$25 DIY 👨🏻🔧 **8Nm** Fanatec CSL DD 200W Power Supply Pack (Boost Kit 180 alternative!) 💪
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- A quick & easy $25 DIY build for a 24V/200W power supply, that should work with the Fanatec CSL DD wheelbase and give you the coveted 8 N·m.
The power supply unit used here can be found on Amazon: www.amazon.com...
Alternative link to another seller:
www.amazon.com...
(if a 200W PSU isn't available, you can also try 240W or even 300W; you can't go 'too big' only 'too small'.)
Its spec state 24V/200W/8A; I measured the 24V, so the 200W or 8A might be slightly off = it may be 192W or maybe it's 8.33A?
Cable also on Amazon: www.amazon.com...
(taken from the longer, complete Fanatec CSL DD Power Supply Guide version found here: • Fanatec CSL DD - Boost... )
followed this video and built build one for my 5nm CSL DD and works an absolute treat!! Wheel was good before - it's AWESOME now! Really recommend it - cost me £30 GBP from amazon for PSU and cable and came next day. beats £150 and a week+ direct from fanatec
AWESOME indeed!!! 👍👍👍
@@Polymer thankyou for your clear guide. Perfect guide, if you can wire a plug you can easily do this!
Is it simple case where to put your cables from the mother board extension two the left two two to the right as he didn't mention anything on that
@@kallumwilliams5707 Not quite sure I understand. There's a longer, more detailed video (maybe that will help?) here: ruclips.net/video/wVgVxpWgBOM/видео.html
@@kallumwilliams5707 Yes, he mentions it in the other longer video he linked in the description, but very simple, basically if you hold the plug facing you with the catch at the bottom, the top right and bottom left are the positive and the other 2 are the negatives. The cable I bought nicely had 2 separate colours and these were actually on the diagonal the same way.
not related to fanatec, but the turbo power brick that came with my thrustmaster ts-pc failed on me about a year ago and replaced it with a Mean Well LRS-350-24 and it has worked like magic ever since, no power loss, not over heating. Had to do some rewiring to go around the usb detection system, but that was it. Hopefully it'll be the same on the CSL DD.
Now that people are starting to get their DD hopefully we'll see some testing for this
I saw your recent post (before YT deleted it...maybe because of the links? Who knows...?).
Great news that it's working for you!
Posting your links for you: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R36YKPB
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MZV7148?th=1
Popular video. These are all sold out on Amazon.
I have 24V 260W power supply hope it has amp limiter inside couse its almost 1/3 more powerful than boost kit
It's absolutely crazy that they charge 150USD for not a 180W dc power supply, but rather the DIFFERENCE between the 90W and 180W. It really is just a scam.
Be fair, the CSL DD is being sold at a rather low margin so they are trying to make it back by selling expensive add-ons, pretty standard business strategy. In fact this is better for consumers because if you are tech-savy you can literally save a lot of money
Are these kinds of power supplies better or worse than the brick types? I'm no electrical engineer but it's switching noise something to be worried about?
I'm about to buy a Chinese one with variable output for my Moza wheelbase. Thanks for any insight!
Good work! Soon there will be lots of this stuff on aliexpress
C'mon like wtf, its literally a regular power supply for a laptop with a different plug, these cost like 70 euros but fanatec has to sell theirs for 180. I would understand 100 but 180 is a scam. That power supply bullshit is the exact reason why I wont buy the CSL DD, fanatec are literally selling you the base product that works at half of its capabilites untill you buy a powewrsupply that costs like half of CSL DD. By their price logic the powersupply included with DD1 costs 100 euros, so what about making the power supply optional and let the buyer chose between base and more powerful one for extra 80 euros. You buy the DD with boost kit and then have the basic powersupply laying around collecting dust, you can't use it on anything else because of connector so its there creating more electronic waste.
