I Made My 3D Printer 10ft Tall
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
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This is absolutely unhinged and i love it, i now need to see an emily sized 3d printed emily
emily printing emily sounds amazing and we need it!
Just like the Spanish guy from the large 3d printers
Only 100 Years Printtime xD
An Emily sized Emily... spooky
@@joaomrtinsIvan Miranda?
Try printing something inside a tube and then use lateral supports that connect your inner print with the outer tube. You can make the outer tube full of holes to cut down on the amount of filament you need. This should help make your print more stable and eliminate the nozzle pushing the print around as it gets taller.
I'm thinking printed supports that can clip to the frame and be positioned to hold the print as it gets taller. Might be smart to pause the print and be very careful to not move it in the process.
i called this trick a 'draft shield' and some slicers even allow to make the skirt more than 1 layer high, so you don't even need to CAD it up ;)
Would also like to try a plus shaped support (like fins all the way up), possibly less material than a circle
i think you could achive the same thing with string
@MatPandaZ yea but then you need a really massive base 💀 which is probably a lot more expensive to source than two long vertical beams
It actually worked way better than I thought it would. There is a cura plugin that slows down the print speed based on Z layer height, I think slowing down as you get higher would help a lot.
Also maybe if you can, make clips that clip to the Z rails, and attach to the print, like the supports that hold up a space rocket on the launchpad. You'd have to add them manually as the print gets higher.
Well the print moves back and forth, while the z rails are stationary 😅
I agree with the Cura part. Supports need to be part of the print though.
@@FreshPe oh yes I forgot it was the bed that moves woops
Perhaps one could make some kind of overly complex follower that moves itself up the rails and reaches in to gently support the piece, while said support follows the bed motion, so no matter how high you were printing, it would be like you were never more than a handful of inches above the bed? 🤔
@@Nevir202 adding in a perimeter wall and support trusses from it to the part would be an idea.
6:39 the banding makes sense if you think about the amount of backlash you get from the stretch of a 10’ belt driven z axis. It gets better the shorter the belt.
"I just did it for the meme.. but the meme worked. So what if we made it useful?"
Proceeds to make a ten foot tall cowboy hat
It's... Beautiful.
The sword might have come out slightly better if it was rotated 90 degrees, as that way it wont be wobbling quite so much as the bed slings. Won't do anything for the nozzle dragging though.
I was thinking the same thing. The other part would be flow and retraction. There was alot of stringing and if the print head is moving the print, then you likely have not calibrated it as much as you could. Great video though lol.
You two are hilarious! This is the first 3D printing video in so long to genuinely make me laugh while peaking the interest of my armchair engineer core. This was AWESOME, you have a new sub for sure, keep it up!
You need to use a printing system that moves in both Z and X. No moving surface. This will both improve stability and prevent a situation where the weight is too great for the surface. And also in the filling of the print it is worthwhile for you to use a strong filling in a way that will make it harder.
Yes a core XY would be great.
But there is something that can be done, it's trying to stiffen the part by printing support towers in each corners, that bridge to the part every few cm.
Or thicker walls.
@@JV-pu8kx Or SLA.
A swimming pool printer conversion. Or, a entire 40 story building sized SLA printer, with submarines floating in it with laser beams attached to them, rapid spaceship production line, like boston dynamics meets the rock band boston!
@@truetech4158this is the way!
Printers without moving beds do exist, they are mainly core XY designs.
I’ve always seen “I made this giant 3d printer” blah blah blah… my question is… how small can you make one? What is the smallest functional 3d printer? Now I should state that when I say smallest I don’t just mean a nozzle that can only print straight upwards but like a 3d printer that has a tiny working space but is still useful for certain applications
voron made a printer that only prints calibration cubes
Why is that more interesting than a big one?
@@davidwalker575 compact and for the memes
@@davidwalker575 cause anyone can make something huge but functional but seeing how compact but functional you can make something is more impressive to me
All I have to say is whomp-whomp😢
Love it! Properly laughed out loud at the sun roof!
matt gray i llove you
I haven't laughed like that for a really long time, absolutely fantastic video!
This is the first video I've ever seen from Emily and I'm already all in.
2nded. Subscribed.
20 seconds into this video and I already love your entire approach, this is amazing.
Eiffel tower was really amazing tbh. Make more crazy things pls. Love all the crazy stuff you build on the channel ❤
if you modify the printer so the Y axis is part of the printing head instead of moving the bed you could build an enclosure and add sand around the already printed part of the model as it goes up, that would add stability and improve the quality of the top part of the print exponentially.
