When I was young and building fences on the farm I grew up on, we did it just a bit differently. We did not use a wooden post as the cross member, we used a 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 steal pipe. Then, as we did not have portable power tools, we used a "brace and bit", with an adjustable sized bit, to put holes that faced each other in the fence posts into which we would put the pipe. If the pipe was a bit to long the good old fashioned hacksaw came into use. But typically we would just make the hole in the post a bit deeper or set the posts slightly wider. Only the corner post was completely set as this process started as the other post would need to "wobble" a little bit. Then we used a double strand of normal heavy duty, I think #9 wire, that we would wrap around the posts so they were parallel to each other, not in a figure 8. We then would pull the wire as tight as we could and tie it to itself near one of the posts, with the ends of the wire on the posts held in place with staples, typically more than one. At this point we would start to put the dirt (and rocks) in around the other post. We used a heavy smooth steal rod to bridge the gap between the wires in the middle of their length and rotated it around, causing the wire to twist on itself which would tighten the wire considerably. As it tightened up we would finish putting the dirt around the previously "wobbly" post. We knew the wire was tight enough when it just started "eating" into the wood of the post, at which time we would put in a couple more staples. The steal rod used for twisting would be left in place but the one end of it would be driven into the ground, only a short portion of it was left in the twisted wire pairs. We didn't want the twist on those wires coming undone. As I said, very close to what you are doing. Except I knew that my steal pipe, sticking down in those holes, wasn't going anywhere. No rolling or any or any other kind of movement, it was tight. We would stretch the woven fence with a "clamp" as wide as the woven fence that would bolt to the fence and would be connected to the draw bar of a tractor. We could pull that woven fencing tight, not quite like a fiddle string, but good enough for the job at hand. Once the woven fence was stapled to several posts (every third post was a wooden one, the rest steal) we could remove the clamp and wrap the trimmed end of the woven wire around the corner post and twist the strands around themselves, all held in place with more staples. Building a fence like that is a LOT of work. I learned to really appreciate electric fencing. ;-)
Evan, you have building the corner posts down pat and they will be there for a long time. I like watching you build things as you don't take short cuts and you build quality into any project you do and that is awesome.
I have built miles and miles of fencing contracted by the government and to their specs and your fencing is as good as any of what I have done. Great tutorial for the uninitiated.
Enjoyed the video Evan that was a awesome video that is a nice looking tractor 🚜 and your roller in the other video look good to I have a 678 new Holland roller it’s a 5 by 5 role me and dad clean it up yesterday I took off yesterday from work to get it ready got to grease it I will have to get some new belts for it later they are starting to wear out and them belts are not cheap looking forward to the next video and when you get some cows 🐄 😎👋🚜🇺🇸
It's so fun to see how far you've come with fencing 😁 I remember the barnyard fencing took quite a while 😂 I'm happy to hear you are adding a gate at the other end of the pasture. It makes so much sense 👍 I can't wait to see the steer in their new pasture ❤️
Pretty much do my fences the same way, except I run wire tensioners in an "X" pattern (both directions). One thing I will suggest is I top all of my posts with a 6" PVC Sewer and Drain Cap, with a 6" long piece of 6" S&D pipe glued inside of it. Makes a perfect fit on 6" wood posts. I secure it with 3 small stainless flathead screws. You can paint them any color you want, and the water will NEVER rot out the top of the post. Guaranteed. These caps are very inexpensive compared to buying actual post caps, which are $$$.
Aside from all the controversy regarding Z and H bracing I’d say you got it dialled in pretty good. I certainly have a way to go, Thanks it’s always a pleasure watching a man that knows what he’s doing.
I just love learning from you. I absolutely would've put the hole for the connecting rods in the middle of the rails 😏 and I wouldn't have done the wire bracing.😵 You think things out, but even when you make a mistake, you calmly think of a way to fix it, and you learn from your mistakes...and so do we. Thank you Evan!
This is incredibly helpful for the fence I'll be building. When the wife says she wants a mini Highland cow, I've learned to just say yes and work it out later.
@@lyricderbin That doesn't answer the question they asked. Yes that's what the wire hangs on but on the other side there are 2 staples hanging down that he said prevents the wire from cutting into the wood but where the pin is, it must just dig into the wood because no protection there. I personally don't think it matters a whole lot.
I manage a bison ranch. Perimeter fence braces were built with ratchet style tensioners. The interior fences were built with gripple tensioners. Haven’t had to touch the ratchet tensioners in 5 years. The gripples need yearly maintenance to keep them tight
Hey Evan! If I’m just trying to make a fence with some rustic wood just for aesthetic purposes (make it look more like I’m in the country when I go to the way back yard hydrangea garden, would I still need the high pencil wire? Also, I’m a 60 year old lady and I was wondering if I could hammer a T post in the ground and then (somehow?) attach the post to it so I wouldn’t have to dig a hole? I’m just going to use these post that you get at Lowe’s. I don’t know what they are called but they are thinner than yours and kinda flat on 2 sides and round on the other 2. Kind of oblong!
