Thank you for the detailed layout of your compressor line system. I'm having water issues as well and I need to address it quick before I ruin more tools and I like the pre-tank cooler you have so I'm going to steal your idea for my setup. I really appreciate you for taking the time to explain the system!
I've used those large fittings on 1" impacts. They are high high flow, but a pain in the ass to couple/decouple when you're in freezing weather. Shark bite work best when always pressurized, as they can be easily removed with zero pressure and a small tool.
It appears you have a good tubing bender from the appearance of the bends you have made in the copper. If the cooler does not flex excessively, my suggestion would be to make a section copper tube with 3 loops (you can see this on airplane pressure lines as well as brake lines from a master cylinder to the frame rails in many cars). The loops should be able to withstand some flex and he rubber hoses could be eliminated. The larger the loops, the more flex is distributed over the entire length.
that's a heck of a setup. I only did and after cooler and diy desiccant tube. it seems dry, but haven't measured relative humidity or anything. plus side is my desiccant tube was only $75 and holds 3lbs of silica gel. check out part two of the air dryer on my channel if u want to see how I went about it.
Great set up, will be upgrading mine soon. Thank You for explaining the details. Question: From your experience, what would the water decrease be, percentage wise, after you installed this set-up??
How do you get all the condensed water out of the coil of copper tube down in the water bucket? If that is the lowest point in the system it seems that it would quickly completely fill up with water.
That is an awesome setup! Thanks for the video and detailed explanation. Is that an entire kit you purchased for the engine to tank cooler? Is there a kit number? Or did you purchase everything separately? That all copper tubing looks great too. I purchased a cutter and threader for 3/4" galvanized pipe but that copper looks sharp! I didn't think it would hold that much pressure. But I really need an engine to tank cooler and water separator kit.
707SonomaComa I bought that on eBay it’s a universal condenser , I had to go to a hydraulic hose place and have a hose made to couple it together to the condenser ( the initial fittings only lasted for 6 months and then came apart ... that was a loud moment . So I went and got the hydraulic line made , been good ever since , I run that compressor to death and never get even a mist out of the end of any hose . They don’t sell that specific set up anymore but any universal condenser will work . It’s still the best modification I have ever made to any of my tools .
@@MrFireman164, so how much air pressure is actually in the transmission cooler? I saw one on Amazon, it us a 30 row 10 AN with a 7" electric fan. I just don't know how much pressure it needs to withstand. I have a 5hp with a 60 gal. tank.
Hey bud. Thanks so much for this detailed video!!! 2 questions if you don’t mind. Are any of the shark bite fittings leaking at all? What is the “kit” you got that came with all the fittings and hoses? Oh also, what material nipple did you use from the tank to the water trap regulator? I’m concerned about rust at this spot. Thanks again, hopefully my Quincy compressor will come alive soon! :)
ENZ PRINT CO. Hello, so this video is from 4 years ago, none of the shark bites have ever leaked and all the fittings are brass, the only issue I have ever had was with the clamps that came with the kit which I bought on eBay and of course they no longer sell. The set up is a universal condenser that is 24’’x14”x1.75”thick. The problem I had was the pressure on one of the hoses after about a year pulled lose and was blowing everywhere, scared the crap out of me when it happened, so I took my brass fitting to a hose shop that makes hydraulic hose and had them make me a hose to fit my set up, cost 25.00 and 3 years later still working like a champ. I can send you pics of it if your on Instagram and contact me at Mrfireman164
I got a curtis 7.5 And I've been seeing videos all over RUclips. You got one of the best set ups I've 👀!!!👍 just wondering about. A radiator and a fan to keep it cool??
Hey Roger,Is this what they call parallel high flow condenser ? And if so what size are the runners through the middle and tanks on the side.Thanks in Advance.
You have what are called HVLP fittings for paint you only need about 60 at the wall that would put you at about 25@your gun depending on the length of your hose.
Hey MrFireman, I was told by asikeric to check out your site for compressor setup. Didn't know that you were located in OK as well. Looks like i'll be following you set up for sure.
