Hole cutting dimensions: 3:09 - Measure 13 inches out from fuel filler hump, then 3:18 - draw a 12 inch X 12 inch square (ending at 3:51). Cut carefully with 4 inch diameter grinding wheel. See open square hole at 4:47. I had to remove two shelves above work area in my 2002 E250. As a safety precaution, I plan to slide under van and cover fuel pump, fuel lines and tank in areas below cutting before I start. Video was very helpful! Thanks for posting!
You got lucky. Normally you would drop the fuel tank, but if doing it this way - #1 Disconnect the battery, #2 Release fuel pressure at the engine fuel rail service port and be sure to use a rag to soak up any gas, #3 Clean upper fuel tank and lines at the pump, #4 Remove fuel lines and disconnect electrical connector, #5 Now remove fuel pump hold down ring using a brass punch or ring removal tool to prevent sparks, #6 Reclean around pump assembly, air blow gun is best, with eye protection #7 Remove pump unit, again clean upper tank and replace with OEM pump assembly and new seal, #8 Reconnect all hoses and electrical, #9 REPLACE FUEL FILTER, #10 Reconnect battery, cycle key five times to pressurize system and check for leaks. If you have an extended crank, you may also need to test the fuel pressure regulator for leakage. A bad fuel pump check valve can also cause this problem, but a new pump assembly should fix this. Good luck, ASE Master Technician
Cutting a hole in the floor will make it easier for sure. But, if your tank has a lot of rust or other crud in there, not a good idea to put a new pump in a dirty tank. Otherwise you will be replacing the pump again sooner rather than later. Just drop the tank and do it right the first time, then you won't have to be cutting holes in your floor and what not.
Many sedans don't require the tank to be dropped and have access holes built into the body. If you're willing and able, cutting a hole can be a great option, especially for a van. You can still clean the tank out if you think outside the box.
When I first got my van and it had fuel pump/gauge issues, I cut a hole in the floor using essentially the same technique. I changed the pump and fixed things up. Now, eight years later I have fuel pump issues. I'm so glad that all I need to do is remove some screws from my cover plate and check things out, then probably drop a new pump in. Working alone, lowering a fuel tank full of fuel is stupid and unnecessary most of the time. Vehicles should be designed for quick and easy service, especially when the solution is so obvious!
Now... go to the salvage yard, and cut a 14x14 hole in the same spot in a wreck.. bring home the piece and it will fit perfectly with a 1 inch overlap all around. Now you can silicone and screw the new piece over the hole. Be sure to NOT use pointy screws that are aimed at the gas tank!
hello, thanks for your video. if you use a ratchet extension for the safety ring, and then a small hammer with many small blows, the ring opens better without knocking off the noses, good luck, you certainly know a lot better than me. Yesterday I repaired the fuel gauge, the brass float had a hole in it and was full of petrol, so it couldn't get up. Incidentally, it is the same for all cars from 1960 Chrysler, Ford ect.
One thing is certain, when I do this job I will not be replacing the OEM pump with a cheap knockoff pump from Amazon. I will only go OEM again. My original pump currently has 250,000 miles on it. It's still going strong but I'll be changing it precautionarily. I wonder why Ford decided it wasn't a good idea to place an access panel over the tank? Update: I did the job on my 2005 E150 . I decided to use a pneumatic shear to cut the hole. Didn't want to risk burning down the van. Also installed an OEM Motorcraft pump which wasn't cheap. $407.00.
mine has transfer flow mobility alliance.. Gonna sell it because I dont even know if I can put a regular pump in here.. Thought of unscrewing (its square military like tank) but it looks rusted to hell
Great job but for safety I would always place a floor mat under floor on the gas tank to avoid a fire hazard . Ive seen leaky gas lines on top of tank. God bless.
@@rabidsquirrelgarage745 Hi do I find the part for 2000 E-250 V8 5.4 L? I see too many options, midship, after rear axle and rear tank. Nothing is given in the repair manual.
I have a 93 Ford E150 cargo van. 5.8 Liter with a mid-ship tank setup. I purchased the replacement fuel pump from Advanced Auto using Carquest part no. M3246777 -for 197.99; it was either that or purchase a fuel pump for 419.00 from Ford. I dropped the tank already. Disconnecting the incoming and return lines off of the old fuel pump assembly now which will free the tank from the van --it's a real pain but it will be worth it
Very helpful video! Thank you! After you get the fuel pump in you say you "cycle it a few times" to build up pressure, what do you mean when you say that? I'm about to try this on my e350 and that may be helpful to know!
