For all those posting that I should have compared 20% implying they are the same, but two line uses 1.97m vs 2.17m for 20% so they aren’t the same. I also crushed several infills including 20% and found it wasn’t as strong since the lines are thinner and the arrangement of the infill lines didn’t hold as well so I didn’t show it along with other infills I tested. I was then surprised that two line at 10% so close to 25% due to line arrangement at 10% and the thinker stronger lines so I showed that surprising result. Your welcome to try it.
Hey I got kind of a problem. my printer he's printing lines too far apart. for this instance when I would do this infil, witg two lines, those two lines will be weak because they dont stik together wel
Please do double-line vs 20% so it gets clear to everybody. That would be a fair comparison. Or maybe triple-line vs 30%, that would be interesting too.
Had no idea you could do that to the infill pattern. *Very* useful. Thank you. I'm not surprised that it adds more strength than double the number of infill lines. Lamination can really add strength. Some rude commenters might criticize you for using the grid pattern, but it is probably the best pattern to demonstrate the benefit of doubling since it is the most likely to "rack over" under stress. This technique should work on most other patterns.
Well, there is always someone "smarter" out there that has enough time to roll around in the comments section on youtube yet doesn't have "enough time" to start a channel and show everyone how it's "really" done.
Nice tip. And your test was very simple but also perfect. I stumbled on the multiplier setting awhile ago. I basically did what you did only with 3 layers at 15% infill. I've been making a ton of wall hooks for people and wanted a way to reduce time and filament use but also be just as strong.
OK this is fantastic and practical information. I've been printing armour parts for a Mandalorian costume and learned a lot since I got my printers last year. I started off with building some costumes for my sons at crazy infill percentages like 30%, sometimes more. After experimenting I learned that 10% infill but with a 1mm to 2mm wall thickness actually resulted in a much stronger print than the default 0.8mm thickness at higher infill. That greater wall thickness also gives you lots of room for sanding down parts if you're after glossy smooth finishes after painting by the way. But this infill line multiplier too? This is great for those parts with greater surface area like chest pieces for example. Thanks again, Chuck.
Thank you Sir! I apologize as I'm new to this platform and learning how to interact! I truly appreciate your wisdom, time and information and admit you have become a God send! Happy Holidays!
Also important to remember that increasing the number of perimeters usually make prints stronger than just increasing the infill percentage. CNC Kitchen has several videos about strength of 3D prints, and his approach is very scientific.
Double lines at 10% is effectively 20% infill. I would have liked to see the comparison with standard 20% infill instead. But Brunel demonstrated that some strength comes from the walls and not the solidity, so i would also like to see a comparison with 2 walls and 10% infill.
this was a great idea. it does a good compromise, saving plastic & strenght too. thanks, I was nearly going to do a 50% infill just for a laptop angled stand but I think i'll go the 10% 2 lines. also, Cubic subdivision is very useful, too.
Assuming that you have a .4mm nozzle, setting the l line width to .5 or .56 can improve layer adhesion because it creates the extra width using squish. I tend to use this most on inner walls where it has both the latter below and the adjacent wall(s) to squish against.
so if I understand correctly, the double line infill uses two lines instead of one. You can then say that the amount of material that you use for the filling approximately doubles, so then you have not used 10%, but about 20% of the material. The open space between the lines may be approximately the same, but twice as much material used for the infill can of course not be called 10%. It is just an infill with more material but with a different pattern than the standard square infill. Funny, by the way, that using 10% volume as infill and then doubling the amount of infill (thus approximately doubling the volume of material) is simply called 10% infill. With Cura it is clearly not about the amount of volume that is filled but about the space between the infill structure.
I think a good video topic would be how to judge where/when you need strength in 3D prints. It seems to me like a lot of people think their print needs to be a lot stronger than it really does in a lot of cases.
Thanks for the video, I really appreciate your time and information. We just purchased an sender 3 to help my wife’s business (making our own bath bomb mould’s to use in stead of buying a ton of different ones) I have downloaded a few free STL files, and the infill in set to 80%! These price will only have 80-90lbs of pressure straight down on them from above. We have not used any printed molds yet, but that seems like a lot of infill for that little pressure. I will try one at 25% with a double wall to start, and see how it goes. Can’t complain, my wife bought a 3D printer and I get to play with it!!
I think another test is missing. Try double the outer shell with the standard 10%. I believe it will be the same results as the 20% with much less material
Similar results to increasing Parameters. Both at the same time would help. I use a .8 nozzle now because the parts I make are very Utilitarian. Great video!
