Hello from California. What hone grit did u use for the piston cylinder ? I used a 240 grit flex hone (ball) on my cylinder and it was to rough ! The piston rings are my cylinder bore and it’s pretty much done for . It was a used engine that was ran before . I check the ring gap afterwards and it was at 0.019 !!! Ugh 😩. I had to buy a new block . So back to my question . Afterwards I found out that it’s best to use a 320 grit or 400 . Which grit did u use ?
320 stone Ball hones are too aggressive if keeping stock bore,but you know that now,lol I would have ran a .019 gap unless this is a race motor of something like that and just added a vent it the crank case But that’s me
@@DrArtshotrodrehab yes it’s a race engine . When I drained the oil , there was sooo much metal flakes 😩!! So 320 , ok Ty🙏🏻. I heard that 400 is good too but takes a min for the piston rings to seat . I’ve used the stones to hone a bore before but I have a hard time trying to get the cross hatching .
First do a compression test on both engines and figure out which one is in better condition. Depending on how bad the worse one is, hone the cylinder a little bit to redo the crosshatched and then start your build, trust
By lowering head, block clearances and using a thinner head gasket, you bring the head closer. That closes the pushrod gap, not open it. Also, if people insist on surface machining heads etc. themselves they should use glass as a flat surface. I never recommend inexperienced people do this, its way too easy to screw up.
That's the HEMI engine, I can tell by the head, it's probably not a good idea to do any milling on the engine, because of the valve clearances are to close. It's always better to use the non-HEMI if you're going to be doing any milling.
@mrbillpro it all depends how much material is removed. A couple thou is ok. After that, pushrods need shortened and possibly some other things need to be addressed. Chances are that if someone at home is doing it, they are only guessing at the amount of material being removed.
@Guns_N_Gears Yeah, I don't personally know, never have tried it, it's just everything I have read or videos I have watched, say it's not a good idea on the HEMI engine.
I gotta say , this isn’t very useful how to. To much is skipped for a person that is just looking for complete how to. No Lapping / no coil gapping etc, etc. a lot is missing Like I said not a good video for someone that’s looking for comprehensive how to ..
Nice build!
Great video brotha!!!! Nice engine work!!!
Pretty cool build I got a 212 that sits out side on a old Areins snow blower starts every year now I know how they look apart!😂😂
Hello from California. What hone grit did u use for the piston cylinder ? I used a 240 grit flex hone (ball) on my cylinder and it was to rough ! The piston rings are my cylinder bore and it’s pretty much done for . It was a used engine that was ran before . I check the ring gap afterwards and it was at 0.019 !!! Ugh 😩. I had to buy a new block . So back to my question . Afterwards I found out that it’s best to use a 320 grit or 400 . Which grit did u use ?
320 stone
Ball hones are too aggressive if keeping stock bore,but you know that now,lol
I would have ran a .019 gap unless this is a race motor of something like that and just added a vent it the crank case
But that’s me
@@DrArtshotrodrehab yes it’s a race engine . When I drained the oil , there was sooo much metal flakes 😩!! So 320 , ok Ty🙏🏻. I heard that 400 is good too but takes a min for the piston rings to seat . I’ve used the stones to hone a bore before but I have a hard time trying to get the cross hatching .
I might try a rebuild on one of the motors I have, I just got a minibike with a spare motor in a trade, can't wait to tear into it lol
First do a compression test on both engines and figure out which one is in better condition. Depending on how bad the worse one is, hone the cylinder a little bit to redo the crosshatched and then start your build, trust
👍🚒
I never was good on small engines, I do ok with full size cars and trucks.
Hey man just so you know, Ali express sells the predator 212 billet rods for $16
Thanks!
Is it worth rebuilding a stock hemi that has been abused?
Oh yea
Runs great
Why didn't you remove the governor assembly
you put that carb gasket on wrong!
Why does google recommend this when im specifically looking for torque specs
I don’t know why Google does it but there is a torque spec sheet that pops up two or three times during the video but thanks for watching anyway
Any chance you found torque specs and could send a link
www.arcracing.com/blog/box-stock-project-196cc-engine-and-torque-specifications/
@@DrArtshotrodrehab wow you actually replied thank you so much.
By lowering head, block clearances and using a thinner head gasket, you bring the head closer. That closes the pushrod gap, not open it.
Also, if people insist on surface machining heads etc. themselves they should use glass as a flat surface. I never recommend inexperienced people do this, its way too easy to screw up.
That's the HEMI engine, I can tell by the head, it's probably not a good idea to do any milling on the engine, because of the valve clearances are to close. It's always better to use the non-HEMI if you're going to be doing any milling.
@mrbillpro it all depends how much material is removed. A couple thou is ok. After that, pushrods need shortened and possibly some other things need to be addressed. Chances are that if someone at home is doing it, they are only guessing at the amount of material being removed.
@Guns_N_Gears Yeah, I don't personally know, never have tried it, it's just everything I have read or videos I have watched, say it's not a good idea on the HEMI engine.
I gotta say , this isn’t very useful how to. To much is skipped for a person that is just looking for complete how to. No
Lapping / no coil gapping etc, etc. a lot is missing
Like I said not a good video for someone that’s looking for comprehensive how to ..
You, all like to waste money