sirgallium you're not wrong. I wouldn't own a miata, let alone a boosted one that took 3rd in points this season with my local SCCA club and netted me rookie of the year.
I can't believe how much I've learned during this build. Cheers to one of the unfortunately few car channels that actively releases informative, well-edited videos that are still engaging.
brian hittepole The purpose of colored lines is to know which one is fuel in and fuel return. To me as long as it's a least a little useful it's not really rice.
You know, I was pissed you got rid of Broke and Boosted but looking back, it was the right decision. Your content has gotten a lot more cohesive and focused and I think that’s what your channel needed. Keep it up
Tbh I don't think it's Sema worthy, it's baller under the hood, but the actual body has dent scratches, and other shit. Only the engine itself is Sema worthy.
Love your 'Man Maths' Greg justifying more engine candy :-) I just used similar reasoning to order a BBR turbo kit for my NC . Great content and teaching .
That bit about raising fuel pressure on stock ecu is spot on. It can be done, but it won't work great. I had that kind of setup on my saab 900, along with bigger injectors. Ran rich and got worse gas mileage, but it could handle 25psi just fine. Not even close to an ideal solution though. If you wanted to get fancy, you could go with a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to help solve this but at this point it's easier to just get megasquirt.
Greg, I did a similar set up on previous engine (powerboost valve on oem setting). I was always advised by motorsport mechanics that the gauge is for set up. They all told me that once the engine is mapped etc.I should take it of and fit the plug as the car vibrations (especially on track) affect the gauge and can cause to fuel leaks.
Hope your doing a catch can setup video Greg, So many bulls**t threads. Not sure how it work's with the pcv valve side and the skunk manifold instead of a regular flat top.
Speed Obsession on a build like this you would do a simple catch can that vents to atmosphere. Two breather hoses into a baffled catch can with a filter on it. Cap off intake manifold.
Just thinking outloud here. I don't know much about the Radium fuel rail but wouldn't you want fuel to travel THROUGH the rail? Meaning you need an inlet on one end and an outlet on the other. If the inlet/outlet is on the same end, the injector on the far side may starve even though the rail is supposed to be pressurized. It may work for a low fuel pressure but maybe not for 15-20psi of boost.
You're not going to have enough room on your fender to put all of the vendor names for all the specialty parts you've put on your build. I can't wait to hear it crank for the first time! Oh, and without you, I would have NEVER attempted to turbo one of my Miatas. Thank you for everything you've done on this channel!
"The final tears shed from my wallet"... Laughed so hard at that. Who you think you're kidding man? Hahaha the next big purchase is just around the bend and you know it lol. Can't wait to see it fired up and making obnoxious vvt turbo noises man.
That gauge will be slightly off if your engine bay is hot. Liquid filled gauges are more prone to error due to temperature. The case of the gauge will pressurize and readings may be substantially off. Non filled gauge would have been a better choice imo Also the return line should be more free flowing than feed. If the return line has a restriction the FPR won't be able to do its job. Typically high hp builds have a return line larger than the feed to be able to adjust pressure down at idle despite the huge amounts of fuel flow.
That's the highest quality video you've done so far! Looks so crisp and lit well! I felt like you were using a 1/20 or lower shutter though? Try to use 24fps at 1/50 all the time (Unless slow motion or following cars/panning)
Another question for you I have a 1992 supercharged miata I’ve put 5 different fuel pumps all with different pressures, replaced a lot of the fuel system wiring, replaced purge valve, upper and lower fuel filters. I’m less than 200 hp on only like 7 lbs of boost the car it loses fuel in drift and in higher rpm. I’ve tried basically everything except new tank and new injectors. Manufacturing company says that it will run on stock injectors and fuel pump. Is the tank supposed to be pressurized because the problem only occurs after the car runs for a while and if I kill the engine while moving and start it back up it does fine for a while, also fuel will not pump at gas stations with handle all the way up I have to hold it barley open and it takes about 10 min to fill up the car don’t know if the tank should have that much pressure and if that has been part of the issue? Ideas for the fix? Is this a problem you hav had? Pls help I love my car and this has been like a 6 month issue I’ve been trying to figure out
Can you use the Fuel Labs fpr like one of your old fmu's with a vacuum line, like when boosting a car on stock fuel system, as long as you trick the stock ecu with the O2 signal modifier method? Bcuz I'm boosting my new ('95) miata * =) *, looking for a good.... but *mainly, cheap* fmu to use right now. Could you recommend to me another cheap but decent quality brand other than the vortech? I'm thinking about going with one that's like 80$ or so from Amazon or ebay but the chance that it arrives faulty is pretty big. Lol If you know of one that's about that price or less, that is known to get the job done, definitely send a link or name, I highly appreciate it! I'm hoping to have my turbo build mostly ordered within 2-3 weeks or so. I'm ganna upgrade to megasquirt eventually..... But I'm wanting to turbo the car a little before that, to get a taste of what it's like. So I really don't wanna break the bank too hard considering, I'd only be using the fmu temporarily. Until I get MS&injectors&pump. I know that it's not smart to cheap out on parts period but I just want to see how things are on 4-7lbs using the fmu for a few months before I save up for MS,injectors & so on. Thank you for the video man. I'm ganna continue watching the rest. =) Always a Like!
