INFILL pattern and SHELLS - How to get the maximum STRENGTH out of your 3D prints?
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- I tested the effect of infill pattern, infill density and shell thickness on the strength of 3D printed parts! There is too much superficial knowledge around, so I approached it a little more scientific.
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I love the scientific approach to testing! Definitely one of my favorite things about your videos.
Would you mind to share your figures/graphs? I feel a bit lazy.
It's the filament sellers that dislike 😂
Aww finally someone who's actually testing different infill patterns and densities!
At your service ;-)
Check out the geometry on this 3d printing from MIT: ruclips.net/video/VIcZdc42F0g/видео.html
@Dominic Cory Bot
@Cristiano Stefan comments
Cringe 👁️👄👁️
Wonderful analysis! It is refreshing to see a RUclips video with solid engineering/scientific methods and result presentations. Well done.
You are the man! I love your videos because you face the 3d print as a science, not like others that only print stupid things without any sense or objetive, good job Stefan! keep doing that amazing job!
Alfredo Antonio Martinez i
8:24 15% Full Honeycomb, 2 perimeters is stronger than 75% and 30% infills (same pattern, same perimeters) wow, that's impressive. I'm already using from 5% up to 20% only for really sturdy prints. Great video!
At this point I’m thinking Stefan has more hooks than Ikea’s curtains and upholstery section.
Just sub'd. I couldn't click fast enough when I saw the title to this video. Iv'e been hoping someone would do this very same test for a long time as I print almost exclusively end use mechanical or mounting parts. Very thorough, answered all my questions.
First time watcher and subbed right away. I love how you get right to the point and appreciate all the work you do in your tests. I just got into 3d printing and was messing around with shells a few days ago on a very small part but it had to be strong so i set shells to 1000, just to insure a solid part. To my surprise it worked great but took a long time. So this video taught me new things.
Dude, I am new to this hobby. Thank you. I needed to find this I’m glad I did. The settings in CURA offer so many options and variables. So much to learn. So little time.
Final Conclusion is INCREASE SHELLS AND DECREASE INFILL. How the hell unlike this video? This is awesome.
This is not universally true. Very dependent on loading case.
What are shells, please?
over time you also have to account for cats jumping up on the keyboard and clicking dislike on a video, 1 out of 100.
The ones who would dislike the video are working for big-infill. That industry has a lot to lose because of this video. They want to silence the truth! Also, as stated above, cats.
@@Amipotsophspond ONE SURE FIrE WAY TO (oops caps lock) avoid the problemiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii990kkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk ( ?!@@#! cat) , Get a dog!
Your systematic approach is really refreshing. Nice work!
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to do and share this experiments! The results are in some cases quite unexpected. Thank you again!
Awesome info brother! I see so many people cranking the infill up to make stronger parts when they should just increase the wall thickness a tiny bit
I always have to think about bird bones in this context, mostly hollow with "struts" on the inside. Maybe we need bird bone infill.
Google for lattice optimization. e.g. Autodesk is working on these things, but they are not optimally usable in FDM at the moment.
If you do a topology optimization simulation you will get a result similar to the bird bones structure
Concentric seems to do this depending on your density
RUclips at it's best!!!
thank you a lot, this is what i am looking for,
i hope you can do more video about the filament's use and testing the object not just in traction but also in torsion and fatigue
Man I love your videos you really go in depth at what your explaining, Keep up the good work!!
Thanks - this was an excellent analysis! I would suggest trying "Stars" in Slic3r. It's my current favourite infill as it's strong in many directions, and also prints quickly as there are no direction changes mid-pattern - the direction changes only occur at the perimeter.
Got into 3d printing not too long ago. Your channel has helped me a lot! Thank you. Subscribed! :)
Being a mechanical engineer by profession I can say that this is what moves 3d printing forward. Thanks!
