How to improve your turntable or cassette deck with just 1 drop of oil
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- Опубликовано: 19 фев 2020
- Many inexpensive turntables and cassette decks have noisy motors, causing a buzzing sound and increased wow & flutter. Carefully opening up the motor and adding just one drop of oil is all it takes to make the motor smooth and silent and improve its performance.
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I recommend add oil to the front bushing too with needle or tooth pick.
I tried that first and it didn't fix the noise/vibration, but it's good to do anyway.
helped with mine.
Those clever guys at "Pyle Home" are pure geniuses. They've dealt with the problem of gear getting obsolete by putting "Contemporary" on the front!
KernArc I’ve always thought Pyle was the beginning of Pyle of s..t!
Brilliant video. Just repaired my first noisy motor on an old pioneer deck. Would not have dared to open it up without this guidance. Thanks
Those "fingers" are called brushes - that's what a "brushed motor" got its name from ;)
I remember some old motors that had actual _brushes_ (small brushes with a bunch of metal bristles). Needless to say, those weren't as reliable as a solid metal piece, which in turn isn't as good as brushless. I guess that's progress or something. 🤷
He just said metal fingers because he’s a big MF DOOM fan.
Fingers is better 🤣 and actually includes brushes. A brush is made from many fingers.
Dude, you never cease to amaze me with your audio device DIY repair know how.
Respect.
Keep up the great work!
I was surprised the brushes were happy to just move aside as the motor was reassembled, great video 👍
I was going to comment on that. My experience is they don't usually move aside that easy and if your not careful or devise a way to spread them enough to clear the washer and commutator you will bend them.
@@bradt.3555 Indeed... I did a "Oh no... You didn't just..."
Great info as always. I picked up a JIS screwdriver set based off your video and it's been a lifesaver at my repair shop.
For anyone here with a cassette player like a walkman and you need oil, id recommend the oil they use on sewing machines since that oil is meant for very small delicate parts, and then put that on the tiny mechanical parts and such.
Also i think im going to try this on my walkman and see if it makes a difference or if it makes the motor not work etc, will edit the comment if it works/doesnt etc
EDIT: after closely looking at the inside of the motor i can conclude that there would most likely be no benefit of oiling it, only thing to make a walkman quieter would be using a plastic friendly lubricant on the plastic gears
oh also i should include DO NOT put oil anywhere near the gears or the belt, it can start slipping, also dont add too much to the parts or the oil can come off onto the other parts like mobo etc
Another source is that little bottle you get with an electric razor but never use. Fine machine oil 👍
Had to do this with a Nakamichi BX-125 tape deck I have. It uses three of those exact same brushed DC motors in the transport mechanism.
This is such a common problem, I recall coming across forum threads where people were discussing alternative replacements for these motors. Modern brushless motors are infinitely more reliable.
Thanks for that. I always assumed they just sound like that. Never crossed my mind to oil it.
Thanks for the how to improve cassette deck and Turntable’s motors
I have done it and works great! Be careful not to damage the PCB inside. Thanks for this video.
Great video. Such a simple solution to such a common problem that should never have left the factories in that way....and most folk wouldn't have a clue why their deck made such a noise! Well done Kevin for this video; clear and simple instructions on how to fix these stupid manufacturing cost-cutting errors... Many thanks :-)
When transferring small bits of oil, use a finish nail or tooth pick and the molecular adhesion will let the drop ride right in to the hole.
4 year old video.... worled like a charm. As usuall, thanks for your work 🫶
Wish I saw this video when I had my 8-track apart. I did see that the backing came off, but didn't want to attempt, because of its age, and I didn't want to search for a replacement. Thanks! now IO know for the future!
I own this deck after trying to buy a restored quality Nak deck with no luck. All of them still had problems. I installed quality isolation feet, lubed the motors and play tapes through a Schiit Vidar amp and Emotiva loudspeakers. I think it sounds great and it is easy to work on. Belt changes, motor speed adjustments, etc are not obstructed by large circuit boards.
Very nice video I always oil the other side so thank for showing me the right way to oil the motor
Wow, not only did I learn how to quiet a motor I now know why I have a devil of a time working on electronics! Now to find a set of JIS screwdrivers!
Finally a video showing how to exactly do it, thank you.
Take notice of the kind of brushes used in each motor. Some have a surface of durable material on the end. They don't like oil on them. It screws up contact between the brushes and the rotor. A needle syringe or bottle works better than drop and hope.