So just FYI I talked to Radium. They said they changed the design ONE YEAR ago and went from a 4 port design to a 3 port design. That means about half a year before you posted this video. Not sure if you got some new old stock or what but just FYI in case you want to update the video with a footnote that the 4 port design you reviewed is no longer available anywhere.
Mate you need to get ethanol rated lines.... Otherwise you will have more thsn just leaks.. Rather than braided you can use e85 rubber. Trust me its cheaper!
Hmm .. your Radium fuel rail has 4 input port .. 2 each end. The Radium one I just bought ( specific for miatas as well ) only have 3 port .. the side closer to the front of the engine doesn't have the top port.
Will this set up be pretty similar on a turbo 1.6 engine? I know the manifold and fuel would Be different so the routing of hoses would change no doubt
Why would you buy such a nice fuel rail with dual ports ON EACH END and then just block then off? For the small length of hose required and extra fitting, why would you not dual feed the rail just to ensure 100% it’s equalised?
The way you've set up the fuel pressure regulator you're feeding boost pressure into the vacuum reference port. This way your fuel pressure will automatically increase with boost. I don't think you actually need to increase your base fuel pressure.
〈msm/〉 Fuel pressure does raise with boost, you are correct. But, at base 40psi, at 1:1 rise rate, fuel pressure at 20psi boost will be 60psi. With 60psi base, it would be 80psi in boost. So raising base fp still increases hp max of the injectors.
According to Deutschwerks calculator your 1000cc Injectors should be good for about 420 whp @43.5 psi and a safe 80% duty cycle, 490 whp @ 60 psi and 580 whp @ 80 psi. So increasing the base fuel pressure doesn't seem necessary for me but I agree propably won't hurt either. Just be sure to not exceed the rated fuel pressure of your fuel lines.
Hey Greg.. I have an NB so this may be different but why do you have the regulator on the return from rail?? Wouldnt it make more sense to have the regulator “on the way” to the rail? That way its directly regulating the fuel entering the rail, rather than having it regulate the fuel returning to the tank? Again NB is different so just wondering.
lachypitt that's how a fuel pressure regulator works, it sends the unused pressure to the return line so the remaining pressure is at what you set it to. So it needs to be on the return.
I have a jcw Mini r53 and i couldnt imagine going any bigger than 400cc injectors. I make 260 with the jcw 380cc injectors. The car's just got a slight tune on it from the previous owner who tracked the car.
Hey I'm in the middle of doing the same swap and want to go with the same set as this for fuel. Found the rail and fpr at fab9 but cannot find any fittings sold individually . Where did you get them? Also I noticed on my stock fuel rail there is a damper . Did you eventually go with an after market damper ?
trevor sager No, the reg should keep the entire rail pressurized at all times. It especially helps that this rail has a higher volume than stock so it's easier to keep that pressure maintained.
I would be most concerned with fuel temperature on the far side injectors causing pre-detonation on pump gas at least that what I have gathered from dead head style fuel setups
Greg is going to get to the dyno and the only thing he's going to run into is engine block integrity. Here's hoping you put down some nasty numbers Greg.
I would love to see at what point you end up bottle necked at the stock fuel pressure. When you make a video on tuning it on the dyno you should try it out.
miata kid I know 1000's run around max safe duty cycle (~85%) on E85 at 450whp @ 60psi base, so I think it will be close shooting for 400 @ 43psi base. I probably won't purposely turn down the fuel pressure to max out the injectors though.