Actually you get either 90w or 180w, not both in more expensive version
My brother Thanks for the video, I bought this power supply today, after watching yours videos. Question: About the cable with the 4 pings, when you connected to power supply why you putting the way is because pin 1 and 3 are positive? you put 2 greens cables in the negative in the power supply and 2 black in the positive? I am little confuse. Please if you can help me . Last question: In the cable the come front the wall or outlet to power supply, how you know what is negative, positive and ground. thank you again for yours videos.
Thanks for the comment. No offense intended, but based upon your questions, I highly recommend you first read up and familiarize yourself with basic AC and DC electrical information.
I did NOT follow standard wiring colors for the DC output; in my example the two BLACK wires are POSITIVE 24V and the two GREEN wires are NEGATIVE 24V. DC standards would be RED = POSITIVE, and BLACK = NEGATIVE. As for the connection to the outlet/wall: that is AC current, NOT DC, so there's no POSITIVE or NEGATIVE. I can't see where you are located in the world, but here's two examples for typical AC wiring colors in the US and Europe:
1) USA: BLACK or RED = Line (Hot), WHITE = Neutral, GREEN or GREEN/YELLOW or bare copper = ground.
2) EUROPE: BROWN = Line (Hot), BLUE = Neutral, GREEN/YELLOW = Ground.
But again, I suggest you first read up on this stuff a bit, before attempting to solder and make this adapter!
I love how this video has all the perfect tools ready to do it clean and quickly.
I done this, 8nm what a difference the DD performs, done it all for £30
Power supply ebay
Power lead and connector Amazon.
Thank you my man saved me £120
Glad it worked out well for you 👍
there is a change to broke something?
What pins on the 4pin connecter should be 24 v and which should be ground?
I measured the power draw at maximum ffb in two games and never saw more than 25w at 240v, then with the 250w 24v 4 wire supply, power draw doubled, to only 50w maximum..
(dd pro base caveat)
measured at the socket so with inverter losses the actual output amperage is less.
I am pretty sure you can sell a molex converter and use the stock brick. it is more than enough, for 8nm!
what pins should be 24v and what should be ground in the 4 pin CPU connector? Looks like you connected top right, and low left to 24v, but other sources says that both top should be 24 v
You can watch the longer, full video here: ruclips.net/video/wVgVxpWgBOM/видео.html. Pin layout is mentioned at around the 2;53 mark.
Pin #1 and Pin #4 are 24V positive, Pin #2 and Pin #3 are 24V negative if you want the BOOST 8 Nm. If only pin #4 is positive, you are running it in 5Nm (no BOOST) mode.
@@Polymer Thank you so much!
So it looks like the CSL DD just does a voltage sense on that additional pin. Presumably by an opto in parallel and reconfigures the max current of the motor driver circuit.
Yes, that's what I figure also.
In the csl dd what is the negative and positive? 4 pin = 2+ and 2 -?
To get 8 Nm, it's pin 1 and 4 = V+, and pin 2 and 3 = V-.
Same CSL DD but only 5 Nm is pin 4 = V+, and pin 1, 2 and 3 = V-.
@@Polymer thanks works fine at the moment. My wheel arrived without original power suply and i didnt know how to conect that haha
Does the 24V/200W 8A power supply, the $20 option, have any internal protection? I have read on the Amazon reviews for these power supplies which all appear to look basically the same across many China based sellers, that there is no internal protection. Thanks for pointing out some options even though we can't be sure if Fanatec will put a protection chip in to identify what PSU is connected. At least until around September 6th when they start to ship the first wave of pre-order units.
Protection: Shortage Protection, Overload Protection, Over Voltage Protection.
None of which I tested, though. Yeah, final test is with an actual production CSL DD in September at the earliest.
Also, the link to the 200W power supply might not work; like you mentioned, the one I previously linked to isn't available anymore. You can't go 'too big', so a 240W, or 300W PSU will also work.
