A manual Frontier! My dad had a 4cyl manual as well. First manual car I drove. It was terrifying, but I got the hang of it with his careful teaching. Then I ended up buying my own 5 speed a few years later. I miss my dad. He was a great teacher like you Eric. Thanks!
What is the secret to South Main Auto's success? Is it the handsome mechanic? Is it the quick wit? Is it the comical relief? Is it the profuse use of panther pee and brake clean? No...it is the fact that professor Eric shows us exactly what he is thinking and illustrates exactly how to solve a problem. Thanks Mr. Obrachta. You are one of the best teachers around! Thanks for all the great information.
What's really interested in his videos, his approach to troubleshooting can be applied to many different Technologies you encounter in life. Not to mention life itself
This channel is why I love RUclips. Even smaller channels (no offense) like this one are just as good. Came across this channel via suggested videos and your method of walking through the analysis of each vehicle is unique. It's like having a GoPro on your mechanic who is really good at narrating himself.
Yes, he does an exceptional job narrating. I fix particle accelerators for a living, making isotopes for medical imaging, and I've been doing it for almost thirty years, but I still can't talk and think at the same time. I admire Eric's gift.
This may sound weird but I find your voice very relaxing. I have really bad anxiety and depression and I use your videos to help me fall asleep. I watch them every night and I fall right to sleep. I love tools and to work on cars so it's a win win. Some people need a fan or calm music well I need the south main auto channel! Thanks for the good sleep Eric O!
I agree. Thats why I love the unedited videos he does. Eric also has interesting comments he makes to himself, almost as tho he talks to himself out loud.
Three years ago, after my best friend took his own life, for a week I couldn't sleep, except when, while watching 'Mary Poppins' with headphones on, Mr. Banks began to sing... On the other hand, I pay attention to Eric! Afraid I'll miss something important, like and appearance from Mrs. O.! As the owner of three geriatric vehicles, watching car repair channels has become my newest vice. Fortunately I've found three good, honest mechanics to work on them, each with their own particular specialty, but what Eric o. has taught me helps me understand and appreciate what they do.
I'm so thankful that I found this video. I have been trying to figure out the issue for over a year. I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier. I changed the front sensor three times. I kept taking the sensors back to AutoZone thinking they were bad, but after watching this video I purchased the rear sensor and had my mechanic put it on because it was too hard for me to change out with my limited tool set. This fixed my problem after searching for over a year for what was causing the service engine light to stay on. My truck was able to pass the state emissions test, so this video really saved me a lot of money.
Eric's expertise wins the day again. No scan tool or 10 year UTI degree required. Just good ole fashion real world knowledge of seeing this problem before makes a successful repair. Great job!
I've seen other vehicles have the rear 02 set the fuel trim and use the front AFR'S to verify the stoichiometric 14.7. Also, if the front 02 is having a problem, the rear 02 can be used as a backup for the front. In a "V" engine, the other bank might be contributing to the overall stoichiometric operation. Great video! Keep 'em coming!
I liked the simplicity of just 4 regular 4 wire heated O2s. WRAFS's are a PITA. Got an 07 Murano now w P2A00. It got a cat back exhaust job at a muffler shop. Came it with the 1/2 O2s dragging on the floor and a few B1S2 codes. The whole bung the O2 screws into broke off. Back to the muffler shop, they welded the bung back on and now it's throwing the P2A00. The 1/1 was changed and it's still the same.
On systems with a wideband upstream and narrowband downstream it's a fairly common strategy to use the downstream sensor to trim/adapt/learn the stoichiometric lambda=1 point of the upstream sensor. This is because wideband sensors tend to have bigger uncertainty / drift in measuring the exact lambda 1 point (as well as the PCM's limitations of being able to measure the tiny voltage change between e.g. lambda 1 and 1.01), so it's useful to compare with the downstream narrowband which has a very precise and easy to detect voltage switch at exactly lambda 1, which you need to run very close to for best cat efficiency. In practice comparing up/downstream is a bit more complicated due to having a cat between them which obviously smooths out the AFR fluctuations, so the PCM is probably doing some kind of long term average of the downstream signal to see if it is offset compared to the upstream(e.g. if upstream is controlling to what it thinks is 50:50 rich/lean time but downstream sees 60:40 rich/lean time, or is continuously slightly rich/lean you might judge that the upstream sensor reading is offset rich/lean from true lambda 1 and flag a fault)..... This of course only works if you're sure the downstream is actually reporting good data! I guess if 2 sensors disagree which one do you blame? If you notice an up/downstream mismatch faster than you notice the downstream not responding/low amplitude, the PCM makes the wrong call, and once it flags an upstream sensor fault it might go open loop/inhibit the downstream diagnostics so it will never detect the stuck downstream signal.....
Doctor said i had to take it easy today after having a nuclear heart test. Came home and you posted a video. I know how i'm relaxing for the next 25 min. Have a great day Eric O, and thanks for helping me pass the time.
I don't relax watching this videos, I get angry and want to smash the manufactures and engineers that unleashed the unholy turds of on all us sheeple :)
Love the fast forward taking the O2 sensor out and back in. Thought that was funny. But again killer diagnosis. Had a friend with same issue and replaced AF sensor and still had same issue. Now I tell him what the real issue is. Nice job pal
thanks again to south main auto for taking the time to do these videos I watch every single one I can great job as always learn so much for this channel!!!!!!
it is quite common for modern vehicles to also use the rear O2 for fuel trim / mixture control...depending on the vehicle the "influence" of the rear O2 varies... but it´s no longer just a monitoring sensor... number 1 priority for the ECU is to make the cat work in an optimal operating window... I can related to that on my vehicle and had issues like this before... that´s why I recommend changing both O2s at the same time, not just one... that way you have a better running engine... O2 sensor wear out, don´t run the rear O2 for ever if it does not show a code In this case I think the rear O2 was just ´making enough signal to not trigger a error code but it was stuck on the rich side and the ECU pulled away fuel to compensate which triggered a AFR code... the ECU might not be able to do any further / deeper diagnosis like comparing front / rear O2... other ECUs might be different
I actually called my local Nissan dealership and asked them your question... To which they said that the two are related... To which I responded as to why it seems this is only peculiar to Nissan vehicles. He told me, (some mechanic named Tim) that it isn't peculiar to Nissan and also that when the voltage to a rear sensor is bad it will sometimes set a code for the front sensor. I told him this must be why they encourage people to replace all 4 at the same time. I might need to check my rear sensors now.
I had this exact issue on a 2009 Murano. Your video helped me determine that it was also a downstream sensor issue. Excellent video, I replaced the sensor and now can get smogged.
Thank you so much for this video. Another freak Nissan code sorted out . I’ve changed out two upstream sensors already because of this code. All the while it was downstream problem. The money light indeed lol. Thanks for taking the time to explain and test .