Very informative video! Could you do another one with some others? Triangle, honeycomb and gyroid are allegedly much stronger. Single and double lines would be interesting. Perhaps one of those at 5% could match this one.
This is great, I'm playing around with some articulated prints because I find that the joints are a little weak sometimes. I don't know if it's because of walls, infill or even the filament itself. Could be a million reasons but this has given me something else to factor in so thank you so much😊
@@forreal7568 I've noticed that the pieces made out of Silk PLA break at the joints. Increasing line width from 0.4 to 0.6 has helped. I'd really like someone to do a video on strengthening the joints on articulated prints...Hint, Hint Chep 🙋🏽♀
Similar effect if you keep the first infill setting (1 line) but since force is exerted on the edges, something even more efficient would to increase the amount of walls you have on the outside of your print.
CNC Kitchen did an episode about varying the thickness of the infill; where they made it thickest by the walls and thinner at the center, to give it a lot more support. I would be interested in seeing how this compares.
Thanks for sharing this interesting experiment. I've been using Prusa Slicer for a couple of years, but I think it's time to watch a few of your Cura Tutorials and make the switch.
Why? It costs more time and material and it's only effective if your print needs to be stronger. Every shape needs its own design to make it stronger. This trick that Chuck shows us, is not a general setting to make parts stronger, it shows how in some cases, it can make a part stronger with less material. More strength would have been gained if he used 3 perimeters for the outer line and absolutely no infill at all. Yet that would only be true for this shape, and not a general solution. Also, that's not the point of this video.
Hmm. I just reprinted a small part to a clamp similar to yours. The first part failed so I thought I’d up the infill to 75%. Next I want to strengthen a print, I’ll try double line method. Thank You. Again
I've been upping my flow rate for infill sometimes to around 230% with like 5-20% infill and have really enjoyed the result. Definitely seems stronger and more robust but doesn't take much (if any) more time. Would be curious to see how that compares to a higher line count.
So you have used a 10% infill and added double lines to make 20% which in reality that is not 10% infill , it has now become 20% infill with the pattern of 10%. why not just make your line width thicker than what your standard width of the nozzle is or any other wall thickness. I think that would be a lot easier and you could still call your infill 10% and not I doubled the lines up and now its still 10%? just seems wrong to still call it 10% infill and not good for those just starting out in printing.
Thanks this gave me some more ideas how to make the print stronger. Still there are some wondering what should be the best option. I print my walls thicker to make stronger parts...and of course with more infill. I listened to a group of 3d printer and they told people to be better off with thicker wall then with more infill. I think they are right in one way because the layer will have more difficulty to separate under load
@@woodfinchcrafts7267 bees dont use hexagonal shapes for strength, they do it because it is the most efficient shape when it comes to the amount of volume (for honey) it can hold with the least amount of wax needed. Hexagons are not as strong as triangles. Visualize it, put 6 triangles together and you make a hexagonal-shaped perimeter, but with added benefit of inner lines for support. Now if you remove those inner lines from the triangles you'll get a natural hexagon, which no longer has support in the middle.
@@ItsAustinSea I disagree...look it up. Your example is also wrong...3mm squares made from 1mm material are stronger than a 1metre triangle made from 1mm material. Your example does the same..compares apples to oranges. Hexagons are strongest for the amount of material and maximum connectivity
@@garthnoakes3725 you can disagree all you want, facts are facts. You can crush hexagons from the side much easier than a triangle. There's a reason engineers use triangles for load-supporting structures like trusses
As long as is doable by your nozzel a bigger infill line width makes it even stronger, that's one of the reasons you can easily make stronger prints with bigger nozzles. To choose a correct infill pattern and infill orientation/rotation is also important depending on the print.
Great experiment. The 2 line slicing behavior isn't what I would have expected and wonder if you could get the same shape a lot faster. I'd like to see the comparison in time and plastic for adding more perimeters.
Hey Chep. A great companion video or follow up to this or support blocking video would be the gradual infill settings. Not sure if you've touched on this anyplace. I've been using it a lot lately for models and loving it. It's a lot quicker than support blocking and easy to setup. I think the community would benefit from exploring this setting. Would love to hear your thoughts.
I use 10-30% infill depending on the strength requirement. Since most of the things I make, that have to be strong, I always print with several outer walls and top/bottom layers. Much stronger than a very dense infill I find. In cura, I've set wall thickness to 2mm and top/bottom thickness to 1mm.
