$320 Linear Rail 3D Printer - Sapphire Pro REVIEW (Two Trees)
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- Опубликовано: 25 окт 2019
- The Two Trees Sapphire Pro is a CoreXY 3D printer with Linear Guide Rails that you can currently get for $320! I tested this compelling package to tell you if it's worth your money or if you should stay away from it. Lets find out more!
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DISCLAIMER: This 3D printer was provided to me for free as a review unit. No money has exchanged hands, all thoughts are my own. 
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You just gave them some incredibly professional engineering recommendations for the cost of a single unit.
to add insult to injury..without any guarantees they will take the recommendations on board and fix their machine.
It's not a bad thing per-se though, if they take the advice and keep the price this low, it might make more people happy
That is how they do it lol They copy other peoples work and expect other people to come up with Fix's for their oversight lol
@@patprop74 Is that a bad thing though? Everyone gets something: Stefan gets to make a video and have the printer, we get to see it, the company gets awesome customer feedback and exposure and we get cheaper printers as a result.
Well i hope they can support stefan by mention his YT channel at their site and free parts for him? Or maybe something else to support him.
I have a Sapphire Pro. I had no issues with missing parts, but the build instructions are still terrible. The top plate was perfectly straight and my linear-rails-screws have the correct length.
I do agree that it's a bit of a tinkering project, but like that it is a really fun printer.
My recommendations for improving (and quieten) the printer:
- Additional TMC2208's for Z and Extruder
- Papst 60mm fan for the power supply
- Cut out the fan grill from the power supply. Don't worry, it is completely enclosed in the unit. (This makes a ridiculously big noise difference...)
- Replace the 1 start leadscrew with a 4 start one, like on the ender 3. Seems to have fixed the banding for me. (Remember to divide the Z steps by 4)
- Replace the 40mm fans inside the enclosure with whatever quiet fans you like. (e.g. Papst, Noctua)
- Oh and remember to step down the fan voltages because 24V don't always exist. (If you need a voltage converter, search for "Mini360 Buck Converter" on aliexpress)
For putting an Open Source Marlin on this printer, the channel "the electronic telescope" on RUclips did the legwork. "Design Prototype Test" made a playlist with the relevant videos: ruclips.net/p/PLtVk4dZInT83cYG5nVr50O2hH3GVSkKse
I have had some limited success with it, but development will go on.
Have fun!
What do you mean replacing one lead screw with four ones ? I don't get it, can you elaborate ?
Considering my current printer is a self-upgrading project This would absolutely be my kind of machine...
Anycubic 4max pro. I paid $350 from anycubic on eBay. Pulled it out of the box, leveled it, hit print.
That's it. Fully enclosed, quiet, decent build volume, nice touchscreen and controls. Out of ~100 prints, had 2 failures, and it was just because of shitty, brittle PLA. The filament sensor caught it though, which was nice.
No idea why it's not the most popular machine around
Looks like an interesting printer. Sad that there are so many quality control issues.
True, and stefan is doin great to solve the probs. Maybe the manufacturer should listen to his review.
@@tantamid6572 Im an owner of one and they fixed all the issues Stefan mentioned.
1. All screws are correct length.
2. No missing parts (all included in separate string bags with labels).
3. No z axis wobble visible at prints.
4. There is no need to straighten anything as nothing is bent.
5. Im not sure what he meant by "complicated cables and plugs" as if you are able to not cut your arm of while doing yourself a sandwitch you should be able to also do this :D
@@sob515 I guess they should send a proper printer then. Isn't that obvious?
There is a company which aproaches a well respected youtuber to review the printer, they should, at list, send a printer that comes out of the production line, not the one that failed on every aspect and goes for reconstruction.
@@sob515 should we believe you now? :-P
@@sob515 When and where did you buy the "fixed" version? I'm looking at the page on Gearbest and it looks like they are listing things as "fixed" and "new version," How could it have been iterated so fast when this video was uploaded today?
Thank you for including my Joker in your review! Keep up the good work!
Thank you for the plug.
