I love how Hugo and Sonya go in depth about subjects on mens style. It is not something snoby being stylish. Elegance is an art form. You can buy a ten thousand dollar suit but if you don't know how to style it properly you just have an overpaid piece of fabric.
There are not many style channels out there which cover such subjects as this. This is why I subscribed. Informative and intelligent with a real knowledge of classic style. Anyone with a passion for clothes and sartorial insight should take a look at these videos. Sonia has certainly given a good incentive and reason to go bespoke. Great video. Regards from England.
Armscye, sleeve pitch, and shoulder slope are the key differentiators of Made to measure and Bespoke. These sartorial videos are great ways to educate customer of what to look for. Thank you again for a wonderful and easy explanation.
I thank Hugo and Sonya for their continued efforts. I’ve upgraded my business casual from kakis and a knit shirt, to slacks, dress shirt, tie and a sport coat. I’m a work in progress. Thanks again.
Many fashion experts, and influencers, emphasize proper fit, but few are able to articulate the details necessary to achieve it. Hugo and Sonya do this exceptionally well.
Good evening Sonya thank you so much for passing on more invaluable information, the work that you and Hugo do is truly well appreciated, kind regards Ryan.
Fabulous Sonya thank you, this can make a huge difference to the fit and feel of the suit, as can where the suit shoulder ends in relation to your own shoulders. Beautifully explained.
I'm a new follower of this channel and I love how you explain and show quality. First this video helps to get suit jackets with a better fit. Second it makes me better appreciate the art of a good tailor.
omigosh. I've been looking for a new suit for a while now - I did not want to pay for a bespoke suit if I didn't need to, but every jacket I put on had divots on the shoulder. I had just thought the issue was due to the arm hole - off the rack/ready to wear suits are going to have an arm hole that fits the most people, and you can't just bring it to a tailor, as I understand it I definitely have a "V" shape (both torso and the trapezius area) and also wide back due to lifting weights, and it has made it very challenging to find suits that fit perfectly. Now there's two more variables to consider! I really hope MTM suits is going to work for me, because I simply cannot afford to purchase a number of bespoke suits :(
It is a case-by-case situation and so I'm not sure what you are experiencing, but perhaps commissioning one bespoke suit would clarify a few unique points about your morphology. If your shoulders are not considered "universal by nature", you indeed may need to employ a good MTM or bespoke suit. Best, ~Sonya
Such great advice and demonstration Sonya. Funnily wearing my blazer I did notice these things, but couldn't understand why but thanks to your video I have a much clearer understanding, thank you Sonya.
We try to follow their ready-to-wear line when we can and wish them well! The "bespoke Cifonelli team" on rue Marbeuf has crafted handmade suits for Hugo and me for years but we have yet to try a ready-to-wear suit of theirs:). Cheers, ~Sonya
This may have just helped me determine what's wrong with one of my suits. I couldn't figure out why one shoulder looked so much bigger than the other. It's at the tailor's right now but I'll have to see if we can adjust the pitch when I go back in. Thank you!
Hello, Tony! I'm curious to know as well if maybe one of your shoulder slopes down more than the other---as in the case with Hugo. As you said, take a sideview look in the mirror and see if there are any issues. If you have a chance, let us know how all works out in the end. Cheers, Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS My right shoulder is about an inch lower than my left, which we tried to adjust for during the initial fitting (it's MTM). I guess it didn't quite come out right. All the other suits I've had made by them subsequently don't have that issue, just this one. I'll definitely post an update if we figure anything out
I'm curious to know if the same person cut/tailored this piece. Sometimes as an atelier's reputation grows, work is delegated to an apprentice who is trying to learn. Of cours, this may not apply to your situation AT ALL, but it is a question I sometimes ask when I see inconsistencies with the same craftsman/woman whome I've worked with for years, and I suddenly see a different result. Anyway, look forward to updates. ~S
Hi and thank you LTH. We used to write about subjects such as this on Parisian Gentleman, but ended up shifting focus to RUclips. I'm glad you're here and commented. Cheers, Sonya
I was hoping for a blooper portion at the end of the video where Sonya might have spoken three times fast in a row: Say Sleeve Slope. Impressive that she got through that tongue twister!
