Видео

@@reggiechelsea , I took a closer look after recording that video and noticed some light corrosion starting. Batteries in any camera should be removed when not using it. Here's a video of mine on camera battery corrosion. ruclips.net/video/EUhuirBg3Uk/видео.htmlsi=YbArbxP_h4DwnGlU

@@sanmaran1 Hi, Try gently turning it to the right. Then turning, turning and turning the lense. Don't force it. Also, attempt in applying heat (via a hairdryer ) to the mount up to about the center of the lense for about 30 seconds. This is to loosen any old lubricants. Don't heat the glass elements as this can break them. ⚠️Don't heat the lense too long or the glass elements could crack.⚠️ Just enough heat to loosen any old lubricants. ⚠️Any mistakes made to you projector in any attempt to repair/service it are on you ⚠️ Upon this doesn't work you're welcome to send me close-up photos of the lense mount via bolexrepairphilippines@gmail.com, Instagram:Paul Morbid. *I do not use messenger* Thank for viewing and your question.

@@sanmaran1 The old lubricant needs to be cleaned off with 99.9% rubbing alcohol. Don't get any on the glass elements. The reapply sewing machine oil in it's place. Here's my video below. However the process isn't being shown. But removing the lense on my Elmo FP A is. ruclips.net/video/tKSQ124O55o/видео.htmlsi=rskhJZ5Gm5TIRBbT

@@erissylvain Hi, Upon that the WD-40 was sprayed on any plastic parts and gears it needs to be removed. Plus the operation of the camera will splash it around. In addition the WD-40 odor can give the same effect. If you're going to disassemble the camera make sure you have the knowledge of doing so. It's always best to send a camera to a service technician for repair/servicing. Keep in mind that cameras are filled with tiny parts, springs, micro screws. ⚠️Note: a point and shoot camera with a built in flash is dangerous to open. Because it's flash has to be defused. Otherwise, it can give the person touching the inside of it a big shock ⚠️ Every time a camera with a built in flash is turned on it's flash is recharged. It can be usually heard when turning the camera on. *Any mistakes you make to the camera and or your person in any attempt to repair/service a/ the camera are you* I'd highly suggest sending the camera to a technician for repair. Below is the type of lubricant used for plastic gears and parts. *Start viewing at 16:50. Thanks for viewing. ruclips.net/video/o4-b2-LMMaM/видео.htmlsi=5XJONkzNxOgVI4uP

@paulmorbid1476 Luckily, he told me that he didn't spray it directly to the camera, he left a drop fall into the hole where the backdoor latches. But I do can smell the wd-40. Sadly, I live in a fisherman's town, and I have really no technician to go to. Thanks a lot to take the time to answer.

@@erissylvain , Just hope for the best. The lubricant to use in cameras (for the metal on metal) is weapons oil. Check the light seals to make sure no WD-40 go on them. If so then they will need to be replaced. WD-40 is also hard on the glass elements (lenses, viewfinder glass etc.). You're very welcome.

@@erissylvain , By the way. Try opening the film compartment door then setting the camera on a table in front of a window where the sun can shine into the film compartment ( empty of course) with no film inside. This could help get rid of that WD-40 odor. Because it could affect the film when a roll is put into the camera. Especially if a roll stays in it for a long time.

@paulmorbid1476 Thanks a lot. If there is something I do have is sunshine :) Im going to leave it ventilating for a while before using it again. I was able to clean the little oil I saw from the sides with a cotton bud. Like yiu said, let's just hope the damage is not instant and exteme. Never again, lesson learned!

@@RobCCrosby Hi, I'll show that in time. It's kinda tricky. Best to send it to Du All Camera. www.duallcamera.com/

Hi @CarloTimothy, I'll be getting back to the Canon 310XL series in time. As I pointed out the lense element housing just crumbled (as usual) with these models. Got to put it back together then reconstruct it. These cameras take lots of time to repair and are very old now. In addition the cheaper the parts makes it to where the parts many times have to be reconstructed. Thanks for viewing and for the kind words.

