I've repaired and built guitars since the 70's and have see a lot of bogus stuff on the internet. Your advice and tips have a lot of fact and integrity, which is why i subscribed to your channel a few weeks ago. Keep up the good work!
Whole world should understand one thing that is a guitar is priced on the longevity of its action anything else is bullshit could be a 1870 luthier too
All his mods are definitely good. Although sometimes it may not be necessary. Like changing the nut is not always needed. Cheap plastic nuts are not always bad and many great vintage guitars have them
My dad bought locking tuners (strat) for my squire affinity tele and it didn’t fit and since he is such a dad he pulled out his power drill and drilled holes in my headstock to make it fit. Now it stays in tune for like an eternity and it plays great 👍.
It always amazes me when people rave about locking tuners. Far more important is the nut. This is where most tuning issues occur when the nut binds the string from slipping back into place. The ONLY time locking tuners come into play is when doing extreme dive bombs to the point where the strings go slack. This is the ONLY time when the wraps can become loosened on the posts. Normal bends (upward) will not affect the wrap tension and therefore make locking tuners irrelevant. BTW, locking tuners without a TUSQ XL or serious helping of nut lube will still go out of tune!
@@axe2grind911a Locking tuners are pointless on a guitar that you're going to be doing extreme divebombs on because that guitar will have a locking nut. Nut tuning issues can also be improved with a little graphite from a pencil, tuners can't. Stability is only half the appeal for locking tuners, the other is significantly faster string changes.
Great video. You do a good job explaining your work. I've set up hundreds of guitars and have one comments on the nut installation. Folks, do NOT glue the nut in before you're sure it is perfect. In the video, Phil drops in a stock Fender nut that's a little too wide for the slot and sticks out. Make sure you've sanded the ends of the nut so it's perfectly flush before you install it. Sanding it later is really hard to do. Second, get the nut slots perfect before you glue it in. You need to do this with the strings at full tension, and sand the slots one by one. A Strat or Tele is fully playable without the nut being glued at all, so be sure it's right before you glue it. That's all. Otherwise, great tips.
Sanding an installed nut is easy. Glue the sand paper on a popsicle stick. Easy peasy! The main thing is getting it seated flush. Make sure that bond is clean.
As usual, a very informative video. first thing i did was swap the tuners too, then got carried away and fitted custom shop 69 pups and pots,, Hg saddles, and deglossed her ! couldn't stand the toyish plastic gloss poly stuff. Then i learnt about neck relief and action It's very comforting and rewarding to work on your instrument!
The sandpaper on the string is the BEST tip I've seen in ages! This solves a nut repair problem I have that I didn't want to but a nut file for one slot! Good tip Phillip! Awesome as always! Best tips overall in ages!
I would recommend using a string slightly larger than the string used for that slot, like the next one up. Also, they sell cheap sets on FeeBay for under 20 bucks that work well if you're only doing a few nuts.
bluesboynate If the grooves get too deep you need to file the face of the nut down to a proper height, The sand paper makes the cut quite a bit wider than the string. You can buy rolls of different string sizes with sand already attached. (Stew Mac) Which I think works better. Like dental floss.
Endo Alley You're right about the sand paper. I would err on too big, but I've never used this method. I got a set of small files on FeeBay for 18 bucks. BTW, they are round.
I really admire what you do. It's hard to find people who will properly walk through the steps necessary to do the guitar repairs yourself. You are also one of the first I've come across who is not a rude snob. When I take it to music stores (local and Guitar Center), they just want a quick buck out of me for stuff my guitar does not need. I remember taking my acoustic to my local music store to have the truss rod adjusted because it was bowing and I did not want to risk damaging the neck. He straightens it then suggests leaving it with him so he can charge me $60 to do more stuff to it. While suggesting this, he has his other employee set up the price tag on my guitar case and everything. It was ridiculous. I told him I was not interested and he ultimately let me go after I paid for guitar strings to cover what I initially brought it in for. Simple repairs shouldn't cost a fortune and I should not have to fight to decide what I want to do with my instrument. Keep doing what your doing!
"Or buy at least 2 nuts, so if you mess up the first one you know what you're doing with that second one..." Now if those aren't some good words to live by I don't know what is.
I thought that "buy 2 nuts" advice from Phil was directed at me. lol And with 2 nuts, you have twice as much meat. The "grab on to the nut......." instruction is a classic line. That may become Phil's signature "catch phrase".
Very good point! There seems to be more mystery with the guitar for a lot of people though... Many of us learned to work on cars growing up but likely were not working on guitars. Part of the reason so many of us love Phil is he De-mystifies it a little for us. I only mess with the car when I know what I'm doing otherwise I pay a guy to do it. Similar thing with guitars... Also time can be a factor for me. Sometimes a specialist (with the right tools) just does it better.
3:27 - If you have a gloss finish, you have to take an exacto knife and slowly score away the finish between the nut and the neck. If you don't, you risk chipping the finish.
💕I have worked on mines as well I wanna start polishing my frets and buy luthier tools to make my frets more smooth also wanna buy new tuners and a Vintage Bone Nut to replace thee other
Karl Beerman The Mexican Strat is the best quality out of all the “budget Strats”. They are put together very well in fit n finish. I still have mine from many many years ago.
I go for a dry fit on the nut first paying really close attention to the string height at the nut. Nuts come cut high from the factory and usually require some lowering of the slots but I sand the bottom of the nut on a flat surface to lower it if I'm fitting a new nut. .
Your videos are absolutely great!! So easy to follow, straight to the point, clear speaking voice. Really helped me out and actually had good angles from the camera so we could see every detail. Thanks
8:06 "fine end of my cuticle file is probably 12,000 (grit)". I checked my cuticle file by counting the grit specks on a square inch of it, and I only had 11, 458 grit specks. Should I return my cuticle file and complain that I was 'ripped off'?
yes...you were ripped off...... the cuticle file business is rough and tough. Lying to the consumer is the norm. You can complain if you want but it is probably best to leave it be. .
Once a guitar does what it's supposed to do, and the price is right, I don't fix something that isn't broken, and every guitar has its own feel, if I don't get along with one from day one, then I'll get a new one, many times I've gotten the same exact model etc.., and it plays great, always leave the guitar store completely satisfied
Manufacturers should consider adopting Fender tuners as a universal design! Having to drill on a guitar headstock is nerve wracking so I really love how Fender does their tuners! That string and sandpaper trick! Thank you!!
