I have a Torchmate Tomahawk 625 (40amp) set up. I have been trying to get 'top dross' out of my cuts. I've tried almost everything. I'm in a arid climate at around 7300' altitude. I still use a small "sacrificial" drier/filter right off the compressor and then a Harbor Fright canister which never seems to collect moisture. The small one does a little. The machine has it's own air gauge which I dial in at 90psi. I've adjusted the compressor and the pressure coming out of the canister/filter/drier to get 90 at the machine. I think I've got the bases covered on dry clean air. I've replaced all the consumables in the torch and have tried different speeds and cutting heights but the top dross still remains. It's more of a small ridge than dross. There's not much but still, I would like to eliminate it. The machine is about 12 years old. I'm cutting 12ga mostly. Since I do artwork and have to buff pieces before cutting, I don't want to add more buffing work after cutting. Any tips to address this issue are appreciated.
I hard piped mine to the table and have a 4" gauge at the machine I can see from most of the shop. Having that gauge has saved me from having the machine stop cutting in the middle of a job. But now with 2 upright 175psi compressors had no close calls
Hey I am just looking for solutions as most of us here. Thanks for your video. My question now is would it be cheaper to get oxigen bottles from my gas shop and not go through with buying these air dryers water separaters. Living in Japan 82% humidity and I am just having gallons of water in my tank. What makes it impossible to cut.
Pure oxygen supports combustion very well but maybe something like Scuba breathing air tanks could work…if you cut small jobs.. there are other drying options. Keep looking and thinking.
I have a Torchmate Tomahawk 625 (40amp) set up. I have been trying to get 'top dross' out of my cuts. I've tried almost everything. I'm in a arid climate at around 7300' altitude. I still use a small "sacrificial" drier/filter right off the compressor and then a Harbor Fright canister which never seems to collect moisture. The small one does a little. The machine has it's own air gauge which I dial in at 90psi. I've adjusted the compressor and the pressure coming out of the canister/filter/drier to get 90 at the machine. I think I've got the bases covered on dry clean air.
I've replaced all the consumables in the torch and have tried different speeds and cutting heights but the top dross still remains. It's more of a small ridge than dross. There's not much but still, I would like to eliminate it. The machine is about 12 years old. I'm cutting 12ga mostly. Since I do artwork and have to buff pieces before cutting, I don't want to add more buffing work after cutting.
Any tips to address this issue are appreciated.
I hard piped mine to the table and have a 4" gauge at the machine I can see from most of the shop. Having that gauge has saved me from having the machine stop cutting in the middle of a job. But now with 2 upright 175psi compressors had no close calls
Would using a second or even a third storage tank in series dry any air if it let the air cool before going on to the next tank?
Hey I am just looking for solutions as most of us here. Thanks for your video. My question now is would it be cheaper to get oxigen bottles from my gas shop and not go through with buying these air dryers water separaters. Living in Japan 82% humidity and I am just having gallons of water in my tank. What makes it impossible to cut.
Pure oxygen supports combustion very well but maybe something like Scuba breathing air tanks could work…if you cut small jobs.. there are other drying options. Keep looking and thinking.
an aftercooler from the compressor head before it hits the tank take 90% or more water out,
Rusty water is common for my tank, even though it's still new.
Wouldn't an intercooler be efficient and less trouble than these spin down filters. Any pressure loss would still be ahead of the pressure switch.
💪👍💯