Hi. I liked your video. I’m adding an aftercooler to my Quincy 54 and have questions about the threads on the unloader valve. I’m coming off the compressor with a few elbows, a brass tee and check valve. This tee has a 1/4” NPT female thread that connects to a 1/4” flexible hose. The other end of the hose connects to the unloader valve at the pressure sensor. I removed the small copper tubing and want to run a line directly from unloader valve to compressor output. But my 1/4” NPT threads don’t fit that unloader valve. Do you know what kind of threads or coupling I need there? Same with the brass fitting on the tank. It has two 1/8” holes. One for a PRV and the other for the small copper tube. I need to plug that one side where the copper tube was. I’ve also removed the 1/2” tube that goes directly from compressor to tank. I’m going crazy here trying to figure out the threads. Quincy says they may be metric. Thanks for your help Paul
Seems like they are compression fittings that I bought from the plumbing department of Home Depot, but it’s been a lot of years since I have looked at it
Great setup. Do you think your pump it's getting bottle necked from the cooler you installed?becuase it seems like that cooler you installed the pipe is much smaller then the original pipe that was going from the pump straight to the tank.
What is that big clear hose coming off the compressor going into the bucket? Thanks I have 2 two stage compressors and I'm trying to use a 3 ton home condensing coil to eliminate water here in Southern Louisiana the land of high humidity.
Sorry to ask questions on a 3 yr old video, but did you do this to avoid draining the condensate from the bottom of the tank? I truly admire your setup. As someone with OCD, I think you outdid me! I have the same compressor, but I don't cool, dry or filter the air when it comes out of the second stage going to the tank. I am not bashing you at all. I 100% believe you when you say you have dry air at all of your drops. Which direction from T town? I am 40 miles SE on the Ark river. Flood territory
Tom Brown I’m not sure exactly how to answer this, I was getting water vapor out of the end of my hoses which is bad for tools and detrimental for paint jobs. This system works by taking the hot moist air leaving the compressor and having it run Thru the condenser where the air is cooled and allowed to condense the water vapor back into cooled water, when it hits the first water separator it is mostly water again where it is separated and drained before it gets into the tank, if any water vapor makes it past that it goes into the tank a drops to the bottom , where you can drain it however there is usually very little. From there it leaves the tank and immediately enters another separator. From there it climbs almost 10’ straight in 3/4” copper pipe , goes all the way across the shop and drops where the first drain valve is , no water has ever come out of that, then it goes thru a clear glass regulator/separator where I have never seen not even a drop of condensation , from there it goes to the next drop then goes straight up again and across to my regular air hose. I have a separate route for paint and filters which have been unchanged for 3 years and the toilet paper one is still brand new when I check it which I just did and it’s still perfect , then it goes thru the desiccant filter which again never has to be changed. Here’s the thing all that is overkill because vapor never makes it past the separator leaving the tank. Hope that helps, I love on Owasso Oklahoma.
MrFireman164 Sorry to mislead you as in “didn’t understand the whole system”. I think it’s great...do you still get any condensate from the tank? Nobody can legitimately say your not removing moisture from the system, because you definitely are and a great way also. Good ole Oklahoma humidity! Here at work we have 480 3 phase Quincys (15 of them) and our accu drains(automatic drains) keep busy, EVEN after the coolers and driers
what type of fittings does the compressor intake pipe have going to the compressor tank and head? I am about to do this, but I don't want a lot of down time.
Austin Hatcher I have had this set up for quite a while now and still get zero water out of my paint guns or air tools , it's the best thing I have done for my set up , worth every penny
I know this video is six years old but are those shark bite fittings the ones you get at homedepot and are they made for water only or are they specifically made for air only? What I'm trying to say is the ones for water, can they be used for air and is that what you used and if so how are they holding up leak wise? Great video buddy and very informative. Keep up the good work. 👍
Hi, I have almost identical setup based on yours, however I have an issue where my pre-tank RapidAir does not want to go down to zero. Eventually it does but it takes 15-20 minutes and by then the compressor kicks on again and the water never gets flushed. Do you have something else in your setup that bleeds that pressure and gets it down to zero? Thanks for the great video!
ZIM USA thanks , no mine bleeds of in 30 seconds or so , you might try working that little bleeder up and down on the water separator and see if that helps
ZIM USA alright there is a main pressure gauge coming out of the side of the tank and on the back of that there is a pop off valve that bleeds down takes about a minute
I also have a quincy but my pressure gauge is at the top not the side. It also has a pop off valve but I think it is only there for emergency. When the compressor shuts off, I do not here any hissing coming from it. I wonder if there is something in your controller that opens something to relieve the pressure in the pre-tank system when the compressor is off. Just googled and you may have a Pressure Switch Relief Valve which I may not have. I'll have to take apart my pressure switch and see.