The infil with double lines simply looks like double the infil material. I figure you could probably set it to a 10 or 20 multiplier and effectively have 100% infil at the 10% infil setting.
Depends on your print. The one I'm working on now dropped from 74g to 72g. I think I rather have the 20% infill but I'm sure it makes sense for some prints.
Does anyone know what the default numbers were? This was great for testing, but I didn't realize the video jumped straight to the new settings without showing the originals. ?
@@FilamentFriday I don’t remember the figures exactly but they didn’t look equal to me (I think there was .4 difference when you crushed it) add to that measurement precision which can go both ways and you it you may be 5% off... not saying this is not useful but unless it is clearly equal or stronger, I don’t think you can draw that kind of conclusion. But still only my « scientific » opinion. Great work you’re doing by the way always a pleasure to watch your videos.
I see the point of the demonstration but there are several scientific issues I have with it. Grid pattern is best used to resist compression on the z axis only. Only having a bottom layer skews it as well. Have no layers or both.
Do any of the software packages have the capability of doing infill using a hexagon pattern? It is one of strongest shapes. Compare a hex cell to a square cell and you can probably make the hex cells bigger but still be stronger.
Hey Chuck, I love your Videos. In the near past I saw that in Cura there is now another infill method called "Cubic Subdivision". I would love to see how this infill will compare against the other methods.
The strength in the selected plane changes to +, but the highert density of the thin filling also affects the quality of the skin (no dents are visible) and bridges
For all those posting that I should have compared 20% implying they are the same, but two line uses 1.97m vs 2.17m for 20% so they aren’t the same.
I also crushed several infills including 20% and found it wasn’t as strong since the lines are thinner and the arrangement of the infill lines didn’t hold as well so I didn’t show it along with other infills I tested. I was then surprised that two line at 10% so close to 25% due to line arrangement at 10% and the thinker stronger lines so I showed that surprising result.
Your welcome to try it.
hey chep big fan here
i would really like if u could give me a profile for ender 3 v2
Hey I got kind of a problem.
my printer he's printing lines too far apart.
for this instance when I would do this infil, witg two lines, those two lines will be weak because they dont stik together wel
Why you dont use triangle pattern???
How does the 10% / 2-line compare to the 25% when force is applied with the infill rotated 45°?
Please do double-line vs 20% so it gets clear to everybody. That would be a fair comparison. Or maybe triple-line vs 30%, that would be interesting too.
This channel increases the usefulness of my Ender 3 v2 by about 300%
Ender 3 v2 is amazing. Do you use Jyers extensible UI?
@@hermangaviria690 I'll look into it. Cheers.
You helped me finally get my printer working after 2.5 years of having it! Thank you!
In slicer software was really smart it would tell you how strong any infill would be thus getting rid of the infill guesswork.
Yet again, you change the whole game for some of us. Thanks, Chuck, youre the best!
Your videos give me confidence and I haven't even received my printer yet. Thank you! You're an excellent teacher.
Had no idea you could do that to the infill pattern. *Very* useful. Thank you.
I'm not surprised that it adds more strength than double the number of infill lines. Lamination can really add strength.
Some rude commenters might criticize you for using the grid pattern, but it is probably the best pattern to demonstrate the benefit of doubling since it is the most likely to "rack over" under stress. This technique should work on most other patterns.
Well, there is always someone "smarter" out there that has enough time to roll around in the comments section on youtube yet doesn't have "enough time" to start a channel and show everyone how it's "really" done.
Thank you so much. My son wanted me to make him a space shuttle and it went from 1 day the 12 hours. Thank you 🙏🏽
Nice tip. And your test was very simple but also perfect. I stumbled on the multiplier setting awhile ago. I basically did what you did only with 3 layers at 15% infill. I've been making a ton of wall hooks for people and wanted a way to reduce time and filament use but also be just as strong.
Interesting, especially how you load tested them. Really simply done...Laurie
OK this is fantastic and practical information. I've been printing armour parts for a Mandalorian costume and learned a lot since I got my printers last year. I started off with building some costumes for my sons at crazy infill percentages like 30%, sometimes more. After experimenting I learned that 10% infill but with a 1mm to 2mm wall thickness actually resulted in a much stronger print than the default 0.8mm thickness at higher infill. That greater wall thickness also gives you lots of room for sanding down parts if you're after glossy smooth finishes after painting by the way.
But this infill line multiplier too? This is great for those parts with greater surface area like chest pieces for example.
Thanks again, Chuck.