Hey Greg, did you ever have issues with flex fuel sensor after the FPR? Wondering if the lower pressure fuel could cause slight aeration and mess with readings
When I️ parked next to Greg’s bmw at miatas at MRLS and waited there for a cool minute but he never showed up... “check my snap to see where I’ll be” checks snap.... “last post 2 hrs ago” 💔
Have you ever had any issues with the inlet and return on the same side of the rail? I’m wanting to run it that same way but was worried about the (probably extremely unlikely) possibility of vapor locking the opposite end of the rail.
I'm looking for the fuel regulator set up for my nb and a little how to if possible or any info I haven't been able to find anything and it's the only thing left I need for my car to get it tuned properly
Would that FPR replace the stock unit for a 1.6 or does it work in line with it? I also found a nice fuel rail on MossMiata that is a good upgrade as well.
Craig PieTears is the only youtuber I don't watch at 1.5x speed
12 minutes of my day is worth it for my man Preg Geters
I'm imagining all the modded miatas that wouldn't exist if it wasn't for this channel
sirgallium you're not wrong. I wouldn't own a miata, let alone a boosted one that took 3rd in points this season with my local SCCA club and netted me rookie of the year.
mine wouldn't be turbo'd too... so thanks kraigg for that
who is kraigg? i thought his name was greg
Jesus Juice Official it is. It's a running joke.
I can't believe how much I've learned during this build. Cheers to one of the unfortunately few car channels that actively releases informative, well-edited videos that are still engaging.
"Fuel leaks are bad mmkay" lmao Greg. Also that rail is baller!!!
God damnit dude you're everywhere I swear to god
Literally was looking for this comment.
clakmurrick hehehe(((:
are you gona run a stock: body frame, dashboard, center console, hood, trunk lid, fenders, tail lights, gas tank and windshield? :3
(im thinkin he might go with a 14 gallon tank. would hate for the car to go thirsty or get dehydrated.)
just when you though greg was done, BAM more upgrades
-10 rice on not using colored braided hoses
brian hittepole The purpose of colored lines is to know which one is fuel in and fuel return. To me as long as it's a least a little useful it's not really rice.
You know, I was pissed you got rid of Broke and Boosted but looking back, it was the right decision. Your content has gotten a lot more cohesive and focused and I think that’s what your channel needed. Keep it up
Travis Hawkins broke and boosted is getting cooler tho ask me how I know 😭
This is a Sema worthy build I hope i see it there next year!
Tbh I don't think it's Sema worthy, it's baller under the hood, but the actual body has dent scratches, and other shit.
Only the engine itself is Sema worthy.
Part of me says stop upgrading and start the car, the other half sees a new upgrade video and I think "Greg Peters, you're a monster. "
Love your 'Man Maths' Greg justifying more engine candy :-)
I just used similar reasoning to order a BBR turbo kit for my NC .
Great content and teaching .
Extremely informative per usual! So excited to see this thing start!
That bit about raising fuel pressure on stock ecu is spot on. It can be done, but it won't work great. I had that kind of setup on my saab 900, along with bigger injectors.
Ran rich and got worse gas mileage, but it could handle 25psi just fine. Not even close to an ideal solution though. If you wanted to get fancy, you could go with a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to help solve this but at this point it's easier to just get megasquirt.
Greg, I did a similar set up on previous engine (powerboost valve on oem setting). I was always advised by motorsport mechanics that the gauge is for set up. They all told me that once the engine is mapped etc.I should take it of and fit the plug as the car vibrations (especially on track) affect the gauge and can cause to fuel leaks.
Which it did... i now run oem regulator with 10% bigger injector and programable ecu
Good to know!
"I balled out a little bit but it's gonna be awesome" I love it 😂😂😂
Hope your doing a catch can setup video Greg, So many bulls**t threads. Not sure how it work's with the pcv valve side and the skunk manifold instead of a regular flat top.
Speed Obsession on a build like this you would do a simple catch can that vents to atmosphere. Two breather hoses into a baffled catch can with a filter on it. Cap off intake manifold.
magnetic0314 What if you want to retain the PCV?
That's what I was wondering, Also I have seen so many setups and there has been issues with all of them.
TheCarPassionChannel then you would simply use an efficient catch can and route a return fitting via a pcv valve back to a vacuum port
Proper catch can video PLEASE!!!!
