I prefer the nail strip option for ease of / faster installation. My local mfg produces a 2” tall, structural standing seam snap-lock panel. I do my own “engineering” by simply adding more fasteners than what is called for in our hurricane zone. After Hurricane Ida I had ZERO failures of any of the standing seam roofs I have installed over the years prior.
COOL , I'm in North Central Florida WITHOUT the standing seam, the typical metal roof, BUT if I ever need to replace I will go with the standing seam, BTW, how often would you suggest I check the tightness of the screws on my roof? We have been here 7 years and have noticed some that have already backed out, and I'm replacing those with the larger diameter "REPAIR screws" should I replace ALL of them but just the loose ones that won't tighten?
@@REVNUMANEWBERNdon’t listen to this guy and go with someone who doesn’t reference “ease of installment” when you’re paying top dollar for premium system. A nail flange strip creates multiple caved in spots because it’s too much pressure in one spot. And he just added more by securing it down. And guess where water sits. All those extra connections.
Ide love for you guys to do a specific video on hurricane prone area recommendations like Miami dade. What’s the recommend gauge/clip spacing/battens vs no battens/best underpayment/drip edges etc!
Saw standing seam system where every piece was freestanding and cap was rolled over standing seam. Beauty of this: Any piece could be removed for leak or repair and replaced without taking half of roof off.
And I think the most important thing is the clip system sits above the decking sold the panel sits above the deck and then there is an air movement as far as nail strip sits right on the decking and there is no air movement so condensation my collect underneath and rust the metal out
If you have proper ventilation and underlayment, condensation should not be a major issue. Ventilation regulates temperature and the underlayment protects the building from water infiltration. If any minimal condensation were to form on the underside of the panels, it typically will evaporate harmlessly by the time the sun heats up the roof. -Thad
We always recommend using an engineered (tested) system designed for harsh weather areas, and for Sheffield Metals and many other manufacturers, there is no engineering available for a nail strip panel. -Thad
Or just use a roofing nailer to install panels with nail flanges. When you put Z-bar closures on every panel with two screws minimum, how is that panel supposed to move?? Stating that those panels need to move around is the silliest thing I’ve ever heard when you’re screwing Z bar tight tho the deck THROUGH every single panel…
Using Z closure pins the panel to the roof at the top end of the panel. If screws aren't overtightened on the nail flange, the panel can shrink and grow with changes in temperature. The bottom end of the panel will move while the top end is constrained. This is exactly the same as if a clip system were used. If installed on a hot day, make sure to leave some room at the bottom end of the panel for contraction.
I prefer the nail strip option for ease of / faster installation. My local mfg produces a 2” tall, structural standing seam snap-lock panel. I do my own “engineering” by simply adding more fasteners than what is called for in our hurricane zone. After Hurricane Ida I had ZERO failures of any of the standing seam roofs I have installed over the years prior.
COOL , I'm in North Central Florida WITHOUT the standing seam, the typical metal roof, BUT if I ever need to replace I will go with the standing seam, BTW, how often would you suggest I check the tightness of the screws on my roof? We have been here 7 years and have noticed some that have already backed out, and I'm replacing those with the larger diameter "REPAIR screws" should I replace ALL of them but just the loose ones that won't tighten?
@@REVNUMANEWBERNdon’t listen to this guy and go with someone who doesn’t reference “ease of installment” when you’re paying top dollar for premium system. A nail flange strip creates multiple caved in spots because it’s too much pressure in one spot. And he just added more by securing it down. And guess where water sits. All those extra connections.
Anticipating installation of a standing seam metal roof within the next few weeks. Your videos have taught me what questions to ask. Thanks.
Awesome, Kevin! Glad to help! -Thad
Ide love for you guys to do a specific video on hurricane prone area recommendations like Miami dade. What’s the recommend gauge/clip spacing/battens vs no battens/best underpayment/drip edges etc!
Thanks for the suggestion, Chris! Great idea! -Thad
Our company have a specific panel for that!
Saw standing seam system where every piece was freestanding and cap was rolled over standing seam. Beauty of this: Any piece could be removed for leak or repair and replaced without taking half of roof off.
Not sure how that would perform in a hurricane, but sounds like an interesting product.
I second that request for a segment on Miami-Dade. ‘tis the season.
Noted! Thanks, Mark! -Thad
Great info thank you. Can you use any of these panels on a batten-type roof structure either steel or timber? I'm looking at building a Barndominium.
And I think the most important thing is the clip system sits above the decking sold the panel sits above the deck and then there is an air movement as far as nail strip sits right on the decking and there is no air movement so condensation my collect underneath and rust the metal out
If you have proper ventilation and underlayment, condensation should not be a major issue. Ventilation regulates temperature and the underlayment protects the building from water infiltration. If any minimal condensation were to form on the underside of the panels, it typically will evaporate harmlessly by the time the sun heats up the roof. -Thad
Use a larger flat head screw … some metal whip around the screw head
To buy my first metal roof machine a nail strips is a good investment???
Where can i buy a clip that is 1” wide and 1.75” high?
I should stay away from nail strip option especially in harsh weather area?
We always recommend using an engineered (tested) system designed for harsh weather areas, and for Sheffield Metals and many other manufacturers, there is no engineering available for a nail strip panel. -Thad
Do I have to use two by fours to put panels or just in top of my shingles
1x4 fir
So when is a nail strip good to use? Or are you completely against it?
Or just use a roofing nailer to install panels with nail flanges. When you put Z-bar closures on every panel with two screws minimum, how is that panel supposed to move??
Stating that those panels need to move around is the silliest thing I’ve ever heard when you’re screwing Z bar tight tho the deck THROUGH every single panel…
You caught that, too. Recommending the most expensive product is a typical sales strategy.
Using Z closure pins the panel to the roof at the top end of the panel. If screws aren't overtightened on the nail flange, the panel can shrink and grow with changes in temperature. The bottom end of the panel will move while the top end is constrained. This is exactly the same as if a clip system were used. If installed on a hot day, make sure to leave some room at the bottom end of the panel for contraction.
Do I have to use two by fours on my roof shingle roof
Usually it would be 1x3
Sales personnel talking about product but what about cyclone areas?
We talk about high wind areas at 11:04. -Thad
FEMA has found snap lock panels are the worst performing metal roofs in wind storms like hurricane prone areas.
Seriously ? I live in florida and I'm installing snaplock standing seamless nail
strip