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Thanks mate for showing such interesting and educational videos, it is much appreciated as far as I am concerned, my only criticism is that I would like to see more, in these challenging times such videos can help to retain ones sanity and faith in the younger generation, please keep up the good work........10/10.
Rich, you are a legend, thankyou for your kind words. I try my best with the content, but have found myself somewhat overwhelmed with work commitments, thus filming is hard work to fit in. I have some content to trickle out though.
Thanks for the videos, you display excellent skills and amazing attention to detail. I live near a village called Bradshaw in Halifax West Yorkshire. Gordon.
Thank you for such an educational video. I love (hate :)) watching such skillful people make my efforts look so pityful. :) My woodworking training ended when I left school in 1969 but I still do some and I did become a mechanical engineer and then retrained as an electronic engineer so Im not totally useless but old age is catching up on me. What you achieved in, what 2 days? would take me 2 weeks at least. I have serious equipment, material and skill envy but I will take away some tips and tricks! LOL. I have 2 traditional yurt doors and frames that need repair or replacement because of insect infestation and shrinkage and I havent decided on my way forward yet. Here in Portugal the price of good timber is criminal if you can find a local supplier and yet every village in my area still has a carpenters shop. Apologies for the ramble but keep up the content. It inspires me.
Haha, dont put yourself down! It is my profession not just a hobby! Yeah it was 2 days work, its probably a 3 day job, but i am so busy i put some hours in and got it completed! I generally only opt for repair if the majority/upper part of the piece is in good order. if this door had rot in every rail/panel i definitley would be replacing. what is the main timber in portugal for external work?
@@BradshawJoinery I dont know is the honest answer buy Ill try and find out. There isnt much visible exterior woodwork to be seen locally. Eucalyptus is the dominant tree to be seen growing. Huge plantations harvested every 5 - 10 years for pulp. When treated its used as lathes and gravel boards.
Hiya mate As I’m writing this I’ve got a big smile on my face I just love your work so much very talented and I must admit this is the second time I’ve watched this video and you still impress me with your talent 🪚🪚👍👍👍👍
Great video, very informative and helpful. Just wish I had access to some of the machinery you use. Going to be making 2 sets of these gates/doors in the next couple of weeks, prob take me about a month using the tools I have. Due to price of timber I will probably use pine and put a heavy coat of oil paint on it. Just hope the soft wood does not cause to much problem with seasonal change.
Thankyou Derek. Yes to build up a machinery workshop has been a sacrifice to say the least! Best thing you can do with pine is treat the insides of the joints and tenons etc with preservative pre glue up and let it dry out well. Same with all the boarding, 2/3 coats on the grooves and the backs of the boards and rails where they touch to seal them will double the life of the door easily.
@@BradshawJoinery yip I can relate to that, not been able to work due to ill health since 2015 and has taken me about 2 1/2 years to save up enough to get a table saw and thicknesser planer. Plenty of sacrifice. Both machines from the felder hammer range. Now it's time to get new doors for the workshop built and then start the renovation of my house. Just found your channel last week and love the detail that you put into the videos. I find your way of teaching easy to follow and understand. Thank you.
The Rolls-Royce of exterior doors - impressive cabinetry skills applied to door making! A potential heirloom object which will quite possibly outlast the dwelling to which it's attached! Deserving of stainless-steel ironmongery perhaps? The UK climate is tough on mild steel outdoors even when galvanized which prompts the question, although common wisdom in the trade is that the vertical boards should not be glued to the rails and braces, with modern adhesives, which can flex while maintaining adhesive integrity, isn't there a case for it? Steel fasteners, whether screws or nails will in time rot out leaving the wood still in good condition, assuming treatment at prescribed intervals, and the boards will consequently come loose.