Thanks for the video Eric. Just had both my vehicles run thru NYS inspection today no issues. Oh yes and by the way have been voting everyday. Coffee much arrived waiting on T-shirt tomorrow. ❤️
Ahhhh glad to see another vid posted! Been off work for over a month now due to foot injury and SMA vids keep me going! (That's why I haven't got around to sending you any swag yet I emailed you about a while ago lol) Keep up the good work Dr O!!
I just learned that the O2 sensor code I was getting was because of the leak in my manifold and went through hell trying to get that sucker off without a torch. You have to get these vids out sooner! hehe Thanks !
I replaced the muffler and in doing so, broke one of the studs on the wye connection. Replaced that too but I think it didn't seat properly. I can hear a little leak and the code came up almost immediately. I believe it is more than three feet from the sensor but I changed it and cleared the code and it came back. This is on a 98 Dodge Durango.
EVERYONE knows the problem is the rear sensor when scan code indicates front sensor, LOL. I wonder how many ECM's get replaced AFTER replacing that front sensor once or TWICE because they neglect to look at ALL the data stream? You've saved a lot of souls from the horrors of needlessly replacing good sensor(s) and then a much more expensive component (ECM) which unfortunately, would've put them back to square one with the same problem. Many blessings and continued success for SMA.
This shouldn't really happen with competent technician because the next steps is to verify rear O2 sensor fuel trim data according to voltage. A easy snap throttle test will also reveal Front O2 sensor function.
@@Me-em9hy sat·ire the use of humor, irony, exaggeration, or ridicule to expose and criticize people's stupidity or vices, Stay in school and good luck...
@tinkerwest not satire...especially when u feel the unjustified need to use all caps and when satire does apply to your comment. Nice try to weasel out of looking like a tool
Like you say "Exhaust" sensors tattle on each other, I could be wrong but it would seem that Nissan decided that they only needed the rear to throw heater codes, the front AFR sensor was recognizing that the rear O2 said it was running lean/rich thus the air fuel ratio was "wrong". Just my best guess...
FYI I'm a Nissan tech and we even have a hard time figuring out what's actually wrong when it comes to lean codes, o2 codes, etc. Even when we do figure it out and change an o2 sesor or a mad, a week later the customer gets a new code for the next thing. Nissans are tricky.
As a retired software developer , your analysis of a defective software module is almost there. Software should have set a P0141...Didnt. Hey #NISSAN. Fix ya problem!! SMA found it, why not you.
It's cool to see that Power Probe have added driver tests to their algorithm, adding a resistance-protected way to send a signal to the computer without fear of smoking the computer. Even so, I get this creepy feeling every time I even think about doing that.
I gotta tell ya, you know I am a test light guy but I am liking this snazy PP4. Tell yah what, send me your mailing address and I will send you one in the mail. Send it to my email :) No joke I will, then you can tell us you think. I checked your page and do not see an email on there...
I'd say the AFR is triggered becasue it doesnt get the feedback from the rear sensor and thus it the computer thinks the front is faulty. This is exactly why a scantool is your friend and a simple code reader is some times useless.
Working on an Altima yesterday... rear O2 was the culprit in my scenario too. Just sluggish & slow to react. Oddly, even though it was a 98, I had to use both DLCs to view live data. I think a 14pin plus the regular 16pin. Great info as usual. Definitely a good guide.
@23:00 I have found even cable driven throttles will do the same, if the relearn wasn't done properly after a battery swap. I literally had this issue on a 94 Corolla, as after the warm up sequence it would bog down then surge as you were describing with this guy. The fix was to disconnect the battery or pull the ECM fuse. Then start it up and let it idle on its own for about 15mns, although I let it go for about 30 mns while doing a "pre" safety inspection. Car is a total POS, but I wanted to give customer honest breakdown of what it needs just to pass. I'll let him decide what he wants now. 2 yrs past due. Lol Although it runs a heck of a lot better now. ''
I don't know if that answers your question exactly but hey we're dealing with a whole extreme set of variables considering the nebulae of aftermarket parts and their varying degrees of quality and other considerations.
Nissans & Chryslers always take FOREVER with my Autel. Really aggravating. Yours seems MUCH faster than mine, though. I've been trying to get a drive cycle to run in my POS '07 Silverado for roughly 18 months now! I used to hate Nissan pretty bad ... but GM has knocked them out of 1st place! Congrats GM, you jackalopes! 😡 Anyway ... great vid here! I need to remember the voltages on those newfangled AFR sensors. Of course automakers made them work backwards - I expect nothing less! My brother and I started working on his step son's '02 Ram 1500 this weekend. After we were done, I swept and SHOVELED 20 lbs. of rust chunks out of the shop, HAHAHA! She's a little crusty! We threw 8 wing-wang ignition coils & plugs in her, and repaired a split PCV hose waaaay down the back of the throttle body, right up against the firewall just about. That cured the 0300, plus misses on 2 & 4. Hacked off the rotted out hardware for the old Westin step rails, then removed what was left of the exhaust system by hand, lol - the back half of the Flowmaster copy just completely opened up, like they forgot to weld it, lol, due to all the rust. Would've made a nice training piece at a technical school - perfect cutaway. Grabbed some scrap pipe out back and figured out how we're going to cobble the system together with the gigantic Walker OE style muffler, with the wooden flatbed we'll be building for it. Next project is to cut the bed off - not a single bolt will come out there, guaranteed! This bed has been bondo'ed and riveted with sheetmetal 3x over it's life - now, there's nothing left to repair, HAHAHA! Had to put the truck in 4 low to get it on the lift, since it was dragging the left rear along for the ride. Looked to have fairly new calipers, but the rotors were trashed with rust, and the e-brake cables were rotted in half in 3 places, and looked to be hanging up on the left side. My brother's step son is gonna be working some overtime this month ... 😉 On Sunday, we made our weekly pilgrimage into suburbia to our old home where our dad still lives. We grabbed a bunch of lobsters and had a great feast. Before that, I had to fix BOTH of their less-than-1-year-old HONDA lawnmowers - welcome to the 21st Century! When we lost Honda to the cheapout scheme, it's all downhill fellas!! The drive system was screwed up due to corrosion. Managed to inadvertently find out there's an oil filled gearbox on the thing too - like a mini differential. They put something that nice on this thing, then throw crap metal all around it so it rusts! Man, I really need to build a time machine! I'd buy up 1,000 50's, 60's, 70's, & 80's cars, sell most, and keep a few 50's ones around for daily drivers, and RETIRE!! ... and fly my brand new Lear jet to all the warm places with the money I made. 😁 Tomorrow's project is swapping over the internals from the OE lower unit on dad's Suzuki 20HP outboard, to a eBay unit - my brother tore the skeg right off the bottom after running it wide open through a pile of rocks, HAHAHA! Was in the middle of a lake up in ME - you'd never expect rocks to be there, unmarked ... but there they were, along with 2 tons of aluminum shrapnel from it's last 1,500 victims. Should be an easy job. Just forward and reverse. Plus, I had the lower unit off in literally 10 minutes - super easy, unlike some Mercury outboards I've worked on before. Hopefully I can install just the new bearings and gaskets, and make this thing run this week. Want to test it out on a local river, hehehe - 20HP on a little 14' aluminum boat - it's like driving a Ferrari down that winding river. 😁 OH, almost forgot! Just received the two Astro 40sl MAX lights I ordered - these things are friggin AWESOME!! Face-melting bright! Finally some modern technology in my shop to keep my Autel company, hahaha!