Oh man, I remember building my first printer from scratch. All the problems you had and many more. Still, if you're looking to seriously get into the hobby and are not put off by the things in this video, building one from scratch is a fun option. I know almost everything about that printer - what it does, why it does it, and why it does it in the wrong way 😂
Also, it prints parts as perfect as it gets on reprap fdm machines. Five years after I stated building it, but hey! And it didn't even cost me all of my sanity, only most of it!
You were very generous to release the video after having to do such much work to get the machine into a useable state. Nicely done!
How do they send a product in such a condition for review??? It makes zero sense.
Shows they didn't hand pick a unit for review like many others
@@pen25 that's... Kinda cool of their part
@@lapidations it's how all should and why I rarely take reviews about fit and finish with a free printer with a grain of salt.
@@lapidations could also be that they picked the best they could and it was just shit.
@@ArkAngelHFB lol
The trick with the PID auto tune is to bring it up to say, 190C. Let it stabilize as much as it can and only then start your autotune with say a target of 200C. This way you prevent the massive overshoot.
Very good review! I like your engineering insight. This will definitely help everyone who is looking into or are a part of the 3D printing hobby.
This doesn’t seem like a beginner machine - but can be a beast with some tinkering.
Again awesome video Stefan!
For z-banding: did you check the steps per mm vs the screw pitch and the slicer profile? Some models do better with absurdly specific layer heights, like the monoprice select mini.
got it for +- 2 years now. i couldn't stand the standard moving bed printers and wanted something faster, so i got this one. it's reliable and very good printer. would 100% recommend it even to noobs who have some technical understanding. i still remember how often i had to level the bed on my old CTC printer. on this one i just check from time to time, but i rarely have to re-adjust it. the strange autolevel sensor didn't work but since the bed is so sturdy, it doesn't really matter. very happy with this purchase and it's a true and nowadays very cheap workhorse. i changed NOTHING, no new hotend, not even a new nozzle and it's still printing 95% perfect for my technical parts. nowadays, it costs 230€ WITH ENCLOSURE from their website which is a HUGE value compared to ender and thelike. i will definitely buy another one if this one goes hops. greets from berlin ;) settings tip: 225° for PLA with 150mm/s is good for technical parts. for PETG go with 265° and 100mm/s. except for outer walls, which are 50% of the speed. for good-looking parts go 75% of these speeds. heatbed i have magnetic one so i added 10° -> 70° for PLA, 80° for PETG. if you are in for quick prototyping, go up to 255° and 250mm/s with cheap PLA (only for larger parts!). cooling fans on 100% . oh and give a little of sewing-machine oil on all bearings and rail from time to time. it is a long lasting printer for that cheap price.
The Ender 4 is very similar to this printer with the z banding Issue. I noticed the bed vibrates on the outer edge away from the linear rods. A few people in the facebook group have upgraded the bed to dual with linear rails on both sides. This has cleaned up the z banding.
Great review! My first printer was a $350 xyz DaVinci. The reviews I looked at before I purchased it where, just flash the firmware with Marlin and it is a usable printer after that. After 2 years I had completely replaced just about every component on the machine. I would replace something and then get 1-3 prints out of it before it would brake or print quality would drop off. I learned how to build/trouble shoot a printer from that machine. I also learned that I wanted to print and not fix a machine all the time. I scraped the printer and bought a Prusa I3, and after 2 years I have only worked on it a few times, most of that is due to the mmu2.
the ender 5 is actually not a corexy
What first 3d printer with core my you recommend?
@@Kaiikeda ender 3 pro
@@انا_ابراهيم_البناوي That's not CoreXY either
@@Kaiikeda Two Trees Sapphire Pro
@@richardlighthouse5328 Classic..
I think people must be make sure about one thing. Stephan is amazingly experienced and made so many thinkering about 3d printers. So when he says about think this as a project, believe me you really need to experienced more than you think. I bought Bluer model from two trees and it took at least a year to make that printer a good one. Two trees printers are lack of quality but they have so many parts to be salvaged for that cost I think.
