Hey Thad. First of all, great to see below that it's actually Thad--not a name I've ever heard before. Love your videos. I came across your vids after I started working at a hardware store and had to learn about metal roofing for work. Our supplier has minimal vids and nothing helpful at all. So I have been thrilled that RUclips "suggested" you to me. These tutorials and discussions have been invaluable. So much so I wish we could support your company. You are a great asset to them, articulating key information in an interesting way. Keep on doing what you're doing! And I will continue to be grateful that you do. Many thanks!
Wow, thanks so much for the complement! It means a lot that you have been learning through the videos we post; it's stories like these that make it worth it! If you ever have anything specific you want us to cover, don't hesitate to reach out 🙂 Have a great day! -Thad
Hey Thad, I had a roofer tell me that 180 degree seams over-tighten the panels and contribute to wavyness and bumpiness and all-around undesirable cosmetic effects on the roof, including making the seams themselves look wavy and crooked. He said 90 degree seams don't cause this and it's his strong preference to install metal roofs with 90 seams. What do you think? Is he just trying to get out of the extra labor, or does he just not know how to do 180 degree correctly? Or is it true that a 180 degree seamed roof is an uglier roof? Love your channel! :-)
Hello and thanks for your continued support, we really appreciate it! To get to your question, I’m going to start by saying a dual stage seamer that is in proper tolerance should minimize or eliminate the potential for this issue. While there is still a possibility for this problem, a single phase seamer out of tolerance could definitely cause the issue if it’s not set up properly or used properly. Also if someone has a single phase seamer there is additional labor because they would essentially have to seam the roof twice (once at 90 and again at 180). We recommend using a motorized seamer on installs, and again it is important that the seamer is adjusted correctly for the panel and clip being used. The seamer should be tested on panels that are not installed on the roof before proceeding to the actual installation. Now that we have that laid out, here’s our recommendation for 90 degree vs. 180 degree seaming in most cases: Our preference is always to choose an engineered system, and our engineering is based on 180 degree seams because a 180 degree seam will accommodate for low slope water submersion testing, while a snap lock or even a 90 degree seam will not. Note that depending on the gauge of the clips and panel the clips could telegraph through the panel seam and be visible. However, I’m assuming your project is at most a 1.5” and those clips use a lot lighter gauge material than some other profiles and should not be a big problem. I hope this answers your question as completely as possible. Thanks for the comment and have a great day! -Thad
i have never installed nail strip systems in roof and i want to know how solve the problem when you join two piece longitudinally, please tell me something? thanks
Hello! It's going to be a very open answer because there are so many variables. In FL you have different requirements based off of which part of the state you live in. For example, you have Miami Dade County which requires NOA application and roof systems to be tested to certain guidelines, while in North Florida you might only need a FL product approval which again has its own set of requirements. It is important to make sure the panel you pick meets the requirements for the area you are in and the wind speeds you could encounter. The only real way to do this is by talking to the manufacturer to see what ratings they have and on which panels. Two panels can be identical but it comes down to whether or not it is tested and approved for use in that specific region of FL. Thanks for the comment! - Thad
Hey Thad. I have been trying to find a simple un impeded photo or drawing of the seams for standing seam metal roofs. Your video has come the closest to doing so. But your video portion showing the profile of the seams is all of 1.32 seconds long and covered by over writing. WTF? Is this a world secret? Sorry but I have to file your video in the junk pile along with the others.
You could give this page a try: sheffieldmetals.com/products/panel-profiles/ Or check out my individual panel profiles videos, you might find something there: ruclips.net/video/ITQGEp4Y6Zw/видео.html -Thad
Hey Thad. First of all, great to see below that it's actually Thad--not a name I've ever heard before. Love your videos.
I came across your vids after I started working at a hardware store and had to learn about metal roofing for work. Our supplier has minimal vids and nothing helpful at all. So I have been thrilled that RUclips "suggested" you to me. These tutorials and discussions have been invaluable. So much so I wish we could support your company. You are a great asset to them, articulating key information in an interesting way.