I like the sand idea! If the object is hollow, I wonder if you'd have to also pour sand into it as well to prevent it from collapsing.
@@totallyuneekname That's messy! Better would be something like using jamming-transition robot grippers (not as expensive as they sound! In fact, for this application, since you don't need precision _or_ strength, they can be positively cheap) to hold the lower parts of the object in place.
It's like watching Zach Friedman mixed with Michael Reeves
rotate the sword 90 degrees so that its inertia doesn't have as much of an impact during y travels. same concept applies to lithophanes or any print that is prone to swaying back and forth (which gets worse as the print gets taller for obvious reasons)
also this mod is probably better suited to a delta. one might think core-xy, but print will get heavy and make bed sag. delta bed is unmoving in all axes. that could be dope
edit: also do max vol flow testing and cap it there so that ur prints stop breaking when u try to remove them from the bed lol. max vol flow testing applies to something even as silly as this. see cnc kitchen videos about poop tests
Flying gantry coreXY. 3m tall voron 2.4
@@KittenRaeeThe cost of those Z-rails is going to be pure murder
Maybe a belt-driven Trident?..
OMG, I just Love this content you have made recently, you literally engineer things to be fun, even if a little silly, but extremely entertaining, and I am thinking about the handle of a certain axe to be printed in this now 😂
This might be a dumb 3D printer but you were smart enough to make it work.
This is mental, and i am totally here for it. We need to get her and simone giertz together. imagine the world they could build.
As someone working on a very tall musical instrument using 3D-printing for the prototype, I was linked to your video about 8 times! Keep up the great work.
Well done, I hope the instrument makes any noise
A simple counterweight on a pulley hung from the ceiling to balance the weight of the head assembly might help reduce the stretch on the belt and wear on the stepper motors. Lateral "support material" inside or around the part might be a good idea to reduce flexing, like ribs and ridges.
You know these contour measuring tools (Contour gauges I've seen them called) that use a lot of pins to exactly copy the contour of an object, so you can trace it somewhere else? You should have these at height intervals and move them in once the printhead has passed to fix the print in place and stop it from moving
3:49 i love everything about this shot. The stretched benchy, the noise she makes, the power pack just there on the floor, the YPO pritt-stick.
A delta-printer would be a better choice for this, I think.
Absolutely, but you still need some chonky or reinforced extrusions, not 2040. Maybe 6060 or something.
I would have thought a Voron 2.4 style flying gantry would be best, that would minimise forces on the in progress print but would be a bit easier than a delta
@@bosstowndynamics5488 Corexy is much higher build complexity and BOM cost than delta for a worse outcome. Especially if you're going for a flying gantry rather than descending bed.
I never thought there be a day in my life when there's a printer taller than me at 6'1...
swish
Hangprinter
I bet you can do more complex parts without any tweaks at all. They just need to be wide on the x AND y axes so the nozzle can't push them around so easily. Also, great to see more people using 1mm nozzles.
This is amazing ahaha. When you said you were printing a meme, long among us was my first thought I'd make with this, so glad to see it in the video lol. I'm guessing a coreXY printer might work better with this, as it wouldn't (bed)sling back and forth making the pronted model wobble as much (hopefully).
6:36 Fun fact, that banding is caused by the bed temperature cycle, that's why when the print is far away from the bed the banding starts to dissapear.
that's why it's important to PID tune even your bed temperature.
I think Colin Furze needs to know about this.
I love this woman, by far my Favorite channel for diy stuff.
This was both hilarious, and brililant.
If you do the same thing with a coreXY instead of a bed slinger, I bet you'd get all the detail you'd want
Hey Emily, the spectacle is ridiculous and I love it.
I've got an idea that could improve print quality and is also pretty goofy. Turn the printer upside down, remove the build plate and the hot end gantry and servo. Mount the build plate to your fancy belt driven z axis, and mount the hot end gantry to the gantry that had the build plate on it. Mount the printer to your ceiling, reverse the z axis in the firmware, and voila, a printer that only moves the print bed down the z axis and won't wobble your long prints.
I know there's only like a .1% you'd do this, but if you do then I'll subscribe. Pretty fair deal if you ask me.
I wish I had friends like emily who shared these passions, so much more fun and practical than being glued to a phone or gaming console
We're out there, I promise.
