First of all you don't EVER use a machine like this without protective clothing on. 2nd of all you need steel toed shoes or boots and Thick leather gloves. Have you ever seen a carbide blade fly apart?! NEVER EVER touch the safety guide when its in use! Ever! This is a dangerous tool and an even more dangerous how to video
+Todd Ehling I have 3 different blades for it, they are all similar. Steel carbide tipped blades. The key is the saw. It's specifically meant to work with those type of blades.
+Eco Mouse It's a chop saw meant for those blades, it runs at 1300 RPM where the carbon type saws run closer to 2000, if you were to put one of these blades on a regular chop saw it would last 304 cuts. Ask me how I know :)
With as much metal as you cut , it might be time to invest in a real cold saw. The kind that has coolant going over the blade. I'm thinking about buying one myself.
I was thinking about the slab you had poured, don't know if you fixed already, but could you grind it smooth? Not sure what tools are available, but might be worth looking into.
+Smacky Gamer Well, Its definitely something I would like to have. Will probably add a large vertical bandsaw and also something like an ellis horizontal bandsaw, then after that cold saw.
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra Gary, you should look into a Marvel vertical bandsaw. We bought one here for work at an auction and this saw is awesome! It is probably 40 years old but works like a champ. Nice thing about this saw is that the table stays stationary and the head moves into the work plus it tilts 45 degrees both ways. Take Care, Reid
you can push the blade very hard. you almost have to let it fall through at its own pace. Also some beams and angle iron are hardened a bit from when they were formed.
@@turbocobra Thank you, today I pushed a bit harder and managed to cut through!. But after like 4 cuts the disk shrink and it is cutting less and less. In any case, I managed, thank you! :)
+asicerik I think it's a good question eric and I honestly don't know the answer to it. There are tons of studies on the various types of coolant/lubricant used in cutting/drilling. One of the key things is being able to put the heat of the cut into the actual chip it produces. You can tell this by looking at the color of the chips. This saw produces a gold/blue chip so you can tell it is putting the heat into the chip rather than the blade. They do make cold saw's with a similar type blade that run with lubricant, but the blades run at a slower speed. Even the contents of the coolant can vary in it's effectiveness. Not sure if you watch John Grimsmo but he did a video a while back talking about a new coolant that many are switching to called qualichem. here is a vid of him talking about it. ruclips.net/video/kQb_93TM83Y/видео.html
+asicerik To add on to what Gary is saying or to think about it in another way. On a chop saw lets say like only 10-20% of the blade's cutting edge is being used at a time, the remain 80-90% of the time the blade is cooling in open air and not cutting. With a drill bit your cutting edge is cutting 100% of the time, and the deeper you go with it the less it has anywhere to dissipate heat. Which is why what Gary is talking about putting the heat into the chip is so important. The chop saw can also easily kick its chips out the back where the drill has to push its hot chips up the length of the tool. I am more of a woodworker than metal but the same principals apply to any kind of cutting its all about heat management.
+Shut Yer Face Garage You have to understand that over here we aren't use to accomplishing much, so when something that seems basic to others actually works over here we kind of get excited
+Mopardude Just a wider top beam for the gantry crane, the first one I biult was only 8 ft wide, plenty to fit around the width of my truck bed, but not the trailer with fenders, so need the extra width to fit around the fenders.
First of all you don't EVER use a machine like this without protective clothing on. 2nd of all you need steel toed shoes or boots and Thick leather gloves. Have you ever seen a carbide blade fly apart?! NEVER EVER touch the safety guide when its in use! Ever! This is a dangerous tool and an even more dangerous how to video
Cuts like butter. Nice!
+RetroWeld Thanks Douglas, btw, congrats on the youtube trip, saw you on greg porters instagram posts, looked like you guys had a blast.
If you don't mind me asking what's the name of the blade you're using on your chop saw?
+Todd Ehling I have 3 different blades for it, they are all similar. Steel carbide tipped blades. The key is the saw. It's specifically meant to work with those type of blades.
@@turbocobra do you have any experience with the brand of cut off saw called Evolution?
Waht dewalt model chop saw is that.
Is that a regular "Chop Saw" with just a steel cut blade added? Don't they run at different RPMs?
+Eco Mouse It's a chop saw meant for those blades, it runs at 1300 RPM where the carbon type saws run closer to 2000, if you were to put one of these blades on a regular chop saw it would last 304 cuts. Ask me how I know :)
Wondering how many blades he went thru
With as much metal as you cut , it might be time to invest in a real cold saw. The kind that has coolant going over the blade. I'm thinking about buying one myself.
