Almost the same as I have done on mine; other than I started to remove the entire engine skid plate makes oil changes actually easier. Also, I'll stick to Pennzoil ultra premium. YOU DO NOT have to use the oil they recommend, just the correct SPI spec and a 0W20 grade oil. Nothing wrong with Mobil. You should add that for those who are watching and know no better. If the cover is back on, how do you check for drips? You could have a drip and it will remain in the skid till you start to move or enough accumulates to drip out! I would highly recommenced to leave the cover off until about 10 minutes AFTER you shut the vehicle down from the start/run period. Of better yet, just drop the entire engine skid plate and not have to worry about oil getting on the skid plate. I usually wait a good 15-20 minutes after the engine has been shut down before re-installing the skids. (Your engine, your drips and in all likelihood if all is installed correctly, not drips. But if there are some, takes a while to show up due to the skid plate holding the oil.) Also for first time, removal of the front (silver) skid, be careful....known problem from the plant that those four bolts might have been cross-threaded by some dude with an impact on the assembly line. Mine were, known a few others that had the same problem. Nice part is those bolts go into a removable bracket, one of each side (also holds in the nice red tow hooks) and usually you can use a tap to chase the threads and possibly a die to fix the bolts...bracket is held in place by two bolts. However, the bolts on the skid plate are cheap and I believe, designed to be destroyed vs. the bracket. Not expensive and my dealer carries them in high numbers since they agree, those bolts are known to be cross-threaded at the plant. Your being used means that problem was already fixed if it was there. (I'm sure the plant gets a few of them right.)
Appreciate the valuable information! For now I’ll pin your comment for people to read it. For my first change I attempted it through the inspection cover because I figured it’d be faster and easier…it was neither 😂
@@NickP4XWilderness Nick, this is a great video! I have a 2022 SV and it may be somewhat different than the PRO4X but removal of the second skid plate (with the oil filter inspection window) was not a great option. I would have had to remove the lower valance bumper in order to get at all the necessary bolts required to remove the skid plate. Instead I used your funnel advice. I had a plastic funnel that I could squeeze, pass it through the window, and then open it up under the drip spout. The trick, as I learned in some forums, is to slowly unscrew the filter and let some of the oil drain into the funnel before taking it completely off. Once off, quickly tip the filter upright and pass it out the side of the plate....not through the window. Thanks again for your video. Until I watched this, I was ready to try the water bottle trick. Instead I used a funnel with no modifications and had zero mess!
@@FourQed You gotta be kidding? You're not going to buy the most reliable, best full size pick up on the market today because I have to remove 4 bolts and a skid plate? 🤣😂
Good video. Just bought a white 2023 White Pro 4X. In my daily is a 2007 Nissan Frontier 2.5 with 400,000 Mi on it and I've only had a few small simple repairs since I've owned it. If you change the oil on these trucks will last forever there's literally examples of these trucks going a million miles.
Tin Foil works really well too! i do that for my cub cadet mower cause the filter is sideways and right at the frame so it would literally just pour onto the frame. Not sure what they were thinking a bracket would have been just fine to direct the oil
Great video, did mine 2024 1st oil change. Wasn't that difficult except removing the oil filter from factory. I promise you they didn't just hand tighten it.
Your oil filter is almost always gonna need a wrench to get it off...the motor pulls a vacuum on the filter and after all of the heat cycles it is no longer just hand tight...id be worried if I just spun an old oil filter off. That means it prolly wasn't very tight at all
Very Useful thankyou. O'rileys have a bunch of filters that fit this trucks engine. Your good with a wix filter and the whole job costs 65 dollars here in Connecticut and given that you buy an extra quart just to cover that five and a quarter that extra quart will do 4 oil changes. Knowing you did it right for half the cost of a garage is the reason I will do mine. They give the oil and filter changes to the guy who sweeps the floors. You are always better off doing the job yourself.
True, I just prefer OEM filters or at least purchasing the best 5K mile filter. For my next one I purchased the NAPA gold filter. That’s why I do mine also. Saves money, it’s a clean job, things are put back on right, and they’re not putting the wrong oil in. I don’t trust these shops anymore hiring kids to do these jobs. These “technicians” aren’t mechanics. Another good tip is to buy those 5 qt in three packs then you really get a deal. I bought three for $40 a piece. So with the roll over of extra oil I’m averaging about $51 an oil change.
