Machining Sawtooth Shelf Strip. Adjustable Cabinet Shelving
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- Thank you for tuning in. This is the method I use for machining sawtooth detail into the timber to create an adjustable shelving system.
If you wish to download the plans for SketchUp Pro and the PDF document please head to - / bradshawjoinery
To see how the shelving works tune in to an older video here...
How to install sawtooth adjustable shelving video - • Saw Tooth Adjustable S...
Disclaimer - While this is the method I use please do not follow or copy anything I have done in this video unless you are competent to do so. Using a cutter like this in the wrong machine or in a unsafe manner can have serious safety concerns, especially in leightweight radial arm saws therefore I do not advise you copy or recreate anything seen in this video.
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Very clever setting up your tools. Especially like the wedge on the sander to match. Thanks.
Thankyou Albert! Unfortunately the sanding profiles only work on that Linear sander and not normal ones and i think it might be stopping production on that machine soon. (according to a rumour)
I’ve been waiting for this one thought you had forgotten you said you’d show it ages ago in previous video ! 👍 keep them coming
Haha Cheers David, Not forgotten ive just not made any since then!!!
It’s a good system and perfect for good quality work - I find more of my customers wanting details like that and less plastic/metal in their joinery. Nice timber storage in the video too hopefully all for upcoming work you have on , your going to do well with the skills and attention to detail you have , keep posting vids 👍
I need to get my hands on that festool belt sander and frame.
They are superb tbh. Buy one before they get rare. I think they discontinued them
@@BradshawJoinery they never sold them in the US.
Lovely job again, you constantly amaze me what made you think of using a tenoning disc in a crosscut saw. Great work keep it coming Ollie
Cheers Pete, Its just a restless mind looking for a solution to a problem really. I love problem solving and coming up with practical solutions!
That's a great method, thanks to share you knowledge! But with all this workload involved, I really couldn't apply that to my jobs, unfortunately, any of my clients will pay this level de details on shelf regulations that is never moved anyway! Keep up your awesome job !!
Cheers bud, Its not too bad tbh, 13 cabinets worth, some full height took me a day.
impressive workshop mate
Thankyou, its taken years to setup!!!
I hope to share with us,as ussual,the making of Andrew's kitchen.My greetings from Crete !!!
There may be little bits but not the whole thing im afraid
excellent bit of kit that,nice job bud,great vid as usual..............stay safe...........dougie
Cheers Dougie, Does the job! needs a bespoke cutter making ideally though
Another exciting Scott Brown reference!
Haha Not seen much of him lately
Creative and informative as ever Ollie....
Cheers Vernon :)
Good use of the Festool linear sander👍
Cheers Pete, yes pays for itself on this task alone.
I think that bit of duct tape where the hose bends going into the PT is a universal thing in every workshop 😂
HAha!! pretty much! Sawdust seems to eat the flexible hoses!
I guess there is some friction at the turn there, especially machining harder wood with more abrasive chips. I replaced all the 125 and 150 Flexi last year with new stuff. I reckon it was about 70% tape by weight prior to that 😂 still need to do the 4" yet though.
Nice one Ollie.. why was I not expecting you to use a Tenon Saw to create this 😉
Cant think why not Paul, its obviously its intended use!! HAHa
Ok have a couple of questions. When making a 1 3/4 thick door what size of gap do you leave on the opening side from the frame? also do you bevel it or just keep it square? If you know of any good books or web pages on making door please share. Thanks allot, First time im making some doors.
dependign on spec you want 2-3mm External 3mm, internal 2mm. Always back bevel the leading edge
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks boss, Ive been reading both sides should be beveled.
On a door 2.5-3mm at the door face and then a bevel back so that when the door opens the gap Neve gets smaller than that. I'd look to be around 4.5 degrees. Usually leave a 5mm flat on the front so the door doesn't go to a sharp point
num 1 fan lol
Awesome!!! :D
Anyone remember 50 years ago when radial arm saws were popular? Craftsman sold an attachment that accepted cutters. I don't think it made a very smooth cut either.
I hadnt seen that before. and no i dont remeber it from 50 years ago! haha
Yay, radial arm saws; you could do loads of stuff with those - still can I guess.
I have a Dewalt radial arm saw and it came with a similar attachment that has 3 cutters in the head and sets of profile cutters. Never been brave enough to try it but I may after watching this.
Be very careful with the DeWalt RAS they are lightweight. This saw head/arm on mine is probably 100kg plus so it never gives any kickback.
I'm not sure if the DeWalt saws were designed to be turned 90 degrees so you could rip timber down and use the moulding attachment? Only problem being the blades spin the wrong way and try to throw everything at your face 🤣
@@BradshawJoinery Yes they can swivel 90 degrees - in two axis. Think it may handle the bookshelf strip though. I'll let you know how I get on providing I have enough fingers left to type with :-)
Why so many ads? But loved the work. That blade is a little intimidating but cool result.
I didnt set them up, but didnt realise there was 6 on there!!!!! Oh MY
FIRST
That was quick! 🤣☺️
@@BradshawJoinery ooo