What size barb fitting did you use for the hose? I got the same kit and 3/8 seems too small and I cannot get the 1/2 on for the life of me. Thanks for the video!
Vladimir Wooh I ended up going to a shop that builds hose and for 25.00 had a high pressure hydraulic hose made , because the barb fitting blew off after a few months of use
Vladimir Wooh I used the fitting that came with the condenser out of the condenser and that hooks up to the copper that runs into the bucket then into the hydraulic line which ties into the water trap . ruclips.net/video/ncuJiA0E7cg/видео.html Go to about 14:20 in on this vid and it shows the fittings
You are right, the copper pipe is not nescessary. Water will stay the bottom of it. The best way is put water separator, then oil separator, and IF you will, then activated carbon separator. All this under $250 ☺
Paul Granger eBay but they are not selling that one anymore, but you can get a universal car condenser and have hydraulic lines made to fit it, I had to swap the lines on mine to hydraulic because the fittings only held for six months
If you don't want to pinch off the flow, get RID of all the REDUCERS and use 3/4" Line through out the system. The small hoses and tubes ARE pinching off your system. Because of the small tubing you're using you could have gotten away with a 1/2" RapidAir Water Trap. Same size as the tubing your using would make no difference. I plan on doing a similar system my self without the Still Worm in the bucket. As soon as I come off the compressor going to a 3/4" Tube. Angle everything down so none of the water in the tubes backflow into the compressor. Then use a condenser with 3/4" fittings, Looking for a compressor tank with 3/4" Inlet and Outlet. You could have gotten away without using a Pressure Regulator Water Separator and just used a Water Separator that has a Max Working Pressure that exceeds compressors max pressure.
Alan Huss looks like I put this vid up over 3 years ago , this is the best system I have ever seen to get the water out of a system, I never run out of air , I just checked my toilet paper filter the other day that’s close to the paint system and it is still new from 3 years ago literally untouched, I have no doubt yours will work wonderfully as does mine.
@@MrFireman164 I get it. But, in the video you talk about not wanting to pinch off the air, so you use water separator with 3/4" NPT fittings. Okay the insane part I see in this video is that you have 3 reducers on both sides of this unit. You go from 1/2" to 3/4" back to 1/2", that makes no sense, and is a waste of money on all those reducers and an over sized water separator for this unit. A properly sized 1/2" Water Separator without all the reducers would have made sense, and saved you a bunch of money. Don't get me wrong, I like the effort you put into this video. If you really want to open your system up and really get it to flow. Looking at the video again if you really want to maximize this system, use one reducer to come off the pump going from 1/2" to 3/4" and then stick with 3/4". If the system you built in the video is working, good for you. I suspect it's because all that 3/4" tubing you routed around your shop is acting like a secondary air tank. So did you take off the Still Worm? Keep up the good work.
George Spangler system is the best thing I have ever done for my compressor never ever get water coming from the hoses but apparently you know it all so just keep on knowing all and will stick with what works
@@MrFireman164is comment is 100% correct, The 3/4 inch capacity is restricted by your inlet and outlet pipe size especially at the beginning of your piping. Your system is very nice don't think he was dissing your system.
country flyer I get a lot of criticism here on RUclips sometimes it’s hard to tell the difference, had to have that hose specially made and that’s all they had , it works with zero issues, and I paint cars and sand blast
@@countryflyer4536 no o wasn't dissing,,,,I'm just inquisitive,,I like the system,,,,but the restriction makes me wonder before I do it if I would be causing excessive heat up in my compressor
The bucket is useless you need to get much higher temp the you get off that line . You be better tuning throw oil and that still not needed. And you well get a air loss with shark bit fitting . Just soft solder it and be done
@@MrFireman164 that's good,,,at the beach it gets really cold and pipes contract and when the water is turned on they tend to blow off,,I think it's the combination of water pushing a column of air,,,
TheBobbykey well I have painted multiple cars with it, sandblasted with it and it’s been water free and has as much pressure as I want, so take your bullshit comment somewhere else
Thank you for the detailed layout of your compressor line system. I'm having water issues as well and I need to address it quick before I ruin more tools and I like the pre-tank cooler you have so I'm going to steal your idea for my setup. I really appreciate you for taking the time to explain the system!
No problem, hope it helps
Very nice setup.
I've used those large fittings on 1" impacts. They are high high flow, but a pain in the ass to couple/decouple when you're in freezing weather.
