Just a tip for folks who shoot in the street You can use a incident meter in the street by holding the bulb towards your camera, parallel to your subject, and shade the bulb with your hand. This will give a similar reading to your shadows where your subject is. If you are slightly over exposed it’s not an issue with film and darkroom printing. If you’re in the open landscape you can point your meter at your camera and take a reading without shading the bulb. If it’s a big open field for example, the sun won’t be much different where you are vs where your subject is.
For those of us using old analog cameras and _not_ doing studio work, the L-398A will still be useful. If you RTFM, you discover that it comes with three accessories that are screwed in over the light sensor and allow it to meter in three separate modes: Lumisphere - for incident light measurement (p. 8 of the English Operating Instructions) Lumidisc - for illuminance light measurement (p. 11 of the English Operating Instructions) Lumigrid - for reflected light measurement (p. 12 of the English Operating Instructions) A printed copy of the Operating Instructions is included in the box or can be downloaded directly from the Sekonic web site as a PDF. The instructions are clearly written, concise, and include helpful illustrations. For those of us doing landscape or street type photography, the Lumigrid is what you want. So, for all the whiners who complain about using an incident light meter, this is a non-starter. The meter can be used in any of the three modes depending on how you're shooting. Just remember to keep the box and all the stuff in it and Read The Fine Manual. Good luck and thanks for a helpful video! J BTW... I enjoyed the history lesson.
Man, thank you for this information! I was going nuts trying to find the use for that! I was suspecting exactly the same, that it was just for memory purposes
Came for the light meter, stayed for the wondeful Japanese history! Thank you my friend, I was given this light meter and was unsure about how to use it, especially with the reflective diffuser. I was thinking these readings are very low, but now I know that its not as accurate as the globe diffuser. Thanks!
Nice tutorial for beginners. I especially love the bits of Japanese history and culture you add. However the major reason to use reflectance rather than incident readings is if the reflectance of the subject is higher or lower than a "middle grey" of 18% reflectance. If the reflected reading is really two stops below the incident reading, it either means there is a meter error, or the subject you're taking the reading from is of very low reflectance. Andy
Nice video and interesting notes on Japan. Some of the commenters suggest that a reflected reading can be more accurate than the incident reading for which this meter is primarily designed. I disagree. Each metering method has its own quirks. It’s important to understand the principles of how the meter works and make adjustments when needed. The most common mistake made with reflected metering is not understanding that the meter treats every value in the scene as if it were 18% gray, which leads to under exposure when there is a lot of white in the scene, and over exposure when there is a lot of black. An incident reading need not be concerned with the dominant color (value) in the scene.
This is the one thing I really wanted to see discussed more in this video: It should have been explained that the demonstration of a marked difference between the incident and reflected readings was not an example of one reading being more accurate, it was a demonstration of how the incident reading delivered a ready-to-use reading regardless of the black subject, while the incident reading required additional interpretation.
This particular Sekonic meter started life as the Norwood Director, made in Hollywood in the 1950s for the movie industry. Norwood failed, so Sekonic bought the legal rights, tools, etc, and continued making it even today. It may be the only selenium cell meter (no battery) still made. It is made mainly to measure light sources in a stuio, not subject brightness. which makes it a particularly poor choice here to demonstrate meter usage in general. You take this type of meter to your subject as lighted, point the meter directly at the camera and take a reading. The half-pong dome will partly shade the light from the source, which gives a very well balanced exposure reading. There are a half dozen guys making YT videos using Mamiya RB/RZ and Sekonic incident meters, who complain about needing to "guarantee" their exposures so always shoot their film at half box speed to over-expose. Their common issue is they don't know how to properly use their incident meters. For most people, a reflection meter is more accurate.
Thank you for the insight into that area. I went to kindergarten in Japan when we lived in an area known as Grant Heights. I have wondered about how that area must have changed over fifty years.