Just watching Vlad’s build of this printer and it looks like they must have gotten some feedback because his is almost a different machine. Based on what he received, I’m very interested in this machine now.
As always, excellent video Stefan, too bad they sent you an alpha version of the machine.
Care to link the video?
Sure, here it is: ruclips.net/video/wUTkn71ihho/видео.html
I can’t watch Vlad’s videos, he drives me crazy with his “this looks like a box and this looks like a kit” yes Vlad it looks like it’s on a table and it looks like you still have that plant on the table and it looks like goodbye Vlad.
Lee Kibbler Lol, yeah, I usually can’t handle them either, but RUclips suggested it right after Stefan’s video and I needed to see more of the printer to see if it was still a dumpster fire.
I stopped watching Vlad after the disaster of a Whambam review he did.
wow, I was really amazed by your close up print examples shots, it's probably not a big deal to make, but definately something you wish to have in every good review! Keep it up!
I wonder if a flexible coupler on the Z would help with banding. Stefan didn't mention if the other coupler he tested was a flexible type. I have good luck with the clamping spring/coil type as opposed to the set screw coil type. Haven't had great success with the ones with the rubber spider either.
If the coupler holes were not concentric then that would cause z-banding. The top lead screw would "orbit" around the stepper motor shaft, pulling the Z platform around in a circle as Z changes.
I'm now feeling lucky that I did NOT get it... the specs looked sooo nice though...
I like the honest review and how you went about some fixes. Thanks
I like the parts they used and think that for certain people this is a fine buy. Of course that's not a beginner but to build up a machine for a special use I'd grab it fast. The linear rail that the extruder is on seems like excessive mass for the job it has to do, I'd change that out for CF rods and IGUS bearings and your suggestion for getting rid of the springy coupler is a good one.
It is always a pain when parts are damaged or not the right size.
But it is something I'm use to as I tend to buy used or cheeper with the knowledge that I have to do work to save money. Basically, I'm trading time for money.
I have one since late September, I had some QC problems too, notably loose screws and the Y motor cable inverted, but otherwise this is a good printer. With the optional wifi chip you can monitor the print from Cura. I believe that if TwotTrees resolve their QC problem they have a big potential to deliver great and cheap 3D printers !
i got one yesterday from amazon prime with free shipping, it was very easy to put together took 45 minutes had none of the problems you had, they should pay you for your recommendations I love it enclosing it will be very simple because the stepper motors are down below not exposed a bit of insulation some tempered glass it should be golden I got the standard instead of the pro version because the pro version the stepper motors are exposed for $320 some upgrades I’m very happy. thanks for your incredible reviews love your channel
XY with linear rails? oooh. Massive hassle? Pass.
Corexy used to always be done with Rails to cut cost and complexity when DIY makers made their own printers, nonetheless, the correct way to do it, is to take a page from Ultimakers playbook and use smooth rods and linear bearings
Thanks Stephen. Will seriously consider this model. The z wobble is from the upper and lower plates. It needs a counterweight... Or dramatically stiffer frame.
I just put one of these together, and it looks like Two Trees has sorted out most of these issues. The manual is decent, and I did not have any of the frame or PID issues. Took me about 45 minutes to put together and start printing. Prints really nice, and I don't have z banding. My biggest beefs are the extruder and fan noise you described, and the underpowered part cooling fans.
14:02 They got the corexy configuration totally wrong, belts directly connected to the gantry need to run parallel to the direction of movement. You can see the belts here aren't in line with the linear rails towards the motor and towards the front of the frame. This means the belt geometry (and the belt tension) changes as the gantry moves forward and backward, and the parts that come out of it will reflect this dimensional inaccuracy.
This. It's a shame people don't know much about CoreXY and miss stuff like this.
AFAIK the Ender 5 is not actually a coreXY as it uses a single motor for the X and a single motor for Y, one motor doesnt influence the others axis as with a true coreXY
Agree with you
I believe Ender 5 is what’s usually referred to as a Cartesian H-bot design.