@@IknowsPickin Hi, Bolex cameras are meant to be serviced by a knowledgeable technician. The spring must be fully wound down (before) dismantling the camera. And even then the spring within it's clutch motor barrel is prewound to a point. Dismantling the Bolex otherwise can damage gears, break it's spring including that to the person working on it. As I point out in my videos these repairs take time. This is also why customers call service technicians asking "what's taking so long with my camera". A Bolex (or most any vintage movie camera) is made of many types of metals. The technician is working with rusted and corroded screws, springs, tiny parts and gears etc. I even have a video showing the power of a Bolex H-16 spring that jumps out of the clutch motor barrel. And when that clutch barrel hits the floor and wall at high speed it bends it. Then it's useless. Patience and experience is the only key when servicing/repairing vintage movie cameras. Hope your ok, for viewing and for the kind words.

@@IknowsPickin , Here's my video on a much easier method of winding down a stuck Bolex spring motor on a H-16. ruclips.net/video/DjlZRf_q3OU/видео.htmlsi=-bE5BopjIN36gZzv

@@IknowsPickin , Here's my video showing a Bolex main spring within it's clutch motor barrel flying out. This is showing the "power" of that spring either during removing it or installation. Usually a service technician would use a device known as a "Spring Winder". This device is for re-installing the spring. The spring is placed into the winder along with the clutch motor barrel. Then the spring is wound down small. After that the Spring Winder inserts the spring into the barrel. This is a hand operated machine usually used by in clock repair. Here's my video showing the power of a Bolex H-16 spring flying out of the clutch motor barrel. ruclips.net/video/fEMQiWs8j5o/видео.htmlsi=uy8hVh4m6EZZACvX

@@ionkight8853 Hi, As soon as time allows. However, this isn't a repair anyone should perform other than a service technician. Upon that you have an issue with the motor in that model Du All Camera would be the place to send it. Here's the link at the bottom. Thanks for viewing and the kind words. ~Paul~ Du All Camera www.duallcamera.com/

@@Bodegajuju Hi, Here's my video on what lubricant to use. If you want to get right to it start viewing at 16:40. No need to lubricate the motor. Only it's gear. ruclips.net/video/o4-b2-LMMaM/видео.htmlsi=bfM6eGtnsbQauZel

@@kylerobertson , I just replied to you via your comment. My reply is within my previous reply. However, here's the two different batteries from B and H Audio and Video. Do read again my reply with what was pointed out. Thank you for the kind words and happy filming. B and H Audio and Video www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=exell+battery+a14px+3v+alkaline+battery&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ps

@@kylerobertson , Here's the second battery. B and H Audio and Video www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/96457-REG/Wein_W9901201_MRB625_Cell_1_35v_Zinc_Air.html

@@fotovandenatuur Hi, My experience is with vintage movie cameras including vintage point and shoot. However, looking at the camera it seems like some pieces could be cracked underneath. That is what could be causing the issue. Best to send the Nikon D200 to a professional camera shop for repair. You don't want to get into servicing a camera and get overwhelmed at what can be in there.

Hi @thavari, I do have videos on a Non-Rex Bolex. But not of a Non-Rex viewfinder as of yet. Reason being that about every six months or less rust starts to form inside them. I will point out that your Bolex should get a professional CLA aka Cleaned Lubed and Adjustment asap. This is because fragile parts such as it's governor could be rusted out. I have videos on that as well. It's highly recommend to 1St view those videos on the Non-Rex to get an idea of many situations. In my video the Non-Rex Bolex is filled with rust and unrepairable. However, a filmmaker gets to view the ins and outs. Keep in mind that a Non-Rex Bolex is more difficult to service than a Rex. It's highly recommend to send your Bolex to a service center such as Du All Camera. You would find that dismantling a Non-Rex Bolex is trying. To reassemble the camera can be worse. I would not suggest servicing that camera yourself. *Note: any mistakes you make to your camera and or to your person in any attempt to repair/service your camera are on you* Here's the link to Du All Camera www.duallcamera.com/

@@paulmorbid1476 I saw those videos :) thanks for replying so quickly!

