Petamentor bottle cutter and first run
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- Just wanna say Hi and THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT WITH LIKES! ❤️
TUTORIAL: petamentor.com/
STL: petamentor.com/...
PARTS: petamentor.com/...
Our Forum: petamentor.com...
DIY PET filament from Bottles with DIY Petamentor machine 💪
SUBSCRIBE to all available tutorials and parts! 😈
You are a good man spreading good vibes! We need more people like you!
I will attempt to make this project and update my results
Thank you man!
Thanks. I printed some of the parts and will be printing more. Ordered some parts and am slowly building this machine. Hand pulled enough filament to prove it is worth building a tool to automate the process. Your description of the "tube" was very helpful. That's basically what my attempts look like and I thought I was doing something wrong.
thats sounds very good, youre on the good way. but remember, there can be some other obsticles, but we can solve it together. 👍
genius! recycling is for amateurs; reusing is for real pros. Thanks for sharing your knowledge brother
Thank you man 😉👍🍓🤪
Im building the bottle cutter today! i achieve some filament yesterday IT WERKS!!!!! IT WERKS!!!!!!!!!! im very happy !!!
GREAT👍🥳🥳🥳
now Im happy too 😉 thank you🥳
@@PETamentor ruclips.net/video/QuoKNZjr8_U/видео.html :)
ur the best guy on the internet i cant find more videos like this!
Im glad. Thank you. This really makes me happy🥳👌
thank you very much for your work and efforts.
I managed to complete your project.
I'm very happy that I have learned a lot about electricity and patience while building the machine.
I'm glad that I have gone this way, I have improved a lot. thank you!
Congrats what you reached, mate!
If you can use old filament roles in your machine, you'll be able to storage directly once produced.
Also seen that you can join the filament from 2 different bottles (same kind recommended) heating and using teflon tube to reach good enough joint. This way you can make longer filament allowing longer prints non stop 😉
Keep going!
Thank you Victor. Im making long prints without joined filament. Im using a runaway sensor to pause print and change filament...
I was expecting you to do it but that way you have to be there to do the replacement so just giving extra tip as can be useful some cases 😊
I understand and thank you so much! 👍👍👍🥳
Thanks bro!!! haha! nice to see you agaiN! you show us clearly how to make it :) thanks a million times again to share us all your tricks and knowledge its really appreciated! ! and after i have burn my fingers 45 times i begin to see how it work lolllllllllll because i haved struggle like a mad to figure it out but now its clear no more burn fingers lollll
🤦🏽thats a terrible video, but i make it on time, upload it five minutes before I go to work 😁.
@@PETamentor Nah its fine man its simple and straight to the point!! now all is clear for me and the most important burned fingers free from now! loll :)
So if I get it right, the diode is used to bypass the temp limit of the w1209. So setting P2 to 89C it actually goes to 200+ temp? Is that correct?
Hahahaha I Love the "Howww , the cutter is Free :)" , LOL , XtraLOL , seriously I will test your Idea.
Yea, Im like xixao 😁. Who gives a damn thing 😂
Hello friend, great work, I have my machine working. Have you thought about a set of gears to improve traction and engine speed? I recently found out that you can give color to transparent bottles with colored markers, the trick is to make the marker remain on the inside of the filament, so that printing generates a more uniform color. you have to try it.
Outstanding! SUBSCRIBED! Just to clarify:
Are you saying that the filament comes out as a hollow tube and you have to increase flow to 145% to compensate?
What temp are you printing the Benji-boat?
Then for the filament maker; you are using a drilled-out nozzle to a diameter of 1.75mm?
Anyway, thanks and hats-off to you for your presentation and excellent build-quality!
Hi, Thank you👍.
yes, filament has a hole inside. The strip is only bended, stretched and joined with heat. This is why you are using 210 degrees for filament making and 260 degrees for printing ( that is melting temp). Your new flowrate will depends only on your nozzle diameter (output filament diameter). No, I drilled 0.4mm with 1.5mm drill bit and wobbled in hole a little bit. Now only god knows what is my actual nozzle diameter. It could be about 1.6 1.7mm.
@@PETamentor Great, that answers my questions; thanks again!
Hello one question? What temperature to use for the plastic of the cola bottle?
