Great idea splitting the large pad up into a dozen small pads. I just moved from Niagara Falls Ont, to Rural Saskatchewan, i bought a bare parcel of land, and have started to build a homestead on it. And im all on my own, i dont know anyone for like a 2000 mile radius from me, and very independent anyway, and also come from a construction background being a plumber for 20 years. I need to build basically the same size garage/shop to store a couple cars, and all my tools, i was looking at a 20x30 tin car port to start, as its basically the cheapest option for the most amout of coverage, but i needed a cheap foundation to bolt it to, so the wind doesnt take it away. And i think this is going to be my solution basically step for step. I was unsure how i was going to tackle pouring a slab, or footings, in the middle of nowhere, all by my self. But ive found my answer. Hopefully my generator can power a cement mixer. Lol. Thanks for the inspiration!
Your concrete pad series has given me the outline and motivation for tackling a bunch of concrete projects on my property. One question on your process is how do you obtain your crushed rock and sand? Your own equipment from quarry to site each pour. Or do you get it delivered in bulk to your property and pull amounts for each pour? I'm thinking of doing the bulk delivered route (local quarry doesn't like doing small loads) but I'm interested in your process for moving the materials to the pour site
That's the way I would prefer to go about it. But since where I live that isn't an option I have found that if I order in bulk (10 ton/ 7-8yrd³) I can store it in a 8'x8' bin at 1yrd³ per 5" of height . 4 ft high should be adequate for 10tons and if I needed to go with bigger bins I would just add 8' to one of the 8' dimensions per 10 additional tons.
Looking good! Have you mentioned cost? I may have missed it. I'd love to know the cost of doing it like this verses getting say 2 half concrete trucks and doing every other flag over 2 pours
He mentioned in the first pad video it’ll be about 3K. Materials only not figuring time. Perhaps he can correct me if I’m wrong as he may have needed more materials.
I think I started following with pad 7 I believe so I’m a recent sub/watcher but this is inspiring watching one guy do this. I now have to wait and move before I can do this as the county I live in denied my building permit for a shop, but ultimately I’ll be building a 60x80 with 20x60 of one end being the “home” portion of it. I can afford the building to be built standalone but doing all cash I’ll end up doing the concrete work. I plan on doing 10x10s at time starting with the house portion first. I’ll probably invest in one of those Mudmixer machines for it as well. But like you, I have no help or at least none willing to without being paid lol so we do what we gotta. On the hose, why not just get ball style valve for the end? Then you can throttle it and have full flow and turn it off as well
@@maxwelljrdn happy to be an inspiration 👍🏻 sounds like you have a big project on your hands, good luck with it all! That ball style valve for the hose would work well, good suggestion. I make do with what I have usually, but might pick one of them up.
@@wittfam1191 you do not. Where the pads meet is a hard joint. Pretty much the same as pouring it all at once and then cutting joints. Good question tho.
I’ve really enjoyed this series. Jeff proves that hard work pays off. Started off with the basics and has been applying additional learned experience with each one. Would like to know the total cost once complete.
I have faith you can finish the rest in one go. Also.. how are the connecting edges holding up? do you see a lot of concrete chips where they come together?
Id be tempted to put in a toilet, sink, and shower drain before finishing. Stub it all out the side underground for a future date to trench it back over towards the house, given you have the elevation angle for it to run downhill towards house sewage
I may have missed the first, saw all the others, is there a benefit to mixing your own concrete vs the bags? Price, quality or something else? Looking to do my own as well and didn't get much info online as why to go this route l.
@@thisvsthat6930 a lot of it comes down to preference and how you can get materials to your location. I don’t really like working with a lot of bags, I prefer to use a shovel. The price for me is definitely cheaper than bags but that’s me making a 3000-4000 psi mix. If I were to make a 5000psi mix it would be pretty similar priced compared to bags. Probably the main reason, is I get to choose the rock going into the mix, which I think is extremely important.
Curious... Did you feel more fatigued lifting the water vs just using the hose? Lifting something you really didn't need to? Did you notice any difference in the pours consistency? Any changes in the workability of the concrete?
How come you didn’t use pre mixed quickcrete concrete? I’m thinking about doing a concrete pad but I was thinking about using several 80 pound bags of quickcrete. Would I still need a mixer and would it come out as nice?
Whether you need a mixer is about how big a slab you're doing. Using a chute would have helped the guy in the video get the concrete in there without the wheelbarrow. Premixed vs the raw ingredients is about cost. You can theoretically get it cheaper by mixing your own concrete. But, the least aggravating would be to order a concrete truck if there's a plant nearby. It can actually be cheaper than a bag mix depending on circumstances. I poured a pad and needed 23 80lb bags to get it done. Over 100 degrees outside. I used a wheelbarrow but I wish I had a mixer, though it would have been a one off job for me. I'm about to do over 700 square feet of concrete and with concrete delivered by truck it'll save an enormous amount of time. With a bag mix it'd be a huge number of bags
What's the reason for a metal building? Fast install? I ask because small metal sheds (like yours) are very cost effective, but when it comes to garage sized, they lose all of the cost savings. You can build a wood 2 car garage for less than $5k in materials if you do it yourself. Of course it is cool to see metal garages go up in 1 day. Can't wait to see this come together, keep up the good work!