I see they have a Sapphire Plus printer and looks like they have taken you engineering advice completely as far as I can see. It looks like a real winner. Thank you for your expertise. I found the Plus for $306.00
One of the best in 3d community .Great Job Stefan
Hi Stefan, I purchased the earlier version of the Two Trees Sapphire S utilizing the Lerdge X board from banggood($450-Acrylic enclosure included). I chose it for exactly the reason you stated about the linear rails aswell as the CoreXY and Z travel systems. I can't really comment on the out of box functionality since mine was never assembled as originally intended. Regardless, the other reason I chose it was because the X and Y holes in the floor provide a perfect placement for a triple motor Z-axis which, helps stabilize the print surface from the originally unsupported overhanging weight of the heavy printbed base plate. I have since modeled a majority of the printer in Sworks and made some major modifications (some necessary some not) with the expectations of having a reliably fast little 3D printer that rivals some $3k> printers currently on the market. Anyway that is my two cents. Thank you for your time, effort and sincerely informative channel!
IDK if you'll see this, but should help anyone reading this.... Used to build trucks and we use only this, so Pro tip on the split loom>> Don't push the wires into the loom, bundle up your wires at the end and the ending point (hot end here), slide the loom on a bit. Wrap the loom with 2-3 revolutions of tape and then just push in away from you and over the wire at the same time. a run of 1-2 feet will take you 10 seconds and..... NO BLOOD.
Awesome, honest review Stefan! Love your videos!
1)Generally if the hotend temperature overshoots like that, the heater cartridge is not the one you expect to find on 24V system. It is probably the 12V one and is a fire/electrocution hazard.
2)Does the wobbling correspond 1 to 1 to the lead screw? There might be a faulty linear bearing. Try unscrewing it and moving by hand.
1) checked the resistance and it's too high for a 12V cartridge, they probably just aimed for too much power.
2) the period is perfectly 2mm, so I assume it's coming from the lead screw. Though I have cleaned and re-greased the linear bearings as well, since they didn't run perfectly smooth.
Great video. You had me at $300 with linear rail. Seems to be a good value if you want to get a complete kit - bmg clone, rails, (if not bent) a solid frame. Seems like it's just missing auto bed leveling and dual Z to be even more juicy.
My Sapphire Pro was from the second batch shipped out the last week of August and I love it !! Any problems you described were fixed by the time I got mine (except the print area problem).
Stefan said that some people would say there are better printers for cheaper. What would some of those printers be, specifically CoreXY?
Any chance of hearing your thoughts on the changes that Two Trees made with the Sapphire Plus, Mr Hermann? From what I can tell, other than the size increase, they've switched to a dual-Z setup on linear rails (my gut feeling is this will be less stable than rods on both sides, but I've nothing to base that on), added sides to the top plate, gone to 2040 uprights, and what little I've seen of the control board looks like it might be a full suite of 2208 drivers.
Also wondering if you encountered any of the alignment issues I've heard of with the Sapphire. There's modifications to shift the motors and some of the bearings due to the belts not being parallel where they should be, introducing Y-axis issues.
Don't have a Sapphire plus so I can't comment on it's changes and performance.
Appreciate you taking the time to reply.
I'm gonna wait for them to develop a second version of this printer. I'd love to buy that in this price range, but I can't afford a week or more just to set up the machine. I'd be perfect for printing in Nylon and other industry materials though, that's really nice to know there are cheap machines on the market that can be beneficial to professionals.
I'm really interested in this printer ...
dose anyone know if the quality control issues are resolved ?
Nice video btw ... good presentation of the pro's and con's whiteout bashing ...
Did you end up getting one and have they fixed the problems?
I love the design and rails also it's a good price. Hope they work out the problems as i would be a buyer.
Yeah, it looks like we may be on the verge of a bunch of cost-conscious CoreXY designs hitting the market. I'm keeping a close eye on the SecKit "Go" - its slightly more expensive than this one but still very modestly-priced for what you get. The very first batch are only just shipping now, but it has linear rails in all axes and looks very promising - IF the current 1-man operation can scale up production to meet demand!