LOVE The FLAG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dude this is badass! So damn detailed makes me want a Miata! Ill for sure be using this video as a resource when I install my fuel return kit
Seeing this come together is so awesome! Mine is finally getting put together come December 16th! I just wish I lived closer haha!
Forget Miata forums and reddit. We have this guy to gives us the stock fuel pressure so we can mount this things on stock ECU. STREET STATUS ♥️
Just thinking outloud here. I don't know much about the Radium fuel rail but wouldn't you want fuel to travel THROUGH the rail? Meaning you need an inlet on one end and an outlet on the other. If the inlet/outlet is on the same end, the injector on the far side may starve even though the rail is supposed to be pressurized. It may work for a low fuel pressure but maybe not for 15-20psi of boost.
You're not going to have enough room on your fender to put all of the vendor names for all the specialty parts you've put on your build. I can't wait to hear it crank for the first time! Oh, and without you, I would have NEVER attempted to turbo one of my Miatas. Thank you for everything you've done on this channel!
"The final tears shed from my wallet"... Laughed so hard at that. Who you think you're kidding man? Hahaha the next big purchase is just around the bend and you know it lol. Can't wait to see it fired up and making obnoxious vvt turbo noises man.
That gauge will be slightly off if your engine bay is hot. Liquid filled gauges are more prone to error due to temperature. The case of the gauge will pressurize and readings may be substantially off. Non filled gauge would have been a better choice imo
Also the return line should be more free flowing than feed. If the return line has a restriction the FPR won't be able to do its job. Typically high hp builds have a return line larger than the feed to be able to adjust pressure down at idle despite the huge amounts of fuel flow.
I say it every time, you do work, the quality on that engine bay is epic!! 310 likes and 0 dislikes, find another channel like that... I'll wait...
Greg you really know how to do a big boy build! Gets better and better🔥🔥
That's the highest quality video you've done so far! Looks so crisp and lit well! I felt like you were using a 1/20 or lower shutter though? Try to use 24fps at 1/50 all the time (Unless slow motion or following cars/panning)
i am looking forward to a new updated canyon carving video when this is complete and ready ...lots of camera angles too that be awesome
mcgenius99 I have a VERY special canyon video planned.
Another question for you I have a 1992 supercharged miata I’ve put 5 different fuel pumps all with different pressures, replaced a lot of the fuel system wiring, replaced purge valve, upper and lower fuel filters. I’m less than 200 hp on only like 7 lbs of boost the car it loses fuel in drift and in higher rpm. I’ve tried basically everything except new tank and new injectors. Manufacturing company says that it will run on stock injectors and fuel pump. Is the tank supposed to be pressurized because the problem only occurs after the car runs for a while and if I kill the engine while moving and start it back up it does fine for a while, also fuel will not pump at gas stations with handle all the way up I have to hold it barley open and it takes about 10 min to fill up the car don’t know if the tank should have that much pressure and if that has been part of the issue? Ideas for the fix? Is this a problem you hav had? Pls help I love my car and this has been like a 6 month issue I’ve been trying to figure out
good work!! pressure regulator is one of the most important parts you should upgrade in hi/po build
Can you use the Fuel Labs fpr like one of your old fmu's with a vacuum line, like when boosting a car on stock fuel system, as long as you trick the stock ecu with the O2 signal modifier method? Bcuz I'm boosting my new ('95) miata * =) *, looking for a good.... but *mainly, cheap* fmu to use right now. Could you recommend to me another cheap but decent quality brand other than the vortech?
I'm thinking about going with one that's like 80$ or so from Amazon or ebay but the chance that it arrives faulty is pretty big. Lol If you know of one that's about that price or less, that is known to get the job done, definitely send a link or name, I highly appreciate it! I'm hoping to have my turbo build mostly ordered within 2-3 weeks or so.
I'm ganna upgrade to megasquirt eventually..... But I'm wanting to turbo the car a little before that, to get a taste of what it's like. So I really don't wanna break the bank too hard considering, I'd only be using the fmu temporarily. Until I get MS&injectors&pump.
I know that it's not smart to cheap out on parts period but I just want to see how things are on 4-7lbs using the fmu for a few months before I save up for MS,injectors & so on.
Thank you for the video man. I'm ganna continue watching the rest. =) Always a Like!
You're going off the rails...on a crazy train. I like it, looks really nice in there.
