Man I literally spent hours upon hours throughout November/December doing research and building a Predator 212 for a big minibike race. 99% of info about these motors on the internet is subjective or a secret due to Kart racing teams running these motors competitively. Thanks for making these videos and keep up the good work!
Don't get me wrong, I love the content and the videos.Type of videos all of us want. I appreciate the effort. I just don't understand the high rpm pulls so quickly on break in oil. Normally two oil changes on break in oil are in order to remove assembly lube and tiny metal particles that come with these types of engines when new.
RBG does engine pulls off camera with the break in oil. Break can be as little 15 minutes- top engine builders with diamond hones and proper hone grits. That said, leak down testing/no oil residue inside the exhaust port verifies the rings have seated.
@markyoung9964 I asked that very question, "Was a proper break in done before that high rpm pull? Am I missing something?" That being said, I would not do full rpm pulls on contaminated break in oil. I race prep Briggs Animal lo206 engines and have championship hardware to show. I have found the engines put out more power and last longer if the proper break in procedure is followed. Mostly decontamination the oil is the biggest deal. I also have a stage 4 kit on a predator hemi from NR racing with a 280 cam and 2.1 ratio rockers. I do not speak just to speak. I speak from experience.
At this level i dont think you'll see real big gains from the head maybe 0.5-1hp but rockers heck yes! Do just the intake rocker dyno it, then do both, you'll see how little effect that extra lift has on the exhaust side.
This is a great series! Absolutely love it. Really hope the 459 predator gets thrown in the mix. Just started a Yamaha G2 project and am planning on dropping a 459 in it. (It has no engine so for my purposes I figure the 459 is the way to go.) For this year I plan on just running it stock but next winter tear it down and liven it up a little bit. Great series, keep up the fantastic work and have a wonderful day.
Just a few thoughts, are there cooling upgrades for these engines? With hp, comes heat. I see the new flywheel appears to have a slightly different fin design but is that enough? How long would one expect the lifespan to be without some sort of cooling upgrade? Which could be a neat addition to the series, upgrading the oiling system and adding cooling to it with external oil cooling to see how it effects overall engine temps. Have you considered non traditional engine choices for up coming builds? I know they can be harder to find bolt on parts for, but it would be very interesting to see. For instance I have a Rhino 450. They're slow but reliable, and I'll likely replace it with a maverick eventually. But without aftermarket support for real hp gains it would be very interesting to see how much improvement can be made from engines without thst support. Things like playing with different size carbs, porting and polishing, intake and exhaust upgrades. Mabey even a couple homemade turbo set ups. Things that can be done with any engine that just doesn't have the benefit of a huge following to bring parts and experience to the table. Also, this show is getting a very much too scripted vibe. Similar to the old spike tv shows. We all know damn well those e-clips turn into ballistic missles just by looking at them wrong. I don't know where you got those low tension stunt clips from, but it really takes away from the realism.
Still BS testing up to this point, since this is the first time AFR where attempted to hold to around 13. Also, with engine being able to rev'd to 6K, first time that billet flywheel with advance should be bought in to play. Simply, at this point, what is the difference in HP between a total stock motor at 13AFR reving to 4K, verses motor to this point now its AFR at 13, but rev'g more RPMS to wear it out faster with the cost of extra parts.
Would love to see a best bang for the buck test..thinner gasket, diy head work, cheap clone carb etc. How a broke kid would build it. See how that stacks up to the $$$$ build
As you show its not just peak numbers but area under the curve that improves It would be great to see side by side graphs or overlays Peak hp does not tell the whole story Great video mate!
I plan on doing a lot more with this series over the next few months. We will be doing graph comparisons to show where you gain the power and all the info. Thanks for watching!
That's true but he does show the Dyno chart and I paused the video to see the gains at lower rpms and to see when the most HP started to ramp in but I'm sure that he is going to be doing alot more with these Dyno videos
@@lawrencecoleman7850 That's actually what a dyno is for, too many people forget that it's a tuning tool and there's more to those fancy numbers they care so much about. I love that Greg shows the graphs and all for us that's where you see if your work did what you were looking for.
