Life is SO MUCH EASIER if you immediately put a zip tie around the cam chain and sprocket. I love the trick on how to get the sprocket back on with one bolt and turn the crank until the others line up. Getting the sprocket in place is usually a real challenge.
I’m doing this exact thing ! How can I stop the flywheel from spinning as I’m I’m doing the three bolts , I’m doing it with out the impact as I haven’t removed it from the frame
Did you have the dowels that go on the cylinder studs between the head and block ? Also did you have the rubber seals that go in between the head and block ?
This one didn’t have the dowels on it. I assumed the person prior lost them so we went ahead and made it work. We did have all the seals though still no leaks after almost a year of riding. Still has a nice tick though. Gonna ride it til it blows. Thanks for watching!!
This wouldn’t cause the smoke, usually just a leak and loss of compression and power. Smoke could be from bad piston rings or poor valve seals. Thanks for watching!
Almost any “125 pitbike gasket” google search should lead you in the right direction. Just depends on what all gasket you are looking for. Most of the Chinese engines have interchangeable gaskets as long as the engine is the same size. Try this link to get you started thanks for watching!! www.google.com/search?client=safari&hl=en-us&q=125cc+pit+bike+gasket&spell=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwix9cm-1tbvAhW8F1kFHVc8CTIQkeECKAB6BAgBEC8&biw=561&bih=1123
After I timed it every thing is right then when I spin the fly wheel it moves then when it’s nearly done one full turn it locks and doesn’t go any more.
Did you have this problem before the timing? I had one where the crankshaft was loose and hitting the case causing it to not spin. But it could be a bunch of other things as well.
I have a 50cc chinese atv and while its running it goes to start running really silent but its still running, and i can feel that almost no exhaust is coming out of the exhaust pipe. And it loses all the power but it keeps idleing. I also noticed that a lot of hot air comes out of the exhaust. But its not like pops of exhaust its a continuous flow of hot air. Pls help me
Good point here, could also be losing some kind of air in a gasket leak or even have a stuck open/not fully sealing valve. Have you tried taking it apart yet to check it out?
You are right I could have but I didn’t want to open the engine up more. Trade off a little harder to get it done versus taking more things apart (I like to install one screw in the cam sprocket and spin the crank to get the rest to fall in place) . Thanks for watching!!
The oil should go in the engine area not here in the top end. The oil fill up spot should have a silver twist off cap. Make sure to check level and drain old before adding new.
Hey. I believe my sons head gasket is shot on his 4 wheeler. So I decided to replace the entire head, and gasket. He has a Tao Tao 125. My question is. Do I need to remove the engine, or move it to the side, to replace the gasket, and head? Will it clear the frame without me having to remove it?
I have 2 of these bikes and they blow headgaskets after a few hrs of operation repeatedly, I've tried copper gasket spray tried re-torque after heating up engine first time and I'm just at a loss, I can do this job in like a hour and a half at this point but it's getting old. I've heard the headbolts are just too small from the factory but I don't of any better brand or fixes. Anyone had a similar experience?
I read before that the head studs on these chinese machines are low quality (along with almost everything else on them HAHA) and stretch pretty easy from the cylinder compression. You could try swapping out for a similar size Honda OEM or high quality replacement branded studs. This combined with a nice set of head stud nuts might help you out. Thanks for watching, let us know if you try this and it works.
@@dirtbikedadgarage4662 Alright, I've got an update. I bought a new set of head studs from this vmc chinese parts website and the new studs were notably thicker than the ones that were on there originally. They are still 6mm x1.0 thread where you screw them into the head but after that the whole length of the head bolt and the threads where the head nuts screw on are thicker, 7mm I'm guessing. These thicker head bolts were not compatible with the old dowel pins that originally came on it, they were too large to go through, but I had some new dowel pins that I ordered off ebay 10x14 mm that did the trick and fit well. The last thing I had to do to make it all work was drill out the 4 holes in top valve cover because they were also too small to accept the slightly bigger 7mm studs. After I did all this I torqued it down to 12 ft lbs and reinstalled the engine. Upon first start up there was a small drip of oil coming out between the head nut and the cover I drilled out on 1 of the 4 head bolts (not sure why it was just the one). I fixed this leak by taking off the one leaking head nut and cutting out a little circular gasket to go around the head stud right where it exits the cover, then I tightened the head nut back down to 12 lbs on the gasket i made and it sealed it up, i could've probably smeared some permatex around stud where it comes through the top cover and got the same result but a solid little gasket seemed like a cleaner way to do it. So as of this time it is running well, only time will tell if the thicker head bolts will stop the blown headgaskets, I'll post an update down the road. I have a question also which you may or may not know, when I originally took the top end off on both these little 110's there were a couple extra o rings that I'm not finding in the supposed "complete gasket kits" available on ebay. The missing orings i'm talking about actually set inside both the lower cylinder gasket and head gasket and gave an extra seal around the oil passage that runs through the biggest circular hole in the gaskets. They seem unneccessary so i'm wondering if they even needed to be in there in the first place, and thats why they aren't included in the "complete gasket kit". I reused the old ones in the bike I got running today but when I starting taking apart the second one this afternoon one of those orings were split in two, so i'm either going to have to try going without them or figure out where to get some. If you or anyone knows if its okay to leave these oil passage orings out thats what I need to know. Thanks
@@TYoung-up9ro glad to see it worked out for you I think you’d be better off trying to find those o-rings or you might end up with another leak somewhere else. Thanks again for watching!!