I run 5w-30 in mine all year round on the east coast. I've spoken to a couple of Nissan mechanics who have told me that the 3.8 was designed to run all the way up to 10w-40 with zero issues. The only reason for the recommendation of 0w-20 is for fuel economy, and even at that, there is no proof that you are getting better fuel economy. They said that when you take your car to the dealers for an oil change, if there is no 0w-20 in the shop they usually install whatever they have which most times is 5w-30 or 10w-30. And, don't always expect synthetic oil either.
majority of the filter oil will drain on the factory drip thing, i just wish they extended it about 1/2" longer to clear the sway bar. still a better design than f*rd where they have the drip thing but it leaks out by the diff
I'm in total agreement with doing your own oil and filter change. It's really not that hard and removing a skid plate and access cover adds maybe 10 minutes to the job. I have read a number of comments saying it's not cost effective. For me that's not the point. The dealer did my last oil change and they didn't tighten the skid plate bolts. I ended up losing a couple on the road. Fortunately I saw the sagging skid plate before it completely fell off. I would like to trust my dealer but this example didn't build any confidence.
A little oil draining onto the chassis/frame is not going to hurt anything. Made that way too difficult. The water bottle/funnel. Hell, I don't even bother with the inspection plate anymore. Can reach the filter from the side/bottom. I have a 23' pro4x. I don't remove the skid plate or anything. Easy. Most important, change the oil frequently. I do every 5k miles with mobile one 0w-20.
Yeah I do every 5K miles and I guess you’re right I can just leave it off. I don’t mind a little bit of a mess it’s when it gets all over, I just prefer it as clean as possible 😂
@@NickP4XWilderness I think he means there is a funnel like metal piece that catches the oil that spills out of the filter and directs it forward through the access port. My frontier has the same design.
Thanks for watching! I hope this helped answer some questions for those looking to do oil changes themselves! What type of Nissan Frontier to you have and what’s your favorite thing about the truck?
I’ve thought the same but it takes me 20 minutes to change the oil and costs me $15 for the filter and $40 for the oil. The last time I went to get a full synthetic oil change they charged me $80 and the time before that was at a dealer and it was $120. Plus, they don’t even top fluids off anymore. So for me it gives me the piece of mind knowing it’s done right, I’ve filled up my fluids and it’s good to go.
@@NickP4XWilderness wow, you must live in a very expensive place. I just got mine done at a dealership recently with a tire rotation and it was less than $50.
For me, I just don't trust them. Will they put on a new crush washer? Will they get oil all over the place? Will they torque the bolts back on properly? Will they use the correct oil? All these things would haunt me and there's too many oil change disaster stories out there to ignore.
@@RKDriver they will, they even sent me a video showing the truck up on the lift and the condition of the brakes, etc. you can barely buy the oil and filter for what it costs for them to do it, then you have to dispose of the oil.
I DO NOT TRUST ANY BODY to work on my equipment. If I can do it... I will. If you can... you should. You get a chance to LOOK at the old oil and check for metal. You get a chance to LOOK all around your engine and take a bunch of pictures if you want to, and look at them later. DO NOT TRUST ANY BODY to work on your equipment. Always verify.
Almost the same as I have done on mine; other than I started to remove the entire engine skid plate makes oil changes actually easier. Also, I'll stick to Pennzoil ultra premium. YOU DO NOT have to use the oil they recommend, just the correct SPI spec and a 0W20 grade oil. Nothing wrong with Mobil. You should add that for those who are watching and know no better. If the cover is back on, how do you check for drips? You could have a drip and it will remain in the skid till you start to move or enough accumulates to drip out! I would highly recommenced to leave the cover off until about 10 minutes AFTER you shut the vehicle down from the start/run period. Of better yet, just drop the entire engine skid plate and not have to worry about oil getting on the skid plate. I usually wait a good 15-20 minutes after the engine has been shut down before re-installing the skids. (Your engine, your drips and in all likelihood if all is installed correctly, not drips. But if there are some, takes a while to show up due to the skid plate holding the oil.)
Also for first time, removal of the front (silver) skid, be careful....known problem from the plant that those four bolts might have been cross-threaded by some dude with an impact on the assembly line. Mine were, known a few others that had the same problem. Nice part is those bolts go into a removable bracket, one of each side (also holds in the nice red tow hooks) and usually you can use a tap to chase the threads and possibly a die to fix the bolts...bracket is held in place by two bolts. However, the bolts on the skid plate are cheap and I believe, designed to be destroyed vs. the bracket. Not expensive and my dealer carries them in high numbers since they agree, those bolts are known to be cross-threaded at the plant.
