then you release the button? If so, it could be that the wing segment sensor is not reading the correct position preventing the rear window from moving to begin the top movement cycle. There’s another video on the channel for adjusting/replacing the segment sensor as well under the “BMW e64 DIYs” playlist that shows the sensor and how to adjust or replace. If it’s an issue with the rear window Hall effect sensor, that one is a bit more complicated to fix as it requires removal of the rear window module to fix the sensor. This issue will also only let the side windows go down when the top open button is pressed, but if you try to lower the rear window with the button it will not move even if the red light is not blinking by the top open/close button. For reference, here’s the video on the rear window Hall effect sensor…at the 18:00 minute mark, I show the corroded sensor that was causing the problem for this one, but I would first check the segment sensor as it is the most common problem with these convertible tops: ruclips.net/video/MfV_Ta8G6ds/видео.html . I’ll reply with another comment with the link to the segment sensor video (RUclips only lets me copy one link per comment) and there are also several other videos on the channel under the e64 playlist for how to manually open or close the soft top (in case you have to replace a sensor). There’s also one on how to re-lock the soft top if it turns out that the rear window Hall effect sensor is bad…with this error, once you manually move the soft top it will also disable your side windows and the latches have to be locked back before the side windows will move again.
Hey again ! Here’s the other link to the segment sensor video for reference: ruclips.net/video/0aGmCzuROvA/видео.html . Hope these help and all the best ! Steve
Hey Steve, Sumo from Delaware here. I have an 09 650i convertible. I’m having trouble with my top. Washed the car and waxed it. After that I put the top down to take some pictures. When putting the top back up, it goes up. Just until it’s about to latch it stops and won’t go any further to latch on. I had to hold it down and use a hex tool to close it completely. But by doing that, my rear window won’t go up. Any knowledge or assistance will be super appreciated. Thanks
Hello. It sounds possibly like the wing sensor is not reading the correct position to let the car know they came fully down in order to complete the latching. If you have someone hold the button to complete the closing sequence and then wiggle the driver side convertible top wing on the car, it may hit the correct segment and then complete the sequence and raise the rear window up like it should. From what I’ve found, 9 times out of 10 it’s this segment sensor on the driver side wing that starts reading incorrectly and causing issues. There are several videos on the channel that show this segment sensor that might be helpful in diagnosing it 👍. Hope this helps get it going again and all the best ! Steve
@@sumomassaquoi5212 , thanks man ! Glad to be able to help out 👍. If it starts doing this (or other errors more frequently) the sensor may finally be going bad and will need to be replaced from what I’ve seen. That segment sensor on the driver side wing is the number one reason for top faults for sure. If you do end up needing to replace it, there are some other videos on the channel that show how...it’s not bad at all to replace. All the best ! Steve
Hi Steve, I’ve got the BMW 640d F12 model. The problem I’m having is the roof won’t come down, the back cover lid opens the roof latch unlocks but the roof won’t come down. Do you have any idea what can be the issue? Can it be the relays like this? Look forward to hearing back from you. Thank you
A Rashid , hello...I’m not familiar with the convertible top for the newer F series convertibles, but the mechanism and sensors may be similar. Is it giving an error when it stops in the cycle or does it act like it is just waiting for something? If it is just waiting, it could be several things from a bad relay to one of the segment sensors (angle sensors I think they call them now) that reads the position of the wings or the back cover as well as the hall sensor that tells the computer that the back lid is indeed in the open position. I would first check to see if the hall sensor on the back lid that tells the computer it is in the up position is reading. I’ve heard of corrosion issues for the connector on this sensor (it should be attached to the end of one of the thin hydraulic pistons that lifts the rear cover if it’s like the E6x series convertibles). You might try unplugging the sensor connector and then plugging it back in (with the car off and key out of the ignition). Then try the top again. The next step I would do is obtain a copy if the software and OBDii cable that allows communication with the car so I could see what sensors were making (or not making) to see why it is not wanting to complete the cycle. Sorry that I cannot provide much information...I’m just not familiar with the new series so I do t want to give you bad information. Steve
Steve’s DIYs Hi Steve, it’s not giving no error codes. It seems like it’s waiting for something not doesn’t open after he latch unlocks. Basically I had the quarter panel replaced from a body shop and after that this problem happened, the body shop are stating that they did not disconnect anything, they only keep the lid open for few days. The body shop took it to do a diagnostic but they are saying no fault codes came up on the scanner...
A Rashid , hmmm...that is odd. I would suspect that a sensor is not making then if they truly didn’t disconnect anything. It would be difficult to determine what the problem is without the scanner software to see which sensor is not making that it’s waiting on (like what I show on the PC in some of my videos). The convertible top basically works off a sequence of sensors being made or opening...each has to be made or opened for the next step to be performed in the sequence. If it will lift the back lid, then the hydraulic pump and system must be working so that’s good. To me it sounds like it’s waiting for a sensor to be made (like the back lid being up). If it cannot detect that the back lid is fully up, it won’t begin lifting the wings (which also pulls the top away from the top of the windshield by small cables at the same time). Once the wings are up and the initial lift is done on the front, the hydraulics then switch in the pump and begin retracting the top completely. Without the software, if it will open the back lid so you can see the two thin cylinders that lifted it as well as the other sensors for the mechanism, would wiggle the connectors for the sensors that are in the compartment just to see if maybe one was loose. Hope this helps, Steve
Half of my top goes down but the back won’t go up for my top to go inside do you think it’s the relays , sorry so late hopefully you respond tomorrow thank you and have a bless night
Basketball junky Game , hey again ! In looking at the hydraulic pump diagram, it looks like one relay runs the pump in one direction to lift the rear deck lid, then reverses the pump direction with the other relay to do the heavy lifting of the soft top so it could be that the relay that opens the deck lid is not working and it doesn’t run the pump for this step indeed. The other issue might be with the solenoid valves on the pump block not actuating to allow the hydraulic fluid go to the lift cylinders. I haven’t had an issue with the solenoids on the pump block and if it is one of those, the pump should be really groaning, but nothing moving. I would try the relays first, but even before doing this, I would do the manual opening of the top and put it in the compartment, close the rear deck lid, and then hit the button that opens the top just to see if it will complete the cycle and latch the deck lid by itself. If it will not automatically re-latch the deck lid and complete the cycle (the windows raise back), I would then hit the close the top button and see if it begin the top closure cycle. If it won’t do either, I would then have a look at swapping the relays in the pump unit to see if they are bad (you’ll have to manually raise the top out of the compartment like the video to get access to the pump module for removal. Hope this helps 👍, Steve
Hey Steve, any idea why I could be getting this error and how to fix this? Error code: 805032 Label: Supply voltage of soft top connector end position sensors short circuit to minus Fault code description: The control unit has detected a short-circuit to ground at the supply voltage of the sensors for end position.
Hello, I’m not familiar with the exact code it is giving, but from the description, it sounds like it has detected that one of the Hall effect sensor’s 12 volt wire is contacting the frame or ground wire. The description doesn’t specify which sensor it is other than that it is an “end position” sensor so that could be almost any of the hall sensors on soft top mechanism (the ones that sense the latches above the windshield have reached the end position, the ones for the compartment cover that are on the ends of the hydraulic lift arms, or the one that is on the rear window inside of the window module that detects that the rear window is fully down). I would first check the wiring that runs along the inside of the soft top on the drivers side (US models) as it can get caught in the mechanism that collapses the soft top. If you gently pull down slightly in the inner liner that is inside the soft top over the drivers door, you should see a wiring loom that runs from the back, up to the front of the soft top where it latches to the windshield. I would inspect that for any damage to the wires to be sure they have not been accidentally pinched by the mechanism. If those are all good, you will probably have to follow those into the compartment and also look for any areas that the wires might have been damaged. If all of that wiring is good, it may be the rear window hall sensor has gotten corroded, but I would definitely check all of the other wires before checking this as you would need to remove the rear window module to access the hall sensor. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs thanks for the quick response. Everything works fine until the soft down is 90% in the compartment cover - so assuming nothing wrong with the ones that sense the latches since I am able to close the soft top with the button (after lifting it up manually from the compartment cover). I will take a look at the wiring in the compartment cover and if I do not see anything wrong then it's probably the rear window sensor because when I complete the soft top cycle manually (after it stops) the rear window stops functioning.