Get out of the house. Join a club. There are people like this literally everywhere.
I should have discovered this channel waaaay before. I love the memes, the crazy as hell ideas, it's... BRILLANT!
The lines dissapearing on top of the tube makes a lot of sense.
The tube itself can wobble during the print, therefore balancing out the imperfect motion of the axes.
Haha, Briilliant! (Actually, I think it was a perfectly appropriate sponsor 😂)
Clearly the next thing to do is modify an Ender 5 S1: the moving gantry/fixed bed would eliminate the wobble problems from the moving bed, and it prints a heck of a lot faster. You could use wires with turnbuckles as cross-braces to make the frame itself super-stiff, so I bet you’d get pretty decent prints even with thinner objects. And I’m sure Creality would be happy to give you the printer to mod! 😁
you would have better luck with a core XY printer, because the bed doesn't move in the direction where it tends to wobble. loved the video
I think a delta might be ideal since the acceleration is predominantly vertical. Besides, a 10’ tall delta would look like something from a science fiction movie.
Wow, I can't believe how well that worked on a bed slinger! Hilarious and interesting, well done!
I have an idea to make it print nicer. If you have the extruder move x and y and have the build plate move in a z axis. This would stop a lot of the wobbling!
10:07 I’m Doug Dimmadome! Owner of the dimmsdale dimmadome!
You should print something tall with a lot of surface area on the base and use gluestick to make sure the print does not start moving. Glue stick is amazing for that but sometimes tough to get it off the bed unless you have a flexible build plate.
RIP (rest in pieces) Dan's first printer 💔
he'll be dearly missed
Dan's first 3d printer is dead, looooooooooong live Dan's first 3d printer.
Awesome!
Adding string every 2 feet or whenever you need it and tying (or taping) the string to the uprights under tension helps keep everything stable!
A while back, many years ago, someone upsized their Ultimaker Original to print very tall as you have A few things on those print fails - did you use Z hop? Also, there's a few things you could do for that sword print, like layer time and Minimum Infill Area could fill in those areas as well. Neat project tho!
This was entertaining from start to finish! The Doug Dim-Amog was just the cherry on top.
E N GinEErIONg
Great project. Instead of a bed slinger you should move the print head in both the x and y axis. It probably be more stable printing. Also moving the print head slower the higher you go would help.
This was fun to watch also I just recently came across an idea that moves the X, Y and Z to the gantry and by enabling the head to be able to reach all 4 corners the printer prints its own Z axis rails to be able to print infinitely high by essentially using a worm drive ridding along the inside of an infinitely tall 1/4 nut.
The concept was to have a printer that can actually print an infinitely WIDE printer frame along X that can then print a new frame that's infinitely wide along the new relative Y axis so you could go from (120 X 120 by 600) to (600 x 120 x 600) to eventually be able to print a whole car in one go.
Found the original video. There are still things to improve on. One simple improvement is simply thicker legs or built-in trusses.
ruclips.net/video/Ek_7tBOCcAI/видео.htmlsi=_oqD821Ojigzqs50
It's probably been stated a million times. THIS IS AWESOME. Secondly, you need a gantry that can move in X,Y, and Z. the beds travel transfers motion into your print. Here is what you are seeing; As the print gets taller, the waves from the vibration traveling through the plastic, eventually equal out, so all the sudden you get a perfectly good print, and then it deteriorates, then becomes good again. The geometry of the shape will determine where that motion bounces off of in the plastic and how accurate the print will be. The more you increase the softness of the start and end motion of the bed, the better. Sadly, the taller and heavier the print gets, you also tax the stepper in reference to torque. I believe that's why the hat came out as good as it did since it was a hollow cylinder. This is awesome though, and a fun example of how diverse 3D printers are.
Try it with a core x-y and after each foot or so is printed add some ‘strapping’ to hold the print steady in place.
That...actually worked a lot better than I expected.
I too had to learn to edit my printer's firmware when I added a new probe. Which was actually pretty easy...until I realized that the FW was slightly too large for the Arduino IDE to compile, which led to learning a standalone compiler and then a FW plugin for Octoprint and wait this isn't a small project anymore.
This would make more sense if the extruder moved in the x,y,z with bed being stationary, But laid down on its side so you could 3d print a kayak.
Tip for printing, thin stuff, orient it long ways along the Y axis so it has a longer footprint in that direction to reduce wobbling. Other idea is making a 10ft tall floating gantry
This is the first video I ever saw of yours.i like the fact that your humor is the same as those found in peter sripol and what not's videos.