Cycle it means, turn the key to on but don't start the engine. You should hear the fuel pump "prime". Do that about three times before trying to actually start the engine.
So you replaced the entire fuel pump and housing assembly, and not just the pump. I may have missed it, but is there a reason you didn't replace just the fuel pump itself? Doesn't seem like the rest was needed, but I could be wrong. I'm about to do this for mine, so your input is helpful!
6:48 Thank god I didn't hear you say that you're going back to the grinder. LOL. This was where I was going to stop watching. The 4th of July is only a couple of weeks off. Don't need to see too many bangs before then. Good vid though. My friend told me he did the same thing a few years ago and thought that I'd research this for mines, just in case.
The bolts holding that tank up were probably rusted to hell and prob would have had problems taking it down, this was prob the best way for him to go, it worked well, he got it running
Hole cutting dimensions: 3:09 - Measure 13 inches out from fuel filler hump, then 3:18 - draw a 12 inch X 12 inch square (ending at 3:51). Cut carefully with 4 inch diameter grinding wheel. See open square hole at 4:47. I had to remove two shelves above work area in my 2002 E250. As a safety precaution, I plan to slide under van and cover fuel pump, fuel lines and tank in areas below cutting before I start. Video was very helpful! Thanks for posting!
THANK YOU
You got lucky. Normally you would drop the fuel tank, but if doing it this way - #1 Disconnect the battery, #2 Release fuel pressure at the engine fuel rail service port and be sure to use a rag to soak up any gas, #3 Clean upper fuel tank and lines at the pump, #4 Remove fuel lines and disconnect electrical connector, #5 Now remove fuel pump hold down ring using a brass punch or ring removal tool to prevent sparks, #6 Reclean around pump assembly, air blow gun is best, with eye protection #7 Remove pump unit, again clean upper tank and replace with OEM pump assembly and new seal, #8 Reconnect all hoses and electrical, #9 REPLACE FUEL FILTER, #10 Reconnect battery, cycle key five times to pressurize system and check for leaks. If you have an extended crank, you may also need to test the fuel pressure regulator for leakage. A bad fuel pump check valve can also cause this problem, but a new pump assembly should fix this. Good luck, ASE Master Technician
Thank you do much for your video, it helped me so much, I did exactly and changed my pump with no problems. Thank you so much
Cutting a hole in the floor will make it easier for sure. But, if your tank has a lot of rust or other crud in there, not a good idea to put a new pump in a dirty tank. Otherwise you will be replacing the pump again sooner rather than later. Just drop the tank and do it right the first time, then you won't have to be cutting holes in your floor and what not.
Many sedans don't require the tank to be dropped and have access holes built into the body. If you're willing and able, cutting a hole can be a great option, especially for a van. You can still clean the tank out if you think outside the box.
When I first got my van and it had fuel pump/gauge issues, I cut a hole in the floor using essentially the same technique. I changed the pump and fixed things up. Now, eight years later I have fuel pump issues. I'm so glad that all I need to do is remove some screws from my cover plate and check things out, then probably drop a new pump in. Working alone, lowering a fuel tank full of fuel is stupid and unnecessary most of the time. Vehicles should be designed for quick and easy service, especially when the solution is so obvious!
It would be easier if to remove the fuel lines before taking the snap ring off.
With gloves😂😂
Now... go to the salvage yard, and cut a 14x14 hole in the same spot in a wreck.. bring home the piece and it will fit perfectly with a 1 inch overlap all around. Now you can silicone and screw the new piece over the hole. Be sure to NOT use pointy screws that are aimed at the gas tank!
hello, thanks for your video.
if you use a ratchet extension for the safety ring, and then a small hammer with many small blows, the ring opens better without knocking off the noses, good luck, you certainly know a lot better than me. Yesterday I repaired the fuel gauge, the brass float had a hole in it and was full of petrol, so it couldn't get up. Incidentally, it is the same for all cars from 1960 Chrysler, Ford ect.
This freaking helped me, NO END...BRUH
You should always wire brush and vacuum the top before removing the ring to keep out dirt
Good tip!
Watch out for any sparks ⚡️ from wire. Use plastic bristle
I was waiting for somebody to say that lol
How did you connect the pig tail?
Great job!
One thing is certain, when I do this job I will not be replacing the OEM pump with a cheap knockoff pump from Amazon.
I will only go OEM again. My original pump currently has 250,000 miles on it. It's still going strong but I'll be changing it precautionarily. I wonder why Ford decided it wasn't a good idea to place an access panel over the tank?
