1) A friend asked me to move some hives to his fruit orchard. It's 1.3 miles from my apiary as the bee flies. Do you think this is too close to just move them directly to the orchard? 12:19 2) I have brood cells with multiple eggs in them. I did spot the queen, and she is also laying. What are your thoughts? 16:11 3) I have several large colonies that I would like to re-queen. What is the quickest and most effective way to isolate the queen to transplant into a nuc resource hive if I cannot spot her? 22:15 4) You talked about using a queen excluder cage and drone comb to attract varroa mites. Do you think you could collect the cages with drones and put them in a separate deep box and do an OAV treatment? 25:56 5) I have a box of BetterComb frames and comb. My bees would not utilize any of the comb. It looks like the cells are upside down. Have any of your listeners had this problem with BetterComb? 37:00 6) I don't have a wax moth problem yet. Can I put a bug-light next to a hive on a timer that comes on after dark and off an hour before dawn? 42:14 7) I'm not sure if I have a spicy colony or if it's inexperience. I have swarm colonies, they are feral. I've never experienced a calm inspection. What do you think? 44:36 8) Could you refresh my memory and others on the best height and orientation of the entry of a swarm trap? 51:13
You're welcome, it's not just working for me, it's working for everyone that has them :) It's a pleasure to promote something that really does what it's designed to do :) It was also the centerpiece of my presentation to a beekeeping club last Wednesday :) (yesterday) it's a hit.
Hi Fred. Thank you so much for the shout out! So far, so good. The bees in the orchard are busy on the fruit trees and I haven’t really seen any orphan bees in my apiary. If there were any they must have joined up with one of the other colonies like you predicted. I truly appreciate all your insight. I’ll try to post a little video update later.
As I come up to speed on my understanding of the overall picture of things bee's, I would consider this my favorite Q and A that I have seen so far! You covered so many significant timely points that were already on my mind. I feel like I should be paying you for the lessons at times, thanks for your drive to expand people's knowledge on these things. Finding your channel was a huge plus, I hope others will find it also! Fly by night youtuber's are no replacement for someone actually doing different things to see what works best for you in your area and telling people as much.
Thanks for the info on bee buffet feeder. Im a new beekeeper and searching for inside cover feeding vs entrance feeder. Your info helps alot and thanks for sharing.
When I saw those feeders at Hive Life, I knew you'd be all over them. Lots of good videos this week. You've been working hard. Thank you. Got some good info. Thanks for letting me use your name so I, too, can pay the same price as everyone else.🙂
Yep, My name definitely opens doors and lightens wallets ;) It was pure good fortune that I found the Bee Buffet owners at the very last moment at Hive Life. You're right, I instantly saw the potential and they are made of very sturdy material. I'm an instant fan. :)
Fred, I posetd a video last year of a queen the had an issue like you mentioned where as she would walk around the frame eggs would drop out of her at random. Great video thanks for what you do!
Thanks for bringing the betterbee synthetic frames to our attention!! I have purchased these frames last year and had noticed several of my deeps (4-5) not being utilized and others being fully drawn out…. I wondered why but never thought that it could be because the foundation was installed upside down from the factory??!!?? After seeing your demonstration, I went and checked on those framesTo my surprise, I also have frames with the foundation being installed incorrectly…. I have reached out to betterbee, and hopefully they will make things right….
Update…. I am extremely impressed with customer support I received from betterbee!! After opening a ticket, I was greeted by a support representative apologizing and asked for me to send images validating my claim. After uploading images, I received another apology and the issue was resolved!! Again I am very impressed and highly recommend BetterBee!! Thanks again for all that you do… ~Allen
I think that the Mason jar feeder base is very very clever! (The, Bee Buffet Feeders). I take umbrage with your thoughts that it isn't as important in the Tennessee area regardless of the small or large mouthed jars... I contend that due to the VERY fluctuating temperature variabilities of our climate during winter and early spring - This jar feeder base would be most welcome and effective. One day the temperature can be seventy five degrees and then the next day it can be 30 degrees. Those wide swings can be accommodated well for our environment. I lose more hives due to these weird fluctuations than anything else. Thank you for the channel. I watch your videos religiously!
Thanks Jeff... I have received heavy and passionate pushback from some southern beekeepers when I suggest that inverted jar feeding can present challenges. I appreciate what you've shared here. Thanks.
Another great video thank you for what you do. It is finally warming up her in Michigan Upper Peninsula with temps.getting into the 60s this week so I am putting out ultra bee pollen substitute my bees have been in the hives since October been a long winter. You and your family have a wonderful Easter.
Thank you for reviewing your experience with the Bee Buffet Feeders; I was waiting for this before purchasing them. I have been using the rapid round feeders, yellow with clear lids and I like them; but am always looking for different options outside as well as inside the hive feeders. Thanks again for your excellent videos.
You're welcome, I definitely like the Bee Buffet. Rapid rounds can be used for solids also, so they both have their appeal/uses. Bee Buffet has a small insert for solid feed, but it's very small indeed.
My vote on the multiple eggs at the bottom of some cells in a zone of comb is a queen starting up for the season being corralled by some workers and having little choice but to reuse some cells..
Hey Fred! Follow up on the multiple eggs in single cells - inspected today (11) days after first sighting and the area is all capped worker brood. Thanks for your advice!
Instead of staring at the frame you are pulling out, look down on the frame right next to it. The Queen sits taller and sticks out like a sore thumb. Credit to Randy Oliver. I can usually find my queen with ease in my big crowded hives using this technique.
I had a queen that was black and impossible to find until I got her marked. We finally found her by shaking all the frames through a queen excluder, and slipping the shaken frames back into the box under the excluder. She appeared on the wall of the shaker box.