I had a thought about the lead screws, replacing the z motors with a stepper motor that utilises a pass through for the screw. Essentially it would just rotate a internal nut to move the axis. No more torque needed and the screws wouldn't flex.
To print things like swords, consider outfill.
Or a tube with a sword shaped infill
The problem is the force on the x-y axis is being applied below the center of gravity, thereby creating a moment of inertia causing the print body to rotate. The taller the body the more torque is applied and there are additional forces once the body begins to rotate off the z-axis, e.g. gravitational force, flex, resonance and even a small amount of tension as the hot plastic retains some elasticity as it follows along behind the extruder.
Some ways to counteract the torque and improve quality increasing in complexity:
1. Print a support cylinder for all tall prints designed to break away. This is wasteful but easy to do.
2. Slow down the x-y motors to minimize the acceleration being applied at the base once the build gets over a certain height.
3. Reusable support(s) 1 meter in length could be mounted to the base by printing the a circular mount to the base and fastening the support cylinder to it with screws. Then, print an infill support between the print body and the reusable support cylinder in a way that another support could be added on top. The z-axis would need to be moved to home position (top) during install of supports.
4. Add more axes. A 5-axis or 6-axis 3D printer can apply equal but opposite torque by independent rotation of the extruder and base. The addition of two more stepper motors to the base and extruder too so that the print body and extruder can both rotate off the x-y plane. Very complicated and some additional hardware like solenoid sensors and a lot of firmware and maybe some lasers in the head to detect motion of the body idk ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
The banding makes 100% sense. You are solid at the top, you need WEIGHT at the bottom, and the long extrusions will flex towards the ends. Also use Oldham couplings for the z. Move the motion system to the xy, dump the bed slinger. Mount the bed solid.
Fun video! 😅
Just being an engineer. Just held back by money, and beyond expectations ideas made real by engineering.
So fun fact and something that can help if you decide to continue with this shenanigans- if you use prusa slicer, enable supports on bed only, change to organic (tree) supports, then paint the sides at random points going up the print, you can add essentially break away braces for tall thin objects- or not thin but extremely tall objects in this case. Would have been a perfect use case for the sword print! 😁
when I was 6 years old, I made a 4' tall dunce hat for school's hat day. Same issue with the wobble. We used high test string from the top to hold in each hand. The balance becomes a lot easier and you can make it wobble at will. Maybe something worth trying.
I'm pretty sure you could align the edge of the sword with the Y axis instead of the X and it should dampen the sway.
you could add struts to the side panels of the 3d printer at set heights and add horizontal anchors for more stability for higher prints
Y’all are way too awesome, i SO wish i could come help with the crazy shenanigans
fr...
This is making me feel a lot better about the 2M tall corexy build I'm planning.
As soon as I heard the z axis techno melody at 2:11, I knew it was those 2 cables, purchased some longer cables for an upgrade and had the exact same thing happen haha
The wobble of the piece being printed is the reason why you must increase the size of the nozzle, or at least the thickness of your walls and put more support, so to print thicker and sturdier. I think Ivan Miranda prints at 2mm! At 0.1mm, most of my prints are flat, made to be assembled. For instance, I designed and printed lancets, not a complete arch, I designed and printed flat triangular windows to make a icosaedron and vever tried to print the icosaedron directly with lots of necessary supports. As a result, I get something that can be scaled up and made of wood and aluminium in real world application: the dodecaedron with its faces "subsampled" in triangles (in the shape of the "top" of an icosaedron) is making an easy and facy "geodome" without the awkawrd calculation and trigonometry...
Try this with a Voron 2.4, it's the perfect printer for this project
Not only is this interesting as a meme, but it seems to work well enough to have some practical potential. Maybe not 10 feet, but this certainly proves that taller printers are totally attainable!
This is hilarious, also though at 8:00 that print would likely work a lot better turned 90 degrees, you NEED a wide-base primarily along the Y bed axis for stability, since that's the only one the part gets moved along. Printing some support structures along the Y axis could also help, also maybe slowing print speed with height but.. "ain't nobody got time for that."
Honestly you should try this with a Core XY type printer that prints by moving the bed down each layer and the head only moves in the X and Y axis… that would make this more accurate and well cool
That worked insanely well I can’t wait to see what it looks like with improvements.
maybe it just needs to be fitted into a grandfather clock as an enclosure to solve the layer separation issue.
