Last time I opted to weld in my lower skin before the inner door bottom so I could get behind it more easily with hammer and dolly/clean welds up etc. This time I went with a full door skin. Great work love the videos!
Thanks! If I had to do it again, I'd probably get an entire skin and go from top to bottom, maybe keeping the section that goes around the window channel. That horizontal seam weld is just asking for warps.
I tried welding on a 7 inch new lower on a 55 door.Lots of warping no matter how slow I welded. I ended up buying a skin that goes up to the window posts. Total of 5 inches of welding. New skin is rust free, ding free.and went on easier.
Thanks for another great and instructional vid! I have similar issues with my '55 post passenger door. There are clamps that align both sections of sheet metal, while setting a perfect gap between the two panels, have you ever tried these?I am surprised you didn't use the full panel on the door bottom as it had a nice recessed overlap, that mike have assisted in alignment? Thank you again.
I have a set that I bought from Eastwood long ago and I've since seen the exact same ones at Harbor Freight for pennies. I used them before using Fitzy's "cut and butt" method, which doesn't allow you to clamp like that.
Do you cool your welds to prevent it from worpping with air? Fitzee is good and makes it look easy. I pick up a lot from him. I have to rebuild my 55 Nomad door bottoms over in the spring after I rebuild my lower firewall, A pillers, put the roof on and add all new rear quarts. Yep its a compleat build. Good luck with your project it's coming along nicely. I wish I could be in my shorts like you were. It's 30° in my garage now and was snowing outside today here.. I'm also new to your channel so you have a new viewer.
Unfortunately, my air compressor situation is in need of serious attention. I'm limping along with a donut style that doesn't flow enough air to do much good. Thanks for the comment and hope you can make progress with your Nomad, maybe in snow and shorts!
I think from Real Deal Steel: realdealsteel.com/search.html?q=door+bottom It's supposed to be an exact replacement for the hard-top model but it can be modified to fit a sedan or wagon, as long as the door is the same length. I think I remember the difference being where the cut-outs are, and I stayed below that.
@@RestoringChristine1956 do you remember the cost , used dr 100.00-300.00 here and I still would need lower door skin , so trying to weigh the cost retired , wife gives me allowance every month I spend on 56 2 d4 wagon . Spindles forward ( to include disc break conversion) done have steering parts . But from there back still gotta do. Rockers , full floor ,pan. Have all that . Then mtr, trans etc. lol dam door is a issue , tail gate too lol
Loctite makes an aerosol spray "rust converter" that any auto parts store will carry. Lowes or Home Depot will sell Klean Strip metal prep, which is phosphoric acid, that'll do the same thing but requires a few more steps.
Last time I opted to weld in my lower skin before the inner door bottom so I could get behind it more easily with hammer and dolly/clean welds up etc. This time I went with a full door skin. Great work love the videos!
Thanks! If I had to do it again, I'd probably get an entire skin and go from top to bottom, maybe keeping the section that goes around the window channel. That horizontal seam weld is just asking for warps.
Turned out nice,glad you was able to handle the warpage
That's the biggest enemy. I've learned how to manage blow-through. But heat and panel warpage is a hard cat to herd!
I tried welding on a 7 inch new lower on a 55 door.Lots of warping no matter how slow I welded. I ended up buying a skin that goes up to the window posts. Total of 5 inches of welding. New skin is rust free, ding free.and went on easier.
Flat work is REALLY HARD. I can't say that I've figured it out yet. I envy those guys that can do it and end up with something that doesn't need fill.
looks lik3e good work to me !
Thanks! It came out really nice after I put it back on the car and have shaped everything with body filler.
They say if you cut your patch panels at a angle, it helps them to not dip in when welding them together
Thanks for another great and instructional vid!
I have similar issues with my '55 post passenger door.
There are clamps that align both sections of sheet metal, while setting a perfect gap between the two panels, have you ever tried these?I am surprised you didn't use the full panel on the door bottom as it had a nice recessed overlap, that mike have assisted in alignment?
Thank you again.
I have a set that I bought from Eastwood long ago and I've since seen the exact same ones at Harbor Freight for pennies. I used them before using Fitzy's "cut and butt" method, which doesn't allow you to clamp like that.
Do you cool your welds to prevent it from worpping with air?
Fitzee is good and makes it look easy. I pick up a lot from him.
I have to rebuild my 55 Nomad door bottoms over in the spring after I rebuild my lower firewall, A pillers, put the roof on and add all new rear quarts. Yep its a compleat build.
Good luck with your project it's coming along nicely.
I wish I could be in my shorts like you were. It's 30° in my garage now and was snowing outside today here.. I'm also new to your channel so you have a new viewer.
Unfortunately, my air compressor situation is in need of serious attention. I'm limping along with a donut style that doesn't flow enough air to do much good. Thanks for the comment and hope you can make progress with your Nomad, maybe in snow and shorts!
Those lower patches aren't the greatest quality but at least you were able to make them work out in the end.
These were definitely worth buying, but they did require some persuasion.
How long does it take to finish the bottom inner of the door
What you saw in this video was 2 days of work, maybe 12 hours total, so maybe most of 1 day.
Where did you get that bottom panel from I need one for my 56 2 dr wagon , same door
I think from Real Deal Steel: realdealsteel.com/search.html?q=door+bottom
It's supposed to be an exact replacement for the hard-top model but it can be modified to fit a sedan or wagon, as long as the door is the same length. I think I remember the difference being where the cut-outs are, and I stayed below that.
H I Bud , I need drivers side , lower dr frame panel where did ya get it .
I'm pretty sure this all came from Real Deal Steel.
@@RestoringChristine1956 do you remember the cost , used dr 100.00-300.00 here and I still would need lower door skin , so trying to weigh the cost retired , wife gives me allowance every month I spend on 56 2 d4 wagon . Spindles forward ( to include disc break conversion) done have steering parts . But from there back still gotta do. Rockers , full floor ,pan. Have all that . Then mtr, trans etc. lol dam door is a issue , tail gate too lol
What's the best way to clean surface rust in inner doors
Loctite makes an aerosol spray "rust converter" that any auto parts store will carry. Lowes or Home Depot will sell Klean Strip metal prep, which is phosphoric acid, that'll do the same thing but requires a few more steps.
Always remember Rome wasn't built in a day even if you have to build two a day to show a profit.
Thanks! And today marks exactly TWO YEARS!
Would been less work to just skin the whole door than a huge seam across
Having done it twice, I agree, but I'd splice it at the bottom of the window posts.