Also, some motors, such as older Mabuchi offerings, will have a wider surface between the bearing and where the brushes ride. this was meant to shield the brush area from oil on the older models. These will not just slip together as the wide end (like a washer) will just push the brushes down and bend them away. In some cases we had to take off the pulley (brass or plastic) and pull the whole rotor out, assemble the rear to the rotor and put everything together the hard way. A long shaft motor is easier since the magnets will pull things off center. Takes practice, lots of it.
A better way:
We have taken to using a device known as a "pin vise" and very tiny drill bits to carefully drill a tiny hole just a hair off the exact center of the rear "bearing" rather than take the plastic "bearing" out. Oil can then be added through that hole. Works great and is far easier. You can get a pin vise and needle drills from a good hobby shop (especially one that specializes in trains) or from eBay or Amazon. Most pin vises come with a couple of bits. Cheap yet valuable!
A motor (Dremel) tool could be used but one little error and NO MORE MOTOR! There is WAY more control and precision with the hand tool.
How do you keep metal shavings from getting in the motor while drilling into it?
Thank you for this video! My second turntable (Stir it up) is finally making less noise. Strange that such a quite expensive record player uses these cheap motors.
Thank you for very interesting documentary.Normally when I do repairs on a cassette deck I just replace motor, there quite cheap around £5 U.K
What you really need is an oil especially made for motors. Zoom Spout oil is 3-in-one for motors is another. These oils have special additives that really help lubricate and maintain electric motors. I bought my Zoom Spout oil at Lowes. Works great!
I's my understanding that those motors used oilite(sp) bushings that were vacuum-impregnated with oil at the factory. That oil eventually must dissipate, I guess.
Awww little oily babies
My Sharp Cassette deck is doing this! Thanks for the tip.
for a more permanent lubrication, you should use silicone grease instead, and it won't attack plastics
I don't think the red 3 in 1 will attack plastic.
How can you insert the grease without making the brushes dirty?
@@detscadosu2465 I blasted a squirt of WD Silicone and it been great enver since (touch wood)
Thanks for the tip. I have a bottle of ball bearing lubricant that is used for sewing machine, roller skate, and skateboard ball bearings. The bottle uses a syringe needle to apply tiny drops of lubricant to bearings. Definitely comes in handy when I need to lubricate things in right places.
I used to work on vacuum cleaners when I was in high school, and used to repacck motor bearings.
Though brands like Kirby,, used to say everything was lubricated, and that nothing required any sort of lubrication, unless a motor was overhauled, or rebuilt, like what I used to do.
Though, if I was taking the machine apart, I greased the motor bearings, anyway, no matter what the manufacture said.
VWestlife: Very appreciable video. Thanks! I just repaired a weak sankyo-pioneer engine (PL-335). First I connected it to a 12v adapter immersed in alcohol for 25 minutes and pulled out a lot of dirt, but remained weak. Then I tried to remove the pulley to put it on another good motor and the whole shaft came out. Oops Finally when returning the axis to its place and without knowing how, it was fixed! A drop of 3 in 1 will be a thousand times better than the wd40. You're right!
Many motor shafts are just friction fits and will come out it you PRY the pulley. You need a miniature "gear puller" in that case. These grip the sides of the pulley and push against the shaft, taking all the strain off it.
In some situations you can use a heat gun ... brass pulleys of course... plastic ones usually will slide off ... both are most likely friction fit ... some of the brass ones where actually placed on the motor shaft while they were very very warm ... when it cooled down the friction grip increased there by making the pulley nice and tight
@@RuneTheFirst Appreciate a lot. Thanks man!
@@darinb.3273 Appreciate a lot. Thanks!
@@darinb.3273 Appreciate a lot. Thanks!
The song played out as if with virtually no wow and flutter, quite impressed. If I was doing a blind test, I'd have said it was a CD.
Jep. Just be sure not to drop on the belt. They desintegrate very fast (in a few days)
Lot of people say use talcum powder on belts. never tried.
I'll bear this in mind - thanks for another useful video!
Sintered bronze (oilite) bushings are always annoying. They actually WERE oiled at the factory, and they work because the cast bushing is porous. But when that reservoir runs out, the porous metal acts like sandpaper against the shaft, and will erode it quickly if you don't re-oil it right away. This happens all the time with modern household fans. Older fans used to have a reservoir sponge that you could add oil to, and the bushing would absorb this oil, but newer ones are made to be disposable, because that's where the profit is.