I have used galvanised ironmongery on accoya about 7 years ago with no detrimental effect so feel it should be ok, but yes Stainless hardware is becoming more readily available! With Accoya you could glue the boards. I would not glue normal timber, the adhesive will hold which is where the problem lies.. it warps the door with any movement! I use Stainless fasteners, the Brad nails are 40mm Stainless Steel. Mild steel wouldnt last 5 minutes outside in Accoya.
@@BradshawJoinery If it was mentioned that the nail gun used for fixing the boards was loaded with stainless steel, I missed it. So, your explanation answers my concern. Spot on. Re. Accoya. I've researched it without finding the answer. Do you know if the logged timber is pre-seasoned before acetylation or is that step just skipped? Thanks.
I'm not sure if I mentioned it but yeah I always but stainless Brad's now, even for internal work. The Accoya is kilned before treating, then after acetylation it is dried again so it arrives very dry.
I have stumbled across your channel from what I have seen it's very good. Just wondered how long would it take you to make this door. Many thanks Matthew
Great work buddy ! I’m going to try to make one of these myself and have a question…….what overall size is the thickness of the frame? 45mm? Im going to do a cutting list and don’t really know what suitable size my T and G boards should be for thickness, i understand that the middle and bottom rail tenons are dictated by what mortise bits you have but as I don’t know the overall size I can’t work anything else out…….please help thanks
Yes. The braces in a timber door always rise from hinges to support the latch top corner. They work in compression. If fitted the other way around they just add weight to the door and the joints will open up!
@@BradshawJoinery 👍😎 quality work ma man regardless I was always taught there is many correct ways so it's good to see and learn mainly exterior joinery I do bridges gates decking etc enjoy the videos alot so keep it up 👍
Hi, I've watched the whole video. Quick question, why the 9 deg bevel on the middle rail (and is it only on the middle rail)? I don't think you explained this in the video. I can guess that it helps to make the braces look like there is a snug fit? One cut of the braces needs the same bevel.. Isn't it overly complicated? I have a feeling I could easily mess it up!
Can you help me settle a debate? My dad during his apprenticeship was taught that the T&G boards should be slid in tight (approx 3mm too wide overall) and compressed down and fixed to allow for shrinkage. Every time I’ve tried to assemble a door this way it has been a nightmare and all the hammering to slide them in causes shakes etc. I have never seen anyone else do it the way he does but he’s adamant that it’s the correct way. I’ve noticed yourself and others putting a 1mm spacer between all the boards (even with Accoya which surprises me. Is that for expansion? We’re working with European redwood btw.
Your dad is correct if the door is going inside.... if its exposed to extreme weather then no. If making the door/ gate with green materials then youd do as your dad suggests. But dry redwood outside will push your stiles off or pop the boarding
@@BradshawJoinery thank you so much for the reply! We have argued about this for years, and as you’ve pointed out on one occasion we did have a door that opened its joints at the tenons.
Another great video. I have 3 arched gates in garden walls to maintain and 2 require some repairs to keep them going, your video has given me a better understanding of the approach I should take. Question: I think my gates are constructed from a softwood and I have some old pitch pine that I was intending to use for the repairs, but should I use a specialist hardwood such as accoya? (The gates are all painted so the finish won’t be affected).
Thanks Chris, Tbh, i would either use a matching timber of the same species or Accoya, i wouldnt be putting hardwood repair in a softwood door. If you have some pine already and its of suitable size/quality then use that! Sourcing small quantity of accoya will be hard work and £££
I used a brass with Double phosphor bronze washers. I would avoid ball bearing for fully exposed use. If you want that style of hinge look to Coastal ironmongery for their blu range lift off type hinges.
Hi Roger, the glue is polyurethane adhesive, i have used various ones my favourite being the sovereign chemicals pu rapid, but ive lost the area rep now so im using construction chemicals wood weld.
Thank you,always better to use a tried and tested product. Love the detailed videos, bit behind with watching . I notice you now have a wide belt sander , very jealous!