Work with what you have, nice job Gary.
+Bill De La Vega thanks Bill, yea it's a better job for a horizontal bandsaw but i don't have one (yet, lol) take care sir.
I was thinking about the slab you had poured, don't know if you fixed already, but could you grind it smooth? Not sure what tools are available, but might be worth looking into.
Sweet. Got plans to add a cold saw to your collection of shop toys?
+Smacky Gamer Well, Its definitely something I would like to have. Will probably add a large vertical bandsaw and also something like an ellis horizontal bandsaw, then after that cold saw.
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra Gary, you should look into a Marvel vertical bandsaw. We bought one here for work at an auction and this saw is awesome! It is probably 40 years old but works like a champ. Nice thing about this saw is that the table stays stationary and the head moves into the work plus it tilts 45 degrees both ways.
Take Care,
Reid
Great saw. I love mine.
+Abc Defg Yea that are really good saw's, can't believe how long the blade has lasted on this one.
nice where u get that blade from
What blade is used? Friction or Carbide?
Can I use Abrasive Chop Saw to cut Steel I beam IPE - 8 or 10 ?
What disk are you using? Because today I tried to do the same and after like 5 minutes I could cut nothing!
you can push the blade very hard. you almost have to let it fall through at its own pace. Also some beams and angle iron are hardened a bit from when they were formed.
@@turbocobra Thank you, today I pushed a bit harder and managed to cut through!. But after like 4 cuts the disk shrink and it is cutting less and less. In any case, I managed, thank you! :)
I have a stupid question : why does one use oil/lube/coolant when drilling metal, but not with the chop saw?
+asicerik I think it's a good question eric and I honestly don't know the answer to it. There are tons of studies on the various types of coolant/lubricant used in cutting/drilling. One of the key things is being able to put the heat of the cut into the actual chip it produces. You can tell this by looking at the color of the chips. This saw produces a gold/blue chip so you can tell it is putting the heat into the chip rather than the blade. They do make cold saw's with a similar type blade that run with lubricant, but the blades run at a slower speed. Even the contents of the coolant can vary in it's effectiveness. Not sure if you watch John Grimsmo but he did a video a while back talking about a new coolant that many are switching to called qualichem. here is a vid of him talking about it. ruclips.net/video/kQb_93TM83Y/видео.html
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra Thanks Gary!
+asicerik To add on to what Gary is saying or to think about it in another way. On a chop saw lets say like only 10-20% of the blade's cutting edge is being used at a time, the remain 80-90% of the time the blade is cooling in open air and not cutting. With a drill bit your cutting edge is cutting 100% of the time, and the deeper you go with it the less it has anywhere to dissipate heat. Which is why what Gary is talking about putting the heat into the chip is so important. The chop saw can also easily kick its chips out the back where the drill has to push its hot chips up the length of the tool. I am more of a woodworker than metal but the same principals apply to any kind of cutting its all about heat management.
Learned quite a bit from this question. Thanks everybody
+SprayWayCustoms Yeah, me too. Thanks!
Poor Dewalt, it did the job within it's limits !!
+lakesideranch Oh yea we are pushing it right to the edge of it's limits :) Thanks Doug
Why u stand just in front of the disk???
What kind of blade?
Nice.
Heavy metal,rock on buddy. :-)
very nice Gary
Cool. I would have guessed it wouldn't really be a problem. ?
+Shut Yer Face Garage You have to understand that over here we aren't use to accomplishing much, so when something that seems basic to others actually works over here we kind of get excited
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra please sir. And who's this "we"?
+Shut Yer Face Garage
Gary and Mr. Smooth :)
Nice and clean.
clean cut too
getting it done it what you do
+vwdarrin Oh yea, trying to thanks Darrin
I think you'd have got through it if you had turned the I beam it on it's edge.
Next time. God bless.
Good job!
+The Shade Tree Fix-it Man Thanks George
well done
Sweet!
+tomswonderfulworld Thanks Tom
Cool
I hope you had ear plugs in!
Building anything interesting with that big beam?
+Mopardude Just a wider top beam for the gantry crane, the first one I biult was only 8 ft wide, plenty to fit around the width of my truck bed, but not the trailer with fenders, so need the extra width to fit around the fenders.
That saw has some serious I'm going to cut you in half attitude.
+Cheator40 Yea, no doubt, thanks Jerry
Holy shit
+philzambo Lol thanks Phil