Great video. You helped me replace all three mounts in my 2015 Cherokee Limited. 76,500 miles and all mounts were shot. The rear mount had collapsed and likely made the front mounts fail prematurely. For the transmission side, I ended up notching out the plastic battery tray to make removal easier.
I just replaced the transmission mount today because it was leaking oil. What a pain! I couldn't find the bolts on the bottom of the battery box. Thank you for the video it really helped.
This being the only video online for the model year, I just did the passenger side mount: 10mm - air box and coolant 11mm -mount itself Hoping to tackle the rear mount once I figure out the socket size (bigger than all of mine so larger than 24mm) I’ll post when I get to it. Good luck, everyone!
Hey hope all is well, I’m replacing my left right and transmission (Rear) mount the dealership quoted me at 2300 but I’m just going to buy the parts myself and take it to a local mechanic I have the mounts but I’m having trouble finding out which screws or bolts I need, if you can let me know which ones you bought that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
This was a great help!! Thank you sooo much, I actually felt like The hardest one was the bottom one lol, it was a pain to put the new one back in, i had to hit it with a hammer while wrapping a cloth around it a few times to make it fit..
Love the video and doing for daughter. I have the same upcoming project and am convinced now, the Jeep Cherokee is least desirable piece of junk to own. They over thought everything. Brakes even a pain. FYi, Just trim the battery tray which im gonna do just to reach the bolts. Thanks for tutorial.
I just did all three mounts on my wife's Jeep. The engine would take off before the rest of the car. If it wasn't for this video I would have spent all day working on them instead of hours. As I pulled each mount out the previous owner had a mechanic that wedged a strip of tire in one of the mounts., painted the transmission to make it look new. Damn. I don't know what else to say except someone got ripped off. Either way thanks for the video.
The one under all that electrical sucked but the other two were easy. But if I were to do this same job again I'd likely do it all within 1 hour. This was a blind repair. No shop manual. Didn't know what tools I'd have to get out, etc.
I’m doing the same thing. I’ve done the transmission ( hardest) already. Go buy the ratchet wrench and save some time and frustration. That one bolt took so much time. On to the next motor mounts. And you do not need special sockets to take these bolts off. You don’t have to go buy star sockets. Hope this helps someone.
I almost went to the parts store to buy a ratchet wrench. That bolt sucked something awful. A ratchet wrench would have done wonders there. I have some but not that size.
Thank you for this video, you did a good job with those motor kounts6,I am about to replace them on my 2018 jeep latitude. Did you Jack the transmission..?thanks
Thanks for posting the video man. I'm pretty sure my bottom mount is F'd, looks like this is something I can fix on my own. Could you elaborate on the third mount you fixed? So I would need to "position" the engine to swap the mount and this can be done with a ratcheting strap?
Yeah she was quoted $1400+ When she took it to the dealer I thought it was because she had bought an extended warranty. When she told me the QUOTE I was like WTF? Of course. She had a connection at the dealership. Parts for $385. At the part counter they told her $600+ So not bad. Just had to spend about 3 hours doing it.
Great video, doing this same job on my wife's jeep. I see you were just using the Impact wrench, is it necessary to Torque down with torque wrench after? Do you know the torque specs?
Set the ebrake, and hold the brake as well, then give it some gas in gear. Then let off and do the same in reverse. Drive to reverse a few times. If you can watch the engine you will see it move a lot. They should only move a little as the rubber flexes. When the rubber breaks apart the engine can flop around a few inches each way.
Hey my 2016 is in the shop as we speak. Wanted 1300 for the mounts. I said nope. I've done mounts ony other vehicles but also just had to have the trans relearned so after having battery and box out did you have to have it relearned or programmed? Thanks
A lot of my tools date back over decades. So just a rag tag assortment of everything I've mustered to not loose 👍 I'm an HVAC tech and not a pro mechanic but I do have a lot of mechanical tools that have just accumulated for 35 years. Just a guy thing I guess.
Oh man, I wouldn't remember since it was a one and done. Likely the usual 13mm 17mm etc and some other sizes and some extensions. Check out the 1/2 and 3/8 socket extension kits at harbor freight that have the rounded ends to allow the socket to pitch a little like a built in wobble joint
Does anyone know the torque specs for these motor mounts? I'm good with using my impact to hasten the install but definitely not to use for final torque value.
Hello I’m switching out those same mounts on a 2017 and the driver side and the new mount seems to have more movement than the old one, im not sure what to do at this point? Put the old one back on or just go ahead and change it?
There should be some flex. It allows the engine vibrations to not translate to the vehicle frame so much. The issue with mounts is they dry, rot, break etc. It would be unlikely for the new ones to be worse.