I was doing a BMW E92 for a friend the other day where i came across exactly the same situation, didn’t make sense but since I’ve seen it previously on other cars i decided to go with what the live data is telling me. My friend and another ex-bmw tech pulled their hair thinking im crazy to go against what the DTC is saying..
Great video and I've learned plenty by mistake...sticks in the memory banks better. Like to see the idiot in the commercial for that cheap scan tool so the mechanics don't rip you off tackle this and watch how he realizes he is completely clueless. Nice teaching video!
Mr. O! nice diag! Just a quick tip for unscewing the o2.... been doing that for 15 years and never failed.... bring the o2 bong cherry red, and cool it down with a garden hose.... You can almost unscrew it with your bare hands! Comming from the guy that told you about the tire valve stems to keep brake fluid from dripping all over! ;)
I see it's been mentioned, but I've seen it as well. I believe part of the algorithm is for the pcm to compare readings from both and interpret "who's lying", so to speak. While I understand you can't program the pcm to anticipate every situation, a dead sensor should be easy for the pcm to identify. Thanks for the entertainment.
I'd assume it doesn't have dead sensor detection, has anyone ever seen any of them spit a code for the rear O2? other than other models where it did and was the upstream then :))
There are codes for the rear O2 sensor (P013*'s and P015*'s) which you would think should trip instead of the 2A00 for the AFR. I would accept a false code if both were working but one was slow and the PCM misinterpreted which one was faulty. Still sounds like bad programming on Nissans part. Not to mention, a whole lot of trouble for the for the armchair mechanics and parts cannon enthusiasts.
thinking about it further, I wonder if it was intermittent or worked when really hot (heater to sensor contact issue) or the sensor circuit just just bad. that could make the ECM think the upstream is having issue and go for catalyst protection mode, so many cats have been killed by failed sensors and misfire codes not being set, it's uncanny ;)
Excellent video. For a home user just working on their own car, would just driving the vehicle for a few days accomplish the same thing as that elaborate system Nissan wanted, clearing the fuel trim tables, holding the RPM at a certain speed for 20 minutes etc?
Hey Vince, I too thought maybe it was a scanner/data issue at first. Maybe the Autel misinterpreting something...but the code is the code really and it's all about that AFR. This got me thinking a bit...what if the PCM trusts the rear 02 more than the AFR and compares the 2 for rationality....who wins? In this case it looks to be the rear 02. Non coding rear 02 wins the trust test and flags the AFR...now, to figure out why the rear 02 didn't code first....hmmmmmmm.....~Mike Becker~
I am glad I have found this video my 07 Murano gave me a P2A00 code so I went and replaced to AFR sensor which it needed it was bad but after replacing it keeps giving me the same code this is a second AFR since I thought it was bad. Performance of my Murano seems better after new AFR sensor but code keeps coming up. But base on this video seems like we may have same issue so will check on this.
Unknown from the video of run time. 0.28 volts on rear 02 indicates it hasn’t heated up yet. Nissans do the like to heat up a rear O2 when cold. I’ve had them take 30 minutes to heat up in the shop.
Your video fixed my issue p2a00 problem i replaced top upstream sensor 1 but it still popped the code, replaced the downstream o2 sensor 2 and it fixed check engine light.... obd2 scanner said sensor 1 but it was sensor 2..... thanks alot for the info
Just need to add some things. I just got done diagnosing this code. Monitor the AFR, rear 02 and rear 02 heater pids at minimum. 2.2 volts should be lambda for AFR. 0.28 volts on rear O2 is a bias voltage. Like my previous comment Nissan does not like to heat up a cold O2 via its heater. Must drive the vehicle until the heater PID indicates on. Strategy that causes this code is simple. The PCM wants the catalyst at a certain temp for performance and life of catalyst. Using the rear O2 sensor will tell the PCM how well the catalyst is working. PCMs goal(generic) is 0.65-0.85 volts on rear 02. The result of this when there is a issue is that the front AFR will indicate rich while the O2 indicates lean. On the vehicle ai diagnosed the exhaust had leaks near O2. Blocking off the tailpipe to force exhaust out of those leaks temporarily corrected the issue. Pin hole leaks that cannot be felt or heard is the number one cause of this code. Using a small amount of shop air, no more than 5 psi to pressurize the exhaust system and then spray the exhaust with soapy water. Do this when the exhaust is cold. This will show all the pin hole leaks.
Hey Eric, were you using the Maxisys ms908 or ms908P? One other question did you find when you updated the unit that you lost some vehicle manufacturers features were reduced, I heard there were some complaints about that especially concerning the Ford features
Actually the programmer pooped the bed. 1+1=3 in their world. I am at best a shade tree mechanic. However I have 40 years of IT experience. A high percentage of programmers aren't potty trained.
It sets the afr code For the rear o2 sensor failing because the pcm maps the code on that circuit that afr circuit is also running the rear o2 sensor @South Main Auto Repair
I can explain. The Nissan engineer responsible for setting that code in the ECU software just flat screwed up. This what you call a bug in the software world but Nissan perhaps isn't worried enough about it to issue a TSB or fix it with an ECU update. You don't usually see these kinds of problems with Honda, Toyota, or Subaru.
Hey Eric, awesome video! Crazy, I just took a peek at service info for that code...nothing stated about the rear 02 for a P2A00. I'm going to look into this more once i'm back in the office tomorrow. Seems like an odd issue. Wonder what the Nissan scanner would show? Could it be an translation issue with the Autel? Maybe the front AFR is compared against the rear 02 for rationality? As long as the rear 02 hasn't coded the PCM trusts it to test rationality against the front AFR? Speculation at best at this point... Either way, nice fixing an "AFR issue" with a standard old 02 sensor! ~Mike Becker P.S. Nice choice on the replacement sensor :) Thanks for NOT adding more "never seize" to that new sensor!
Ummmmm call Kieth haha. I am not sure why they work like this it is just one of those things I have been burned on and never forgot. Perhaps Becker over at Wells may know? They make the sensors after all :)
haha its all PFM...some pure freaking magic up in here! Gut feeling says the PCM trusts the good ole' rear 02 more than it trusts the AFR....so if the AFR is being compared for rationality against the rear 02 and the rear 02 hasn't coded...then the AFR looks bad...it's all about who the computer trusts more. ~Mike Becker
Was wondering why that truck didnt have any rust then you said it had just been Krown’d. Looks like regular application of that works! Most of your repair jobs involve fighting rust in order to do them. Great video!
I recently went through a similar problem with an 07 Camry. Got a code for a rich condition in rear o2 sensor. It turned out to be the front AFR that was bad.
Okay, the code gets set for the front I think because it's the one that is still responsive and goes "out" compared to the dead one. I think this is especially true because the dead one was showing 0.28 and not a completely dead 0.