Update: I did the job on my 2005 E150 . I decided to use a pneumatic shear to cut the hole. Didn't want to risk burning down the van. Also installed an OEM Motorcraft pump which wasn't cheap. $407.00.
mine has transfer flow mobility alliance.. Gonna sell it because I dont even know if I can put a regular pump in here.. Thought of unscrewing (its square military like tank) but it looks rusted to hell
Great job but for safety I would always place a floor mat under floor on the gas tank to avoid a fire hazard . Ive seen leaky gas lines on top of tank. God bless.
I said you're welcome...
So whats the 3rd port for
Ik one is for supply one for return but is the third for evap? Generator?
This is a generic Ford pump. It was used on several vehicles. That is not used for this van.
@@rabidsquirrelgarage745 i have a rv that uses all 3
Unfortunately i dont know why they use the 3rd line
Do you think its for a generator?
Its for spraying Antifa and the BLM'ers when they start banging on your van when your doing nothing wrong.
Yes the 3rd is for generators for Rv’s.
What fuel pump did you use? Thinking of doing the same to my 93 e250 but am confused with all the different pumps autozone offers for the vehicle
I bought it on Amazon, These are the part numbers you can look for. They are all the same part. E2220M, MU2011, P75038M, FG0947, F6PZ-9H307CA
@@rabidsquirrelgarage745 Hi do I find the part for 2000 E-250 V8 5.4 L? I see too many options, midship, after rear axle and rear tank. Nothing is given in the repair manual.
I have a 93 Ford E150 cargo van. 5.8 Liter with a mid-ship tank setup. I purchased the replacement fuel pump from Advanced Auto using Carquest part no. M3246777 -for 197.99; it was either that or purchase a fuel pump for 419.00 from Ford. I dropped the tank already. Disconnecting the incoming and return lines off of the old fuel pump assembly now which will free the tank from the van --it's a real pain but it will be worth it
Very helpful video! Thank you! After you get the fuel pump in you say you "cycle it a few times" to build up pressure, what do you mean when you say that? I'm about to try this on my e350 and that may be helpful to know!
Cycle it means, turn the key to on but don't start the engine. You should hear the fuel pump "prime". Do that about three times before trying to actually start the engine.
did you tape the wires together?
I think is easier taking tanto down just did by myself just take gas out
Why stop at just 1/2 a can of rust pen. How sharp are those cut edges btw? Ouch!
i wish you would have showed the wireing, that is where i am stuck
What's the name of those tools you used to disconnect the hose? Also, how did you figure out which wires were which on the plug? Great video!
Fuel line disconnect tool: amzn.to/3e8N7zc
So you replaced the entire fuel pump and housing assembly, and not just the pump. I may have missed it, but is there a reason you didn't replace just the fuel pump itself? Doesn't seem like the rest was needed, but I could be wrong. I'm about to do this for mine, so your input is helpful!
They come with or without the sender. No sense in reusing old parts considering the labor to do it the right way.
@@carlosz7208 Got it done and replaced everything, not just the pump
6:48 Thank god I didn't hear you say that you're going back to the grinder. LOL. This was where I was going to stop watching. The 4th of July is only a couple of weeks off. Don't need to see too many bangs before then. Good vid though. My friend told me he did the same thing a few years ago and thought that I'd research this for mines, just in case.
How big is the access panel?
Hi what year is this project?
Thanks for the video. Just what I need to do.
Nice. What color did you match up to the harness?
Isn't it dangerous with sparks from cutting metal?
yea, I should have laid a tarp or something down but wasn't thinking.
@@rabidsquirrelgarage745 Im going to use
Double Head Sheet Metal Cutter this week to replace mine....hope it will work..no sparks!
@UCEoNPCLZZj8QcK3_UQDz5mQ do you have exact location of the pump? I want to make a circular cut just enough to get that pump out..
@@lonsomecrow smoking near would be more dangerous.
What About the hole????
Looks dangerous 2 me,lucky no fumes,( all those sparks,) is this a 13"x 13", that's why I like the old classic vans easy + safer+ cheaper!!!!!
next time spray some wd40 in the fuel line so that the springs can loosen up
I would use gloves 😂😂😂😂😂😂
can you help me load this sofa,
nope
The new pump looks incredibly cheap.
Do not do this people……. This is what hacks do. Besides the obvious safety issues……. Just do it right and stop with all this nonsense!
Whoever u are u are a jackass
The bolts holding that tank up were probably rusted to hell and prob would have had problems taking it down, this was prob the best way for him to go, it worked well, he got it running