@@TYoung-up9ro i found the o ring kits online just gotta search around more. Or find a local hydraulic shop that sells stuff. They have orings of every size and fashion usually for a few bucks at most.
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Life is SO MUCH EASIER if you immediately put a zip tie around the cam chain and sprocket. I love the trick on how to get the sprocket back on with one bolt and turn the crank until the others line up. Getting the sprocket in place is usually a real challenge.
About to change my gasket using this method! Thanks so much! You’re a life saver
Awesome man glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
This video helped me out so much thank you.
Awesome man thanks for watching!!
Incredible job !! i did step by step and i am satisfied with the result, greetings from Guadalajara ✌
I’m doing this exact thing ! How can I stop the flywheel from spinning as I’m I’m doing the three bolts , I’m doing it with out the impact as I haven’t removed it from the frame
Can u link all the parts and where u got it from
👍👍👍🏍️🤠
Did you have the dowels that go on the cylinder studs between the head and block ? Also did you have the rubber seals that go in between the head and block ?
This one didn’t have the dowels on it. I assumed the person prior lost them so we went ahead and made it work. We did have all the seals though still no leaks after almost a year of riding. Still has a nice tick though. Gonna ride it til it blows. Thanks for watching!!
@@dirtbikedadgarage4662 Thanks for the reply. I bought a brand new top end and don’t have any dowels. Just wanted to see if it would run fine still.
what is the tool called that you used to check the intake and exhaust?
I just use a feeler gauge. Depending on where you come from or could be called a depth or thickness gauge. Thanks for watching.
feeler gauge
Does this blown head gasket cause the white smoke from the exhaust?
This wouldn’t cause the smoke, usually just a leak and loss of compression and power. Smoke could be from bad piston rings or poor valve seals. Thanks for watching!
i got the t to the top and the sprocket at the mark but after checking. it still doesn't line up what is my issue??
Not sure what you have going on...are you not able to get the cam sprocket back into place? Or is it something else?
I am having trouble finding the right gasket for my sons Apollo 9 blazer 125cc horizontal engine. Can any of you help?
Almost any “125 pitbike gasket” google search should lead you in the right direction. Just depends on what all gasket you are looking for. Most of the Chinese engines have interchangeable gaskets as long as the engine is the same size. Try this link to get you started thanks for watching!!
www.google.com/search?client=safari&hl=en-us&q=125cc+pit+bike+gasket&spell=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwix9cm-1tbvAhW8F1kFHVc8CTIQkeECKAB6BAgBEC8&biw=561&bih=1123
After I timed it every thing is right then when I spin the fly wheel it moves then when it’s nearly done one full turn it locks and doesn’t go any more.
Did you have this problem before the timing? I had one where the crankshaft was loose and hitting the case causing it to not spin. But it could be a bunch of other things as well.
I have a 50cc chinese atv and while its running it goes to start running really silent but its still running, and i can feel that almost no exhaust is coming out of the exhaust pipe. And it loses all the power but it keeps idleing. I also noticed that a lot of hot air comes out of the exhaust. But its not like pops of exhaust its a continuous flow of hot air. Pls help me
Sounds like your kill switch is shorting or not engaging
Good point here, could also be losing some kind of air in a gasket leak or even have a stuck open/not fully sealing valve. Have you tried taking it apart yet to check it out?
Why you do not open the chain tensioner first?