You're very welcome @thavari.

Hi @ yakovendelman, As in my video what you see is what you get with servicing the Canon 514XL-S. Unfortunately it's just a terrible model as pointed out for the reasons in the video. Most likely this model was declined to be serviced when issues occured that were too deep to repair. Back over 30 years ago my shop would explain that this model would take so much time in labor that the cost wasn't worth it. Fisher VCR's were the same. Awful machines. The Canon 514XL is ok. However I'm not a fan of the Canon cheaply made lense housing system. Today it's worse because the cameras are 50, 60,70 years old. Nizo is good. But the dials are wearing out due to age. Bolex Super8 are some of the worst. Find yourself a Bauer, Gaff, Minolta and a Beaulieu just to name a handful. Send the camera to a technician for a CLA aka Cleaned Lubed and Adjustment before filming with it it. I prefer Single-8. A Super8 camera can be far more difficult and time consuming to service. This is due to the pleather coverings that have to be removed. And some things were meant to be put together and not taken apart very much. This...is how companies made money in selling customers another camera. The Canon 514 XL-S is widely known to many as a camera to avoid. ~Paul~

Hi @kylerobertson, I haven't touched a Bolex S1 in some time are they are almost unrepairable. So concerning the battery that I can recall some filmmakers use two 1.35 v zinc air battery. Brand (Wein). Upon you choose this method a thin cardboard or paper housing would probably have to be made to fit around both batteries that are stacked upon each other. These batteries are available on Amazon. Or, another replacement can be purchased via B&H Audio and Video. This battery is alkaline. Some prefer zinc air battery. Some filmmakers alkaline. Test everything with and external exposure meter and a film test is suggested. This is because depending where your filming or the season the battery can be affected. Plus it's a replacement battery. I've added the link for the batteries form B&H. At the bottom. *I would suppose the alkaline battery would be a better choice. That's up to you. Not to many use the Bolex S1 (and like models) as they had high failure rates. The motor is cheaply metal pressed, exposure meter issues and to dismantle the camera for servicing the aluminum plus pleather coverings have to be heated off with a hairdryer. Many coverings in these models are held on with glue. Just added that to help you* Thank you for the kind words and for viewing. B&H Audio and Video www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=exell+battery+a14px+3v+alkaline+battery&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ps 1.35v zinc air battery www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/96457-REG/Wein_W9901201_MRB625_Cell_1_35v_Zinc_Air.html

@@paulmorbid1476 thanks for the help! Got the S1 for $25, so even if it doesn’t last, I won’t be put out too much. Will check out the batteries… Alkaline…

@@kylerobertson Hi, Here's the two links for two different batteries from B and H Audio and Video. It's located within the other reply of mine.

Hi @diegocarrion8338, Some filmmakers use two 1.5 alkaline batteries for the exposure meter replacement. However they must be wrapped in a thin cardboard/paper. For the bottom and top of the battery to make contact a small spring that fits just in the center (bottom or top) depending on what's required is needed at times. Or just some aluminum foil. But make sure the spring or foil on stay in the center and don't touch the sides of the battery compartment if it's metal (that has no battery holder). It's best also to perform a film test. Understanding that the 3volt difference affects the exposure meter including the auto exposure. This way it can be checked to the camera that's used if that' + or -. B&H Audio and Video have had a replacement 3volt alkaline battery. Here's the link. Thank you for the kind words. B&H Audio and Video 3volt alkaline battery www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=exell%20battery%20a14px%203v%20alkaline%20battery&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ps

Hi @lgustavomata, Check with Du All Camera. These Super8 cameras (especially these Canon models) are very tedious to repair. And costly in doing so. It's wise to send the camera to a service technician for repair.

