I would surmise that if the mineral oil was heated close, but not exactly at, the temperature the filament, that the printer might have kept printing. It was pretty cool that the printer head wasn't corrupting the filament by adding oil between layers.
it would be so cool to disable the thermal run away from Marlin just to finish the print submerged in oil (of course add disclaimers so people don’t try that) 👀
i mean yes but PLA prints at 200+C so the extruder will sooner or later deep fry the electronics or the amount of oil will cool of faster than the heater and it will never reach temp
@@SteffenBauer more likely the latter. it's a 300w power supply heating a 2 inch element that's trying to heat up 5+ gallons of oil. it's just not going to happen haha (for context, most stoves have an average of 3kw)
You should insulate the heat block with several layers of high temperature silicone. I think you may be able to get it to hold temperature then. I’m amazed that mineral oil didn’t prevent the layers from bonding.
I'm glad we could help you "do stupid things with a printer!" But actually I'm trying to figure out where to put my printer and attached upside down to the ceiling makes more sense than my other ideas...
I’ll have to think about it more but maybe an advantage to printing upside down is reducing support material in certain use cases. Changing the gravity vector strategically mid-print could be helpful for full round stuff or objects with deep overhangs? Fun video!
Next challenge: printing with a resin printer upside down 😜 But seriously, cool vid! just goes to show how robust these printers actually are and you don't always need to baby them.
First off, let me say I appreciate the old-school RUclips vibe you give off. This video feels like the good old days before everything became formulaic. Secondly... oil should absolutely inhibit bed adhesion. We're told constantly to wipe the beds down with alcohol to clean the oils off. Since you've already put this little trooper through so much, I'd really like to see you test other bed contaminants. Because mineral oil is petroleum based, does it interact with the molten plastic in a way that organic oils don't? Will vegetable oil, natural/synthetic motor oil, WD-40, 3-in-1 oil or whatevs behave the same way? Inquiring minds want to know!
hahaha I filmed the same video a while back 😂 but I never got around to editing and posting it! I printed in dry ice, upside down, outside, and on battery power. Survived no problem! Ender 3 is a tank! (most of the time, not always! 😉)
Ahhh. I remember when i started 3d printing, and my family treated the printer like the most delicate thing on earth. Aaaannd your’e printing with it ziptied to the ceiling.
I think the best way to print submerged is to turn off all the fans because it does not need cooling. and put the printer after the mineral oil once submerged you let it heat up for half an hour or so to heat the oil and if it doesn't work mon water heaters in the farthest corner and leave it for a bit so the heat won't go away
The best starter printer is actually not the Ender 3, but the Ender 3 V3 SE. For just 30$ more, you get higher print speeds, double Z axis, a better screen, generally better looks, and AUTO BED LEVELING!
this is soo janky. i love it. also, that's the 3d printer foods speaking when the printer got zip tied upside down 😂 imagine the views of the printer fell lol
"WRONG! It still works!" haha. I would love to see you try again with an "enclosure heater" to prewarm the oil so the printer isn't struggling trying to heat the entire vat. You can move the power supply and control boards outside of the vat, so they don't have an issue with the heated oil. Next, you can modify the marlin firmware as needed to adjust for thermal runaway, and PID tune the hotend so that it can properly heat up and cool down in the oil. I would still use the heated bed, but an added oil heater so marlin doesn't freak out trying to heat the bed forever. I know this was about "how far can I push the printer", but I think it became "can I print under mineral oil?" pretty fast. Sometimes those mineral oil PCs have some components which are external, especially additional radiators and fans, so I don't really see this as cheating at all.
MORE!!!I wonder what is the Maximum overhang you can achieve with the printer Upside Down or Sideways? especial if you plan the pathing to use gravity to it's advantage (like top to bottom for sideways mounting)
This gives me so much hope. I have an Ender 3 as my starter and I've seen so many people going above and beyond to keep their printers level and in the most optimum conditions....while I've got mine on a slightly wobbly coffee table in a room that's currently fluctuating between 14c-22c with a humidity of 60% and the dust of small animals. If a printer can deal with mineral oil, it can deal with that.
I wonder if the oil can reduce the amount of support structure needed. To print without nozzle temperature issues, either keep the oil level at nozzle height, or heat the oil (might also reduce warping?).