Your being used means that problem was already fixed if it was there. (I'm sure the plant gets a few of them right.)
So you drop the whole skid plate? It really doesn’t look too difficult. That’s the one issue keeping me from buying one of these trucks.
Appreciate the valuable information! For now I’ll pin your comment for people to read it. For my first change I attempted it through the inspection cover because I figured it’d be faster and easier…it was neither 😂
You’re missing out on a good vehicle if that’s what’s holding you up! The skid is only a few bolts
@@NickP4XWilderness Nick, this is a great video! I have a 2022 SV and it may be somewhat different than the PRO4X but removal of the second skid plate (with the oil filter inspection window) was not a great option. I would have had to remove the lower valance bumper in order to get at all the necessary bolts required to remove the skid plate. Instead I used your funnel advice. I had a plastic funnel that I could squeeze, pass it through the window, and then open it up under the drip spout. The trick, as I learned in some forums, is to slowly unscrew the filter and let some of the oil drain into the funnel before taking it completely off. Once off, quickly tip the filter upright and pass it out the side of the plate....not through the window.
Thanks again for your video. Until I watched this, I was ready to try the water bottle trick. Instead I used a funnel with no modifications and had zero mess!
@@FourQed You gotta be kidding? You're not going to buy the most reliable, best full size pick up on the market today because I have to remove 4 bolts and a skid plate? 🤣😂
Good video. Just bought a white 2023 White Pro 4X. In my daily is a 2007 Nissan Frontier 2.5 with 400,000 Mi on it and I've only had a few small simple repairs since I've owned it. If you change the oil on these trucks will last forever there's literally examples of these trucks going a million miles.
Tin Foil works really well too! i do that for my cub cadet mower cause the filter is sideways and right at the frame so it would literally just pour onto the frame. Not sure what they were thinking a bracket would have been just fine to direct the oil
Now this is smart! That’s some farm boy thinking! I made it way too complicated 😂
@@NickP4XWilderness and I don’t even own a farm!
Great video, did mine 2024 1st oil change. Wasn't that difficult except removing the oil filter from factory. I promise you they didn't just hand tighten it.
Your oil filter is almost always gonna need a wrench to get it off...the motor pulls a vacuum on the filter and after all of the heat cycles it is no longer just hand tight...id be worried if I just spun an old oil filter off. That means it prolly wasn't very tight at all
I watched your video and got a small engine funnel. It was able to fit without any modification.
Valvoline extended protection full synthetic is excellent oil.
I’ll check it out!
Very Useful thankyou. O'rileys have a bunch of filters that fit this trucks engine. Your good with a wix filter and the whole job costs 65 dollars here in Connecticut and given that you buy an extra quart just to cover that five and a quarter that extra quart will do 4 oil changes. Knowing you did it right for half the cost of a garage is the reason I will do mine. They give the oil and filter changes to the guy who sweeps the floors. You are always better off doing the job yourself.
True, I just prefer OEM filters or at least purchasing the best 5K mile filter. For my next one I purchased the NAPA gold filter.
That’s why I do mine also. Saves money, it’s a clean job, things are put back on right, and they’re not putting the wrong oil in. I don’t trust these shops anymore hiring kids to do these jobs. These “technicians” aren’t mechanics.
Another good tip is to buy those 5 qt in three packs then you really get a deal. I bought three for $40 a piece. So with the roll over of extra oil I’m averaging about $51 an oil change.
My dealer does my oil change for $65!
Thanks brother. I have a new Frontier and I’ll be looking out for more of your videos. Enjoy Alaska!
Nice job doing your own maintenance is best, you can be as clean and particular as you want.
That’s why I started. It also costs me an average of $60 compared to over $100
Great video. Man that seems like a pain in the butt to but hey you live in North Dakota so that’s a plus. Such a great place
I run 5w-30 in mine. I commute the highway 85 miles every day in 100 degree weather. If I were in a cold climate, the 0w-20 makes more sense.
I run 5w-30 in mine all year round on the east coast. I've spoken to a couple of Nissan mechanics who have told me that the 3.8 was designed to run all the way up to 10w-40 with zero issues. The only reason for the recommendation of 0w-20 is for fuel economy, and even at that, there is no proof that you are getting better fuel economy. They said that when you take your car to the dealers for an oil change, if there is no 0w-20 in the shop they usually install whatever they have which most times is 5w-30 or 10w-30. And, don't always expect synthetic oil either.