Thanks for sharing your method! I'm a fan (within the last few years) of always being ready to mark a queen whenever you come across her. It's helpful in many situations.
My Bee Buffet sugar water feeders are working out great. I did have one problem, which turned out just fine in the end. While changing my sugar water jar, I put it on the ground and without my knowledge a bee went into the jar. I noticed her after turning the jar onto the feeder, as you know, there was nothing I could do at that point. I was using the small mouth top and when I went back to change it again, she was gone. Now I know how she escaped certain death and ended up in the top area of the hive super. I was so relieved, accidents happen, but I hate being the one responsible for any unnecessary deaths.
Re Apimaye 7 frame nucleus hives: these hives come with divider boards to convert the box to two 3 frame nucs . there are also supers available with their own divider boards, and each box has left and right round hole entrance options to keep the entrances separate. I’ve used a triple stack to house 6 queens with 6 three frame colonies. In my opinion these are the most versatile of the Apimaye line and make housing resource colonies a breeze.
On the Bettercomb issue, they knew about it. Last summer my hives were getting honey bound so I bought some pre assembled. It arrived and I took a couple out and looked them over, both good. I went to work putting them in the brood chambers, (bottom boxes of my three deep stacks). On the 14th hive I noticed the comb was upside down so I checked more of the remaining frames, and found about half were wrong. So I spent the next three hours going back through my hives and pulling the bad ones. I made a phone call and described the upside down issue. The lady politely told me that the at was the way they were supposed to be, to which I said "I have about half of the order assembled the other way". 20 min on hold later a voice came on and apologized for the long wait and explained that everyone was in a meeting. I asked if it was about upside down wax comb and she answered yes. I had to ship the bad stuff back and wait for another batch to be shipped out. After all that (I had placed two frames per hive) the bees did not like the wax or the toothpicks that were placed into the side bars and had begun removing the wax around them. I can't recommend using them.
Thanks for sharing what your experience was, and what you observed. Wow, I hope people are checking their bettercomb. It has worked well for me, but I installed it myself.
Yes! I had one of my Bettercomb frames assembled upside down. I started out assembling my own frames, but Betterbee's prices dropped so I orders a BUNCH of pre-assembled frames. Only one of those pre-assembled frames was upside down - but yes...it happens.
Yes! It's Fred-Day! Springtime high yesterday of 54 F, bees all over the pollen sub and yes no natural pollen yet. Today with a high of 48 F with winds 15-25 with gusts to 35MPHand the bees were out early at 40 F rolling in the sub. My last overwintered 6 frame Layens nuc emerged yesterday and today they found the pollen sub. That makes 3 of 4 Layens nucs that made it this far. We have temps in the mid 60's predicted next week and I plan to transfer the 3 nucs into fullsized Layens then. Enough of me, you have my full attention. I vote for workers Mike. I have an idea with the Bee Buffet, if you had a wide mouth lid in the buffet but no wide mouth jar, could you set a narrow mouth jar with lid on top of the wide mouth lid? Not ideal, but could it work? Thanks for another great Q&A and for 2 great Interviews with Experts! Great brain food!
That's a great suggestion, but you'd need to make sure it remains absolutely centered over the holes. It would also be prone to tipping, but is a temp. solution. Thanks for sharing.
I can't believe it. Today in northern Missouri a buddy of mine captured a swarm at 6:00 PM. Temp today was sunny and 63 degrees. It was from a hive in a large hollow catalpa tree that we were planning on cutting out tomorrow. I'm just so surprised. My buddy says he usually gets his firs swarms in May or at earliest late April. Well, at least the colony will be knocked down a bit for tomorrow. Not sure if the queen was in the box, but it seemed they were going into the box.
Fred, I sold two hives to a new beekeeper and suggested to her to buy some Better comb Frames which she did. She noticed they didn't look right and were angled down. She had bought them installed. She called Better Bee and they refused to believe her. She left them in for awhile and I looked at them myself and they were upside down installed. After time the bees started to tear down the cells and then rebuild some of the cells angled at the right direction. I was not impressed with Better Bees customer service. They were wrong and didn't back the product.
Hi Russell, thanks for sharing that experience. Based on responses here, it seems that Better Bee's response was variable depending on who answered the phone. This isn't an isolated experience. I think the final word would be that you should do the installation yourself. I'm very surprised that they shipped them upside down... not good.
When you put the drone frame in the container I'm thinking we can put a screen in the bottom of the container. When the drones and mites are 'knocked' out perhaps the mites will drop through the screen, isolating them from the drones.
I have 4 hives that all made it thru winter (North Carolona Zone 7b). Starting March 21, they all started swarming. I'm just in my 2nd year and don't know how to thwart swarming. I've added supers with open WW frames early, swapped boxes and cut swarm cells out (probably too late). I caught 9 swarms using scented traps 30 feet in front of hives. I catch them on the side of the traps within an hour or so of swarming, and so far only one swarm actually went inside a trap. I have no mites (treated in October and January) and very few beetles and no wax moths. Lots of local resources for bees (bringing pollen in). I have several water sources maintained near and around my hives. I noticed Bees taking in lots of water (crowding at watering sources) a week or 2 before swarming. Since swarming, I've noticed very decreased water hole crowding. With all that said, how do I reduce swarming as much as possible and make honey instead of producing bees? Thanks.
The greatest predictor of swarming, after you've expanded the hives and supered them and all else you know how to do, is going to be genetics. There are definite swarming, or non-swarming traits associated with specific lines. The most impressive thing you said is that you have no mites. That's outstanding.