I need to make high strength, light weight parts and this video definetly got me thinking about my design. Especially the possibility to make dual walls at high stress points to add strength while keeping the weight down. More of this please :-)
I know this might struck your ego and sense of self entitlement, but "being a mechanical engineer by profession"(whatever that's supposed to mean) doesn't give you any extra capability to evaluate what moves 3d printing forward. Any 3D printing hobbyist can do exactly the same, but you had to come to the comments writing something to make yourself feel special, I understand, some people are insecure like that 🙃
@AlexandreG And you seem to enjoy interpreting comments ungenerously. Most money spent on 3D printing is by industry, not hobbyists. Mechanical engineers play a significant role in choosing printers and designing parts. Suggesting the perspective of a mechanical engineer is no different than the perspective of a hobbyist is silly. Both perspectives have their value. While you may not like @Meglification 's tone, devaluing their perspective to justify calling them insecure is excessive. And an unreasonable reach.
@@ericmanternach2340 As you might have noticed, I didn't say I'm a mechanical engineer to give value to what I said but apparently the guy is right, some people will just take your word for what it is if you take crtedentials, thanks for showing me. A year ago, me as a mechanical engineer boughta a 3D printer and it was my hobbyist friends who introduced me to it in many ways I didn't even think about, they knew much better than me. And surely they know just as much as me what might move 3D printing forward. Me being a mechanical engineer doesn't make me more entitled to what moves 3D printing forward compared to a person without a degree. Hope you were clarified
@@AlexandreG Never seen someone feel so attacked by a random comment on the long story of the whole internet untill you.
@@ziberzero that's really cool 🤓
Awesome video! Just the right amount of info to deal with real pragmatic situations.
Using Cura, I have had really good results with the 3D Cross infill. A majority of my parts in standard temper PLA are as good as they ever need to be with 30% infill and 3-4 walls with this infill (depending on Application). My personal thoughts, your applying to a market that is highly interested in "tech" if their curious about comparative destructive testing, bring on the "tech"!! Love it!
Using all of your tests, you should combine your findings and print a set of test hooks. I would love to see how strong a hook you could make
all roads lead to a solid hook lol
Very great work. I didn't know your channel. This video was the perfect answer to my question about infill.
Thanks a lot
Great video. I personally use thicker walls to increase the strength of my prints and use infill as little as possible to save material.
This appears excellent! Cannot simply wait to see the same as this. Great job.
I came. I saw, I subscribed.
Did the opposite 😂😂😂😂😂
I saw, I came, I subscribed
I suppose the wiggle infill pattern might make sense for some elastic materials, for parts intended to bend, compress or stretch significantly. On one hand it looks like it offers support without adding much rigidity to the part, and on the other hand it has no obvious points of failure, instead looking like it would disperse forces over a larger area.
Excellent and clearly time consuming tests. Your work is appreciated! Thank you!
Another awesome video from you. I really like the content and the quality of your work. I will try to help you keep growing. You deserve many subscribers. Cheers Roy
This guy is awesome, I agree!!!
I'm new to 3D printing. Great video and methodology. I subscribed to your channel.
Thanks, Im going into business using several 3D Printers and I need all this tips I can get on how to increase speed to decrease print times. If I can print faster with less quality, then increase the strength back up with by increasing perimeters then Im willing to try!
Very insightful video! Thanks for putting in the time effort and material into this thorough investigation. A look into the cura settings would be very interesting to see as well.
Wow that was impressive!!! If possible, how about you test the strength of the specimen when using different nozzle diameters?
Excellent work Stefan! You have a new subscriber 😀👍
I very appreciate ALL the graphics and explanations.
---I will use honeycomb as a default by now.
---I will put the emphasis on perimeter over the infill.
Thank you for spending time and effort in such a great demonstration!
Salutation,
Alexandre Valiquette, from Québec, Canada
Ok, I've watched the video another time... Everything is not black or white, it really depend of your application...
I will come back to watch it again to better understand all the subltilities on each graphics.
That's what make a great video!!!