Gidday Phil. Thanks a ton for your video. Just bought a 2017 Fender Standard Stratocaster (MIM) and pretty much mimicked your suggestions. Started with an Arctic White, Maple neck Strat, added Fender Deluxe locking tuners, Vintage Reissue bone nut, Switchcraft 1/4" Output Jack, replaced neckplate for a Fender "F" logo plate and had the instrument professionally setup, which included action, intonation and tremolo bridge adjustment (left it floating for "appropriate" trem use). This guitar is a joy to play. Again, thank you for your excellent information and advice, Brad (Adelaide, South Australia)
I bought a MIM FSR Telecaster (2017). It came with the tuners he's taking off in this video. These tuners are almost identical to Schallers I have on an old Strat I have... they work just fine. No need to replace them IMHO. In fact the new FSR Tele I bought ($550 brand new) plays beautifully and sounds great. You want to make your MIM Fender play great, make sure the neck relief and string height are very close to spec. I have several guitars including a 70's Strat and 2 60's Gibsons, a 330 and a 335. The new Mexican Tele compares quite well to these guitars, I play it more than all of them, it's that good. No need to change anything if it's set up correctly. For those of you who think the USA guitar is better, I bought a new Tele w/ Custom shop PUs about 2 years ago. I took it back after having it for 2 days..
Yeah, locking tuners are not needed if the tuners themselves are good. My PRS SE245 (Korean-Made) has its' factory tuners and holds tune spectacularly well. The only shift in tuning I get is from changing temperature or the strings themselves stretching. Locking tuners are slightly more comfortable to restring, but really, that's not worth the 70 bucks unless you're changing strings once a week or more
Good info , thanks ! I got a MIM at a pawn shop a few years back . Put Spurzel locking tuners , Seymour Duncan Fury pickups , changed the springs on the tremolo . Now I'll do the nut and input jack .
My first electric guitar was a 2000 Chinese made squire. I did, and still do, love the neck. I was going to buy a new MIA strat, but then I had the brilliant idea of upgrading almost everything on the guitar. I got a new input jack and a completely new pickguard and wiring kit from Sigler Music with seymour duncans. Then I installed licking tuners, a new bridge assembly, and brushed steel saddles. My guitar now sounds and feels. better than my friend's MIM strat.
I slightly loosen the screws on the pickguard and back cover. It added some resonance; otherwise it seemed to 'choke' the overall unplugged tone. This video really helps. Many thanks, sir.
Set the neck of my MIM strat and lowered the pups - yes I could notice the increase in sustain and quality of the tone in general. Probably going to pass on the lockers but definitely get the bone nut! Thanks for the great, simple, economical, DIY, and relevant info!
I have a bit of a theory that's different from what many folks think. I've been playing for a long long time, like more than 55 years. Way back when I was poor I had to do a lot of stuff myself but now that I got a couple bucks I always try to support the hardworking dedicated luthiers so they can keep doing what they do. They are artists and very committed to their craft (at least the ones I know are) so I don't mind at all throwing a few bucks on them to take care of my stuff. That whole do it yourself trip is ok for youngsters but at my age it just cuts into the time I could be in my studio doing what I love most. Just my thoughts. Cheers all.
Except for the part about having done it yourself in the past. Doesn't apply to me. But I DO agree about paying people who I trust to do this for me. I would DESTROY that guitar in under 20minutes, guaranteed.
@@editorjuno This is exactly why I started learning to do my own work. I have NEVER let someone else touch my guitar and been pleased with the results or the turn time. Where I live there are only a few "techs" that take 3 weeks for a setup and they do a shit job. I have never received my guitar back from a tech and had a good intonation job. I have never received my guitar back from a tech and had any of their work look good either. The fact of the matter is nobody cares about my guitars more than me and as far as I have found nobody I pay knows any better than I would after a little bit of research for my specific ailment.
Sometimes I start a comment with " That's 15 minutes I won't get back". Not here, thanks Philip, excellent info and execution, I will watch this again and again. Cheers Mate
Back in the early 2000's, I bought a set of locking tuners that had a built in string cutter in each tuning machine. I think it was Planet Waves or something like that. The tuners worked well but it would always cut the strings too short. :(
Your videos are the most informative, concise and clear that I’ve seen. Please keep up the amazing work that you are doing for the community. I will even gladly sit through an ad to help support your efforts.
I like all of the home fixes you show to improve the guitar performance. Not having to pay a shop to do those easy things pay off immediately. More money stays in my pocket to buy more stuff. Thanks Phillip.
TimB4305 I was wondering if you could use one of the lower gauge strings to help file the nut, that way the added width of the sandpaper could be lessened. I don't really know what I'm talking about though, I have yet to upgrade my tele. Any thoughts?
Usually I create nut files from feeler gauges (the ones that are used to check ignition spark plugs and valve clearence in vehicles). I just cut some teeth in them with a dremel. It is useful in cases when you don't want to widen the slots just wnt to make them deeper.
Aristo Brizzolara He is not using sandpaper... he is using emery paper. They are completely different abrasive papers! But as everyone can see - it's not a very clever idea, because the abrasive immediately cracks and falls off the emery paper. Why he calls it 'sandpaper' is rather worrying...
When soldering a wire to a connector lug; there needs to be a good mechanical connection before adding solder. Bend it into a hook for a good mechanical connection before adding the solder ! This guitar will vibrate and those solder joints won't hold as they aren't mechanically connected to the Lug on the jack 🙂 also, I would use a couple pieces of shrink tube and slide it over the solder joints to get away from any possible. RF noise. Thanks for the Switch craft new plug as I need a replacement for a decades old Gibson.
That was a really great video Phil. I get concerned when people go right for the pickups without augmenting some of the softer spots on the imports. Not to say they are bad because they are really not but you have correctly highlighted some great upgrades to make the guitars sound better. Kudos.
