Cura Infill Setting for Stronger 3D Prints using Less Plastic
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Chuck shows you a setting in Cura that gives you Stronger 3D Prints using Less Plastic. Who would have thought a setting in the infill section could work so well?
He shows you how to use it and compares it to a higher infill print to see how much plastic it saves and how the relative strength compares in a simple test in this week's Filament Friday.
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For all those posting that I should have compared 20% implying they are the same, but two line uses 1.97m vs 2.17m for 20% so they aren’t the same.
I also crushed several infills including 20% and found it wasn’t as strong since the lines are thinner and the arrangement of the infill lines didn’t hold as well so I didn’t show it along with other infills I tested. I was then surprised that two line at 10% so close to 25% due to line arrangement at 10% and the thinker stronger lines so I showed that surprising result.
Your welcome to try it.
hey chep big fan here
i would really like if u could give me a profile for ender 3 v2
Hey I got kind of a problem.
my printer he's printing lines too far apart.
for this instance when I would do this infil, witg two lines, those two lines will be weak because they dont stik together wel
Why you dont use triangle pattern???
How does the 10% / 2-line compare to the 25% when force is applied with the infill rotated 45°?
Please do double-line vs 20% so it gets clear to everybody. That would be a fair comparison. Or maybe triple-line vs 30%, that would be interesting too.
This channel increases the usefulness of my Ender 3 v2 by about 300%
Ender 3 v2 is amazing. Do you use Jyers extensible UI?
@@hermangaviria690 I'll look into it. Cheers.
You helped me finally get my printer working after 2.5 years of having it! Thank you!
In slicer software was really smart it would tell you how strong any infill would be thus getting rid of the infill guesswork.
It's not Friday until Filament Friday.
Giving it more outer walls is also a very good way to make it stronger
Definitely. Shell thickness is often the best strength. It also gives the print a better feel in the hand
Double lines at 10% is effectively 20% infill. I would have liked to see the comparison with standard 20% infill instead. But Brunel demonstrated that some strength comes from the walls and not the solidity, so i would also like to see a comparison with 2 walls and 10% infill.
Also important to remember that increasing the number of perimeters usually make prints stronger than just increasing the infill percentage. CNC Kitchen has several videos about strength of 3D prints, and his approach is very scientific.
Yet again, you change the whole game for some of us. Thanks, Chuck, youre the best!
OK this is fantastic and practical information. I've been printing armour parts for a Mandalorian costume and learned a lot since I got my printers last year. I started off with building some costumes for my sons at crazy infill percentages like 30%, sometimes more. After experimenting I learned that 10% infill but with a 1mm to 2mm wall thickness actually resulted in a much stronger print than the default 0.8mm thickness at higher infill. That greater wall thickness also gives you lots of room for sanding down parts if you're after glossy smooth finishes after painting by the way.
But this infill line multiplier too? This is great for those parts with greater surface area like chest pieces for example.
Thanks again, Chuck.
excellent tip, never used it but will definitely give it a try :)
I expected something I already knew how to do, but this is actually a genius tip I never knew about
Same
Had no idea you could do that to the infill pattern. *Very* useful. Thank you.
I'm not surprised that it adds more strength than double the number of infill lines. Lamination can really add strength.
Some rude commenters might criticize you for using the grid pattern, but it is probably the best pattern to demonstrate the benefit of doubling since it is the most likely to "rack over" under stress. This technique should work on most other patterns.
Well, there is always someone "smarter" out there that has enough time to roll around in the comments section on youtube yet doesn't have "enough time" to start a channel and show everyone how it's "really" done.
I think a good video topic would be how to judge where/when you need strength in 3D prints.
It seems to me like a lot of people think their print needs to be a lot stronger than it really does in a lot of cases.
I set the infill line width to .56 when printing outter at .4. Strong prints, fast.
Assuming that you have a .4mm nozzle, setting the l line width to .5 or .56 can improve layer adhesion because it creates the extra width using squish. I tend to use this most on inner walls where it has both the latter below and the adjacent wall(s) to squish against.
Your videos give me confidence and I haven't even received my printer yet. Thank you! You're an excellent teacher.
so if I understand correctly, the double line infill uses two lines instead of one.
You can then say that the amount of material that you use for the filling approximately doubles, so then you have not used 10%, but about 20% of the material. The open space between the lines may be approximately the same, but twice as much material used for the infill can of course not be called 10%.
It is just an infill with more material but with a different pattern than the standard square infill.