Great vid! Why do the boards sit over the bottom rail and not butt up to it, as happens with the top rail? i.e. why isnt the the bottom rail thickness the same as the stiles/top rail?
To stop it rotting basically. The bare face rail doesn't create a stop point for the water so it sheds straight down the boards and off. You can have a full thickness bottom rail but it won't last as long externally.
@@BradshawJoinery I can confirm Mr. Bradshaw's advice with the failure of my cedar gates. I did exactly as Nero P stated, with the bottoms of the vertical boards being housed inside the bottom rail with a rebate, same as the top. The end grain (at the bottom) wicked up the water and the ends of the boards rotted away. The rest of the door was sound. Mr. Bradshaw's design is superior in this regard, and I shall build future gates in this style.
I cannot remember, if might be mentioned in the more detailed videos, follow the link in the description. If I had to guess, I think it was African walnut sadolin classic
I'm a bit late to the party but...As regards moving your mortice fence clamp all the time. You might want to consider drilling and tapping a new set of holes where it suits better. Save you constantly moving the clamp for routine jobs
Cheers Mark, yeah ive been batting a few ideas about in my head for that, the old multico i sued to use had a dovetail slide front to back and you just locked the clamp where you wanted it. obviusly it needs flushing into the bed but i have a low profile section and could add a sub bed to suit the same thickness which would work i think!
Thanks Graham, The amazon link is working for me, i have just tested if, but thankyou for letting me know. Its the 5-10mm deburring bit you want. Have a look on ebay they are fairly cheap from china. takes a while to turn up though
@1:04:23 when you had the center scored and penciled why didn't you just put the piece of wood under the frame and make sure it was center to center both ends then pencil in the corners rather than trying to judge from the top ??
i think i did pretty much that, pencil mark the underside at 1:05:51 i just used the straight to get the angle accurately off the door for the saw. the lines wil need squaring up still as the rails on the door are bevelled...
Good video - lots of useful advice and tips. But suspect lengthy section on detailed setup of tenoning machine from 30:00 onwards is of little use to your likely audience, who won't have such a large and (very) expensive machine. Anyone who does is likely to be a pro, who won't need advice on its use. Your hobby woodworker audience is much more likely to use a router table or a table saw dado blade to cut the tenons.
Cheers Colin, yeah true, but i try to produce my how to videos as though training an apprentice. If you wanted to buy that machine to make a door, where would you get the info from and all the tips and tricks of how to use it if not a detailed video like the above... at which point you may consider it a gold mine! Im not really aiming my audience at hooby, many viewers may be and no doubt can take things from such info, if not directly relative to the specific machine, but how to approach the project, and the methodology of how to achieve the joint/get repeatable results is transferrable to any method of actually doing it. Im not going for a big audience, rather keep some skills and knowledge alive and available to people who may not have had the oppourtinity to learn it using conventional methods.
I’m bidding on the exact tenoner and, if I win it, I’m going to watch that section at least 10 times. Lol. I’ve found these videos have really helped me and given me confidence to do more joinery work and for that I’m very grateful. Top class.
If you haven't figured it out yet, Jud, and you likely haven't, these aren't quickie wood working video's for wankers looking to fill a void in their life. He approaches this as a mentor, teaching someone not just the technique, but also the thinking behind the technique. If you are looking for entertainment and not so much into thinking, You Tube is overflowing with 5-minute videos of amateurs making crap.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
We have set up a Patreon page, if you would like to support us please go to patreon and search Bradshaw Joinery or click the link - patreon.com/BradshawJoinery
"Gaining knowledge is the first step to wisdom,sharing it is the first step to humanity" . Thank you so much !!!
Ianis #TopFan Thankyou for your support kind sir.
Brilliant video. Pure craftsmanship.
It’s nice to watch some beautiful timber get proper TLC after spending the year smashing kits up. 😆👍🏻
Thankyou for that! Much appreciated.