Is there any way you could dyno a 212 ghost, with the ghost "performance kit", compare the straight intake vs the 90 degree, and do a stock ghost carb vs mikuni, i think that would be interesting
So the fake mikuni carb would have had it at 15+hp zz... I can't wait to see everything you have in store! I complained about you in the past in the comments section and I was wrong. You kick ass and I appreciate you.
I ordered the stage 2 kit that comes with all these parts from your affiliated links but I just noticed they come with 22lbs springs and you say 26lbs …. Do I need to reorder need 26lbs springs…….. and lastly do you think my 30series torque converter will be able to take it?
The small valve 14cc head is a popular budget option....giving up valve size vs compression. You could compare a ported 14cc to a ported stock valve on the same engine and I believe same head gasket.
I have a huge respect for all you RUclips builders/makers out there you literally produce and market Hollywood quality content weekly without aides or other actors just you some friends and your garage all the while working your daily jobs and raising a family the majority of you.. it's pretty nuts honestly....you sir are an over achiever and have no gripe about a small issue with filming issues. Keep up the phenomenal job
Normally great videos! On these Dyno Test, You know all the Engine DATA, but most People don't it would be nice to have all the Engine Data, CC, CAM Spec, Valve Spring lbs, Valve Sizes used, Carb Size, Type of Air Filter used, Type of Exhaust used. A list of hp made at different rpm, other than just Max hp@rpm. These Honda/Clone Engines are being used on more Products every day. Go Carts, Off Road Karts, Snowmobiles, Snow Gliders, Air Boats, Mini Bikes, Hover Craft, Mud Boats, Part 103 Ultralight Airplanes, PPC, Kit Planes, Hover Craft, etc. Like for Airplane use they would be limited to Max 5500rpm for Durability and that's just for Takeoff 2-3min and then Power Reduced to 75% to 90% depending on Speed or GPH use. Part 103 Ultralights can only carry 5 Gallons. Part 103 and most Small Kitplanes use 26hp to 40hp Engines. The Lazair Ultralight first used (2) 5.5hp Chainsaw Engines then upgraded to used (2) Rotax 185 2 Strokes at 9.4hp@5000rpm each, then upgraded to (2) Solo 210 Engines 15hp each. All Planes have a Max Takeoff Weight (MTOW). A Good Power to Weight Ratio is 1kw for 10 kg to Fly Well. The Lazairs MTOW is 450 lbs = 204.1166 kg / 10 kg = 20.41166 kw needed to Fly Well = 27.37249 hp / 2 = 13.686 hp or 13.7hp needed for each Engine. Which these Honda/Clone 200/212 engines can make that hp@5000rpm. ruclips.net/video/XOQOW2Gqs7Q/видео.html
In your experience what causes the drop or wave in power about about 6500? I would figure valve float, but I don't know anything about these engines. In a multi cylinder automotive engine, thats pretty much what it looks like when you loose valve stability.
That Ams Oil is awesome stuff. I swear I get an extra 200 rpm with it in my 2 stroke snowmobile. The exhaust pipes get a little sticky and messy but it's worth it.
That was good, but one thing I would like to have seen was the graph of the last one with the same carb against this run to see the changes in where the HP is with the different Camshafts. Also when you do the head, compare the two stock heads, against two ported heads (maybe just use a thick gasket to compensate for the lack of dish in the piston for the original style head)
You should check out David Vizard he explains rocker ratios and how they don't always do what they're supposed to each one will lift the valve off the seat at a different speed very good information to learn
I'm iffy on the magnetic oil dipstick since the one I bought off Amazon and the magnetic came out of it and stuck to the connecting rod of my generator, got lucky that it didn't destroy anything
Just picked up a 212, thought I was going to leave it stock until I found your channel. You earned a new sub here, thanks for spending my money red beard.
Can't wait to see what some port work does to compliment the cam. It's very cool to see the air/fuel being shown in these last couple videos. You should get into that a bit more, showing jet changes and what not is required with each change to keep it in line. Very cool stuff!
It might be possible to remove the HP dip around 7000 RPM, by lengthening or shortening the intake tube between the carb and the head. It would be interesting to see how that will affect the HP output curve, and should be very easy and cheap to do. Since the cam was changed you changed the intake duration and resonance, and it normally means you also nee to change intake length to match the cam.