Z banding on your case is most likely caused by the control of the bed temperature.
If it varies too much, the bed contracts and expands enough to cause z banding.
Lost 1 week debugging this issue on a similar printer.
My upgrades for starting this printer: lerdge-x full kit electronics, hanpose 8401 motors, e3d v6 hotend, better belts, kgt rails. Waiting for lmk12 bearings and rods, looking for aluminium gantry with proper alignment(((
I have been wanting a core XY with linear rails for a while now, I think until these issues are ironed out I am better off building my own.
With the Pro moniker applied to this printer, I would expect to see a better board installed and a tensioning system for the belts.
I am nw going to watch the JustVlad review who I understand has a later version of this printer, I hope things are better!
Another new model to keep an eye on is the SecKit "Go" (or "Mini") - its slightly more expensive than this, but still very modestly priced for what you get. The very first batch are only just shipping now, but it has linear rails in all axes and looks very promising - if the current 1-man operation can scale up production.
I'm wondering if a printer really needs rails though. I have a core-xy (tech-2c hypercube) that uses 8 & 10 mm hardened round stock and linear bearings and there is *no slop in it* . An interesting aspect of the core-xy design is that the belts themselves are in opposite tension and act to remove backlash. Differential tensioning also serves to calibrate the XY plane (to keep it in square). Its a really nice design.
Cheers,
If you're looking for the Pro side things, look up Vorondesign. It's a kit and you have to source all the parts yourself, but the design is free ;) the just went GPL3 so community is going to grow a bit.
@@EngineeringVignettes I too have a hypercube, an evo version. It was my first 3d printer, and it wasnt that bad of a build given no instructions. I love it. now that i know the ins and outs of the printer and how to tune core xy, I am thinking of adding rails for x and y. I honestly think ill gain alittle volume, and rigidity with rails.
As a noob to 3d printing(but not to building things) I would say core xy are for people who want to tinker until they get the results they want. If you want to get going out of the gate, go with standard cartisian printer.
@@noelwade Thanks Noel, I saw a video on this by Teaching Tech and it is a very worthy competitor for my new purchase
That's a good trick to straighten out the frame. I wish I had thought of it.
Great efforts taken for reviewing this printer.
I just picked one up for $180 BNIB. At that price, I'm excited to have a project!
The Z axis problem may be can fix with another silent driver, more steps more accuracy, but i think, two z axis is the solution, like the Seckit SK-GO design
This is a good example of a printer built to reach a price point above all else. (Understandably, that's its main selling point. ) As a pricing strategy, they should sell one that has been tested and qc'd for an extra $100. (serial #s and a video of thing working with a tuned torture test print or something like that.) I'd pay it.
The Z banding is an ancient problem many original ultimakers suffered from. The way to solve it is to decouple the bed from the leadscrew in the XY direction, leaving only the Z, so that the linear rails keep it in place, while the leadscrew just rises/lowers it. Ie. leadscrew nut needs to be loose in XY, which will absorb any wobble. On old ultimakers we used to sand out the mount for the nut so that it could freely wiggle.
what a great review. really appreciate the work you put in to making it work. I truly hope they put these suggestions into action because I will be buying one.
This build experience sounds a *lot* like mine when I was building my Tevo Tarantula - poorly sized hardware and lacking instructions. Hopefully TwoTrees can resolve those issues, but for now I'll be building my own Hypercube Evolution.
Honestly, that was the best review I've seen in a long time! I like the design of the printer, so minimalistic! I hope the manufacturer improves QC (an switches to TMC all around). Fans are easy enough to replace after all.
In my humble opinion, it's a big printer with a small print volume
Oh this seams like a love hate relationship.
Ya like my mmu2 😠
@@sniperpronerfmods9811 if you need something cheap and works out of the box the U30 does it.
@@ifell3 i meant the prusa multi martial 2, its so damn finicky that I hate it, but the 3 times it worked it was like magic, also the u30 looks like a cool cheap printer
what's to love? You can easily find printers with similar print quality for less money that works perfectly straight out of the box.
you are not the only one with an experience like this...