Hey Philip, I don't know if you read the comments of old videos, but I wanted to say thank you. My dad (fellow guitar player) sent me this video a few weeks ago, and I had no experience with modding guitars (most I've ever done in the past was truss rod adjustment and string changes, lol). However, I decided to give this a shot, and ordered everything from this video (minus the new jack), and together my father and I worked on my 2008 MIM Strat. We just finished it today, and it is honestly better than when I got it. It sounds and plays so much better, and I honestly prefer it to my dad's Strat Plus from the 90's. Thank you for giving me the confidence to take initiative my self, and to customize my instrument to the way I want it to be, instead of sending it to a 'guy'.
This is great, thank you. I have a lacquer finish vintage 60s MIM that with these easy changes is now a very nice guitar indeed. Great explanation. Thanks.
Thanks, Phillip! Loving my MIM Strat and these are just the “first mods” tips that really get to playability regardless of the music you intend to play. First rate advice!
Some knob somewhere on RUclips will want to argue that the toothpick wood type that you choose will ultimately effect your tone. There will likely be a series of "toothpick tone wood" videos(being prepared as I type this). Then the opposition will make their own series to disprove this. Then a series of Tightbond glue v Gorrilla glue v interior v exterior v paintable/stainable v construction adhesives v mastic v comparing tone wood toothpicks v........ This will go on forever until we all perish from the earth.
I have a 2005 Chrome Blue MIA Strat to which I have already fitted a Floyd Rose locking tremolo, a bone nut and straplocks. However, I have just now purchased a set of Fender/Schaller locking tuners after watching this video. That will make tuning so much quicker with a new set of strings. no sudden drops of note as a coil of string slips into a gap between two other. Just fit it, lock it, crop it, tune it and start tugging on the strings/playing them in.
Schaller does not make the locking tuners for Fender anymore. I just ordered them (Original Fender Locking Tuners) and the package says they are made in Taiwan. Ping manufactures them since mid 2000's..
Hey Phil, I saw a guy hot rod his strat today with a complete pickguard, he put a 920D Custom Seymour Duncan Everything Axe Loaded Stratocaster Pickguard w/ 7-Way, Coil Splitting and Black Hardware, WH/BK on his strat. this is a very unique setup
telling people to replace the nut is not a good idea, you need good nut files and skills to do it well. Also the USA std and the Mex std have the exact same nut.
if hes using the actual string and thin paper it should be fine ... the pro files are wide to allow for string guages ... so use finest strings and thinnest emery .. should be less than you need allowing for play.... or am i wrong ?
Why am I seeing this 4 years after?? I have a squier with Jameson lollar pickups that sounds and plays fantastic.. but the instrument needs these upgrades exactly. Thanks a lot for this video!!
Nice job of explaining! And good camera work as well. I'm in total agreement that the first thing to do is get your guitar playing well, which also includes seeing up the action, then take some time to listen to the best pickups made and how they are wired enough to be able to really hear them and identify what you like the best. It may not be the more expensive ones pending on what style of music you are into... all of which is very subjective! Us old guys usually like vintage sounds.
I`m 31 and get a little nauseous when I hear an Ibanez,... Lol.. Felt the same when I was 18. (Been playing the same 68` Teisco Del Ray hollow body bass (which suits my Carol Kaye~ish playing style} ..with the strings it came with. ( And previously through a 1969 OLIVER powerflex 5OO} ever since. (Missed out on a drop dead beautiful\beat up 69` Cranberry Tele Bass... ((which I later learned a friend scooped up for a hundred bux. O.O.}} ~ haven't seen one since. I think Good ears hear Good sound, No matter how many times we orbit the Sun. Cheers!
Hey Phillip, thanks for the video. I have a dumb question, will the Fender locking tuners fit onto a modern MIM Telecaster the same way they fit onto the MIM Strat in this video?
Bought a made in Korea strat Squire II maple neck for $40 at pawn shop. and changed out selector switch, pots, vintage tuners and Fender Gold Lace pickups, so I have like $200 in the guitar. Plays like new one and feels so comfortable. Hidden gem!
Some of this tips..useful such as in the part of nut slotting. I never thought use 400 grit of sandpaper combine with electric guitar string will work as nut slotting...great tip, Philips. Thank you!
Simple mods if you take your time. A bone nut or brass nut makes a big difference. I just found a MIM Strat at a local flee market that was re-fretted with large frets and a brass nut so I just swapped necks. I made a MIM Strat with Texas specials, and a grease bucket circuit. A total blues thumper even without a Tube Screamer..!!
I watched this whole video and didn't know it was Phil until the end. He's a great player and probably the most knowledgeable guitar gear professional I've ever met.
Greetings Phillip! Thanks for sharing your tips for improving the Mexican made Stratocaster/Telecaster for your viewers. Many of the Indonesian, and Chinese made Fender instruments can also benefit from upgrades such as these. Thank you for posting these videos! Please have an excellent and awesome day! ☀️✨
Great video - I would have put the felt washer on the locking strap post before drilling it back - also better NOT to use a drill and to do it by hand as you may screw up the finish if you go too hard.
Great & Informative Instructional video. You get such a feeling of Satisfaction ( when you work on your guitars - yourself ), and you know the job was done correctly. The only thing I would Add is: - I recently Changed my String Trees and my Guitar stays in Tune - and made a significant difference, when using the wammy bar.
Why do so many people not understand that the jack on the guitar is an output jack? Is your guitar a speaker? Can you hook up an mp3 player to it or something?
They call them that because that's what they're called. It doesn't matter what they do or what they're on, they're an input jack because the 1/4" plug gets plugged IN to them. It has nothing to do with the signal.
@@BruceLyeg so Bruce . . . the two jacks on, say, a Tube Screamer . . . would you call BOTH of them "input jacks" because you stick plugs into both of them? No. One's an input, the other's an output because you're thinking about SIGNAL FLOW. And does the signal go into or come out of a guitar? Right. That's why it's called an output jack by anyone who knows what they're talking about. By the way, the word "jack" ALL BY ITSELF means you stick a plug into it. You're welcome.
@@jefflevy3557 go to an electronics supply shop and ask for a 1/4" input jack and a 1/4" output jack, see if they reach into two different boxes to get them. 🙄
@@jefflevy3557 An AMP might have to use different terms for the same thing, only because there are 2 of them and many can't figure out what to do with one, much less two. In cases where only one is present, input is acceptable, though TECHNICALLY it is an "output" as you state. Input is acceptable, though.
Soldering tip for people getting into it as well! Snag a high temp silicone baking sheet, it'll save your ass because one, it's heat resistant as all hell, two it's grounded. I love them, and you can usually find one super cheap.