This was a great torture test to watch and show some of the resilience of these things, but I think as an engineer you missed a considerably important test. I've heard of people wanting to integrate these things into vehicles for mobile printing solutions. The hanging test touched on some of the lateral and shock force testing that would be involved in this, but vibration would be the real test. You should totally do another one of these videos where you set the printer up on a vibrating platform and see if it will print. Then you can increase/decrease the vibration amplitude and frequency until it fails. Same with some sort of shock testing system to see at what impact level it stops working (impact being deferred shock from the printing platform not necessarily direct impacts to the printer itself). Someone in the comments mentioned seeing if it could print in space... setting up a vacuum chamber to put it in and test might be pretty cool (though complicated due to the forces and seam sealing involved). I'm sure the resulting issue though may end up being thermal runaway since you'd basically eliminate any kind of convective cooling.
What if you use some sous vide machines to warm the oil up to like 130-150ish or something? Hot enough so the hot end can stay hot but low enough the plastic can cool?
Beginning to think the layer shift is just a artifact in the Benchy model when it's sliced. Every print I have ever see seen, either my own or other people's, has that band right below the railing.
Not sure if I'm remembering correctly but I think when 3D printing first started (as a hobbyist/desktop style) that the people used to oil the filament to make it go on through the extruder/hotend...
what if you had the filament running out of the oil? one trick that people do is they use some oil to greese the PTFE tubing. so maybe that could help...idk.
Well, I started with Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus. Shockingly, the price wasn't too high, even with a nozzle / nozzle cleaning kit, 1kg of silk PLA, and PETG. The entire price was only £319.39 comparing to Bambu Lab's £439.25 for A1 printer.
Heating the oil may help! Have you considered trying deionized water? I’d like to see you try that instead of the mineral oil. Sharing this with ERRF people tomorrow, theres a dude there with a printer thats bed and extruder are upside down! Whole printer fits in a filament box too!!
Two more experiments: 1) heat the oil bath with an immersion heater (like a suese vide or aquarium heater). This should fix your cooling issue. 2) bolt two printers together at the bottom, base to base. And try printing the same print at the same time. And different prints at the same time.
take 6 printers, mount them +-90 degrees off from their neighbors on the faces of a cube, and have them run the exact same g-code(in sync) while suspended from your ceiling. the 'print-die' bonus points for printing large d6.
Loved it, but yea will NOT be doing the Mineral oil at the very least at all with my Prusa Mini (I only got the memo to AVOID a Ender, cheap 3D printer). lol
Here's you printing upside down, while I just sold my CR-10S Pro as I can't get the damn thing levelled after replacing with a magnetised bed. Oh and I just bought a Bambu P1S and I hope to never level again in my LIFE!
Emily now to can extend your hall of iron man Armour. Loving the new work space Emily you are a genius and a great inventor just like Tony Stark only your alive and you expand your horizon. Stan would be proud. You are the next iron man. Love from Canada your friendly neighbourhood Deadpool i mean Jman lol.
I imagine that if you want to submerge the printer, you're probably going to want to do a tiny bit of modification to said printer. Namely, moving the electronic panel outside of the bath and then putting the printer into print mode while it is submerged. You may get better results that way because as you mentioned, it was warming the liquid, That said, it could actually print better than if you were just to print it normally. But you'd need to start it while it's submerged.
Have you tried this with a high speed printer? I know Voron wants their printers to be mounted securely for high speed maneuvering. Would one being free to wiggle interfere with it's print quality??
![[29] Recycling PLA scrap || Making bowls from waste materials using 3D printed filament PLA](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ANemiYi2Z18/mqdefault.jpg)
I think I found the 3d printer version of Michael Reeves, and I'm totally here for it!
I thought the exact same thing xD
That's what my head was not able to put into words.
Exactly what I was thinking
And she post more than once a year 😂
With 50% less crack
I would surmise that if the mineral oil was heated close, but not exactly at, the temperature the filament, that the printer might have kept printing. It was pretty cool that the printer head wasn't corrupting the filament by adding oil between layers.
It would act like a heated enclosure! Finally, the solution to ABS warping.
This could definitely work
Aquarium heater would solve this no problem
Layer adhesion would probably be worse than usual though
@@GruntyGame Why not use air🤣
As someone with one working printer and two out of commission, this was equally frightening and entertaining to watch.
first reply
it would be so cool to disable the thermal run away from Marlin just to finish the print submerged in oil (of course add disclaimers so people don’t try that) 👀
i mean yes but PLA prints at 200+C so the extruder will sooner or later deep fry the electronics or the amount of oil will cool of faster than the heater and it will never reach temp
or just insulate the hot end
Or put it in a deep fryer instead 🤪
@@SteffenBauer more likely the latter. it's a 300w power supply heating a 2 inch element that's trying to heat up 5+ gallons of oil. it's just not going to happen haha (for context, most stoves have an average of 3kw)
shut up you don't post links on your shorts
As a man in my forties living in my own basement, I approved of this experiment. It answers questions that I never new I had. Thank you, ETE.