Nice! I guess I'm not the only one who's brave / crazy enough to take these little motors apart. I suspected most new motors weren't lubed at the factory.
Thanks for the help my Sony walkman made noise.... Like that u rock Kevin.
Man, that ending though! Nice video!
Hey that's a GREAT suggestion I never thought about my turntable motor its quiet but faintly noisy I may try with spare motor like you did. A single drop of oil works especially like I have model railroading as my other hobby . my dads Lionel train was very noisy and not as fast I put some TLC on it before and zoom took off like a rocket. However model trains like I have are older HO scale 2 required oil but the others need plastic compatible oil/ grease Thank you Kevin. PS when you were saying about difficulty of getting oil in the bearing area. Model trains have special bottoles with a needle tip that goes into hard to reach areas. :D
@vwestlife I did exactly that to my Craig turntable I found it had same thing no oil so put a drop in . as you said yes have to be very careful with finger brushes and its quieter til vamp up to 78 rpm but its not loud just normal. Did it first try and it worked Beautifully! Even put some oil on the bearing area for platter and top bearing of motor. I used Castle branded Endura. Its high temp grease but will basically never break down lol its not thick but its enough where its made to withstand 600 °F . I've used this on my 12 v cooler its an old Coleman 36 can type and it made it better then ever I've had it for 11 years now still going strong. Thank you again for suggestion!
12v cooler fan ..... thank you Matthew 👍, mine's been getting loud and ..... duh haha
I use sewing machine oil, one drop a year on my PL-516X keeps it running and running. It does have low power after 30 years so thinking about replacement.
“These motors are not for servicing” Vwestlife: hold my beer
Excellent video...great job!
I’ve always kept both of my Technics SL-1200MK2’s spindle bearings lubricated with the proper SWFO 010 oil. 😁👍🏻
This is what I do with noisy brushless DC (computer) fans. under the sticker on the back there is usually an access point to the bearing or sleeve. I use sewing machine oil, though. I'm sure it's pretty much the same.
I have a low to midrange Technics deck from the mid-80s that occasionally screeches horribly. I tracked the noise to the motor, so I think I'll try this when I get a chance and hope that fixes it.
Thanks for sharing with us. I wonder hoe did you measure the speed and stuff at the end of the video?
HI I enjoy your channel.i have a question i have a Yamaha tape deck KX W392 vintage 1994? i have had it for 4 years? recently on playback or record in auto reverse the sound will be fast or slow.any ideas on what might cause this? thanks in advance!
I am curious about the kind of oil to use. Since they seem like brushes, won't the oil insulate the contacts? Or should we use oil like the de-oxit lubricant for contacts/sliders that are conductive?
I hope this works on my Sony Dolby S cassette deck, It has 3 heads and sounds fantastic, but there is a lot of wow and flutter and the belts don't seem to be bent or too old, so I hope this helps. I also noticed the motor noise.
Great tip! I can't stress enough how important it is that these little contact fingers end up in the right spot when reassembling. They need to slip over the small plastic disc onto the thicker part if the shaft, which actually makes contact with the coils. I just learned this the hard way this evening when doing this hack (also modded the motor to now have external speed control pots like on more expensive turntables - works great ...after almost breaking the motor). At first the motor didnt spin and the motor control IC (the black thing outside the metal casing next to where the wires attach) got awfully hot within seconds. If you do this and your motor doesnt spin, KILL THE POWER INSTANTLY! I'm lucky I didn't burn out mine. So what happened? These contact fingers didn't properly align inside, got tangled and touched each other, which shorts the IC. Being an experienced electronics DIYer I quickly found out what was wrong, but I needed a few tries to put the motor together in the correct way, especially as the contact fingers then were not perfectly straight anymore.. Starting at an angle so I could actually see inside to make sure the shaft went in between and not over the contacts and then going as straight as possible did the trick. Also checking with a multimeter that the contacts weren't shorted again is a good idea before powering up the motor and potentially killing it.
Do you have any further tips on this procedure? Other than that, like I said, great tip. Love your videos.
I just saw a tip where you bend a piece of wire into a "U" that is narrow enough to fit into the two thin slots in the plastic housing that holds the fingers. You insert each end into the slots and slightly twist. It will separate the fingers wide enough for the commutator to fit between.