I agree with everything but changing the tuners,nut, jack, and strap locks. 🙂😉🤗 I have a Mexican Strat that plays amazing and stays in tune out of the box.
Nolan Milnes Me too. in 2005, I had a Mexi Strat, then got a US Strat body in chrome blue, a US Strat Maple Neck with Plex setup, a US Strat bridge/trem, US Strat tuners, string trees and knobs, and US Strat electronics. Then I sold the Mexi Strat.
Phillip thanks for a video you are a master of guitars. That was fantastic substitution wrap sand paper around string for nut file. The ground is the sleeve and the tip hot... solder on all parts first. You taught me a lot in one educational perfect video. You are ...The man...May. God continue to bless you and thank you you were a great help to me today sir. By now
one thing I'll add when restringing with locking tuners is only replace one string at a time with a guitar with a tremolo because if you remove all the strings at once the bridge will tilt forward and you'll be winding more string on the tuners than neccessary. you could block the trem if you wanted to take all the strings. the thing to remember is that locking tuners do not require strings wrapping around at all.
Thanks man, this video was great. My goal is to one day find a cheap used SG and upgrade/restore it as a gift for my son. I have a lot of experience tinkering with electronics and computers, but have never worked on a guitar. Your instructions as well as your explanations of why you do things the way you do made a lot of sense to me. Im as worried now about how daunting a task this is 😁
I'm installing Fender locking tuners right now. I was confused about the tick marks, especially since there didn't seem to be any sort of order to them. A bit of googling showed they might be die markings - useful to the guys at the factory but of no purpose to the end user. Great video.
I replaced the nut (bone), output jack (switchcraft), pick ups (Seymor Duncan ssl5), tuners (fender locking), trem block (wilkinson) and strings (GHS) on mine and it sounds amazing.
It's gonna be a full-time job correcting every American tech that says "sahder" -because that's the correct pronunciation in the majority of the 'States. Good Luck!
Here's a very simple mod that does not require buying anything, removing anything, machining anything, or installing anything. At the 5-way selector switch, simply swap the hot leads for the middle and bridge pickups. This will now give you (from position 1 to 5): neck, neck + bridge, bridge, bridge + middle, middle. In other words, you forfeit one of the Strat "cluck" positions, but gain the N+B of a Tele that the Strat has never had. It takes a little getting used to the brightest position being the middle one, but you get used to it quickly. It's my understanding that the recent Albert Hammond Jr. model Strat has this capability, although I gather the switch is different, as are the position assignments.
Thank you so much for posting this! I've played (mainly messing around) for a loooong time. I have a 30 year old Fender Squire that doesn't sound great and could use some TLC. I like your tips, including replacing the bone nut, adding locking tuning nuts, and some minor sanding/cleanup, and i'll probably replace the pickups. The Seymour Duncan SH4 Humbuckers look to be good replacements for the cheap originals. Thanks again!!
No..... save that money and get more stuff instead. For the price of an American Pro you can get a MIM Strat, a Fender Bassbreaker amp , a TS9 Tube Screamer and a Dunlop Crybaby pedal.
Philtration more stuff doesn't replace having a superior guitar. Quality over quantity(bunch of stuff ). Fender Bluesbreaker? Marshall made the Bluesbreaker amp and pedal
I meant he Bassbreaker by Fender. If you want one guitar then fine. That is your choice. I know that the diminished return for your dollars spent on more expensive gear has a point where you start throwing away money because of quality and tone no longer keep up with the price increase. Is a $3,600 guitar really 6 times better than one that cost $600? No. Is it even 3 times better? No. If you are overpaying 4, 5 or even 6 times for your gear then that is just posing.
I have really bad "fret sprout" on a Hofner violin bass that shreds my hands every time I play it. I was going to take it to a repair shop until I cam across this video. I didn't even know there was a name for this problem. Thanks!
One thing I've done with these output jacks is on the threads of the barrel, I've always made it a point to put BLUE locktite on there so the jack doesn't come loose and spin around. It's important to use the blue as opposed to the red so you can still get it off later if need be.
I've repaired and built guitars since the 70's and have see a lot of bogus stuff on the internet. Your advice and tips have a lot of fact and integrity, which is why i subscribed to your channel a few weeks ago. Keep up the good work!
Thank you
Whole world should understand one thing that is a guitar is priced on the longevity of its action anything else is bullshit could be a 1870 luthier too
All his mods are definitely good. Although sometimes it may not be necessary. Like changing the nut is not always needed. Cheap plastic nuts are not always bad and many great vintage guitars have them
My dad bought locking tuners (strat) for my squire affinity tele and it didn’t fit and since he is such a dad he pulled out his power drill and drilled holes in my headstock to make it fit. Now it stays in tune for like an eternity and it plays great 👍.
Damn lol
@@Jordan-rb28 idk man you just built different I guess
It always amazes me when people rave about locking tuners. Far more important is the nut. This is where most tuning issues occur when the nut binds the string from slipping back into place. The ONLY time locking tuners come into play is when doing extreme dive bombs to the point where the strings go slack. This is the ONLY time when the wraps can become loosened on the posts. Normal bends (upward) will not affect the wrap tension and therefore make locking tuners irrelevant. BTW, locking tuners without a TUSQ XL or serious helping of nut lube will still go out of tune!
@@axe2grind911a Ive only heard a few people rave about locking tuners... most of them don’t even know what they look like...
@@axe2grind911a Locking tuners are pointless on a guitar that you're going to be doing extreme divebombs on because that guitar will have a locking nut. Nut tuning issues can also be improved with a little graphite from a pencil, tuners can't. Stability is only half the appeal for locking tuners, the other is significantly faster string changes.
Great video. You do a good job explaining your work. I've set up hundreds of guitars and have one comments on the nut installation. Folks, do NOT glue the nut in before you're sure it is perfect. In the video, Phil drops in a stock Fender nut that's a little too wide for the slot and sticks out. Make sure you've sanded the ends of the nut so it's perfectly flush before you install it. Sanding it later is really hard to do. Second, get the nut slots perfect before you glue it in. You need to do this with the strings at full tension, and sand the slots one by one. A Strat or Tele is fully playable without the nut being glued at all, so be sure it's right before you glue it. That's all. Otherwise, great tips.