Of course at this moment I am trying to say 'sleeve slope' 5 times in a row for fun---which is kind of ridiculous because I should have been saying SHOULDER SLOPE and sleeve pitch...apologies for that, argh. I think I said "shoulder slope" maximum three times and botched the term the other times...But thanks for the A+ attitude. Cheers, Sonya
All about your own style and hopefully transforming that perception into what "suits" you. Well fitted clothes should be like their feel natural they move not bind they "go" with the person man or woman. In its self that gives the wearer a friendly easy confidence that can enhance say a date or meeting or an outing with friend's. You will attract at the same time inspire.
Video like this is so helpful, thanks Sonya. It would be awesome if you two can make a video on the types of wrinkle commonly seen on misfit jackets and the ways to fix them. I’m going to a second fitting soon, so I really want to a thing or two before I get back to my tailor.
Hi Sonya. Thanks for passing along yet more vital suit arcana to the very grateful. Actually, I shouldn't say "passing along." It's more like spoon-feeding. Could you suggest to me how a woman with proportions similar to yours would go about buying a men's suit and have it altered to fit her? I realize you have your suits made and that may be the way to go. Either way, she's concerned that a tailor accustomed to men's proportions may have trouble fitting a woman properly. How should she begin her quest? Thanks.
If I were her, I would start with wearing Walker Slater ready to wear suits (affordable but made fairly well) to understand what styles she likes and then go for a made to measure suit either by Walker Slater in Edinburgh -- you must go there in person. Or she could go to Prague for a made to measure by The Owners. These two suggestions should work because women tailors are involved and will alter her suits to fit. If you are adventurous enough and able to travel to give it a try, please tell them we sent you. Cheers ! Sonya
Thank you Sonya , I needed this information as I have very sloping shoulders. What would I need to tell the MTM / Bespoke tailor for my Shirt / Suit to be correct?
Hi Jahlove, Interesting but it has been through an MTM provider that I learned about the slope device (Enzo in NY), so maybe your MTM maker did take your shoulder slope into account. It doesn't hurt to ask for sure. Best of luck, Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS I'm from Oklahoma, so we share a lot of the same mannerisms with our friends in the South. One thing that does suck about the South though 8s the complete and utter lack if sartorial culture. Where I live, there is one high end mens store. ONE! And its very limited. But its reassuring to see that there are others that have found a way out of the constraints of the Southern wardrobe. lol Keep up the good work, guys.
@@BureauATF I understand your point, yet we have noticed how Southerners enjoy being stylish and seem to be hungry to know more. Our largest number of USA viewers come from LA, Dallas, New York and Atlanta. The LA mix surprised me a bit. Enjoyed your comment & thanks for the reply, straight from the state of Oklahoma! Cheers from Bourgogne, Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Its the exact opposite here in Oklahoma. There is almost no interest in style in our local culture. I went to Shen Yun on Monday, where the dress code was evening wear. You know what my fellow Okies were wearing? Jeans with an oversized polo tucked in, with some tennis shoes to top it all off. That's formal here. But that's okay. I'm doing the good work out here and trying to get people on board. Maybe we'll talk about it in person one day. Getting on your top Patreon tier for that weekend getaway is on my bucket list!
@Sartorial Talks & @Sonia I think now you should develop a women-centric channel as well. Where women also can learn about fashion and sartorialism from the best source on Internet possible. Dont you think?
Thank you for the suggestion and confidence, Abhinav. We are trying to figure out the avenue to handle these requests because we are giving so much as a team of three, to propel the menswear side of things. I'm sure the answer will reveal itself and am grateful for your reply. All the best, Sonya Glyn
I have seen beautiful jackets with an upward curve toward the outer edge of the shoulder in the shoulder slope. What determines this shape, is it style or shoulder type?