Funny, by the way, that using 10% volume as infill and then doubling the amount of infill (thus approximately doubling the volume of material) is simply called 10% infill. With Cura it is clearly not about the amount of volume that is filled but about the space between the infill structure.
Thank you so much. My son wanted me to make him a space shuttle and it went from 1 day the 12 hours. Thank you 🙏🏽
Never knew this choice existed thanks Chuck
Interesting, especially how you load tested them. Really simply done...Laurie
Its a good way to improve the strength, i do similar using more perimeters instead raising the infill percentage
I have been using this for a long while.
Not only does he have the best hair on RUclips, he has great Cura tips! Bravo! 😀
You could simply print it with a different pattern but knowing this trick will surely come handy in some situations
Thinking about it now, it makes total sense. But I have never thought to change that setting. Thanks!
Nice tip. And your test was very simple but also perfect. I stumbled on the multiplier setting awhile ago. I basically did what you did only with 3 layers at 15% infill. I've been making a ton of wall hooks for people and wanted a way to reduce time and filament use but also be just as strong.
I think another test is missing. Try double the outer shell with the standard 10%. I believe it will be the same results as the 20% with much less material
Fantastic! Thanks a lot for the tip, Chuck!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Similar effect if you keep the first infill setting (1 line) but since force is exerted on the edges, something even more efficient would to increase the amount of walls you have on the outside of your print.
So you have used a 10% infill and added double lines to make 20% which in reality that is not 10% infill , it has now become 20% infill with the pattern of 10%. why not just make your line width thicker than what your standard width of the nozzle is or any other wall thickness. I think that would be a lot easier and you could still call your infill 10% and not I doubled the lines up and now its still 10%? just seems wrong to still call it 10% infill and not good for those just starting out in printing.
this was a great idea. it does a good compromise, saving plastic & strenght too. thanks, I was nearly going to do a 50% infill just for a laptop angled stand but I think i'll go the 10% 2 lines. also, Cubic subdivision is very useful, too.
Thank you Sir! I apologize as I'm new to this platform and learning how to interact! I truly appreciate your wisdom, time and information and admit you have become a God send! Happy Holidays!
Thanks! Very interesting result.
Great !!! Thanks to your tricks, my prints have become beautifuls, solids and cheaper. Thanks a lot.
I used this and it really works. I even set mine to a multiplier to 3 and it still was faster and used less plastic. 👍👍👍👍
I see the point of the demonstration but there are several scientific issues I have with it. Grid pattern is best used to resist compression on the z axis only. Only having a bottom layer skews it as well. Have no layers or both.
Very informative video! Could you do another one with some others? Triangle, honeycomb and gyroid are allegedly much stronger. Single and double lines would be interesting. Perhaps one of those at 5% could match this one.
Very valuable insight. I'm in need of the strongest print for the least filament. Thank you for sharing!
I've only been 3d printing for a month and have started to look at Cura settings more. I will be trying the infill settings too.
Great idea! Also, try just changing from the "Grid" pattern to "Lines", I think that should help quite a bit as well
It also makes infill artifacts more apparent it seems
CNC Kitchen did an episode about varying the thickness of the infill; where they made it thickest by the walls and thinner at the center, to give it a lot more support. I would be interested in seeing how this compares.
same idea in my mind... increase the infill flow with 40% and check results ... it will be much faster for sure
Gradient infill is an option now too, so it's not hard to do.
Chep your amazing,you are my 3d printer GOD.
Definitely going to try this, thanks.
Thanks for the video, I really appreciate your time and information.
We just purchased an sender 3 to help my wife’s business (making our own bath bomb mould’s to use in stead of buying a ton of different ones) I have downloaded a few free STL files, and the infill in set to 80%! These price will only have 80-90lbs of pressure straight down on them from above. We have not used any printed molds yet, but that seems like a lot of infill for that little pressure. I will try one at 25% with a double wall to start, and see how it goes.
Can’t complain, my wife bought a 3D printer and I get to play with it!!
Thank you. I am about to buy my first printer and was curious about optimization. This channel is a God sent for my needs. Gained a sub there.
Similar results to increasing Parameters. Both at the same time would help. I use a .8 nozzle now because the parts I make are very Utilitarian. Great video!
I thought this is about the number of outer walls (these I know of and usually default to 3 walls and 10% infill) but you've surprised me. Nice work!
I use 10-30% infill depending on the strength requirement. Since most of the things I make, that have to be strong, I always print with several outer walls and top/bottom layers. Much stronger than a very dense infill I find. In cura, I've set wall thickness to 2mm and top/bottom thickness to 1mm.