Sanding an installed nut is easy. Glue the sand paper on a popsicle stick. Easy peasy! The main thing is getting it seated flush. Make sure that bond is clean.
As usual, a very informative video.
first thing i did was swap the tuners too, then got carried away and fitted custom shop 69 pups and pots,, Hg saddles, and deglossed her ! couldn't stand the toyish plastic gloss poly stuff. Then i learnt about neck relief and action It's very comforting and rewarding to work on your instrument!
The sandpaper on the string is the BEST tip I've seen in ages! This solves a nut repair problem I have that I didn't want to but a nut file for one slot! Good tip Phillip! Awesome as always! Best tips overall in ages!
I would perhaps consider using a slightly narrower string than the string you wind up using. You don't want too much slop.
You want the opposite actually if you don't want your strings to bind and go out of tune.
I would recommend using a string slightly larger than the string used for that slot, like the next one up. Also, they sell cheap sets on FeeBay for under 20 bucks that work well if you're only doing a few nuts.
bluesboynate If the grooves get too deep you need to file the face of the nut down to a proper height, The sand paper makes the cut quite a bit wider than the string. You can buy rolls of different string sizes with sand already attached. (Stew Mac) Which I think works better. Like dental floss.
Endo Alley You're right about the sand paper. I would err on too big, but I've never used this method. I got a set of small files on FeeBay for 18 bucks.
BTW, they are round.
I really admire what you do.
It's hard to find people who will properly walk through the steps necessary to do the guitar repairs yourself.
You are also one of the first I've come across who is not a rude snob.
When I take it to music stores (local and Guitar Center), they just want a quick buck out of me for stuff my guitar does not need.
I remember taking my acoustic to my local music store to have the truss rod adjusted because it was bowing and I did not want to risk damaging the neck. He straightens it then suggests leaving it with him so he can charge me $60 to do more stuff to it. While suggesting this, he has his other employee set up the price tag on my guitar case and everything. It was ridiculous. I told him I was not interested and he ultimately let me go after I paid for guitar strings to cover what I initially brought it in for.
Simple repairs shouldn't cost a fortune and I should not have to fight to decide what I want to do with my instrument.
Keep doing what your doing!
"grab on to the nut where you can get as much meat as possible"
- Phillip Mcknight
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
"Or buy at least 2 nuts, so if you mess up the first one you know what you're doing with that second one..." Now if those aren't some good words to live by I don't know what is.
Sudoku legend
I thought that "buy 2 nuts" advice from Phil was directed at me. lol
And with 2 nuts, you have twice as much meat.
The "grab on to the nut......." instruction is a classic line. That may become Phil's signature "catch phrase".
I just lubed my nuts today.
People will mess with a $30,000 dollar car but they are afraid to work on a $400.00 dollar guitar. I can't figure that out?
I feel like there’s more sentimental value when it comes to guitars
Very good point! There seems to be more mystery with the guitar for a lot of people though... Many of us learned to work on cars growing up but likely were not working on guitars. Part of the reason so many of us love Phil is he De-mystifies it a little for us.
I only mess with the car when I know what I'm doing otherwise I pay a guy to do it. Similar thing with guitars... Also time can be a factor for me. Sometimes a specialist (with the right tools) just does it better.
@@awesomepants8864 True. I sold my first car with no regret I would never consider selling the 1st guitar.
My guitars are worth more than my car..
Because most guys think they're a mechanic or have mechanical knowledge but know nothing about electronics or guitars and how they are put together.
3:27 - If you have a gloss finish, you have to take an exacto knife and slowly score away the finish between the nut and the neck. If you don't, you risk chipping the finish.
14:20 that's a lot of trust right there.
Would be a shame if someone just
*YEET*
My Mexican Strat sounds amazing and plays amazing. Best guitar ever.
💕I have worked on mines as well I wanna start polishing my frets and buy luthier tools to make my frets more smooth also wanna buy new tuners and a Vintage Bone Nut to replace thee other
Karl Beerman The Mexican Strat is the best quality out of all the “budget Strats”. They are put together very well in fit n finish.
I still have mine from many many years ago.
@@retrogaming4u865 So, you're a miner?
iAlien we all are really
Must be from the 90's
Tuning machines should be that easy to change on ALL guitars!
"I will flash the part right now" *nothing happens*
That’s what she said
Always enjoy your videos Phil. Real informative and your calm demeanor are entertaining
I go for a dry fit on the nut first paying really close attention to the string height at the nut. Nuts come cut high from the factory and usually require some lowering of the slots but I sand the bottom of the nut on a flat surface to lower it if I'm fitting a new nut. .
Your videos are absolutely great!! So easy to follow, straight to the point, clear speaking voice. Really helped me out and actually had good angles from the camera so we could see every detail. Thanks
8:06 "fine end of my cuticle file is probably 12,000 (grit)". I checked my cuticle file by counting the grit specks on a square inch of it, and I only had 11, 458 grit specks. Should I return my cuticle file and complain that I was 'ripped off'?
JJk, Just Joking dude. Great video thx.
yes...you were ripped off...... the cuticle file business is rough and tough. Lying to the consumer is the norm. You can complain if you want but it is probably best to leave it be. .
Those Chi-Comms are always cutting corners. It's probably not even real grit!
Once a guitar does what it's supposed to do, and the price is right, I don't fix something that isn't broken, and every guitar has its own feel, if I don't get along with one from day one, then I'll get a new one, many times I've gotten the same exact model etc.., and it plays great, always leave the guitar store completely satisfied
Manufacturers should consider adopting Fender tuners as a universal design!
Having to drill on a guitar headstock is nerve wracking so I really love how Fender does their tuners!
That string and sandpaper trick! Thank you!!
I don't even have a strat...why am a watching this ?
Exactly what I'm doing
Same
Jimi Hendrix doesn't have a strat?!
Seems like doesn't exists strats in post-life...
Because strats are Jesus. No offense +Jimi Hendrix
Gidday Phil. Thanks a ton for your video. Just bought a 2017 Fender Standard Stratocaster (MIM) and pretty much mimicked your suggestions. Started with an Arctic White, Maple neck Strat, added Fender Deluxe locking tuners, Vintage Reissue bone nut, Switchcraft 1/4" Output Jack, replaced neckplate for a Fender "F" logo plate and had the instrument professionally setup, which included action, intonation and tremolo bridge adjustment (left it floating for "appropriate" trem use). This guitar is a joy to play. Again, thank you for your excellent information and advice, Brad (Adelaide, South Australia)
Your video quality and editing has improved massively. Great info as always, but way more enjoyable to watch!