That's called a pagoda shoulder. It's designed to make the wearer appear more broad shouldered and stronger, as well as bring attention to the face area
Hi, I believe you are referring to the stylized "Pagoda Shoulder'? Pierre Cardin popularized an extreme version of the Pagoda---a concave contour, which slopes downwards from the collar and rises up again towards the shoulder-creating a shape somewhat resembling the roof of a pagoda. French tailoring usually adopts a more tamed version of the Pagoda to add flair and sophistication to a suit coat, blazer or jacket. Best, ~Sonya
Thank you Sonya, would you agree that altering sleeve pitch or shoulder slope for most RTW jacket with little inlay in the area would be like a major surgery, therefore not recommended
If the armholes are small, it would be easier to alter the sleeve pitch by removing the sleeves and repositioning them to fit the client's sleeve pitch---However, working with a large armhole would likely be too messy and render a less delicate result. As you say, the canvas could present problems when trying to alter the shoulder slope and I do not have a clear idea how this could even be accomplished (without consulting with a professional). Good question--thanks for your reply/question. ~Sonya
You can write me on Instagram @sonyaglyn (if you have an account) and I can ask a few questions and perhaps give you some names according to your interests and price point. Thanks, ~Sonya
I believe that a bespoke jacket should NOT be cut primarily to follow a down slope of the shoulders of the client nor a forward angle of his arms that result from the curvature of his back. That is not perfect fit (if you want this perfect fit just wear a glove suit). On the contrary, a beautiful bespoke jacket should make his bearer look elegant, which really means as strong and erect as possible. This is possible, without sacrificing much comfort, by way of canvas, padding, and good hand stitching and setting of the sleeves, shoulder and collar.
Hello, Hector. Thank you for adding your likely "experienced viewpoint". My hope is that the terms sleeve pitch and shoulder slope become a consideration for many who didn't know the terms before this production. Nice point about the use of cotton wadding to pad the shoulders; Hugo has two different shoulder slope measurements, so your point is really applicable in his case. Preventing faulty fabric gathers and strange proportions is the goal, through being aware of some basic language to describe the body. I guess if you correct everyone's body in the same way, people could look like clones in suits, so I suppose there is a balance between correcting perceived body "faults" and embracing body differences. Cheers and thanks for commenting, Sonya
As a new person here, I wish she would have defined both terms first vs at the end so I understood what these terms mean. Frankly, I still don't but I will look them up.
Hi Roger, Sorry not to be more clear. Term 1) Sleeve Pitch: the angle the sleeve is attached, and 2) Shoulder Slope: the slope of the shoulders ranging from "slope a"=perpendicular to a standing body to "slope d"= shoulders with the appearance of an upside down V. There is an article on Parisian Gentleman entitled Sleeve Pitch if you would like to dig deeper. Cheers to you and thank you for your comment. ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS - yes you made that clearer at the end. I take it that the purpose is for a bespoke tailor to take your natural posture for both into account while making a jacket. MTM probably has set for both so look for one that fits your posture. Is it safe to assume that the more you fall out of the norms the more a deconstructed look might look better? Or at least the need to go bespoke.
@@rogerhuston8287 Makes sense, and the MTM offers vary so wildly, ranging from spectacular to minimal. If you fall out of the norm, you make a good point in regard to how a deconstructed jacket give more fit versatility. In the cases where one side of the body is different from the other (i.e., one should is lower), a constructed jacket can used cotton wadding/padding to build up the low shoulder. So, I suppose each person should educate him/herself and go from there in accordance with body morphology and crafter. Cheers and glad you prompted the discussion. ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS the problem is that, for a non angloamerican, the real accent of mothertongue is very hard. So it's easier to understand a school learned fake accent. It's a common problem for english students this. I know you ve been to Italy, and if you hear student diction is easy, but to fully understand real milanese or neapolitan accent it's less easy...
@@marcolucca6241 I do understand for sure and I will try to apply your advice for any future episodes I do (that is, precise, slightly slower diction). Thank you for taking the time to recommend the adjustment. Cheers! ~Sonya
I'll suggest that her accent (with a bit of Southern U.S. mixed in) is perfectly legible / understandable. Perhaps you should improve your ability in the lingua franca of the world, and certainly the internet.
@@SARTORIALTALKS I'll take you up on that question. I do hear an occasional Southern U.S. bend in a some of your tones. But, I'll file your accent under seductive. ;->
I love how Hugo and Sonya go in depth about subjects on mens style. It is not something snoby being stylish. Elegance is an art form. You can buy a ten thousand dollar suit but if you don't know how to style it properly you just have an overpaid piece of fabric.
Very perceptive and kind--we look forward to your replies---thanks KK. ~Sonya & Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you. I guess I have a way with words. I always look forward to your videos.
There are not many style channels out there which cover such subjects as this. This is why I subscribed. Informative and intelligent with a real knowledge of classic style. Anyone with a passion for clothes and sartorial insight should take a look at these videos. Sonia has certainly given a good incentive and reason to go bespoke. Great video. Regards from England.