Did the same job on the same exact car. Having issues with the engine throwing codes like Trans too hot, abs, parking brake. Figuring on it being the fuse area maybe the bolts that run through to the boxes underneath? Thoughts?
I changed mine out and now mine is throwing codes at me. Fuel sensor, saying there's no gas, my gas tank Is full. But I can't even get it to turn over n
@@gregbrown8883 Check all the grounds. Then make sure where the 3 bolts go through the tipm module that there's no bent or broken or even pushed out pins down in there where the white blocks plug up. Do the same if you unplugged the ECM beside the battery.
i got it fixed. i accidentaly torn a cable trying to remove the driver side mount. the 3 boxes white plugs that go under the fuse box they were caught when i yanked on the mount. well 2 of the cables inside tore off but got it fixed. yeah i lost my patience and just yanked it off. my mistake @@hackfreehvac
LED's and other displays are not all continuously lit but are pulsed as a matrix (which is also how a few outputs on a processor can control several lights). Your eyes don't notice that one LED is being turned on and then another and then the next all so fast that your eyes/mind don't notice it. However, a camera sensor is also scanning rather than continuous (30fps/60fps/120fps) and the overlapping frequencies of the LED and the camera sensor scanning can make LED/LCD panels seem to flash or blink oddly. It is worse when it is bright and the shutter speeds are lower (how long the shutter/capture is per sample). Many videos do this when I film a LED number display etc. Sometimes I notice it in the phone and move it closer so the data can even be seen on camera.
I just replaced the bottom back one and man was that a PITA. Seemed to solve the lurching and some of the vibration I had. I still have some vibration in the gas pedal and steering wheel at idle in drive, do you think replacing the other 2 top left and right ones would help with that, they didn’t seem to have much play in them, or totally unrelated. What were your symptoms like?
Before we replaced the motor mounts the phone in the phone holder would shake. It was back to normal once I replaced all of the motor mounts. Now we are replacing a series of rotted coolant hoses.
That job would never be a 5 minute job even without all the electrical wires being gone. The battery case takes longer than 5 minutes to remove. It actually calls for 2 hours to remove and replace the first mount in this video.
5 minutes may be a understatement but if I were to do it again and knew which tools to grab the first time I'd have that intake box, hose and battery compartment out in 15 minutes top and the mount in another 15 minutes if I had the jack out as well. Much of the time is getting the tools out tho.
Did you catch the part where I mentioned it copying the insanity of Toyota and Honda? (The part about placing components that you can't reach with man sized hands etc). LOL Installing the electrical on the motor mount sure sucked. The last two vehicles I changed motor mounts on was a PT Cruiser (Chrysler/Dodge) and the Dodge minivan we had and each were pretty easy.
Ha ha Yeah. That's like saying a Mercury Marquee isn't a Ford when every single bit of it is a Ford except the emblem. It's a Dodge product from the engine to the Trans to every piece of electronics throughout. And the damn shifty rubber motor mounts and suspension components. All Dodge. Jeep hasn't existed as a separate company since before AMC bought it and then sold it to Dodge (Chrysler). And sadly, Dodge/Chrysler has been foreign owned for years. Now Fiat.
I avoid words like GD and LC. Other words that people consider to be a "cuss" (slang for curse) are not actually. i.e. sh-- just means dung. A slang. Most words we hurl are just meaningless slang. It is the curse words etc we should avoid.
If you think the average teenager has never heard swear words..... You should really get away from the internet because you're about to have your entire world shattered.
Get yourself a Honda, Toyota, Nissan , and problem solved , most American made vehicles are a pain to work on especially if you don’t have a lift . 🤷🏻♂️
HA HA HA! Have you seen my past videos where people had brought me a Honda or Toyota to do HVAC work or a timing chain/belt etc? They are FUCKED. On a CRV I had to pull the engine motor mount and jack the engine to get the compressor bolts to come out. Or how about how Honda installs the Thermal Expansion Valve on the evaporator in the dash rather than out under the hood? WTF does that??? A 15 minute job on a Dodge = cutting the dash apart and pulling the entire air box on a HONduh. On a Toyota I had to drop the oil pan, counter balance shaft assembly etc to change the broken lower timing gear which is part of the oil pump... so fucked beyond image. Sheeeeeeeeit. They all suck these days one way or another, but those things were just pure jackassery. If I had to do this motor mount job a second time I could do it all within an hour since I knew what had to come out. Honestly, that electrical box on the mounter mount may have been unexpected but it was made to come apart very easily. 5 minutes if I knew in advance what was involved.
Хобби
Thank you so much for this. Dealership was asking $2136 for this job.