I should have said I see no evidence of any mites. I treated with OA 3 times 6 days apart in October and one treatment in early Janurary. I keep trays under my screened bottom boards and analyze them several times a week and clean them out completely clean once a month. Before I treated with OA, I would find occasional live or dead mites in the trays. Since treating, I've not seen any mites anywhere. I've not actually performed a sugar roll or alcohol wash or CO2. Im leaning towards the CO2 like you demonstrated in a YT video. If there are mites, their numbers are greatly decreased. The first 2 OA treatments generated lots of dead mites in the trays. The 3rd treatment a few and the single Janurary treatment produced hardly any.
Hi. Probably should mention to new beeks that lights at night do affect bees. If the bees can see a light from the hive entrance, they may be attracted to it.
Wouldn't it be interesting if SOMEONE designed a system to move all the bees (one frame at a time) in a hive over a screen, put them to sleep with CO2 have the mites fall off onto a hot plate or a type of bug zapper killing the mites? Hmm chemical free likely not too expensive. Seems doable. This could be run off replaceable 18-24 volt portable batteries. Millions of battery operated mosquito zappers sold in North America each year. I'm 65 and just bought my first hive. I've got a mentor and looking forward to the journey. Love the Channel. Located in Canada due east of the state of Maine,. Cheers
Sounds like you have an experiment on your hands. Instead of a hot plate, just a surface covered with Dawn Ultra dish soap as a thin film would work instantly.
@@FrederickDunn Thanks, Just got my second coat of paint on my 1st and only hive today. Fingers crossed my first bees will arrive early June. I'll be attending my first hive inspections with my mentor this week when it warms up, looking forward to a new experience. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I am betting on workers hatch (not drones) . Please give follow-up if you find out. Also, I have the NUC as a potential resource hive on standby in case my spring-installed package surprised and threatens to swarm and I can queen-over-to-NUC as you explained. Feeling prepared.
The QPM worked on the laying worker colony, I shook all the bees out on the ground about 60' from the hive and froze all the frames with brood on them, gave them a frame of food, put the QPM tubing on a bamboo skewer stick slid it inside entrance and up between the frames for several days, until I found a frame with 1/2 done queen cells, pulled the QPM out gave them the queen cells to finish, they did and one hatched and killed the other cells, I'm waiting her to mate and start laying.
@@FrederickDunn i jyst figured it would be easier to pick drones off frames,with tweezers when wearing gloves, and count 40 as i toss into soapy water test jar, then swirl to release mites.
how many knots there sailor? ,ahoy matey an shiver me timbers on the poopdeck,,lol,,I LOVE old Navy shows, especially subs with R.Widmark,,R.Mitchum,etc...
Follow up on my question about spicey bees. I'm fully suited up. I do use smoke. And they do follow me at a good distance. I've seen nectar in some cells, but not much honey left from winter. Are they hungry? Or do I need to replace the queen? BTW I'll get goat skin gloves😉 And thank you for your time.
I hope they will calm right down as nectar comes in strong. It's no fun to have "hot" bees around. Me personally, I re-queen any that are defensive beyond what I think is reasonable. Thanks for the update, Linda :)
I wonder if the bee buffet feeder could over fill the feeder tray due to temperature changes. I am wondering if multiple heat/cold temperature cycles would push sugar syrup out of the bottle to the extent that it would overflow the inner edge of the tray and drip down on top of the frames in the same manner that other mason jar type feeders would? Something worth testing out Fred.
Here's my take on that... it's highly unlikely. Here's why - With the reservoir under the inverted jar, at night when the air space contracts and creates a vacuum, it sucks in the liquid that's in the trough. With inverted jars that aren't resting in a reservoir they draw air in at night when temps drop and that adds to the air space that then expands when the warmup arrives again. So it's two fold, the reserve depth, and the syrup that prevents air from drawing up into the jar. BUT, if they do hit a failure point, I will be sure to share it. I don't do my tests just once, observations are ongoing always.
Question for you... what kind, size and length nail do/should you use to build frames? I have a framing jig but not sure what size nails to use to assemble the frames or how many to put where? I'll be nailing by hand with a hammer. This will be the first time I assemble frames. The old frames that I have looked at all seem to vary.
I have 2 dead outs from last season that have capped honey supers. How can I be sure that the honey is ok to extract? The hives will have new nucs installed soon. Should I keep the supers on the hive for the nucs? Will they utilize the honey or is it okay to extract? Is it safe to consume?
The concerns about sharing honey are always toward the other bees. Human consumption isn't part of that concern unless synthetic chemicals have been used in that hive. You're ok to extract and use it. It's unlikely that the bees will use it when new nectar is coming in.
Video conformation or preliminary data can be very helpful but can also lead one to a false conclusion. For example, in your case, the relative preference of your pollen offerings might be different at other times of year. Additionally, other offerings in the environment may skew a result.
All tests are easily repeated by anyone anywhere. You can't go wrong with any of the three products. I invite others to make their own observations and share their results.
hey Fred hope your winter was good, strange weather here in New England. anyways I know I've brought it up before but this constant bee industry media push for dry pollen or syrup in early spring for early spring brood build up just seems detrimental to me personally. I feel people need to hear negatives of this as well. my local adapted TF bees know the environment and know when to start building , know when to go search and crawl in a skunk cabbage bloom. know when weather is coming to prevent big build ups when they can't get resources. I just think artificially encouraging buildup can be detrimental and can also start the build up of mites earlier then normal and overwhelm them earlier. most of my lines keep small brood nests untill maple and dandelion. i want the enviroment to contribute to size of brood nest or inhibit to no brood in serious dearths. bees know better. constant encouraging massive brood nests (mite factories) then having to treat more often and creating super mites just doesn't seem sustainable to me. thanks for all you do Fred!