This is a huge help to read and encourages us both to continue. Cheers and thank you, Sonya (and Hugo)
Her voice is sooooo soothing to me. I could listen to her all day.
I'm a lucky man because I'm listening to her all day (she's my wife!). Cheers, Hugo
I love Sonya's videos! She explains things so well and is just a pleasure to listen to!
Armscye, sleeve pitch, and shoulder slope are the key differentiators of Made to measure and Bespoke.
These sartorial videos are great ways to educate customer of what to look for.
Thank you again for a wonderful and easy explanation.
You must speak from experience--glad to hear from you and thanks! ~Sonya
What makes me happier than a video uploaded by Mr. Jacomet?
By Mrs. Jacomet of course!
Ahaha well that is saying something, for sure. Honored! Sonya
This was so helpful! Will keep all this in mind when fitting clients. Thank you!
Wonderful, thank you so much for watching. Cheers, Sonya
Thank you for the explain Sonia. Now I know why certain jackets fit better.
Great to receive your reply. Thank you, ~Sonya
I thank Hugo and Sonya for their continued efforts. I’ve upgraded my business casual from kakis and a knit shirt, to slacks, dress shirt, tie and a sport coat. I’m a work in progress. Thanks again.
Congratulations John ! Hugo & Sonya
Thank You Sonya I Didn’t Realize How Pitch n Sleeve Sloping Made Such a Difference in Wearability and Appearance 😮😯😊😀😀👍🏼
Thank you, Chris for replying, and glad the shoulder slope and sleeve pitch points came across clearly. Cheers, Sonya
Many fashion experts, and influencers, emphasize proper fit,
but few are able to articulate the details necessary to achieve it.
Hugo and Sonya do this exceptionally well.
Comments like yours make a difference to us. Thank you so much! ~Sonya & Hugo
The best part of this video is that Sonya demonstrates the concepts on her own suit. Thanks.
Relieved the concept worked--we were happily surprised when we saw how the first edit panned out, ha! Thank you, ~Sonya
Thank you so much for this Sonya! It’s always the small details that most men miss. Cheers!
Hi friend and thank you for your kind words and support. Sonya
Brilliant explanation! Terms are new to me and everything seems so logical after this tutorial
Wonderful to read and thank you for commenting! ~Sonya
Good evening Sonya thank you so much for passing on more invaluable information, the work that you and Hugo do is truly well appreciated, kind regards Ryan.
Hi Ryan and thank you so much for your reply. Cheers! ~Sonya
SARTORIAL TALKS my pleasure 😇
This helped my wife and me identify some tailoring issues. Thank you.
Great to know---thank you so much for your reply. Cheers, ~Sonya
Fabulous Sonya thank you, this can make a huge difference to the fit and feel of the suit, as can where the suit shoulder ends in relation to your own shoulders. Beautifully explained.
Agreed and thank you, friend ! ~Sonya
I'm a new follower of this channel and I love how you explain and show quality. First this video helps to get suit jackets with a better fit. Second it makes me better appreciate the art of a good tailor.
Your words are very encouraging for me. Thank you, Alfa ! Sonya
omigosh.
I've been looking for a new suit for a while now - I did not want to pay for a bespoke suit if I didn't need to, but every jacket I put on had divots on the shoulder. I had just thought the issue was due to the arm hole - off the rack/ready to wear suits are going to have an arm hole that fits the most people, and you can't just bring it to a tailor, as I understand it
I definitely have a "V" shape (both torso and the trapezius area) and also wide back due to lifting weights, and it has made it very challenging to find suits that fit perfectly. Now there's two more variables to consider! I really hope MTM suits is going to work for me, because I simply cannot afford to purchase a number of bespoke suits :(
Sadly, only the best MTM suits will help you in your situation, otherwise: bespoke.
It is a case-by-case situation and so I'm not sure what you are experiencing, but perhaps commissioning one bespoke suit would clarify a few unique points about your morphology. If your shoulders are not considered "universal by nature", you indeed may need to employ a good MTM or bespoke suit. Best, ~Sonya
Such great advice and demonstration Sonya. Funnily wearing my blazer I did notice these things, but couldn't understand why but thanks to your video I have a much clearer understanding, thank you Sonya.