I have been learning as fast as I can. Thank you
I bought a MIM FSR Telecaster (2017). It came with the tuners he's taking off in this video. These tuners are almost identical to Schallers I have on an old Strat I have... they work just fine. No need to replace them IMHO. In fact the new FSR Tele I bought ($550 brand new) plays beautifully and sounds great. You want to make your MIM Fender play great, make sure the neck relief and string height are very close to spec. I have several guitars including a 70's Strat and 2 60's Gibsons, a 330 and a 335. The new Mexican Tele compares quite well to these guitars, I play it more than all of them, it's that good. No need to change anything if it's set up correctly. For those of you who think the USA guitar is better, I bought a new Tele w/ Custom shop PUs about 2 years ago. I took it back after having it for 2 days..
Yeah, locking tuners are not needed if the tuners themselves are good. My PRS SE245 (Korean-Made) has its' factory tuners and holds tune spectacularly well. The only shift in tuning I get is from changing temperature or the strings themselves stretching. Locking tuners are slightly more comfortable to restring, but really, that's not worth the 70 bucks unless you're changing strings once a week or more
Thats fantastic. Thanks for the advice. Would like to know your thoughts on changing the Bridge too?
Good info , thanks ! I got a MIM at a pawn shop a few years back . Put Spurzel locking tuners , Seymour Duncan Fury pickups , changed the springs on the tremolo . Now I'll do the nut and input jack .
My first electric guitar was a 2000 Chinese made squire. I did, and still do, love the neck. I was going to buy a new MIA strat, but then I had the brilliant idea of upgrading almost everything on the guitar. I got a new input jack and a completely new pickguard and wiring kit from Sigler Music with seymour duncans. Then I installed licking tuners, a new bridge assembly, and brushed steel saddles. My guitar now sounds and feels. better than my friend's MIM strat.
Hazen Stribling ...how about a bit more information on those
"licking" tuners??
They sound really useful...
Tuners that lick, what will they think of next? Be sure to upgrade to the hot-lickers when available. I'm still looking for THOSE.
yes....Licking tuners are a great upgrade to a guitar that already sucks....just don't tell your girlfriend
Please, please, PLEASE... Make sure to get licking tuners, and not lacking tuners!
MIA is Made In Africa right?
I slightly loosen the screws on the pickguard and back cover. It added some resonance; otherwise it seemed to 'choke' the overall unplugged tone. This video really helps. Many thanks, sir.
Mr. McKnight, you are _The Man_, sir.
Set the neck of my MIM strat and lowered the pups - yes I could notice the increase in sustain and quality of the tone in general. Probably going to pass on the lockers but definitely get the bone nut! Thanks for the great, simple, economical, DIY, and relevant info!
I have a bit of a theory that's different from what many folks think. I've been playing for a long long time, like more than 55 years. Way back when I was poor I had to do a lot of stuff myself but now that I got a couple bucks I always try to support the hardworking dedicated luthiers so they can keep doing what they do. They are artists and very committed to their craft (at least the ones I know are) so I don't mind at all throwing a few bucks on them to take care of my stuff. That whole do it yourself trip is ok for youngsters but at my age it just cuts into the time I could be in my studio doing what I love most. Just my thoughts. Cheers all.
k
Okay.
Agree 100%
Except for the part about having done it yourself in the past. Doesn't apply to me. But I DO agree about paying people who I trust to do this for me. I would DESTROY that guitar in under 20minutes, guaranteed.
@@editorjuno This is exactly why I started learning to do my own work. I have NEVER let someone else touch my guitar and been pleased with the results or the turn time. Where I live there are only a few "techs" that take 3 weeks for a setup and they do a shit job. I have never received my guitar back from a tech and had a good intonation job. I have never received my guitar back from a tech and had any of their work look good either. The fact of the matter is nobody cares about my guitars more than me and as far as I have found nobody I pay knows any better than I would after a little bit of research for my specific ailment.
Sometimes I start a comment with " That's 15 minutes I won't get back". Not here, thanks Philip, excellent info and execution, I will watch this again and again. Cheers Mate
Back in the early 2000's, I bought a set of locking tuners that had a built in string cutter in each tuning machine. I think it was Planet Waves or something like that. The tuners worked well but it would always cut the strings too short. :(
Your videos are the most informative, concise and clear that I’ve seen. Please keep up the amazing work that you are doing for the community. I will even gladly sit through an ad to help support your efforts.
You are the best Phillip, can't thank you enough for your generosity sharing these videos
I have learned so much from Philip, and he comes across so genuine and real.
I like all of the home fixes you show to improve the guitar performance. Not having to pay a shop to do those easy things pay off immediately. More money stays in my pocket to buy more stuff. Thanks Phillip.
Oh wow that MacGuyver nut file. So simple yet so awesome. Thank you so much Phil.
TimB4305 ...and he didn't even need to use his penny, or gum wrapper...amazing...
TimB4305 I was wondering if you could use one of the lower gauge strings to help file the nut, that way the added width of the sandpaper could be lessened. I don't really know what I'm talking about though, I have yet to upgrade my tele. Any thoughts?
Usually I create nut files from feeler gauges (the ones that are used to check ignition spark plugs and valve clearence in vehicles). I just cut some teeth in them with a dremel. It is useful in cases when you don't want to widen the slots just wnt to make them deeper.
Aristo Brizzolara He is not using sandpaper... he is using emery paper. They are completely different abrasive papers! But as everyone can see - it's not a very clever idea, because the abrasive immediately cracks and falls off the emery paper. Why he calls it 'sandpaper' is rather worrying...
When soldering a wire to a connector lug; there needs to be a good mechanical connection before adding solder. Bend it into a hook for a good mechanical connection before adding the solder ! This guitar will vibrate and those solder joints won't hold as they aren't mechanically connected to the Lug on the jack 🙂 also, I would use a couple pieces of shrink tube and slide it over the solder joints to get away from any possible. RF noise. Thanks for the Switch craft new plug as I need a replacement for a decades old Gibson.