Btw you used the wrong new it’s supposed to be knew
@mrguy1234_5 thank you for pulling up a year old comment to critique my autocorrect. #necroPostBullshit
You should insulate the heat block with several layers of high temperature silicone. I think you may be able to get it to hold temperature then. I’m amazed that mineral oil didn’t prevent the layers from bonding.
I'm glad we could help you "do stupid things with a printer!" But actually I'm trying to figure out where to put my printer and attached upside down to the ceiling makes more sense than my other ideas...
The printer coming out of this alive and usable is amazing
I’ll have to think about it more but maybe an advantage to printing upside down is reducing support material in certain use cases. Changing the gravity vector strategically mid-print could be helpful for full round stuff or objects with deep overhangs? Fun video!
Ooooh, now there's a fun idea. 5-axis printing.
Next challenge: printing with a resin printer upside down 😜 But seriously, cool vid! just goes to show how robust these printers actually are and you don't always need to baby them.
Upside down resin printing works just fine. Source: Used a resin printer in Australia
@@WurstPeterl good to know, so it should work here in South Africa as wel then? 🤣
First off, let me say I appreciate the old-school RUclips vibe you give off. This video feels like the good old days before everything became formulaic.
Secondly... oil should absolutely inhibit bed adhesion. We're told constantly to wipe the beds down with alcohol to clean the oils off. Since you've already put this little trooper through so much, I'd really like to see you test other bed contaminants. Because mineral oil is petroleum based, does it interact with the molten plastic in a way that organic oils don't? Will vegetable oil, natural/synthetic motor oil, WD-40, 3-in-1 oil or whatevs behave the same way? Inquiring minds want to know!
hahaha I filmed the same video a while back 😂 but I never got around to editing and posting it! I printed in dry ice, upside down, outside, and on battery power. Survived no problem! Ender 3 is a tank! (most of the time, not always! 😉)
Well get to it!
Seconded. Back to the editing table !
This is the right amount of 3D printing shenanigans i needed today, Thank you
Ahhh. I remember when i started 3d printing, and my family treated the printer like the most delicate thing on earth. Aaaannd your’e printing with it ziptied to the ceiling.
5:45 Emily: "Hello, I got a child here...he only has a slight fever of 200 degrees celsius..." what a child keep it up
I was laughing in delight the entire video. Love it!!
I think the best way to print submerged is to turn off all the fans because it does not need cooling. and put the printer after the mineral oil once submerged you let it heat up for half an hour or so to heat the oil and if it doesn't work mon water heaters in the farthest corner and leave it for a bit so the heat won't go away
I spent so long failing to get my Ender to successfully print ANYTHING that this video almost made me cry LMAO. great content
Very impressive...
That's all. Very impressive. I can't think of anything to up the ante past printing underwater.
The best starter printer is actually not the Ender 3, but the Ender 3 V3 SE. For just 30$ more, you get higher print speeds, double Z axis, a better screen, generally better looks, and AUTO BED LEVELING!
Now the real question is....
Can it print in space?
😆 wouldn't need to worry about drying filament
@@Jawst part cooling might be an issue, but fuck it, I need to see this now
@@NM-wd7kx radiator fins on the bed lol
The ISS has a 3D printer that successfully prints parts for them, so yes!
@@FoxTheRad they do but we talkin about printing in a vacuum
the question isn't what to do with the 3D printer next, the question is what to do with all that mineral oil.
Drink dit. Lekker
Is it possible to print cheese? Print a moon out of cheese perhaps so we can finally answer the age-old question of "Is the moon made out of cheese?"
this is soo janky.
i love it.
also, that's the 3d printer foods speaking when the printer got zip tied upside down 😂 imagine the views of the printer fell lol
"WRONG! It still works!" haha. I would love to see you try again with an "enclosure heater" to prewarm the oil so the printer isn't struggling trying to heat the entire vat. You can move the power supply and control boards outside of the vat, so they don't have an issue with the heated oil. Next, you can modify the marlin firmware as needed to adjust for thermal runaway, and PID tune the hotend so that it can properly heat up and cool down in the oil. I would still use the heated bed, but an added oil heater so marlin doesn't freak out trying to heat the bed forever. I know this was about "how far can I push the printer", but I think it became "can I print under mineral oil?" pretty fast. Sometimes those mineral oil PCs have some components which are external, especially additional radiators and fans, so I don't really see this as cheating at all.
everyone else: todays sponsor is raid shadow legends
emily: my sponsor is CHANGING THE WORLD!!!!