@@Polymer You can put the source with the intensity you want, from 10 Amps everything will work well, always with 24V. 10,20,30,100 Amp. It does not matter, the motor will take what it needs, it is like putting a 100W light bulb on the network, it will not consume more even if you have contracted 200Amp. I would buy a 24V 15Amp power supply. of recognized quality and that complies with the electrical regulations of each country (Mean Well is a source that will more than comply.
www.olfer.com/nuestras-marcas.html
@@JoseFcoBN Exactly! Thanks for the comment. 👍👍👍
I am looking todo this aswell, but I will go for the Meanwell 24V 10A psu they sell for industrial use. Its a bit more expensive $60, but their psu's are really really good.
I can only get the psu with 10A. Will that work
Do you foresee any issue using a 24 volts, 12.5 amps (300 watts) instead of 24 volts, 8 amps. The motor will only draw what it needs, right?
The main difference between the 5nm and 8 nm output is how the wiring of the plug provide. pin 2,1,3 neg , 4 positive for 5nm, or 2,3 neg and 1,4 pos for the 8nm.
Yes, you have all of that 100% correct. 👍👍👍
Hi,
I have a Meanwell HLG 240-24 LED drier which is a 240 Watt 24V DC constant voltage driver. It’s max rated current at 24V is 10 amps which I want to use as a CSL DD boost kit.
However what is special about this driver is that as soon as it connected to something that draws MORE then 10 Amps it switches from Constant Voltage into a Constant Current mode.
That might be a dumb question as I’m not an electrical expert, but I can’t find any info how much current the CSL DD draws Max. But I can’t imagine it is more then 10 amps?? Just want to avoid that the Meanwell driver switches into constant current mode.
Thanks!!
@@Polymer Hi !!
I have a Meanwell HLG 240-24 LED drier which is a 240 Watt 24V DC constant voltage driver. It’s max rated current at 24V is 10 amps which I want to use as a CSL DD boost kit.
However what is special about this driver is that as soon as it connected to something that draws MORE then 10 Amps it switches from Constant Voltage into a Constant Current mode.
That might be a dumb question as I’m not an electrical expert, but I can’t find any info how much current the CSL DD draws Max. But I can’t imagine it is more then 10 amps?? Just want to avoid that the Meanwell driver switches into constant current mode.
Thank you all !!!
@@Kanuel650 Yeah, those LED drivers can be a little tricky as they are designed for another purpose. I really couldn't recommend a purpose-build LED driver, unfortunately, as it may exhibit odd behavior for our DD purpose.
With this power supply, will I have more than 8Nm? I have put a 240watt one and I think I notice the strength that with the 180watt one..
No, this does not increase power - it's still 8Nm. You can put a 24V/5000W power supply on it, and it's still only 8Nm.
My PSU can't go over 23.5v, the wheel run normally for me. Do you think i get less nm cause of the low voltage ? thx
no, that shouldnt change the nm. What pins on the 4pin connecter should be 24 v and which should be ground?
@@sjelstrup Honestly i don't remember but you can find draws on internet easly. Thx for ur answer mate.
The ATX cable seems kinda short. Can you just daisy chain a few of those together?
You could add more ATX cables, but just keep in mind that more connections points = more potential issues. Should work though.
ive got a dd1 without a psu supplied with it when i bought it of someone would the 36 volt 10a 360w work for time being i know its 120 watts short of the power brick fanatec sell but couldnt find a cheap 500w 36v psu next day delivery
also the pin out is 2 positive and 3 negative with a pe sense pin with the pe sense pin do i shove that into ground or the v+
made a mistake and swapped + and -. Now the the little fuse from the DD is through. Do you know which one that is? It says JT8A on it. But it doesn't help me find the right one.
Not good, sorry to hear. Do have the broken fuse? Is it a glass fuse or mounted micro fuse? Obviously 8A, but the other designations I am unsure about. 8TA is common, but available in various versions.