And what temperature do you use for this type of filament in the 3D printer? owo
Hi, obviously 260 for printing, for making filament is about 215. I dont remember every temp for every bottle. The point is you dont have to know exact temp. You can see it during the filament production and set the temp after you see, if its food or not
@@PETamentor Thanks a lot owo
Its easy to get the right temp during the production. 👍
Nice.. do you have the STL files for the bottle cutter?
Sure, its on petamentor.com
Did you find a way to make the filament longer? Like using 2 bottles and then melt it together or something?
Hi, Im using a filament runaway sensor to automatically pause print on the end of filament. Them Im changing it and easily resuming 👍
@@PETamentor that's super smart. Thank you!
Can the cut be designed to be happening as the filament is pulled through?
Can a cut-starter be made that starts the cut without cutting the bottle bottom off first? Maybe the bottle lands upside down on a stick, gets punctured at the side wall and pulled through two blades...
Evolving to a machine that has bottle in, filament out, would allow one person to run a factory full of machines...
No, this is not possible for simple reason. there is too much torque on puller (due to pulling pet trip thru the nozzle) . Puller can handle it, but there is risk of failing motor joint in a long term. Filament factory is nice idea, but this is not possible because of other aspects. Could you imagine that you are making filament for sale? It must have some good parammeters. It means you have to enough bottles (the same) for consistent result. You can get about 7meters of strip from each bottle. For 1kg filament spool you need about 330meters of clean filament. It means about 47bottles. You have to join it somehow. this is a time and that nobody will pays you for "trash filament". This project is great for its simplycity. Next things are slicer settings for success prints. This is not way, how to make business, believe me😉My advice for your small factory is something like: crushing mil to male pet flakes from bottle and extrusion line. I saw a few DIY extruders for making filament on youtube. Hope it helps you 👍
try using a lighter and welding 2 bottle tapes together and other colors to make multi color filament can u make a video about how it works?
Sure 😁, but first of all I have to solve building dufficulties and make some fine tune. I want to continue with making videos about PET recycling a little bit.
I've ordered all the parts to make one.
Hehe more fans for the Petamentor thats great!
Great, its a lot of fun, if you have a big trash can with bottles in neighborhood 👌🤣
@@PETamentor loll im using my own bottle of sparkling water im not the kind of guy who play in the trash of others :)
we have big separating collectors for recyclation. its still open and you can grab as many as you want. 😁
@@PETamentor Ok i dont have to do it on my side i drink a lot of water ...and beer loll so i have enough bottle
Do you have a link to the hook file somewhere? the one that grabs the filament to the motor.
Sorry, have to design something. Its some found from old box with trash 😃
I wonder if it's possible to add a strand of monofilament fishing line or some type of thread as the "core" to produce some sort of composite filament.
😂 I have no idea what I can write here 😁. If joining filament can works in this way, I have no idea how to print it with. Thats a task for a NASA I think 😁✌️. Thank you for your interesting comment 👍😀
there's generally no reason to assume the different plastics will adhere to eachother, much less print well under the same conditions.
Any good solutions for joining the filament sections smoothly? To make bigger spools.
Hi, not yet. Nothing that make sense found😉
Does it smell much? Awesome idea! Great execution
Hi, it smells like you are printing with petg. Almost nothing to smell 😉. And thank you👍
Is using the razer better then using the bearing or are they both the same?
I dont know. But I read so many comments on the bearing cutters, that leavs me to stay off this solution.
@@PETamentor thx, also on the aluminum block why do they have 2 red wire and 2 white ones?
Hi, these two ones are for heating the nozzle (and heat block), the second ones (white) are from temp sensor for remoting the temp 😉
@@PETamentor Thx, have you had any trouble with the razer solution or has it been good for the most part?
No, its working well. It has some limitations, but nothing too bad.
grazie, complimenti, sei il numero uno, ciao
Hi Max, thank you 😁
Eres increíble, te felicito ,muchas gracias por este proyecto y los videos explicativos, soy tu nuevo fans, hace mucho quiero fabricar una maquina de reciclado y no me decía , tú me das el impulso para hacerlo porque veo que funciona, ya estaré construyendo esta maquina, mis saludos y respetos desde Argentina.
Thank you for your comment ♥️
hello i like your project.
Is it necessary to use XH B310?