7:25 baby oil is mineral oil with fragrance in it look the ingredients, mineral oil and fragrance
MORE!!!I wonder what is the Maximum overhang you can achieve with the printer Upside Down or Sideways? especial if you plan the pathing to use gravity to it's advantage (like top to bottom for sideways mounting)
i can't imagine a better ender3 ad lol
Even if it works, I can't put into words just how much the idea of this terrifies me, I love my printers too much to try it
Emily was laying on the floor of the empty workspace, staring at the ceiling, and went "heh heh".
The will my dad ever love me got me 🤣
I won't lie....for just a moment, I envisioned my walls/ceiling covered in printers....awesome test!
omfg plzz turn it into an rc car, i want it to drive around and print a lil car at the same time
Wow. A hardcore printer! You should try putting it inside a wheel and then spinning it as it prints. Would look so funny.
This gives me so much hope. I have an Ender 3 as my starter and I've seen so many people going above and beyond to keep their printers level and in the most optimum conditions....while I've got mine on a slightly wobbly coffee table in a room that's currently fluctuating between 14c-22c with a humidity of 60% and the dust of small animals. If a printer can deal with mineral oil, it can deal with that.
can we agree that the Ender took it like a champ? like I did not expect to handle everything let alone print perfectly
My ender3 v2 has the exact same layer shift. Not sure what's causing it yet.
Does this affect the need for supports? Will overhangs turn out better if the printer is upside down?
i was hoping to see this comment. would be very interesting to see
And here i am, still having trouble leveling my bed when its on the table
I can't believe that is still worked so well. Great video!
I can’t even get my prints to work upright and she can do it upside down. Wtf 😂
Thank you for doing all this, I have wanted to try some of these for a few years.
I wonder if the oil can reduce the amount of support structure needed. To print without nozzle temperature issues, either keep the oil level at nozzle height, or heat the oil (might also reduce warping?).
This was a great torture test to watch and show some of the resilience of these things, but I think as an engineer you missed a considerably important test. I've heard of people wanting to integrate these things into vehicles for mobile printing solutions. The hanging test touched on some of the lateral and shock force testing that would be involved in this, but vibration would be the real test. You should totally do another one of these videos where you set the printer up on a vibrating platform and see if it will print. Then you can increase/decrease the vibration amplitude and frequency until it fails. Same with some sort of shock testing system to see at what impact level it stops working (impact being deferred shock from the printing platform not necessarily direct impacts to the printer itself).
Someone in the comments mentioned seeing if it could print in space... setting up a vacuum chamber to put it in and test might be pretty cool (though complicated due to the forces and seam sealing involved). I'm sure the resulting issue though may end up being thermal runaway since you'd basically eliminate any kind of convective cooling.
but somehow when i walk by my ender 3 too fast the breeze causes a half inch layer shift
This channel is legit, keep up the content!
My Ender 3 v2 lives on a bar stool in my garage.
What if you use some sous vide machines to warm the oil up to like 130-150ish or something? Hot enough so the hot end can stay hot but low enough the plastic can cool?
Beginning to think the layer shift is just a artifact in the Benchy model when it's sliced. Every print I have ever see seen, either my own or other people's, has that band right below the railing.
I love this channel!!!! You are doing all the stupid "what if stuff" with your printer so we don't have too!!!! Thankyou ma'am!
Not sure if I'm remembering correctly but I think when 3D printing first started (as a hobbyist/desktop style) that the people used to oil the filament to make it go on through the extruder/hotend...
It's good to see your videos on here again
what if you had the filament running out of the oil? one trick that people do is they use some oil to greese the PTFE tubing. so maybe that could help...idk.
Well, I started with Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus. Shockingly, the price wasn't too high, even with a nozzle / nozzle cleaning kit, 1kg of silk PLA, and PETG. The entire price was only £319.39 comparing to Bambu Lab's £439.25 for A1 printer.