Shark bite work best when always pressurized, as they can be easily removed with zero pressure and a small tool.
Nice setup you got there have you thought about putting a radiator or a fan on your air compressor to keep it cool??
It appears you have a good tubing bender from the appearance of the bends you have made in the copper. If the cooler does not flex excessively, my suggestion would be to make a section copper tube with 3 loops (you can see this on airplane pressure lines as well as brake lines from a master cylinder to the frame rails in many cars). The loops should be able to withstand some flex and he rubber hoses could be eliminated. The larger the loops, the more flex is distributed over the entire length.
that's a heck of a setup. I only did and after cooler and diy desiccant tube. it seems dry, but haven't measured relative humidity or anything. plus side is my desiccant tube was only $75 and holds 3lbs of silica gel. check out part two of the air dryer on my channel if u want to see how I went about it.
Hodge-Podge Garage cool I will check it out
Great set up, will be upgrading mine soon. Thank You for explaining the details. Question: From your experience, what would the water decrease be, percentage wise, after you installed this set-up??
wilfredo reyes 99.9%
EXcellent video
Best setup i've seen! You mentioned it's a kit. Whats the kit called and how much? thanks in advance
Michael Ortiz
www.ebay.com/itm/271643678218
How do you get all the condensed water out of the coil of copper tube down in the water bucket? If that is the lowest point in the system it seems that it would quickly completely fill up with water.
The air pressure pushes it into the first separator
That is an awesome setup! Thanks for the video and detailed explanation.
Is that an entire kit you purchased for the engine to tank cooler? Is there a kit number? Or did you purchase everything separately?
That all copper tubing looks great too. I purchased a cutter and threader for 3/4" galvanized pipe but that copper looks sharp! I didn't think it would hold that much pressure. But I really need an engine to tank cooler and water separator kit.
707SonomaComa I bought that on eBay it’s a universal condenser , I had to go to a hydraulic hose place and have a hose made to couple it together to the condenser ( the initial fittings only lasted for 6 months and then came apart ... that was a loud moment . So I went and got the hydraulic line made , been good ever since , I run that compressor to death and never get even a mist out of the end of any hose . They don’t sell that specific set up anymore but any universal condenser will work . It’s still the best modification I have ever made to any of my tools .
@@MrFireman164, so how much air pressure is actually in the transmission cooler? I saw one on Amazon, it us a 30 row 10 AN with a 7" electric fan.
I just don't know how much pressure it needs to withstand. I have a 5hp with a 60 gal. tank.
Awesome set up. One question. What type of cooper tubing are you running. Type M or L ?
Luke Skywalker 3/4 L
I'm thinking of getting a QT-54 like you have. Does it keep up pretty good for your shop?
absolutely , everything I throw at it
Hey bud. Thanks so much for this detailed video!!!
2 questions if you don’t mind.
Are any of the shark bite fittings leaking at all?
What is the “kit” you got that came with all the fittings and hoses?
Oh also, what material nipple did you use from the tank to the water trap regulator? I’m concerned about rust at this spot.
Thanks again, hopefully my Quincy compressor will come alive soon!
:)
ENZ PRINT CO. Hello, so this video is from 4 years ago, none of the shark bites have ever leaked and all the fittings are brass, the only issue I have ever had was with the clamps that came with the kit which I bought on eBay and of course they no longer sell. The set up is a universal condenser that is 24’’x14”x1.75”thick. The problem I had was the pressure on one of the hoses after about a year pulled lose and was blowing everywhere, scared the crap out of me when it happened, so I took my brass fitting to a hose shop that makes hydraulic hose and had them make me a hose to fit my set up, cost 25.00 and 3 years later still working like a champ. I can send you pics of it if your on Instagram and contact me at Mrfireman164
I got a curtis 7.5 And I've been seeing videos all over RUclips. You got one of the best set ups I've 👀!!!👍 just wondering about. A radiator and a fan to keep it cool??
Guadalupe Rios my shop is climate controlled and the pulleys on the compressor are like fans that pull air Thru the condenser
Hey Roger,Is this what they call parallel high flow condenser ? And if so what size are the runners through the middle and tanks on the side.Thanks in Advance.
TeamHeavyChevy1 yes it is , and all I can tell you is it’s about 2” thick so not sure if the runners are 1-1/2 or 2”
Was the check valve originally on top of the tank? If so did you relocate it?