Hi, I'd just like to throw something out there, for comment. I own a 2006 Cadillac DTS, w/130K miles. Started getting P0420 codes, a few K miles ago, would set code at between 15-30 miles intervals! Action I took to correct this PROBLEM. #1.Started using " NO ETHENAL " Premium gas .#2.Started using Archoil AR6200, gas treatment . After a few, tanks of gas /Treatment, I stopped setting the P0420 code. Last code set , 300 miles ago ! Cost of gas is high, but worries down! P.S. I also use Archoil AR9100, in engine oil. FYI, I figured this is in the ( general) O2 senser/ catalytic converter area ! I know a lot of worry stopped when it stopped setting the P0420 cade .
I have a 2005 Nissan 350z. I ran into a similiar issue were I had trouble getting the O2 Sensor and Catalyst Monitors to a ready status. I tried going with the drive cycles a few times and that didn't work. I used the Torque Pro App with a Bluetooth OBDII Wireless Scanner to figure out the culprit of this issue. The car also threw a pending code twice when I performed those driving cycles. It turned out that the Driver Side Rear O2 Sensor was going bad. The way I found out was I looked at the voltage readings for the front and rear O2 Sensors and I noticed that the voltage reading for the driver side rear o2 sensor was stuck at a particular voltage reading regardless of engine load just like in the video with the Nissan Frontier. I ordered a new O2 Sensor and I was able to get all of the monitors to show a ready status.
Nissan has some other strange things as well. For example, even though service information says that the TCM gets engine RPM from the crank sensor, it does not. It comes from the cam sensor. So mid 2000s 3.5 v6 Nissans with a P0340 cam code can act like a bad trans or TCM. Also if a customer keeps driving with a bad wheel speed sensor one of the solenoids in the HCU can remain energized which burns out the transistor in the module.
I don't know if this channel is monitored anymore but I'm assuming by rear O2, you mean after the catalytic converter? I noticed on the scan tool that it said bank 1 sensor 2. I'm wondering if this is the same issue with my '07 Altima 3.5L? I have a cheap scanner so hopefully it can check output voltage. But I did see in the live data that my Bank 1 Short Term Fuel Trim is above 15% and Long Term doesn't move. At least not at idle. It's tough to see when driving.
I got the same code in my 09 370z and it has kept coming back even after changing the bank 1 upstream AFR sensor so I guess now I know I should check my rear O2 sensor. It came on after getting an aftermarket clutch installed so maybe the shop didn't connect the sensor all the way correctly when putting everything back together or maybe the sensor is dead. Just got myself an OBD2 sensor with live data capability so I will also check to see if it behaves like the one in this video.
@@tcblackg35 unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to figure it out 😅 I thought I had figured it out but the light would come back intermittently and when I went to get a smog check it didn't pass. I didn't get a chance to recheck because I got into a wreck and the car was totaled. The readings pointed to bad rear 02 sensor or bad cat, but I didn't get the chance to figure that out before the wreck. Sorry
I have the same issue on my 2006 Altima popped on about 300miles after I replaced both up and down stream sensors. I keep the old sensors so I popped the upstream back on their cleared code and it came back.... Now I do have a small exhaust leak right near Downstream 02 sensor (Flexpipe) So I'm going to replace exhaust from Manifold back and see were I stand (since its old and somewhat rust anyway.... was UNAWARE the rear could make this code pop-up
exhaust leaks are always bad, anything leak upstream or within roughly three feet downstream of any rear O2 sensor can cause reading change. exhaust flows in pulses, between the pulses is a vacuum/negative pressure, that pulls oxygen rich outside air in and throws the sensor reading off, which throws off multiple things :)
FYI, I also ordered a data logger after watching this video has I am an engineer and really didn't know a OBD captures and can display as much data about engine specs... Again, thanks
This video was very enlightening to me. I learned what a horrible singer you are Eric! haha Cool trick to know to force the 2.5 Nissan monitors to run, damn near professional if you ask me.
I know on Hondoo's and Acura's the initial fuel trims are based off of the rear o2. Perhaps the old Nissan is the same? Perhaps it didn't realize the o2 was dead and thought the AFR was NFG!?
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A manual Frontier! My dad had a 4cyl manual as well. First manual car I drove. It was terrifying, but I got the hang of it with his careful teaching. Then I ended up buying my own 5 speed a few years later. I miss my dad. He was a great teacher like you Eric. Thanks!
What is the secret to South Main Auto's success? Is it the handsome mechanic? Is it the quick wit? Is it the comical relief? Is it the profuse use of panther pee and brake clean? No...it is the fact that professor Eric shows us exactly what he is thinking and illustrates exactly how to solve a problem. Thanks Mr. Obrachta. You are one of the best teachers around! Thanks for all the great information.
Actually, it's Mr. Obrochta!!! :)
I actually thought the success was because of MRS O and Trinity!
What's really interested in his videos, his approach to troubleshooting can be applied to many different Technologies you encounter in life. Not to mention life itself
This channel is why I love RUclips. Even smaller channels (no offense) like this one are just as good. Came across this channel via suggested videos and your method of walking through the analysis of each vehicle is unique. It's like having a GoPro on your mechanic who is really good at narrating himself.
Yes, he does an exceptional job narrating. I fix particle accelerators for a living, making isotopes for medical imaging, and I've been doing it for almost thirty years, but I still can't talk and think at the same time. I admire Eric's gift.
This may sound weird but I find your voice very relaxing. I have really bad anxiety and depression and I use your videos to help me fall asleep. I watch them every night and I fall right to sleep. I love tools and to work on cars so it's a win win. Some people need a fan or calm music well I need the south main auto channel! Thanks for the good sleep Eric O!
I agree. Thats why I love the unedited videos he does. Eric also has interesting comments he makes to himself, almost as tho he talks to himself out loud.
Three years ago, after my best friend took his own life, for a week I couldn't sleep, except when, while watching 'Mary Poppins' with headphones on, Mr. Banks began to sing...
On the other hand, I pay attention to Eric! Afraid I'll miss something important, like and appearance from Mrs. O.!
As the owner of three geriatric vehicles, watching car repair channels has become my newest vice. Fortunately I've found three good, honest mechanics to work on them, each with their own particular specialty, but what Eric o. has taught me helps me understand and appreciate what they do.
SMA has the best detective show going. I can't get enough.
I'm so thankful that I found this video. I have been trying to figure out the issue for over a year. I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier. I changed the front sensor three times. I kept taking the sensors back to AutoZone thinking they were bad, but after watching this video I purchased the rear sensor and had my mechanic put it on because it was too hard for me to change out with my limited tool set. This fixed my problem after searching for over a year for what was causing the service engine light to stay on. My truck was able to pass the state emissions test, so this video really saved me a lot of money.
Eric's expertise wins the day again. No scan tool or 10 year UTI degree required. Just good ole fashion real world knowledge of seeing this problem before makes a successful repair. Great job!