That was a really great video Phil. I get concerned when people go right for the pickups without augmenting some of the softer spots on the imports. Not to say they are bad because they are really not but you have correctly highlighted some great upgrades to make the guitars sound better. Kudos.
Hey Philip,
I don't know if you read the comments of old videos, but I wanted to say thank you. My dad (fellow guitar player) sent me this video a few weeks ago, and I had no experience with modding guitars (most I've ever done in the past was truss rod adjustment and string changes, lol). However, I decided to give this a shot, and ordered everything from this video (minus the new jack), and together my father and I worked on my 2008 MIM Strat. We just finished it today, and it is honestly better than when I got it. It sounds and plays so much better, and I honestly prefer it to my dad's Strat Plus from the 90's.
Thank you for giving me the confidence to take initiative my self, and to customize my instrument to the way I want it to be, instead of sending it to a 'guy'.
This is great, thank you. I have a lacquer finish vintage 60s MIM that with these easy changes is now a very nice guitar indeed. Great explanation. Thanks.
Thanks, Phillip! Loving my MIM Strat and these are just the “first mods” tips that really get to playability regardless of the music you intend to play. First rate advice!
Some knob somewhere on RUclips will want to argue that the toothpick wood type that you choose will ultimately effect your tone. There will likely be a series of "toothpick tone wood" videos(being prepared as I type this). Then the opposition will make their own series to disprove this. Then a series of Tightbond glue v Gorrilla glue v interior v exterior v paintable/stainable v construction adhesives v mastic v comparing tone wood toothpicks v........ This will go on forever until we all perish from the earth.
and dont forget how the make of masking tape you use will also make a huge difference to how the frets react to the filing process....
I have a 2005 Chrome Blue MIA Strat to which I have already fitted a Floyd Rose locking tremolo, a bone nut and straplocks. However, I have just now purchased a set of Fender/Schaller locking tuners after watching this video. That will make tuning so much quicker with a new set of strings. no sudden drops of note as a coil of string slips into a gap between two other. Just fit it, lock it, crop it, tune it and start tugging on the strings/playing them in.
Schaller does not make the locking tuners for Fender anymore. I just ordered them (Original Fender Locking Tuners) and the package says they are made in Taiwan. Ping manufactures them since mid 2000's..
Jesus dude, how do you not have more subs. This is amazing stuff
Hey Phil, I saw a guy hot rod his strat today with a complete pickguard, he put a 920D Custom Seymour Duncan Everything Axe Loaded Stratocaster Pickguard w/ 7-Way, Coil Splitting and Black Hardware, WH/BK on his strat. this is a very unique setup
Awesome video, great tips. Throw a high mass trem block in there and you're good to go.
telling people to replace the nut is not a good idea, you need good nut files and skills to do it well. Also the USA std and the Mex std have the exact same nut.
if hes using the actual string and thin paper it should be fine ... the pro files are wide to allow for string guages ... so use finest strings and thinnest emery .. should be less than you need allowing for play.... or am i wrong ?
You are a genius for coming up with using the strings with sand paper.
10:08 Did anyone else notice that he says which is hot and which is ground, and then immediately says it backwards?
he's checking to see if you paid attention. you passed the test.
@@Luckyrider1958 I want my prize 🎸😏
He’s going a mile a minute. He sounds out of breath too 😂
Thank you Phillip for this great and explanative video. For the first time I feel like someone explained setup in a way I could understand.
IS THAT THE VOICE OF STEVE CARELL??!! 😂 great video btw
Why am I seeing this 4 years after??
I have a squier with Jameson lollar pickups that sounds and plays fantastic.. but the instrument needs these upgrades exactly.
Thanks a lot for this video!!
Glad I didn't spend a trillion dollars on nut files. Sandpaper around a string, brilliant. Thanks Phil.
same
subbed!
Unfortunately makes the groove too wide
james crowe see the discussion below with about 60+ replies. Re using nut files for correct width
james crowe nut files. About 18. Inherited from a luthier so no idea of maker.
james crowe you misunderstand. The remark was putting abrasives around the strings will make the slot wider than the string
No frills and right to the point. Perfect. Thanks
Nice job of explaining! And good camera work as well. I'm in total agreement that the first thing to do is get your guitar playing well, which also includes seeing up the action, then take some time to listen to the best pickups made and how they are wired enough to be able to really hear them and identify what you like the best. It may not be the more expensive ones pending on what style of music you are into... all of which is very subjective! Us old guys usually like vintage sounds.
I`m 31 and get a little nauseous when I hear an Ibanez,... Lol.. Felt the same when I was 18. (Been playing the same 68` Teisco Del Ray hollow body bass (which suits my Carol Kaye~ish playing style} ..with the strings it came with. ( And previously through a 1969 OLIVER powerflex 5OO} ever since. (Missed out on a drop dead beautiful\beat up 69` Cranberry Tele Bass... ((which I later learned a friend scooped up for a hundred bux. O.O.}} ~ haven't seen one since. I think Good ears hear Good sound, No matter how many times we orbit the Sun. Cheers!
Glad you mentioned cold solder, and the pre tinting. I like a mechanical connection, though with soldering wires.
Hey Phillip, thanks for the video. I have a dumb question, will the Fender locking tuners fit onto a modern MIM Telecaster the same way they fit onto the MIM Strat in this video?
That is a great question and the answer is yes.
themetalsonic94 g
Thank you Phillip and you do a fantastic job. One error to report... go to 10:10... backwards.
Will you sand the overhang on the new nut? Seems wide.
Robert Clark yes
Bought a made in Korea strat Squire II maple neck for $40 at pawn shop. and changed out selector switch, pots, vintage tuners and Fender Gold Lace pickups, so I have like $200 in the guitar. Plays like new one and feels so comfortable. Hidden gem!
I clicked the thumbnail then heard a whisper saying "Go practice" 😂
Vids like this are one of the reasons i subscribe. F'ing awesome, keeping explanations simple, but VERY clear about the finer details. Great video.
Another great video. I wonder how many people bother to adjust the pickups on their strat before getting need better ones?
TooLooze ...good point, they may be too low, or too high, to give the best sound possible...
Some of this tips..useful such as in the part of nut slotting. I never thought use 400 grit of sandpaper combine with electric guitar string will work as nut slotting...great tip, Philips. Thank you!