Thanks mate for showing such interesting and educational videos, it is much appreciated as far as I am concerned, my only criticism is that I would like to see more, in these challenging times such videos can help to retain ones sanity and faith in the younger generation, please keep up the good work........10/10.
Rich, you are a legend, thankyou for your kind words. I try my best with the content, but have found myself somewhat overwhelmed with work commitments, thus filming is hard work to fit in. I have some content to trickle out though.
What an absolutely fantastic video! Very in-depth, clear and easy to understand. Quality work too! Many thanks!
Artisan craftsmanship has a hypnotic quality. Thank you for a beguiling video.
Thankyou Mike! Nappy new year :)
Best 1 hour and 44 minutes all lock down, well done.
Legend, Cheers Leon!
Great video, well explained. It helped me to make my garden gate. Great tips about making the boards the same size👍👍
Nice one Kenny, I love hearing of jobs being completed after watching the videos, bloomin awesome
Congrats- It's beautiful !
Thankyou Jean-pierre 👍🙌
Great video loads of useful tips as usual
Cheers Pete! Good the hear from you again.
Very sharp.
Thank you! :)
A grand job as always,Oli..
Cheers Larry, Took kind as ever.
Thanks for the videos, you display excellent skills and amazing attention to detail. I live near a village called Bradshaw in Halifax West Yorkshire.
Gordon.
Thankyou Gordon! HAha ive never heard of that! i had a look on Google, thankyou for saying!
I enjoy you videos so much , and learn a ton...thank you !!!!!
Nice one Kapt!
Thank you for such an educational video. I love (hate :)) watching such skillful people make my efforts look so pityful. :) My woodworking training ended when I left school in 1969 but I still do some and I did become a mechanical engineer and then retrained as an electronic engineer so Im not totally useless but old age is catching up on me. What you achieved in, what 2 days? would take me 2 weeks at least.
I have serious equipment, material and skill envy but I will take away some tips and tricks! LOL. I have 2 traditional yurt doors and frames that need repair or replacement because of insect infestation and shrinkage and I havent decided on my way forward yet.
Here in Portugal the price of good timber is criminal if you can find a local supplier and yet every village in my area still has a carpenters shop.
Apologies for the ramble but keep up the content. It inspires me.
Haha, dont put yourself down! It is my profession not just a hobby! Yeah it was 2 days work, its probably a 3 day job, but i am so busy i put some hours in and got it completed!
I generally only opt for repair if the majority/upper part of the piece is in good order. if this door had rot in every rail/panel i definitley would be replacing.
what is the main timber in portugal for external work?
@@BradshawJoinery I dont know is the honest answer buy Ill try and find out. There isnt much visible exterior woodwork to be seen locally. Eucalyptus is the dominant tree to be seen growing. Huge plantations harvested every 5 - 10 years for pulp. When treated its used as lathes and gravel boards.
@@BradshawJoinery Locals use the Euc green for rustic roundwood construction or pallet wood. Niether last long.
Great video with some really good professional advice, I know this will be invaluable when I start my next project - Thanks
Cheers Shaun, that's good to know! There are a few bideonls on door making I'm sure I've covered most of the details amongst them!
Great build !!!!
Cheers Again Michael! :)
Hiya mate
As I’m writing this I’ve got a big smile on my face I just love your work so much very talented and I must admit this is the second time I’ve watched this video and you still impress me with your talent 🪚🪚👍👍👍👍
Cheers Carl! Love to read your comments, thankyou!
Beautiful!!!
Cheers Jim, Its a Lovely gate.
Super job!
Thankyou very much JOhn.
Master Class. Thanks
Thankyou. There is an actual class on these in the link in description 😂👍
Thanks so much for such good work, so much détails. Why don't you sell the sketch up plans détails.
All the best.
Cheers Marc, What would you expect when buying plans? Im not totally sure what would be of interest!
I like the CAD's
Cheers Paul!
@@BradshawJoinery what software is it please?