Hi, thank you. No, you dont have to get thermometer, but its more than helpful. 👍
@@PETamentor thank you very much :) İ will do it immediately
Youre welcome bro 😉
What size of cut strip for the bottle
Its a variable. Please watch Petamentor 2 with integrated cutter. It can be setted to variable height
hi! I've built your mk1 machine. I tried to make it work but the plastic can't get through the nozzle. It gets out from the other side and I can't catch it out of the nozzle. What should I do?
Hi, I dont fully understand you. What is wxactlly happening? What about your nozzle diameter, temperature on the nozzle? Is your temp sensor attached well? Have you an external thermometer? Thank you💪
@@PETamentor hi sorry my english is not perfect loll i've build the pentamentor mk1 exactly like on the videos. my nozzle is at 210 degrees. when i try to engage de plastic in the nozzle, I can't. I can't catch the plastic coming out of the nozzle. and by dint of pushing it overflows at the entrance to the nozzle as well.
Ok, first of all, its always better to push a strip thru the nozzle when its cold. Then gently pull the strip when temperature starts to rise up. You will almost never push start of strip thru the hot nozzle.
If its melting, your temperature is too high.
@@PETamentor ok if I understood correctly, it must not have the same effect at the nozzle outlet as when printing, you have to heat just enough for the nozzle to compress and give shape to the plastic when passing, correct ?
Hi can you tell me how i set the W1209 Thermo Controller with numbers and paper for I do if you have photo send to me thanks
This is a fantastic project. I'm printing the parts and will make one for myself. Since I don't drink soda anymore, I'll find another way to source plastic bottles.
Question: How much filament were you able to get from 1 large bottle? Also, I have an idea. Since support materials can be thin, could it be possible to melt PLA support material and recycle it back into filament, especially if I cut it into thin ribbons?
Hi! Thank you so much.
I can make approximately about 7 metres from 2l bottle.
Your idea with recycling pla in this way is interesting, but I cant imagine that it will works. You have to try it by your own. Please let us know with your results. Im so curious 😀
@@PETamentor I'm willing to try once all my parts arrive in the mail. If cooling becomes an issue, I could always add a small fan and try to adjust for consistency.
free is for me, thank you for sharing
love ur work bro
I am currently trying to build this. What do you use to control the pull motor, is it a stepper motor, and does the w1209 get the hotend hot enough?
Hi, no its nit a stepper, its a DC 12v/7RPM. Yes w1209 is enough. More info on petamentor.com 🫡
Hello, I followed exactly what you do in the video and yet the temperature remains around 92°. Could you tell me how to change this? I'm stuck despite the answers I've seen.
Thank you in advance.
Hi, sorry that I'm late. So...
Push and hold left button, till it starts blinking. Then add higher temp. Make smaller steps and wait until the temp rise to something stable, then repeat. Please let me know, if it's working.
Good luck man, 💪🥳
I can't understand why branik is so popular with Czechs. :D Ondřej try Sibeeria (especially "Big maple tree"), it's expensive, but it's really good :) You can buy the cheapest one at Camp Base near hradčanská station.
😂😂😂 Hey you got me bro 😂😂😂
I gotta make this, though I want to mod it so it takes empty filament spools.
Hi, nice 😉
Hello and thanks for the video and all itens, I printed the stl files and now I test the circuit, but I cant go beyond 103-105C. I set the w1209 for 110C, with the diode I go to 103-105C, wiithout the diode I go to 90-92C. The w1209 goes to 31,8C and down to 27,2C, so it start again, it goes to 31,8C and down to 27,2C, its not exactly this, like 27,1, 27,4 and 31,9, 30,8. I change: diode, cables and thermistor, can you help me? Thanks xD
Hi, please go to petamentor.com into a forum section. If you will not find an aswer, please start mew topic. It will helps to others too. Thank you so much ❤️
\0/ I see my fault xD in 3:04 you set the w1209 to 69,7C o.o my w1209 was 28.0C hehehehe now I understand, the default of w1209 is 28.0C you need to set when you turn on the w1209 clicking and wait the 28.0 temp blink, so you set up or down xD thanks again ehhehhehehe
Even I’m facing the same problem. The temperature is not going beyond 110 C. Could you help me please as the nozzle is not getting heated up
what are the printing temperatures for PET for the bed and nozzle ? beside the 145 % flow any other settings you should take in consideration in the slicer ?