Comments such as yours were what we were hoping to receive, so thanks for taking the time to reply. Cheers to you! ~Sonya
👍😍This commentary is absolutely terrific!!! Thank you 🙏so much for explaining this info in a manner that’s easy to understand. You’re amazing! 🤗💞🤗
Hi Atlanta (my hometown before Europe). I'm happy to receive your reply & go Braves/Hawks/Falcons/UGA and sometimes Tech :). ~Sonya
Love the way you explain this sartorial journey
Thank you for saying so! Much appreciation, ~Sonya
Excellent explanation of a subject, in this case " The shoulder pitch" that not every one is versed on it. Thank you!!
Great to know it has been helpful and glad you replied. Cheers! ~Sonya
Thank you for the tutorial. I look forward to your next video presentation. Cheers.
Really nice to know, W. Thank you so much for being here. ~Sonya
Fantastic video. Really well explained. I thank you for putting this out there.
Really happy it resonated, thank you. All the best, ~Sonya
I visited the Cifonelli store on Saville Row at Christmas.
We try to follow their ready-to-wear line when we can and wish them well! The "bespoke Cifonelli team" on rue Marbeuf has crafted handmade suits for Hugo and me for years but we have yet to try a ready-to-wear suit of theirs:). Cheers, ~Sonya
SARTORIAL TALKS I will have to post an interior photo of the shop from my desktop, but they have gorgeous ready to wear merchandise.
This may have just helped me determine what's wrong with one of my suits. I couldn't figure out why one shoulder looked so much bigger than the other. It's at the tailor's right now but I'll have to see if we can adjust the pitch when I go back in. Thank you!
Hello, Tony! I'm curious to know as well if maybe one of your shoulder slopes down more than the other---as in the case with Hugo. As you said, take a sideview look in the mirror and see if there are any issues. If you have a chance, let us know how all works out in the end. Cheers, Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS My right shoulder is about an inch lower than my left, which we tried to adjust for during the initial fitting (it's MTM). I guess it didn't quite come out right. All the other suits I've had made by them subsequently don't have that issue, just this one. I'll definitely post an update if we figure anything out
I'm curious to know if the same person cut/tailored this piece. Sometimes as an atelier's reputation grows, work is delegated to an apprentice who is trying to learn. Of cours, this may not apply to your situation AT ALL, but it is a question I sometimes ask when I see inconsistencies with the same craftsman/woman whome I've worked with for years, and I suddenly see a different result. Anyway, look forward to updates. ~S
Thank you Sonya!
I did not know about this.
Hi and thank you LTH. We used to write about subjects such as this on Parisian Gentleman, but ended up shifting focus to RUclips. I'm glad you're here and commented. Cheers, Sonya
I was hoping for a blooper portion at the end of the video where Sonya might have spoken three times fast in a row: Say Sleeve Slope. Impressive that she got through that tongue twister!
Of course at this moment I am trying to say 'sleeve slope' 5 times in a row for fun---which is kind of ridiculous because I should have been saying SHOULDER SLOPE and sleeve pitch...apologies for that, argh. I think I said "shoulder slope" maximum three times and botched the term the other times...But thanks for the A+ attitude. Cheers, Sonya
All about your own style and hopefully transforming that perception into what "suits" you.
Well fitted clothes should be like their feel natural they move not bind they "go" with the person man or woman.
In its self that gives the wearer a friendly easy confidence that can enhance say a date or meeting or an outing with friend's.
You will attract at the same time inspire.
Encouraging words and comfort is often underrated IMO. Thank you, Sonya
Who down votes this stuff????? Such amazing information
A big thank you! Cheers! ~Sonya
Wow good info. Thank you.
Good to know & thanks for replying. ~Sonya
Video like this is so helpful, thanks Sonya.
It would be awesome if you two can make a video on the types of wrinkle commonly seen on misfit jackets and the ways to fix them.
I’m going to a second fitting soon, so I really want to a thing or two before I get back to my tailor.
Thanks DD, I will try to figure out how to approach the subject you suggest. Cheers and glad you watched, ~Sonya
The neckerchief looks so cute really like the look.
Thank you, PS. ~S
First, and I did need this video. Cheers
Hey, great to know and thanks for being here. ~Sonya
Thank you, amazing video!
Hey, I'm glad and thanks for the reply. Cheers, ~Sonya
Hi Sonya. Thanks for passing along yet more vital suit arcana to the very grateful. Actually, I shouldn't say
"passing along." It's more like spoon-feeding. Could you suggest to me how a woman with proportions similar to yours would go about buying a men's suit and have it altered to fit her? I realize you have your suits made and that may be the way to go. Either way, she's concerned that a tailor accustomed to men's proportions may have trouble fitting a woman properly. How should she begin her quest? Thanks.