Thank you Sir! I apologize as I'm new to this platform and learning how to interact! I truly appreciate your wisdom, time and information and admit you have become a God send! Happy Holidays!
Also important to remember that increasing the number of perimeters usually make prints stronger than just increasing the infill percentage. CNC Kitchen has several videos about strength of 3D prints, and his approach is very scientific.
I expected something I already knew how to do, but this is actually a genius tip I never knew about
Same
Thinking about it now, it makes total sense. But I have never thought to change that setting. Thanks!
It's not Friday until Filament Friday.
Its a good way to improve the strength, i do similar using more perimeters instead raising the infill percentage
Never knew this choice existed thanks Chuck
Double lines at 10% is effectively 20% infill. I would have liked to see the comparison with standard 20% infill instead. But Brunel demonstrated that some strength comes from the walls and not the solidity, so i would also like to see a comparison with 2 walls and 10% infill.
this was a great idea. it does a good compromise, saving plastic & strenght too. thanks, I was nearly going to do a 50% infill just for a laptop angled stand but I think i'll go the 10% 2 lines. also, Cubic subdivision is very useful, too.
excellent tip, never used it but will definitely give it a try :)
Liked the video and also straight to the point on what you're going to discuss and what you found. Loved that
Great !!! Thanks to your tricks, my prints have become beautifuls, solids and cheaper. Thanks a lot.
amazing video! I learned a lot of great tricks regarding 3D printing right here! Thanks again!
Giving it more outer walls is also a very good way to make it stronger
Definitely. Shell thickness is often the best strength. It also gives the print a better feel in the hand
I set the infill line width to .56 when printing outter at .4. Strong prints, fast.
Assuming that you have a .4mm nozzle, setting the l line width to .5 or .56 can improve layer adhesion because it creates the extra width using squish. I tend to use this most on inner walls where it has both the latter below and the adjacent wall(s) to squish against.
Very valuable insight. I'm in need of the strongest print for the least filament. Thank you for sharing!
I have been using this for a long while.
Not only does he have the best hair on RUclips, he has great Cura tips! Bravo! 😀
Fantastic! Thanks a lot for the tip, Chuck!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks! Very interesting result.
so if I understand correctly, the double line infill uses two lines instead of one.
You can then say that the amount of material that you use for the filling approximately doubles, so then you have not used 10%, but about 20% of the material. The open space between the lines may be approximately the same, but twice as much material used for the infill can of course not be called 10%.
It is just an infill with more material but with a different pattern than the standard square infill.
Funny, by the way, that using 10% volume as infill and then doubling the amount of infill (thus approximately doubling the volume of material) is simply called 10% infill. With Cura it is clearly not about the amount of volume that is filled but about the space between the infill structure.
Definitely going to try this, thanks.
I've only been 3d printing for a month and have started to look at Cura settings more. I will be trying the infill settings too.
I think a good video topic would be how to judge where/when you need strength in 3D prints.
It seems to me like a lot of people think their print needs to be a lot stronger than it really does in a lot of cases.
Thanks for the video, I really appreciate your time and information.
We just purchased an sender 3 to help my wife’s business (making our own bath bomb mould’s to use in stead of buying a ton of different ones) I have downloaded a few free STL files, and the infill in set to 80%! These price will only have 80-90lbs of pressure straight down on them from above. We have not used any printed molds yet, but that seems like a lot of infill for that little pressure. I will try one at 25% with a double wall to start, and see how it goes.
Can’t complain, my wife bought a 3D printer and I get to play with it!!
I think another test is missing. Try double the outer shell with the standard 10%. I believe it will be the same results as the 20% with much less material
Similar results to increasing Parameters. Both at the same time would help. I use a .8 nozzle now because the parts I make are very Utilitarian. Great video!
Very informative video! Could you do another one with some others? Triangle, honeycomb and gyroid are allegedly much stronger. Single and double lines would be interesting. Perhaps one of those at 5% could match this one.
This is great, I'm playing around with some articulated prints because I find that the joints are a little weak sometimes. I don't know if it's because of walls, infill or even the filament itself. Could be a million reasons but this has given me something else to factor in so thank you so much😊
Im having the same issues. Did you make any changes that made a difference?
@@forreal7568 I've noticed that the pieces made out of Silk PLA break at the joints. Increasing line width from 0.4 to 0.6 has helped. I'd really like someone to do a video on strengthening the joints on articulated prints...Hint, Hint Chep 🙋🏽♀
So I did 3 walls. 25% infill and 30% over lap infill. Is definitely stronger. I might go up to 50% on the over lap
Similar effect if you keep the first infill setting (1 line) but since force is exerted on the edges, something even more efficient would to increase the amount of walls you have on the outside of your print.