Hi @afriendwithatruck, Unfortunately I can only service cameras within the Philippines (upon that you're in the pearl of the orient). Reason is that the Philippines has an issue shipping some metal items out of the country. In addition some couriers tend to charge an under the table fee when shipping a popular quality item out to of the Philippines. Depending on what the issue is with the camera you could possibly repair it yourself. ⚠️Just 1St remember to fully wind down the Bolex motor. Otherwise during dismantling it's spring motor will instantly unwind and snap to a stop becoming broken. The Bolex Standard Double 8mm camera motors are metal pressed together (the clutch barrel) that is. If it would break the only solution is to find another camera of the same model and transfer that motor into the other Bolex. Bolex never only meant to have the motors of the Standard Double 8mm cameras replaced. Not repaired. What seems to be it's issue. You're welcome to send me some videos via Email: bolexrepairphilippines@gmail.com ~Paul~

You're also welcome to contact me via WhatsApp by appointment.

Hi @filmsandfeels-dg1pb, The Canon 514 XL is fine in my opinion. It's just that the construction of the lense housing that Canon made in their low end Super 8 cameras were junk. Far better investment to buy a Fujica Single-8 Z800 or ZC 1000.

Hi @carmellebandibas, That's a cheaper model of Fujica Single-8. It always develops that issue. Send me a video to bolexrepairphilippines@gmail.com. Open the cameras film compartment door and press it's shutter button. Also rotate the camera around so that I could possibly hear any broken gears inside. I'll check if there's parts on my shelves. ~Paul~

It would be much better to invest in a Fujica Z800.

​@@paulmorbid1476 hello!!! Thank you so much for replying! I am only considering to buy this camera. I saw a cheap price of it but the motor isn't working. I think I wont be buying the camera. I will be patient and find the camera you recommended and perhaps a super 8mm cam.

​@@paulmorbid1476is Zm800 better than z800?

ZM 800 was a sound model. Z800 is a much better. The two Fujica Single-8 cameras to get are the Z800 and ZC1000.

Yes.

@@paulmorbid1476 Oh man, is there a way to get in touch with you? I have an extremely valuable tape that I already cleaned up but is still having noise and other issues. I feel like a pro such as yourself may be the last resort in figuring out what's wrong.

Hi @undustfixation, You're welcome to contact me via bolexrepairphilippines@gmail.com. Send me photos and one or more videos. Plus explain to me the issue with the tape. Is it VHS or Betamax.

@@paulmorbid1476 VHS! Alright, will email you some pics of the tape's condition as well as video of what it looks like when played. Thanks a lot and glad I found this channel!

Reads good. Maybe sometime we can call each other via video call.

I'll check on that for you. Just been very busy with my experimental horror film lately.

@@paulmorbid1476 Great thank you. Do you have a blog/vlog about your film yet?

I post on this channel from time to time about my current experimental horror film. It's going to put some in an up roar. Yet others will agree. It's difficult to decide what film that I make will cause this. The current one or the others.

@@paulmorbid1476 Thanks Paul, I will check it out.

Hi @mmuzzwell3654, Not at all. For some 30 years I serviced many small electronics in the U.S.A. From VCR's, Sony Walkman's, Radios etc. As I've pointed out in some of my videos it was the companies who made the small electronics who partnered with the parts companies who made a grease that would deteriorate plastic gears within about six months. It was this that kept customers taking a VCR, Super8 camera etc to a service technician for repair. Meaning more money be made in replacement parts. Keep in mind for example that a VCR was marked in 1977 being a top loader. Those machines were a pain in the backside to repair. This was due to numerous idler tires (made of rubber) that would dry out and crack. Preventing the VCR from Play, FF, REW, Rec. But, the majority of the VCR's in the early days were metal. Example: a Bolex Standard Double 8mm, 16mm are made of different metals. Therefore as pointed out in a video of mine there is a type of lubricant to use that's safe for plastics. Thanks a bunch. ~Paul~

Here's my video on what lubricant to use that's safe for plastics in electrics. Start viewing at 1:25 that I recall. ruclips.net/video/o4-b2-LMMaM/видео.htmlsi=kzNJH2yF90iKAV84

I'll also point out to your comment that a tropical county is brutal on a camera such as a Bolex. This is due to the handful of metals they were made from. Tropical countries make a Bolex rust and corrode badly inside. Therefore, they require a CLA every six months.