Great video. You helped me replace all three mounts in my 2015 Cherokee Limited. 76,500 miles and all mounts were shot. The rear mount had collapsed and likely made the front mounts fail prematurely. For the transmission side, I ended up notching out the plastic battery tray to make removal easier.
I just replaced the transmission mount today because it was leaking oil. What a pain! I couldn't find the bolts on the bottom of the battery box. Thank you for the video it really helped.
All dads should be like this guy 🥹
This being the only video online for the model year, I just did the passenger side mount:
10mm - air box and coolant
11mm -mount itself
Hoping to tackle the rear mount once I figure out the socket size (bigger than all of mine so larger than 24mm)
I’ll post when I get to it. Good luck, everyone!
Rear mount turns out is 21mm.
Bring wrenches, wobble sockets and extensions.
Good luck.
Hey hope all is well, I’m replacing my left right and transmission (Rear) mount the dealership quoted me at 2300 but I’m just going to buy the parts myself and take it to a local mechanic I have the mounts but I’m having trouble finding out which screws or bolts I need, if you can let me know which ones you bought that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
He made that look effortless...now to do my three. Good job!
This was a great help!! Thank you sooo much, I actually felt like
The hardest one was the bottom one lol, it was a pain to put the new one back in, i had to hit it with a hammer while wrapping a cloth around it a few times to make it fit..
Love the video and doing for daughter. I have the same upcoming project and am convinced now, the Jeep Cherokee is least desirable piece of junk to own. They over thought everything. Brakes even a pain.
FYi, Just trim the battery tray which im gonna do just to reach the bolts.
Thanks for tutorial.
Good job man you always working on something.
I just did all three mounts on my wife's Jeep. The engine would take off before the rest of the car. If it wasn't for this video I would have spent all day working on them instead of hours. As I pulled each mount out the previous owner had a mechanic that wedged a strip of tire in one of the mounts., painted the transmission to make it look new. Damn. I don't know what else to say except someone got ripped off. Either way thanks for the video.
I cut around the top of the bolt and was avble to get it out saved you time and labor..
Those front engine motor mounts though! What a PITA man
The one under all that electrical sucked but the other two were easy.
But if I were to do this same job again I'd likely do it all within 1 hour. This was a blind repair. No shop manual. Didn't know what tools I'd have to get out, etc.
You are my hero. Thank You so much
Fun for the whole family!
thank you for this great video
I’m doing the same thing. I’ve done the transmission ( hardest) already. Go buy the ratchet wrench and save some time and frustration. That one bolt took so much time. On to the next motor mounts. And you do not need special sockets to take these bolts off. You don’t have to go buy star sockets. Hope this helps someone.
I almost went to the parts store to buy a ratchet wrench. That bolt sucked something awful. A ratchet wrench would have done wonders there.
I have some but not that size.
Dude is a badass
Thank you 🙏
Thank you for this video, you did a good job with those motor kounts6,I am about to replace them on my 2018 jeep latitude. Did you Jack the transmission..?thanks
thank for the vid.
On the 1st mount what size was the wrench that you wish you had a ratchet wrench? Said yIu even thought about going to get one.
Thanks for the video! What is the engine size?
Thanks for posting the video man. I'm pretty sure my bottom mount is F'd, looks like this is something I can fix on my own. Could you elaborate on the third mount you fixed? So I would need to "position" the engine to swap the mount and this can be done with a ratcheting strap?
Yeah 8 usually just rig the strapping to move the engine if necessary.
I just spent 1600$ on parts and shop labor doing a bunch of work on my 99 f150 5.4. Had them do the mounts. 5 hours labor lol
Yeah she was quoted $1400+
When she took it to the dealer I thought it was because she had bought an extended warranty.
When she told me the QUOTE I was like WTF? Of course.
She had a connection at the dealership. Parts for $385. At the part counter they told her $600+
So not bad. Just had to spend about 3 hours doing it.
@@hackfreehvac I had all three mounts done. Transmission service, spark plugs, battery terminals and my shifting/starting issue fixed.
Great video, doing this same job on my wife's jeep. I see you were just using the Impact wrench, is it necessary to Torque down with torque wrench after? Do you know the torque specs?
Depends on what it is.
I do go back and torque some stuff.
Other stuff I just go by feel for tight as shite 😆
How do I know when a mount is bad? My jeep shifts really rough sometimes. Even makes a CLUNK on some shifts.
Set the ebrake, and hold the brake as well, then give it some gas in gear. Then let off and do the same in reverse. Drive to reverse a few times.
