Natural light shooting is all about balance! Not just light & shadow but also color. When you are shooting look for open shade away from swaths of grass in front of you because the light reflected back at the skin is typically green from the grass. Best bet: shooting with open road in front of the subject or sidewalk or even a neutral (read: gray or white) wall will work. Also Jerry's hand technique is something many of us have used for years. I often meter off my hand for my intial test shots; I use my hand to read directional light as well. Use what you got!
Probably for production purposes, to hold his framing and to allow him to pose the couple. I assume they were also capturing his live view through the z8 as he was working but didn’t use it for the final edit.
Thanks a lot! I shoot a lot in very sunny conditions and this video gives me more and more ideas and different ways to achieve better results! Thank you!
Great instructional video. I plan to show this to my hs photography students. For the first series of couple photos, f2.2 is a brave choice, yet the eyes of both appear tack sharp, requiring accurate focusing and eyes on the same plane. A higher fstop would be a bit more forgiving, if needed. Thoughts?
I understand about pointing the face upward toward the (sun)light, but how are you getting the exposure to not either blow out the highlights or shadows go totally black?
What are your tips for working with natural light?
Natural light shooting is all about balance! Not just light & shadow but also color. When you are shooting look for open shade away from swaths of grass in front of you because the light reflected back at the skin is typically green from the grass. Best bet: shooting with open road in front of the subject or sidewalk or even a neutral (read: gray or white) wall will work. Also Jerry's hand technique is something many of us have used for years. I often meter off my hand for my intial test shots; I use my hand to read directional light as well. Use what you got!
Jerry is an amazing educator and a brilliant portrait and wedding photographer.
I AGREE
Also AGREE!
Jerry is the best! Took a class from him many years ago and he was excellent!
Only the best from Jerry.
Thank you, Jerry. Good to see you again.
Fantastic, well-explained tutorial. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Jerry truly delivers - every moment of this video teaches technique well worth the time!
Sensational! Thank you for that interesting video, so much great information, very well explained!
Jerry is one of the best out there. Great content and tips! Thanks to Jerry and BH for the vid!
Glad your enjoying the series, thanks for watching!
Very useful tips.
Thanks Jerry!
👌👍🔝📸
Absolute maestro mate! - every time I see your images I think my gear is faulty! 😉
Great tips always a good communicator
Jerry's the best!
Wonderful 🙂
Great Video!!
Why a tripod in that kind of light?
Frees up your hands... I use one almost always
Probably for production purposes, to hold his framing and to allow him to pose the couple. I assume they were also capturing his live view through the z8 as he was working but didn’t use it for the final edit.
Agreed. Pointless. Just makes for a stiff portrait.
If this is a portrait, it's a picture of a particular person, and good manners require you to introduce her. --BAK
Beautiful tips Jerry. Full sunlight is less scary than many make it out to be, you just need to discriminate!! :D
Jerry knows his stuff.
Thanks a lot! I shoot a lot in very sunny conditions and this video gives me more and more ideas and different ways to achieve better results! Thank you!
Glad we got Jerry to show you some tips. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thank You!!
Thanks for watching!
Joe McNally: ".... a pattern interrupted is even more interesting."
Great instructional video. I plan to show this to my hs photography students.
For the first series of couple photos, f2.2 is a brave choice, yet the eyes of both appear tack sharp, requiring accurate focusing and eyes on the same plane. A higher fstop would be a bit more forgiving, if needed. Thoughts?
I wonder if thid is the same Amberlee from his training course from years ago.
10:45 ISO 30 Why why why?
I understand about pointing the face upward toward the (sun)light, but how are you getting the exposure to not either blow out the highlights or shadows go totally black?
And we have back seat whiners saying we need f1.2 lenses as a first.
What device is in the hot shoe of the camera? Isit a remote trigger for the shutter?
No sense in wasting sensor pixels, either.