UTI 😂
Simply the best Eric o, from an addicted Brit over the pond I just can’t stop watching these vids, fantastic again.
I've seen other vehicles have the rear 02 set the fuel trim and use the front AFR'S to verify the stoichiometric 14.7. Also, if the front 02 is having a problem, the rear 02 can be used as a backup for the front. In a "V" engine, the other bank might be contributing to the overall stoichiometric operation.
Great video! Keep 'em coming!
I liked the simplicity of just 4 regular 4 wire heated O2s. WRAFS's are a PITA. Got an 07 Murano now w P2A00. It got a cat back exhaust job at a muffler shop. Came it with the 1/2 O2s dragging on the floor and a few B1S2 codes. The whole bung the O2 screws into broke off. Back to the muffler shop, they welded the bung back on and now it's throwing the P2A00. The 1/1 was changed and it's still the same.
On systems with a wideband upstream and narrowband downstream it's a fairly common strategy to use the downstream sensor to trim/adapt/learn the stoichiometric lambda=1 point of the upstream sensor. This is because wideband sensors tend to have bigger uncertainty / drift in measuring the exact lambda 1 point (as well as the PCM's limitations of being able to measure the tiny voltage change between e.g. lambda 1 and 1.01), so it's useful to compare with the downstream narrowband which has a very precise and easy to detect voltage switch at exactly lambda 1, which you need to run very close to for best cat efficiency. In practice comparing up/downstream is a bit more complicated due to having a cat between them which obviously smooths out the AFR fluctuations, so the PCM is probably doing some kind of long term average of the downstream signal to see if it is offset compared to the upstream(e.g. if upstream is controlling to what it thinks is 50:50 rich/lean time but downstream sees 60:40 rich/lean time, or is continuously slightly rich/lean you might judge that the upstream sensor reading is offset rich/lean from true lambda 1 and flag a fault)..... This of course only works if you're sure the downstream is actually reporting good data! I guess if 2 sensors disagree which one do you blame? If you notice an up/downstream mismatch faster than you notice the downstream not responding/low amplitude, the PCM makes the wrong call, and once it flags an upstream sensor fault it might go open loop/inhibit the downstream diagnostics so it will never detect the stuck downstream signal.....
Doctor said i had to take it easy today after having a nuclear heart test. Came home and you posted a video. I know how i'm relaxing for the next 25 min. Have a great day Eric O, and thanks for helping me pass the time.
Ooooooooo nuclear medicine is fascinating.
Fukashima
I don't relax watching this videos, I get angry and want to smash the manufactures and engineers that unleashed the unholy turds of on all us sheeple :)
Hope all came out ok. Just had a stress test recently myself.
Yep, been there with the test, the doctor sat on the far side of the room. I guess he didn't want to glow in the dark. best wishes
Love the fast forward taking the O2 sensor out and back in. Thought that was funny. But again killer diagnosis. Had a friend with same issue and replaced AF sensor and still had same issue. Now I tell him what the real issue is. Nice job pal
Really love that PowerProbe... I can see why it's becoming a favorite.
thanks again to south main auto for taking the time to do these videos I watch every single one I can great job as always learn so much for this channel!!!!!!
it is quite common for modern vehicles to also use the rear O2 for fuel trim / mixture control...depending on the vehicle the "influence" of the rear O2 varies... but it´s no longer just a monitoring sensor... number 1 priority for the ECU is to make the cat work in an optimal operating window... I can related to that on my vehicle and had issues like this before... that´s why I recommend changing both O2s at the same time, not just one... that way you have a better running engine... O2 sensor wear out, don´t run the rear O2 for ever if it does not show a code
In this case I think the rear O2 was just ´making enough signal to not trigger a error code but it was stuck on the rich side and the ECU pulled away fuel to compensate which triggered a AFR code... the ECU might not be able to do any further / deeper diagnosis like comparing front / rear O2... other ECUs might be different
I actually called my local Nissan dealership and asked them your question... To which they said that the two are related... To which I responded as to why it seems this is only peculiar to Nissan vehicles. He told me, (some mechanic named Tim) that it isn't peculiar to Nissan and also that when the voltage to a rear sensor is bad it will sometimes set a code for the front sensor. I told him this must be why they encourage people to replace all 4 at the same time. I might need to check my rear sensors now.
I had this exact issue on a 2009 Murano. Your video helped me determine that it was also a downstream sensor issue. Excellent video, I replaced the sensor and now can get smogged.
Great video Eric O , thats how you do a thorough diagnosis and repair.
Thank you so much for this video. Another freak Nissan code sorted out . I’ve changed out two upstream sensors already because of this code. All the while it was downstream problem. The money light indeed lol. Thanks for taking the time to explain and test .
You are awesome!!!! The best Auto Repair Man on You Tube. I can't say how you have inspired me to make auto repair my future. Thanks
Thanks for the video Eric. Just had both my vehicles run thru NYS inspection today no issues. Oh yes and by the way have been voting everyday. Coffee much arrived waiting on T-shirt tomorrow. ❤️
Another excellent video. It is always a treat to watch how you diag & interpret what the scan tool is telling you. Thanks, Dr. O .
Another great video and another guy cutting grass in the background...The neighbors must just wait till Eric is filming before they start mowing lol.
Ahhhh glad to see another vid posted! Been off work for over a month now due to foot injury and SMA vids keep me going! (That's why I haven't got around to sending you any swag yet I emailed you about a while ago lol)
Keep up the good work Dr O!!
I just learned that the O2 sensor code I was getting was because of the leak in my manifold and went through hell trying to get that sucker off without a torch.
You have to get these vids out sooner! hehe
Thanks !
DOH, any leak upstream of an O2 or downstream roughly three feet of the rear most sensor can throw things off!
I replaced the muffler and in doing so, broke one of the studs on the wye connection. Replaced that too but I think it didn't seat properly. I can hear a little leak and the code came up almost immediately. I believe it is more than three feet from the sensor but I changed it and cleared the code and it came back. This is on a 98 Dodge Durango.
EVERYONE knows the problem is the rear sensor when scan code indicates front sensor, LOL. I wonder how many ECM's get replaced AFTER replacing that front sensor once or TWICE because they neglect to look at ALL the data stream? You've saved a lot of souls from the horrors of needlessly replacing good sensor(s) and then a much more expensive component (ECM) which unfortunately, would've put them back to square one with the same problem. Many blessings and continued success for SMA.
This shouldn't really happen with competent technician because the next steps is to verify rear O2 sensor fuel trim data according to voltage. A easy snap throttle test will also reveal Front O2 sensor function.
Everyone? You managed to survey all people on the planet
@@Me-em9hy sat·ire
the use of humor, irony, exaggeration, or ridicule to expose and criticize people's stupidity or vices,
Stay in school and good luck...