I was really curious about the lubrication of a lot of these predator motors and Honda engines at general oil thrower at the bottom of the connecting rod I made a clear side cover ran the motor and was surprised to see that the lubricant only flung around the gears the teeth themselves and would drip down on the connecting rod bearing and other parts after you shut it off So I took a file and made a very small flat portion on the oil thrower towards the front of the motor made a nightinday difference with the way the oil splashed around
I hope you dyno test a 301 hemi Predator. I've had a lot of naysayers over the years tell me they're junk and not worth building. My Coleman CT200U-EX was a completely different bike going from a "stage 2" small block to a basically stock 301 with only a header & governor delete.
According to GPS, I should be pushing 15hp lol. So you're trying to tell me I'm only pushing around 11hp? Lol nah, no way. Doesn't feel like 11hp, feels more than that. I have all this on my stand up scooter. If you want to check it out, it's on my channel if you're interested. It's 1 of a kind 😁 I only plan to make it more powerful.
Dam! Kind of disappointed lol. This whole time I thought I was pushing 15hp when in reality it's probably more like 12hp with the clone Kuni. Why on earth would GPS lie about their #s like that? They must have cheated their dyno #s just for sales. 😠.
RB, I was thinking, I'd rather have a cam with that same duration, but a lot less LOBE lift. I could regain the lost VALVE lift with 1.2 rockers, and not have to grind on the crank counterweight.
Dear Red Beard, Thank you for always encouraging and entertaining me when I’m bored. Thank you for uploading some of the best content and always going out of this world explaining stuff to us. And most of all thank you for being on RUclips. This channel is highly underrated if you know what I mean. God Bless. Sincerely, Jalen Knight
Something i missed in these 4 episodes.. did you change the Piston??? because i noticed it was flat. is that stock??? It's also odd that you have a cast valve cover when HF shows stamped valve covers on the predator 212
Can anybody tell me if a predator 212 double magnet flywheel for a set of dual charging coils will fit and work on a tillotson 212? Gopowersports say they can't get the fly wheel that I need and that I would have to buy a whole new motor with electric start. If not I'll just junk the $400 tillotson and buy a predator. They don't explain this during time purchase, or have explanations on their web site that the motor flywheels on certain motors do not have magnets to run a head light. Looks as though I'll have to spend another $1200 just to have a head light.
Now with clearancing the crank, you removed a fair bit of material. How is the balance? Does it vibrate more? It looked like the exhaust was shaking like crazy at higher RPM on the dyno… but I realize that also may have been due to the dyno.
Yeah, this is fkg cool stuff! I used to love building v-8 engines, but i have to say, this is just as enjoyable just on a smaller scale. I wonder if it would be possible to come up with some videos of some epic fails? Like showing just how bad a factory flywheel explodes on the dyno? It would definitely make someone think twice before taking the governor off a stock motor! Yeah, that probably won't happen but i had to ask! Also the big block motors are going to really get my attention because i want to put together a bike with one, albeit stock, just for the torque to climb just about anything! I don't need to go fast anymore, i just want to be able to to get to those far away hunting spots!
Would like to see a Paul’s kart cam on stronger springs with stock carb…. A lot of people watching are go kart racers an this gives us an idea of what hp our motors might be putting out…. But a lot of them have to run drilled stock carb style stuff.
OK I like all that now let's see one that's built like that and port match everything intake an exhaust wise an see what we get see if it helps throttle response an bottom end torque wise and be another series part to do too
Awesome series. This is exactly the type of content I have been looking for. Keep up the good work. I'll be impatiently waiting for the next video.
Man I literally spent hours upon hours throughout November/December doing research and building a Predator 212 for a big minibike race. 99% of info about these motors on the internet is subjective or a secret due to Kart racing teams running these motors competitively. Thanks for making these videos and keep up the good work!
Because nobody actually knows what they're doing lol. Plus every track is different, no combination of parts ever works for every track.
Waiting for the next episode of this series is like waiting for the next episode of the Mandalorian. Very exciting.
Lol, so true!!
that series is so overrated. whats wrong with you people?
This is the way
@@shootermcgavin2819 it's cool people enjoy it and television is rather lackluster of late so a good show is like cold water in the desert
Can't wait to see what the big blocks will make powerwise
Don't get me wrong, I love the content and the videos.Type of videos all of us want. I appreciate the effort. I just don't understand the high rpm pulls so quickly on break in oil. Normally two oil changes on break in oil are in order to remove assembly lube and tiny metal particles that come with these types of engines when new.