Great video, very informative and helpful. Just wish I had access to some of the machinery you use. Going to be making 2 sets of these gates/doors in the next couple of weeks, prob take me about a month using the tools I have. Due to price of timber I will probably use pine and put a heavy coat of oil paint on it. Just hope the soft wood does not cause to much problem with seasonal change.
Thankyou Derek. Yes to build up a machinery workshop has been a sacrifice to say the least!
Best thing you can do with pine is treat the insides of the joints and tenons etc with preservative pre glue up and let it dry out well. Same with all the boarding, 2/3 coats on the grooves and the backs of the boards and rails where they touch to seal them will double the life of the door easily.
@@BradshawJoinery yip I can relate to that, not been able to work due to ill health since 2015 and has taken me about 2 1/2 years to save up enough to get a table saw and thicknesser planer. Plenty of sacrifice. Both machines from the felder hammer range. Now it's time to get new doors for the workshop built and then start the renovation of my house. Just found your channel last week and love the detail that you put into the videos. I find your way of teaching easy to follow and understand. Thank you.
fantastic work,thanks for the vid..stay safe.......................dougie
Nice one Dougie! :)
The Rolls-Royce of exterior doors - impressive cabinetry skills applied to door making! A potential heirloom object which will quite possibly outlast the dwelling to which it's attached! Deserving of stainless-steel ironmongery perhaps? The UK climate is tough on mild steel outdoors even when galvanized which prompts the question, although common wisdom in the trade is that the vertical boards should not be glued to the rails and braces, with modern adhesives, which can flex while maintaining adhesive integrity, isn't there a case for it? Steel fasteners, whether screws or nails will in time rot out leaving the wood still in good condition, assuming treatment at prescribed intervals, and the boards will consequently come loose.
I have used galvanised ironmongery on accoya about 7 years ago with no detrimental effect so feel it should be ok, but yes Stainless hardware is becoming more readily available! With Accoya you could glue the boards. I would not glue normal timber, the adhesive will hold which is where the problem lies.. it warps the door with any movement! I use Stainless fasteners, the Brad nails are 40mm Stainless Steel. Mild steel wouldnt last 5 minutes outside in Accoya.
@@BradshawJoinery If it was mentioned that the nail gun used for fixing the boards was loaded with stainless steel, I missed it. So, your explanation answers my concern. Spot on. Re. Accoya. I've researched it without finding the answer. Do you know if the logged timber is pre-seasoned before acetylation or is that step just skipped? Thanks.
I'm not sure if I mentioned it but yeah I always but stainless Brad's now, even for internal work.
The Accoya is kilned before treating, then after acetylation it is dried again so it arrives very dry.
I have stumbled across your channel from what I have seen it's very good. Just wondered how long would it take you to make this door.
Many thanks Matthew
Its 2/3 day make, one day install Could make the door and frame in a day but wouldnt be overly finesse!
@@BradshawJoinery thank you
Great work buddy ! I’m going to try to make one of these myself and have a question…….what overall size is the thickness of the frame? 45mm? Im going to do a cutting list and don’t really know what suitable size my T and G boards should be for thickness, i understand that the middle and bottom rail tenons are dictated by what mortise bits you have but as I don’t know the overall size I can’t work anything else out…….please help thanks
Are the braces going the correct direcion ?
Yes. The braces in a timber door always rise from hinges to support the latch top corner. They work in compression. If fitted the other way around they just add weight to the door and the joints will open up!
hi quick question how would I be able to keep the brace to 45 degrees angle?
Set the mitre saw to 45 degrees and make the cuts
Very nice job....🪵🌲
Thankyou Lukas!
For anyone interested, I found a gem of a book from Lost Art Press - Door making and window making for carpenters and joiners.