As long as is doable by your nozzel a bigger infill line width makes it even stronger, that's one of the reasons you can easily make stronger prints with bigger nozzles. To choose a correct infill pattern and infill orientation/rotation is also important depending on the print.
The infil with double lines simply looks like double the infil material. I figure you could probably set it to a 10 or 20 multiplier and effectively have 100% infil at the 10% infil setting.
amazing video! I learned a lot of great tricks regarding 3D printing right here! Thanks again!
also check out the alternate external wall option, it will add extra wall line on every other layer, pinching the infill in between the wall layers
This is great, I'm playing around with some articulated prints because I find that the joints are a little weak sometimes. I don't know if it's because of walls, infill or even the filament itself. Could be a million reasons but this has given me something else to factor in so thank you so much😊
Im having the same issues. Did you make any changes that made a difference?
@@forreal7568 I've noticed that the pieces made out of Silk PLA break at the joints. Increasing line width from 0.4 to 0.6 has helped. I'd really like someone to do a video on strengthening the joints on articulated prints...Hint, Hint Chep 🙋🏽♀
So I did 3 walls. 25% infill and 30% over lap infill. Is definitely stronger. I might go up to 50% on the over lap
It be interesting to do a comparison video between 30 percent infill and 10 percent infill with a 3x multiplier
Thanks for sharing this interesting experiment. I've been using Prusa Slicer for a couple of years, but I think it's time to watch a few of your Cura Tutorials and make the switch.
Great Video, i love filament Friday
Liked the video and also straight to the point on what you're going to discuss and what you found. Loved that
But clearly a 10% double line infill becomes a 20% total volume infill (same spacing between the grid lines as 10% single line).
I've been upping my flow rate for infill sometimes to around 230% with like 5-20% infill and have really enjoyed the result. Definitely seems stronger and more robust but doesn't take much (if any) more time. Would be curious to see how that compares to a higher line count.
this is really helpful Chep, will be using it for most of my new prints
Why? It costs more time and material and it's only effective if your print needs to be stronger.
Every shape needs its own design to make it stronger. This trick that Chuck shows us, is not a general setting to make parts stronger, it shows how in some cases, it can make a part stronger with less material. More strength would have been gained if he used 3 perimeters for the outer line and absolutely no infill at all. Yet that would only be true for this shape, and not a general solution. Also, that's not the point of this video.
Holy crap I'm working on something right now that I could use this for. Thanks!
Hmm. I just reprinted a small part to a clamp similar to yours. The first part failed so I thought I’d up the infill to 75%. Next I want to strengthen a print, I’ll try double line method. Thank You. Again
You should test triangle infill. The triangle is much more robust.
I say test *all* the infill patterns, and then combine them as needed.
Great experiment. The 2 line slicing behavior isn't what I would have expected and wonder if you could get the same shape a lot faster. I'd like to see the comparison in time and plastic for adding more perimeters.
Dammit your tips are golden. Can you do this compared to cubic infill? I think that would be interesting.
Cool video. You could also use any triangle based infill setting and gain strength
First thing that should be done, yes. Or hexagonal - even bees know that
Supportive cubic is the bomb imo
@@woodfinchcrafts7267 bees dont use hexagonal shapes for strength, they do it because it is the most efficient shape when it comes to the amount of volume (for honey) it can hold with the least amount of wax needed. Hexagons are not as strong as triangles. Visualize it, put 6 triangles together and you make a hexagonal-shaped perimeter, but with added benefit of inner lines for support. Now if you remove those inner lines from the triangles you'll get a natural hexagon, which no longer has support in the middle.
@@ItsAustinSea I disagree...look it up. Your example is also wrong...3mm squares made from 1mm material are stronger than a 1metre triangle made from 1mm material. Your example does the same..compares apples to oranges. Hexagons are strongest for the amount of material and maximum connectivity
@@garthnoakes3725 you can disagree all you want, facts are facts. You can crush hexagons from the side much easier than a triangle. There's a reason engineers use triangles for load-supporting structures like trusses
Hey Chep. A great companion video or follow up to this or support blocking video would be the gradual infill settings. Not sure if you've touched on this anyplace. I've been using it a lot lately for models and loving it. It's a lot quicker than support blocking and easy to setup. I think the community would benefit from exploring this setting. Would love to hear your thoughts.
Covered it here: ruclips.net/video/9otlFHhmZkY/видео.html
Depends on your print. The one I'm working on now dropped from 74g to 72g. I think I rather have the 20% infill but I'm sure it makes sense for some prints.
I'm gonna check this out! I've never used double line infill. Pretty slick 👍
Great setting for the proper model!