A MUST video taking in the strength & load bearing factors i
Just found your channel, thanks to a shout-out from Angus. Really like your detailed test and measurement approach.
On this particular topic, I'd be interested to see how the cubic etc infill patterns in Cura perform - they claim to achieve more consistent strength as they move layer to layer by building a three-dimensional internal lattice. I can see they should be stronger under compression in all directions overall, but I imagine the layer adhesion for the infill itself is significantly weaker when under tension.
I like that your test object cover tension and torque.
This is exactly what we need to see more off from youtube, scientificallyish comparisons between settings and filaments.
Still pretty new to printing myself but I've been using like 15% infill max and an average of 5% I feel like infill is simply to help stabilize walls to help prevent collapse. Thicker walls I feel is where the actual strength comes in. Ideally you slice it and skim through the layers to see how it will print to determine whether the percentage used is actually going to reinforce what you want.
Das ist sehr hilfreich! Ich würde sofort unterstützen, wenn Du Deine Ergebnisse zusätzlich in Form einer Tabelle verlinken würdest.
Just what I was looking for, thanks so much
Fantastic video. Always wondering about the effect each print setting has on time/strength, and now I don't need to do my own experiments!
You have one of the best hardcore engineering of 3D printing. Keep it up!!!
super clean prints! thanks for doing this!
Infill is almost more of a (non-removable) internal support structure for top and bottom layers. if you increase infill% you wont need as many full top layers.
Also unless an essentially solid part is required you should not print at 100% infill. Some strange things start happening with expansion and shrinkage of the overall print.
Recently I have been using exclusively ESUN PLA+ so it may be different for other brands/materials.
You're an absolute legend!!! Maybe you read my page github.com/superjamie/lazyweb/wiki/3D-Printing-Part-Strength in your research. I found people say full honeycomb resists tensile force better, but rectilinear is better for bending force. I also found one shell is equal to about 25% infill like you found, good to have this confirmed. I would love to see more videos like this! Your channel is easily the best resource on printed part strength available. I agree infill over 75% is probably useless and hard to print. My goto is 4 perimeters, 8 top/bottom, 50% infill, but I'd like to experiment with 5/10 and 75%. I'd like to see a comparison with bending resistance rather than tension, and higher infill ratios over 50%, and the effect of layer height. There is NO conclusive analysis of layer height on part strength that I could find.
Also this video has tipped me over the edge. Time for Patreon support.
Well thought out reply and I'd also REALLY like to see how layer height contributes to part strength,rigidity, fracture points, etc. I would patreon support for this info! 👍🏼
Very informative video. Your analysis is very helpful. Thank you for sharing.
Great video. Love your content!
I would add a comment/reminder regarding part orientation as the biggest factor (before even looking at infills, perimeter layers etc... whenever possible). It might be obvious, but understanding the load path of your designs and orienting the part on the print bed so that the load paths are in the XY plane (continuous filament) is likely the most efficient way to get strength for a given weight. I know it's not 100% the point of the video but it's still a good reminder. You have shown us how anisotropic printed parts are.
Learning a lot from your studies.
agree, and I've found that layer cooling is huge too, particularly when I am printing multiple parts together like these hooks were, and the slicer is making decisions on travel with parts that are being build up side-by-side.
hi if you were printing a furniture leg that is round that has an adjustable skrew to adjust the length, would you print it on its side to make it stronger xx
Definitely make more technical videos! Danke!
I think you make great videos, thanks for that! I almost only print stuff that I use on my car, drone or in my home. So strength is number one prio for me. This video helps alot. I did allways print with 2 perimeters and 100% infill before. Now I use more shells instead and lower infill :)
Son Video kann echt nur ein Deutscher machen ;-) Abgesehen davon: DANKE für die umfangreichen Infos! Sehr hilfreich!
Thank you very much for the data! Great video!