With the two "feed" ports on the regulator, you can place the regulator before the rail and just have one hose going to it for a cleaner install
So just FYI I talked to Radium. They said they changed the design ONE YEAR ago and went from a 4 port design to a 3 port design. That means about half a year before you posted this video. Not sure if you got some new old stock or what but just FYI in case you want to update the video with a footnote that the 4 port design you reviewed is no longer available anywhere.
That piece is really nice!!!!! I like the Fuel Labs FPR!
Fucking LOVE this build. Thanks for documenting everything!
Just a side note, are you gonna add a strut bar as well? I think it would be a nice touch with the engine.
I’ve learned so much from your videos keep up the awesome content!
Love radium tuning stuff.
Another superb video Greg!
Mate you need to get ethanol rated lines.... Otherwise you will have more thsn just leaks.. Rather than braided you can use e85 rubber. Trust me its cheaper!
I love how detail your videos are!!!!
Dude that's awesome! Thanks for doing this in such great detail. :)
When will we see this car starting? Been here since you hung those white sheets up in the garage for lighting.
That catch can and fuel regulator placement tho 😮😮😮
Lol remember when it was just a mild rebuild 😂 haha keep it up Greg!!
Freaking bad ass homie.....can't wait for startup
Hmm .. your Radium fuel rail has 4 input port .. 2 each end. The Radium one I just bought ( specific for miatas as well ) only have 3 port .. the side closer to the front of the engine doesn't have the top port.
Will this set up be pretty similar on a turbo 1.6 engine?
I know the manifold and fuel would
Be different so the routing of hoses would change no doubt
Thought you were officially sponsored by Mazda for a minute there.
Your rock. Good explanations. Looking forward to T minus 0 time.
Why would you buy such a nice fuel rail with dual ports ON EACH END and then just block then off? For the small length of hose required and extra fitting, why would you not dual feed the rail just to ensure 100% it’s equalised?
The way you've set up the fuel pressure regulator you're feeding boost pressure into the vacuum reference port. This way your fuel pressure will automatically increase with boost. I don't think you actually need to increase your base fuel pressure.
〈msm/〉 Fuel pressure does raise with boost, you are correct. But, at base 40psi, at 1:1 rise rate, fuel pressure at 20psi boost will be 60psi. With 60psi base, it would be 80psi in boost. So raising base fp still increases hp max of the injectors.
According to Deutschwerks calculator your 1000cc Injectors should be good for about 420 whp @43.5 psi and a safe 80% duty cycle, 490 whp @ 60 psi and 580 whp @ 80 psi. So increasing the base fuel pressure doesn't seem necessary for me but I agree propably won't hurt either. Just be sure to not exceed the rated fuel pressure of your fuel lines.
Hey Greg.. I have an NB so this may be different but why do you have the regulator on the return from rail?? Wouldnt it make more sense to have the regulator “on the way” to the rail? That way its directly regulating the fuel entering the rail, rather than having it regulate the fuel returning to the tank?
Again NB is different so just wondering.
lachypitt that's how a fuel pressure regulator works, it sends the unused pressure to the return line so the remaining pressure is at what you set it to. So it needs to be on the return.
I have a jcw Mini r53 and i couldnt imagine going any bigger than 400cc injectors. I make 260 with the jcw 380cc injectors. The car's just got a slight tune on it from the previous owner who tracked the car.
RedTeamWolf I know 1000's sound huge haha. It's just for the E85. To make your 260whp on E85 you'd have to go from a 380cc up to a 550cc or so.
When he turned the hex with a wrench! *insert bill nye mind blown gif*
Hey I'm in the middle of doing the same swap and want to go with the same set as this for fuel. Found the rail and fpr at fab9 but cannot find any fittings sold individually . Where did you get them? Also I noticed on my stock fuel rail there is a damper . Did you eventually go with an after market damper ?
IS it possible running the fuel in and return at the same end cause a lean condition on the farthest most cylinder at high rpm? Just thinking out loud
trevor sager No, the reg should keep the entire rail pressurized at all times. It especially helps that this rail has a higher volume than stock so it's easier to keep that pressure maintained.
I would be most concerned with fuel temperature on the far side injectors causing pre-detonation on pump gas at least that what I have gathered from dead head style fuel setups
±1 for feed and return on the same end giving me the uh-ohs. Maybe bring extra hose to the dyno just in case.
That is one sexy fuel rail!