Hi @valcovvalcovalco, Yes that's the 1:1 shaft. Take a look at the video again and you'll notice how the governor is behind the shaft. Thank you for the kind words. ~Paul~

Hi @antoniopezoulas6243, Reads to me that the exposure meter either needs to be calibrated or a CLA aka Cleaned Lubed and Adjustment. Usually on these models there's an adjustment dial on the back (silver) at times to re-calibrate an exposure meter with other meters that are correct. Other than that for some of these exposure meters that are vintage they collect over time rust, corrosion etc just like vintage cameras. Solution: upon that the exposure meter can't be re-calibrated It could be send to a technician for repair. However, keep in mind that the repair on a vintage light meter can cost just at much as a new one including (possible parts) and labor. Check with B&H Audio and Video. A new meter can be purchased from them. ~Paul~

Hi @generaljohnson, I could give you several videos on why this issue is possible. The best solution is to get the Bolex a new full CLA unless this has already been done. I've seen this problem before in Bolex 8mm pocket models and it turns up in different ways. The following videos are what you can or might be able to perform yourself before shipping the camera off to a technician. Make sure in the video to clean the pressure plate very well. *Any mistakes made on your camera and or person in any attempt to repair it are on you* ruclips.net/video/EXyGZkaQYH0/видео.htmlsi=07TQa8niKy1OgYlW

Upon that you want to go deeper into your Bolex camera here's a video. This will show where to lubricate. *The Bolex in this video is a different model but they all really are constructed and operate the same. ⚠️Make sure to fully wind down the Bolex spring motor before dismantling. Otherwise it'll unwind and snap to a stop becoming broken.⚠️ ruclips.net/video/lQq4rzTg8Mw/видео.htmlsi=CnVxBNmXxCu_kl_y

You could check the rubber roller and make sure it's clean and undamaged. Here's a video on that. But it seems to me this issue could be in the take-up spindle or claw. This is why it's just best to get a new full CLA if your Bolex has just been purchased. And or if it's never had a CLA in your ownership. ruclips.net/user/shortsfEA8OZljF74?si=iaXvh-2_Z4lfAyQZ

@@paulmorbid1476 Thanks!

@@paulmorbid1476 Good ideas - thanks again!

Hi @timoslock7993, Paul's next video is and will be late. We have an out break of Whooping cough and some flu in the are. Paul's in bed very sick. He'll be back with another video and answer questions as soon as he feels better.

@@paulmorbid1476 Hello, hopefully he will recover quickly. Get well soon Paul!

Hi @timslock7993, 1.Reads to me that the "EE Lock" is set or defective. To test the "EE Lock" aim the camera at a subject that's bright or dark then adjust the "EE Lock". It's kind of a pain to use really. 2. This is actually the 1St thing to do is make sure there's new batteries in the camera. Forgive me for taking so long in my reply. I'm still not 100% back in health and just getting around to answering questions. The government has started lock-downs in certain areas here and it's getting bad. Hope the information helps. ~Paul~

@@paulmorbid1476 That's no problem at all! It's good to read that you're feeling better. Activating the EE lock doesn't have much effect. I don't notice any difference. I still have to tip the device on its side to revive it. It's powered by new Duracell batteries. I also hear a rattling noise when I shake the device back and forth. This is never good news. Or maybe it is? I'm afraid I'm going to have to unscrew the device? The instructions in your video will be very helpful. Thanks for your feedback and get well soon man!