This is the best explanation on the use of this sort of Sekonic meter I've encountered - and with an economy of words too. Some explanations can be quite confusing, despite tiresomely long instruction. I know, because I have one, and I needed help using it. THANKS!
one tip, that not many videos describe, or show is that the RED Triangle in the needle area syncs the arrows of the High/low readings, aka if you don't set the red triangle to the meter needle, you will NOT get the right settings, think of this as a slide rule, everything moves, and the meter is INDEPENDENT of all of the scales, so this red arrow syncs the scales to the reading, Photo Teacher blog channel even misses this! the ASA and the outer dial (via the reading from the meter-aligned with the black or High arrow) is the MAIN slide rule, the red arrow in the meter syncs this ruler position with the meter; the actual light level sets the 'gears' , coarse then fine, the coarse is the arrows, the fine is the arrow to meter read on the dial, in effect the asa dial sets shutter speeds for the light seen, the arrows set the aperture, via the slide rule conversion of the light seen (from candles, which the meter knows, to f-stops your lens knows, aka a language translation).
I just got one of these to use with my new Mamiya Rapid omega 200. Your tutorial is perfect, thank you. Now I feel brave enough to put some film in and shoot. And went to your stores (Etsy, eBay, and store). will keep an eye out for anything cool you may have to offer. again thanks for the great video... Bo
The intro actually had some interesting information for me. I’m in the US Army myself and know a lot of folks stationed in Japan coincidentally, though I came here looking for knowledge on a light meter for grandfather’s film camera that he used to shoot with during his time in the Vietnam War. Helpful vid 👍🏽
Many handheld meters have an adjustment which allows you to fine tune them, so if the selenium cell is mildly deteriorated, you can compensate for the difference. Some cameras with selenium meters also have such an adjustment.
I have only used the 398m, but there seems to be little difference between it and the other variants, whichever one you can get the best deal on should serve you well.
The flat diffuser is designed for studio use with hot lamps. You would use it to measure the amount of light your lamps are shining on your model or subject.
I am a westerner married to a Japanese woman and have visited Japan often. I find your descriptions of the parks in Tokyo and now the very interesting history of Aoyama park quite fascinating. Of course, the knowledge you are passing on about analogue photography is the main reasons I am here. I have often thought that using incident light readings from a light meter would be a good idea but haven’t done it because I didn’t fully understand how to use one. This detailed explanation has been very helpful.
In other words the park is part of the unofficial United states empire as some have called it. And no I'm not one of the American haters but every American base embassy ect is called American ground even though it isn't.
Use it facing a 18% photo grey card sir that 2 stops will not happen old school practice. That's how I check all old gear after I make my purchase. Too much back stories not having anything to do with reading light or light meter. Do a separate video on Japan history
You wasted 8 minutes talking about the park. That is almost half the time. Why? People watching want to know about the meter so why waste the time in that park. Who cares about it when you are explaining how and why to use a light meter?
Just a tip for folks who shoot in the street
You can use a incident meter in the street by holding the bulb towards your camera, parallel to your subject, and shade the bulb with your hand.
This will give a similar reading to your shadows where your subject is. If you are slightly over exposed it’s not an issue with film and darkroom printing.
If you’re in the open landscape you can point your meter at your camera and take a reading without shading the bulb. If it’s a big open field for example, the sun won’t be much different where you are vs where your subject is.
For those of us using old analog cameras and _not_ doing studio work, the L-398A will still be useful. If you RTFM, you discover that it comes with three accessories that are screwed in over the light sensor and allow it to meter in three separate modes:
Lumisphere - for incident light measurement (p. 8 of the English Operating Instructions)
Lumidisc - for illuminance light measurement (p. 11 of the English Operating Instructions)
Lumigrid - for reflected light measurement (p. 12 of the English Operating Instructions)
A printed copy of the Operating Instructions is included in the box or can be downloaded directly from the Sekonic web site as a PDF. The instructions are clearly written, concise, and include helpful illustrations. For those of us doing landscape or street type photography, the Lumigrid is what you want.
