My friend has been mentioning problems with his sebring all of which are consistent with your chrysler, dodge, mitsubisbi 2.5 knocking, pinging and stalling vid from a few weeks ago. He has had 3 mechanics look at it and give up because there are no DTCs. The hour long video changed my directional mindset, I was going to look for a no com and go from there. I dont have a scope, just a simple handheld scanner with live data capabilities. This vid is exactly what I needed to confirm circuit integrity with a dvom. You Sir are very much appreciated, thank you for your time and effort!
I just did a primary chain and balance shaft chain on a 2.2 GM Ecotec engine. When I first tried to start the car it wouldn't run too well. Got a P0340 code. I was thinking I made a mistake and missed a tooth on reassembly. Turns out I actually had a shorted cam sensor. I followed this exact process using my scope. 0.71v plugged in and 5v unplugged. No square wave during a crank. Powers and grounds were under good under load. I love this channel and the premium one. Great information as always.
I am a ex Royal Automobile Club Patrol (Auto Club) I'd just like to say that this video although to some very technical, would save you money in the long run. So many forums online talk a load of BS and at last I have seen someone without greed, show a way forward. The USA is a big place and dealerships can be only on the coast states. Well done. If you find a old Bosch Distributor with the hall effect, you can show the "window" clearly. But basically it's a gap within the "magnetic field that switches the transistor to ground". Nearly all circuits are ground switched as the 5 volts is used as a stable voltage opposed to the 12 volts. Which does vary with the starter engaged.
This video is awesome, man. It's so hard to find a Technician who REALLY knows his (her) onions like this that I wouldn't trust most to service a walking stick. I've done a video showing the DIYer how to get a good indication if the CKp is kaput and was thinking about doing something a little more comprehensive with a voltmeter, but instead I might just share this, it;s so good.
Came across scannerdanner because of a misfire problem I was having and between 2 “professional” shops and $800 later still had a misfire so I took matters into my own hands I was told that my coil packs were fine Well they were not New coils problem gone I can not thank the RUclips community and scannerdanner enough for making the content they do Now I just want to learn it all So my family friends and I will never get robbed by another mechanic 👨🏻🔧
Finally, someone explaining how the 3 pin crank sensor "in detail" ty so much for explanation on the diagnosis ,including the 5 volt rule and solenoid checks!!100-100
@ExoVCDS I try my best to keep everyone engaged, sometimes it's just not possible. It is disheartening sometimes. Thanks for your comment though, it made me laugh. :)
Brother you are Bad Mr. I just love your style. In my opinion you are a automotive technician. Mr. Brother Man: I hard core salute You.in my younger years I’d love to be on your team. You spoke clear, you explained clear and I know confidence and ability in an individual soul stay blessed and keep on pushing. And thank you
I followed your instructions and i found out my computer does not communicate,i open my computer and i check it and found you're right,the computer is the culprit,and then i search you tube about PCM why they fail,one reason (of so many i guess)is the capacitor,so i tried,i changed the three capacitor inside,now my jeep runs well,i hope it helps.
So I'm working on a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2 engine. I'm a DIYer and I just did the sensor ground test like yours. In your test before cranking the engine and the DVOM hooked up, it read .009 millivolts, mine read .018, double that. I that normal for the truck? Wiring is my weak point, but thanks to you and a few others I've learned a thing or two and want to learn more. I acquired this truck free after the owner got fed up and let it go after it was stolen and recovered. I had to replace the ignition after it was punched by the thieves. It has a crank no start issue, It also had a "no bus" issue so I replaced the computer and solved that. Trying to get this beater running so I can use it as a cheap household projects truck. Keep up the great work you are doing by educating us.
@@ScannerDanner Thanks, I only got to that point, then it started raining. Working in my driveway so I'm at the mercy of the weather. Rain today and tomorrow but thanks. Like I said keep up the good work I'm getting an education from your videos and I'm sure others are too.
Very informative brother! I check my no spark on my old volvo morrow, by doing exact these tests, its a 1992 and the sensor is on a hot spot on flywheel behind motor, may well be 30 years old and 250 ooomiles heatcycles...i do the diagnostics first, before trhrowing the other in, its rewarding to understand how they work / stop working, and the obvious tests to isolate the problem, great thx from Belgium Europe🇧🇪🍺
TPS and MAP sensor 5 v supply are okay but today my van won't start it, checked fuses and relay good, I jumped pin 30 to 87 the starter worked. thank you for your replay Paul I really appreciate. I will replace the pcm, and see if that it fix..
I love all of your videos and I am having a crank sensor problem with my dad's jeep. This helped me out a bunch! I would like to suggest you add some tags to this video so that it's more easily searched in RUclips. Thanks again for the great video.
on the older ones they used an 8-9v power feed to the hall effects. either way I don't like 7v. double check that again and make sure your meter has a good ground and also give me the exact number. (example 7.99V is a lot better than 7.23) you should be closer to 9 v on your system in the feed circuit only. The signal is still a 5 v pull down design (sensor unplugged you should read 5)
That is a good question David and I didn't notice that until I uploaded the video. I am not sure I can answer it. What I can say though is some inputs are not updated on scan data until there is an RPM signal. With me providing a false RPM input, this could be a factor. What I don't know is why the numbers would drop to zero.
