So different to the VTR1000R engine. I've had the 1000F and currently have a 1000R that I completely rebuilt. They are both superb, the 1000R being more brutal as I suppose one might expect. Honda no longer support these engines and standard bearing shells (Black) for the R are as rare as rocking horse poo. Fortunately, the clearances on mine measured using Plastigauge are OK. However the bores were pretty scored so I had them Nicasil plated and honed for new JE 11.1:1 pistons. I thought it lacked rip and I was right! The finish that Honda used is quite soft. That means ride gently until it is fully warm.
Thank you. Yes they are in there temporarily, I have two other that Im going to cut and modify on my lathe to make full manual tensioners. How did you modify yours?
@@MountainmanBuildz I locked off the tensioners with the cams in the timed position. I then preceded and removed the plunger head off the tensioner by removing the small roll pin. Measuring the distance between the worm screw and plunger head, l cut a small piece of 8mm steel rod to take up the space inside the tensioner. So in the event of a failure the tensioner it won’t retract. Think of it as a insurance policy for your engine.
@@Desertduleler_88 so you did the stopper mod. One question. How many turns of pre wind on the spring prior to fully reassembling the CCT? Because they unwind a few more turns after taking the worm screw off, on disassembly. Thanks!
@@RuiSantosManatim When measuring the space inside between the worm screw and plunger head, it’s essential to keep the tensioner locked off after removal from the cylinder head. This will ensure the correct the correct piece of steel rod required after removal of the plunger head from the tensioner.
So different to the VTR1000R engine. I've had the 1000F and currently have a 1000R that I completely rebuilt. They are both superb, the 1000R being more brutal as I suppose one might expect. Honda no longer support these engines and standard bearing shells (Black) for the R are as rare as rocking horse poo. Fortunately, the clearances on mine measured using Plastigauge are OK. However the bores were pretty scored so I had them Nicasil plated and honed for new JE 11.1:1 pistons. I thought it lacked rip and I was right! The finish that Honda used is quite soft. That means ride gently until it is fully warm.
Great video series on the VTR, I see you are still using the original cam chain tensioners. I modified mine so they don't fully retract if they fail.
Thank you. Yes they are in there temporarily, I have two other that Im going to cut and modify on my lathe to make full manual tensioners.
How did you modify yours?
@@MountainmanBuildz I locked off the tensioners with the cams in the timed position. I then preceded and removed the plunger head off the tensioner by removing the small roll pin. Measuring the distance between the worm screw and plunger head, l cut a small piece of 8mm steel rod to take up the space inside the tensioner. So in the event of a failure the tensioner it won’t retract. Think of it as a insurance policy for your engine.
@@Desertduleler_88 that makes perfect sense. Thanks.
@@Desertduleler_88 so you did the stopper mod. One question. How many turns of pre wind on the spring prior to fully reassembling the CCT? Because they unwind a few more turns after taking the worm screw off, on disassembly.
Thanks!
@@RuiSantosManatim When measuring the space inside between the worm screw and plunger head, it’s essential to keep the tensioner locked off after removal from the cylinder head. This will ensure the correct the correct piece of steel rod required after removal of the plunger head from the tensioner.
did you buy new bolts for the connecting rods, or did you reuse the old ones?
Hi, I reused the old ones, they dont get torqued much
Where did you buy the parts in South Africa?
Honda Agent and a spare parts engine from someone in CT
I would have swapped out the auto cam chain tensioners for manuals. The autos are a big failure point.