@@Msameerbeig actually, if the soft top will move at all, the rear window hall sensor must be functioning properly since it is required to be made for the car to know that it is absolutely down (it is the one thing that can actually get broken if it is in the up position and the top moves so BMW took extra care to insure the car knows it is fully down and stays there for the complete cycle). Based on the movement you described it will do, it sounds like it is either loosing signal the hall sensor that is on the lift arms for the compartment lid, or that it has lost the signal of the segment sensor that is on the triangle wings for the last segments of that sensor. Both of those are easy to access so it might be a thought to have a look at those to see if there is any damage. It constantly monitors all if the hall sensors do if one has a broken wire or intermittent connection, it will stop the movement and give an error so I think it could still be the ones up front or the wiring to them as well since it monitors them all during the movement.
Hello, just to be sure I know which light and button you are talking about...is it the light for the buttons that opens and close the top that won’t light up or is the one on the driver door panel for the rear window?
Help Me, hello...it takes about 15 mins to get the top out of the compartment to access the pump module where the relays are, then about 30 to 45 minutes to remove and open the pump module to swap the relays and put it back together. Hope this helps 👍
jan Rodgerson , it very well could be for some issues...lots of things will make the movement stop (if just one sensor or position is out if sequence), but after replacing the relay it went back to functioning correctly again. When I bench checked the relay it was bad (the relay coil was fried). Not a very common failure it seems, but in my case it was the issue.
Steve , my name is Joe. I have a 2006 bmw 650i my top will move until its time for the lid to open. it does not. code reader says relay. I looked in manual on how to raise top manually and the top does not want to move easily and I cannot get the wings to come up to raise the lid. I may need to push harder but I do not want to bend or cause hydraulic issue. I pulled the releases in the trunk for the lid. I tried to run the roof by power and the lid relocks making it not accessible. Is there a step by step procedure to lower top by hand to allow me to access the rear lid without it relocking. Thanks
Hey man ! Just so I can be sure to understand what it’s doing( it might take a couple of comments back and forth to get to the detail)...the top is currently covering the car, but when you press the button, it unlatches from the window and pops up the small front section just a little, but then doesn’t move anymore? Then when you press the button to have it close back down on the car and connect back to the top of the window it will do that? I do have a “how to close the top manually” video on the channel as it does have to be moved manually to work on it if it faults, but want to be sure I understand what yours is doing as if it will move some you can skip some of the steps possibly. Steve
@@StevesDIYs when operating the top it moves like normal but lid does not open. If I hit the button to close it closes properly. When I put the scanner on it says relay
@@josephcattan3176 , hey again, here’s the link to the other video showing how to close the top over the car which may be helpful. If you do the movement of the top until it goes to where it does not lift the wings or the compartment, at that point you should be able to take the physical key that’s inside the key fob and open the trunk to pull the manual pull cables. Then close the trunk back to allow you to lift the wings and then lift the compartment lid by hand. It’s it best to have two people to lift the compartment lid and also to hold the wings up and lift the big sections of the soft top to allow it to be placed back in the compartment. Once you pull the manual releases in the trunk, it disables the hydraulic pressure system so there should not be any hydraulic resistance to move the wings or the top...just the weight of them. The wings aren’t very heavy, but the big sections of the soft top are pretty heavy. Here’s the link...hope this helps some: ruclips.net/video/CPdUUkOGGIY/видео.html
@@StevesDIYs ok using the key allowed easy access duh on my part. I open box got relays out and changed. did not fix problem The lid will not open to allow top to go in. No issue with top movement until lid is supposed to open, I see that one cylinder of the pump lifts the lid do I have a pump problem on that cylinder. I do not hear the lid unlock during operation either. The hum from the pump continues when the button is held.? have you seen this before? I have error code from KBM Body Basic Module "a43e diagnosis lead, rear lid relay. I changed the purple ones and did not fix, is that relay somewhere else? Thanks for your generous help!
@@josephcattan3176 , thanks man...no problem 👍. That’s actually a good thing that you hear the pump still running with the button held as that means the pump is still working....normally when it’s doing this it’s just trying to complete the current part of the cycle it’s trying to do. When you release your finger from the button, it should “gong” to let you know it thinks you stopped the cycle before it completed (although an issue is why you stopped pressing the button). The action of unlocking the compartment lid latches is actually done as the first step by the lid lift cylinders so if it cannot lift the lid it will also not unlatch it (a safety feature BMW built in). If everything is working until it comes time to lift the lid (it unlatches from the top of the window, pops up the front part a little, and then lifts the wings, but then won’t lift the compartment lid, the most likely issue is that the segment sensor that is located on the driver side wing lift linkage is not reading the correct segment so the computer thinks it needs to keep pushing the wings up to get it to the correct segment (it’s just trying to complete the wing lift step basically). There’s another video on the channel that shows me diagnosing the segment sensor and what segments it should be on (I’ll send you a link in a second comment). If you plan to keep the car for several more years and are pretty good with a computer (the software is a bit difficult to get to load sometimes) I would recommend getting a communications cable and the INPA software so you can communicate with the car and see what it is doing versus just a regular scanner. It’s the software I use in the videos and can show you exactly what is going on with the sensors and system for most modules in the car. Without INPA though, you can try a few things to see if you can narrow down the problem. For the wing segment sensor....if it’s just not reading the correct segment and causing it to not move to the compartment lid lift, sometimes you can gently lift and lower the wing when it is up and trying to get to the correct segment while someone is pressing the button and if you can make it hit the correct segment it should complete this step and then begin lifting the compartment lid. As the segment sensor gets some wear on it, it won’t hit the required segment (segment 7) so the car thinks it is not out of the way and won’t lift the compartment lid. If, by lifting or pressing in the wing a little let’s it continue on, then I would say that’s your problem. If not, then you may have to get the INPA software and cable so you can see just what the sensors are doing that is preventing the cycle from continuing. I’ll send the link to the other video in just a sec...let me know how it goes by lifting the wing up and pushing it down slightly while someone is pressing the top open button. All the best ! Steve
Just B , thanks man ! Hope it helped some if you are having an issue with your top👍. There’s several other videos out on my channel that go through the other issues I’ve had with mine if yours is doing something odd. All the best, Steve
Just B , yep, that’s what mine was doing. If you have it lift the cover up, then hop out and shake the convertible top while it’s down in the compartment then try the button again sometimes it will go ahead and open if it’s the segment sensor that’s not making right as well. It’s something easy to try just to see.
Mine ended up being the relay though for the problem. I thought I threw away my bad relays, but I was cleaning up the garage the other day and found one. I’ll comment back on the numbers that are in it as others have been looking for them as well 👍
Randy Williams , hey man, when you press the button to store the top does it unlatch from the windshield and raise the wings up (popping up the front part at the same time), but then doesn’t lift the compartment lid? Also, do you hear the hydraulic pump running, but it doesn’t lift or is it just silent in the compartment area? This will help narrow it down a bit.
@@StevesDIYs It does lift the front up. I don't recall the motor running but that may be that I just didn't notice. Will check it out and get back to you.