Thanks for the offer! I am in SoCal though. BUT if you watch my last video, you can see me find the short after hours of being stranded on the side of the road last night. I needed light and couldnt see the angle at the harness i was testing, so my cell camera screen and light worked out perfectly. ;-) Thank you again for all the videos you post!
Did this on my 2003 Dakota and got not ASD Relay activation. It had the 5vdc like you did, both the feed and the PCM return or signal line. All the wires ohm out and I tried the ground pulsing on the PCM feed line and the ASD still didn't activate. The ASD ines all check good to the PCM and the Fuse panel, fuse good tool. I also have a NO BUS on the Instrument panel, 920 and 921 codes pop as well. My only conclusion at this point is the PCM must be bad. I reconnected the CKP and ran an oscope on the CKP to PCM feed line, and no pulses came out of the connector, so I probably have a dual problem, PCM and CKP. Thanks for sharing, I enjoyed the instruction. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@Jamison Grotzinger i just hacked your ip adress server and the first reply to your comment and they are both from the same adress no im not gonna look thru your pics lol 🙄🤫
Another good video. I used this bypass test today on a 97 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 I ended up having a bad cam sensor which it was in the distributor The good part was the one I got from the part store was bad as well LOL It would've really thrown a normal parts changer around the bend I'm sure But since I had done the bypass test I knew that I had a bad sensor
excellent information Mr Paul. I have learned a lot of tips with your videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. God bless your family and you too. greetings fron Tamaulipas Mexico. sorry for my Englis writing.
ScannerDanner hi Paul my supply voltage tested 4.92.i haven't tested with key on to see if my voltage dropped. Does it have to be exactly 5v .or is this close enough? Thanks in advance
What is the feed wire voltage? Do you have a steady 9 volts? If so check either the TPS or the MAP and let me know if one of the wires is reading 5v there.
Paul, I have notice that in the last part of this video when you are doing the bypass, every time you touch the sensor signal wire with the test light to ground the IAT(V) and the COOLANT(V) goes to CERO! It is exactly at 14:50 on the video. Why is that?
I believe the PCM is behind the passenger kick panel right? If so take a look at the connectors and make sure they are not corroded. I had a 96 with a windshield leak right onto the computer and caused to crazy stuff. BTW we are in Pittsburgh PA if your close we would love to help.
Hi Paul, since this is a 5v pull down hall effect sensor, it's easy to ground it with no danger by doing so but, is there a 5v pull up design? If so, I'm guessing that I can't use the test light from B+ since its 12v. Can I jump the 5v power feed to the signal wire to do this bypass testing??
No danger in grounding a 5v pull-down circuit, even with a jumper wire. I've never seen a 5v pull-up but if there was one, you could still use your test light and tap into the 5v ref circuit from another sensor.
ScannerDanner hi Paul. I measured my 5v reference at 4.92v (No crank ,key on) is this close enough. I was told that the reference voltage is never perfect. And I should be fine.i basically wanted a second opinion thank you in advance
thanks so much, i watch all your videos and you are teaching an old dog new tricks i have speed sensor problems on my isuzu trooper transfer case (TOD), i got to get under the truck, but i ain't buying a part i don't need
ScannerDanner hi Paul followed your test to the letter. Everything looked great. Until I got to the sensor ground test .engine running kept flucuating between 14 and 26 millivolts. When I first started. (ASD removed) for a split second it spiked to 93 then would go down to 14... I didn't see anywhere near the readings you had on that chrysler.. bad ground maybe? Car does start and run .but keep getting the p0340 cam code. And has a stumble .And bucks and hesitation.. I've tried just about everything. It's a 06 jeep liberty thank you
just a question Paul as I see .378v without the key in, on the crk signal wire I thinking to replace the pcm. also did the by pass test and hear nothing, any advise thank you.
Danner It is Funny How Those CPS Always Go Bad On A Jeep I Just Fixed One The 2 dealers Said No CPS And 2 Shops i Found It 98 L6 In The Side Of The Bell Housing 1 Bolt I Tested It.Was Deader Then A doornail Lol Changed It Runs like A Champ !! Good To See Some Of Your videos Are Still Here !!! I Send All My Do It Them Selfers To You !! I Owe You And Your Son a Big Dinner !! Always Following You,Best
I chased a fishbite miss forever on my 04 jeep. then one day started jumping and jerking especially on takeoff. as I was hooking scope to crank sensor, I moved heater hoses for better access, and found engine ground loose on engine stud. cleaned and tightened. jerking gone, as well as fishbite. Signal looked good. must get longer leads for testing while driving tho.
Thanks for this. I had similar issue but on probing the reference voltage with sensor pulled out, 5v appeared on both signal and supply. The ground was fine. What could be wrong?
