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Big job but you’ll save money if you don’t mind the labor just spread it over a week or so and you’ll have it man . Good job

Just stumbled over this video and had an idea while watching. Could you use a section of rain gutter and bypass the wheelbarrow all together like a cement truck. I don't know, would the rain gutter be wide enough for the idea to work, or something similar shape.

I been doing it for 42 yrs

Thats awesome. You seen people do it pad by pda before - my concern would only be does it hold at thos join points for heavier gear trucks/tractors.

To raise the PSI with the concrete you can add more cement, as for the slump start out with adding a little water at a time to the consistency you think you’ll need so that it’s not too watery and it won’t take long to dry and harden.

Two cents here...to guarantee pads will be all at the same elevation install a keyway where pads come together and rebar...make sure keyway is Tapered and oiled for easy stripping...🖖

:02 The pic of the slab would be a better thumbnail, you’ll get way more clicks

genuine question: if this is for a house, wouldn't the separate slabs move independently over time?

I’m not a know it all and not in any way criticizing I drove a mixer for twenty eight years and can’t tell you how many times home owners put mesh in and leave it on the bottom of the concrete. That won’t do one bit of good. You have to pull it up as you go so it’s in the middle of the concrete. It looks really good also I hope all of those small slabs don’t heave differently and leave you with an un even floor. Looks like your gonna have a ton of water flow off that hill and under the slab. Again good job and good luck!

Awesome Job, ignore those negative comments.

It's always going to be cheaper product wise to DIY, but what's your time worth to you? Gotta factor that in. I used to try and do everything myself too but in all honesty, I'd rather pay an expert that will do it right and offer me a warranty so I can go do things I enjoy instead. But nice job none the less

if you formed up the pad, placed WWF (Rebar), placed the stone and hired a crew to place concrete....you might save some money actually, cost of tools , mixer, headache, good job though. A five man crew could that that entire thing done in no time with one load or two of trucks, you might be loosing money actually.

That was a Ton of gravel?

this the same mechanism on most all seats with button adjusting?

There will always be fools who agree with the way you're doing this. In fact, you did not raise the mesh and inch or so into the crete, your joints will require you drill and insert rebar to tie the squares together (or they'lll settle independantly), you run the risk of cold joints between "batches". At least get another to mix while you screed. I could go on, but we all know it just ain't that expensive to buy truckloads of redimix concrete, delivered. So what's the purpose of this self-torture?

I bought the same mixer 20 years ago still cranking. 3 hints I always reload mixer before placing so always mixing, I use a bucket with watermark for consistent mix and you might want to pin some rebar between pads to lock them together.

Looks good bro

Just by looking at your finish it looks like you are putting too much water in your mix. The mix should be a little more stiffer. But great job keep up the great work!!

Do you have 2 run 93/91 octane or can it run fine on 87

We just did the same thing this weekend. A 4m (13') x 3m (10') x 10 cm (4") slab broken into 4 equal parts of 1m (3.3') x 3m (10'), with inter-connecting 1/2" rebar (by way of notches in the form that will "slide" into the next quarter as we get to pour it). The rebar was sitting on 3" dobies, some of which toppled over. The entire form is on builders plastic. For the first quarter (which was in most areas closer to 6" deep) we went through 10 mixers-full, each consisting of * 1 bag of 25kg 42.N portland cement * 22 shovels of 0-32 mm ballast (rock/sand mix) I think we got approximately the same result in similar weather conditions. Key difference maybe is that we used a vibrator (which aids in moving the mud around inside the form and reducing honeycombing, but I think also brings bleed water to the top maybe a bit too early). Used an aluminium screed bar. Used magnesium floats. I didn't get to the broom since we needed to get a move on as it was getting late, and also the available brooms in the EU are a bit crappy. For the 2nd quarter this weekend, I will try to run a wooden bullfloat that I made in between the screeding and floating. Hopefully I can get to the broom. Dunno how to post a pic anywhere on utube to show my results, but would like to. Good to see some other poor bastard giving this a go. Shout out to @AJDIYNetwork who also posted a nice vid on the same method.