Randy Williams , ok 👍. If it will unlatch from the windshield and raise the wings up in the back, make it do this and then have someone gently lift up on the wings a little while holding the button to see if it will try to open the compartment lid. If it does, then I would say the wing segment sensor is not picking up the correct segment so the car thinks the wings aren’t up and is waiting until it knows they are in the right position to continue the cycle. If it only unlatches from the windshield, but doesn’t lift the wings, then it’s not starting the hydraulic pump to lift the wings so it can continue which may be a relay or a fuse or something with the hydraulics that preventing the pump from starting up.
Steve, tried it and hear the motor running as the wings lift and the lid should be lifting. The motor seems to be loading up when the lid should lift from the sound. Is there a latch release that locks the lid that may not be releasing?
Randy Williams , that’s good that it will pick up the wings as it shows that the hydraulic pump and motor are working (those are expensive). Now you are just down to sensors, relays, or possibly something in the latching. Yes, it does have two latches that hold the compartment lid down and they are unlatched by the same hydraulic cylinders that provide the lifting of the compartment lid so if it’s trying to lift the lid, it will unlock these automatically when it pressurizes the lid lift cylinders. If you have the car raise the wings up and then hop out and try to lift the compartment lid by hand, it should lift up if it’s unlocked...if not, then it has not tried to lift the compartment lid with the hydraulics. However, if it sounds like it is loading down the pump just as the wings fully lift and stop, I would first suspect that the segment sensor that tells the car that the wings are all the way up is not hitting the right segment. The car needs to be sure the wings are fully up before it will unlatch and lift the compartment lid so it won’t crash them. It won’t move the lid until it hits the correct segment. Also, the wing hydraulic cylinders will keep trying to lift the wings until it hits the right segment on the sensor. If it does not reach the correct segment, it just keeps applying pressure even though the wings are fully up and can go no further (thus the loading down of the hydraulics in some cases). I would have someone press the button to make it begin the sequence and lift the wings, then, while they are still holding the button down, push the wings up a bit to see if it will hit the right segment and it will unlatch and lift the compartment lid. There’s another video on my channel that talks about the segment sensor that gives info on them and also shows the segments changing state as the wings lift that may be helpful. Give pushing up on the wing a little bit a try and let me know if that does anything different. Steve
Hello, I’m not familiar with the 630i, but most newer BMW’s have a trunk open button at the left side of the drivers foot well close to where the driver door hinges are. If yours doesn’t have the button, does it have the ski compartment access door in between the back seats just behind the center pull down arm rest? If so, you may be able to access the trunk through it. Sorry I couldn’t be much help, Steve.
Hello, possibly, but there are several things that can cause this. A couple of questions…are they stuck open or closed? Is it just the front windows, just the back side ones and the rear one, or all of them? Is your convertible light flashing on the buttons on the center console and you are getting a top not locked error? Also, if you press the button to select the rear window to raise or lower it, does the small led light up on the driver door button assembly? These might help to narrow the issue down some.
Hey everyone, several folks had asked where to find the OEM purple relay as the P/N is difficult to find. I thought I threw the original bad one away, but found it the other day. The OEM part number is BMW 61.36-1388 911 (or just “bmw 61361388911” for web searching. Hope this helps👍. All the best, Steve
Haa, I just saw your post about it.. thank you so much!!
@@toddwalter4571 , thanks man 👍. Yep, it’s hard to find the part number for it as there aren’t any references on the BMW part info sites. Hopefully it’s just a bad relay, but the symptoms for a bad relay are very similar to when the segment sensor won’t read the position correctly. A lot depends on where it’s stopping in the sequence to be able to tell which issue it might be. For example, if the top moves, but the compartment lid won’t open AND you can still hear the pump running, most likely it’s an issue with the wing segment sensor and not the relay. If yours is doing that, you might check out one of the other videos on the channel related to the segment sensor. There are some diagnosing back and forth comments I’ve I’ve done with folks on how to check (I think there are on this relay replacement video as well). If the pump is not even making any pumping sound like the motor is running, it might be the relay causing the problem. Hopefully you’ll get it sorted out pretty easily 👍. All the best ! Steve
Hi I have a convertible BMX I owe 700 on it everything works it's practically new I was wondering how much can I get for mine
Thanks for the great tutorials - having the usual not locking issues! Do you remember what the amps are for those purple relays? Looked into the part # on various sites and it does not show it being used in any 6 series from 04 to 10!! Peculiar - knowing amps would be helpful - thx
@rulebraking thanks 👍. I looked at the spare one I have and it doesn’t clearly indicate the Amp rating (it does have “14a” printed on it, but that might now be the amp rating). The manufacturers part number is Tyco v23134-e59-x102 if that helps in the search. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Thank you for this video. You are one of the only people that actually know anything about the convertible top for the BMW 6 series. I'm going to replace mind as soon as I get back in country.
Thanks man ! Yep, there is very little info out there for these for some reason. I couldn’t find much either when I first got my car and it started having issues with the top so I figured other owners might find the my learnings useful as well so I started making the videos 👍. One thing I’ve found on determining if it is truly a relay problem like mine had is whether you can hear the pump motor running or not. If the pump is running when the button is pressed, but the car won’t open the compartment cover or won’t continue the cycle, it may be the wing’s segment sensor instead of the pump relay. Both have very similar symptoms, but the difference is that if it’s the relay, the pump doesn’t make noise like it’s trying to pump. If it’s the wing segment sensor or the compartment segment sensor, the pump is trying to pump, but the sensor is not picking up the correct segment so it won’t switch to the next step in the sequence. There’s another video on the segment sensor that might be worth while to check 👍. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Doing some pre purchase maintenance research. Your video, like this one, is very beneficial.
SonofAleph , thanks 👍. Yep, the convertible tops definitely have their issues, but nothing that can’t be fixed if you have the software to see what the faults are. My wife absolutely loves her convertible.
Thanks so much Steve you have a amazing Knowledge on the e64 650i looks like you have had all these problems before
I will try your suggestions and get back to you as soon as
I have plenty of time as i live in Southern Ireland and no sign of the ☀️ yet
Thanks again👍
Thanks man 👍. Yep, I’ve had my share of issues with mine for sure...that and helping folks that were close enough they could bring theirs to the house to have a look at it (the one with the beige interior in some of the videos is a guy’s that lives about 3 hours from me who asked for some help. There is another guy from Ireland (Galway) that we were able to get his working again but just chatting back and forth on the comments 👍. He’s a really cool guy and we still email back and forth periodically. For sure let me know if you get it sorted out 👍. We’ll keep working at it till you get it going again. All the best ! Steve
Steve, a big thank you for your great easy to follow videos.
Thanks man 👍. All the best ! Steve
Steve you are the man! Inspired me to get a 650i!
Thanks man 👍. Yep, these are nice cars to have and really fun to drive. The convertible top’s sensors are annoying, but once you know what the most common problems are, they aren’t too bad to work on. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Excellent now let’s see if I can get mine sorted as easily here in the UK 👍🏽
I’m sure you’ll get it 👍. I have quite a few videos out on the channel that cover most of the convertible top issues as well as removing the rear window module if the motor or sensors are bad if you want to check other things. If you get stumped, you can make a comment on any of the videos...I try to respond to each comment and several folks have been able to get theirs working again by explaining what it’s doing (or not doing) for tips on what to check. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Hi Steve, thank you for your reply :) . I’ve power probed the motor so that’s working fine. Dropped the roof manually and smashed the rear glass so that came today. Hopefully fit it back on later on today as it’s now 12.08am UK time. Not as experienced as you are as I’ve seen a few of your videos which are amazing thank you 👌🏽
Thanks for the compliment 👍. It took me quite a while to get a feel for how it all works...lots of video editing where I removed all of the time I spent staring at it and wondering what the problem was lol 🤣. It is nice that the convertible module basically just follows a series of checks using all of the different position sensors so it won’t do the next step in the movement until all of the conditions are met. Makes it a bit easier to diagnose as, most times, it’s just waiting for a sensor to be made to move in to the next step. If a sensor is not reading or a motor or pump didn’t move it to the next step, it just stops and waits. Let me know how it goes once you get it diagnosed 👍
@@StevesDIYs Yea I’ve just got to work it all out and find where this fault is. Thank you I will do 👍🏽
@@StevesDIYs Ho Steve, I replaced the rear glass today and still nothing, it doesn’t go up or down as all the other window seal do. There’s power going to it. The rear of the roof doesn’t sit flush either!. Any ideas?