Unintentional Ender 3 ad! That sucker is resilient
Yep. Space seems to be next. What about printing in a vacuum?
Then, what about a sound chamber that plays tones to match the resonance of the machine?
This is a great ad for the unstoppable and unmatched reliability of the Ender 3
You should try heating the oil with a sous vide cooker. Or aquarium heater. You may have to tune the pid but I bet you could do it
So a core xy printer with the hot end above the oil and the bed lowering into the oil it would cool prints well ?
An overhang test would be interesting. See how far you can gooooooooo
“Hi, I'm Johnny Knoxville. Welcome to Jackass”
I’ve wondered about using a fluid as a support for overhangs.
I appreciate you, great sense of humor. I'm just here doing the stuff in supposed to.
Heating the oil may help! Have you considered trying deionized water? I’d like to see you try that instead of the mineral oil. Sharing this with ERRF people tomorrow, theres a dude there with a printer thats bed and extruder are upside down! Whole printer fits in a filament box too!!
Two more experiments:
1) heat the oil bath with an immersion heater (like a suese vide or aquarium heater). This should fix your cooling issue.
2) bolt two printers together at the bottom, base to base. And try printing the same print at the same time. And different prints at the same time.
I think we found American Hacksmith
I'm a bit late, but I watched wogh my son and he thinks you should cast the whole printer in resin, mid print.
I want to know if you can get a decent print in the back of a moving car
take 6 printers, mount them +-90 degrees off from their neighbors on the faces of a cube, and have them run the exact same g-code(in sync) while suspended from your ceiling. the 'print-die' bonus points for printing large d6.
I feel like this would be a fantastic commercial for ender 3 printers and how durable they can be😂
Finally a new video ive been looking foward to a new video
0:55 watching this and laughing my ass off ... while I was starting up litterally my ... Ender 3 xD
I wonder how an upside down printer does with overhangs? Would love to see a calibration test with them
How does she achieve better results than me while LITERALLY SPINNING A PRINTER FROM THE CEILING
1:00 hella funny
Loved it, but yea will NOT be doing the Mineral oil at the very least at all with my Prusa Mini (I only got the memo to AVOID a Ender, cheap 3D printer). lol
That looks like a Hulk Buster sized workshop Emily! I love your videos thanks!
ad end 5:19
Wow! My hand automatically slip toward the subscribe button on its own!
This is, to quote you, the nail in the coffin. I wanted a printer, but now im gonna buy one
Oh man instead of zip ties I thought you were going to say duct tape.
I cant believe it kept printing thru all that. And hear I am babying mine. Lol
Here's you printing upside down, while I just sold my CR-10S Pro as I can't get the damn thing levelled after replacing with a magnetised bed. Oh and I just bought a Bambu P1S and I hope to never level again in my LIFE!
Would it still work with heating up the oil? Note, only with great ventilation and knowledge of what happens to the oil at high temperatures
if you print upside down, do supports still work? do you not need supports?
Ooh, mount the entire machine so it's supported only by the bed. Y-Axis should make the whole thing go back and forth.
0:42 Lmao, even just saying Like this video in any context causes the dumb button glow feature. XD
Emily now to can extend your hall of iron man Armour. Loving the new work space Emily you are a genius and a great inventor just like Tony Stark only your alive and you expand your horizon. Stan would be proud. You are the next iron man. Love from Canada your friendly neighbourhood Deadpool i mean Jman lol.
She's so funny. I love it.
Jokes on you! I'm a 40y old man who lives in my parents attic!
Try printing with the printer on a vibrating base
I love this! I'm gonna have to try this with my printers now!
Didn't think I'd laugh this much at a 3D printer video. Bravo! You are hilarious.
I imagine that if you want to submerge the printer, you're probably going to want to do a tiny bit of modification to said printer. Namely, moving the electronic panel outside of the bath and then putting the printer into print mode while it is submerged. You may get better results that way because as you mentioned, it was warming the liquid, That said, it could actually print better than if you were just to print it normally. But you'd need to start it while it's submerged.
Have you tried this with a high speed printer? I know Voron wants their printers to be mounted securely for high speed maneuvering. Would one being free to wiggle interfere with it's print quality??
Coming up with some new ideas for you. Love it
Absolutely impressive!
What about the Mile-High Club? No, not what you're thinking. But a Benchy printed at 10,000 meters above sea level - now that would be cool!
I was just thinking about a spider printer today where you could use a hot end and have little fingers to move the filament like spider does.