Great idea! Also, try just changing from the "Grid" pattern to "Lines", I think that should help quite a bit as well
CNC Kitchen did an episode about varying the thickness of the infill; where they made it thickest by the walls and thinner at the center, to give it a lot more support. I would be interested in seeing how this compares.
same idea in my mind... increase the infill flow with 40% and check results ... it will be much faster for sure
Gradient infill is an option now too, so it's not hard to do.
Thank you. I am about to buy my first printer and was curious about optimization. This channel is a God sent for my needs. Gained a sub there.
Great Video, i love filament Friday
Thanks for sharing this interesting experiment. I've been using Prusa Slicer for a couple of years, but I think it's time to watch a few of your Cura Tutorials and make the switch.
this is really helpful Chep, will be using it for most of my new prints
Why? It costs more time and material and it's only effective if your print needs to be stronger.
Every shape needs its own design to make it stronger. This trick that Chuck shows us, is not a general setting to make parts stronger, it shows how in some cases, it can make a part stronger with less material. More strength would have been gained if he used 3 perimeters for the outer line and absolutely no infill at all. Yet that would only be true for this shape, and not a general solution. Also, that's not the point of this video.
I thought this is about the number of outer walls (these I know of and usually default to 3 walls and 10% infill) but you've surprised me. Nice work!
also check out the alternate external wall option, it will add extra wall line on every other layer, pinching the infill in between the wall layers
You could simply print it with a different pattern but knowing this trick will surely come handy in some situations
Hmm. I just reprinted a small part to a clamp similar to yours. The first part failed so I thought I’d up the infill to 75%. Next I want to strengthen a print, I’ll try double line method. Thank You. Again
I've been upping my flow rate for infill sometimes to around 230% with like 5-20% infill and have really enjoyed the result. Definitely seems stronger and more robust but doesn't take much (if any) more time. Would be curious to see how that compares to a higher line count.
How about save time by doubling the infill line width so same infill line widths as double but done in one pass?
You are a gem. Will try with my fav cubic infill.
Excellent video, thanks for posting!
It also makes infill artifacts more apparent it seems
Holy crap I'm working on something right now that I could use this for. Thanks!
Chep your amazing,you are my 3d printer GOD.
Wow! This is an excellent experiment!
So you have used a 10% infill and added double lines to make 20% which in reality that is not 10% infill , it has now become 20% infill with the pattern of 10%. why not just make your line width thicker than what your standard width of the nozzle is or any other wall thickness. I think that would be a lot easier and you could still call your infill 10% and not I doubled the lines up and now its still 10%? just seems wrong to still call it 10% infill and not good for those just starting out in printing.
Thanks this gave me some more ideas how to make the print stronger. Still there are some wondering what should be the best option. I print my walls thicker to make stronger parts...and of course with more infill. I listened to a group of 3d printer and they told people to be better off with thicker wall then with more infill. I think they are right in one way because the layer will have more difficulty to separate under load
Great setting for the proper model!
Cool video. You could also use any triangle based infill setting and gain strength
First thing that should be done, yes. Or hexagonal - even bees know that
Supportive cubic is the bomb imo
@@woodfinchcrafts7267 bees dont use hexagonal shapes for strength, they do it because it is the most efficient shape when it comes to the amount of volume (for honey) it can hold with the least amount of wax needed. Hexagons are not as strong as triangles. Visualize it, put 6 triangles together and you make a hexagonal-shaped perimeter, but with added benefit of inner lines for support. Now if you remove those inner lines from the triangles you'll get a natural hexagon, which no longer has support in the middle.
@@ItsAustinSea I disagree...look it up. Your example is also wrong...3mm squares made from 1mm material are stronger than a 1metre triangle made from 1mm material. Your example does the same..compares apples to oranges. Hexagons are strongest for the amount of material and maximum connectivity
@@garthnoakes3725 you can disagree all you want, facts are facts. You can crush hexagons from the side much easier than a triangle. There's a reason engineers use triangles for load-supporting structures like trusses
As long as is doable by your nozzel a bigger infill line width makes it even stronger, that's one of the reasons you can easily make stronger prints with bigger nozzles. To choose a correct infill pattern and infill orientation/rotation is also important depending on the print.
Great experiment. The 2 line slicing behavior isn't what I would have expected and wonder if you could get the same shape a lot faster. I'd like to see the comparison in time and plastic for adding more perimeters.