So you need to create custom models, all printong inside of silos, with anchor point every so many inches..then rip your silo support off afterward..amaxing ( that is maximum amazing btw)
Didn’t see any of your videos before, but you are a goofball genius. Love it!
you could add support structures on the outside that occasionally connect back to the middle to keep it from wobbling quite so much, like printed scaffolding, lol
It was a fantastic attempt and I am impressed it worked as well as it did... I think the biggest mistake was using a bed slinger as the base unit... The (relatively) tiny detail moves are not going to translate up the height as easily to sync with the X axis... essentially, the wobble in the tower along the 'Y' axis is going to lag behind the shorter and more precise movements of the 'X' axis. It would have worked much better to have both the X and the Y axes at the "top" of that tower and have the 'Z' axis plate just descend along the rails.
6:04 the flashing screen is why you don't want to move the bed or hotend by hand while the printer is off.
I think the obvious killer is height to width ratio when it comes to stability, hence why the sword had more problems than the tubes.
I've used older 3d printers that had an auto setting to print a support wall around the part to reduce shrinkage and warping by stabilising the temperature and seen several prints like the 'hairy lion' where a central part is bound to an exterior wall by horizontal support threads.
I think there'd be some surprisingly good potential if you could expand the bed, add that outer support wall as wide as possible and tie it to the main structure using support threads- maybe more like a 3ft wide base with CNC router servos (for the weight) and 5ft of height than 10 ft , but some surprisingly sturdy and accurate big prints could be made.
I am in love with you rn. You are doing the best thing an engineer can possibly do.
This is the kind of engineering content I need in my life❤❤❤ that cursed bench had me dying 😂🤣
Okay, now I need to see this in core xy, maybe with linear motor z axis for better control? Not sure if that would work, but that or rack and pinion are probably the best bets for that long a travel without going crazy.
Oh my god i love this lmao. I belt printed a 12 foot sword and thought i was god. But this is so universe brain awesome haha. Would love to see ya do this to an ender 5+. From a bed slinger to a just insane thing to see 🤣
this absolutely needs to be modded to a corexy. amazing idea for an old ender mod.
You just need to print horizontal supports to stiffen it - a 30cm wide structure dosn't wobble that much, And slower bed -movement- acceleration may help also...
Could you add some kinda clamping mechanism that can come in at defined vertical increments. To old the print in place and prevent wobble as it gets taller.
Maybe you could use the 3d code to determine where the clamps need to go…
I think the fact that the bed translates in the y axis gives you the wobble, it would probably work way better as core-xy
omfg thats sooo amazing ! now I kinda wannya extend my ender 3 eventho I never printed something close to its height limitations x3
Engineering? 3d printing?! I think I found a new favorite channel
add a 1-2" fillet at the base, to a raft - that 90-degree joint at the bed surface has no stiffness. And/or add taller flying buttresses!
The hat sticking out the sunroof tho.. LOLLERCOASTERS! That's funny right there!
Change it to a core x/y so the bed doesn't move back and forth, only the hotend. I may get rid of the part wobbling at taller heights!
It should else than any nozzle drag that may occur.
Fantastic. I laughed so hard when you were driving with the hat lmao
Also, for those long prints, I'm sure its failing because of the y-axis. Swinging a large object is probably making the print touch the nozzle. So print slower!
This concept will work out a lot better if your y and x axis are both on the hot end and the bed is fixed. So the print doesn’t wobble.
Maybe you could get some string to support the wobbly prints as it's being made. Just check in once in a while to loop some string at intervals
The tall one that was best at the top, I guess it may be because of several factors:
1) The triangular shape in the ceiling mount would be more rigid than the bottom one
2) As you print more, you add weight/mass and in some prints it may be negative, but in others positive. If the mass is large enough that the friction of the printer cant move the print, then you are good to go I think.
Not gonna lie, I'nm cacklingh like a maniac. How in Gods' name is a 10 ft bedslinger even able to function. I expected that vase to just snap off at 2 ft.
Well done. Omg. Incroiable!
there's this custom g code project that basically prints a sphere on top of a thin noodle by taking the wobble of the print into account. that might work on this too maybe. I think it was called "pin support challenge" or something like that
Oh, the sheer audacity of this vehicular haberdashery! A 10 ft Doug Dimmadome hat sticking out of the sunroof? Pure comedic genius! 🎩🚗😂