Hi Pete, I try to give both sides of each practice as much as possible. That's why I'm not overly promoting the dry pollen sub feeding practice, but if people are going to do it I'd like them to know what's attracting the foragers. I agree that having bees that develop in concert with the local climate and seasons will be the best bet. However, our current weather conditions are in flux, I also think it's important for people to know how they can help their bees if things are going badly. You'll find your path, and when it works you'll know you've arrived. I'll try to keep the information and choices coming.
@Frederick Dunn I understand Fred, I don't mean any disrespect at all, I think what you do is extremely important with so many new people jumping in beekeeping. I just wanted to add on to some of the points that you have added to more of the let them bee theory. I agree weather is changing, and my first blooms are changing very rapidly every year. I'm sure bees have been through drastic changes in climates in past and I personally think they should manage and if some can't then I'll propagate the ones that can. Thank you for replying Fred, I sometimes get frustrated with the pushing of so many different additives and feed and other things that mostly aren't "needed" from the bee industry. I feel many are jumping in to make money in the beekeeping craze. Have a good Easter!
Hello Fred hey, this is Brian from kingdom city, Missouri. I currently have five layens hives and enjoy them very much. Bees are doing real well, looking to catch some more feral swarms this spring but my question now is chickens I got eight very young buff Orrington chicks that I believe they’re all females and this fall or next spring. I’d like to add a rooster how long after you add the rooster, would you say that the eggs are safe to being fertilized
That is a terrible situation, Charles. Getting slimed in spring is not fun. With no eggs and no queen, you may want to consider combining that colony with another one.
Also, what if the infested drones have already been infected with viruses? Is it a good idea to return them to the hive? Maybe do a sort, dropping drones with mites in a kill container and drop clear drones in a return to have container.
The good news is the drones take IN food from other bees and don't feed others, so they are actually much less of a vector than workers. But you're right, if they are diseased, or show any evidence of heavy infestation from mites, they may be culled.
About the drone co2 experiment, I was thinking loading the drones with so many mites what about them vectoring any viruses to any prospective virgin queens, I know it dosent spread by trophalaxsis via drones. ? Thanks Fred for another great q&a
Hi Emma, that's an interesting thought! I think that's possible, BUT... if a drone were seriously hindred by vectored disease(s) my thinking is also that he wouldn't be a top performer in the drone comet that forms behind a virgin queen in flight. So, just thinking, he wouldn't likely be one of the successful mates when competing with healthier drones. What do you think?
Yep never thought about that, it would also be weakened by the varroa just feeding off it without any virus load and probably wouldn’t be a top contender. Thanks
If the varoa mites are attracted by drone pheromone, is there any study underway to produce pheromone to attract the mites away from the nurse bees towards a trap and to their doom?. A sticky board impregnated with drone pheromone concept.
That's a great question! And you're right, they were not all the same production age. The Ultra Bee was purchased last fall, and the other two were purchased this February. So, maybe better with age? All are well within their use-by dates. All three formulas would do well by your bees in my opinion. Ap24 is most often cited as the most nutritious for the bees.
I'm sure I'm not the first to point it out, but raw hide and cow hide are not the same thing. I've never seen raw hide gloves (though I bet they exist for some purpose). Just my 2 bits
1) A friend asked me to move some hives to his fruit orchard. It's 1.3 miles from my apiary as the bee flies. Do you think this is too close to just move them directly to the orchard? 12:19
2) I have brood cells with multiple eggs in them. I did spot the queen, and she is also laying. What are your thoughts? 16:11
3) I have several large colonies that I would like to re-queen. What is the quickest and most effective way to isolate the queen to transplant into a nuc resource hive if I cannot spot her? 22:15
4) You talked about using a queen excluder cage and drone comb to attract varroa mites. Do you think you could collect the cages with drones and put them in a separate deep box and do an OAV treatment? 25:56
5) I have a box of BetterComb frames and comb. My bees would not utilize any of the comb. It looks like the cells are upside down. Have any of your listeners had this problem with BetterComb? 37:00
6) I don't have a wax moth problem yet. Can I put a bug-light next to a hive on a timer that comes on after dark and off an hour before dawn? 42:14
7) I'm not sure if I have a spicy colony or if it's inexperience. I have swarm colonies, they are feral. I've never experienced a calm inspection. What do you think? 44:36
8) Could you refresh my memory and others on the best height and orientation of the entry of a swarm trap? 51:13
Thank you so much for sharing our Bee Buffet, Fred! We're glad to hear that it's working well for you!
You're welcome, it's not just working for me, it's working for everyone that has them :) It's a pleasure to promote something that really does what it's designed to do :) It was also the centerpiece of my presentation to a beekeeping club last Wednesday :) (yesterday) it's a hit.
@@FrederickDunn Oh Wow! Thank you so much for your kind words and for sharing us at the beekeeping club as well!
It's great to hear that it was a hit!
Hi Fred. Thank you so much for the shout out! So far, so good. The bees in the orchard are busy on the fruit trees and I haven’t really seen any orphan bees in my apiary. If there were any they must have joined up with one of the other colonies like you predicted. I truly appreciate all your insight. I’ll try to post a little video update later.
Hi Fred I always learn something new. Just love to know bee stuff ❤❤❤
As I come up to speed on my understanding of the overall picture of things bee's, I would consider this my favorite Q and A that I have seen so far!
You covered so many significant timely points that were already on my mind. I feel like I should be paying you for the lessons at times, thanks for your drive to expand people's knowledge on these things. Finding your channel was a huge plus, I hope others will find it also! Fly by night youtuber's are no replacement for someone actually doing different things to see what works best for you in your area and telling people as much.