RBG does engine pulls off camera with the break in oil. Break can be as little 15 minutes- top engine builders with diamond hones and proper hone grits. That said, leak down testing/no oil residue inside the exhaust port verifies the rings have seated.
@markyoung9964 I asked that very question, "Was a proper break in done before that high rpm pull? Am I missing something?"
That being said, I would not do full rpm pulls on contaminated break in oil. I race prep Briggs Animal lo206 engines and have championship hardware to show. I have found the engines put out more power and last longer if the proper break in procedure is followed. Mostly decontamination the oil is the biggest deal.
I also have a stage 4 kit on a predator hemi from NR racing with a 280 cam and 2.1 ratio rockers. I do not speak just to speak. I speak from experience.
At this level i dont think you'll see real big gains from the head maybe 0.5-1hp but rockers heck yes! Do just the intake rocker dyno it, then do both, you'll see how little effect that extra lift has on the exhaust side.
Next one please! The combos you can do, this series could last a long time.
This is a great series! Absolutely love it. Really hope the 459 predator gets thrown in the mix. Just started a Yamaha G2 project and am planning on dropping a 459 in it. (It has no engine so for my purposes I figure the 459 is the way to go.) For this year I plan on just running it stock but next winter tear it down and liven it up a little bit. Great series, keep up the fantastic work and have a wonderful day.
Really enjoying these Dyno videos. Maybe a video on comparing to fact same mods on a 196 vs 212? Just to see the differences in power bands
Let's go love these comparison dyno vids
Just a few thoughts, are there cooling upgrades for these engines? With hp, comes heat. I see the new flywheel appears to have a slightly different fin design but is that enough? How long would one expect the lifespan to be without some sort of cooling upgrade?
Which could be a neat addition to the series, upgrading the oiling system and adding cooling to it with external oil cooling to see how it effects overall engine temps.
Have you considered non traditional engine choices for up coming builds? I know they can be harder to find bolt on parts for, but it would be very interesting to see. For instance I have a Rhino 450. They're slow but reliable, and I'll likely replace it with a maverick eventually. But without aftermarket support for real hp gains it would be very interesting to see how much improvement can be made from engines without thst support. Things like playing with different size carbs, porting and polishing, intake and exhaust upgrades. Mabey even a couple homemade turbo set ups. Things that can be done with any engine that just doesn't have the benefit of a huge following to bring parts and experience to the table.
Also, this show is getting a very much too scripted vibe. Similar to the old spike tv shows. We all know damn well those e-clips turn into ballistic missles just by looking at them wrong. I don't know where you got those low tension stunt clips from, but it really takes away from the realism.
Great content! Excited for more
You forgot to put a assembly Lube on the rod bearing
Love the series but please tell us what fuel you are using. Non ethanol? 87?91?93?100?
yes, I too would like to know what fuel you are using. Inceased compression with the thinner head gasket need higher octane?
Love the series very interesting
could you manufacture a reverse trike with a 4 cylinder engine
RB, why does it matter which way the arrow on the piston is oriented to the rod? Is the pin offset?
I want to see a dyno with 117 lsa cam.
Turbo time 😁
Very soon sir very soon
Crank journal spec is 1.180 + or- .0005 which is 1/2 a thousand not +or- 5 thousand
Supercharged 212
Excellent !!!
What kind of difference does 1.2 rockets make on a stick can engine, any more torque?
I need the engine table??
Where do I get a piston ring compressor like the one in the video?
see if the myth is right, that a supercharger does better on a single piston engine than a turbo?
Did you lube the bottom bearing when installing.
I replayed that scene and the second time I saw red oil saturating the crank journal
I heard you say 5 thousandths but I hope mean 5 ten thousands or some people would call it 1/2 thousands
would be these the same steps for a non hemi?
Are you using red rubber grease on the piston?
Still BS testing up to this point, since this is the first time AFR where attempted to hold to around 13. Also, with engine being able to rev'd to 6K, first time that billet flywheel with advance should be bought in to play. Simply, at this point, what is the difference in HP between a total stock motor at 13AFR reving to 4K, verses motor to this point now its AFR at 13, but rev'g more RPMS to wear it out faster with the cost of extra parts.