Great review Stephan. The final prints look amazing.
Wow Stefan, you did alot of work for this company, i hope you truly wanted to do it and got justly rewarded. Felt abit unfair of them dumping a premature model to learn from you even if free.
I gave up on my CoreXY in the end after 6 months of continual tinkering because of similiar issues with yours. Z-wobbling didn't go away no matter what I do, reinforcing everywhere. At the end of the day, i sold the coreXY and went back to the ol reliable Cartesian.
I'm not sure if it's an issue with CoreXY being more sensitive to calibrate or something else. I did suspect the longer belts, non dedicated XY motors, heavier XY load may all add up.
I run 3 Creality-CR10S4 for full time production. No monitoring required almost right out of the box.
dude you put in so much effort to get that going. i would never have gone to that much trouble.
Looks like a typical user experience for the price... this is typical in that the user *has* to tweak the printer to improve it's performance and the cost is really for a starter kit of parts. Based on that I don't think anyone can really complain about it; this is the reality of cheap chinese printers. Definitely not a starter printer.
FYI - I'm still using my home-made core-xy (tech-2c design) and it works really nicely with a low mas hotend assembly.
It's good to see you channel growing Stefan, I remember back when you were testing filaments and asking for help in buying test stock. It's nice you see you doing collabs with Thomas as well.
Cheers,
I think they made a sapphire PLUS 1.1v which might or might not fix some of the issues. maybe you could look into it and review it?
for price i think it's pretty solid, i would probably replace that aluminum plate on top with some 2020 extrusion just to get a straighter surface for the linear rails and to have a place to mount accessories.
Thanks ! For the newbies these issues totally a deal breaker
A bit late to the part but the z banding is most definitely from the cantelevered bed assembly, but also the printer itself is amazing and the fact that it has a robin is great because of how much you can change that with marlin in vscode
That Z wobble is probably due to the cantilever bed combined with not so rigid linear rod/linear bearing combo. The slightest binding will make the bed oscillate (sometimes not enough to be seen by eye). The fact that it is so regular could be the linear bearing having not-so-round balls, which could bind on some parts of it's travel, especially when under load. Had the same problem at some point on a custom made printer, built with cheap bearings. Combined with not so well printed parts, I could never get rid of the problem. Ended up scrapping the whole thing. For the Sapphire, maybe try changing the linear bearings of the bed for test sake
The company should hire you for US technical support and to assist in design and debugging. A review is not complete until the service is also rated. Thumbs up for content and pro-quality production.
I'm glad to see that corexys are approaching the prices of cartesean printers!
In my experience with Chinese linear rails, they need to be thoroughly cleaned before using as they, almost all, have some kind of manufacturing grit in them.
My old folgertech ft5 had alot of burs in the rails too. A good cleaning fixed the squeeching noises and inconsistant moves.
At some time in the future would you consider doing a review of the Sapphire Plus V1.1?
The Z-wobble is due to the round linear bearings. These have a massive play in them unless they used more expensive ones with higher grade bearings.
Upgrading with a DyzeEnd Pro and a DyzeXtruder Pro will double the price of the printer but still is a very cheap way to start printing those high tech materials.
use PId for hotbed. I had this defect on a delta printer where it is definitely not connected to the screw
I'm just dumbfounded when companies send off samples for review without making sure the review pieces aren't operating at 100%.
Who is the lady, that you are using as an account photo?
I for one am thankful to companies that don't do review units. I want the full story. Not some cherry picked and tuned product. The review should match the customer experience.
To me cherry picked and tuned products are a sign the company does not trust their own product.
If you spend that much money to upgrade it pretty soon as a project, you might also look into diy printers.