Hey any chance you found the bed heat? The nozzle can be anywhere between 250-260, it depends on how much material is there inside the tube, same case with flow rate its above 100, but exactly how depends on your use case.
For me if I want the part to stick on glass bed, so far 250 for nozzle and 85 for bed seems to work. But the nozzle oozes still and had to make the nozzle really close to bed.
I think I should mention that I have Bi metal heartbreak and the ptfe doesn't go all the way till heater block. I had made the upgrade since I will always use high heat and didnt want to replace the ptfe tube down the line.
@@dreudax3294 oh hi , thanks for your reply . it does seam to be tricky to dial in the settings for first layer adhesion for PET... so far i didn't had much luck with the first layer adhesion on glass bed ...the highest i went was 75 degrees celsius and the nozzle very close to the bed but some lines on the first layer curl up and they create bogus which luckily are flattened with the next layer but still ... i guess i will try to bump the bed temp to 85 for the first layer and see how it goes .... i have a PrintrBot Simple Metal Kit with DIY silicone pad heated bed under the original plate ... hope 85 is not too much ...
@@Gr8Success Hey, so I tried 90 and 260 and its much better. Just make sure that for the first layer, the speed is very low, I mean very low. For me in slicer settings my print speed is 50mm/s. Then when I I am printing, i make the speed reduce from the printer menu to 30( from 100). Then once the first layer is done you can bump the speed back up. The issue is only sticking to bed. Pete sticks fine to pete.
I have printed at 150mm/s and it prints fine. Just make sure first layer is very slow. Also overhangs without supports tends to drop a little more than I like, but i use stock ender 3 pro (part cooling fan is a bit higher), so your milage will vary.
Edit: I have heard putting glue stick on bed helps, but havent tried this.
That's Genial! Thaks a Lot for sharing. Gonna try too... Hugs!
Thank you ☺️
where the forum moved to? i mean on your site.
Hi, website was hacked. I had to build a new one, because backup of the database is not working 🤨. I'm really sorry for that, because there was a ton of the informations. Please join our fb community, this is our new forum with about 3k users. I hope it helps ❤️. Have nice day man 🥳😜
@@PETamentor auch, yeah thats loss... Ok will try to figure out the answer on fb.
So far the first issue I'm having is that my bottle cutter keeps cutting my strips before I can get very far.
Where do i find the parts for the cutter because i cant find them on your site
Its on STL page. 😉
good job, but in mean time I made cutter with rollers, is not so simple like your but work...now I thinking to try your...I not have luck to make it work with similar cutter what you made it...
thank you. In what SW are you trying to do it? Im a newbie to 3d printing and even modeling, but maybe I could help you.
@@PETamentor I using Thinkercad :-))), is the best one...I not modeling cutter before, I just use screws and washers and blades, I watch some other guys what they do here on youtube and I decide to make with rollers. This one ruclips.net/user/clipUgkx8xCtfhB66yFNQJpvYzZGeOr1BWPmXZ4W
hello sir.may i know your slicer setting in printing PET filament?thanks!
Hi, sure✌️.
Im using a Creality Slicer (based on Cura).
Using default 0.2 profile with only this changes:
Bed temp: 60C
Nozzle temp: 260C
Flowrate: 145% (depends on your exact nozzle diameter).
If im using the 0.4 nozzle..
Yeah i. Using cura too..
Im using 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2 mm layer height. Its a default in cura
@@PETamentor to summarize: 0.4 nozzle 0.2 layer height and Using default 0.2 profile with only this changes:
Bed temp: 60C
Nozzle temp: 260C
Flowrate: 145% ?
Awesome and thank you!!!!!!
Thank you man! ♥️
A small question here
What is the width of your botlle strip?
Hi, it depends on bottle thickness. Im using a 7mm strip in general.
@@PETamentor thanks for answering sir!
I've finaly make one
The only problem i have is that the filament extruded with a coca bottle is all white and not transparent , do you know why?
Hi, thats may be caused with too high temp, or bottle can be maked from recycled pet already. The percentage of used recyclate pet infulence your filament quality. Please visit the forum, try to ask others. This is better way. 😉
@@PETamentor thanks a lot !!