Awesome explanation love the video. I have a question about an issue I'm having. Testing both power and signal wires without the sensors plugged in should read 5 v right. Well when I do the bypass test the cam reacts like it should but the crank reacts to both signal and power wires tripping the relays on both wires but what's weird is that aren't they connected together with one power feed feeding both sensors. Or actually the speed sensor as well right? So if the wires were touching then wouldn't it have the same affect on the other sensor wire harness or does the signals relay back to the ECU separately
I wish your videos had been around years ago when I was struggling to teach myself all this stuff. I watch now just to stay fresh. Thanks for doing this. ps, the cheapo Ideal meter made me laugh; I can't afford a Pico scope, but I do have a Fluke and an OTC Solaris
I realized I had rambled a book. Here is where I am in a kinda condensed cpl paragraphs. I have in my small arsenal a test light and a woods multi meter and a Haynes manual and a basic amount of smarts, for a old man. I was a Grinch this Xmas and took a gamble on a 1999 Dodge Durango 5.9l with no-start, no spark and a No Buss code. The couple I bought from said it had just quit on the previous owner at 179,000. They (couple) had a fuel pump installed and said it ran for about 600 miles and quit. He said he did some (testing) and concluded a bad crank sensor. Replaced and no start. He farted around and then replaced the Cam sensor with same results thus giving up and offered it for sale. He had however removed factory radio and installed some high tech thing and changed out lights for new high tech also. I have had good luck with most things I have tackled with the tremendous you tube help provides us back yard guys. Thus far following guidelines and I verified: I can hear the fuel pump relay kick when Plug/unplugging relay. Cheater way also switched with a neighboring one. I unscrewed cap and checked for fuel at fuel rail, which I do have however, no volt readings on fuel injectors. I also have no voltage reading at coil. Crk and Cam sensors - Unplugged test light to ground, I have 5v on power /reference wire and 5v between sensor grnd and power/ref wire. Key on- still unplugged I also have 5v on load/signal wire. Crk sensor plugged up back probed load/signal wire cranking it goes to 0v and stays - stop crank and it goes back to 5v. According to many that indicates a bad sensor which is possible as previous owner bought from Auto Zone (box and old sensor left in SUV). Have had and heard of many bad parts from them. But I’m not sure. Crk sensor unplugged Test light to ground I brush light prob across load/signal wire and for the first time I hear and feel the relay Labled ASD clicking. This one according to Haynes manual is the coil and fuel injector one. 2 things that questions me; It seems I have more than usual ark/sparking as I connect battery terminals. I ran into same thing while working on a neighbors riding mower and found the starter solenoid had lost a ground; Rusty connection. Next- is the No Buss affecting my test results? Watch many video’s to help guide me so much that my head is in spinning out of control forgetting and double checking overload. My testing has me thinking a ground issue but unsure which way next. I remember you with that AES tool that helped find the frayed wire kinda in wheel well. I know you said you had the scanner hooked up and when tried to duplicate had issues. I am at your mercy for a direction. Best; Tom
James, this one will be best handled on my forum. I can't do back and forth messages here as RUclips's system sucks. They do not email me when there is a reply. My forum is free to join. www.scannerdanner.com/forum.html Thanks! Hope to see you there.
Hi Paul, a bad crank sensor only will do no signal right, but with the sensor plug in the 5V should be there or not? is the wire is good with the sensor unplug the 5V should bee there..
I have a 1999 suburban C1500 5.7L. Crank Position connector disconnected. Is ground supposed to disconnect when ignition is on? Ground is there when ignition is off.
big fan of all ur vids. been invaluable for a shade tree like me. something I haven't been able to find are some wiring diagrams, please point me in the right direction
I have 5 volts in negative cable on crank sensor in LS2, checked the ecu and its negative. Can it be bad sensor ? Car just stopped and doesn't start again. I check all loom and all sensors
im only getting 2.7 volts max and it does goto 0 when nicking the key . think it could be a bad ground somewhere or bad ecm output voltage ? all power to ecm and fuses same as battery volts 12.5
Had a 2014 altima, no spark. Changed both crank and cam sensors because the car has 180,000 miles. Still no spark and expected it to be the ECM. Nope, found out after market sensors don't work in Nissan cars.
I'm a little lost on mine.. i did the remote wire test. Key on engine off. Positive to remote wire, negative to the battery -.. it showed 5 volts. I bumped the started a couple times to double check. Same result. What am I missing here? If you don't mind. (Yes the power side also showed 5 volts)
Hi Paul 98 vanager 3.0 still no spark, I been reading your book really good. I just follow your instruction all power to pcm and 9 and 5 V supply and ground are okay, this what I found cran sensor signal with key off .378V key on 68.0 MV speed sensor key off 00.7 MV key on 07.4 MV I just can't find the speed sensor location, little help please.
Im confused im looking at a wire diagram for this and the red wire says 5v supply and the black /white says signal but u keep says the red wire is signal so is the wiring diagram wrong? when u diconect the plugg from the sensor then it reads 5v constantly so when u ground it with jumper ur acting like sensor and comolete the circuit.
hey paul would it be more accurate if i put a rachet on crank pully and slow turn crank by hand since meter cant keep up with crank? then just look for the 0-5v change? (depending on if its a 5v signal that is)
One thing not mentioned is....if your crank sensor is bad and your anti theft engauges, you cant check sensor while cranking car because security wont allow car to crank
What if the 5 and 0 volts alternate every couple times wave the wrench in front of the sensor? So when I'd pull the wrench away it would stay at 0 (well .3) volts. Tap it a couple more times it would stay at 5 when I pulled the wrench away. It keeps alternating "polarity" The cam sensor does the same thing. Is this normal? Great video thank you.