You might get a few more horse power if you stick a RBG sticker or two on that engine just saying.
I'm going to put a RBG on my forehead and run up the stairs-without the sticker I passed out. I'll keep you updated
Would love to see a best bang for the buck test..thinner gasket, diy head work, cheap clone carb etc. How a broke kid would build it. See how that stacks up to the $$$$ build
I'M LOVING THESE DYNO VIDEOS! Please, keep them coming! I can't wait until you do the same thing with the Predator 670.
As you show its not just peak numbers but area under the curve that improves
It would be great to see side by side graphs or overlays
Peak hp does not tell the whole story
Great video mate!
I plan on doing a lot more with this series over the next few months. We will be doing graph comparisons to show where you gain the power and all the info. Thanks for watching!
That's true but he does show the Dyno chart and I paused the video to see the gains at lower rpms and to see when the most HP started to ramp in but I'm sure that he is going to be doing alot more with these Dyno videos
@@lawrencecoleman7850 That's actually what a dyno is for, too many people forget that it's a tuning tool and there's more to those fancy numbers they care so much about.
I love that Greg shows the graphs and all for us that's where you see if your work did what you were looking for.
@@NubsWithGuns yes true I like how he does it also
Is there any way you could dyno a 212 ghost, with the ghost "performance kit", compare the straight intake vs the 90 degree, and do a stock ghost carb vs mikuni, i think that would be interesting
So the fake mikuni carb would have had it at 15+hp zz... I can't wait to see everything you have in store! I complained about you in the past in the comments section and I was wrong. You kick ass and I appreciate you.
I ordered the stage 2 kit that comes with all these parts from your affiliated links but I just noticed they come with 22lbs springs and you say 26lbs …. Do I need to reorder need 26lbs springs…….. and lastly do you think my 30series torque converter will be able to take it?
The small valve 14cc head is a popular budget option....giving up valve size vs compression. You could compare a ported 14cc to a ported stock valve on the same engine and I believe same head gasket.
I have a huge respect for all you RUclips builders/makers out there you literally produce and market Hollywood quality content weekly without aides or other actors just you some friends and your garage all the while working your daily jobs and raising a family the majority of you.. it's pretty nuts honestly....you sir are an over achiever and have no gripe about a small issue with filming issues. Keep up the phenomenal job
This has been a great series! Building up a new engine to try and set a new landspeed record, this has been helpful 🤘🏻
There is a single cylinder land speed motorcycle record at like 140mph I believe
@@chevyon37s Mine was for a radio flyer wagon haha
Can't wait to build my 1st Mega Moto 212 (just bought last week), your videos are fantastic. Entertaining and educational!
Normally great videos! On these Dyno Test, You know all the Engine DATA, but most People don't it would be nice to have all the Engine Data, CC, CAM Spec, Valve Spring lbs, Valve Sizes used, Carb Size, Type of Air Filter used, Type of Exhaust used. A list of hp made at different rpm, other than just Max hp@rpm. These Honda/Clone Engines are being used on more Products every day. Go Carts, Off Road Karts, Snowmobiles, Snow Gliders, Air Boats, Mini Bikes, Hover Craft, Mud Boats, Part 103 Ultralight Airplanes, PPC, Kit Planes, Hover Craft, etc. Like for Airplane use they would be limited to Max 5500rpm for Durability and that's just for Takeoff 2-3min and then Power Reduced to 75% to 90% depending on Speed or GPH use. Part 103 Ultralights can only carry 5 Gallons. Part 103 and most Small Kitplanes use 26hp to 40hp Engines. The Lazair Ultralight first used (2) 5.5hp Chainsaw Engines then upgraded to used (2) Rotax 185 2 Strokes at 9.4hp@5000rpm each, then upgraded to (2) Solo 210 Engines 15hp each. All Planes have a Max Takeoff Weight (MTOW). A Good Power to Weight Ratio is 1kw for 10 kg to Fly Well. The Lazairs MTOW is 450 lbs = 204.1166 kg / 10 kg = 20.41166 kw needed to Fly Well = 27.37249 hp / 2 = 13.686 hp or 13.7hp needed for each Engine. Which these Honda/Clone 200/212 engines can make that hp@5000rpm. ruclips.net/video/XOQOW2Gqs7Q/видео.html
In your experience what causes the drop or wave in power about about 6500? I would figure valve float, but I don't know anything about these engines. In a multi cylinder automotive engine, thats pretty much what it looks like when you loose valve stability.