Nice one, thanks for helping 👍🙌
Class joinery 😎build my gates slightly different but nice job 👏👍
Cheers Buddy, every joiner seems to be different it really is interesting!! ive not come across two that do the same methods
@@BradshawJoinery 👍😎 quality work ma man regardless I was always taught there is many correct ways so it's good to see and learn mainly exterior joinery I do bridges gates decking etc enjoy the videos alot so keep it up 👍
when you're this good you don't measure twice
Haha! Sometimes. Trouble.is the projects seem to get more expensive and involved so I end up measuring 3 times now lol
Hi, I've watched the whole video. Quick question, why the 9 deg bevel on the middle rail (and is it only on the middle rail)? I don't think you explained this in the video. I can guess that it helps to make the braces look like there is a snug fit? One cut of the braces needs the same bevel.. Isn't it overly complicated? I have a feeling I could easily mess it up!
The bevel is because that rail can hold water... since its a gate and exposed on all sides. A flat rail top will trap moisture.
Can you help me settle a debate?
My dad during his apprenticeship was taught that the T&G boards should be slid in tight (approx 3mm too wide overall) and compressed down and fixed to allow for shrinkage. Every time I’ve tried to assemble a door this way it has been a nightmare and all the hammering to slide them in causes shakes etc. I have never seen anyone else do it the way he does but he’s adamant that it’s the correct way. I’ve noticed yourself and others putting a 1mm spacer between all the boards (even with Accoya which surprises me. Is that for expansion?
We’re working with European redwood btw.
Your dad is correct if the door is going inside.... if its exposed to extreme weather then no. If making the door/ gate with green materials then youd do as your dad suggests. But dry redwood outside will push your stiles off or pop the boarding
@@BradshawJoinery thank you so much for the reply! We have argued about this for years, and as you’ve pointed out on one occasion we did have a door that opened its joints at the tenons.
HI what gauge nailer did you use? many thanks
18g on this, 40mm long fired at alternate angles on the board, Stainless steel ones!!!!
Another great video. I have 3 arched gates in garden walls to maintain and 2 require some repairs to keep them going, your video has given me a better understanding of the approach I should take.
Question: I think my gates are constructed from a softwood and I have some old pitch pine that I was intending to use for the repairs, but should I use a specialist hardwood such as accoya? (The gates are all painted so the finish won’t be affected).
Thanks Chris, Tbh, i would either use a matching timber of the same species or Accoya, i wouldnt be putting hardwood repair in a softwood door. If you have some pine already and its of suitable size/quality then use that! Sourcing small quantity of accoya will be hard work and £££
@@BradshawJoinery Hi Rob, Much appreciated. Thank you. Chris😎
Hi there, loved the video. Can I ask what type of butt hinges did you use? Are ballbearing hinges suitable for this type of installation? Thanks
I used a brass with Double phosphor bronze washers. I would avoid ball bearing for fully exposed use. If you want that style of hinge look to Coastal ironmongery for their blu range lift off type hinges.
Thank you so much for your reply. That information is very helpful. I’m doing the job next week and don’t want to be called back in a month😂
Hello , what clear adhesive do you use in the tube ?
Hi Roger, the glue is polyurethane adhesive, i have used various ones my favourite being the sovereign chemicals pu rapid, but ive lost the area rep now so im using construction chemicals wood weld.
Assuming you mean the glue and not the sikkens V groove sealant?
Thank you,always better to use a tried and tested product.
Love the detailed videos, bit behind with watching .
I notice you now have a wide belt sander , very jealous!
Try keeping the glue in the refrigerator before the glue up, for real no jokes 😉
Great vid! Why do the boards sit over the bottom rail and not butt up to it, as happens with the top rail? i.e. why isnt the the bottom rail thickness the same as the stiles/top rail?
To stop it rotting basically. The bare face rail doesn't create a stop point for the water so it sheds straight down the boards and off.
You can have a full thickness bottom rail but it won't last as long externally.