You are a gem. Will try with my fav cubic infill.
Cool I will be trying this
Thanks this gave me some more ideas how to make the print stronger. Still there are some wondering what should be the best option. I print my walls thicker to make stronger parts...and of course with more infill. I listened to a group of 3d printer and they told people to be better off with thicker wall then with more infill. I think they are right in one way because the layer will have more difficulty to separate under load
Wow! This is an excellent experiment!
Amazing. Try it tomorrow.
Thank you for sharing that finding.. I find it very interesting 🤔
Nice feature to know about, but the testing method and the comparisons are lacking. Also, as many have said before: 2x10%=20%
But it performed essentially equal to 25% so 2 lines not equal to 20%, there stronger. Try it.
Great research! Thank you!
The strength in the selected plane changes to +, but the highert density of the thin filling also affects the quality of the skin (no dents are visible) and bridges
You could have less infill with more walls for more stiffness but depends what you want
Huh, neat!
Thank you very much sir for uploading this awesome video, I learned new things.😀🙏🏻
Hey Chuck, I love your Videos. In the near past I saw that in Cura there is now another infill method called "Cubic Subdivision". I would love to see how this infill will compare against the other methods.
Very good info, thank you. 👍
I would love to see a breakdown of the infill layer thickness. It seems like you could turn that into good content
Excellent video, thanks for posting!
If you double the wall on 10% infill, it isn’t 10% infill anymore.
10% is the scale, so it's still 10% but you're just thickening the infill lines. But in this scenario it would be just as beneficial for you to just use the triangle pattern infill.
@@DJScopeSOFM I think infill percentage is measured as the the volume of infill inside the part. So if you’re adding more plastic inside, no matter which setting you use, it’s not really the same infill percentage anymore.
O that would mean the pattern size is different depending on the size of the print, but it isn't.
@@DJScopeSOFM you're not making any sense. Joel is 100% correct.
But the setting in Cura is still set to 10% so that is how it’s described.
Surely if it's doubling the line thickness, it's doubling the percentage infill?
That’s why I compared to 25% and was surprised at the results.
@@FilamentFriday well I think you should have compared it to 20% infill
Why? If it essentially matched 25% why step down?
@@FilamentFriday I don’t remember the figures exactly but they didn’t look equal to me (I think there was .4 difference when you crushed it) add to that measurement precision which can go both ways and you it you may be 5% off... not saying this is not useful but unless it is clearly equal or stronger, I don’t think you can draw that kind of conclusion. But still only my « scientific » opinion. Great work you’re doing by the way always a pleasure to watch your videos.
@@anisboubaker3806 Agreed.
That was a nice tip Chep!
Hey thanks Chuck! Great video!
10% infill with double the lines does it make 20%? Of course it is less plastic and time compared to 25%....just try a 20% infill with only one line (as usual) and you will see the same results as with your new solution...
The whole video would make sense if you would compare with 20% instead of 25% sorry
I wonder, would 10% infill with double lines weigh the same as just a 20% infill with 1 line? no point going with the data from Cura as we all know they have a "Shot In Dark" result when it comes to these things, its going to be a print and weigh solution for this one
That's the whole point of his video: using the 10% double line infill (effectively 20%) is just as strong as using 25% single line. He's trying to show relative strength and filament savings, not direct strength of equal filament amount. Your comparison would be equally useful to show how much strength you can achieve with equal amounts of filament, but that's not how he chose to compare.
You should create a system that changes between different infill patterns dynamically, since each infill pattern has its own properties.
Keep in mind that there are so freaking many different infill patterns. If it could also change infill line multiplier and infill orientation, and not just infill pattern... Whew, that would be really tough.
And of course, there are also things like Load-Dependent Infill (based on topology optimization), Gradient Infill (a hack by CNC Kitchen), that new "Lightning Infill" (which technically isn't actually infill), and of course... Texturing (which can really enhance stiffness when you need it).
How about save time by doubling the infill line width so same infill line widths as double but done in one pass?
Awesome suggestion.. Thank-you sir..
Nice find
It is easy to see that it all depends on the number of 3mm lines printed. 10% uses 3x3 single lines. 10% double lines 6x6 single lines. 25% use 9X9 single lines.
I set the print speed to infill to much faster than walls as the visible quality is much less important.
How about a comparison with 20% infill?
I do 1.5 mm walls, in cura it's 4 walls, that and 20 percent infill or more and they should be strong
same here ... also 3 or 4 bottom/top.. depend on model and load infill from 30% to 60%