Perry Thomasson I didn't move anything from the original location that was on the compressor.
You have what are called HVLP fittings for paint you only need about 60 at the wall that would put you at about 25@your gun depending on the length of your hose.
David Greene spi owner recommended to me as high at the wall as you can go then regulate at the gun . So that what I do and have never had a issue
Hey MrFireman, I was told by asikeric to check out your site for compressor setup. Didn't know that you were located in OK as well. Looks like i'll be following you set up for sure.
Tony Welch where are you in ok ?
MrFireman164. N. Edmond
Tony Welch so you are only 100 miles or so away
@@MrFireman164 you down south?
Tony Welch right outside Tulsa
Hi. I liked your video. I’m adding an aftercooler to my Quincy 54 and have questions about the threads on the unloader valve.
I’m coming off the compressor with a few elbows, a brass tee and check valve. This tee has a 1/4” NPT female thread that connects to a 1/4” flexible hose. The other end of the hose connects to the unloader valve at the pressure sensor. I removed the small copper tubing and want to run a line directly from unloader valve to compressor output. But my 1/4” NPT threads don’t fit that unloader valve. Do you know what kind of threads or coupling I need there?
Same with the brass fitting on the tank. It has two 1/8” holes. One for a PRV and the other for the small copper tube. I need to plug that one side where the copper tube was.
I’ve also removed the 1/2” tube that goes directly from compressor to tank.
I’m going crazy here trying to figure out the threads. Quincy says they may be metric.
Thanks for your help
Paul
Seems like they are compression fittings that I bought from the plumbing department of Home Depot, but it’s been a lot of years since I have looked at it
Nice setup
Thanks
Great setup. Do you think your pump it's getting bottle necked from the cooler you installed?becuase it seems like that cooler you installed the pipe is much smaller then the original pipe that was going from the pump straight to the tank.
Thanks this set up works amazingly well I'm so happy with it I wouldn't change a thing on it
Eddie delacruz
Its not a larger pipe...
It just has fins on it, so it can disipate some of the heat.(heat sink)
bad ass setup.
Thanks
What is that big clear hose coming off the compressor going into the bucket? Thanks I have 2 two stage compressors and I'm trying to use a 3 ton home condensing coil to eliminate water here in Southern Louisiana the land of high humidity.
I put that on there because my motor was sending oily fumes into the air and I was concerned about fisheyes so that was my fix
Sorry to ask questions on a 3 yr old video, but did you do this to avoid draining the condensate from the bottom of the tank? I truly admire your setup. As someone with OCD, I think you outdid me! I have the same compressor, but I don't cool, dry or filter the air when it comes out of the second stage going to the tank. I am not bashing you at all. I 100% believe you when you say you have dry air at all of your drops. Which direction from T town? I am 40 miles SE on the Ark river. Flood territory
Tom Brown I’m not sure exactly how to answer this, I was getting water vapor out of the end of my hoses which is bad for tools and detrimental for paint jobs. This system works by taking the hot moist air leaving the compressor and having it run Thru the condenser where the air is cooled and allowed to condense the water vapor back into cooled water, when it hits the first water separator it is mostly water again where it is separated and drained before it gets into the tank, if any water vapor makes it past that it goes into the tank a drops to the bottom , where you can drain it however there is usually very little. From there it leaves the tank and immediately enters another separator. From there it climbs almost 10’ straight in 3/4” copper pipe , goes all the way across the shop and drops where the first drain valve is , no water has ever come out of that, then it goes thru a clear glass regulator/separator where I have never seen not even a drop of condensation , from there it goes to the next drop then goes straight up again and across to my regular air hose. I have a separate route for paint and filters which have been unchanged for 3 years and the toilet paper one is still brand new when I check it which I just did and it’s still perfect , then it goes thru the desiccant filter which again never has to be changed. Here’s the thing all that is overkill because vapor never makes it past the separator leaving the tank. Hope that helps, I love on Owasso Oklahoma.
MrFireman164 Sorry to mislead you as in “didn’t understand the whole system”. I think it’s great...do you still get any condensate from the tank? Nobody can legitimately say your not removing moisture from the system, because you definitely are and a great way also. Good ole Oklahoma humidity! Here at work we have 480 3 phase Quincys (15 of them) and our accu drains(automatic drains) keep busy, EVEN after the coolers and driers
Tom Green yes about once a week or so I will reach down and open the tank drain and will get a short burst of water
that's a top of the line set up
I need that for my air-compressor... I get a lot of water with having it hooked up to my other air-compressor with the 80 gallon tank..