"It looks like the ending" was the best point, to finish the video.
Prior to looking, do you know if the Kenwood P-91 turntable would have this motor?
Interesting type of cassette deck brand,,ion,,. Looks very easy work to remove the motor assembly from the machine for repairs.
Thank you for the great video, I think this is just what I need to do! My question is how did you get the motor out in order to do this? I don't want to manhandle mine too much & break everything.
The motor on my Memorex 9199M (tape deck/turntable/CD player combo) is "attached" to the bottom of the platter.
Any advice for a repair novice like myself would be greatly appreciated @vwestlife .
I just got a Technics SL-Q200 and it doesn't have the buzzing sound but it makes this really weird, faint clicking sound when the platter is on. It's not coming from the speakers, and you don't even have to have the power on to hear it. It sounds as if something is rubbing against something. I looked online but couldn't find any solution. I've heard the most common method is to lubricate the spindle, which I plan on doing. But I don't know if it will work. And it's very nice except for that, and runs at a constant speed. I'm afraid if I lubricate it, that may change.
My Sony TC WR-635S has some motor issues like slow irregular FF, stopping randomly during continuous play.
Took it apart to oil the (quite noisy) motors buy I noticed that the cap doesn't come off because there is a solder joint between the cap and something beneath it.
Motors are MMI-6H2LWK. I tore on the cap quite heavily and it's got dents (still working phew).
Cleaned capstans, pinch rollers. Issue still persists.
Nice work... can you tell us where we can get a test tape from? What price would you expect to pay for one?
Do you know who makes the motor for the bang and Olufson ouverture casette deck? Mine has ceased and needs replacing, thank you.
I have an old Sony PS-T1 turntable. It plays 45 RPM very accurately. It plays 33 at around 40 RPMs. I found the plastic screw on the bottom of the turntable. I tried to turn it but it won't give. I also put a drop of oil just beneath the spindle. Any suggestions?
I have a question, for example in the LP 60xhp how can lubricate the motor?
"Body And Soul" by Ed Ames. I knew it was him, thanks for the confirmation Shazam!
Hello, when one of those adjustment potentiometers goes bad, is is possible to have it fixed, or is it better to replce the motor? thanks.
Great tip! I recently replaced the belts on my at the time unplayable Sony CFM-155 and oiled the motor as you show here. The motor sounds great and I don't notice anything amiss with it. The playback speed however is noticeably slower. I used a generic cassette belt assortment and matched them up to the original belts. Could this possibly be the result of opening/cleaning the motor? I tried using smaller and larger belts but to no avail. Should I adjust the motor speed or is there something I've possibly done wrong? Thanks!
Try adjusting the speed make sure that one of the belts ain't tite if that doesn't work out if you can try the original belts
Love the idea
Another awesome video. What JIS screwdriver set do you recommend to have on hand?
See my video about it: ruclips.net/video/cN6ytqSNzkI/видео.html
Great tips, thanks!
By the way, on these LED VUs we can see the dynamics compression of the volume (loudness war) applied. We can see that exactly where the volume sounds louder, the VUs are reduced to only the first 3 LEDs with no pumping. It just freezes there on those parts 😕
The LED meter on this deck is rather coarse -- the top end of the scale is in 3 dB steps, which represents a doubling of loudness. So smaller changes in volume won't show any difference on it.
You see those slots under the brushes? They are what you use to lift the brushes when you reassemble so you dont bend break etc the brushes
where can i get a jis screwdriver? maybe surplus city has some
Yes Sir, fixed both motors on my Yamaha cassette deck with 3 in 1.
Works on computers too.
Came across an unreliable computer - kept crashing. A drop of oil on the CPU fan sorted it.
I have a case fan in my computer which sounds like that (only louder, and only for a few minutes after startup). It's relatively new, and I tried oiling it to no avail. I think it is rattling against the case.
How do you get the brushes past the white plastic washer, without bending them beyond use??
They pop into place automatically when you reassemble the motor. I've taken apart and put back together these motors many times and the brush alignment has never been a problem.