Wow, genius!
thank you, but No... its only small and simple 😁
felicidades ya voy hacer filamento a ver que tal sale::::::::::gracias por tus videos muy bien explicaados.
Hi, thank you 😉👍
how can i get 220 c ....the max is 145.... ihave adjust as the videos but i cant....
The next thing could be a temp sensor. If its not attached tight, measured temp is lower🙁
@@PETamentor but i try to make filament and its to hard to take out
So this is definetelly low tenperature. Can you please post your settings?
la tempertura que marca el termometro sube y baja no es estable, asi es o se debe mantener , si lo dejo en 200 sube hasta 210 y baja hasta 195... sabe alguien
Tek kelimeyle harika 👏👏👏👏💖💖💖
❤️🤪
крутая вещь. спасибо! бутылки в массы!!! сайт супер!!!!
Thank you!!!🥰
Hello,
I'm at a loss, please help me.
The pet tape is about 8 mm, but every time it passes through the nozzle, the whole string does not look good at first glance, but rather a more closed c. I tried to adjust the temperature and speed of the reel, but without effect.
I also tried a different tape size but the same result.
Please advise what it could be. thank you very much
------------------------------------
Dobrý den,
už si nevim rady prosím o radu.
Pásek z pet má cca 8 mm, ale pokaždé když projde tryskou není struna celistvá na první pohled vypadá dobře ale to takové uzavřenější céčko c. Zkoušel jsem upravit teplotu a rychlost navijáku a bez efektu.
Zkoušel jsem také jinou velikost pásku ale stejný výsledek.
Prosím o radu čím by to mohlo být. moc děkuji
Hi, filament have to be O shaped. If is in C shape, your strip may be too wide.
@@PETamentor the strip is 8mm but I will try a smaller one. I thought a bigger belt would be better, I'll let you know how it turned out
Thank you so much!
@@PETamentor i now use 6mm strip and still c shape
Is that C shape fully closed?
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Jak pokracujes? uz ti funguje ohrivani? a dekuji
super jednoduche a funkcni :)
Diky 👍
Waw wonderfull work bro , you have a link to put some money to help for you're inspiration , superbe , strong for you and thanks
Hi, Thank you so much. 😄👍
No need any money. I can make another lowcost projects from my own funds (because of participating on buyed parts). Nice to see you in this mood 🥳. Thank you ✌️
@@PETamentor all the honnor IS for me :)
Interesting shit bro
Thank you👍
grande pelado
Estou com problema de temperatura
Não consigo chegar a 205°
Alguém pode me ajudar
Turn it on, press left button, after it starts blinking, set the temperature abou 77C. 👍
@@PETamentor oi tentei mas 77 so vai 160
nao sei o que estou fazendo errado
pode me ajudar?
@@newfox4929 sure. This can be caused with two reasons. Your thermometer sensor is badly attached, or your w1209 is failing. What power supply are you using? (Volts and Amps)
@@PETamentor 12v
voce teria intagram? eu poderia mandar foto para eu explicar melhor
🔥💕👍
Cením braníček
To my všichni chudí vlastenci 😄
alguen i que sepa como ajustar para alcanzar los 220 c.....lo maximo segun los videos llega hasta 145c.....
Saludos, se soluciona en el controlador, aprietas una vez y vas subiendo la temperatura ( a mi me funciono 84),en el controlador aparecerá 84, pero en la pantalla aparecerá la temperatura real, la cual será aproximadamente de 210 grados
@@danielcampos5499 muchas gracias daniel, pero no te entendi.
dejo todosl los paramentros como viene en elvideo; y si no da mas de 84 pero ala hora de meter pet no derrite
@@danielcampos5499 el controlador ya lo ajuste a 84, y en la pantalla te refieres al al termomentro debe salir 210.... solo llega a salir 1... je no entiendo daniel aun ,tienes wapp o donde te puedo localizar para mas facil me hagas elfover de explicarme porfavor
perdon.el controlador ya ajuste a 84, y en la pantalla no da mas de 148 c ,es eso a lo que te refieres que debe marcar 200c o mas
@@joseestebansahaguian6557 en ese caso tendrías que revisar bien las conexiones y los circuitos de igual manera los materiales.
Fantástico gracias
thank you 😉