If I were her, I would start with wearing Walker Slater ready to wear suits (affordable but made fairly well) to understand what styles she likes and then go for a made to measure suit either by Walker Slater in Edinburgh -- you must go there in person. Or she could go to Prague for a made to measure by The Owners. These two suggestions should work because women tailors are involved and will alter her suits to fit. If you are adventurous enough and able to travel to give it a try, please tell them we sent you. Cheers ! Sonya
Dear Sonya, simply ,,it amazing ,,,,,,,,,,,,,i mean amazing elegant scarf )))))))), you are the best as usual, love to you and Hugo from Cairo.
Hi friend. Always nice to hear from you. We really appreciate your loyalty and perspective as well. Cheers again! Sonya and Hugo
Thank you Sonya , I needed this information as I have very sloping shoulders. What would I need to tell the MTM / Bespoke tailor for my Shirt / Suit to be correct?
Hi Jahlove, Interesting but it has been through an MTM provider that I learned about the slope device (Enzo in NY), so maybe your MTM maker did take your shoulder slope into account. It doesn't hurt to ask for sure. Best of luck, Sonya
SARTORIAL TALKS Thank you for the reply, I will ask when the time comes
@@Jahlove3223 Great & please leave a follow-up here regarding the outcome, if you are inclined. ~S
Does the shoulder slope affect the fit under the arm pits ?
Great content, honestly would not have paid much attention to this detail if you didnt put this up.
Thank you, Rejeev, I have been right there with you, once upon a time. Thank you for the reply! ~Sonya
If you have straight back or in other words soldier like posture, good luck buying anything in RTW that will look half-decent
Hi Stefan! Excellent point and a good excuse to go bespoke if you love suits, jackets and sport(s) coats. Cheers, ~Sonya
Whoo! Number one! Love you guys!
Dang, so close... lol
Thank you, Tyler. The "first comments" seem to always make us grin, as they say in the South. ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS I'm from Oklahoma, so we share a lot of the same mannerisms with our friends in the South. One thing that does suck about the South though 8s the complete and utter lack if sartorial culture. Where I live, there is one high end mens store. ONE! And its very limited. But its reassuring to see that there are others that have found a way out of the constraints of the Southern wardrobe. lol
Keep up the good work, guys.
@@BureauATF I understand your point, yet we have noticed how Southerners enjoy being stylish and seem to be hungry to know more. Our largest number of USA viewers come from LA, Dallas, New York and Atlanta. The LA mix surprised me a bit. Enjoyed your comment & thanks for the reply, straight from the state of Oklahoma! Cheers from Bourgogne, Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Its the exact opposite here in Oklahoma. There is almost no interest in style in our local culture. I went to Shen Yun on Monday, where the dress code was evening wear. You know what my fellow Okies were wearing? Jeans with an oversized polo tucked in, with some tennis shoes to top it all off. That's formal here. But that's okay. I'm doing the good work out here and trying to get people on board. Maybe we'll talk about it in person one day. Getting on your top Patreon tier for that weekend getaway is on my bucket list!
@Sartorial Talks & @Sonia I think now you should develop a women-centric channel as well. Where women also can learn about fashion and sartorialism from the best source on Internet possible. Dont you think?
Thank you for the suggestion and confidence, Abhinav. We are trying to figure out the avenue to handle these requests because we are giving so much as a team of three, to propel the menswear side of things. I'm sure the answer will reveal itself and am grateful for your reply. All the best, Sonya Glyn
I have seen beautiful jackets with an upward curve toward the outer edge of the shoulder in the shoulder slope. What determines this shape, is it style or shoulder type?
That's called a pagoda shoulder. It's designed to make the wearer appear more broad shouldered and stronger, as well as bring attention to the face area
Hi, I believe you are referring to the stylized "Pagoda Shoulder'? Pierre Cardin popularized an extreme version of the Pagoda---a concave contour, which slopes downwards from the collar and rises up again towards the shoulder-creating a shape somewhat resembling the roof of a pagoda. French tailoring usually adopts a more tamed version of the Pagoda to add flair and sophistication to a suit coat, blazer or jacket. Best, ~Sonya
Thank you Sonya, would you agree that altering sleeve pitch or shoulder slope for most RTW jacket with little inlay in the area would be like a major surgery, therefore not recommended
If the armholes are small, it would be easier to alter the sleeve pitch by removing the sleeves and repositioning them to fit the client's sleeve pitch---However, working with a large armhole would likely be too messy and render a less delicate result.