@tinkerwest not satire...especially when u feel the unjustified need to use all caps and when satire does apply to your comment. Nice try to weasel out of looking like a tool
@@Me-em9hy Apologies if I used all caps, however, it doesn't negate the fact only an imbecile would literally take "Everyone" out of context. 🤭
Like you say "Exhaust" sensors tattle on each other, I could be wrong but it would seem that Nissan decided that they only needed the rear to throw heater codes, the front AFR sensor was recognizing that the rear O2 said it was running lean/rich thus the air fuel ratio was "wrong". Just my best guess...
Off to buy a rear O2 sensor now. Just replaced the front one because of this code. Light came back on later in the day.
Did it work?
FYI I'm a Nissan tech and we even have a hard time figuring out what's actually wrong when it comes to lean codes, o2 codes, etc. Even when we do figure it out and change an o2 sesor or a mad, a week later the customer gets a new code for the next thing. Nissans are tricky.
Learn something new every day huh? Thanks for the video.
As a retired software developer , your analysis of a defective software module is almost there. Software should have set a P0141...Didnt. Hey #NISSAN. Fix ya problem!! SMA found it, why not you.
It's cool to see that Power Probe have added driver tests to their algorithm, adding a resistance-protected way to send a signal to the computer without fear of smoking the computer. Even so, I get this creepy feeling every time I even think about doing that.
I gotta tell ya, you know I am a test light guy but I am liking this snazy PP4. Tell yah what, send me your mailing address and I will send you one in the mail. Send it to my email :) No joke I will, then you can tell us you think. I checked your page and do not see an email on there...
Thanks, Eric! I sent you a PM, please let me know if you don't get it.
Dave
13:22 "Can't be stuck if it's molten" - Words to live by ;-)>
I'd say the AFR is triggered becasue it doesnt get the feedback from the rear sensor and thus it the computer thinks the front is faulty. This is exactly why a scantool is your friend and a simple code reader is some times useless.
good job as always. I won't lie I felt a little weird when you got close and wanted to snuggle lol
Working on an Altima yesterday... rear O2 was the culprit in my scenario too. Just sluggish & slow to react. Oddly, even though it was a 98, I had to use both DLCs to view live data. I think a 14pin plus the regular 16pin.
Great info as usual. Definitely a good guide.
@23:00 I have found even cable driven throttles will do the same, if the relearn wasn't done properly after a battery swap. I literally had this issue on a 94 Corolla, as after the warm up sequence it would bog down then surge as you were describing with this guy.
The fix was to disconnect the battery or pull the ECM fuse. Then start it up and let it idle on its own for about 15mns, although I let it go for about 30 mns while doing a "pre" safety inspection. Car is a total POS, but I wanted to give customer honest breakdown of what it needs just to pass. I'll let him decide what he wants now. 2 yrs past due. Lol Although it runs a heck of a lot better now. ''
You're a good man Charlie Brown! Love the videos.
Awesome video! As I recall the Toyota's are 3.3V not the Subi. Excellent use of the PP to drive the signals hi/lo
I don't know if that answers your question exactly but hey we're dealing with a whole extreme set of variables considering the nebulae of aftermarket parts and their varying degrees of quality and other considerations.
I need to get a sound byte copy of that wrench fast forward... Epic rocks in the head sound!!!
Nissans & Chryslers always take FOREVER with my Autel. Really aggravating. Yours seems MUCH faster than mine, though.
I've been trying to get a drive cycle to run in my POS '07 Silverado for roughly 18 months now! I used to hate Nissan pretty bad ... but GM has knocked them out of 1st place! Congrats GM, you jackalopes! 😡 Anyway ... great vid here! I need to remember the voltages on those newfangled AFR sensors. Of course automakers made them work backwards - I expect nothing less!
My brother and I started working on his step son's '02 Ram 1500 this weekend. After we were done, I swept and SHOVELED 20 lbs. of rust chunks out of the shop, HAHAHA! She's a little crusty! We threw 8 wing-wang ignition coils & plugs in her, and repaired a split PCV hose waaaay down the back of the throttle body, right up against the firewall just about. That cured the 0300, plus misses on 2 & 4. Hacked off the rotted out hardware for the old Westin step rails, then removed what was left of the exhaust system by hand, lol - the back half of the Flowmaster copy just completely opened up, like they forgot to weld it, lol, due to all the rust. Would've made a nice training piece at a technical school - perfect cutaway. Grabbed some scrap pipe out back and figured out how we're going to cobble the system together with the gigantic Walker OE style muffler, with the wooden flatbed we'll be building for it. Next project is to cut the bed off - not a single bolt will come out there, guaranteed! This bed has been bondo'ed and riveted with sheetmetal 3x over it's life - now, there's nothing left to repair, HAHAHA! Had to put the truck in 4 low to get it on the lift, since it was dragging the left rear along for the ride. Looked to have fairly new calipers, but the rotors were trashed with rust, and the e-brake cables were rotted in half in 3 places, and looked to be hanging up on the left side. My brother's step son is gonna be working some overtime this month ... 😉
On Sunday, we made our weekly pilgrimage into suburbia to our old home where our dad still lives. We grabbed a bunch of lobsters and had a great feast. Before that, I had to fix BOTH of their less-than-1-year-old HONDA lawnmowers - welcome to the 21st Century! When we lost Honda to the cheapout scheme, it's all downhill fellas!! The drive system was screwed up due to corrosion. Managed to inadvertently find out there's an oil filled gearbox on the thing too - like a mini differential. They put something that nice on this thing, then throw crap metal all around it so it rusts! Man, I really need to build a time machine! I'd buy up 1,000 50's, 60's, 70's, & 80's cars, sell most, and keep a few 50's ones around for daily drivers, and RETIRE!! ... and fly my brand new Lear jet to all the warm places with the money I made. 😁
Tomorrow's project is swapping over the internals from the OE lower unit on dad's Suzuki 20HP outboard, to a eBay unit - my brother tore the skeg right off the bottom after running it wide open through a pile of rocks, HAHAHA! Was in the middle of a lake up in ME - you'd never expect rocks to be there, unmarked ... but there they were, along with 2 tons of aluminum shrapnel from it's last 1,500 victims. Should be an easy job. Just forward and reverse. Plus, I had the lower unit off in literally 10 minutes - super easy, unlike some Mercury outboards I've worked on before. Hopefully I can install just the new bearings and gaskets, and make this thing run this week. Want to test it out on a local river, hehehe - 20HP on a little 14' aluminum boat - it's like driving a Ferrari down that winding river. 😁
OH, almost forgot! Just received the two Astro 40sl MAX lights I ordered - these things are friggin AWESOME!! Face-melting bright! Finally some modern technology in my shop to keep my Autel company, hahaha!
I was doing a BMW E92 for a friend the other day where i came across exactly the same situation, didn’t make sense but since I’ve seen it previously on other cars i decided to go with what the live data is telling me.
My friend and another ex-bmw tech pulled their hair thinking im crazy to go against what the DTC is saying..
I really enjoy your videos. It would be cool to see a video covering the state inspection process.
After watching a few of your vids it is apparent that your a damn good mech cause I am one too.Every move you make are the same ones I have done.
Good job Eric O. That's a nice pet peeve to have Eric O. You want to no before you give it back to the customer thanks Eric O.