Esp if you have the need for non standard sizes(for example for it will be a 300 by 600 printer as that gives me the ability to print custom keyboards in a single piece)
I completely agree with the 'project' title
I had planned on eventually getting one of these ,not a chance now.
heh, I had a printer with a really difficult to diagnose Z banding issue, until it turned out it was the PID calibration on the hot-end or heated bed, that was causing it. Not sure which because I ran both calibrations together, and it was fixed after that. Honestly I think it was the heated bed's PID that caused it.
Nice review! I'm glad you made it, I just got this as my first printer and could figure out why I was having layer shift. Thank you!
in another review I've heard the (bad) SD card was the reason
I had the same Z-banding problems back than with my CTC bizer when I upgraded to TMC2100 stepper drivers for X and Y but the original Allegro A4982 for Z. I have absolutly no idea why that happend, but it was gone when I swapped the Allegro for a TMC driver. e
could the z-banding issues be due to the cantilever design of the bed. I could imagine it bouncing
yeah, it looks flexible as heck.
My thought exactly. Their stable triangle is way too shallow, and depends on the rigidity of the build plate.
Pretty cool. But I don't see much in the way of advantage over the half price ender3 that will actually work out of the box.
It is actually around $189 US Dollars right now on Amazon. Tempted to get one and mod the crap out of it.
Very nice video. Interesting to see, what went wrong on your machine. I got a later version (early september) with the rails correctly mounted, the driver voltages set lower and a newer firmware configuration. I had missing t-nuts, no setscrew for the extruder, a lose drive gear in the extruder, wrongly placed endstops, 1 meter bowden tube... not a finished product, nothing for beginners.
Thanks for linking my article.
Fair review, as you said, its no Ultimaker, if your someone that likes to tinker right out of the box, you are almost better off just buying parts and hardware and make your own design lol. That Zebra banding is horrible, I would expect to see this kind of banding from Corse threaded rods, Which leads me to believe it has more to do with the bed's cantilever design, Perhaps adding a third or fourth smooth rod, to the front corners might help it along.
Nice cheap training base before building a Voron ;)
Change your stepper drivers. The wobble and seams will disappeared. Also I would say if I go xyz I would choose a direct extruder . Otherwise better get a delta.
Not a fan of the 4 to 5 inches between the x-carriage mount and the tip of the hot-end. But it seems rigid enough.
About the Z Banding, do you know if your power supply fan is shutting on or off? I had this exact issue on my Rostock V3 and sometimes it was intermittent, come to find out the Meanwell power supply that it came with has built in automatic cooling control so whenever the fan turned on and off, you can slightly see the z-banding occur. I further isolated the issue by putting a separate cooling fan and verified the banding went away because the power supply fan never needed to switch on.
its awesome 3d printer for resonable price that only need few upgrades to be the best printer at this price.
Z wooble exist because screws in this size are produced in 0.5mm accuracy at 100cm length everywhere so if your z axis isnt stiff enought you will see z wooble in 90% cases,the same goes with z axic coupler,changing it to cnc one (not spring one) or for engine with integrated screew can solve the problem :)
Ender 5 isn't core xy . It is a Cartesian as it uses one motor for each axis . But in a core xy machine when one motor is used to axis move and it uses compinations of two motor to move x y . That's why it is called core xy .
Will be interesting to see if they are still around in a year.
Thank you for video. I don't understand about 50 % of your speach but always watch your tests and theory about 3d printing.
Russians watch you too. And learning english ))
Would you still recommend this in late 2020?
Stefan you do an amazing job on these videos
Replace the power supply to fix that banding issue, if it's a 12v system use a standard high amp atx PC psu.
These medium-sized printer companies like creality and tevo and now two trees are making a big difference in the global community of 3d printers. although not perfect, they are a good value- something these crafters respond to. the struggle to get them working is a good one, providing valuable insights to the reality of physics and engineering. at these price points...it would be a mistake to ridicule them for their efforts.
Yes, that does print nicely after sorting it out.
In some shots it looks like the xy belts aren’t parallel to the axis rails. Maybe that accounts for some printing issues, if it’s really so.
So they use 2 ball bearing spindles to carry the platform and one normal one to drive it ? The precision would probably better if the also replaced the 3rd one