It work well for sure
what type of fittings does the compressor intake pipe have going to the compressor tank and head? I am about to do this, but I don't want a lot of down time.
Austin Hatcher compression fittings
Thanks man. I got the same compressor and excited to get to painting my c10, but I live in the humidity
Austin Hatcher I have had this set up for quite a while now and still get zero water out of my paint guns or air tools , it's the best thing I have done for my set up , worth every penny
Yea man I'm really excited. Thanks for making the video. hopefully I get similar results
Rapid Air K93217 is available at Northern tool 69$. You have to tell them it is 69$ online or they will charge instore price of 79$.
thanks
I know this video is six years old but are those shark bite fittings the ones you get at homedepot and are they made for water only or are they specifically made for air only? What I'm trying to say is the ones for water, can they be used for air and is that what you used and if so how are they holding up leak wise? Great video buddy and very informative. Keep up the good work. 👍
They are made for water, but six years later and no leaks, I have run the compressor at 125 psi with no issues ever.
@@MrFireman164 Thank you for the fast reply and the info buddy. 👍
Hi, I have almost identical setup based on yours, however I have an issue where my pre-tank RapidAir does not want to go down to zero. Eventually it does but it takes 15-20 minutes and by then the compressor kicks on again and the water never gets flushed. Do you have something else in your setup that bleeds that pressure and gets it down to zero? Thanks for the great video!
ZIM USA thanks , no mine bleeds of in 30 seconds or so , you might try working that little bleeder up and down on the water separator and see if that helps
So when I hear a hiss while your pressure is going down to zero, where is that coming from exactly?
ZIM USA let me go look to see for sure
ZIM USA alright there is a main pressure gauge coming out of the side of the tank and on the back of that there is a pop off valve that bleeds down takes about a minute
I also have a quincy but my pressure gauge is at the top not the side. It also has a pop off valve but I think it is only there for emergency. When the compressor shuts off, I do not here any hissing coming from it. I wonder if there is something in your controller that opens something to relieve the pressure in the pre-tank system when the compressor is off. Just googled and you may have a Pressure Switch Relief Valve which I may not have. I'll have to take apart my pressure switch and see.
What size barb fitting did you use for the hose? I got the same kit and 3/8 seems too small and I cannot get the 1/2 on for the life of me. Thanks for the video!
Vladimir Wooh I ended up going to a shop that builds hose and for 25.00 had a high pressure hydraulic hose made , because the barb fitting blew off after a few months of use
Were they able to match the condenser fittings for you or did you still use the barb fitting on the condenser end?
Vladimir Wooh I used the fitting that came with the condenser out of the condenser and that hooks up to the copper that runs into the bucket then into the hydraulic line which ties into the water trap .
ruclips.net/video/ncuJiA0E7cg/видео.html Go to about 14:20 in on this vid and it shows the fittings
What shop did you go to? I caannot find a shop that can find a match for the condenser fitting. Tried tacktor and automotive shops.
I'm going to pm you my phone number and I will sent you pics of the hose The company I went to was Ameriflex hose and accessory company here locally.
1/2 soft copper in 50" rolls
where did you get the stand offs on the wall for the pipe? what brand? thanks
james Quarles Jr. Lowe's, Cambridge resources
copper plated bell hangers
do you have any problems with the SharkBite fitting leaking, since you have been running it this way?
james Quarles Jr. no problems at all
You are right, the copper pipe is not nescessary. Water will stay the bottom of it. The best way is put water separator, then oil separator, and IF you will, then activated carbon separator. All this under $250 ☺
Don’t need any of that with this system, that was the point
How's it holding up, after a few years now? anything you would change?
ruclips.net/video/8lBkcU0fyNU/видео.html
Working great still
@@MrFireman164 nice, i had thought about adding a condensor coil to mine, but i thing couple of loops will do me well enough.
The “brazing” looks more like soldering. Are you sure you brazed it?
Yeah you are so Corey did I say brazing?? Silly me thanks for the correction. I should probably delete this video
I need a dryer for my everlast plasma cutter. That's a nice setup.
Nice system! I'm looking at doing something similar in my shop and someone suggested checking your video out. Subscribed too!
I love it , never get any moisture anymore , thanks for watching and subscribing
Where did you get that kit ??