Greg is going to get to the dyno and the only thing he's going to run into is engine block integrity. Here's hoping you put down some nasty numbers Greg.
seth alton lolllll. I want my only limiter to be the turbo itself. But only because I want to retain maximum spool speed.
Will you post a full engine mod list so someone can copy your setup?
Guss_Bruss Yep, near future
Did u change your hoses that goes from the tank to the hardline fuel rail for e85?
Are u still using the stock fuel filter still?
Thanks
"How trick is this?" lol heck yeah man
You are very descriptive with your videos I really appreciate that you the man
E85 on standard rubber line? Anticipate any issues with this? Everyone I talk to recommends teflon lined hose ($$)
So clean.
Love that banner.
Getting crowded in there
I added a FMU to my e30 and the injector o ring like got unseated from all the dank pressure but never mind that
I love your dank vids
I would love to see at what point you end up bottle necked at the stock fuel pressure. When you make a video on tuning it on the dyno you should try it out.
miata kid I know 1000's run around max safe duty cycle (~85%) on E85 at 450whp @ 60psi base, so I think it will be close shooting for 400 @ 43psi base. I probably won't purposely turn down the fuel pressure to max out the injectors though.
Hey Greg, did you ever have issues with flex fuel sensor after the FPR? Wondering if the lower pressure fuel could cause slight aeration and mess with readings
I never had any problems but it is commonly recommended to put the sensor before the FPR
When I️ parked next to Greg’s bmw at miatas at MRLS and waited there for a cool minute but he never showed up... “check my snap to see where I’ll be” checks snap.... “last post 2 hrs ago” 💔
Jesus Christ! Need some fittings with that thread sealant
Have you ever had any issues with the inlet and return on the same side of the rail? I’m wanting to run it that same way but was worried about the (probably extremely unlikely) possibility of vapor locking the opposite end of the rail.
I ended up switching it so it flows across the rail, I think it's better that way
@@TheCarPassionChannel I see, thanks
I wouldn't share the ecu vacuum/boost hose with anything other than a boost gauge...
Creg amd taylor link up miata masters 🙌❤
dont you need upgraded fuel lines for ethanol? you keep saying you're using standard fuel line but doesnt ethanol eat those lines away?
TheTechy2 I ran these lines for 20k+ on ethanol daily, never noticed any damage or wear when I pulled the old lines off.
You just don't want to submerge that hose inside the tank really
Ok cool
Great video as per always!
Wait..are you gonna run stock 6speed? I see another upgrade coming soon
Cregg, if you really made this with Windows Movie Maker, you're insane.
Guidosaur I'm a simple man what can I say
TheCarPassionChannel bro I know the vvt is expensive, I'll get you a Vegas movie Maker key lmao. It's a small step up but not Vegas pro level
So sick!! Can't wait!!
10:42 why that hose is so long and not straight? OCD life..
I'm looking for the fuel regulator set up for my nb and a little how to if possible or any info I haven't been able to find anything and it's the only thing left I need for my car to get it tuned properly
Wait, what?! Stock windshield, for real?
Would that FPR replace the stock unit for a 1.6 or does it work in line with it? I also found a nice fuel rail on MossMiata that is a good upgrade as well.
This replaces the factory FPR
Got to get a fuel cell tank there, safety first right. :)
Wait, what?!?
You're using stock fuel rail spacers? Oh c'mon Greg...
You need T-Bolt clamps for your cooling system
What are the white wheels you have on your Miata I look every where but can't find it anywhere
+Boss Khan Rota Grid Concave
so basically your new FPR is the same as an ISR FPR except it can run two fuel rails....
ITS YA BOI
Do you have a Fuel Pulse Dampener?
Wtf just loaded this shit no comments holy shit
Greg sei il meglio 💪
you wanna drift this, right? man that is gonna be so awsome seeing you slide 'round corners into walls and cry for days after. its gonna be great. /s
+MsMotron No intentions of this being a drift build. I might slide it a couple times, but my passion lies with canyon/autocross/track. 🙂
So good, must be a pain in the ass not having your car for so long.
We need more vids
teg city You're late
Wait your still gonna run that engine, thought you were gonna run an sr20
Dedge Maybe you're thinking of the wrong channel, lol
Gingium I think is planning on running a honda F20 I think?
I'd put money on you finding number 1 being starved a bit for fuel. I'd switch the feed to the front of the rail for peace of mind.
Yesssssss