I did this test on my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the voltage randomly bounced around from 5.3-5.4V to below 3.9V on the power wire (red wire) does this mean the crank sensor is bad?
ScannerDanner I bumped it for about a minute or so (probably 20+ times) and never got a reading higher than 0.9V on the signal wire from the crank sensor. On the power wire (red wire) it’s 5.2V with the key in the on position but bounces between 5.4V and ~3.8V when cranking. Bad crank sensor or something else like bad PCM?
@@TylerrFTW the power wire should be a steady voltage but if you are using the block for the ground on your multimeter instead of battery negative, that can explain the lower voltage on the feed wire (block voltage from the starter can be as high as 1v or more on initial crank) On the signal wire, with the sensor disconnected, it should go to near 5v, does it? If so, it does sound like the sensor is messed up. You should have a crank sensor code too
ScannerDanner ScannerDanner I’m using the negative battery terminal as ground. The signal wire with the sensor disconnected is right at 5.2V. The power wire with the sensor disconnected is also right at 5.2V. The only thing that’s weird is that there’s no engine code for it. Is it possible the sensor is bad without triggering a code? Thank you so much for your help, you’ve been a lifesaver and have earned a new sub 👍🏼
@@TylerrFTW it is strange to me that you are not setting a code, but if you are sure that the signal wire is 0 all the time, plugged in, regardless of reluctor position, and you are reading 5v unplugged on the signal, then this confirms the circuit is working as designed and it does sound like the sensor is shorted. Remove the sensor and plug it in and move a heavy piece of metal past the end of it and see if you can make a signal
How do you test brand new one before installing it? I wish you had one with a bad ckp and you tested the new one before putting it back in. My new ckp doesn't have any magnetism, but the old one does. So I am wondering if it is even any good. Any ideas?
Hi Paul, quick question. Since its a pull down design voltage appears as soon as sensor is unplugged. Question is if the signal wire was shorted to ground (external short) we would not see this 5v appearing with sensor unplugged. How do we then find out if it is a pull down or pull up design. I suppose we can check another hall effect sensor on the same vehicle or I guess depends on what the fault is stating regarding sensor signal.
Great question! This information is not readily available, so if you didn't know, I teach to use a test light as your bypass tool, and then in your example you would connect it to battery positive and try to trigger the circuit, but the light would light up indicating a short to ground. On a pull-up design (which is what you would think with 0v unplugged), a test light to battery positive should NOT light the light. Hope that makes sense. If you're interested, this would be chapter 2 and chapter 21 material in my classes at www.scannerdanner.com Thank you!
One quick question. Which side of the connector were you checking with the T-pin? The sensor side? or the harness side? I'm asking because I'm not sure about which side I should be checking during the bypass test. I'm guessing I should be plugged into the harness side. TIA
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My friend has been mentioning problems with his sebring all of which are consistent with your chrysler, dodge, mitsubisbi 2.5 knocking, pinging and stalling vid from a few weeks ago. He has had 3 mechanics look at it and give up because there are no DTCs. The hour long video changed my directional mindset, I was going to look for a no com and go from there. I dont have a scope, just a simple handheld scanner with live data capabilities. This vid is exactly what I needed to confirm circuit integrity with a dvom. You Sir are very much appreciated, thank you for your time and effort!
1111111¹q1
You & south main auto are the top channels for automotive diagnostic services. 👍🥇
It's rare to find a mechanic that knows their sh#t. I'm working on my families now. Bravo sir.
shit how many families you got
I just did a primary chain and balance shaft chain on a 2.2 GM Ecotec engine. When I first tried to start the car it wouldn't run too well. Got a P0340 code. I was thinking I made a mistake and missed a tooth on reassembly. Turns out I actually had a shorted cam sensor. I followed this exact process using my scope. 0.71v plugged in and 5v unplugged. No square wave during a crank. Powers and grounds were under good under load.
I love this channel and the premium one. Great information as always.
I am a ex Royal Automobile Club Patrol (Auto Club) I'd just like to say that this video although to some very technical, would save you money in the long run. So many forums online talk a load of BS and at last I have seen someone without greed, show a way forward. The USA is a big place and dealerships can be only on the coast states. Well done. If you find a old Bosch Distributor with the hall effect, you can show the "window" clearly. But basically it's a gap within the "magnetic field that switches the transistor to ground". Nearly all circuits are ground switched as the 5 volts is used as a stable voltage opposed to the 12 volts. Which does vary with the starter engaged.
This video is awesome, man. It's so hard to find a Technician who REALLY knows his (her) onions like this that I wouldn't trust most to service a walking stick. I've done a video showing the DIYer how to get a good indication if the CKp is kaput and was thinking about doing something a little more comprehensive with a voltmeter, but instead I might just share this, it;s so good.
Came across scannerdanner because of a misfire problem I was having and between 2 “professional” shops and $800 later still had a misfire so I took matters into my own hands
I was told that my coil packs were fine
Well they were not
New coils problem gone
I can not thank the RUclips community and scannerdanner enough for making the content they do
Now I just want to learn it all
So my family friends and I will never get robbed by another mechanic 👨🏻🔧
Indeed brother
Finally, someone explaining how the 3 pin crank sensor "in detail" ty so much for explanation on the diagnosis ,including the 5 volt rule and solenoid checks!!100-100
@ExoVCDS I try my best to keep everyone engaged, sometimes it's just not possible. It is disheartening sometimes.