Hey✌️Thanks for the Vid mate.
If i understand all Correct, the Boost Kit ist just a simple more Power Supply Pack than the standard one?
There is no Fanatec Software, DRM or stuff like that in the original supply?
Yes, that's exactly right. Nothing special at all, just a 180W/24V power supply (and the pin polarity is slightly different than the 90W non-Boost kit power supply).
@@Polymer wonderful. That save me a shit load of money 😂
what If I have an extras 600w PC PSU? cant I just use that? lol
You can, but with caveats (need a 12V to 24V step-up converter); that method is shown here: ruclips.net/video/wVgVxpWgBOM/видео.html
So it's just a 4 pin CPU cable? + and - to the power supply, no changes in the plug on the Fanatec side?
Yes (I think, I am not 100% sure I understand what you are asking, exactly).
I was summing up. 4 pin CPU cable. On the Fanatec side you plug such cable without any modification in the pin layout. On the power supply side you connect the black (-) and green (+) and then you connect the 220v cable. That's all...? So it's a "bare" 4pin CPU cable...
@@zzmadd Okay, then yes....EXCEPT: in this case black wires are (+) and green wires are (-).
Is there any safe way to case it?
Sure thing: the longer version of this video has enclosed cases as examples: ruclips.net/video/wVgVxpWgBOM/видео.html
Hi this may be a stupid question but would a 150w psu work ? I guess I won't be able to push the 8Nm but would it still be able to reach something like 7Nm or will it just have no difference ? ^^
Thank you for the video though and super super clean work on your end, big props !
It might get hot! :)
Not sure why you'd not just go with a 180W or higher PSU; unless you already have one laying around, maybe? But you are pushing your luck, it may very well be that if it's a REALLY good 150W/24V PSU that you could 'get away with it'.
And thanks for the kind words...
@@Polymer Thanks for the reply!! Indeed I have one laying around which is why I am wondering^^ It's a meanwell PSU so I think it's not bad, dunno about REALLY good. Anyways I guess I won't risk it and go for something higher then, thanks again!
@@Polymer @Polymer Hi again, sorry to bother again haha.
I managed to hook up the CSL to a 240w psu i found for cheap, and it all works good now TYSM again !
Now my new question is, when you ask for 100% FFB in the Fanatec hub, does it draw 180W, or will it try to draw the 240 my PSU can push?
And, correct me if I'm wrong but, if it would to try and pull the 240W, i would have to put around 67% FFB for it to draw those 180W ?
Sorry if this was answered already, didn't wonder very deep into the comments
@@RocKzDG it will draw what ever it need to get to 8Nm...likely even less than 180W...it will never draw more than what it needs to 'generate' 8Nm...
@@Polymer got it, tysm again 🙏🙏🙏
Has anyone tried this? I bought the Boost Kit 180, but have yet to receive my CSL DD.
Well, the "concept" works. See here: ruclips.net/video/wVgVxpWgBOM/видео.html
This particular combination ought to work also; there s no PSU handshake with the CSL DD wheelbase.
you are a genious. and in the fanalab software, it shows boost kit installed ? like the original one ?
Good question! I am not sure; if anyone could answer this, I'd appreciate it. I reckon it will show up as 'enabled', but can't verify....
Yes fanalabs recognise it as the boost kit as normal.
@@MySimRacer i already build one. Works perfect
@@MySimRacer Awesome, THANKS MySimRacer, for the confirmation.
I have found that some 24V/240W units come with a fan and others don't. Personally I've never used these Chinese units before, would you suggest purchasing one with or without the cooling fan?
Not sure a fan is necessary. A good quality 240W/24V PSU doesn't need a fan, IMO.
Is there any way to squeeze more than 8nm with a more power full PS?
If you mean "higher rated Amps" by "more power", then no, won't make one bit of difference.
Higher voltage (more than 24V DC) hasn't been tried AFAIK, but will likely fry the CSL DD, or simply not work (over-volt protection).