I would be very interested in seeing direct comparisons of 3d infills to their 2d counterparts. For what I am doing at the moment (using 3d printed parts structurally for chain sprockets, drivetrain track sprockets, and composite frame connections on a college robotics team), near isotropic parts are a bit of a holy grail. Seems like 3d infills might help with that, although I worry about lower layer contact area due the offset of the layers in the infills.
Using 3D Prints for those kinds of high load applications is nearly a waste of time without post processing. Most of the strength problems with 3D prints can be nearly eliminated with heat treating or surface treatment to melt together and bind the layers.
Plus, if you are a decent engineer, just like was mentioned in the video, layers can be oriented and multiplied to get specifically non-isotropic parts for each application.
Vielen Dank Stefan @CNC Kitchen! (now on english for the sake of the others) - you sure the screenies are the right ones in 6:55? I think you mixed S3d and Slic3r? Maybe? Anyways, I have a customer who demands 100% infoll to make a part strong - now I can show hin "in his face" that 100% is bonkers. Grüße aus Spanien, schön ein guter Deutscher RUclipsr zu sehen!
Ups 😅
I feel like this video should be redone and you could do it. Amazing you make amazing videos. Please redo it with the new infill options
I bring up the values in the wall thickness and with a small amount of infill for most of my prints. But for anything strong I work on both Wall thinkness and infill but I don't go above 50% on infill.
Thank you very much for this video, it helped me a lot
Your videos are exceptional!
Honeycomb is very good with pressure on top and bottom of it but not side.
Hi, I found your channel today and I'm pretty sure that this weekend I will watch all of your video! anyway, can I ask you if you have already made a tutorial for building a "tensile test machine" like the one in this video? thank you!
Unfortunately there isn't a video about the tensile test machine, yet.
Great work with very useful information!
The cross sectional shape ( moment of inertia ) of the part should help produce a more efficient part as well.....
Thanks for the video.
thanks for doing the science! Great job. Very informative.
Yeey! 'Nornal' videos again! Very informative. Thanks!
Proper tests with proper usable results. Thanks!
This only measures 'tensile' or 'shear' strength, not 'compression' strength. Another factor beyond infill density, is infill thickness. Most infill is printed in single walled layers by default, but that can be increased to multiple walls, which would undoubtedly increase strength. So you could have 20% infill but with 3 layer thick infill. Another factor of infill is the overlap percentage, where it connects the infill to the outer walls. This is by default 5%, which isn't much. If you were to increase this to 50% for example, or even 100%, you would have a much stronger connection to the outer walls. I suspect that the reason why regular infill comparisons don't add too much strength is because it's soo thin, it effectively pulls apart and separates from the outer walls, not really reinforcing them as much as they could and acting more likely a lattice to support top layers than to increase strength.
I would also say that with the geometry of the hook and how it carries its load, top and bottom thickness would be more important than side wall thickness. So you could probably get away with single layer wall thickness, while giving the top and bottom layers more thickness, and substantially increase the strength of the part.
So if you really wanted stronger parts, you'd increase the infill overlap percentage along with the infill wall thickness along with the top and bottom layer thickness.
Can you also test the 3D infill patterns from slic3r Prusa edition? There are supposed to increase the part strength. And slic3r is pronounced slicer
Some choose to pronounce it slic 3 r to make it less confusing to newbies. Slicer is generic term for slicer software and mixing it with a specific program can cause some confusion.
most useful video I have ever found in 3d printing.=)
4 years later and i just had to correct things like "20% gyroid infill" when someone asks if they can make parts stronger... These myths are really, really difficult to bust cause each year comes new people who make all kinds of own conclusions and then spreads them as facts.
Regarding infill only, have you experimented with rotating it and adjusting the line width?
Could there be a different result if you printed each hook separately? Especially as you get higher, I would imagine that the plastic cools down a bit, especially with more hooks on the plate at once, and potentially create a weaker adhesion between layers.
I was wondering the same thing.
Thank you
Great video again, I like how you explain, thanks!
