Good video! It would have been nice if you would have told us the torque specs and showed how you removed the parking brake cable from the bracket. Not just the ending where you twist the cable 90 degrees to remove it.
My brakes are at 20% all around. Do I need to turn my rotors even if they look in good condition? The dealer says I do. I think they may just be trying to make an extra buck.
Bearing nut torque. 70 lb feet and back off 7 clicks for used bearings, 5 clicks for new bearings. Drivers side spindle nut is left hand threads. Un-hooking the e brake cables from the mounts were the worst part of the job. The northern rust makes that part of the job even more delightful. Is there a trick or special tool for doing them?
Hi Jim. So, on this backing plate job, is it like most brake work, where, what you do to one side, you do to the other? I'm asking this, because my right side is rusted out like yours in the video. I haven't got the left side rotor off yet, but when I do, if the left side backing plate is not damaged like the other side, do I need to replace anyway?
Good question.Most of the time the right rear is a little more rusted but if the left is still in good shape you don't have to replace it. Did you use my trick for removing the rusted rotors?
I need some help. I just had to replace my emergency brake shoes on my 2000 F250, and went ahead and put in new bearings, races etc in the hubs. Adjusted both "click nuts" to right at 60 ft lns, backed off 5 clicks since I used new bearings. Now my passenger side has destroyed one set of bearings, and after replacing them again, and doing a short test drive, my rotor is hitting 150degF within a mile, while the drivers side is 70 deg. Both were done in an identical manner. I didn't even bother to re-tighten my emergency brake shoes on the right side, the rotor slides right off so don't think they are dragging. When I pull the axle, oil drips out so they are being lubricated. Cannot figure this one out. Ideas anyone? All of this is obviously about the rear wheels.
Thank you-the first expert on Ford bearings on You Tube
Any idea where to get the special tool for removing the axel bearing? Who makes it or who sells it?
Good video! It would have been nice if you would have told us the torque specs and showed how you removed the parking brake cable from the bracket. Not just the ending where you twist the cable 90 degrees to remove it.
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Jim, I's going to try that trick when removing rotor with the bolts. That's a great idea.
You will never reach for a hammer again. Thanks for watching.
This was perfect, I have to make this exact repair on my truck. Thanks for the tutorial!
Awesome job, it pays to know honest mechanics
Outstanding video😅
Thank you so much 😀
My brakes are at 20% all around. Do I need to turn my rotors even if they look in good condition? The dealer says I do. I think they may just be trying to make an extra buck.
Jim, what do you do if the area where the seal rides on damages the stub shaft?
Great video, I have been waiting for this.
Bearing nut torque. 70 lb feet and back off 7 clicks for used bearings, 5 clicks for new bearings. Drivers side spindle nut is left hand threads.
Un-hooking the e brake cables from the mounts were the worst part of the job. The northern rust makes that part of the job even more delightful. Is there a trick or special tool for doing them?
He didn’t back off any clicks. ??
@@deeges9098 bearings will burn up without oil clearance.
I like your video but you need better lighting
Thanks for watching.
2011 F350 XLT SRW and the seal is recessed about 1/4 to 3/8 inch below the surface . Any ideas on how to remove the seal.
Nice trick do I tell the auto parts guy I need 2 heavy duty bolts & he will know what I need?
Hi Jim. So, on this backing plate job, is it like most brake work, where, what you do to one side, you do to the other? I'm asking this, because my right side is rusted out like yours in the video. I haven't got the left side rotor off yet, but when I do, if the left side backing plate is not damaged like the other side, do I need to replace anyway?
Good question.Most of the time the right rear is a little more rusted but if the left is still in good shape you don't have to replace it. Did you use my trick for removing the rusted rotors?
I need some help. I just had to replace my emergency brake shoes on my 2000 F250, and went ahead and put in new bearings, races etc in the hubs. Adjusted both "click nuts" to right at 60 ft lns, backed off 5 clicks since I used new bearings. Now my passenger side has destroyed one set of bearings, and after replacing them again, and doing a short test drive, my rotor is hitting 150degF within a mile, while the drivers side is 70 deg. Both were done in an identical manner. I didn't even bother to re-tighten my emergency brake shoes on the right side, the rotor slides right off so don't think they are dragging. When I pull the axle, oil drips out so they are being lubricated. Cannot figure this one out. Ideas anyone? All of this is obviously about the rear wheels.
Just for reference, can you provide the invoice amount for this job? Just curious
Sorry I don't recall exactly but it was around $800.00-1000.00
@@jimthecarguy Thanks Jim. I believe it. That’s a lot of work.
Where did you buy as a complete assembly?
On this one I had no choice but the dealer.
What was tork spec's on axle nut?