Just in case someone still wants to do this - it doesn't have to be that complex. Here is an alternative method, which I (and many others) have used successfully. 1. Remove the little plastic panel that covers the air filter duct on the right hand side. 2. Loosen the right hand bolts on the right hand section of the fairing (one at the bottom, two along the top of the fairing) 3. Using a ball-ended long hex tool, loosen the top of the 3 bolts on the duct. You have to do this litte-by-little, ensuring that you always have good traction on the bolt before applying force. - note that you do not need to fully remove this bolt. The plastic duct has a cutout in the top bolt-hole so that you can slide it off the bolt once it is loose. Leaving the bolt in place is a good idea, it won't be easy to relocate if removed. 4. Loosen the other two bolts. These need to be removed completely. 5. Remove the duct 6. remove the air filter, and clean or replace. to reassemble, you will probably have to remove the rubber concertina connector from the air filter duct, replace the duct and bolt in place again using a ball-ended hex for the top bolt. Again, do this carefully. Now re-insert the concertina connector - with the right hand part of the fairing loose there is enough wiggle room to get it in place. Tighten up the fairing replace the little plastic cover over the duct done. The reassembly is tricky, it took me probably 20 minutes. The rest is easy. By the way just my observation - I used to use a power tool to do the fairing bolts, I don't do that any more. There is a risk of cross-threading a bolt without being aware of what is happening. I use hand tools now.
I second davids quote, on model 2010 till 2012 you do not have to remove the tank to reach the upper screw of the airfilter. Just the right extended hex does the trick and saves you a serious amount of time.
When I was going back w the top bolt for airbox I accidently x threaded bolt barely . I tried loosening and the threaded metal collett pulled out of plastic . I epoxied it back in w jb weld angling collet a tad bit down so now it's super easy to get to .
Good video. Thanks for posting it. Having said that, you are looking at one of the reasons I sold my multi 1200 s touring. Routine maintenance should not be this involved. This is absolutely absurd just to lift or remove the tank. Air filter can be accessed easier than this as many have said. But just to change plugs or lift the tank for wiring accessories etc.. this is absolutely ridiculous.
I suggest quit using electric impact to start bolts. I end up helicoiling so often on ppl’s bikes. Start it by hand then use if inclined to. Just my 2c.
I don’t have to do all that to get my Air filter out to clean it. Just take the right side cover off as normal exposing the air intake you can do it with an Allen it’s very easy to do without doing all that
What year is this MultiStrada? Is the fuel tank similar on a 2010? I want to drain my fuel tank without removing the tank by disconnecting the fuel line and letting it pour out -- if that's possible. I have old gas in the fuel line that needs to be drained.
Really good video. I dropped my multi and have to replace the front left indicator. Does the tank have to come fully off or can I access the connector by just removing the fuse box and surrounding panel? Thanks.
Unfortunately I haven't had to do that myself so I can't say for sure. I don't think you would need to remove the gas tank to remove the front fairings.
And be sure to let all the remnant gas trikle through the bike when removing the tank. Though a simple shop towel placed beneath it may sound smart, it is not suggested.
Hi. Thanks for the awesome video. Have you had to replace the fuel sensor gauge on a multistrada? Mine is bad and need to replace it. Any videos by chance?
When I removed one of the 3 screws from the air filter, the metal thread part that was supposed to try inside, came out with the screw. Does anyone know if it can be fixed? If so, how? Thank you
@@malcolmferry44 yes, I asked local technician, basically, it's strongly recommended to drain the fuel tank to prevent fuel from uncontrollably leaking out when you unplug the fuel cable.
Hey thanks for the response. I will empty it as best I can, but I believe that the fuel connections on the bottom of the tank are the dry-break type and so the tank should (n theory) not empty out, although there may be some initial dribble. On the other hand, I believe the fittings are plastic and may break as you manipulate them, so it seems to be a good idea to get out as much fuel as you can before removal. That’s my plan. Cheers, Malcolm.
@@malcolmferry44 I had the same question and answered it last night when I removed my FULL tank to do a belt service for the 1st time. Lost about 1 teaspoon of fuel before the dribble stopped. In short - NO, emptying the fuel tank wasn't required, although it would have made jockying it off easier.
I’m feeling your pain, not criticising. I received my bike back after an insurance claim last September (someone reversed into me in a passing place on single track road) and I spent another 2k on cosmetic mods on top of the £5k claim and I hate every blemish that appears on anything, so that scratch on your bike hurt to look at. I hope you get it fixed nicely. I’ve covered my bike in paint protection film, its worth all the hassle. Good luck and thanks again for the video post. 🙂
Just in case someone still wants to do this - it doesn't have to be that complex. Here is an alternative method, which I (and many others) have used successfully.
1. Remove the little plastic panel that covers the air filter duct on the right hand side.
2. Loosen the right hand bolts on the right hand section of the fairing (one at the bottom, two along the top of the fairing)
3. Using a ball-ended long hex tool, loosen the top of the 3 bolts on the duct. You have to do this litte-by-little, ensuring that you always have good traction on the bolt before applying force.
- note that you do not need to fully remove this bolt. The plastic duct has a cutout in the top bolt-hole so that you can slide it off the bolt once it is loose. Leaving the bolt in place is a good idea, it won't be easy to relocate if removed.