@@Polymer thanx
Can I ask something? How can you arranged negative and positive cables in 4 pin molex? I mean, are all the molex diagrams the same and we can plug it to the DD Pro (as DD pro also uses the universal diagram?) and just rewire to the appropriate side on the PSU, as blacks are negative and greens are positive? I am asking because I will tell this info to my electrician when he starts to make it, to prevent wrong -/+ wiring.
All MOLEX Mini-Fit Jr are physically the same, yes. That means they will plug into the CSL DD or CSL DD pro just fine. It will be up to you to wire them to work/act as a Boost Kit though. You can watch the longer, full video here: ruclips.net/video/wVgVxpWgBOM/видео.html. Pin layout is mentioned at around 2;53.
By the way, Pin #1 and Pin #4 are 24V positive, Pin #2 and Pin #3 are 24V negative -----> in this example the two BLACK wires are POSITIVE 24V and the two GREEN wires are NEGATIVE 24V.
@@Polymer That is the info I was looking for! Pins 1, 4 positive and 2, 3 Negative then. Thank you much! Then if we use a spare Cpu molex we should be very cautious before wiring it to PSU side since Cpu molex pin structure use 1, 2 positive and 3, 4 negative AFAIK.
@@Polymer BTW this diy boost kit also compatible with GT DD Pro right? I mean GT DD Pro also use the same 1, 4 positive 2, 3 negative right?
@@TuGyy I believe the DD Pro is the same, yes.
@@Polymer Thank you much!
Thanks man for this vid!
I would like to try this but I’m not sure about the connection of the four molex cables into the psu V- or V+
The molex cable I’ve found hasn’t the wires color crossed like yours.
Could you clarify this?
Definitely I’m not an expert
You can watch the longer, full video here: ruclips.net/video/wVgVxpWgBOM/видео.html. Pin layout is mentioned at around 2;53.
Pin #1 and Pin #4 are 24V positive, Pin #2 and Pin #3 are 24V negative.
@@Polymer hello, do positive and negative need to be each in separate link? My point is,i have 200w 24 v, but output is only in two cables..red and black, is it OK to connect two from molex in one from adapter? Thanks in advance.
@@vitprochazka6868 Hello. 2 x positive and 2 x negative need to be 'going to' the CSL DD, so the Molex that connects to the CSL DD needs two positive and two negative in exactly the way I show in the video ---> it's how the CSL DD recognizes if it's in BOOST MODE or not.
You can, however, take the ONE positive wire from your 200W/24V DC power supply and simply make a -Y- and go to TWO connections on the MOLEX plug, yes. Do the same with the NEGATIVE and you are good to go.
@@Polymer working well, thanks!
@@vitprochazka6868 GREAT!!! 👍👍👍
Has this been tested with the CSL DD?
Yes, the concept has been proven to work, see here (the main video): ruclips.net/video/wVgVxpWgBOM/видео.html
nice man, what a shit move from fanatec for their overpriced power supply
@@jackjamesp agree with you. That s just marketing. Cause the REAL Csl DD is the 8nm . The 5nm is just "underpowered".
@@jackjamesp Its still a shit move. Why not save on production and packaging and just sell the damn thing as 8nm, even if its like 50 bucks more. The whole thing with the two power supplies just rubs people the wrong way.
what size (awg) ferrule should i get for the wires?
Ferrule size is dictated by the AWG of the wires.
@@Polymer thanks for the quick response!
@@plusnone3623You're welcome. the ferrules are optional, by the way; not necessary; it just makes the whole thing a bit tidier.
@@Polymer trying this tomorrow will be back with updated results
What do I do when I have a problem with my CSL DD and Fanatec asks to send the original PSU as well?
Quite unusual to have a repair done to a device/equipment that also requires its power supply. If still in doubt & concerned, don't do this mod, is my best suggestion.