You are right I could have but I didn’t want to open the engine up more. Trade off a little harder to get it done versus taking more things apart (I like to install one screw in the cam sprocket and spin the crank to get the rest to fall in place) . Thanks for watching!!
Where does the oil go in
The oil should go in the engine area not here in the top end. The oil fill up spot should have a silver twist off cap. Make sure to check level and drain old before adding new.
👍 thank you
Hey. I believe my sons head gasket is shot on his 4 wheeler. So I decided to replace the entire head, and gasket. He has a Tao Tao 125. My question is. Do I need to remove the engine, or move it to the side, to replace the gasket, and head? Will it clear the frame without me having to remove it?
Are the atvs the same at the pit bikes?
@@seanf6968 I believe the engines are the same. The cylinder head is pointed toward the front of the frame.
@@bdbandbeb6712 where did you buy the parts ?
Amazon
@@bdbandbeb6712 thanks for the responses what did you type in?
Where you get the gaskets from
I just get them off eBay, but you could get a Honda 50 cc set. They are exactly the same thing. Thanks for watching!
Thanks brother god bless
I have 2 of these bikes and they blow headgaskets after a few hrs of operation repeatedly, I've tried copper gasket spray tried re-torque after heating up engine first time and I'm just at a loss, I can do this job in like a hour and a half at this point but it's getting old. I've heard the headbolts are just too small from the factory but I don't of any better brand or fixes. Anyone had a similar experience?
I read before that the head studs on these chinese machines are low quality (along with almost everything else on them HAHA) and stretch pretty easy from the cylinder compression. You could try swapping out for a similar size Honda OEM or high quality replacement branded studs. This combined with a nice set of head stud nuts might help you out. Thanks for watching, let us know if you try this and it works.
@@dirtbikedadgarage4662 Alright, I've got an update. I bought a new set of head studs from this vmc chinese parts website and the new studs were notably thicker than the ones that were on there originally. They are still 6mm x1.0 thread where you screw them into the head but after that the whole length of the head bolt and the threads where the head nuts screw on are thicker, 7mm I'm guessing. These thicker head bolts were not compatible with the old dowel pins that originally came on it, they were too large to go through, but I had some new dowel pins that I ordered off ebay 10x14 mm that did the trick and fit well. The last thing I had to do to make it all work was drill out the 4 holes in top valve cover because they were also too small to accept the slightly bigger 7mm studs. After I did all this I torqued it down to 12 ft lbs and reinstalled the engine. Upon first start up there was a small drip of oil coming out between the head nut and the cover I drilled out on 1 of the 4 head bolts (not sure why it was just the one). I fixed this leak by taking off the one leaking head nut and cutting out a little circular gasket to go around the head stud right where it exits the cover, then I tightened the head nut back down to 12 lbs on the gasket i made and it sealed it up, i could've probably smeared some permatex around stud where it comes through the top cover and got the same result but a solid little gasket seemed like a cleaner way to do it. So as of this time it is running well, only time will tell if the thicker head bolts will stop the blown headgaskets, I'll post an update down the road.
I have a question also which you may or may not know, when I originally took the top end off on both these little 110's there were a couple extra o rings that I'm not finding in the supposed "complete gasket kits" available on ebay. The missing orings i'm talking about actually set inside both the lower cylinder gasket and head gasket and gave an extra seal around the oil passage that runs through the biggest circular hole in the gaskets. They seem unneccessary so i'm wondering if they even needed to be in there in the first place, and thats why they aren't included in the "complete gasket kit". I reused the old ones in the bike I got running today but when I starting taking apart the second one this afternoon one of those orings were split in two, so i'm either going to have to try going without them or figure out where to get some. If you or anyone knows if its okay to leave these oil passage orings out thats what I need to know.
Thanks
@@TYoung-up9ro glad to see it worked out for you I think you’d be better off trying to find those o-rings or you might end up with another leak somewhere else. Thanks again for watching!!
@@TYoung-up9ro i found the o ring kits online just gotta search around more. Or find a local hydraulic shop that sells stuff. They have orings of every size and fashion usually for a few bucks at most.
next time clock the rings, install oil passage o rings, and set timing correctly
Did you also have a rubber gasket between the head and the block
Between the cylinder and engine block is a paper gasket. Between the head and cylinder is a rubberish gasket with a metal ring on it.
You set the valve lash before torquing the head? 🤦♂️
I don't see what difference it would make.
That is one weird headgasket mixed with red RTV silicon. Don't know which numbnut designed that h.gasket.