Hello Steve, thanks for all you do. Are you familiar with the drive locking mechanism that is located in the front of the soft top above the sun visor? I was told that mine need to be replaced. I have not seen you or anyone else do a video on it. Please advise.
Hey ! Thanks and glad the videos help some 👍. For the latching mechanism, there is actually a video out in the channel showing how it works and replacing the motor. Here’s a link to the video if interested…maybe it will help to see what the issue with yours might be: ruclips.net/video/1psaE3Uj-BM/видео.html . Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Nice post! Thank you. Where can I find this purple relay? I even looked for a BMW dealer's website but could not find one.
Stephen Lee , hello...if you google “bmw e64 k18363” or k18364 (these are the relays for the hydraulic pump from the BMW NewTIS.info that they have all of their specific model info in) it now shows the Salmon relay instead of the purple one so I guess the latest salmon one is ok to use for here as well. When you google it, you’ll see some images from the TIS that show them in a black and white pic with their numbers. I’d probably get one from a reputable website as the pin pattern is generic so a lot of aftermarket relays would fit, but might not be rated for the amp draw. Hope this helps.
Stephen Lee , hey ! I was cleaning up the garage the other day and found the old purple relay that’s so hard to find. The part number is BMW 61.36-1388911 (or just 61361388911 for googling). I looked it up and still shows available on several parts places. You may have already got yours, but wanted to let you know. Steve
I took mine into BMW because roof gets stuck after the windows gets lowered, then nothing, boot lid doesn’t open. They said cvm control unit was faulty so they changed it, now they’re saying it’s the hydrologic pump. Further more when I told them it’s too expensive, leave the convertible top up, don’t fix it, BMW said they can’t get the roof up because the hydraulic’s faulty. Do you have any advice? Or tips? Are they telling the truth or lying? Keep up the great videos 👍
Hello, unfortunately BMW doesn’t seem to have anyone that knows much about these anymore from what I’ve seen and heard. Without knowing all of the symptoms, it’s hard to tell, but I will say that I’ve never encountered a bad CVM module or a bad hydraulic pump. Most times it’s bad hall sensor on the back window, a bad segment sensor on the mechanism, or a bad back window or front latching motor. They should know how to close the top manually and get it back closed over the car without the hydraulics...if they don’t know how to close it manually, I don’t think I would trust that they had anyone that even knew how to work on the top there anymore at that dealer. If you do decide to bring it back home, there are quite a few videos on the channel that should help sort out the issue. We can also walk through the steps to diagnose it once we can determine a few things it’s doing. There’s been several folks on the channel that have had different issues and we were able to sort them out by just talking back and forth on comments or emails. Just let me know. All the best, Steve
@@StevesDIYs thanks for the reply Steve, it was the hydraulic unit, not the hydraulic pump, I miss quoted, does that make a difference getting the roof back on manually?
@@milley2204 hello, no putting the top up manually doesn’t rely on the hydraulics...it’s an emergency procedure in case something fails in order to get the top closed back (or if it needs to be move for service. Here’s a link to a video on the channel on how to do it...they should know the steps: ruclips.net/video/CPdUUkOGGIY/видео.html . Several folks have said they have called their local BMW dealer for help on the tops on these and they said they would not even work on them anymore unfortunately (thus why I ended up making so many videos on my channel about fixing mine as there’s just not much info out there for these). There is also a forum of owners called bimmerfest.com I believe that might be able to recommend a shop that they have used if someone is in the same area as you. I’ll look up the site name and verify to be sure that’s what it is.
I have a 120i convertable will my 2010 model have the same 2 relays and how different is mine to your model thanks Trev in cape town south africa
Hey man ! I’m not familiar with the 120i model, but if the convertible design is automatic like the 6 series, I’d say that it is very similar as BMW tended to stay with the similar designs for the same production year groups. There are other videos on the channel as well in the e64 650i Playlist that look at other issues these soft tops have. You may be able to look at those and see if your mechanism is similar in design. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hey Steve, love your videos! I was hoping you could tell me what kind of diagnostic tester you have that shows the top sensors and if it’s possible for me to purchase one
Thanks man ! Yep, I use INPA for most of the basic diagnostics (it’s the software shown running on the little blue laptop in some of the videos). It’s actually a free download from websites like bimmergeeks.com since it is for older models at this point. They also sell the OBDii cable that is used to connect up to the car, but you can get it from other websites as well. For these models, it’s the one referred to as the silver cable (it has a silver cable wire) vs. the blue one for the ‘90’s models. I bought the cheap blue laptop and put a memory card into the memory slot (the card like a video camera uses) and loaded it there. Since I don’t trust free downloads, I only use the PC for the cars. It can be a bit aggravating to load up and parts of it were never converted to English (it was originally in German), but it does all of the functions and I just looked up the words on google to get around until I got familiar with it. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hi Steve. Thanks for these great videos! My pump is working. The wings lift but the top never releases from the windshield. Pump keeps working but nothing happens. I’m replacing these sensors this weekend but I was wondering if you’ve ever heard of this? The BMW dealer said most likely the pump and wants $7,500 to replace. Said it’s the routing block built into the pump. If I have to purchase a used pump on eBay is it difficult? Thank you!
Hey man ! If the wings are lifting after the windows go down, then the pump is definitely working and most likely the valve block as well since it’s switching to the cylinders that lift the wings.
The initial unlatching and the lifting of the front small section of the soft top is actually done with the motor that’s up above the windshield (when the soft top is over the car.m). If you are not hearing this motor running (or it’s running but the latches don’t unlatch or the top begins to open) it could be this motor or the fuse or relay that controls it. Up in the front middle of the soft top is the hole that you can put an Allen wrench in and turn to manually lock or unlock the front part in the event of an emergency (it has arrows on the access hole to show which way to rotate). When turning it to unlock the top, you’ll have to keep rotating and rotating even after the latches let go as this motor also does the initial lift of the small front part.
If it will unlatch and then move the front part up as you turn this motor, do this and then after the front parts stops lifting as you turn the motor with the Allen wrench, try pressing the soft top retract button again and see if it will go ahead and retract the soft top and finish the cycle. If it does, then the latching motor, it’s relay or fuse or the gears have gone bad.
If, when you try to turn the motor in the unlock direction with an Allen wrench, the wrench just spins and doesn’t move anything, then most likely the motor gears are stripped out (pretty common on these as the gears are plastic). For that, you’ll have to remove the plastic cover that’s above the windshield (the front of the soft top) and pop the flex cables off the motor and turn both sides manually to allow you to access the latching motor to replace it. There’s some other videos on the channel for that if it ends up being the problem…I can send you a link to them if you haven’t found them.
If it was me, I’d have a go at trying to unlatch it manually as mentioned above and then see if the pump will take over from there. Just let me know if this does or doesn’t work and any details of what specifically it does. If you don’t get it, feel free to comment back and we can check some more things. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Thank you for replying, I appreciate it! I did unlock the top manually and it still won't move. I just purchased the purple relays and I will replace them this weekend and hope that helps! Any videos you can send me would be greatly appreciated.