Thank you, Tommy :)
Great content and topics that you covered. I have learned so much from these videos. Take care.
Thank you, Tim!
Fantastic bees 🐝🐝🐝🐝 💕💕💕💕
thanks Fred! The Dandelions are blooming in large quantities in Bucks County PA. Supers on!
Wow, lucky you!
I enjoy your videos. Thank you.
Glad you like them!
Thanks for the info on bee buffet feeder. Im a new beekeeper and searching for inside cover feeding vs entrance feeder. Your info helps alot and thanks for sharing.
It's currently the best hive feeder that I know of. Excellent design.
When I saw those feeders at Hive Life, I knew you'd be all over them.
Lots of good videos this week. You've been working hard. Thank you. Got some good info.
Thanks for letting me use your name so I, too, can pay the same price as everyone else.🙂
Yep, My name definitely opens doors and lightens wallets ;) It was pure good fortune that I found the Bee Buffet owners at the very last moment at Hive Life. You're right, I instantly saw the potential and they are made of very sturdy material. I'm an instant fan. :)
Fred, I posetd a video last year of a queen the had an issue like you mentioned where as she would walk around the frame eggs would drop out of her at random. Great video thanks for what you do!
Thanks Fred, have a great weekend, happy Easter!
Thanks, you too!
Great job as well! Enjoying this content. Keep it up! Go BEES!
Appreciate it!
Thanks for bringing the betterbee synthetic frames to our attention!! I have purchased these frames last year and had noticed several of my deeps (4-5) not being utilized and others being fully drawn out…. I wondered why but never thought that it could be because the foundation was installed upside down from the factory??!!?? After seeing your demonstration, I went and checked on those framesTo my surprise, I also have frames with the foundation being installed incorrectly…. I have reached out to betterbee, and hopefully they will make things right….
Wow, please keep us posted regarding what thay said about that issue. I'm so glad you checked.
Update…. I am extremely impressed with customer support I received from betterbee!! After opening a ticket, I was greeted by a support representative apologizing and asked for me to send images validating my claim.
After uploading images, I received another apology and the issue was resolved!!
Again I am very impressed and highly recommend BetterBee!!
Thanks again for all that you do…
~Allen
Happy Easter, Fred… lunch time in SoCal 🍻🍻
Happy Friday Fred! Truly enjoyed the interviews this week..thnx so much! (I vote workers in Mike's hive)
Glad you enjoyed it
I think that the Mason jar feeder base is very very clever! (The, Bee Buffet Feeders). I take umbrage with your thoughts that it isn't as important in the Tennessee area regardless of the small or large mouthed jars... I contend that due to the VERY fluctuating temperature variabilities of our climate during winter and early spring - This jar feeder base would be most welcome and effective. One day the temperature can be seventy five degrees and then the next day it can be 30 degrees. Those wide swings can be accommodated well for our environment. I lose more hives due to these weird fluctuations than anything else. Thank you for the channel. I watch your videos religiously!
Thanks Jeff... I have received heavy and passionate pushback from some southern beekeepers when I suggest that inverted jar feeding can present challenges. I appreciate what you've shared here. Thanks.
Happy Easter 🕊️ 🐣
Same to you! :)
@@FrederickDunn ☺️ Have a nice day . Happy Easter 🕊️ 🐣
Another great video thank you for what you do. It is finally warming up her in Michigan Upper Peninsula with temps.getting into the 60s this week so I am putting out ultra bee pollen substitute my bees have been in the hives since October been a long winter. You and your family have a wonderful Easter.
Thank you for reviewing your experience with the Bee Buffet Feeders; I was waiting for this before purchasing them. I have been using the rapid round feeders, yellow with clear lids and I like them; but am always looking for different options outside as well as inside the hive feeders. Thanks again for your excellent videos.
You're welcome, I definitely like the Bee Buffet. Rapid rounds can be used for solids also, so they both have their appeal/uses. Bee Buffet has a small insert for solid feed, but it's very small indeed.
My vote on the multiple eggs at the bottom of some cells in a zone of comb is a queen starting up for the season being corralled by some workers and having little choice but to reuse some cells..
Hey Fred! Follow up on the multiple eggs in single cells - inspected today (11) days after first sighting and the area is all capped worker brood. Thanks for your advice!
Aha! That's great news, Michael! Thank you for sharing and giving us an update.
Great content as always, Fred! Thanks!
Instead of staring at the frame you are pulling out, look down on the frame right next to it. The Queen sits taller and sticks out like a sore thumb. Credit to Randy Oliver. I can usually find my queen with ease in my big crowded hives using this technique.
Thank you for helping with my question, bug zapper only good for chickens 👍 lol. And thank you for the great informative videos.
You're very welcome! I don't think you will have an issue with wax worms :) thanks for the follow up :)
I was so late to this episode it will soon be Friday lol , great though as always 👍🏻🇬🇧
I had a queen that was black and impossible to find until I got her marked. We finally found her by shaking all the frames through a queen excluder, and slipping the shaken frames back into the box under the excluder. She appeared on the wall of the shaker box.
Thanks for sharing your method! I'm a fan (within the last few years) of always being ready to mark a queen whenever you come across her. It's helpful in many situations.
My Bee Buffet sugar water feeders are working out great. I did have one problem, which turned out just fine in the end. While changing my sugar water jar, I put it on the ground and without my knowledge a bee went into the jar. I noticed her after turning the jar onto the feeder, as you know, there was nothing I could do at that point. I was using the small mouth top and when I went back to change it again, she was gone. Now I know how she escaped certain death and ended up in the top area of the hive super. I was so relieved, accidents happen, but I hate being the one responsible for any unnecessary deaths.