How long did you have your uprights in the ground before you put in the cross brace? I live in South Texas and I usually put my uprights in and let them set for about three weeks.
Did you plumb your corner posts straight vertical? I've seen where some people tilt the corner post away from the direction of the pull about 2" at the top. Thanks.
Because knowing my luck, if I drilled through from the opposite side I would miss the brace. So doing it the way I did, I know 100% that the hole is where I want it.
"Just a few acres farm" just did a breakdown of raising pigs to market. Cost, weight, butchering, feed etc. Everything you need to know on a small pig farm
Been ranching over 30 years and I STILL have yet to have anyone show me the benefits of an H brace in a fence rather than a Z brace on the pull corners. Suppose I need to figure out a way to get rid of this common sense I have.
Around here, everyone uses those metal z braces at the corners. Each one costs about $40. An H brace costs $8 for the post and about $2 for the pin. In just a small fence for about an acre, with two gates, I ended up with 12 junctions requiring bracing (2 each for the 4 corners and 2 each on either side of the gate). At a savings of $30 per brace, I saved around $360 using H braces. So, that would be one benefit.
@@67L48 And those H braces are NEVER as strong as the Z braces are. I always just cut drill stem pipe and would weld em up and have em already made to take out and put in. Never any wood to rot, wire to come loose, etc. Its a 1 and done deal with zero maintenance or repair. Old cowboy saying I have always lived by tho....."Good work aint cheap and cheap work aint good".
@@jamesweston3679 You said you’d never had anyone show you the benefit of an H brace over Z. I just gave you one. Regardless of whether or not Z braces are better overall, I literally have you a benefit of H over Z.
@@67L48 The only "advantage" I seen you speak of was the mention of a few dollars. Not sure I would call it as such when you compare the 2, but you do you.
I want a pick'm up truck like that one.......This is what my Granddaddy would have called a truck farm.......Easier to operate that large acreage farms....
When I was young and building fences on the farm I grew up on, we did it just a bit differently. We did not use a wooden post as the cross member, we used a 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 steal pipe. Then, as we did not have portable power tools, we used a "brace and bit", with an adjustable sized bit, to put holes that faced each other in the fence posts into which we would put the pipe. If the pipe was a bit to long the good old fashioned hacksaw came into use. But typically we would just make the hole in the post a bit deeper or set the posts slightly wider. Only the corner post was completely set as this process started as the other post would need to "wobble" a little bit. Then we used a double strand of normal heavy duty, I think #9 wire, that we would wrap around the posts so they were parallel to each other, not in a figure 8. We then would pull the wire as tight as we could and tie it to itself near one of the posts, with the ends of the wire on the posts held in place with staples, typically more than one. At this point we would start to put the dirt (and rocks) in around the other post. We used a heavy smooth steal rod to bridge the gap between the wires in the middle of their length and rotated it around, causing the wire to twist on itself which would tighten the wire considerably. As it tightened up we would finish putting the dirt around the previously "wobbly" post. We knew the wire was tight enough when it just started "eating" into the wood of the post, at which time we would put in a couple more staples. The steal rod used for twisting would be left in place but the one end of it would be driven into the ground, only a short portion of it was left in the twisted wire pairs. We didn't want the twist on those wires coming undone.
As I said, very close to what you are doing. Except I knew that my steal pipe, sticking down in those holes, wasn't going anywhere. No rolling or any or any other kind of movement, it was tight.
We would stretch the woven fence with a "clamp" as wide as the woven fence that would bolt to the fence and would be connected to the draw bar of a tractor. We could pull that woven fencing tight, not quite like a fiddle string, but good enough for the job at hand. Once the woven fence was stapled to several posts (every third post was a wooden one, the rest steal) we could remove the clamp and wrap the trimmed end of the woven wire around the corner post and twist the strands around themselves, all held in place with more staples.
Building a fence like that is a LOT of work. I learned to really appreciate electric fencing. ;-)
Evan, you have building the corner posts down pat and they will be there for a long time. I like watching you build things as you don't take short cuts and you build quality into any project you do and that is awesome.
I've built lots of fence. My next ones will be braced like this. Looks a lot better, and more structurally sound.
Your fences will be there for a long time. They look so nice.
I have built miles and miles of fencing contracted by the government and to their specs and your fencing is as good as any of what I have done. Great tutorial for the uninitiated.