@gregzilberfarb2574 no problem 👍. Here’s one for if you do need to look at the latching motor, it’s out on the channel under the e63/e64 BMW playlist along with several other videos on how to diagnose issues with the grumpy soft tops on these lol: ruclips.net/video/1psaE3Uj-BM/видео.htmlsi=R9WxwhHgSRjIQzpg . Let me know how it goes and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs THANK YOU!!!!!
@@StevesDIYs I'm sorry to keep bugging you. You mentioned it could be the fuse or the relay. Is it one of the purple relays you mentioned in another video? If not, could you give me a general idea of where the fuse and relay are? Thanks again, very much appreciated!
Hi my 120i convertable 2010 I removed the front cover that cover the locking mechanizm I press the open button the windows come down but no response to open would you be able to advise thanks Trev in plumstead cape town south africa.
Hello, sorry, I missed your comment from about a month ago. You may have already determined the problem, but if it’s similar to the 6 Series convertible system, it is most likely waiting because one of the Hall effect sensors or segment sensors for the triangular wings is not reading the correct position to let it know to continue the cycle.
I love this car. My husband has one in silver.
Thanks ! Yes, my wife loves her’s...especially when it warms up outside so she can open the top. All the best ! Steve
Steve can you help
My roof will only open to where you had it in your video to change relays,wings up front section of the roof up and the cover up but this is as far as it will go
It will go down again and close all the windows but when i try to open it again it still wont go pass that location if i keep my finger on the open button you caN still hear the pump but it is labouring
Hey man ! Good description of the issue...that helps a lot👍. Good news is that it sounds like everything is working, it’s just not wanting to go to the next step in the sequence which would be to start retracting the top into the compartment. At this point in the sequence, it usually switches the pump valves to start lifting the top, but a couple of things might be preventing it. The computer has to know that the wings are fully up, the front latches are fully unlatched and at the end of the movement, and it also needs to know that the compartment cover is fully open (as well as a couple more things). Sounds like it knows the front latches are in the right position, but is still running the pump trying to get either the compartment lid fully open or the wings fully up. The compartment lid has a hall sensor on the skinny lift cylinder on the driver’s side (US models) that lets it know it’s fully up so for it you can have someone hold the button and then wiggle the compartment cover to see if it will make the sensor and continue on. For the wings being in the correct position, the computer relies on a segment sensor that is on the driver side (US models) wing lifting arms...if this sensor does not detect the correct segment, the pump will continue to try to lift it before going to the next step in the sequence. For that one, you can wiggle the wings up and down a little to see if it will hit the correct segment with someone pushing the button and see if it will continue on, or if sitting in the car, you can push up on the top a little once it unlatches and starts lifting the front part to help it to see if that will get the wings in to correct segment. Usually it’s the segment sensor on the wings that causes troubles with it stopping in mid cycle...if it does continue on when wiggling the wings up and down a bit, I’d say odds are it’s the segment sensor going bad (I’ve already repaired mine once and then eventually replaced it a few years later (the segment sensor checking video is on the channel as well). Hope this helps, Steve
Thank you sir, fixed my problem.
Thanks and glad the video helped a bit 👍. All the best ! Steve
Great video -- thank you. I have a 2009 E64. My convertible top issue is slightly different than yours. When I initiate the convertible top to open (from a fully closed position), the back panel lifts up, the wings lift up, the convertible top makes it about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up through the process and then it just stops midway through the opening process. Then, when I go to close the top electronically, it will not go through the close process and I have to close the top manually (using your other video -- thank you!!). Do you think this also could be relay related, or does that sound like an issue with the hydraulic motor or fluid level? Thank you for whatever thoughts you can share!!!
Rick Yates , hello...glad the videos were helpful 👍. These are some complicated systems for sure with everything going on (and the car trying to protect the mechanism if it thinks something is out of sequence). From what I’ve seen, the hydraulic seems to have to work the hardest to lift the top from the front window upper frame (when the little section first pops up after unlatching and starts to raise), so if it’s making it through that part I would think the hydraulics have plenty of strength. If it’s stopping in mid cycle, but you don’t get the “gong” and the top not locked, it’s probably waiting for one of the segment sensors to get into the right position so it can continue the cycle. If it gongs right as it stops, then it’s picked up a fault (like it lost signal to a sensor or a sensor that’s supposed to be made suddenly changed state). To protect its self, it just stops (which creates a ton of short term frustration, but at least it didn’t crash and ruin the mechanism 👍). Here’s a link to another video on my channel that shows the movement of the top and how the sensors all have to work in sequence or it will either gong or not complete the cycle. At about the 6:40 time mark it faults and goes “gong” because it lost all signal to the segment sensor for the wings, at about the 7:40 mark the segment sensor twitched on the segment so the rear deck lid went back down because it got out of sequence (then started the cycle again when the correct segment registered). Also in the video, when I tried to start the cycle on one of the movements, the side windows went down, but the back window didn’t so the whole cycle wouldn’t initiate. All of these issues (fortunately caught in the one video), were because the wing’s segment sensor was not giving the correct segment location output to the computer or it glitched and totally lost the signal. I replaced it shortly after the video was made and it’s not had another issue. Having the INPA software and the OBDII communication cable is a life saver for these convertibles...It’s not very expensive and can quickly show if a sensor is glitching or is not giving a signal. Hope this helps (sorry for the long reply)...here’s the link to the other video...you can click or tap the video and then click or tap the three dots in the upper right and you can slow the video down to watch what mine does at the position where yours is stopping. ruclips.net/video/lIAedJ2d5a8/видео.html All the best, Steve
@@StevesDIYs Thank you, thank you for the great trouble-shooting ideas. For me, the more detail, the better. I now have my afternoon quarantine project :-). I truly appreciate your videos and responsiveness. You rock!
Rick Yates thanks man 👍. If you get it figured out, comment back on what you found...it’s always good learnings for me (and other folks that might read through the comments). Take care, Steve
@@StevesDIYs Sorry for the delay in getting back. I've been monitoring more closely what is going on. The open procedure is working fine -- no issues. On the close procedure, a) deck lid opens successfully, b) top lifts out of storage successfully, c) wings lift up successfully, d) deck begins to lower, but then reverses direction, then attempts to lower again, and reverses direction -- there is no gong in the process until I let go of the close button. After I abort the close process and let the car sit for about 30-60 seconds, the deck lids closes on its own. Then I am alway able to complete the close process manually without pulling the cables in the back of the trunk. Based on this and your previous help, I believe there is a sensor issue. To help me pinpoint it, I plan to purchase an ODBII diagnostic tool. Based on research, I plan to get the Carly product. Do you have any thoughts on the more detailed description of the issue, or on the ODBII product choice. Thanks as always!!!
Rick Yates , hey man, glad you are making progress and narrowing it down. That’s really good news that the top will fully cycle open and close except for the little hiccup on the lid...rules out pumps, motors, the controller, and a lot of things for sure. Based on your details, it sure does sound like one of the two segment sensors shown in that link from one of the previous comments at the 6:40 time stamp. Sounds like it’s not telling the car the wing or overall top position so it starts to drop the lid, but then thinks the wings are in the way (when they actually aren’t) so it raises it back up to try again. I’ve never used the Carley scanner, but the friend that’s cream colored interior 650i that is in some of the videos had it and told him that he had a sensor fault on his back window (his main problem out of all the problems on his, lol), but that was about it. For stuff like incorrect segment positions from a sensor that cause the top to pause in the cycle, I’m not sure if a scanner that does not show the movement and on off states of the sensors will be able to diagnose much...not sure though since I’ve never used one. It maybe just me, but I prefer the INPA software...not only for the top issues, but it also lets you look at all of the modules in the car, does real time scanning of things like spark quality to find a failing coil, and also does the battery registration when the battery is changed. Here’s a link to another video on the channel with a reply on the INPA and cable if you did go that route. No need to watch the video, just look in the Comments section for the video and look for a commenter named John Kelleher. He is struggling with his top right now as well (for a different issue it seems). In the comment I talk about the software...it is a bit of a pain to get used to the half English/half German menus and get it to link up the first time it seems (I didn’t have any issues), but it lets you visually see the sensors turn on and off as well as see the segment sensor positions move. Here’s the link with the Comments: ruclips.net/video/0aGmCzuROvA/видео.html Sounds like you are really close on getting it sorted out 👍...once you can talk to the car and see what the sequence is doing I’ll bet you have it working in no time 👍.