Great video and I've learned plenty by mistake...sticks in the memory banks better. Like to see the idiot in the commercial for that cheap scan tool so the mechanics don't rip you off tackle this and watch how he realizes he is completely clueless. Nice teaching video!
Mr. O! nice diag! Just a quick tip for unscewing the o2.... been doing that for 15 years and never failed.... bring the o2 bong cherry red, and cool it down with a garden hose.... You can almost unscrew it with your bare hands! Comming from the guy that told you about the tire valve stems to keep brake fluid from dripping all over! ;)
Great video Eric O @South Main Auto
I see it's been mentioned, but I've seen it as well. I believe part of the algorithm is for the pcm to compare readings from both and interpret "who's lying", so to speak. While I understand you can't program the pcm to anticipate every situation, a dead sensor should be easy for the pcm to identify. Thanks for the entertainment.
I'd assume it doesn't have dead sensor detection, has anyone ever seen any of them spit a code for the rear O2? other than other models where it did and was the upstream then :))
There are codes for the rear O2 sensor (P013*'s and P015*'s) which you would think should trip instead of the 2A00 for the AFR. I would accept a false code if both were working but one was slow and the PCM misinterpreted which one was faulty. Still sounds like bad programming on Nissans part. Not to mention, a whole lot of trouble for the for the armchair mechanics and parts cannon enthusiasts.
thinking about it further, I wonder if it was intermittent or worked when really hot (heater to sensor contact issue) or the sensor circuit just just bad.
that could make the ECM think the upstream is having issue and go for catalyst protection mode, so many cats have been killed by failed sensors and misfire codes not being set, it's uncanny ;)
Excellent video. For a home user just working on their own car, would just driving the vehicle for a few days accomplish the same thing as that elaborate system Nissan wanted, clearing the fuel trim tables, holding the RPM at a certain speed for 20 minutes etc?
Danner was saying that nissan has the front and rear o2s mixed up on nissan so alot of the scan data is backwards on some of the nissan models
Hey Vince, I too thought maybe it was a scanner/data issue at first. Maybe the Autel misinterpreting something...but the code is the code really and it's all about that AFR. This got me thinking a bit...what if the PCM trusts the rear 02 more than the AFR and compares the 2 for rationality....who wins? In this case it looks to be the rear 02. Non coding rear 02 wins the trust test and flags the AFR...now, to figure out why the rear 02 didn't code first....hmmmmmmm.....~Mike Becker~
could be wrong with any tool, always unplug one at a time and make sure you're seeing the right one change :)
ngksparkplugsusa new gig mike????
Hey Richard, i;ve been hiding. haha! Actually we are all one big happy family now :) ~Mike
I am glad I have found this video my 07 Murano gave me a P2A00 code so I went and replaced to AFR sensor which it needed it was bad but after replacing it keeps giving me the same code this is a second AFR since I thought it was bad. Performance of my Murano seems better after new AFR sensor but code keeps coming up. But base on this video seems like we may have same issue so will check on this.
Does this happen to 350z often as well? Where the o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 saids it dosent work but it’s actually bank 1 sensor 2?
Why rear O2 gives front AFR code? My guess is in Japan they read right to left. It's all bassakwards
Unknown from the video of run time. 0.28 volts on rear 02 indicates it hasn’t heated up yet. Nissans do the like to heat up a rear O2 when cold. I’ve had them take 30 minutes to heat up in the shop.
Your video fixed my issue p2a00 problem i replaced top upstream sensor 1 but it still popped the code, replaced the downstream o2 sensor 2 and it fixed check engine light.... obd2 scanner said sensor 1 but it was sensor 2..... thanks alot for the info
Never Seize in the U.K. is usually copper coloured I find, so gets called Copper Slip.
Just need to add some things. I just got done diagnosing this code. Monitor the AFR, rear 02 and rear 02 heater pids at minimum. 2.2 volts should be lambda for AFR. 0.28 volts on rear O2 is a bias voltage. Like my previous comment Nissan does not like to heat up a cold O2 via its heater. Must drive the vehicle until the heater PID indicates on.
Strategy that causes this code is simple. The PCM wants the catalyst at a certain temp for performance and life of catalyst. Using the rear O2 sensor will tell the PCM how well the catalyst is working. PCMs goal(generic) is 0.65-0.85 volts on rear 02.
The result of this when there is a issue is that the front AFR will indicate rich while the O2 indicates lean. On the vehicle ai diagnosed the exhaust had leaks near O2. Blocking off the tailpipe to force exhaust out of those leaks temporarily corrected the issue. Pin hole leaks that cannot be felt or heard is the number one cause of this code. Using a small amount of shop air, no more than 5 psi to pressurize the exhaust system and then spray the exhaust with soapy water. Do this when the exhaust is cold. This will show all the pin hole leaks.
Hey Eric, were you using the Maxisys ms908 or ms908P? One other question did you find when you updated the unit that you lost some vehicle manufacturers features were reduced, I heard there were some complaints about that especially concerning the Ford features
Always test the tester. The rear O2 is the tester. It failed and the two dont agree. Computer assumes the front has pooped the bed.
Actually the programmer pooped the bed. 1+1=3 in their world. I am at best a shade tree mechanic. However I have 40 years of IT experience. A high percentage of programmers aren't potty trained.
It sets the afr code For the rear o2 sensor failing because the pcm maps the code on that circuit that afr circuit is also running the rear o2 sensor @South Main Auto Repair
I can explain. The Nissan engineer responsible for setting that code in the ECU software just flat screwed up. This what you call a bug in the software world but Nissan perhaps isn't worried enough about it to issue a TSB or fix it with an ECU update. You don't usually see these kinds of problems with Honda, Toyota, or Subaru.
Hey Eric, awesome video! Crazy, I just took a peek at service info for that code...nothing stated about the rear 02 for a P2A00. I'm going to look into this more once i'm back in the office tomorrow. Seems like an odd issue. Wonder what the Nissan scanner would show? Could it be an translation issue with the Autel? Maybe the front AFR is compared against the rear 02 for rationality? As long as the rear 02 hasn't coded the PCM trusts it to test rationality against the front AFR? Speculation at best at this point... Either way, nice fixing an "AFR issue" with a standard old 02 sensor!
~Mike Becker
P.S. Nice choice on the replacement sensor :) Thanks for NOT adding more "never seize" to that new sensor!
Eric. Seems you're liking that PP the more you use it. Great video. Thanks!
Great troubleshooting and memory!
Thanks for the lessons on code setting criteria and your thoughts on why things are the way they are in the world of Nissan. :)
Ummmmm call Kieth haha. I am not sure why they work like this it is just one of those things I have been burned on and never forgot. Perhaps Becker over at Wells may know? They make the sensors after all :)
haha its all PFM...some pure freaking magic up in here! Gut feeling says the PCM trusts the good ole' rear 02 more than it trusts the AFR....so if the AFR is being compared for rationality against the rear 02 and the rear 02 hasn't coded...then the AFR looks bad...it's all about who the computer trusts more. ~Mike Becker
Was wondering why that truck didnt have any rust then you said it had just been Krown’d. Looks like regular application of that works! Most of your repair jobs involve fighting rust in order to do them. Great video!