Your videos are the best! I'd like to point out that in Cura 100% infill will actually make as many perimeters as needed to fill the surface, instead of using paralell lines like S3D, so you would get Pisces a lot stronger with 100% infill in Cura.
You make a wonderful content ❤💯
Again an excellent video Stefan ! You should also consider studying the impact of different.. layer height ... ^^ Yep definitively, keep your content going more into a scientific approach !
Will do that!
About rect and hnycb patterns , test done in 2015, rect used to rule ^^ : engineerdog.com/2015/09/02/mechanical-testing-3d-printed-parts-results-and-recommendations/
great video and data
Excellent testing and explanation. It makes sense that having more filaments in the direction of the stress, near the outside of the part where the stress is greatest, would be stronger. I have a question, however. If you are printing a solid, round rod, oriented vertically in the Z-axis, the perimeter layers are printed around the circumference of the part, and if the rod is subjected to a bending load, the stress will be trying to pull apart the layers from each other on the tension side. I would assume this would be much weaker than if the filaments ran in the Z direction, but that is not practical. In my application, I have a flat base with a rod protruding vertically from it, and it is subject to some bending loads applied sideways at the top of the rod. The weakest point is where the rod meets the base. What would be the strongest way to print this part? Thanks in advance for your answer.
SUPER ! Thank you...
Before I get to the results, I'd say that the Honeycomb would be the strongest. It's called honeycomb because it's the fastest & most effective way to build supports in nature, and like the name suggests in combs too.
Thanks
amazing job!!! well done!!! I loved what u did :-)
You should have also controlled cell size, not just infill density. The full honeycomb cells was larger than the half.
Great work, would you please share your test results
Cool ! Good work, Thanks a lot !
Great. More videos at this theme?
You should've tested Prusa's 3D Cubic infill, IMO that's stronger than these and prints quite fast too.
Please test the 3d infills! I use cubic and it works for me, but maybe I should stick with 2d?
0:24 the moment i heard "Guten Tag"
I start hearing "Brrrrrrrrrrrrraka monoga, Doitsu no kagaku, Wa sekai Ichiiiiiiii !!!" - Rudol von Stroheim
Hey Stefan :D Thanks for the video, you mentioned 100% infill is not advisable, how do you usually achieve your solid specimen for testing? which settings are you using? or what is the strongest part by dimensions if weight is no objective :)
Looking forward to more of this even thou its already a year later
I do use 100% infill ratio for them but really finely tune the extrusion factor for each material.
@@CNCKitchen Such a fast answer to such an old video o.O Thanks! :) yea i noticed that the extrusion factor seems to matter a lot, some parts just break very easily due to tension it seems...
I will try around with this a little, lets see what i find :D
thanx 4 useful video
Awesome video! Just a small detail: it's not pronounced Slick 3 R, it is pronounced Slicer.
Amazing. Please, keep bringing on the science! I think you and Thomas Sanladerer are the best so far and you should be as big as he is in the community! I think you will be! Ha Germans have a knack for 3D printing video making... Who knew...
MyBrainVent If you don't know them, I would recomend RCLifeOn for the projects, as well as 3D printing nerd and 3DMakerNoob
@@tiberiocellini3641 The RCLifeOn guy is a knob head though. Makersmuse all day.
I have had some success by adding internal 0.5mm holes between surfaces at selected locations. They don't go all the way to the surface. This makes the slicer add some wall thickness to the hole giving greater compressive strength, wall to wall.
Any comments? Have you tested this?
I am using cura, mostly.
Check this out: ruclips.net/video/q0YsC53mFvY/видео.html
Is it better to have a pair of 0.4 mm walls, or a single 0.7mm wall? I chose 0.7 because I typically use a 0.6 nozzle.
I love the rigor with which you do the testing. Varying only one parameter at a time. And thoroughly analyzing the results.
Great job !
6:14
**becomes an entire patreon**
Great analysis Stefan! I really appreciate your rational scientific approach in a world where too often speculation is king. Keep up the good work!