If you can watch the engine you will see it move a lot. They should only move a little as the rubber flexes. When the rubber breaks apart the engine can flop around a few inches each way.
Hey my 2016 is in the shop as we speak. Wanted 1300 for the mounts. I said nope. I've done mounts ony other vehicles but also just had to have the trans relearned so after having battery and box out did you have to have it relearned or programmed? Thanks
I don't think she had any problem with the trans. Didn't know it had to relearn.
But last I know there are some driving tasks to do if it needs it
I have a 2014 cherokee trailhawk i think i need them replaced as well, could you help me find the part numbers for all three? thanks
We went to the car dealership. Actually my daughter did. I just helped replace them.
Are you able to post a link to all the toolkits you used here.
A lot of my tools date back over decades. So just a rag tag assortment of everything I've mustered to not loose 👍
I'm an HVAC tech and not a pro mechanic but I do have a lot of mechanical tools that have just accumulated for 35 years. Just a guy thing I guess.
can I ask the list of tools used in this video? I plan to DIY replace the mount. Thank you!
Oh man, I wouldn't remember since it was a one and done.
Likely the usual 13mm 17mm etc and some other sizes and some extensions.
Check out the 1/2 and 3/8 socket extension kits at harbor freight that have the rounded ends to allow the socket to pitch a little like a built in wobble joint
How did you know the motor mounts were bad ?
Does anyone know the torque specs for these motor mounts? I'm good with using my impact to hasten the install but definitely not to use for final torque value.
The final torque is German specs.
Hackfreehvac, Just wondering since this fix is the car still running with no vibration? Great video I'm about to do this to my wife's jeep.
I happen to ask recently and she said it is still good.
Another daughter has our Ford Escape and now it needs engine mounts real bad.
Hello I’m switching out those same mounts on a 2017 and the driver side and the new mount seems to have more movement than the old one, im not sure what to do at this point? Put the old one back on or just go ahead and change it?
There should be some flex. It allows the engine vibrations to not translate to the vehicle frame so much. The issue with mounts is they dry, rot, break etc. It would be unlikely for the new ones to be worse.
Did the same job on the same exact car. Having issues with the engine throwing codes like Trans too hot, abs, parking brake. Figuring on it being the fuse area maybe the bolts that run through to the boxes underneath? Thoughts?
Or a ground strap unplugged or broken loose from the frame tot he engine, to the battery etc
I changed mine out and now mine is throwing codes at me. Fuel sensor, saying there's no gas, my gas tank Is full. But I can't even get it to turn over n
@@gregbrown8883 I took it all back apart and made sure all my nuts were tight and made sure to press everything in good.
@@gregbrown8883 Check all the grounds. Then make sure where the 3 bolts go through the tipm module that there's no bent or broken or even pushed out pins down in there where the white blocks plug up. Do the same if you unplugged the ECM beside the battery.
thanks for the video i replaced the mounts on my trailhawk but i think i shorted out a fuse now i have no power to the interior and wont start xD
Yikes. Try a Cherokee forum to find out some clues for that
i got it fixed. i accidentaly torn a cable trying to remove the driver side mount. the 3 boxes white plugs that go under the fuse box they were caught when i yanked on the mount. well 2 of the cables inside tore off but got it fixed. yeah i lost my patience and just yanked it off. my mistake
@@hackfreehvac
Assuming the 3.2 v6 is different mounts and locations?
Mostly the same
what is with the flashing temp and gas part of the dash
LED's and other displays are not all continuously lit but are pulsed as a matrix (which is also how a few outputs on a processor can control several lights). Your eyes don't notice that one LED is being turned on and then another and then the next all so fast that your eyes/mind don't notice it.
However, a camera sensor is also scanning rather than continuous (30fps/60fps/120fps) and the overlapping frequencies of the LED and the camera sensor scanning can make LED/LCD panels seem to flash or blink oddly.
It is worse when it is bright and the shutter speeds are lower (how long the shutter/capture is per sample).
Many videos do this when I film a LED number display etc. Sometimes I notice it in the phone and move it closer so the data can even be seen on camera.
What model Dewalt impact wrench are you using?
I don't know the model off hand but it is the 1/2" Impact that you will find at Home Depot etc.
What bolts or extra screws did you have to buy?
Oh heck, I do not remember. Was a one off for my daughter. She's still driving it tho 👍
I just replaced the bottom back one and man was that a PITA. Seemed to solve the lurching and some of the vibration I had. I still have some vibration in the gas pedal and steering wheel at idle in drive, do you think replacing the other 2 top left and right ones would help with that, they didn’t seem to have much play in them, or totally unrelated. What were your symptoms like?
Before we replaced the motor mounts the phone in the phone holder would shake.
