If your meter is acting up it's possible to remove the front clear plastic piece by 1: remove the back plate by removing 3 screws 2: remove the 4 long screws that have red loctite equivalent that is probably powdered by now. What can happen is a meter that has been dropped my have broken pieces of black body plastic that can interfere with the needle. Be careful to use the right size 🪛 to avoid stripping the screwhead. You may need to use a Dremel cutting wheel to cut a better slot to insert your flat head bit if there is a stubborn one.
one other test, to put it against a mirrorless or dslr in P mode, and check the callibration, the "slide rule" should say the same combo as the camera did.
I have similar model. For some reason the meter will not go over 40 foot-candles. Any readings below that will show, but if I wiggle the meter around the needle doesn't stay put during a reading. Does this sound like a fixable issue? Any help would be appreciated! Victim of eBay scam here.
Hi @antoniopezoulas6243, Reads to me that the exposure meter either needs to be calibrated or a CLA aka Cleaned Lubed and Adjustment. Usually on these models there's an adjustment dial on the back (silver) at times to re-calibrate an exposure meter with other meters that are correct. Other than that for some of these exposure meters that are vintage they collect over time rust, corrosion etc just like vintage cameras. Solution: upon that the exposure meter can't be re-calibrated It could be send to a technician for repair. However, keep in mind that the repair on a vintage light meter can cost just at much as a new one including (possible parts) and labor. Check with B&H Audio and Video. A new meter can be purchased from them. ~Paul~
I have this one, maybe its 29-c but it looks the same, but the issue is, it doesn't easily give a reading by pushing the button, sometimes you have to push a few times and the needle just moves, or else, normally, it reacts less, the reading is always lesser than the other one i have ( Deluxe II L-389 M) that seems to work perfectly So like you're saying, if its the unclean Lumisphere, or can there be an issue inside?
Hi @DethronerX, That's possible but most likely one of the cells are going bad. The classic exposure meters have two cells. One that reacts to light subjects and another for reacting to dark subjects. Also, keep in mind that these machines (exposure meters) were manufactured originally during the industrial age. We can't expect them to react to modern standards. Back when I was a young man we had Single8 then Super8 then VHS and didn't complain. Today, I'm amazed at how some filmmakers want the film to be so clear that the actors make-up gains can be seen in the movie. And in fact this can be seen. Some 35 years ago when I was talking a course on this subject we we informed that this would eventually be the case. My question is when does it stop? When is clear clear enough? What's the difference between the exposure on a photo from the 1940's and today. I find the exposure from the 40's is far more attractive. However, this is what makes us all different as filmmakers.
@@paulmorbid1476 I totally agree with you and i never liked it when in the early 2000s, things started to look more clear, the first time we all saw skin pores razor sharp, it was cringe and just didn't feel right, it felt too much focusing on the visual and audio quality, that it was being overdone to the point of breaking and this sharpness and perfection on just the technical side and not much on the actual story, characters and the aesthetics has always pissed me off. I basically wanted to know what I was doing wrong with the meter and if there was something wrong with it. I totally accept and understand otherwise, about vintage stuff, yet this stuff was so well built, a lot of it still works, because electronic and digital stuff is not as reliable as the mechanical stuff, especially if it's made to last and now its not made to last, now they want to make almost everything disposable and cheap. I know sometimes lighter stuff like allows are more in demand than heavy, metal stuff, but the result we get from the old stuff was done with more care. Anyway, im 45 years old : D
I totally agree with you in return. You're probably doing everything correct with the hand held exposure meter. It will allow you to set the exposure up or down a small amount of stops to be creative. The only way to test it is to perform a filming test. Write on the clapper the different exposures. After processing the film the film this will give you the answer. Thanks for viewing and for the kind words. ~Paul~
Reads good. I also use my hand held exposure meter with my Super8. It's just a way to double check the exposure. So, if someone would be off I'd need to calibrate it.
The person who contacted me via txt concerning missing the "Lumisphere" aka the white globe and the High Slides for your Sekonic Light Meter check eBay for those parts. Hope this helps you. ~Paul~
@@frankflordian2850 Hi, also check the used camera groups (in the Philippines) on Fb. I've noticed many Sekonic Light Meters like you and I have listed there. If it turns out you can't find what you need used you're welcome to contact me as I can order what you need new. Hope this helps you and thanks for watching. ~Paul~
@@frankflordian2850 make sure if you buy a used Lumisphere that it's white (not old dirty yellowish) or cracked. Otherwise, the readings can't be trusted. You're very welcome and thank you for the kind words. ~Paul~
If your meter is acting up it's possible to remove the front clear plastic piece by 1: remove the back plate by removing 3 screws 2: remove the 4 long screws that have red loctite equivalent that is probably powdered by now. What can happen is a meter that has been dropped my have broken pieces of black body plastic that can interfere with the needle.