Great research! Thank you!
Hey Chep. A great companion video or follow up to this or support blocking video would be the gradual infill settings. Not sure if you've touched on this anyplace. I've been using it a lot lately for models and loving it. It's a lot quicker than support blocking and easy to setup. I think the community would benefit from exploring this setting. Would love to hear your thoughts.
Covered it here: ruclips.net/video/9otlFHhmZkY/видео.html
I use 10-30% infill depending on the strength requirement. Since most of the things I make, that have to be strong, I always print with several outer walls and top/bottom layers. Much stronger than a very dense infill I find. In cura, I've set wall thickness to 2mm and top/bottom thickness to 1mm.
Dammit your tips are golden. Can you do this compared to cubic infill? I think that would be interesting.
Cool I will be trying this
Great Tip,,, Is there an option in Prusa which does this?
Very good info, thank you. 👍
Hi Chep how about different infill pattens and also add the wall count?
Yeah i was thinking about hexagonal infill patterns
Triangle. Strongest shape.
That’s for a future video
If I compare time plus meter versus other same percentage infill settings, the gyroid infill (prusa slicer) is the most effective.
Yea. It would be interesting to see how one of the stronger infill patterns like cubic hold up
The infil with double lines simply looks like double the infil material. I figure you could probably set it to a 10 or 20 multiplier and effectively have 100% infil at the 10% infil setting.
Depends on your print. The one I'm working on now dropped from 74g to 72g. I think I rather have the 20% infill but I'm sure it makes sense for some prints.
Amazing. Try it tomorrow.
Does anyone know what the default numbers were? This was great for testing, but I didn't realize the video jumped straight to the new settings without showing the originals. ?
Surely if it's doubling the line thickness, it's doubling the percentage infill?
That’s why I compared to 25% and was surprised at the results.
@@FilamentFriday well I think you should have compared it to 20% infill
Why? If it essentially matched 25% why step down?
@@FilamentFriday I don’t remember the figures exactly but they didn’t look equal to me (I think there was .4 difference when you crushed it) add to that measurement precision which can go both ways and you it you may be 5% off... not saying this is not useful but unless it is clearly equal or stronger, I don’t think you can draw that kind of conclusion. But still only my « scientific » opinion. Great work you’re doing by the way always a pleasure to watch your videos.
@@anisboubaker3806 Agreed.
Thank you for sharing that finding.. I find it very interesting 🤔
I see the point of the demonstration but there are several scientific issues I have with it. Grid pattern is best used to resist compression on the z axis only. Only having a bottom layer skews it as well. Have no layers or both.
That was a nice tip Chep!
Do any of the software packages have the capability of doing infill using a hexagon pattern? It is one of strongest shapes. Compare a hex cell to a square cell and you can probably make the hex cells bigger but still be stronger.
I believe it's called honeycomb pattern but gyroid is better anyway.
@@fenrir7969 Hexagon beats any other shape for speed and filament
Great experiment and results. I will use this. And that beard is a nice mod too. ;)
Super duper useful as usual
It be interesting to do a comparison video between 30 percent infill and 10 percent infill with a 3x multiplier
Awesome suggestion.. Thank-you sir..
Hey I have ender 3 V2 and stepper motors are getting really hot to touch is that normal or I should change some settings, please give me some advice
same, but i think its normal..
Thank you very much sir for uploading this awesome video, I learned new things.😀🙏🏻
You should test triangle infill. The triangle is much more robust.
I say test *all* the infill patterns, and then combine them as needed.
Is there such a function in Orca Slicer? Unfortunately, I can't find anything like that there.
Hey thanks Chuck! Great video!
Hey Chep, could you do one with 10% but 4 walls instead of infill lines? Curious if it's similar for us that don't use cura.
More perimeters are better than higher infill, CNC Kitchen already tested that.
Hey Chuck, I love your Videos. In the near past I saw that in Cura there is now another infill method called "Cubic Subdivision". I would love to see how this infill will compare against the other methods.
Nice find
The strength in the selected plane changes to +, but the highert density of the thin filling also affects the quality of the skin (no dents are visible) and bridges
Nice! I have to try this!
i have cura and checking a 3d model but whenever I change infill pattern and slice it, it doesn't preview the pattern, it just shows the default one
But clearly a 10% double line infill becomes a 20% total volume infill (same spacing between the grid lines as 10% single line).
Great tip Chep!
Cool! Thanks for the trick.