Enjoyed the video Evan that was a awesome video that is a nice looking tractor 🚜 and your roller in the other video look good to I have a 678 new Holland roller it’s a 5 by 5 role me and dad clean it up yesterday I took off yesterday from work to get it ready got to grease it I will have to get some new belts for it later they are starting to wear out and them belts are not cheap looking forward to the next video and when you get some cows 🐄 😎👋🚜🇺🇸
Looks good Evan, always enjoy watching you build fences. Thanks for sharing with us. Fred.
You do know how to do fencing for sure! I enjoy you and your brides work. I think a lot of you you've taught me so much!
Good evening Evan, looks great, first time I ever seen a fence build that way. Steve from N.B Canada
It's so fun to see how far you've come with fencing 😁 I remember the barnyard fencing took quite a while 😂 I'm happy to hear you are adding a gate at the other end of the pasture. It makes so much sense 👍 I can't wait to see the steer in their new pasture ❤️
Very clever Evan , it’s very enjoyable to se how organized and knowledgeable you are doing your work
Pretty much do my fences the same way, except I run wire tensioners in an "X" pattern (both directions). One thing I will suggest is I top all of my posts with a 6" PVC Sewer and Drain Cap, with a 6" long piece of 6" S&D pipe glued inside of it. Makes a perfect fit on 6" wood posts. I secure it with 3 small stainless flathead screws. You can paint them any color you want, and the water will NEVER rot out the top of the post. Guaranteed. These caps are very inexpensive compared to buying actual post caps, which are $$$.
That is going to be a nice strong and beautiful fence.
Aside from all the controversy regarding Z and H bracing I’d say you got it dialled in pretty good. I certainly have a way to go, Thanks it’s always a pleasure watching a man that knows what he’s doing.
A thankless task but you’ll be thankful when it’s finished.
Yeah Evan, another great video
Very good DIY for building a fence cross brace. Good job I enjoy your videos.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It really helps me a lot.
You're a good instructor.
Thanks for bringing us along on the journey!
Nice to see a skill honed and speeded up. Looks good.
I just love learning from you. I absolutely would've put the hole for the connecting rods in the middle of the rails 😏 and I wouldn't have done the wire bracing.😵 You think things out, but even when you make a mistake, you calmly think of a way to fix it, and you learn from your mistakes...and so do we. Thank you Evan!
The way you built the fence braces will last for years and years. I enjoy watching your channel. Always something to do on a farm.
This is incredibly helpful for the fence I'll be building. When the wife says she wants a mini Highland cow, I've learned to just say yes and work it out later.
Nice Evan. Those fences will be there for a long time.
First one here. You guys amaze me all the time. Thank you
Good job Evan!
Awesome job Evan! Post corners look great! I tell you what Evan your audio is amazing! So clear!
Great job brother, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Hello Evan nice work. Have a great day
thank you for putting together such a simple to understand h brace video, highly appreciate it!
Came a long ways since the last time I saw you doing corner post. Great job
Great job and video ✌️ lots of work bro 💯✌️💚🌱
Very impressive and the job was done like a professional
Nicely done, that should last for years, cheers my friend.
I work for USDA and this is the same way we have fences built for contracts.
Thank for the great video. Looking to do my own fencing on our new homestead and this helps immensely.
Evan you used staples on one end to keep wire from digging into post. Why don't you use them on the other end post?
5:19
@@lyricderbin That doesn't answer the question they asked. Yes that's what the wire hangs on but on the other side there are 2 staples hanging down that he said prevents the wire from cutting into the wood but where the pin is, it must just dig into the wood because no protection there. I personally don't think it matters a whole lot.
It really looks more like a farm with the fence …great job
Thanks for the helpful video! Love all your videos! Keep up the awesome work!
Great work. Under 11minutes is impressive!
I find fencing oddly satisfying!
I remember your first one’s. Great job!
You make it look easy. I’ve been fencing for a while and still not that fast
I know there is a lot of ways to do this. What about notching marks in the surface of the posts...chainsaw etc...throw in tension wire etc etc
Like you side there is lots of ways to do it. I have tried several ways. I am sure what you are saying would work as well.
Awesome videos. Thank you for making these!
Impressive time on that brace! 👍
...good job, great lookin' fence, keep safe...
Great video,and great job!👍🏻👍🏻
Enjoyed watching. Really coming along
I remember those days in Kansas. Hedge post either freezing or hot. (Thinking to yourself don’t quit…. The power bill needs paid) 58 Here
Nice job on the fence, enjoyed watching
Nicely done. That’s the way I do it as well.
This video really help me how to put cross braces up. Thanks
Nice work, good job
Good job man enjoyed watching
Great job as always!!
Looks like your building braces in accordance with the EQUIP Program. That’s the way all mine are.