That Ams Oil is awesome stuff. I swear I get an extra 200 rpm with it in my 2 stroke snowmobile. The exhaust pipes get a little sticky and messy but it's worth it.
l love this series. if you can hit the 20 to 30 hp mark off pump gas ill order the parts for that build. I want a 4 stroke for my ultra light.
That was good, but one thing I would like to have seen was the graph of the last one with the same carb against this run to see the changes in where the HP is with the different Camshafts. Also when you do the head, compare the two stock heads, against two ported heads (maybe just use a thick gasket to compensate for the lack of dish in the piston for the original style head)
How do you get ur beard so straight lol. great video, love the dyno content, keep it up :)
Gyro The hair dye does that, if he didn't dye it, he'd have to change his screen name to be old gray beard.
@@WOMANIZERJERRY I think he adds the Dominator oil (it's red) to his conditioner
I'm also loving these dyno vids. Can't wait to see the V-Twin mods and results.
You should check out David Vizard he explains rocker ratios and how they don't always do what they're supposed to each one will lift the valve off the seat at a different speed very good information to learn
I'm iffy on the magnetic oil dipstick since the one I bought off Amazon and the magnetic came out of it and stuck to the connecting rod of my generator, got lucky that it didn't destroy anything
Bought it off Amazon what did you expect
Just picked up a 212, thought I was going to leave it stock until I found your channel. You earned a new sub here, thanks for spending my money red beard.
I don't even mess with small engines but as a drag racer and car person I love watching parts comparisons and dyno test.
Do you use hair straighteners to make your beard so perfectly straight? Do a beard care video hahaha
Another great video!
The dyno don't lie, Playa!
These dyno videos are great for seeing gains. Love them
You didn't add assembly lube on the rod bearings??
Yes I did. If you look you can see it dripping out after installing the rod cap.
Can't wait to see what some port work does to compliment the cam. It's very cool to see the air/fuel being shown in these last couple videos. You should get into that a bit more, showing jet changes and what not is required with each change to keep it in line. Very cool stuff!
It might be possible to remove the HP dip around 7000 RPM, by lengthening or shortening the intake tube between the carb and the head. It would be interesting to see how that will affect the HP output curve, and should be very easy and cheap to do. Since the cam was changed you changed the intake duration and resonance, and it normally means you also nee to change intake length to match the cam.
I'd like to see different intake lengths tested, there has to be a different as the math suggests a different power band
We have that video planned sir! Thanks for watching.
Im sorry but you should try a big filter with velocity stack! That little filter has to be hurting a little power! Love the series
Awesome! Is this cam similar to “the racer” cam on Go Power Sports?
26# or 36#? See link in description
I was really curious about the lubrication of a lot of these predator motors and Honda engines at general oil thrower at the bottom of the connecting rod I made a clear side cover ran the motor and was surprised to see that the lubricant only flung around the gears the teeth themselves and would drip down on the connecting rod bearing and other parts after you shut it off So I took a file and made a very small flat portion on the oil thrower towards the front of the motor made a nightinday difference with the way the oil splashed around
I hope you dyno test a 301 hemi Predator. I've had a lot of naysayers over the years tell me they're junk and not worth building. My Coleman CT200U-EX was a completely different bike going from a "stage 2" small block to a basically stock 301 with only a header & governor delete.
U should do an episode where you put timing to the moter and see the inprovements
The cam we are using is for the timing the billet flywheel has. We do have another cam to use later where we do have to adjust timing.
According to GPS, I should be pushing 15hp lol. So you're trying to tell me I'm only pushing around 11hp? Lol nah, no way. Doesn't feel like 11hp, feels more than that.
I have all this on my stand up scooter. If you want to check it out, it's on my channel if you're interested. It's 1 of a kind 😁 I only plan to make it more powerful.
Dam! Kind of disappointed lol. This whole time I thought I was pushing 15hp when in reality it's probably more like 12hp with the clone Kuni. Why on earth would GPS lie about their #s like that? They must have cheated their dyno #s just for sales. 😠.