Hi @timoslock7993, True if there's a loose part inside that's bad news. Hope it can be repaired. ~Paul~

Hi @FlyingJay23, CLA aka Cleaned Lubed and Adjustment. Remember, after buying a Bolex (or any vintage movie camera) it's best to send it to a technician for a CLA. These cameras are filled with tiny screws, springs and parts that can become lost in the blink of an eye. Plus the timing that has to be set on them is another situation. ~Paul~

@@paulmorbid1476 thank you!! Your videos have been really helpful! I’m going to be getting a P2 this weekend!! 😁

Hi @FlyingJay23, The Bolex P-2 is a nice camera. Also easy to service yourself when have practiced step by step. Remember, when it comes to dismantling the Bolex Standard Double 8mm pocket models (1St) wind it's motor all the way down. Otherwise during taking it apart the motor will instantly unwind and snap to a stop becoming broken. Bolex metal pressed sealed those motors and meant for them to be replaced not repaired. If it breaks another motor from another camera will be needed. Make sure the seller sends you a video proving the Bolex being sold to you operates. Don't accept any comment from them such as (I don't know how it works). Just sent them one of my videos on how to test a model. They all wind the same way. The best to you on the purchase. ~Paul~

@@paulmorbid1476 thanks for the advice! Luckily I’ll be meeting in person so I’ll be able to check out to the camera thoroughly before buying it!

Hib@donaldblanchi9934, If that's the case then something's simply out of alignment. Thanks for viewing and for the kind words. ~Paul~

Any tips on properly fitting the pieces back together? It's really odd, it seems like nothing's in contact and then when I tighten the srews all the way, the shutter just won't move. @@paulmorbid1476

Then something's not seated properly. Check the dial on the outside of the case. It has a pin on the inside. Could be catching on that. I'll do what's possible to make a video about this. However, it's going to take time as I have many projects going on.

Thanks so much! I was able to fiddle around and found out that I had to have the shutter button pressed down so that I could place the shutter properly without the release selector being in the way@@paulmorbid1476

Hi @mbontotsetrong6411, I haven't serviced the Canon 312XL-S because it's too similar to the 514XL-S. It's seems to me that the 312XL-S would be disassembled basically like the 514XL-S. Consider this before taking the lense apart. "If" that fungus on it's lense is too bad then it's very possible that fungus has penetrated the glass elements. "If" that would be the case then nothing can be done except to replace those glass elements. The fungus will spread to other glass elements, inside the wiring etc. And keep in mind that some of those Canon lenses weren't the best quality as pointed out in my video. Be careful as the lense housing could just crumble in your hands.

Hi @devowevo123, To get empty double8mm spools all that can be done is to visit online markets.

@@paulmorbid1476 that’s what I thought might be the case. Do you know if 3d printing one would work?

From what I've read 3D printing will not work on creating film spools. The printing can't print the inside grooves (so I've read) and the plastic isn't able to tolerate spinning at high speeds.

It's alo going to be very difficult if not impossible to 3D print a daylight spool where no light can shine through it.

Gotcha. Thanks so much for the response! Gonna hunt one down online

Hi MrPaultheguitar, I look forward to do that. And you did the right thing. When the confidence isn't there it's best to stop.

Explain please.

@@paulmorbid1476 It says 'Bolex H-16 Reflex Repair' under the date when you are fixing a different camera.

All my repair videos read that way. I simply haven't included every camera model, VCR, DVD player, Computer repair Sony Walkman etc that I've been servicing for over 30 + years. Thanks for the heads up at any rate.

@@paulmorbid1476 OK, thanks for another helpful video!

Thanks for all the great information @nicholassheffo5723.

Hi @lelajenkins3213, You're very welcome.

Hi @MysteryManBob, Reads to me that your Fujica ZC 1000 Single-8 needs a CLA. Also make sure the Alkaline batteries are new. If you're using the grip that's attached to the bottom it might require a CLA as well.Thanks for viewing.

Lots of work to do there. It'll definitely keep you busy. Good find on the camera.