4. Loosen the other two bolts. These need to be removed completely.
5. Remove the duct
6. remove the air filter, and clean or replace.
to reassemble, you will probably have to remove the rubber concertina connector from the air filter duct, replace the duct and bolt in place again using a ball-ended hex for the top bolt. Again, do this carefully.
Now re-insert the concertina connector - with the right hand part of the fairing loose there is enough wiggle room to get it in place.
Tighten up the fairing
replace the little plastic cover over the duct
done.
The reassembly is tricky, it took me probably 20 minutes. The rest is easy.
By the way just my observation - I used to use a power tool to do the fairing bolts, I don't do that any more. There is a risk of cross-threading a bolt without being aware of what is happening. I use hand tools now.
Bullshit
I second davids quote, on model 2010 till 2012 you do not have to remove the tank to reach the upper screw of the airfilter. Just the right extended hex does the trick and saves you a serious amount of time.
Sorry, which Hex ?
When I was going back w the top bolt for airbox I accidently x threaded bolt barely . I tried loosening and the threaded metal collett pulled out of plastic . I epoxied it back in w jb weld angling collet a tad bit down so now it's super easy to get to .
Great video. I like how you put the strip on the bottom of the screen showing where you are at and what tools are needed on each step.
Good video. Thanks for posting it. Having said that, you are looking at one of the reasons I sold my multi 1200 s touring. Routine maintenance should not be this involved. This is absolutely absurd just to lift or remove the tank. Air filter can be accessed easier than this as many have said. But just to change plugs or lift the tank for wiring accessories etc.. this is absolutely ridiculous.
Thank you for this video. I'm about to embark in a similar process, change air filter and also the fuel sensor on my Mutistrada.
I suggest quit using electric impact to start bolts. I end up helicoiling so often on ppl’s bikes. Start it by hand then use if inclined to. Just my 2c.
Very well made video. Thank you. Subscribed 👍
..... Very helpful upload - I need to change plugs and filter on my baby. ☑️
I would like to put a KN-cone filter for my Pikes Peak 1200s. An Arrow is at the back.(soon both)🤘
🤘
I don’t have to do all that to get my Air filter out to clean it. Just take the right side cover off as normal exposing the air intake you can do it with an Allen it’s very easy to do without doing all that
What year is this MultiStrada? Is the fuel tank similar on a 2010? I want to drain my fuel tank without removing the tank by disconnecting the fuel line and letting it pour out -- if that's possible. I have old gas in the fuel line that needs to be drained.
thanks for the video, I'll be doing this next week
Good luck! I found the hardest part was being patient with the gas tank and it's easier with less gas in it.
Really good video. I dropped my multi and have to replace the front left indicator. Does the tank have to come fully off or can I access the connector by just removing the fuse box and surrounding panel? Thanks.
Unfortunately I haven't had to do that myself so I can't say for sure. I don't think you would need to remove the gas tank to remove the front fairings.
Hi Is that the socket I see?.... did you install it?.... what brand and model is it?
Thank you
And be sure to let all the remnant gas trikle through the bike when removing the tank. Though a simple shop towel placed beneath it may sound smart, it is not suggested.
Hi. Thanks for the awesome video. Have you had to replace the fuel sensor gauge on a multistrada? Mine is bad and need to replace it. Any videos by chance?
do you have a video on changing spark plugs?
Had to do the same to change my fuel filter. Way too much work to change air and fuel filter...
When I removed one of the 3 screws from the air filter, the metal thread part that was supposed to try inside, came out with the screw. Does anyone know if it can be fixed? If so, how? Thank you
Yes
Great video! I am gonna do it myself, just one concern: Should I drain the fuel tank before removing it?
That’s what I want to know too. Did you get an answer?
@@malcolmferry44 yes, I asked local technician, basically, it's strongly recommended to drain the fuel tank to prevent fuel from uncontrollably leaking out when you unplug the fuel cable.
Hey thanks for the response. I will empty it as best I can, but I believe that the fuel connections on the bottom of the tank are the dry-break type and so the tank should (n theory) not empty out, although there may be some initial dribble. On the other hand, I believe the fittings are plastic and may break as you manipulate them, so it seems to be a good idea to get out as much fuel as you can before removal. That’s my plan.
Cheers,
Malcolm.
@@malcolmferry44 I had the same question and answered it last night when I removed my FULL tank to do a belt service for the 1st time. Lost about 1 teaspoon of fuel before the dribble stopped. In short - NO, emptying the fuel tank wasn't required, although it would have made jockying it off easier.
Not required, but recommended.
Hell! Did you scratch the fairing on the right hand side? 🙁
Sure did, tripped off camera and not too pleased. I should have figured someone would see it.
I’m feeling your pain, not criticising. I received my bike back after an insurance claim last September (someone reversed into me in a passing place on single track road) and I spent another 2k on cosmetic mods on top of the £5k claim and I hate every blemish that appears on anything, so that scratch on your bike hurt to look at. I hope you get it fixed nicely. I’ve covered my bike in paint protection film, its worth all the hassle. Good luck and thanks again for the video post. 🙂
@@ducatidiy Sorry you scratched it up. Musta been some cussing, or would have been if it had been me.
👍👏👏👏👌