It was back to normal once I replaced all of the motor mounts.
Now we are replacing a series of rotted coolant hoses.
@@hackfreehvac I too have to replace an O ring in the coolant hose. My buddy told me that jeep is for “Just Expect Every Problem”
How long did it actually take to change all 3 mounts, start to finish
Probably half a day or so.
What type of socket size or tools I need I’m trying to change the transmission mount on a 2018
I don't remember. But it's good to have an entire set of metric.
I just did the bottom rear one and needed a 21mm socket and I think a 15mm as well and then an E20 torx bit for a few other things
This is a 2.4L correct?
I believe it is. (It's my daughter's)
That job would never be a 5 minute job even without all the electrical wires being gone. The battery case takes longer than 5 minutes to remove. It actually calls for 2 hours to remove and replace the first mount in this video.
5 minutes may be a understatement but if I were to do it again and knew which tools to grab the first time I'd have that intake box, hose and battery compartment out in 15 minutes top and the mount in another 15 minutes if I had the jack out as well.
Much of the time is getting the tools out tho.
This should be similar to 2016 Cherokee Sport right??
Maybe. It's my daughters car. So if it's the same FWD engine then most likely.
battery tray bolts location is hell
Is it the same on a 2018 jeep Cherokee?
I'm not sure. This is the only Cherokee I have done (Daughter's vehicle)
What a pile! Exact reason why the new vehicle i own is from 89
If you were to fix this for someone how much would you charge? I just got my done i paying 417 for it
$417 labor?
Did you supply the parts?
@@hackfreehvac no it both parts and labor
@@ronaldc8973 Dude that is dirt cheap.
Most people are quoted closer to $1,000 parts and labor, on any vehicle.
@@hackfreehvac that cost for one motor mount i have 3
Lmmmaooo that’s what she said haha
Love you didn't edit anything
U live in Az? I’ll pay lol
Maybe when I was younger. But just doing family member vehicles is more than enough for my now 50+ year old self 😲
Glad I don’t have dodge !!! TOYOTA
Did you catch the part where I mentioned it copying the insanity of Toyota and Honda? (The part about placing components that you can't reach with man sized hands etc).
LOL
Installing the electrical on the motor mount sure sucked.
The last two vehicles I changed motor mounts on was a PT Cruiser (Chrysler/Dodge) and the Dodge minivan we had and each were pretty easy.
I'm not looking forward to this smh
Those rear strut mounts a pieces of shit. I replaced ours about a year and a half ago and I’m doing it again today.
Damn. That is short life. Do you drive it like you stole it? 😆
@@hackfreehvac Wife’s car. So probably
It's not a Dodge , it's a Jeep.. he kept saying it over and over again..
Ha ha
Yeah. That's like saying a Mercury Marquee isn't a Ford when every single bit of it is a Ford except the emblem.
It's a Dodge product from the engine to the Trans to every piece of electronics throughout. And the damn shifty rubber motor mounts and suspension components. All Dodge.
Jeep hasn't existed as a separate company since before AMC bought it and then sold it to Dodge (Chrysler).
And sadly, Dodge/Chrysler has been foreign owned for years. Now Fiat.
So, you use that kind of language with your daughter? Classy. Informative video, otherwise.
I avoid words like GD and LC. Other words that people consider to be a "cuss" (slang for curse) are not actually. i.e. sh-- just means dung. A slang. Most words we hurl are just meaningless slang. It is the curse words etc we should avoid.
If you think the average teenager has never heard swear words..... You should really get away from the internet because you're about to have your entire world shattered.
Get yourself a Honda, Toyota, Nissan , and problem solved , most American made vehicles are a pain to work on especially if you don’t have a lift . 🤷🏻♂️
HA HA HA! Have you seen my past videos where people had brought me a Honda or Toyota to do HVAC work or a timing chain/belt etc?
They are FUCKED.
On a CRV I had to pull the engine motor mount and jack the engine to get the compressor bolts to come out.
Or how about how Honda installs the Thermal Expansion Valve on the evaporator in the dash rather than out under the hood? WTF does that???
A 15 minute job on a Dodge = cutting the dash apart and pulling the entire air box on a HONduh.
On a Toyota I had to drop the oil pan, counter balance shaft assembly etc to change the broken lower timing gear which is part of the oil pump... so fucked beyond image. Sheeeeeeeeit.
They all suck these days one way or another, but those things were just pure jackassery.
If I had to do this motor mount job a second time I could do it all within an hour since I knew what had to come out. Honestly, that electrical box on the mounter mount may have been unexpected but it was made to come apart very easily. 5 minutes if I knew in advance what was involved.