Be careful to use the right size 🪛 to avoid stripping the screwhead. You may need to use a Dremel cutting wheel to cut a better slot to insert your flat head bit if there is a stubborn one.
one other test, to put it against a mirrorless or dslr in P mode, and check the callibration, the "slide rule" should say the same combo as the camera did.
I have similar model. For some reason the meter will not go over 40 foot-candles. Any readings below that will show, but if I wiggle the meter around the needle doesn't stay put during a reading. Does this sound like a fixable issue? Any help would be appreciated! Victim of eBay scam here.
Hi @antoniopezoulas6243,
Reads to me that the exposure meter either needs to be calibrated or a CLA aka Cleaned Lubed and Adjustment.
Usually on these models there's an adjustment dial on the back (silver) at times to re-calibrate an exposure meter with other meters that are correct.
Other than that for some of these exposure meters that are vintage they collect over time rust, corrosion etc just like vintage cameras.
Solution: upon that the exposure meter can't be re-calibrated It could be send to a technician for repair. However, keep in mind that the repair on a vintage light meter can cost just at much as a new one including (possible parts) and labor. Check with B&H Audio and Video. A new meter can be purchased from them.
~Paul~
I have this one, maybe its 29-c but it looks the same, but the issue is, it doesn't easily give a reading by pushing the button, sometimes you have to push a few times and the needle just moves, or else, normally, it reacts less, the reading is always lesser than the other one i have ( Deluxe II L-389 M) that seems to work perfectly
So like you're saying, if its the unclean Lumisphere, or can there be an issue inside?
Hi @DethronerX,
That's possible but most likely one of the cells are going bad. The classic exposure meters have two cells. One that reacts to light subjects and another for reacting to dark subjects. Also, keep in mind that these machines (exposure meters) were manufactured originally during the industrial age. We can't expect them to react to modern standards. Back when I was a young man we had Single8 then Super8 then VHS and didn't complain. Today, I'm amazed at how some filmmakers want the film to be so clear that the actors make-up gains can be seen in the movie. And in fact this can be seen. Some 35 years ago when I was talking a course on this subject we we informed that this would eventually be the case. My question is when does it stop? When is clear clear enough? What's the difference between the exposure on a photo from the 1940's and today. I find the exposure from the 40's is far more attractive. However, this is what makes us all different as filmmakers.
@@paulmorbid1476 I totally agree with you and i never liked it when in the early 2000s, things started to look more clear, the first time we all saw skin pores razor sharp, it was cringe and just didn't feel right, it felt too much focusing on the visual and audio quality, that it was being overdone to the point of breaking and this sharpness and perfection on just the technical side and not much on the actual story, characters and the aesthetics has always pissed me off.
I basically wanted to know what I was doing wrong with the meter and if there was something wrong with it. I totally accept and understand otherwise, about vintage stuff, yet this stuff was so well built, a lot of it still works, because electronic and digital stuff is not as reliable as the mechanical stuff, especially if it's made to last and now its not made to last, now they want to make almost everything disposable and cheap.
I know sometimes lighter stuff like allows are more in demand than heavy, metal stuff, but the result we get from the old stuff was done with more care.
Anyway, im 45 years old : D
I totally agree with you in return. You're probably doing everything correct with the hand held exposure meter. It will allow you to set the exposure up or down a small amount of stops to be creative. The only way to test it is to perform a filming test. Write on the clapper the different exposures. After processing the film the film this will give you the answer. Thanks for viewing and for the kind words.
~Paul~
@@paulmorbid1476Thanks, thats the best thing, ill do that, because so far ive only shot on super8 auto exposure and im ready to try manual
Reads good. I also use my hand held exposure meter with my Super8. It's just a way to double check the exposure. So, if someone would be off I'd need to calibrate it.
The person who contacted me via txt concerning missing the "Lumisphere" aka the white globe and the High Slides for your Sekonic Light Meter check eBay for those parts. Hope this helps you.
~Paul~
Hi!! That was me!! Thank you so much for responding. I was hoping to buy one here in the Philippines for faster shipping :)
@@frankflordian2850 Hi, also check the used camera groups (in the Philippines) on Fb. I've noticed many Sekonic Light Meters like you and I have listed there. If it turns out you can't find what you need used you're welcome to contact me as I can order what you need new. Hope this helps you and thanks for watching.
~Paul~
@@paulmorbid1476 You are amazing!! Will look for some in our local marketplaces!! Stay safe and have an amazing day!!
@@frankflordian2850 make sure if you buy a used Lumisphere that it's white (not old dirty yellowish) or cracked. Otherwise, the readings can't be trusted. You're very welcome and thank you for the kind words.
~Paul~