Ps Steve the only message on the dash is (THE SOFT TOP IS NOT LOCKED) even thought the roof is half open?
That’s actually a good thing...basically means it wants to complete the cycle but thinks you stopped it for some reason as it’s not kicking up the Emergency Top Operation error. Does sound like a sensor not reading so it just won’t go to the next step in the sequence.
Hi I wonder if I can help me to find the location for the hydraulic pump for 2005 645Ci convertible because I need to top it off with the hydraulic oil
Hello, it’s actually in the same compartment that the relays are in…attached to the back of the rear window module. It’s hiding under some foam insulation where the purple relays are in the video 👍
Hi Steve, really like your videos all the way from Hong Kong. Have a nice e63 and the latest issue is that the flap doesn't open but is making the right noices. What's up? Many thanks. ERIK
Wings go up and front flips up but the flap/cover stays closed.
@@jens-erikolsen3063 , hello, thanks ! Glad the videos are helpful 👍. From what you are describing, the good news is that it sounds like there’s no issues with the hydraulics or front latching mechanism so that’s good as they are more difficult to fix. If it will will lift the wings and then unlock and start to lift the front of the soft top, but then stops and won’t lift the compartment lid, most likely it is not reading the correct segment on the wing’s segment sensor. If it doesn’t know that the wings are fully up (it gets this indication from the segment sensor) it will not lift the compartment cover because it is not sure that the wings are out of the way. An easy way to check is to have someone begin the motion of opening the soft top by holding the open button, then, when it raises the wings and pops the front soft top section up, as they are holding the button, wiggle the wing on the left side of the car (the drivers side for US models) up and down gently and see if it will make it to the correct segment on the sensor. Even if it does it for just a second and tries to lift the compartment lid, then you’ll know that it is an issue with the segment sensor going bad. Most times it will begin working again, but will eventually start having the issue again as the segment sensor gets worse and worse. If that makes it start working again and you want to change the sensor, there is another video on the channel that shows how to modify it or change it. In your case, I would just go ahead and change it as the sensor modification method is more to get it to stop saying the top is not latched when it’s being driven. Hope this helps...if not, reply back and we can look at other things it might be. All the best from TN USA ! Steve
My rear glass is actually stuck in the centre position so hoping this is the problem 2004 645
I have a 2009, 335i, E53. How do I operate the top manually?
Hello, I believe the 3 Series soft tops are designed a bit differently than the 6 Series, but the mechanism and latching may be similar. Here’s a link to another video on the channel on how to manually close the 6 Series soft top in an emergency if it helps any: ruclips.net/video/CPdUUkOGGIY/видео.html . Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hi Steve! I have a 2004 BMW 645ci. My top was working perfectly, drove it through a car wash and now it won't open. I unlock and push the button, the windows go down, but nothing else. Any idea what it could be? A relay?
Hey man, sounds like either the segment sensor for the triangular wings is not reading the correct position from the top getting wet and loosening or the Hall effect sensor in the rear window has gotten corroded and got wet from the car wash if I had to guess. Does it blink the red light and give a top not locked error when you press the top open or close button and the side windows lower and then you release the button? If so, it could be that the wing segment sensor is not reading the correct position preventing the rear window from moving to begin the top movement cycle. There’s another video on the channel for adjusting/replacing the segment sensor as well under the “BMW e64 DIYs” playlist that shows the sensor and how to adjust or replace.
If it’s an issue with the rear window Hall effect sensor, that one is a bit more complicated to fix as it requires removal of the rear window module to fix the sensor. This issue will also only let the side windows go down when the top open button is pressed, but if you try to lower the rear window with the button it will not move even if the red light is not blinking by the top open/close button. For reference, here’s the video on the rear window Hall effect sensor…at the 18:00 minute mark, I show the corroded sensor that was causing the problem for this one, but I would first check the segment sensor as it is the most common problem with these convertible tops: ruclips.net/video/MfV_Ta8G6ds/видео.html . I’ll reply with another comment with the link to the segment sensor video (RUclips only lets me copy one link per comment) and there are also several other videos on the channel under the e64 playlist for how to manually open or close the soft top (in case you have to replace a sensor). There’s also one on how to re-lock the soft top if it turns out that the rear window Hall effect sensor is bad…with this error, once you manually move the soft top it will also disable your side windows and the latches have to be locked back before the side windows will move again.
Hey again ! Here’s the other link to the segment sensor video for reference: ruclips.net/video/0aGmCzuROvA/видео.html . Hope these help and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs thank you Steve, I really appreciate it. I'm going to check everything out with these videos!
Hey Steve, Sumo from Delaware here. I have an 09 650i convertible. I’m having trouble with my top. Washed the car and waxed it. After that I put the top down to take some pictures. When putting the top back up, it goes up. Just until it’s about to latch it stops and won’t go any further to latch on. I had to hold it down and use a hex tool to close it completely. But by doing that, my rear window won’t go up. Any knowledge or assistance will be super appreciated. Thanks
Hello. It sounds possibly like the wing sensor is not reading the correct position to let the car know they came fully down in order to complete the latching. If you have someone hold the button to complete the closing sequence and then wiggle the driver side convertible top wing on the car, it may hit the correct segment and then complete the sequence and raise the rear window up like it should. From what I’ve found, 9 times out of 10 it’s this segment sensor on the driver side wing that starts reading incorrectly and causing issues. There are several videos on the channel that show this segment sensor that might be helpful in diagnosing it 👍. Hope this helps get it going again and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Thanks Steve. I’ll try and let you know.
It worked like a charm. Thanks brother. Many blessings to you and your family.
@@sumomassaquoi5212 , thanks man ! Glad to be able to help out 👍. If it starts doing this (or other errors more frequently) the sensor may finally be going bad and will need to be replaced from what I’ve seen. That segment sensor on the driver side wing is the number one reason for top faults for sure. If you do end up needing to replace it, there are some other videos on the channel that show how...it’s not bad at all to replace. All the best ! Steve
Hi Steve, I’ve got the BMW 640d F12 model. The problem I’m having is the roof won’t come down, the back cover lid opens the roof latch unlocks but the roof won’t come down. Do you have any idea what can be the issue? Can it be the relays like this? Look forward to hearing back from you. Thank you
A Rashid , hello...I’m not familiar with the convertible top for the newer F series convertibles, but the mechanism and sensors may be similar. Is it giving an error when it stops in the cycle or does it act like it is just waiting for something? If it is just waiting, it could be several things from a bad relay to one of the segment sensors (angle sensors I think they call them now) that reads the position of the wings or the back cover as well as the hall sensor that tells the computer that the back lid is indeed in the open position. I would first check to see if the hall sensor on the back lid that tells the computer it is in the up position is reading. I’ve heard of corrosion issues for the connector on this sensor (it should be attached to the end of one of the thin hydraulic pistons that lifts the rear cover if it’s like the E6x series convertibles). You might try unplugging the sensor connector and then plugging it back in (with the car off and key out of the ignition). Then try the top again. The next step I would do is obtain a copy if the software and OBDii cable that allows communication with the car so I could see what sensors were making (or not making) to see why it is not wanting to complete the cycle. Sorry that I cannot provide much information...I’m just not familiar with the new series so I do t want to give you bad information. Steve
Steve’s DIYs Hi Steve, it’s not giving no error codes. It seems like it’s waiting for something not doesn’t open after he latch unlocks. Basically I had the quarter panel replaced from a body shop and after that this problem happened, the body shop are stating that they did not disconnect anything, they only keep the lid open for few days. The body shop took it to do a diagnostic but they are saying no fault codes came up on the scanner...