@@spineblaZe fast install is one reason, not having to do the work is another. The building I’m looking at is a 20x30 with a man door and a 10ftx10ft garage door for under 10k. I hear you with the wood, but idk if I could even build the same building out of wood for less than 10k. Things add up so fast nowadays but honestly I haven’t done the math. Also not 100% set on the dimensions yet but that’s basically what I want. Thank you for watching and the interest!
@@jeffdeshong I've been watching from the first pour and your results(and I'm not a concrete guy) have been getting much better results. So at the end I hope you'll lay out the time and material cost.
Not knocking your diy. I’m assuming where you are permits aren’t required. Thus no footing. Metal building doesn’t require a footing for atleast the bearing points? I’m a GC, we’d never get away with that here. Crete is about $200yd here for 3500psi. That slab would be 4-4500 labor and mateiral with a 24” footing, rebar, and either mesh or fibered mudd here all in. Two days start to finish. Kudo’s for the effort.
@@Charlie-go6eb you can put a metal building right on the ground. Right ontop of gravel. Personally I wouldn’t do that. This slab can be used for whatever I desire. As stated it’s a restoration project. Tore out the old concrete and redoing it the correct way. Thanks for watching.
Great idea splitting the large pad up into a dozen small pads.
I just moved from Niagara Falls Ont, to Rural Saskatchewan, i bought a bare parcel of land, and have started to build a homestead on it. And im all on my own, i dont know anyone for like a 2000 mile radius from me, and very independent anyway, and also come from a construction background being a plumber for 20 years. I need to build basically the same size garage/shop to store a couple cars, and all my tools, i was looking at a 20x30 tin car port to start, as its basically the cheapest option for the most amout of coverage, but i needed a cheap foundation to bolt it to, so the wind doesnt take it away. And i think this is going to be my solution basically step for step. I was unsure how i was going to tackle pouring a slab, or footings, in the middle of nowhere, all by my self. But ive found my answer. Hopefully my generator can power a cement mixer. Lol.
Thanks for the inspiration!
@@DanoFSmith-yc9tg happy to help! Good luck on your project!
Holy crap, man! You're still going! Proud of you! You're probably a freakin pro by now! Good for you!
You seem like a pretty chill guy. I commend your hard work.
Making good progress 👍
Great job…. !! It’s coming along, saving some money… she may not be the prettiest, but she sure is sturdy.
Lookin' good! Finally getting to the point you can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Great job and thanks for taking us along. :)
Looking good?
I think it looks terrible. And a broom finish in a garage, ridiculous.
Nice job, its getting there my friend, Just an inspiration to get me to wanting to do my back patio
Good job brother.
Pretty inspiring project Jeff ! I definitely am interested in your metal building project if you video it. Thank you for taking the time to share. 👍👍
You should try 2 pads in one day! You’re so efficient now.
Your concrete pad series has given me the outline and motivation for tackling a bunch of concrete projects on my property.
One question on your process is how do you obtain your crushed rock and sand?
Your own equipment from quarry to site each pour.
Or do you get it delivered in bulk to your property and pull amounts for each pour?
I'm thinking of doing the bulk delivered route (local quarry doesn't like doing small loads) but I'm interested in your process for moving the materials to the pour site
@@nnordin384 thanks for watching! I get a ton at a time with my truck.
That's the way I would prefer to go about it.
But since where I live that isn't an option I have found that if I order in bulk (10 ton/ 7-8yrd³) I can store it in a 8'x8' bin at 1yrd³ per 5" of height . 4 ft high should be adequate for 10tons and if I needed to go with bigger bins I would just add 8' to one of the 8' dimensions per 10 additional tons.
Inspiring my friend. Gonna be great :) Very cool content.
Kicking ASS
So damn expensive having a crew do it at least 15-20 k
Thank you for the encouragement, how to's.....about to begin my own garage slab.....
Good job fam What was the cost
Looking good! Have you mentioned cost? I may have missed it. I'd love to know the cost of doing it like this verses getting say 2 half concrete trucks and doing every other flag over 2 pours
He mentioned in the first pad video it’ll be about 3K. Materials only not figuring time. Perhaps he can correct me if I’m wrong as he may have needed more materials.
Really good job. Love the dedication on your project. I'm looking to do the same, but smaller 16'x32'x5.5".
Nice !!
Awesome job.
@@siscokid2870 thank you!
Great progress…looks good.
I think I started following with pad 7 I believe so I’m a recent sub/watcher but this is inspiring watching one guy do this. I now have to wait and move before I can do this as the county I live in denied my building permit for a shop, but ultimately I’ll be building a 60x80 with 20x60 of one end being the “home” portion of it. I can afford the building to be built standalone but doing all cash I’ll end up doing the concrete work. I plan on doing 10x10s at time starting with the house portion first. I’ll probably invest in one of those Mudmixer machines for it as well. But like you, I have no help or at least none willing to without being paid lol so we do what we gotta.