Even if it did rust out you can buy a 2019 Frontier and it looks the same as a 2009 .
Thanks so much Eric, I am the president of your fan club.
I recently went through a similar problem with an 07 Camry. Got a code for a rich condition in rear o2 sensor. It turned out to be the front AFR that was bad.
Okay, the code gets set for the front I think because it's the one that is still responsive and goes "out" compared to the dead one. I think this is especially true because the dead one was showing 0.28 and not a completely dead 0.
Hey Eric, love every video always entertaining and informative 😉 ps is there always someone nearby mowing their lawn?
98% of the time yes haha, I swear my neighbor mows his lawn, puts the mower away, then gets it back out to mow again...
@@SouthMainAuto hahahahahahahaha sounds like he needs an intervention lol step away from the mower!
Thanks for the attitude , always make sure appreciate the reminder .
Hi, I'd just like to throw something out there, for comment. I own a 2006 Cadillac DTS, w/130K miles. Started getting P0420 codes, a few K miles ago, would set code at between 15-30 miles intervals! Action I took to correct this PROBLEM. #1.Started using " NO ETHENAL " Premium gas .#2.Started using Archoil AR6200, gas treatment . After a few, tanks of gas /Treatment, I stopped setting the P0420 code. Last code set , 300 miles ago ! Cost of gas is high, but worries down! P.S. I also use Archoil AR9100, in engine oil. FYI, I figured this is in the ( general) O2 senser/ catalytic converter area ! I know a lot of worry stopped when it stopped setting the P0420 cade .
I have a 2005 Nissan 350z. I ran into a similiar issue were I had trouble getting the O2 Sensor and Catalyst Monitors to a ready status. I tried going with the drive cycles a few times and that didn't work. I used the Torque Pro App with a Bluetooth OBDII Wireless Scanner to figure out the culprit of this issue. The car also threw a pending code twice when I performed those driving cycles. It turned out that the Driver Side Rear O2 Sensor was going bad. The way I found out was I looked at the voltage readings for the front and rear O2 Sensors and I noticed that the voltage reading for the driver side rear o2 sensor was stuck at a particular voltage reading regardless of engine load just like in the video with the Nissan Frontier. I ordered a new O2 Sensor and I was able to get all of the monitors to show a ready status.
I'm guessing that throttle body trigger is for when you crash the car and it keeps revving.
“This is where it can swing down and tattoo your arm” lol
Great Video keep em coming thanks again will remeber about the o2 sensor , have you run across in other vehicles the same diag or just Nissan
Nissan has some other strange things as well. For example, even though service information says that the TCM gets engine RPM from the crank sensor, it does not. It comes from the cam sensor. So mid 2000s 3.5 v6 Nissans with a P0340 cam code can act like a bad trans or TCM. Also if a customer keeps driving with a bad wheel speed sensor one of the solenoids in the HCU can remain energized which burns out the transistor in the module.
I finally recorded some “footage” today Eric...you make it look easy 😳
Well I did not get a notification yet.... still waiting 👍
South Main Auto Repair I have to work out how to edit it now 😂 on an old crapbookpro 🤔 Autologic, Defender and programming all in one video 👌🏻
TDM 4x4 Oh man it even sounds like a good one! Now I gotta see it!!
South Main Auto Repair all I’m saying is Jebus that Old Tony dude has some skills 😳
South Main Auto Repair Uploading..........🤞🏻😬
I work for Nissan as a tech, and i have asked the same questions to some engineers and they didn’t have a straight answer for me.
hey eric kudos to you sir for that nice article on Motor Age
Monday awesomeness , thank you Eric. needed that .
I just got a PB 3 from Cornwell on Monday and I already used it on a faulty 12v plug in a freightliner
I don't know if this channel is monitored anymore but I'm assuming by rear O2, you mean after the catalytic converter? I noticed on the scan tool that it said bank 1 sensor 2.
I'm wondering if this is the same issue with my '07 Altima 3.5L? I have a cheap scanner so hopefully it can check output voltage. But I did see in the live data that my Bank 1 Short Term Fuel Trim is above 15% and Long Term doesn't move. At least not at idle. It's tough to see when driving.
Nice job Eric
I'll remember that.
Spok would have refered to his memory bank also...so thats oki...logical.. not always the answer...
I got the same code in my 09 370z and it has kept coming back even after changing the bank 1 upstream AFR sensor so I guess now I know I should check my rear O2 sensor. It came on after getting an aftermarket clutch installed so maybe the shop didn't connect the sensor all the way correctly when putting everything back together or maybe the sensor is dead. Just got myself an OBD2 sensor with live data capability so I will also check to see if it behaves like the one in this video.
What happened?
@@tcblackg35 unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to figure it out 😅 I thought I had figured it out but the light would come back intermittently and when I went to get a smog check it didn't pass. I didn't get a chance to recheck because I got into a wreck and the car was totaled.
The readings pointed to bad rear 02 sensor or bad cat, but I didn't get the chance to figure that out before the wreck. Sorry
Once it gets that code, it’s impossible to track/fix p2a00
I have the same issue on my 2006 Altima popped on about 300miles after I replaced both up and down stream sensors. I keep the old sensors so I popped the upstream back on their cleared code and it came back.... Now I do have a small exhaust leak right near Downstream 02 sensor (Flexpipe) So I'm going to replace exhaust from Manifold back and see were I stand (since its old and somewhat rust anyway.... was UNAWARE the rear could make this code pop-up
exhaust leaks are always bad, anything leak upstream or within roughly three feet downstream of any rear O2 sensor can cause reading change.
exhaust flows in pulses, between the pulses is a vacuum/negative pressure, that pulls oxygen rich outside air in and throws the sensor reading off, which throws off multiple things :)
FYI, I also ordered a data logger after watching this video has I am an engineer and really didn't know a OBD captures and can display as much data about engine specs... Again, thanks
Does Eric take apprentices? If so he would be a really good mechanic to learn from in my opinion.
Awesome! By the way, this seems common on the V6s, as well.
This video was very enlightening to me. I learned what a horrible singer you are Eric! haha Cool trick to know to force the 2.5 Nissan monitors to run, damn near professional if you ask me.
Thank God you just earned a new subscriber all monitors ran I can pass emission
Great video as always wish we had a Mechanic in rowan county ky as good as u
I know on Hondoo's and Acura's the initial fuel trims are based off of the rear o2. Perhaps the old Nissan is the same? Perhaps it didn't realize the o2 was dead and thought the AFR was NFG!?
Great video! Thanks for the information and sharing.
Have seen Toyota Pathfinder sensor 1 and sensor 2 also switch on code sensor location..
That rigs in good shape underneath for the age.
Really enjoy watching and learning. Do you prefer NTK or Denso O2 sensors for a Nissan. Mine is a 2016 Altima 3.5, if that matters.