A Rashid , hmmm...that is odd. I would suspect that a sensor is not making then if they truly didn’t disconnect anything. It would be difficult to determine what the problem is without the scanner software to see which sensor is not making that it’s waiting on (like what I show on the PC in some of my videos). The convertible top basically works off a sequence of sensors being made or opening...each has to be made or opened for the next step to be performed in the sequence. If it will lift the back lid, then the hydraulic pump and system must be working so that’s good. To me it sounds like it’s waiting for a sensor to be made (like the back lid being up). If it cannot detect that the back lid is fully up, it won’t begin lifting the wings (which also pulls the top away from the top of the windshield by small cables at the same time). Once the wings are up and the initial lift is done on the front, the hydraulics then switch in the pump and begin retracting the top completely. Without the software, if it will open the back lid so you can see the two thin cylinders that lifted it as well as the other sensors for the mechanism, would wiggle the connectors for the sensors that are in the compartment just to see if maybe one was loose. Hope this helps, Steve
Half of my top goes down but the back won’t go up for my top to go inside do you think it’s the relays , sorry so late hopefully you respond tomorrow thank you and have a bless night
Basketball junky Game , hey again ! In looking at the hydraulic pump diagram, it looks like one relay runs the pump in one direction to lift the rear deck lid, then reverses the pump direction with the other relay to do the heavy lifting of the soft top so it could be that the relay that opens the deck lid is not working and it doesn’t run the pump for this step indeed. The other issue might be with the solenoid valves on the pump block not actuating to allow the hydraulic fluid go to the lift cylinders. I haven’t had an issue with the solenoids on the pump block and if it is one of those, the pump should be really groaning, but nothing moving. I would try the relays first, but even before doing this, I would do the manual opening of the top and put it in the compartment, close the rear deck lid, and then hit the button that opens the top just to see if it will complete the cycle and latch the deck lid by itself. If it will not automatically re-latch the deck lid and complete the cycle (the windows raise back), I would then hit the close the top button and see if it begin the top closure cycle. If it won’t do either, I would then have a look at swapping the relays in the pump unit to see if they are bad (you’ll have to manually raise the top out of the compartment like the video to get access to the pump module for removal. Hope this helps 👍, Steve
You are the best I appreciate your time thank you so much !!! God bless !!
Hey Steve, any idea why I could be getting this error and how to fix this?
Error code: 805032
Label: Supply voltage of soft top connector end position sensors short circuit to minus
Fault code description: The control unit has detected a short-circuit to ground at the supply voltage of the sensors for end position.
Hello, I’m not familiar with the exact code it is giving, but from the description, it sounds like it has detected that one of the Hall effect sensor’s 12 volt wire is contacting the frame or ground wire. The description doesn’t specify which sensor it is other than that it is an “end position” sensor so that could be almost any of the hall sensors on soft top mechanism (the ones that sense the latches above the windshield have reached the end position, the ones for the compartment cover that are on the ends of the hydraulic lift arms, or the one that is on the rear window inside of the window module that detects that the rear window is fully down). I would first check the wiring that runs along the inside of the soft top on the drivers side (US models) as it can get caught in the mechanism that collapses the soft top. If you gently pull down slightly in the inner liner that is inside the soft top over the drivers door, you should see a wiring loom that runs from the back, up to the front of the soft top where it latches to the windshield. I would inspect that for any damage to the wires to be sure they have not been accidentally pinched by the mechanism. If those are all good, you will probably have to follow those into the compartment and also look for any areas that the wires might have been damaged. If all of that wiring is good, it may be the rear window hall sensor has gotten corroded, but I would definitely check all of the other wires before checking this as you would need to remove the rear window module to access the hall sensor. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs thanks for the quick response. Everything works fine until the soft down is 90% in the compartment cover - so assuming nothing wrong with the ones that sense the latches since I am able to close the soft top with the button (after lifting it up manually from the compartment cover). I will take a look at the wiring in the compartment cover and if I do not see anything wrong then it's probably the rear window sensor because when I complete the soft top cycle manually (after it stops) the rear window stops functioning.
@@Msameerbeig actually, if the soft top will move at all, the rear window hall sensor must be functioning properly since it is required to be made for the car to know that it is absolutely down (it is the one thing that can actually get broken if it is in the up position and the top moves so BMW took extra care to insure the car knows it is fully down and stays there for the complete cycle). Based on the movement you described it will do, it sounds like it is either loosing signal the hall sensor that is on the lift arms for the compartment lid, or that it has lost the signal of the segment sensor that is on the triangle wings for the last segments of that sensor. Both of those are easy to access so it might be a thought to have a look at those to see if there is any damage. It constantly monitors all if the hall sensors do if one has a broken wire or intermittent connection, it will stop the movement and give an error so I think it could still be the ones up front or the wiring to them as well since it monitors them all during the movement.
Nice one Steve,,,,big up brother
hey steve, my 07 will not light up on the button nor does it lift up, any help of where to start the diagnostic would be appreciated
Hello, just to be sure I know which light and button you are talking about...is it the light for the buttons that opens and close the top that won’t light up or is the one on the driver door panel for the rear window?
So how long does all that actually takes ?
Help Me, hello...it takes about 15 mins to get the top out of the compartment to access the pump module where the relays are, then about 30 to 45 minutes to remove and open the pump module to swap the relays and put it back together. Hope this helps 👍
These tips must be initialized in sequence. It didn't come out of the boot because the front latch wasnt in the correct position.
jan Rodgerson , it very well could be for some issues...lots of things will make the movement stop (if just one sensor or position is out if sequence), but after replacing the relay it went back to functioning correctly again. When I bench checked the relay it was bad (the relay coil was fried). Not a very common failure it seems, but in my case it was the issue.
Steve , my name is Joe. I have a 2006 bmw 650i my top will move until its time for the lid to open. it does not. code reader says relay. I looked in manual on how to raise top manually and the top does not want to move easily and I cannot get the wings to come up to raise the lid. I may need to push harder but I do not want to bend or cause hydraulic issue. I pulled the releases in the trunk for the lid. I tried to run the roof by power and the lid relocks making it not accessible. Is there a step by step procedure to lower top by hand to allow me to access the rear lid without it relocking. Thanks
Hey man ! Just so I can be sure to understand what it’s doing( it might take a couple of comments back and forth to get to the detail)...the top is currently covering the car, but when you press the button, it unlatches from the window and pops up the small front section just a little, but then doesn’t move anymore? Then when you press the button to have it close back down on the car and connect back to the top of the window it will do that? I do have a “how to close the top manually” video on the channel as it does have to be moved manually to work on it if it faults, but want to be sure I understand what yours is doing as if it will move some you can skip some of the steps possibly. Steve
@@StevesDIYs when operating the top it moves like normal but lid does not open. If I hit the button to close it closes properly. When I put the scanner on it says relay
@@josephcattan3176 , hey again, here’s the link to the other video showing how to close the top over the car which may be helpful. If you do the movement of the top until it goes to where it does not lift the wings or the compartment, at that point you should be able to take the physical key that’s inside the key fob and open the trunk to pull the manual pull cables. Then close the trunk back to allow you to lift the wings and then lift the compartment lid by hand. It’s it best to have two people to lift the compartment lid and also to hold the wings up and lift the big sections of the soft top to allow it to be placed back in the compartment. Once you pull the manual releases in the trunk, it disables the hydraulic pressure system so there should not be any hydraulic resistance to move the wings or the top...just the weight of them. The wings aren’t very heavy, but the big sections of the soft top are pretty heavy. Here’s the link...hope this helps some: ruclips.net/video/CPdUUkOGGIY/видео.html
@@StevesDIYs ok using the key allowed easy access duh on my part. I open box got relays out and changed. did not fix problem The lid will not open to allow top to go in. No issue with top movement until lid is supposed to open, I see that one cylinder of the pump lifts the lid do I have a pump problem on that cylinder. I do not hear the lid unlock during operation either. The hum from the pump continues when the button is held.? have you seen this before? I have error code from KBM Body Basic Module "a43e diagnosis lead, rear lid relay. I changed the purple ones and did not fix, is that relay somewhere else? Thanks for your generous help!