I think you are a very conscientious beekeeper, Linda! Thanks for sharing.
Re Apimaye 7 frame nucleus hives: these hives come with divider boards to convert the box to two 3 frame nucs . there are also supers available with their own divider boards, and each box has left and right round hole entrance options to keep the entrances separate. I’ve used a triple stack to house 6 queens with 6 three frame colonies. In my opinion these are the most versatile of the Apimaye line and make housing resource colonies a breeze.
I agree, they are definitely well designed and have the versatility that you described :) Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
On the Bettercomb issue, they knew about it. Last summer my hives were getting honey bound so I bought some pre assembled. It arrived and I took a couple out and looked them over, both good. I went to work putting them in the brood chambers, (bottom boxes of my three deep stacks). On the 14th hive I noticed the comb was upside down so I checked more of the remaining frames, and found about half were wrong. So I spent the next three hours going back through my hives and pulling the bad ones. I made a phone call and described the upside down issue. The lady politely told me that the at was the way they were supposed to be, to which I said "I have about half of the order assembled the other way". 20 min on hold later a voice came on and apologized for the long wait and explained that everyone was in a meeting. I asked if it was about upside down wax comb and she answered yes. I had to ship the bad stuff back and wait for another batch to be shipped out. After all that (I had placed two frames per hive) the bees did not like the wax or the toothpicks that were placed into the side bars and had begun removing the wax around them. I can't recommend using them.
Thanks for sharing what your experience was, and what you observed. Wow, I hope people are checking their bettercomb. It has worked well for me, but I installed it myself.
Yes! I had one of my Bettercomb frames assembled upside down. I started out assembling my own frames, but Betterbee's prices dropped so I orders a BUNCH of pre-assembled frames. Only one of those pre-assembled frames was upside down - but yes...it happens.
Wow, another one? This is really sounding like an issue. Thanks for sharing.
Happy Easter
Oh, I forgot to mention that. Thanks, Peter!
I was thinking about a vaporizing box too
hillarys kearny is quite a beekeeper,i may have to get her book queen spotting,
Yes, it is
Opening video looks great on 75" TV.
Nice :) thanks for letting me know :)
Yes! It's Fred-Day! Springtime high yesterday of 54 F, bees all over the pollen sub and yes no natural pollen yet. Today with a high of 48 F with winds 15-25 with gusts to 35MPHand the bees were out early at 40 F rolling in the sub. My last overwintered 6 frame Layens nuc emerged yesterday and today they found the pollen sub. That makes 3 of 4 Layens nucs that made it this far. We have temps in the mid 60's predicted next week and I plan to transfer the 3 nucs into fullsized Layens then. Enough of me, you have my full attention. I vote for workers Mike. I have an idea with the Bee Buffet, if you had a wide mouth lid in the buffet but no wide mouth jar, could you set a narrow mouth jar with lid on top of the wide mouth lid? Not ideal, but could it work? Thanks for another great Q&A and for 2 great Interviews with Experts! Great brain food!
That's a great suggestion, but you'd need to make sure it remains absolutely centered over the holes. It would also be prone to tipping, but is a temp. solution. Thanks for sharing.
I can't believe it. Today in northern Missouri a buddy of mine captured a swarm at 6:00 PM. Temp today was sunny and 63 degrees. It was from a hive in a large hollow catalpa tree that we were planning on cutting out tomorrow. I'm just so surprised. My buddy says he usually gets his firs swarms in May or at earliest late April. Well, at least the colony will be knocked down a bit for tomorrow. Not sure if the queen was in the box, but it seemed they were going into the box.
I'm glad your friend was able to hive them up! Sounds like you may have some nice genetics there :)
thanks mr dunn!!! i like wha tyou said in this video!!!
You are very welcome
Fred, I sold two hives to a new beekeeper and suggested to her to buy some Better comb Frames which she did. She noticed they didn't look right and were angled down. She had bought them installed. She called Better Bee and they refused to believe her. She left them in for awhile and I looked at them myself and they were upside down installed. After time the bees started to tear down the cells and then rebuild some of the cells angled at the right direction. I was not impressed with Better Bees customer service. They were wrong and didn't back the product.
Hi Russell, thanks for sharing that experience. Based on responses here, it seems that Better Bee's response was variable depending on who answered the phone. This isn't an isolated experience. I think the final word would be that you should do the installation yourself. I'm very surprised that they shipped them upside down... not good.
When you put the drone frame in the container I'm thinking we can put a screen in the bottom of the container. When the drones and mites are 'knocked' out perhaps the mites will drop through the screen, isolating them from the drones.
We'll see.
I have 4 hives that all made it thru winter (North Carolona Zone 7b). Starting March 21, they all started swarming. I'm just in my 2nd year and don't know how to thwart swarming. I've added supers with open WW frames early, swapped boxes and cut swarm cells out (probably too late). I caught 9 swarms using scented traps 30 feet in front of hives. I catch them on the side of the traps within an hour or so of swarming, and so far only one swarm actually went inside a trap. I have no mites (treated in October and January) and very few beetles and no wax moths. Lots of local resources for bees (bringing pollen in). I have several water sources maintained near and around my hives. I noticed Bees taking in lots of water (crowding at watering sources) a week or 2 before swarming. Since swarming, I've noticed very decreased water hole crowding. With all that said, how do I reduce swarming as much as possible and make honey instead of producing bees? Thanks.
The greatest predictor of swarming, after you've expanded the hives and supered them and all else you know how to do, is going to be genetics. There are definite swarming, or non-swarming traits associated with specific lines. The most impressive thing you said is that you have no mites. That's outstanding.