So, for all the whiners who complain about using an incident light meter, this is a non-starter. The meter can be used in any of the three modes depending on how you're shooting. Just remember to keep the box and all the stuff in it and Read The Fine Manual.
Good luck and thanks for a helpful video!
J
BTW... I enjoyed the history lesson.
I think its worth noting that the red triangle pointer does not effect the light reading its only there for memory purposes,
Man, thank you for this information! I was going nuts trying to find the use for that! I was suspecting exactly the same, that it was just for memory purposes
Came for the light meter, stayed for the wondeful Japanese history! Thank you my friend, I was given this light meter and was unsure about how to use it, especially with the reflective diffuser. I was thinking these readings are very low, but now I know that its not as accurate as the globe diffuser. Thanks!
Nice tutorial for beginners. I especially love the bits of Japanese history and culture you add. However the major reason to use reflectance rather than incident readings is if the reflectance of the subject is higher or lower than a "middle grey" of 18% reflectance. If the reflected reading is really two stops below the incident reading, it either means there is a meter error, or the subject you're taking the reading from is of very low reflectance.
Andy
Nice video and interesting notes on Japan. Some of the commenters suggest that a reflected reading can be more accurate than the incident reading for which this meter is primarily designed. I disagree. Each metering method has its own quirks. It’s important to understand the principles of how the meter works and make adjustments when needed. The most common mistake made with reflected metering is not understanding that the meter treats every value in the scene as if it were 18% gray, which leads to under exposure when there is a lot of white in the scene, and over exposure when there is a lot of black. An incident reading need not be concerned with the dominant color (value) in the scene.
This is the one thing I really wanted to see discussed more in this video: It should have been explained that the demonstration of a marked difference between the incident and reflected readings was not an example of one reading being more accurate, it was a demonstration of how the incident reading delivered a ready-to-use reading regardless of the black subject, while the incident reading required additional interpretation.
This particular Sekonic meter started life as the Norwood Director, made in Hollywood in the 1950s for the movie industry. Norwood failed, so Sekonic bought the legal rights, tools, etc, and continued making it even today. It may be the only selenium cell meter (no battery) still made. It is made mainly to measure light sources in a stuio, not subject brightness. which makes it a particularly poor choice here to demonstrate meter usage in general. You take this type of meter to your subject as lighted, point the meter directly at the camera and take a reading. The half-pong dome will partly shade the light from the source, which gives a very well balanced exposure reading. There are a half dozen guys making YT videos using Mamiya RB/RZ and Sekonic incident meters, who complain about needing to "guarantee" their exposures so always shoot their film at half box speed to over-expose. Their common issue is they don't know how to properly use their incident meters. For most people, a reflection meter is more accurate.
Thank you for the insight into that area. I went to kindergarten in Japan when we lived in an area known as Grant Heights. I have wondered about how that area must have changed over fifty years.
This is the best explanation on the use of this sort of Sekonic meter I've encountered - and with an economy of words too. Some explanations can be quite confusing, despite tiresomely long instruction. I know, because I have one, and I needed help using it. THANKS!
one tip, that not many videos describe, or show is that the RED Triangle in the needle area syncs the arrows of the High/low readings, aka if you don't set the red triangle to the meter needle, you will NOT get the right settings, think of this as a slide rule, everything moves, and the meter is INDEPENDENT of all of the scales, so this red arrow syncs the scales to the reading, Photo Teacher blog channel even misses this! the ASA and the outer dial (via the reading from the meter-aligned with the black or High arrow) is the MAIN slide rule, the red arrow in the meter syncs this ruler position with the meter; the actual light level sets the 'gears' , coarse then fine, the coarse is the arrows, the fine is the arrow to meter read on the dial, in effect the asa dial sets shutter speeds for the light seen, the arrows set the aperture, via the slide rule conversion of the light seen (from candles, which the meter knows, to f-stops your lens knows, aka a language translation).