RB, I was thinking, I'd rather have a cam with that same duration, but a lot less LOBE lift. I could regain the lost VALVE lift with 1.2 rockers, and not have to grind on the crank counterweight.
Dear Red Beard,
Thank you for always encouraging and entertaining me when I’m bored. Thank you for uploading some of the best content and always going out of this world explaining stuff to us. And most of all thank you for being on RUclips. This channel is highly underrated if you know what I mean. God Bless.
Sincerely, Jalen Knight
Something i missed in these 4 episodes.. did you change the Piston??? because i noticed it was flat. is that stock???
It's also odd that you have a cast valve cover when HF shows stamped valve covers on the predator 212
Can anybody tell me if a predator 212 double magnet flywheel for a set of dual charging coils will fit and work on a tillotson 212? Gopowersports say they can't get the fly wheel that I need and that I would have to buy a whole new motor with electric start. If not I'll just junk the $400 tillotson and buy a predator. They don't explain this during time purchase, or have explanations on their web site that the motor flywheels on certain motors do not have magnets to run a head light. Looks as though I'll have to spend another $1200 just to have a head light.
I’m building a big valve big cam 356 predator hemi with a non hemi head 212 with 1.2 ratio rockers I just can’t find the right pushrods
You are getting Valve float above 6600 rpm try stronger valve springs.
Now with clearancing the crank, you removed a fair bit of material. How is the balance? Does it vibrate more? It looked like the exhaust was shaking like crazy at higher RPM on the dyno… but I realize that also may have been due to the dyno.
Loving all the dyno vids of you testing parts. Thanks for doing these.
😎👍👍
Yeah, this is fkg cool stuff! I used to love building v-8 engines, but i have to say, this is just as enjoyable just on a smaller scale. I wonder if it would be possible to come up with some videos of some epic fails? Like showing just how bad a factory flywheel explodes on the dyno? It would definitely make someone think twice before taking the governor off a stock motor! Yeah, that probably won't happen but i had to ask! Also the big block motors are going to really get my attention because i want to put together a bike with one, albeit stock, just for the torque to climb just about anything! I don't need to go fast anymore, i just want to be able to to get to those far away hunting spots!
So I'm assuming the carb you're using for the dyno this time is your favorite from last time, the TM24 flat slide carb?
Any excessive vibrations ? Mine shakes more than my old Norton motor . 😫...Did you have to rebalance the crankshaft ?
On the edge of my seat waiting for the next Video. ROAD TO HORSEPOWER LETS GO! 🏎💨
Would like to see a Paul’s kart cam on stronger springs with stock carb…. A lot of people watching are go kart racers an this gives us an idea of what hp our motors might be putting out…. But a lot of them have to run drilled stock carb style stuff.
i got a 356 cam in a 212...i cannot find a carb that works .....really enjoying the dyno runs
Looking 4 hp and torque suitable for micro light aircraft 670 / 990 cc that is outside of your normal.
Guessing you’re already planning on it but I’d like to see what an EFI system will do, power wise, compared to a carb. Love this series!
Id like to get a billet steel rod, with a pressurized oil system, forged piston, with oil squirter, and oil cooler, it should spin 10k rpm
Use normal Motor oil when installing the pistons not Assembly lube, assembly lube is to thick and can glaze the rings and cylinder wall
What if the engine is idling fine and revs up but no forward or reverse.. what could be the problem? Brakes aren't seized either
Awesome video, great to see the AF ratio on the graph! Keep up the great content.
I love the series but when you said 80% of this years videos will be this type I said what about Lonnie?
2000rpm range of 11.25ft/lb+ of torque is great!
Great information. Will you be doing a DuroMax 440?
Does your dyno software allow you to overlay dyno runs? It is much easier to see the changes and where they happen in the rev range.
OK I like all that now let's see one that's built like that and port match everything intake an exhaust wise an see what we get see if it helps throttle response an bottom end torque wise and be another series part to do too
I wish that forged steel connecting rods were an option.
Why not dyno the head gasket and the cam separately?
Ported head and ratio rockers next!
What are the valve sizes in this? .265 lift might be velocity choke at the seat.
Where's the link for the magnetized dip stick??
You should really degree that cam to shift that powerband over some
How about a link for the dipstick
Why didn't you lube the rod bearing,or did I miss something?