I should have said I see no evidence of any mites. I treated with OA 3 times 6 days apart in October and one treatment in early Janurary. I keep trays under my screened bottom boards and analyze them several times a week and clean them out completely clean once a month. Before I treated with OA, I would find occasional live or dead mites in the trays. Since treating, I've not seen any mites anywhere. I've not actually performed a sugar roll or alcohol wash or CO2. Im leaning towards the CO2 like you demonstrated in a YT video. If there are mites, their numbers are greatly decreased. The first 2 OA treatments generated lots of dead mites in the trays. The 3rd treatment a few and the single Janurary treatment produced hardly any.
Hi. Probably should mention to new beeks that lights at night do affect bees. If the bees can see a light from the hive entrance, they may be attracted to it.
True, no floodlights near the apiary.
Great vdo
Thanks, Peter!
Wouldn't it be interesting if SOMEONE designed a system to move all the bees (one frame at a time) in a hive over a screen, put them to sleep with CO2 have the mites fall off onto a hot plate or a type of bug zapper killing the mites? Hmm chemical free likely not too expensive. Seems doable. This could be run off replaceable 18-24 volt portable batteries. Millions of battery operated mosquito zappers sold in North America each year. I'm 65 and just bought my first hive. I've got a mentor and looking forward to the journey. Love the Channel. Located in Canada due east of the state of Maine,. Cheers
Sounds like you have an experiment on your hands. Instead of a hot plate, just a surface covered with Dawn Ultra dish soap as a thin film would work instantly.
@@FrederickDunn Thanks, Just got my second coat of paint on my 1st and only hive today. Fingers crossed my first bees will arrive early June. I'll be attending my first hive inspections with my mentor this week when it warms up, looking forward to a new experience. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I am betting on workers hatch (not drones) . Please give follow-up if you find out. Also, I have the NUC as a potential resource hive on standby in case my spring-installed package surprised and threatens to swarm and I can queen-over-to-NUC as you explained. Feeling prepared.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts! :) I'm looking forward to the feedback/update.
The cage appears to have a major twist in it.
The QPM worked on the laying worker colony, I shook all the bees out on the ground about 60' from the hive and froze all the frames with brood on them, gave them a frame of food, put the QPM tubing on a bamboo skewer stick slid it inside entrance and up between the frames for several days, until I found a frame with 1/2 done queen cells, pulled the QPM out gave them the queen cells to finish, they did and one hatched and killed the other cells, I'm waiting her to mate and start laying.
That's great! Thanks for sharing what you did and what the final results were. :)
i think ill try tweezers and a dawn dishsoap wash for a base line count of mite load
If you use Dawn Ultra dish soap, you won't need those tweezers :)
@@FrederickDunn i jyst figured it would be easier to pick drones off frames,with tweezers when wearing gloves, and count 40 as i toss into soapy water test jar, then swirl to release mites.
how many knots there sailor? ,ahoy matey an shiver me timbers on the poopdeck,,lol,,I LOVE old Navy shows, especially subs with R.Widmark,,R.Mitchum,etc...
:)
Hi Fred. Horizontal hive video update would br great😁
I agree, and I'd like the temps to cooperate :) it's 42 degrees at the moment.
Follow up on my question about spicey bees. I'm fully suited up. I do use smoke. And they do follow me at a good distance. I've seen nectar in some cells, but not much honey left from winter. Are they hungry? Or do I need to replace the queen? BTW I'll get goat skin gloves😉 And thank you for your time.
I hope they will calm right down as nectar comes in strong. It's no fun to have "hot" bees around. Me personally, I re-queen any that are defensive beyond what I think is reasonable. Thanks for the update, Linda :)
I wonder if the bee buffet feeder could over fill the feeder tray due to temperature changes. I am wondering if multiple heat/cold temperature cycles would push sugar syrup out of the bottle to the extent that it would overflow the inner edge of the tray and drip down on top of the frames in the same manner that other mason jar type feeders would? Something worth testing out Fred.
Here's my take on that... it's highly unlikely. Here's why - With the reservoir under the inverted jar, at night when the air space contracts and creates a vacuum, it sucks in the liquid that's in the trough. With inverted jars that aren't resting in a reservoir they draw air in at night when temps drop and that adds to the air space that then expands when the warmup arrives again. So it's two fold, the reserve depth, and the syrup that prevents air from drawing up into the jar. BUT, if they do hit a failure point, I will be sure to share it. I don't do my tests just once, observations are ongoing always.
Ultra-Bee has enough lemongrass oil in it to beat the others.
Definitely smells strong. That just may be the key.
I received my drone frames and isolation cage the other day. hoping this becomes an effective tool to help keep spring to mid summer mite levels down
it's going to be a great year for testing that out. I'm very hopeful that it will work.
Question for you... what kind, size and length nail do/should you use to build frames? I have a framing jig but not sure what size nails to use to assemble the frames or how many to put where? I'll be nailing by hand with a hammer. This will be the first time I assemble frames. The old frames that I have looked at all seem to vary.
I put them together with Titebond III and don't use nails at all :) I've never pulled a frame apart.
What's your thoughts on putting the drones in the Tupperware and putting that in a chest freezer for a while?
You can do that. If you freeze them for over 5 minutes, they may all die. That's the general "freeze" limit.
I have 2 dead outs from last season that have capped honey supers. How can I be sure that the honey is ok to extract? The hives will have new nucs installed soon. Should I keep the supers on the hive for the nucs? Will they utilize the honey or is it okay to extract? Is it safe to consume?
The concerns about sharing honey are always toward the other bees. Human consumption isn't part of that concern unless synthetic chemicals have been used in that hive. You're ok to extract and use it. It's unlikely that the bees will use it when new nectar is coming in.