When you erect the structure set your exterior walls so the broom finish slab is outside of the building with a man door and overhang to protect the walk in door from the elements. The corner of your building would basically be inset the size of the broom finished pad. Your post would still be at the corner and your end truss wound still sit on long side beam. When the metal goes on you will still cover the end truss all the way to the top corner leaving the pad covered. It’s hard to explain, but rather than having one 90 degree outside corner, you would have two 90 degree outside corners and one 90 degree inside corner making that pad an exterior pad with a man door entrance. It will look like you planned it that way all along. Mix seems a little wet to me. Does it have to be that wet due to the open time you need mixing in small batches? It’s not judgement, only a sincere question. The little bit of concrete I’ve done showed up on a mixer. Last question, what sack mix do you think it turned out to be? Five, six, etc.? Nice work!

These bikes are the BEST looking, and way too fast!!!!

Looks like it turned out good! You save a lot of money when you're willing to learn and put in some work.

Is it cheaper to buy bags of concrete or use a Portland mix. I ask because I am about to poor a slab in my barn. Videos like this are a huge help! Thank you

These sheds R crazy useful, but they don't need to b this hard to make, and who designed them Danny DiNiro. I don't know a human who can walk into one of these sheds without smashing their head on way in and way out. 😢

Is the 4 pin connector already in the column or do I need to buy a stalk that comes with it? Thanks so much for this. I just bought my truck five days ago and am planning on pulling a trailer all the way across the country doing it without cruise control was going to be a P in my A.!!

That's what I love about GM trucks I won't own nothing else

Awesome freaking job, bro! Just what I needed.

I enjoyed your previous video and have told the story to several people of this guy who was a big enough beast to take on a large pad by himself and do a decent job on it.

Nice job, I never thought about screeding as you go. That looks like a good idea.

Brush on a watered down cote ,on a damp surface first.

Plasterweld.

Dudeee your little rubber plug that plugs the cable adjuster u put it on the wrong side.

The only way that stuff is going to stay on is to prep the surface properly. You have to remove all of the loose materials you pound on that. It sounds hollow. It's because it separated down below. It's only as good as what it goes on.

How many bags did you use?

A chain works way better for winching out tree stumps .

was that just one bag?

Thanks Jeff. I'm checking videos on this Re-Cap. I have a low corner on a slap that I want to level and watching your video was helpful. Making it more soupy is the best route. thanks

How does it look after the winter??

Looking good!

try that in palm springs california

Love your video! Thank you for it!!! It has all the questions I have for a do it yourself guy!!!

Makw e sure your shit has 91 gas if you have 87 your shits going to knock

Had ni idea Brandon Frazier was doing this video

did you eyeball the water to get the consistency that you wanted?

Great job, Jeff! Still, as an engineer, what you really have is a concrete slab on grade without an exterior footer to protect against freeze and thaw cycles. It's OK, if you don't plan on putting a weight bearing structure on top of it. Doesn't mean it won't work in the short term but it'll be good for a non-inhabitable structure for a bit. Always love the updates! :)

I purchased the same mixer, but have not used it yet. My son needs to make a 10x10 concrete pad 3.5 inches thick for an entry way. And then next to it a 5x10 four inches thick for a well pressure tank and water heater room. We can’t get a cement truck close enough to the pad site, plus there is a $250 delivery fee and four yard minimum order. We decided to try and mix the concrete ourselves. You said it took you four hours to do that pad. I’m hoping my son and I can get his two pads done in four hours or less, with him mixing and me unloading the wheelbarrow and finishing the concrete. I’ve done small amounts of concrete mixing by hand in one of those plastic mixing tubs using a hoe. The most I’ve mixed at one time that way was ten bags. The tub was large enough to mix two 80 lb bags. I’m hoping that mixer makes things a lot easier. I appreciate your videos.

POV: you’re trying to get the last Pringle I’m commenting this because it’s a tradition

Just finished one and did the same thing . I decided next time I’m replacing all the screw with teks and built in washers I think it will cut down on half the time.

Does it not use a CC servo in the engine compartment to move the throttle cables?