I manage a bison ranch. Perimeter fence braces were built with ratchet style tensioners. The interior fences were built with gripple tensioners. Haven’t had to touch the ratchet tensioners in 5 years. The gripples need yearly maintenance to keep them tight
Looking good, Evan! The steers will be in hog heaven!😜
Steer Heaven
Is it a bit warm over in your part of the world Evan. Shirt getting a bit damp with sweat. Keep hydrated Bro
Very smart, and safe, thanks
The bracing on my fences are either steel pipes where they are bolted or with the board twisted to remove the slack none of which I did
Hey Evan! If I’m just trying to make a fence with some rustic wood just for aesthetic purposes (make it look more like I’m in the country when I go to the way back yard hydrangea garden, would I still need the high pencil wire? Also, I’m a 60 year old lady and I was wondering if I could hammer a T post in the ground and then (somehow?) attach the post to it so I wouldn’t have to dig a hole? I’m just going to use these post that you get at Lowe’s. I don’t know what they are called but they are thinner than yours and kinda flat on 2 sides and round on the other 2. Kind of oblong!
Back in the day we used fence pliers and barbed wire.
Great job.
Question. Does the base of the brace wire create a foot trap? If so. What can you do to prevent the foot from beating trapped? Thanks for the video.
How long did you have your uprights in the ground before you put in the cross brace? I live in South Texas and I usually put my uprights in and let them set for about three weeks.
Evan, Videos that are 21 to 23 min make the most money
what kind of wire did you use for the bracing?
Did you plumb your corner posts straight vertical? I've seen where some people tilt the corner post away from the direction of the pull about 2" at the top. Thanks.
another great video
Evan, would you brace the posts differently if you were to attach a gate to it?
How do you brace the pole for the gate installation or is it strong enough to hold a large gate?
Good work I do this too
I'm turning 29 next month and have been installing fences since I was 14. what is that wire stretching tool that you're using??
Why not drill the thru hole after you install and level the brace?
Because knowing my luck, if I drilled through from the opposite side I would miss the brace. So doing it the way I did, I know 100% that the hole is where I want it.
Do you use concrete on your fence posts to set them
We rebate our stay post into both posts. Looks tidier. Plus the stay post is too low .
Kiwi fencer
Can the gripples be used? Great video.
What size auger bit do you use for the 8” post hole digger?
what is the name of this tool you use to stretch wire? I need to buy one
"Just a few acres farm" just did a breakdown of raising pigs to market. Cost, weight, butchering, feed etc. Everything you need to know on a small pig farm
9" or 12" auger for the digger?
Do you know what thickness of high tensile wire you used?
I believe it is 12.5 gauge
@@CountryViewAcres Thanks!
Cool....
What guage is the tensil wire
U should buy are couple horses
neat
Been ranching over 30 years and I STILL have yet to have anyone show me the benefits of an H brace in a fence rather than a Z brace on the pull corners. Suppose I need to figure out a way to get rid of this common sense I have.
You tell em 😂😂😂😂
Around here, everyone uses those metal z braces at the corners. Each one costs about $40. An H brace costs $8 for the post and about $2 for the pin.
In just a small fence for about an acre, with two gates, I ended up with 12 junctions requiring bracing (2 each for the 4 corners and 2 each on either side of the gate). At a savings of $30 per brace, I saved around $360 using H braces.
So, that would be one benefit.
@@67L48 And those H braces are NEVER as strong as the Z braces are. I always just cut drill stem pipe and would weld em up and have em already made to take out and put in. Never any wood to rot, wire to come loose, etc. Its a 1 and done deal with zero maintenance or repair. Old cowboy saying I have always lived by tho....."Good work aint cheap and cheap work aint good".
@@jamesweston3679 You said you’d never had anyone show you the benefit of an H brace over Z. I just gave you one. Regardless of whether or not Z braces are better overall, I literally have you a benefit of H over Z.
@@67L48 The only "advantage" I seen you speak of was the mention of a few dollars. Not sure I would call it as such when you compare the 2, but you do you.
How do you know what to torque it to?
I torque it as high as I can. About 400 foot pounds.
@@CountryViewAcres Thanks! Great video.
I want a pick'm up truck like that one.......This is what my Granddaddy would have called a truck farm.......Easier to operate that large acreage farms....
a nail saw would have done much more work than a hand saw don't you think
👍👍❤
"Honey. The kids are here!!"
ruclips.net/video/mtOD19C7J48/видео.html
That's a lot of baby goats
@@CountryViewAcres More than I've ever seen! I figured Rebekah would like to watch that one!
ruclips.net/video/ZOAE76fqosA/видео.html
HE ANT NO COWBOY
If I was you better something going around the other way to because cows are not stupid and I have seen it happen before just let you know that
People will watch anything on RUclips...
I don't see any braces.
Bla bla bla..