What oil did you use for that video, I’ve got put oil in my deck too because it is squealing like a pig and I’m in a dilemma on what to use so I don’t mess up the motor
Those bearings are supposed to made of sintered bronze. Tiny bronze balls squished together under high pressure and high temperature, so the result is porous, then they submerge them in a special grease melted under high temperature, then put it in a vacuum chamber. The molten grease creeps into the tiny pores among the bronze balls, and that's the lubrication for the lifetime of the bearing. I assume in cheap motors, they don't use sintered bronze, just ordinary, machined bronze without lubrication.
How long does the oil last on those machines? Do they last just as long as the ones from the factory?
What’s the model of that pyle
Cassette player??
How about lubricating walkmans how do you do that?
Do you any demos on direct drive cassette decks?
Hello and thank you for video please share about computer program you using and what you checking? Thx
It's called WFGUI (Software Wow & Flutter Meter).
Nice software for Wow and Flutter indication. What test software is this? Thanks!
It's called WFGUI.
Many older motors such as those in fans and air conditioners were designed to be oiled on a regular basis. At least once a year. Newer fan motors use plastic parts and don't need the oiling. But you want to make sure you use motor oil.
Hello VWestLife! Thanks for the sweet vid! I have a whole bunch of cassettes that I want to listen to, but I need a new cassette player! Do you have any personal recommendations for a small portable player, or a larger, stationary player? Have a great day!
I really like the C.Crane VersaCorder, which is small enough to be portable but sounds good enough to be connected to a home stereo system: ruclips.net/video/xkJbmDcyIb0/видео.html It's a discontinued model, but is still cheap and plentiful on eBay.
I watch a lot of your videos and you seem very knowledgeable about most electronics keep up the good work! I do have a question though, I seem to get noise from certain records with horns (Jackie Gleason in particular) but no noise with other records. I've not had success 'playing them wet'. I'm using a technics turntable with a Grado Black needle. Do you have any other suggestions or are my records just worn out? Thanks for any suggestions!
You may need a new stylus, or maybe the tracking force, cartridge alignment, and/or anti-skating on your turntable are not adjusted correctly.
@@vwestlife thanks for reply. The stylus is only a month old and I have a digital scale for the tracking force. I've used an alignment tool and I have an acrylic platter to adjust the anti-skate. The only thing I haven't adjusted is the actual arm height but it looks level when it's playing.
I can hear a clicking in my speakers when my cassette deck is playing, both decks, whether there's a tape in it or not. I was gonna give this fix a shot. Or do you think it'll help or is that something else entirely? It's a Fisher CRW9225. Yeah, I know...
I have an old Pioneer PL 12 turntable that has a hole in which to add oil. Sewing machine oil works best.
What is the name of wow and flutter software
A real group 4/5 synthetic like Amsoil 30wt or white lithium grease works great for analog hi fi gear.
Good video. God bless
Do you do repairs or service cassette decks? If not do you know anyone or recommend someone who does? Thank you
I suppose you could even run a drop of oil down a small piece of wire into the hole, or use a cocktail stick and let one drop run into the hole?
Great video. Thanks. I am curious. Why didn’t you oil the front bearings too? It is an equal source of friction.
You can do that too, but in my experience it does not quiet a noisy motor. You need to take it apart and oil the inside bearing.
@@vwestlife How did you manage to put it back on without damaging the brushes?
it sounds great
I specifically use the blue label 3-in-1 as that's designed specifically for electric motors
This is sick!
Have been doing motors for years.....I use an electrical friendly lube and cleaner such as CRC 2-26 or some similar similar product...Often it is not necessary to remove the back of motor as it can be squirted through any available holes and will work itself around inside (this applies mainly to motors without internal speed control). Don't forget to work lube into the front of the motor too..
Motors in CD and DVD players can be treated like this too......If you have a sick CD or DVD player, first clean the lens..If still no good, clean and lube the motor ( mainly the spindle motor)!
It works for every motor, PC fans especially but not for long.
Hi nice video, is there a place where I can purchase replacement belts for cassette players?
sets of assorted belts are very cheap from Aliexpress, China.
Well, I did tried, but failed. I broke of -+ contacts of motor pcb (soldered them back directly though), however couldn't open and lift plastic circle plate. It was held by metal clips that wouldn't come off. Put it back together and back. Seems to work. A little noisy, but not unberable.
I took apart the tape motor in my boombox to oil it, and inside it was actually a smaller motor in a separate housing that was wired to the little circuit board. Not like the motors shown in this video
Plot twist: This is just another way to say we're having fried turntables and cassette decks for dinner.