Your .3 was the oil you put in the filter
majority of the filter oil will drain on the factory drip thing, i just wish they extended it about 1/2" longer to clear the sway bar. still a better design than f*rd where they have the drip thing but it leaks out by the diff
Yeah and that’s why I’ll never buy a ford. Ford before 2003/4 sure, but everything since then has been a nightmare.
Thank you for the video and instructions.
I'm in total agreement with doing your own oil and filter change. It's really not that hard and removing a skid plate and access cover adds maybe 10 minutes to the job. I have read a number of comments saying it's not cost effective. For me that's not the point. The dealer did my last oil change and they didn't tighten the skid plate bolts. I ended up losing a couple on the road. Fortunately I saw the sagging skid plate before it completely fell off. I would like to trust my dealer but this example didn't build any confidence.
It’s definitely cost effective. I got three mobile one truck 5 liters for $80. Every third oil change is free lol
You have a beautiful farm dude 😎
Thank you! 🐓
We have the same exact Pro4X.
How are you liking yours?
@@NickP4XWilderness it’s great!
@@davedonlick2146love hearing it! Hope you’ll continue to enjoy the content!
Does your driver seat always get laid back from hitting the switch with your leg?
thank you for the video, luv the funnel idea on the filter pretty kool man..
Thank you! If you feel like jacking your car up I would definitely recommend taking the whole plate off so you don’t have to ruin a funnel 😂
A little oil draining onto the chassis/frame is not going to hurt anything. Made that way too difficult. The water bottle/funnel. Hell, I don't even bother with the inspection plate anymore. Can reach the filter from the side/bottom. I have a 23' pro4x. I don't remove the skid plate or anything. Easy. Most important, change the oil frequently. I do every 5k miles with mobile one 0w-20.
Yeah I do every 5K miles and I guess you’re right I can just leave it off. I don’t mind a little bit of a mess it’s when it gets all over, I just prefer it as clean as possible 😂
That’s you bud, it’s not difficult removing the plate. You’re just lazy and “Oh I don’t have time for all that”
Hello Nick Boris. We have a product that we want you to make a Review video for us. How can I contact you?
This truck has a built in drain for the oil filter....... just like my old titan.
Are you being facetious? Or is there really an easier way?
@@NickP4XWilderness I think he means there is a funnel like metal piece that catches the oil that spills out of the filter and directs it forward through the access port. My frontier has the same design.
You had better get after that surface rust on the frame... - fluid film it!
O yeah I’m not letting that sit much longer. I’ll be getting it taken care of before fall. Especially now that I’m in Alaska
You put the plate back on before running check for leaks dangerous
You can see leaks from the side also and I regularly check my oil level afterwards. No leaks
Thanks for watching! I hope this helped answer some questions for those looking to do oil changes themselves!
What type of Nissan Frontier to you have and what’s your favorite thing about the truck?
Niice
Didn i miss the oil mileage? The oil looks pretty dark.
I changed it 5K all highway miles
For the cost of the oil and filter and the hassle of getting rid of the old oil, I just can’t justify changing my own oil anymore.
I’ve thought the same but it takes me 20 minutes to change the oil and costs me $15 for the filter and $40 for the oil. The last time I went to get a full synthetic oil change they charged me $80 and the time before that was at a dealer and it was $120. Plus, they don’t even top fluids off anymore. So for me it gives me the piece of mind knowing it’s done right, I’ve filled up my fluids and it’s good to go.
@@NickP4XWilderness wow, you must live in a very expensive place. I just got mine done at a dealership recently with a tire rotation and it was less than $50.
For me, I just don't trust them. Will they put on a new crush washer? Will they get oil all over the place? Will they torque the bolts back on properly? Will they use the correct oil? All these things would haunt me and there's too many oil change disaster stories out there to ignore.
@@RKDriver they will, they even sent me a video showing the truck up on the lift and the condition of the brakes, etc. you can barely buy the oil and filter for what it costs for them to do it, then you have to dispose of the oil.
I DO NOT TRUST ANY BODY to work on my equipment.
If I can do it... I will.
If you can... you should.
You get a chance to LOOK at the old oil and
check for metal.
You get a chance to LOOK all around your engine
and take a bunch of pictures if you want to,
and look at them later.
DO NOT TRUST ANY BODY to work on your equipment.
Always verify.
Tacoma better don’t have to do all this
Raptor better don’t have to deal with that tiny uncomfortable Tacoma that everyone has even your mother neighbor owns.
Hopefully you have one of the NA V6 Tacomas otherwise wait for the turbo to grenade.