@@BradshawJoinery Interesting, thanks! I initially had my design symmetric but I've now changed it :-)
@@BradshawJoinery I can confirm Mr. Bradshaw's advice with the failure of my cedar gates. I did exactly as Nero P stated, with the bottoms of the vertical boards being housed inside the bottom rail with a rebate, same as the top. The end grain (at the bottom) wicked up the water and the ends of the boards rotted away. The rest of the door was sound. Mr. Bradshaw's design is superior in this regard, and I shall build future gates in this style.
What color was the Stan
I cannot remember, if might be mentioned in the more detailed videos, follow the link in the description. If I had to guess, I think it was African walnut sadolin classic
I'm a bit late to the party but...As regards moving your mortice fence clamp all the time. You might want to consider drilling and tapping a new set of holes where it suits better. Save you constantly moving the clamp for routine jobs
Cheers Mark, yeah ive been batting a few ideas about in my head for that, the old multico i sued to use had a dovetail slide front to back and you just locked the clamp where you wanted it. obviusly it needs flushing into the bed but i have a low profile section and could add a sub bed to suit the same thickness which would work i think!
Do you have a link to the deburring cutter. Ps your amazon link does not work.
Thanks Graham, The amazon link is working for me, i have just tested if, but thankyou for letting me know. Its the 5-10mm deburring bit you want. Have a look on ebay they are fairly cheap from china. takes a while to turn up though
@1:04:23 when you had the center scored and penciled why didn't you just put the piece of wood under the frame and make sure it was center to center both ends then pencil in the corners rather than trying to judge from the top ??
i think i did pretty much that, pencil mark the underside at 1:05:51 i just used the straight to get the angle accurately off the door for the saw. the lines wil need squaring up still as the rails on the door are bevelled...
Any idea what the price/cost of this job is?
Off the top of my head it was about £1200 but im sure it would be more now as Accoya has gone up 50%
Good video - lots of useful advice and tips. But suspect lengthy section on detailed setup of tenoning machine from 30:00 onwards is of little use to your likely audience, who won't have such a large and (very) expensive machine. Anyone who does is likely to be a pro, who won't need advice on its use. Your hobby woodworker audience is much more likely to use a router table or a table saw dado blade to cut the tenons.
Cheers Colin, yeah true, but i try to produce my how to videos as though training an apprentice. If you wanted to buy that machine to make a door, where would you get the info from and all the tips and tricks of how to use it if not a detailed video like the above... at which point you may consider it a gold mine! Im not really aiming my audience at hooby, many viewers may be and no doubt can take things from such info, if not directly relative to the specific machine, but how to approach the project, and the methodology of how to achieve the joint/get repeatable results is transferrable to any method of actually doing it. Im not going for a big audience, rather keep some skills and knowledge alive and available to people who may not have had the oppourtinity to learn it using conventional methods.
I’m bidding on the exact tenoner and, if I win it, I’m going to watch that section at least 10 times. Lol. I’ve found these videos have really helped me and given me confidence to do more joinery work and for that I’m very grateful. Top class.
1:09:52 and 👌🤤❤️ you make me want to be a carpenter
👍
Aaaayy up
@@BradshawJoinery 👋
Another sweet vid. 👍 U have inspired me to make some vids check out listerjoinery cheers Olly.
Cheers Buddy, will do!
why not the sound of the machines doing the work instead of that annoying music....goneeeee
As i said, working on it, the channel is growing man
Vid is WAAAAAAAAAYY TOOOOOOOOOOOO LOOOOOOOOOOONNNGG!!!!!! Keep it to about 20ish minutes.
There is a short version bud,l. You cannot teach someone to do this in 20 minutes. ruclips.net/video/gEmJ259d4kE/видео.html
If you haven't figured it out yet, Jud, and you likely haven't, these aren't quickie wood working video's for wankers looking to fill a void in their life. He approaches this as a mentor, teaching someone not just the technique, but also the thinking behind the technique. If you are looking for entertainment and not so much into thinking, You Tube is overflowing with 5-minute videos of amateurs making crap.