I just got one of these to use with my new Mamiya Rapid omega 200.
Your tutorial is perfect, thank you. Now I feel brave enough to put some film in and shoot.
And went to your stores (Etsy, eBay, and store).
will keep an eye out for anything cool you may have to offer.
again thanks for the great video... Bo
The intro actually had some interesting information for me. I’m in the US Army myself and know a lot of folks stationed in Japan coincidentally, though I came here looking for knowledge on a light meter for grandfather’s film camera that he used to shoot with during his time in the Vietnam War. Helpful vid 👍🏽
I love the extra info. Really interesting
Interesting...I have a Norwood light meter that looks very similar to the one you're showing. Nice video, Thank you
I've been watching your videos here and there, keep up the good work and stay safe!!
I used to have a Gossen Luna Lite. Loved it.
Thanks, I even learned a bit about Tokyo.
Great presentation; as the previous presentations...very enjoyable and educational...how do we reach your Japan Camera Store?
What do you think of vintage selenium handheld light meters? I have a old sekonic one that I use and it has worked well thus far.
Many handheld meters have an adjustment which allows you to fine tune them, so if the selenium cell is mildly deteriorated, you can compensate for the difference. Some cameras with selenium meters also have such an adjustment.
Which one of the Sekonic 398’s do you recommend? This one is the 398m?
I have only used the 398m, but there seems to be little difference between it and the other variants, whichever one you can get the best deal on should serve you well.
I have an older Sekonic meter L-28c that has both of your diffusers plus another flat one that is white. What should it be used for?
The flat diffuser is designed for studio use with hot lamps. You would use it to measure the amount of light your lamps are shining on your model or subject.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 Thanks
I am a westerner married to a Japanese woman and have visited Japan often. I find your descriptions of the parks in Tokyo and now the very interesting history of Aoyama park quite fascinating. Of course, the knowledge you are passing on about analogue photography is the main reasons I am here. I have often thought that using incident light readings from a light meter would be a good idea but haven’t done it because I didn’t fully understand how to use one. This detailed explanation has been very helpful.
Skip to 11:50 to actually learn about how to use this device...your welcome
It s good vidéo man thank you, it’s very useful. That said, I don’t want be unpleasant but if you come to the matter directly, i would enjoy better
Is nice to know about history; but to spend 8 min before you start talking about the meter specs, perhaps is too much…. The rest great! :)
Thank you ;))
A note about phones: most modern phones have an ambient light sensor that measure incident light to one side or the other of the camera.
One reason to use an analog light meter is that the digital meters are crazy expensive!
In other words the park is part of the unofficial United states empire as some have called it. And no I'm not one of the American haters but every American base embassy ect is called American ground even though it isn't.
11:15 before he gets to the point.
Most boring video ever , bla bla bla 95% you are talking about not related to the subject !
what rubbish.. talking nonsense for 30 minutes
Use it facing a 18% photo grey card sir that 2 stops will not happen old school practice. That's how I check all old gear after I make my purchase. Too much back stories not having anything to do with reading light or light meter. Do a separate video on Japan history
First 2 minutes and absolutely NOTHING SAID about light meters?????
Bye!!!
bla bla bla bla .................
Who cares about your location. Just get on with using the light meter.
Wtf
Too much talk not related to the meter.
You wasted 8 minutes talking about the park. That is almost half the time. Why? People watching want to know about the meter so why waste the time in that park. Who cares about it when you are explaining how and why to use a light meter?
daddy chill
Missing the empire
His channel, his rules
@@BearlyXanaxWhat even IS that?
Enough on the park and history of Japan none cares get to the subject.
Actually I receive a lot of requests for such anecdotes, and some people have asked for more videos about Japan and less about cameras.