Paul Granger eBay but they are not selling that one anymore, but you can get a universal car condenser and have hydraulic lines made to fit it, I had to swap the lines on mine to hydraulic because the fittings only held for six months
MrFireman164 thanks
It looks like you defeated the purpose of the 3/4” Maxair with 1/2” copper on both sides and bushings on the Maxair to step the 3/4” down to 1/2”.
LTVoyager yep got me again
I feel so defeated
If you don't want to pinch off the flow, get RID of all the REDUCERS and use 3/4" Line through out the system. The small hoses and tubes ARE pinching off your system. Because of the small tubing you're using you could have gotten away with a 1/2" RapidAir Water Trap. Same size as the tubing your using would make no difference. I plan on doing a similar system my self without the Still Worm in the bucket. As soon as I come off the compressor going to a 3/4" Tube. Angle everything down so none of the water in the tubes backflow into the compressor. Then use a condenser with 3/4" fittings, Looking for a compressor tank with 3/4" Inlet and Outlet. You could have gotten away without using a Pressure Regulator Water Separator and just used a Water Separator that has a Max Working Pressure that exceeds compressors max pressure.
Alan Huss looks like I put this vid up over 3 years ago , this is the best system I have ever seen to get the water out of a system, I never run out of air , I just checked my toilet paper filter the other day that’s close to the paint system and it is still new from 3 years ago literally untouched, I have no doubt yours will work wonderfully as does mine.
@@MrFireman164 I get it. But, in the video you talk about not wanting to pinch off the air, so you use water separator with 3/4" NPT fittings. Okay the insane part I see in this video is that you have 3 reducers on both sides of this unit. You go from 1/2" to 3/4" back to 1/2", that makes no sense, and is a waste of money on all those reducers and an over sized water separator for this unit. A properly sized 1/2" Water Separator without all the reducers would have made sense, and saved you a bunch of money. Don't get me wrong, I like the effort you put into this video. If you really want to open your system up and really get it to flow. Looking at the video again if you really want to maximize this system, use one reducer to come off the pump going from 1/2" to 3/4" and then stick with 3/4". If the system you built in the video is working, good for you. I suspect it's because all that 3/4" tubing you routed around your shop is acting like a secondary air tank. So did you take off the Still Worm? Keep up the good work.
I need to dry the air going to my everlast plasma cutter
Todd Paulsen it’s been years and I get zero moisture out of any of my hoses... ever
6:20. Thats not brazing.... Its just soldering copper pipe. Also called sweating.
Also. Your plumbing must have cost more than the compressor.
Nick H thanks and yes it was pricey but it works unbelievable good , I never get water out of my hoses
3 quarter inch, but you reduced down to 3/8,,, so what is the difference? It's still restricted
George Spangler system is the best thing I have ever done for my compressor never ever get water coming from the hoses but apparently you know it all so just keep on knowing all and will stick with what works
@@MrFireman164is comment is 100% correct, The 3/4 inch capacity is restricted by your inlet and outlet pipe size especially at the beginning of your piping. Your system is very nice don't think he was dissing your system.
country flyer I get a lot of criticism here on RUclips sometimes it’s hard to tell the difference, had to have that hose specially made and that’s all they had , it works with zero issues, and I paint cars and sand blast
@@countryflyer4536 no o wasn't dissing,,,,I'm just inquisitive,,I like the system,,,,but the restriction makes me wonder before I do it if I would be causing excessive heat up in my compressor
Flow(CFM) vs PSI...go hand in hand and sometimes get mistaken for each other
M E R I C A
Thats a hot mess compared to the way its done in 2021
The bucket is useless you need to get much higher temp the you get off that line . You be better tuning throw oil and that still not needed. And you well get a air loss with shark bit fitting . Just soft solder it and be done
Shark bites,, no way,,,I've seen them fail many times at 50 psi on a elbow.
George Spangler this vid is 3 years old I use this system constantly with no failures Ever , so I’m good with what I have .
@@MrFireman164 that's good,,,at the beach it gets really cold and pipes contract and when the water is turned on they tend to blow off,,I think it's the combination of water pushing a column of air,,,
its smaller than 3/4 before the regulator ,so 3/4 after that is useless
TheBobbykey well I have painted multiple cars with it, sandblasted with it and it’s been water free and has as much pressure as I want, so take your bullshit comment somewhere else
THANK YOU LOOK UP IDS Blast.com
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