Video conformation or preliminary data can be very helpful but can also lead one to a false conclusion. For example, in your case, the relative preference of your pollen offerings might be different at other times of year. Additionally, other offerings in the environment may skew a result.
All tests are easily repeated by anyone anywhere. You can't go wrong with any of the three products. I invite others to make their own observations and share their results.
hey Fred hope your winter was good, strange weather here in New England. anyways I know I've brought it up before but this constant bee industry media push for dry pollen or syrup in early spring for early spring brood build up just seems detrimental to me personally. I feel people need to hear negatives of this as well. my local adapted TF bees know the environment and know when to start building , know when to go search and crawl in a skunk cabbage bloom. know when weather is coming to prevent big build ups when they can't get resources. I just think artificially encouraging buildup can be detrimental and can also start the build up of mites earlier then normal and overwhelm them earlier. most of my lines keep small brood nests untill maple and dandelion. i want the enviroment to contribute to size of brood nest or inhibit to no brood in serious dearths. bees know better. constant encouraging massive brood nests (mite factories) then having to treat more often and creating super mites just doesn't seem sustainable to me.
thanks for all you do Fred!
Hi Pete, I try to give both sides of each practice as much as possible. That's why I'm not overly promoting the dry pollen sub feeding practice, but if people are going to do it I'd like them to know what's attracting the foragers. I agree that having bees that develop in concert with the local climate and seasons will be the best bet. However, our current weather conditions are in flux, I also think it's important for people to know how they can help their bees if things are going badly. You'll find your path, and when it works you'll know you've arrived. I'll try to keep the information and choices coming.
@Frederick Dunn I understand Fred, I don't mean any disrespect at all, I think what you do is extremely important with so many new people jumping in beekeeping. I just wanted to add on to some of the points that you have added to more of the let them bee theory. I agree weather is changing, and my first blooms are changing very rapidly every year. I'm sure bees have been through drastic changes in climates in past and I personally think they should manage and if some can't then I'll propagate the ones that can. Thank you for replying Fred, I sometimes get frustrated with the pushing of so many different additives and feed and other things that mostly aren't "needed" from the bee industry. I feel many are jumping in to make money in the beekeeping craze. Have a good Easter!
Hello Fred hey, this is Brian from kingdom city, Missouri. I currently have five layens hives and enjoy them very much. Bees are doing real well, looking to catch some more feral swarms this spring but my question now is chickens I got eight very young buff Orrington chicks that I believe they’re all females and this fall or next spring. I’d like to add a rooster how long after you add the rooster, would you say that the eggs are safe to being fertilized
I will be answering this on Friday during the next Q&A :)
Ok I live in northern Indiana and just checked my hive and it has beetle galore and know eggs or queen seen.
That is a terrible situation, Charles. Getting slimed in spring is not fun. With no eggs and no queen, you may want to consider combining that colony with another one.
This is not me
Fred, you need to teach your bees to read, so they can know which dry pollen sub they're supposed to prefer. Maybe some directed advertising.
I have them in remediation as we speak...
I've been told not to use cedar chips for a smoker. Is that so ? I live in Lynchburg Va. Also how many honey supers can I put on the hive ?
Probably due to the oil that's often in cedar. Pine is a better choice in my opinion.
Ok, Thanks
like the emerged drone idea w 1 gram OA treatment to kill mites,...not drones...
Also, what if the infested drones have already been infected with viruses? Is it a good idea to return them to the hive? Maybe do a sort, dropping drones with mites in a kill container and drop clear drones in a return to have container.
The good news is the drones take IN food from other bees and don't feed others, so they are actually much less of a vector than workers. But you're right, if they are diseased, or show any evidence of heavy infestation from mites, they may be culled.
About the drone co2 experiment, I was thinking loading the drones with so many mites what about them vectoring any viruses to any prospective virgin queens, I know it dosent spread by trophalaxsis via drones. ? Thanks Fred for another great q&a
Hi Emma, that's an interesting thought! I think that's possible, BUT... if a drone were seriously hindred by vectored disease(s) my thinking is also that he wouldn't be a top performer in the drone comet that forms behind a virgin queen in flight. So, just thinking, he wouldn't likely be one of the successful mates when competing with healthier drones. What do you think?
Yep never thought about that, it would also be weakened by the varroa just feeding off it without any virus load and probably wouldn’t be a top contender. Thanks
Happy Friday Fred, Good video and info, It was 82f Here today, Really Nice but Hot. Just Emailed You Back :) Great Job Here Fred! Take Care Fred
Enjoy that theraputic heat! I hope your bees are healthy and cooperating with you :)
If the varoa mites are attracted by drone pheromone, is there any study underway to produce pheromone to attract the mites away from the nurse bees towards a trap and to their doom?. A sticky board impregnated with drone pheromone concept.
Yes, several companies that I know of are, and have been working on a drone brood pheromone lure... it's apparently an enormous undertaking.
I wonder if the age of the #1 source had anything to do with the bees preference
That's a great question! And you're right, they were not all the same production age. The Ultra Bee was purchased last fall, and the other two were purchased this February. So, maybe better with age? All are well within their use-by dates. All three formulas would do well by your bees in my opinion. Ap24 is most often cited as the most nutritious for the bees.
It was 80° at 12 it's 49° now
I'm sure I'm not the first to point it out, but raw hide and cow hide are not the same thing. I've never seen raw hide gloves (though I bet they exist for some purpose). Just my 2 bits
Thanks for sharing that! You are indeed the first to point that out. Thank you.
🇱🇨👍🏼♥️
Mr. DUNN
Mr. Dunn
Who makes that bee buffet feeder? Thank you.
I did put a link down in the video description, but the company is called Revolutionary Hives.