On the hose, why not just get ball style valve for the end? Then you can throttle it and have full flow and turn it off as well
@@maxwelljrdn happy to be an inspiration 👍🏻 sounds like you have a big project on your hands, good luck with it all! That ball style valve for the hose would work well, good suggestion. I make do with what I have usually, but might pick one of them up.
Serious question, not a pro, but what about expansion? Do you need some expansion joint foam or rubber in between the pads?
@@wittfam1191 you do not. Where the pads meet is a hard joint. Pretty much the same as pouring it all at once and then cutting joints. Good question tho.
I’ve really enjoyed this series. Jeff proves that hard work pays off.
Started off with the basics and has been applying additional learned experience with each one.
Would like to know the total cost once complete.
Lookin great!
I have faith you can finish the rest in one go. Also.. how are the connecting edges holding up? do you see a lot of concrete chips where they come together?
@@jdmfh47 haven’t noticed any chips yet.
Id be tempted to put in a toilet, sink, and shower drain before finishing. Stub it all out the side underground for a future date to trench it back over towards the house, given you have the elevation angle for it to run downhill towards house sewage
Looks great. Is it much cheaper to mix all the sand and gravel vs ready mix bags? Thanks.
Thanks. And yes
Do you pick up your sand and gravel or do you have it delivered
@@billfarewell7214 I pick it up
I may have missed the first, saw all the others, is there a benefit to mixing your own concrete vs the bags? Price, quality or something else? Looking to do my own as well and didn't get much info online as why to go this route l.
@@thisvsthat6930 a lot of it comes down to preference and how you can get materials to your location. I don’t really like working with a lot of bags, I prefer to use a shovel. The price for me is definitely cheaper than bags but that’s me making a 3000-4000 psi mix. If I were to make a 5000psi mix it would be pretty similar priced compared to bags. Probably the main reason, is I get to choose the rock going into the mix, which I think is extremely important.
Nice job. I don’t know YT creation, does the channel monetize at 10k subscribers?
@@JimFinlayson thank you! 1k subs gets monetized
Great job. Did many similar pours in younger days.
Curious... Did you feel more fatigued lifting the water vs just using the hose? Lifting something you really didn't need to? Did you notice any difference in the pours consistency? Any changes in the workability of the concrete?
@@ABC-td4rg no more fatigue than normal. Didn’t notice any other major differences
How come you didn’t use pre mixed quickcrete concrete? I’m thinking about doing a concrete pad but I was thinking about using several 80 pound bags of quickcrete. Would I still need a mixer and would it come out as nice?
Whether you need a mixer is about how big a slab you're doing.
Using a chute would have helped the guy in the video get the concrete in there without the wheelbarrow.
Premixed vs the raw ingredients is about cost. You can theoretically get it cheaper by mixing your own concrete.
But, the least aggravating would be to order a concrete truck if there's a plant nearby. It can actually be cheaper than a bag mix depending on circumstances.
I poured a pad and needed 23 80lb bags to get it done. Over 100 degrees outside. I used a wheelbarrow but I wish I had a mixer, though it would have been a one off job for me.
I'm about to do over 700 square feet of concrete and with concrete delivered by truck it'll save an enormous amount of time. With a bag mix it'd be a huge number of bags
What's the reason for a metal building? Fast install? I ask because small metal sheds (like yours) are very cost effective, but when it comes to garage sized, they lose all of the cost savings. You can build a wood 2 car garage for less than $5k in materials if you do it yourself. Of course it is cool to see metal garages go up in 1 day. Can't wait to see this come together, keep up the good work!
@@spineblaZe fast install is one reason, not having to do the work is another. The building I’m looking at is a 20x30 with a man door and a 10ftx10ft garage door for under 10k. I hear you with the wood, but idk if I could even build the same building out of wood for less than 10k. Things add up so fast nowadays but honestly I haven’t done the math. Also not 100% set on the dimensions yet but that’s basically what I want. Thank you for watching and the interest!
Are you keeping a running total of cost and time?
@@mminlamesa1032 yes, not exact but very close
@@jeffdeshong I've been watching from the first pour and your results(and I'm not a concrete guy) have been getting much better results.
So at the end I hope you'll lay out the time and material cost.
Not knocking your diy. I’m assuming where you are permits aren’t required. Thus no footing. Metal building doesn’t require a footing for atleast the bearing points? I’m a GC, we’d never get away with that here. Crete is about $200yd here for 3500psi. That slab would be 4-4500 labor and mateiral with a 24” footing, rebar, and either mesh or fibered mudd here all in. Two days start to finish. Kudo’s for the effort.
@@Charlie-go6eb you can put a metal building right on the ground. Right ontop of gravel. Personally I wouldn’t do that. This slab can be used for whatever I desire. As stated it’s a restoration project. Tore out the old concrete and redoing it the correct way. Thanks for watching.