Thanks for your comment though, it made me laugh. :)
Brother you are Bad Mr. I just love your style. In my opinion you are a automotive technician. Mr. Brother Man: I hard core salute You.in my younger years I’d love to be on your team. You spoke clear, you explained clear and I know confidence and ability in an individual soul stay blessed and keep on pushing. And thank you
You can use a test light, most pull-up hall effects are 12v anyway. Even if it was 5v you can still use a test light with no harm.
Great video for someone who doesn't have a scope thank for your labor and explanation
I followed your instructions and i found out my computer does not communicate,i open my computer and i check it and found you're right,the computer is the culprit,and then i search you tube about PCM why they fail,one reason (of so many i guess)is the capacitor,so i tried,i changed the three capacitor inside,now my jeep runs well,i hope it helps.
So I'm working on a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2 engine. I'm a DIYer and I just did the sensor ground test like yours. In your test before cranking the engine and the DVOM hooked up, it read .009 millivolts, mine read .018, double that. I that normal for the truck? Wiring is my weak point, but thanks to you and a few others I've learned a thing or two and want to learn more. I acquired this truck free after the owner got fed up and let it go after it was stolen and recovered. I had to replace the ignition after it was punched by the thieves. It has a crank no start issue, It also had a "no bus" issue so I replaced the computer and solved that. Trying to get this beater running so I can use it as a cheap household projects truck. Keep up the great work you are doing by educating us.
.1 (100mv) or less is the standard for sensor and computer grounds. Your .018 = 18mv and is totally fine
@@ScannerDanner Thanks, I only got to that point, then it started raining. Working in my driveway so I'm at the mercy of the weather. Rain today and tomorrow but thanks. Like I said keep up the good work I'm getting an education from your videos and I'm sure others are too.
Very informative brother! I check my no spark on my old volvo morrow, by doing exact these tests, its a 1992 and the sensor is on a hot spot on flywheel behind motor, may well be 30 years old and 250 ooomiles heatcycles...i do the diagnostics first, before trhrowing the other in, its rewarding to understand how they work / stop working, and the obvious tests to isolate the problem, great thx from Belgium Europe🇧🇪🍺
TPS and MAP sensor 5 v supply are okay but today my van won't start it, checked fuses and relay good, I jumped pin 30 to 87 the starter worked. thank you for your replay Paul I really appreciate. I will replace the pcm, and see if that it fix..
Before you do that make sure the signal wire to the CKP sensor is not shorted to ground.
I love all of your videos and I am having a crank sensor problem with my dad's jeep. This helped me out a bunch! I would like to suggest you add some tags to this video so that it's more easily searched in RUclips. Thanks again for the great video.
on the older ones they used an 8-9v power feed to the hall effects. either way I don't like 7v.
double check that again and make sure your meter has a good ground and also give me the exact number. (example 7.99V is a lot better than 7.23)
you should be closer to 9 v on your system in the feed circuit only. The signal is still a 5 v pull down design (sensor unplugged you should read 5)
Thank You for this info. Very good .
That is a good question David and I didn't notice that until I uploaded the video. I am not sure I can answer it. What I can say though is some inputs are not updated on scan data until there is an RPM signal. With me providing a false RPM input, this could be a factor. What I don't know is why the numbers would drop to zero.
This video is very very clear and simple to understand
Thanks for the offer! I am in SoCal though. BUT if you watch my last video, you can see me find the short after hours of being stranded on the side of the road last night. I needed light and couldnt see the angle at the harness i was testing, so my cell camera screen and light worked out perfectly. ;-) Thank you again for all the videos you post!
Did this on my 2003 Dakota and got not ASD Relay activation. It had the 5vdc like you did, both the feed and the PCM return or signal line. All the wires ohm out and I tried the ground pulsing on the PCM feed line and the ASD still didn't activate. The ASD ines all check good to the PCM and the Fuse panel, fuse good tool. I also have a NO BUS on the Instrument panel, 920 and 921 codes pop as well. My only conclusion at this point is the PCM must be bad. I reconnected the CKP and ran an oscope on the CKP to PCM feed line, and no pulses came out of the connector, so I probably have a dual problem, PCM and CKP. Thanks for sharing, I enjoyed the instruction. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I watch the video of the teacher, looking forward to the last day as a student
I come from Vietnam
@Jamison Grotzinger i just hacked your ip adress server and the first reply to your comment and they are both from the same adress no im not gonna look thru your pics lol 🙄🤫
Another good video. I used this bypass test today on a 97 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 I ended up having a bad cam sensor which it was in the distributor The good part was the one I got from the part store was bad as well LOL It would've really thrown a normal parts changer around the bend I'm sure But since I had done the bypass test I knew that I had a bad sensor
Pick-up
man wish you were closer. i would take your classes for sure.
The most important part I needed to see,,,,,,,, Kinda difficult to show you that.
Anything I can help clarify?
excellent information Mr Paul. I have learned a lot of tips with your videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
God bless your family and you too. greetings fron Tamaulipas Mexico.
sorry for my Englis writing.