@@josephcattan3176 , thanks man...no problem 👍. That’s actually a good thing that you hear the pump still running with the button held as that means the pump is still working....normally when it’s doing this it’s just trying to complete the current part of the cycle it’s trying to do. When you release your finger from the button, it should “gong” to let you know it thinks you stopped the cycle before it completed (although an issue is why you stopped pressing the button). The action of unlocking the compartment lid latches is actually done as the first step by the lid lift cylinders so if it cannot lift the lid it will also not unlatch it (a safety feature BMW built in). If everything is working until it comes time to lift the lid (it unlatches from the top of the window, pops up the front part a little, and then lifts the wings, but then won’t lift the compartment lid, the most likely issue is that the segment sensor that is located on the driver side wing lift linkage is not reading the correct segment so the computer thinks it needs to keep pushing the wings up to get it to the correct segment (it’s just trying to complete the wing lift step basically). There’s another video on the channel that shows me diagnosing the segment sensor and what segments it should be on (I’ll send you a link in a second comment). If you plan to keep the car for several more years and are pretty good with a computer (the software is a bit difficult to get to load sometimes) I would recommend getting a communications cable and the INPA software so you can communicate with the car and see what it is doing versus just a regular scanner. It’s the software I use in the videos and can show you exactly what is going on with the sensors and system for most modules in the car. Without INPA though, you can try a few things to see if you can narrow down the problem. For the wing segment sensor....if it’s just not reading the correct segment and causing it to not move to the compartment lid lift, sometimes you can gently lift and lower the wing when it is up and trying to get to the correct segment while someone is pressing the button and if you can make it hit the correct segment it should complete this step and then begin lifting the compartment lid. As the segment sensor gets some wear on it, it won’t hit the required segment (segment 7) so the car thinks it is not out of the way and won’t lift the compartment lid. If, by lifting or pressing in the wing a little let’s it continue on, then I would say that’s your problem. If not, then you may have to get the INPA software and cable so you can see just what the sensors are doing that is preventing the cycle from continuing. I’ll send the link to the other video in just a sec...let me know how it goes by lifting the wing up and pushing it down slightly while someone is pressing the top open button. All the best ! Steve
Fantastic video...
Just B , thanks man ! Hope it helped some if you are having an issue with your top👍. There’s several other videos out on my channel that go through the other issues I’ve had with mine if yours is doing something odd. All the best, Steve
@@StevesDIYs I'm trying to find the best place to purchase the relays. My trunk lifts up but nothing else happens. I'm hoping it's just the relays.
Just B , yep, that’s what mine was doing. If you have it lift the cover up, then hop out and shake the convertible top while it’s down in the compartment then try the button again sometimes it will go ahead and open if it’s the segment sensor that’s not making right as well. It’s something easy to try just to see.
Mine ended up being the relay though for the problem. I thought I threw away my bad relays, but I was cleaning up the garage the other day and found one. I’ll comment back on the numbers that are in it as others have been looking for them as well 👍
@@StevesDIYs what place did you order your relay from?
Steve my lid over the top storage area will not go up when I go to store. Any ideas?
Randy Williams , hey man, when you press the button to store the top does it unlatch from the windshield and raise the wings up (popping up the front part at the same time), but then doesn’t lift the compartment lid? Also, do you hear the hydraulic pump running, but it doesn’t lift or is it just silent in the compartment area? This will help narrow it down a bit.
@@StevesDIYs It does lift the front up. I don't recall the motor running but that may be that I just didn't notice. Will check it out and get back to you.
Randy Williams , ok 👍. If it will unlatch from the windshield and raise the wings up in the back, make it do this and then have someone gently lift up on the wings a little while holding the button to see if it will try to open the compartment lid. If it does, then I would say the wing segment sensor is not picking up the correct segment so the car thinks the wings aren’t up and is waiting until it knows they are in the right position to continue the cycle. If it only unlatches from the windshield, but doesn’t lift the wings, then it’s not starting the hydraulic pump to lift the wings so it can continue which may be a relay or a fuse or something with the hydraulics that preventing the pump from starting up.
Steve, tried it and hear the motor running as the wings lift and the lid should be lifting. The motor seems to be loading up when the lid should lift from the sound. Is there a latch release that locks the lid that may not be releasing?
Randy Williams , that’s good that it will pick up the wings as it shows that the hydraulic pump and motor are working (those are expensive). Now you are just down to sensors, relays, or possibly something in the latching. Yes, it does have two latches that hold the compartment lid down and they are unlatched by the same hydraulic cylinders that provide the lifting of the compartment lid so if it’s trying to lift the lid, it will unlock these automatically when it pressurizes the lid lift cylinders. If you have the car raise the wings up and then hop out and try to lift the compartment lid by hand, it should lift up if it’s unlocked...if not, then it has not tried to lift the compartment lid with the hydraulics. However, if it sounds like it is loading down the pump just as the wings fully lift and stop, I would first suspect that the segment sensor that tells the car that the wings are all the way up is not hitting the right segment. The car needs to be sure the wings are fully up before it will unlatch and lift the compartment lid so it won’t crash them. It won’t move the lid until it hits the correct segment. Also, the wing hydraulic cylinders will keep trying to lift the wings until it hits the right segment on the sensor. If it does not reach the correct segment, it just keeps applying pressure even though the wings are fully up and can go no further (thus the loading down of the hydraulics in some cases). I would have someone press the button to make it begin the sequence and lift the wings, then, while they are still holding the button down, push the wings up a bit to see if it will hit the right segment and it will unlatch and lift the compartment lid. There’s another video on my channel that talks about the segment sensor that gives info on them and also shows the segments changing state as the wings lift that may be helpful. Give pushing up on the wing a little bit a try and let me know if that does anything different. Steve
bro accidentally i lock my keys insude trunk door is open
can u please help its urgent
bmw 630i
Hello, I’m not familiar with the 630i, but most newer BMW’s have a trunk open button at the left side of the drivers foot well close to where the driver door hinges are. If yours doesn’t have the button, does it have the ski compartment access door in between the back seats just behind the center pull down arm rest? If so, you may be able to access the trunk through it. Sorry I couldn’t be much help, Steve.
@@StevesDIYs Thank you steve for your prompt response i have been opened trunk with duplicate door key we make it easily
btw its similar to 650i
My windows are stuck can you help trouble shoot that
Hello, possibly, but there are several things that can cause this. A couple of questions…are they stuck open or closed? Is it just the front windows, just the back side ones and the rear one, or all of them? Is your convertible light flashing on the buttons on the center console and you are getting a top not locked error? Also, if you press the button to select the rear window to raise or lower it, does the small led light up on the driver door button assembly? These might help to narrow the issue down some.
@@StevesDIYs The one on the driver side is stuck up and the rest stuck down. Yes I am getting a top lock error. None of them are working .