Keep on doing what you're doing! And I will continue to be grateful that you do.
Many thanks!
Wow, thanks so much for the complement! It means a lot that you have been learning through the videos we post; it's stories like these that make it worth it! If you ever have anything specific you want us to cover, don't hesitate to reach out 🙂 Have a great day! -Thad
@@TheMetalRoofingChannel Awesome, and thank you right back. :-)
Great video Thad. Very informative as always.
Thanks for the support, Joe! -Thad
Can you review the Reinke Aluminum shake?
About nail strip or like you name nail flange, why do you say that it could lead problems ?? Thanks .
Greats videos, not only that.
Hey Thad, I had a roofer tell me that 180 degree seams over-tighten the panels and contribute to wavyness and bumpiness and all-around undesirable cosmetic effects on the roof, including making the seams themselves look wavy and crooked. He said 90 degree seams don't cause this and it's his strong preference to install metal roofs with 90 seams. What do you think? Is he just trying to get out of the extra labor, or does he just not know how to do 180 degree correctly? Or is it true that a 180 degree seamed roof is an uglier roof? Love your channel! :-)
Hello and thanks for your continued support, we really appreciate it! To get to your question, I’m going to start by saying a dual stage seamer that is in proper tolerance should minimize or eliminate the potential for this issue. While there is still a possibility for this problem, a single phase seamer out of tolerance could definitely cause the issue if it’s not set up properly or used properly. Also if someone has a single phase seamer there is additional labor because they would essentially have to seam the roof twice (once at 90 and again at 180). We recommend using a motorized seamer on installs, and again it is important that the seamer is adjusted correctly for the panel and clip being used. The seamer should be tested on panels that are not installed on the roof before proceeding to the actual installation. Now that we have that laid out, here’s our recommendation for 90 degree vs. 180 degree seaming in most cases: Our preference is always to choose an engineered system, and our engineering is based on 180 degree seams because a 180 degree seam will accommodate for low slope water submersion testing, while a snap lock or even a 90 degree seam will not. Note that depending on the gauge of the clips and panel the clips could telegraph through the panel seam and be visible. However, I’m assuming your project is at most a 1.5” and those clips use a lot lighter gauge material than some other profiles and should not be a big problem. I hope this answers your question as completely as possible. Thanks for the comment and have a great day! -Thad
180 seam is a better water tightness but also let's the panel be convex curved.
one question please, is possible longitudinal curve bend the profile of nail strip ?? Thanks
i have never installed nail strip systems in roof and i want to know how solve the problem when you join two piece
longitudinally, please tell me something? thanks
Any standing seam recommended option for Florida coast hurricane rating? Which performs better? Assume 6/12 or 10/12 pitch roof
Hello! It's going to be a very open answer because there are so many variables. In FL you have different requirements based off of which part of the state you live in. For example, you have Miami Dade County which requires NOA application and roof systems to be tested to certain guidelines, while in North Florida you might only need a FL product approval which again has its own set of requirements. It is important to make sure the panel you pick meets the requirements for the area you are in and the wind speeds you could encounter. The only real way to do this is by talking to the manufacturer to see what ratings they have and on which panels. Two panels can be identical but it comes down to whether or not it is tested and approved for use in that specific region of FL. Thanks for the comment! - Thad
there is a standing seam called zip-up. what is the difference between it and mechanical seaming
Hey Thad. I have been trying to find a simple un impeded photo or drawing of the seams for standing seam metal roofs. Your video has come the closest to doing so. But your video portion showing the profile of the seams is all of 1.32 seconds long and covered by over writing. WTF? Is this a world secret? Sorry but I have to file your video in the junk pile along with the others.
You could give this page a try: sheffieldmetals.com/products/panel-profiles/ Or check out my individual panel profiles videos, you might find something there: ruclips.net/video/ITQGEp4Y6Zw/видео.html -Thad