Your English is fine my friend. God bless you too
ScannerDanner hi Paul my supply voltage tested 4.92.i haven't tested with key on to see if my voltage dropped. Does it have to be exactly 5v .or is this close enough? Thanks in advance
No problem at all at 4.92 v
I've seen them as low as 4.7
ScannerDanner thank you so much sir
ScannerDanner is a cam sensor test the same?
You are a brilliant teacher.
Thank you Bill!
@DEFiANCE665 V8 Jeep is all I remember, same test on all Chrysler Hall Effects though, other than the signature of the waveform
What is the feed wire voltage? Do you have a steady 9 volts? If so check either the TPS or the MAP and let me know if one of the wires is reading 5v there.
yes it is unplugged, I thinking to cut the wire from the pcm just to see if the voltage disappear, because it connect to tcm also.
Amazing video, super detailed. Thanks so much for sharing!
Love your channel. Mechanic from San Antonio , Texas
SUBSTANTIAL Sir ScannerDanner
Thank you👍
Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Paul, I have notice that in the last part of this video when you are doing the bypass, every time you touch the sensor signal wire with the test light to ground the IAT(V) and the COOLANT(V) goes to CERO! It is exactly at 14:50 on the video.
Why is that?
great explanation. respect to what you re teaching here
Another good video. Wish I would've watched this yesterday had one in my bay today with a bad cam on a Chrysler could have used this to help.
Very good instructor
I believe the PCM is behind the passenger kick panel right? If so take a look at the connectors and make sure they are not corroded. I had a 96 with a windshield leak right onto the computer and caused to crazy stuff.
BTW we are in Pittsburgh PA if your close we would love to help.
Is that with the sensor unplugged?
@ShiversRSS any particular tags you would recommend? i did put some in but could definitely use some suggestions
Thanks Paul just bought your book really needed to brush up on this topic
Rick Chapman thank you Rick!
cool man, glad you fixed it
Hi Paul, since this is a 5v pull down hall effect sensor, it's easy to ground it with no danger by doing so but, is there a 5v pull up design? If so, I'm guessing that I can't use the test light from B+ since its 12v. Can I jump the 5v power feed to the signal wire to do this bypass testing??
No danger in grounding a 5v pull-down circuit, even with a jumper wire. I've never seen a 5v pull-up but if there was one, you could still use your test light and tap into the 5v ref circuit from another sensor.
ScannerDanner got it, thanks.
ScannerDanner hi Paul. I measured my 5v reference at 4.92v (No crank ,key on) is this close enough. I was told that the reference voltage is never perfect. And I should be fine.i basically wanted a second opinion thank you in advance
thanks so much, i watch all your videos and you are teaching an old dog new tricks
i have speed sensor problems on my isuzu trooper transfer case (TOD), i got to get under the truck, but i ain't buying a part i don't need
this video provided the diagnostic procedure I needed. Saved much time & effort. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
ScannerDanner hi Paul followed your test to the letter. Everything looked great. Until I got to the sensor ground test .engine running kept flucuating between 14 and 26 millivolts. When I first started. (ASD removed) for a split second it spiked to 93 then would go down to 14... I didn't see anywhere near the readings you had on that chrysler.. bad ground maybe? Car does start and run .but keep getting the p0340 cam code. And has a stumble .And bucks and hesitation.. I've tried just about everything. It's a 06 jeep liberty thank you
@DEFiANCE665 For sure, no problem at all. Thank you
Thanks Paul,its a great help,you're a good instructor,you explained very well,,,
Great video for a DIY
just a question Paul as I see .378v without the key in, on the crk signal wire I thinking to replace the pcm. also did the by pass test and hear nothing, any advise thank you.
Thank you very much for making this video!!!
Danner It is Funny How Those CPS Always Go Bad On A Jeep I Just Fixed One The 2 dealers Said No CPS And 2 Shops i Found It 98 L6 In The Side Of The Bell Housing 1 Bolt I Tested It.Was Deader Then A doornail Lol Changed It Runs like A Champ !! Good To See Some Of Your videos Are Still Here !!! I Send All My Do It Them Selfers To You !! I Owe You And Your Son a Big Dinner !! Always Following You,Best
I chased a fishbite miss forever on my 04 jeep. then one day started jumping and jerking especially on takeoff. as I was hooking scope to crank sensor, I moved heater hoses for better access, and found engine ground loose on engine stud. cleaned and tightened. jerking gone, as well as fishbite. Signal looked good. must get longer leads for testing while driving tho.
great info for techs and dyi people.thanks for great video.
Thanks for this. I had similar issue but on probing the reference voltage with sensor pulled out, 5v appeared on both signal and supply. The ground was fine. What could be wrong?
Awesome explanation love the video. I have a question about an issue I'm having. Testing both power and signal wires without the sensors plugged in should read 5 v right. Well when I do the bypass test the cam reacts like it should but the crank reacts to both signal and power wires tripping the relays on both wires but what's weird is that aren't they connected together with one power feed feeding both sensors. Or actually the speed sensor as well right? So if the wires were touching then wouldn't it have the same affect on the other sensor wire harness or does the signals relay back to the ECU separately
So with your bypass test, you are jumping those circuits to ground? You shouldn't do that to the reference circuit.