As you say, the canvas could present problems when trying to alter the shoulder slope and I do not have a clear idea how this could even be accomplished (without consulting with a professional). Good question--thanks for your reply/question. ~Sonya
Can you please do a Top 5 or Top 10 of Females (if any) that make Bespoke suits or shoes?
You can write me on Instagram @sonyaglyn (if you have an account) and I can ask a few questions and perhaps give you some names according to your interests and price point. Thanks, ~Sonya
I believe that a bespoke jacket should NOT be cut primarily to follow a down slope of the shoulders of the client nor a forward angle of his arms that result from the curvature of his back. That is not perfect fit (if you want this perfect fit just wear a glove suit). On the contrary, a beautiful bespoke jacket should make his bearer look elegant, which really means as strong and erect as possible. This is possible, without sacrificing much comfort, by way of canvas, padding, and good hand stitching and setting of the sleeves, shoulder and collar.
Hello, Hector. Thank you for adding your likely "experienced viewpoint". My hope is that the terms sleeve pitch and shoulder slope become a consideration for many who didn't know the terms before this production. Nice point about the use of cotton wadding to pad the shoulders; Hugo has two different shoulder slope measurements, so your point is really applicable in his case. Preventing faulty fabric gathers and strange proportions is the goal, through being aware of some basic language to describe the body. I guess if you correct everyone's body in the same way, people could look like clones in suits, so I suppose there is a balance between correcting perceived body "faults" and embracing body differences. Cheers and thanks for commenting, Sonya
As a new person here, I wish she would have defined both terms first vs at the end so I understood what these terms mean. Frankly, I still don't but I will look them up.
Hi Roger, Sorry not to be more clear. Term 1) Sleeve Pitch: the angle the sleeve is attached, and 2) Shoulder Slope: the slope of the shoulders ranging from "slope a"=perpendicular to a standing body to "slope d"= shoulders with the appearance of an upside down V. There is an article on Parisian Gentleman entitled Sleeve Pitch if you would like to dig deeper. Cheers to you and thank you for your comment. ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS - yes you made that clearer at the end. I take it that the purpose is for a bespoke tailor to take your natural posture for both into account while making a jacket. MTM probably has set for both so look for one that fits your posture. Is it safe to assume that the more you fall out of the norms the more a deconstructed look might look better? Or at least the need to go bespoke.
@@rogerhuston8287 Makes sense, and the MTM offers vary so wildly, ranging from spectacular to minimal. If you fall out of the norm, you make a good point in regard to how a deconstructed jacket give more fit versatility. In the cases where one side of the body is different from the other (i.e., one should is lower), a constructed jacket can used cotton wadding/padding to build up the low shoulder. So, I suppose each person should educate him/herself and go from there in accordance with body morphology and crafter. Cheers and glad you prompted the discussion. ~Sonya
Sleeve slope sleeve slope sleeve slope 🤨
Not to mention the term SHOULDER SLOPE and Sleeve Pitch are the terms I wanted to relay. : / Best, ~Sonya
👍👌👍👌
Thank you, Saleh. ~S
Interesting but the accent is too difficult, maybe talk a bit slower
Sure, noted and thank you. Let me know what the accent "sounds like" if you check back. Thanks, ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS the problem is that, for a non angloamerican, the real accent of mothertongue is very hard. So it's easier to understand a school learned fake accent. It's a common problem for english students this. I know you ve been to Italy, and if you hear student diction is easy, but to fully understand real milanese or neapolitan accent it's less easy...
@@marcolucca6241 I do understand for sure and I will try to apply your advice for any future episodes I do (that is, precise, slightly slower diction). Thank you for taking the time to recommend the adjustment. Cheers! ~Sonya
I'll suggest that her accent (with a bit of Southern U.S. mixed in) is perfectly legible / understandable. Perhaps you should improve your ability in the lingua franca of the world, and certainly the internet.
@@SARTORIALTALKS I'll take you up on that question. I do hear an occasional Southern U.S. bend in a some of your tones. But, I'll file your accent under seductive. ;->