I wish your videos had been around years ago when I was struggling to teach myself all this stuff. I watch now just to stay fresh. Thanks for doing this.
ps, the cheapo Ideal meter made me laugh; I can't afford a Pico scope, but I do have a Fluke and an OTC Solaris
Thank you mate, this video helped me diagnosing starting issue with my Jeep Grand Cherokee :)
Is it possible to use the Hertz setting on the multimeter for cam/crank signal?
I realized I had rambled a book. Here is where I am in a kinda condensed cpl paragraphs.
I have in my small arsenal a test light and a woods multi meter and a Haynes manual and a basic amount of smarts, for a old man.
I was a Grinch this Xmas and took a gamble on a 1999 Dodge Durango 5.9l with no-start, no spark and a No Buss code. The couple I bought from said it had just quit on the previous owner at 179,000. They (couple) had a fuel pump installed and said it ran for about 600 miles and quit. He said he did some (testing) and concluded a bad crank sensor. Replaced and no start. He farted around and then replaced the Cam sensor with same results thus giving up and offered it for sale. He had however removed factory radio and installed some high tech thing and changed out lights for new high tech also.
I have had good luck with most things I have tackled with the tremendous you tube help provides us back yard guys.
Thus far following guidelines and I verified:
I can hear the fuel pump relay kick when Plug/unplugging relay. Cheater way also switched with a neighboring one.
I unscrewed cap and checked for fuel at fuel rail, which I do have however, no volt readings on fuel injectors. I also have no voltage reading at coil.
Crk and Cam sensors - Unplugged test light to ground, I have 5v on power /reference wire and 5v between sensor grnd and power/ref wire. Key on- still unplugged I also have 5v on load/signal wire.
Crk sensor plugged up back probed load/signal wire cranking it goes to 0v and stays - stop crank and it goes back to 5v. According to many that indicates a bad sensor which is possible as previous owner bought from Auto Zone (box and old sensor left in SUV). Have had and heard of many bad parts from them. But I’m not sure.
Crk sensor unplugged Test light to ground I brush light prob across load/signal wire and for the first time I hear and feel the relay Labled ASD clicking. This one according to Haynes manual is the coil and fuel injector one.
2 things that questions me; It seems I have more than usual ark/sparking as I connect battery terminals. I ran into same thing while working on a neighbors riding mower and found the starter solenoid had lost a ground; Rusty connection. Next- is the No Buss affecting my test results?
Watch many video’s to help guide me so much that my head is in spinning out of control forgetting and double checking overload.
My testing has me thinking a ground issue but unsure which way next. I remember you with that AES tool that helped find the frayed wire kinda in wheel well. I know you said you had the scanner hooked up and when tried to duplicate had issues.
I am at your mercy for a direction. Best; Tom
James, this one will be best handled on my forum. I can't do back and forth messages here as RUclips's system sucks. They do not email me when there is a reply. My forum is free to join. www.scannerdanner.com/forum.html
Thanks! Hope to see you there.
How about if a crankshaft sensor reads 8V on the CKP sensor and Car battery is at 11.9V ? What should I do? Car is 2006 Honda Accord Euro CL9
Hi Paul, a bad crank sensor only will do no signal right, but with the sensor plug in the 5V should be there or not? is the wire is good with the sensor unplug the 5V should bee there..
Outstanding instructional video thank you sir
Your the man bro ! good instructor
Thank you.
looks like a 5.2 v8 like the one i have i have no spark or fuel pump working help thank you
Great video, thank you!
Ce serait bien de pouvoir traduire les vidéos...merci de penser aux autres
Also is it possible for you to show and explain the wiring diagram for a 2006 Dodge charger 2.7
Ur great master. I will be study a lot :)
I have a 1999 suburban C1500 5.7L. Crank Position connector disconnected. Is ground supposed to disconnect when ignition is on? Ground is there when ignition is off.
big fan of all ur vids. been invaluable for a shade tree like me. something I haven't been able to find are some wiring diagrams, please point me in the right direction
Is it a coincidence or does the tach fail to indicate if the crankshaft position sensor fails? I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4.
Tach movement is a guide only
I have 5 volts in negative cable on crank sensor in LS2, checked the ecu and its negative. Can it be bad sensor ? Car just stopped and doesn't start again. I check all loom and all sensors
You have 5v on a sensor ground? Check that same wire at the computer connector next
im only getting 2.7 volts max and it does goto 0 when nicking the key . think it could be a bad ground somewhere or bad ecm output voltage ? all power to ecm and fuses same as battery volts 12.5
what does the signal wire read with the sensor unplugged? It should be very near 5v
THANKS FOR YOU GOOD EXPLANATION
Had a 2014 altima, no spark. Changed both crank and cam sensors because the car has 180,000 miles. Still no spark and expected it to be the ECM. Nope, found out after market sensors don't work in Nissan cars.
I'm a little lost on mine.. i did the remote wire test. Key on engine off. Positive to remote wire, negative to the battery -.. it showed 5 volts. I bumped the started a couple times to double check. Same result. What am I missing here? If you don't mind. (Yes the power side also showed 5 volts)
Hi Paul 98 vanager 3.0 still no spark, I been reading your book really good. I just follow your instruction all power to pcm and 9 and 5 V supply and ground are okay, this what I found cran sensor signal with key off .378V key on 68.0 MV speed sensor key off 00.7 MV key on 07.4 MV I just can't find the speed sensor location, little help please.
Im confused im looking at a wire diagram for this and the red wire says 5v supply and the black /white says signal but u keep says the red wire is signal so is the wiring diagram wrong? when u diconect the plugg from the sensor then it reads 5v constantly so when u ground it with jumper ur acting like sensor and comolete the circuit.
I think that sensor has a Hall Effect rather than a coil./ magnet.
Not getting any reading 5v or battery volt from crankshaft wiring, getting the continuity
hey paul would it be more accurate if i put a rachet on crank pully and slow turn crank by hand since meter cant keep up with crank? then just look for the 0-5v change? (depending on if its a 5v signal that is)
Just curious does the crank sensor pickup have the same number of windows as there are cylinders?
No sir, not anymore.
@@ScannerDanner thanks for reply.
One thing not mentioned is....if your crank sensor is bad and your anti theft engauges, you cant check sensor while cranking car because security wont allow car to crank
What if the 5 and 0 volts alternate every couple times wave the wrench in front of the sensor? So when I'd pull the wrench away it would stay at 0 (well .3) volts. Tap it a couple more times it would stay at 5 when I pulled the wrench away. It keeps alternating "polarity" The cam sensor does the same thing. Is this normal? Great video thank you.
Not at all. What problems are you having?
Why was the IAT and coolant temp voltage dropping to 0v when you were doing the bypass test at the end of the video?
if you have a 12v ref voltage and it drops to around 11.2 during crank with a no start condition should i look to the starter?
I did this test on my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the voltage randomly bounced around from 5.3-5.4V to below 3.9V on the power wire (red wire) does this mean the crank sensor is bad?
bump the key like I did to see if it will pull down to zero
ScannerDanner I bumped it for about a minute or so (probably 20+ times) and never got a reading higher than 0.9V on the signal wire from the crank sensor. On the power wire (red wire) it’s 5.2V with the key in the on position but bounces between 5.4V and ~3.8V when cranking. Bad crank sensor or something else like bad PCM?
@@TylerrFTW the power wire should be a steady voltage but if you are using the block for the ground on your multimeter instead of battery negative, that can explain the lower voltage on the feed wire (block voltage from the starter can be as high as 1v or more on initial crank)
On the signal wire, with the sensor disconnected, it should go to near 5v, does it? If so, it does sound like the sensor is messed up.
You should have a crank sensor code too
ScannerDanner ScannerDanner I’m using the negative battery terminal as ground. The signal wire with the sensor disconnected is right at 5.2V. The power wire with the sensor disconnected is also right at 5.2V. The only thing that’s weird is that there’s no engine code for it. Is it possible the sensor is bad without triggering a code? Thank you so much for your help, you’ve been a lifesaver and have earned a new sub 👍🏼
@@TylerrFTW it is strange to me that you are not setting a code, but if you are sure that the signal wire is 0 all the time, plugged in, regardless of reluctor position, and you are reading 5v unplugged on the signal, then this confirms the circuit is working as designed and it does sound like the sensor is shorted.
Remove the sensor and plug it in and move a heavy piece of metal past the end of it and see if you can make a signal
Gold 🥇. New sub - new student.
Welcome! Looking forward to answering your questions along the way
@@ScannerDanner Thank you. I'll start watching. Happy New Year!
@stuckinmygarage6220 definitely the Topdon Phoenix Lite 2 it's around $800? They make one that's around 500 but I don't know enough about it yet.
your welcome!
Awesome Paul , Love it!,
How do you test brand new one before installing it? I wish you had one with a bad ckp and you tested the new one before putting it back in. My new ckp doesn't have any magnetism, but the old one does. So I am wondering if it is even any good. Any ideas?
Hi Paul, quick question. Since its a pull down design voltage appears as soon as sensor is unplugged. Question is if the signal wire was shorted to ground (external short) we would not see this 5v appearing with sensor unplugged. How do we then find out if it is a pull down or pull up design. I suppose we can check another hall effect sensor on the same vehicle or I guess depends on what the fault is stating regarding sensor signal.
Great question! This information is not readily available, so if you didn't know, I teach to use a test light as your bypass tool, and then in your example you would connect it to battery positive and try to trigger the circuit, but the light would light up indicating a short to ground. On a pull-up design (which is what you would think with 0v unplugged), a test light to battery positive should NOT light the light.
Hope that makes sense. If you're interested, this would be chapter 2 and chapter 21 material in my classes at www.scannerdanner.com
Thank you!
One quick question. Which side of the connector were you checking with the T-pin? The sensor side? or the harness side? I'm asking because I'm not sure about which side I should be checking during the bypass test. I'm guessing I should be plugged into the harness side.
TIA
If it's plugged in, it doesn't really matter. Unplugged, doing a bypass test, you want to be on the harness side.
ScannerDanner Thanks... that makes sense.
if we could manually turn the fly wheel like when we do for leak down test . can we catch this at full scale ??
Thank you for this video. one question are you saying that the Pcm Crankshaft position sensor line has an output of 5 volts from the Pcm?
Were do I find one of those nifty back testing pins used?
walmart in the sewing/craft section or on my Amazon affiliate page
Im getting 33ohm resistance on the ground. What gives 🤔