Would love the second installment to this series, i'm upgrading my squier and I just need some good pickups and I'll be finished!
Working on it right now. Its called mods to squire that anyone can do and undo.
Phillip McKnight Love it!
Phillip McKnight can’t find the video would loveeee a telecaster version that would be amazing!!
He’s all action and complimented talk, he is just awesome. Thanks for your videos. Starting to work on my own guitars.
Thanks man, the guy at guitar center just tried to charge me like $50 to replace the nut parts and labor.
Dylan Taylor Yea me too, really getting tired of paying to much
Why would you ever let GC repair your guitar?
Simple mods if you take your time. A bone nut or brass nut makes a big difference. I just found a MIM Strat at a local flee market that was re-fretted with large frets and a brass nut so I just swapped necks. I made a MIM Strat with Texas specials, and a grease bucket circuit. A total blues thumper even without a Tube Screamer..!!
I also would like a video on proper intonation. Would be much appreciated.
I watched this whole video and didn't know it was Phil until the end. He's a great player and probably the most knowledgeable guitar gear professional I've ever met.
This is super informative!! Thank you for sharing!!
Greetings Phillip!
Thanks for sharing your tips for improving the Mexican made Stratocaster/Telecaster for your viewers. Many of the Indonesian, and Chinese made Fender instruments can also benefit from upgrades such as these.
Thank you for posting these videos!
Please have an excellent and awesome day! ☀️✨
Great video - I would have put the felt washer on the locking strap post before drilling it back - also better NOT to use a drill and to do it by hand as you may screw up the finish if you go too hard.
Great & Informative Instructional video. You get such a feeling of Satisfaction ( when you work on your guitars - yourself ), and you know the job was done correctly. The only thing I would Add is: - I recently Changed my String Trees and my Guitar stays in Tune - and made a significant difference, when using the wammy bar.
Why do so many people not understand that the jack on the guitar is an output jack? Is your guitar a speaker? Can you hook up an mp3 player to it or something?
I was thinking the exact same thing. Every time he called it an input jack i winced a little.
They call them that because that's what they're called. It doesn't matter what they do or what they're on, they're an input jack because the 1/4" plug gets plugged IN to them. It has nothing to do with the signal.
@@BruceLyeg so Bruce . . . the two jacks on, say, a Tube Screamer . . . would you call BOTH of them "input jacks" because you stick plugs into both of them? No. One's an input, the other's an output because you're thinking about SIGNAL FLOW. And does the signal go into or come out of a guitar? Right. That's why it's called an output jack by anyone who knows what they're talking about. By the way, the word "jack" ALL BY ITSELF means you stick a plug into it. You're welcome.
@@jefflevy3557 go to an electronics supply shop and ask for a 1/4" input jack and a 1/4" output jack, see if they reach into two different boxes to get them. 🙄
@@jefflevy3557 An AMP might have to use different terms for the same thing, only because there are 2 of them and many can't figure out what to do with one, much less two. In cases where only one is present, input is acceptable, though TECHNICALLY it is an "output" as you state. Input is acceptable, though.
Soldering tip for people getting into it as well! Snag a high temp silicone baking sheet, it'll save your ass because one, it's heat resistant as all hell, two it's grounded. I love them, and you can usually find one super cheap.
I thought I was the only one that did the toothpick trick!
He edited the video. So the actual toothpick is ACTUALLY in there filling the hole?? Or he uses it just to put glue?
THanks :)
Leaves the toothpick in there with glue on it to take up space so the screw for the new straplock bites better.
Thankyou :)
in Asia, we use chopsticks to fix all kinds of wood stuff.
I agree with everything but changing the tuners,nut, jack, and strap locks. 🙂😉🤗 I have a Mexican Strat that plays amazing and stays in tune out of the box.
I start off by getting a new neck and a new body, then all new hardware. Bam.
Nolan Milnes A new neck? Why?
i think he's just saying don't get a mexi strat
Nolan Milnes 🤣😂😂
Nolan Milnes Me too. in 2005, I had a Mexi Strat, then got a US Strat body in chrome blue, a US Strat Maple Neck with Plex setup, a US Strat bridge/trem, US Strat tuners, string trees and knobs, and US Strat electronics.
Then I sold the Mexi Strat.
dude i have the mexi tele baja and the neck is awesome better than most of usa neck
Phillip thanks for a video you are a master of guitars. That was fantastic substitution wrap sand paper around string for nut file. The ground is the sleeve and the tip hot... solder on all parts first. You taught me a lot in one educational perfect video. You are ...The man...May. God continue to bless you and thank you you were a great help to me today sir. By now
Can you do a full fretless conversion?
one thing I'll add when restringing with locking tuners is only replace one string at a time with a guitar with a tremolo because if you remove all the strings at once the bridge will tilt forward and you'll be winding more string on the tuners than neccessary. you could block the trem if you wanted to take all the strings. the thing to remember is that locking tuners do not require strings wrapping around at all.
No need for that much glue for the new nut.
okay dad
AvE!
Thanks man, this video was great. My goal is to one day find a cheap used SG and upgrade/restore it as a gift for my son.
I have a lot of experience tinkering with electronics and computers, but have never worked on a guitar. Your instructions as well as your explanations of why you do things the way you do made a lot of sense to me. Im as worried now about how daunting a task this is 😁
14:20
"Hit the table"
I'm installing Fender locking tuners right now. I was confused about the tick marks, especially since there didn't seem to be any sort of order to them. A bit of googling showed they might be die markings - useful to the guys at the factory but of no purpose to the end user.
Great video.
will you do one for The epiphone/gibson Les paul
This is easily the best guitar channel on RUclips!
after watching this
I bought fender american stratocaster😀😀😀😀
yippiiiiii!!!!!!!!!
Good job on video,to the point,no bullshit ,and camera got it all perfect.I wish all how to videos were like it.
This is a decent video with some good info, except: it's an output jack.
I replaced the nut (bone), output jack (switchcraft), pick ups (Seymor Duncan ssl5), tuners (fender locking), trem block (wilkinson) and strings (GHS) on mine and it sounds amazing.
Sarder? Might be called solder.
It's gonna be a full-time job correcting every American tech that says "sahder" -because that's the correct pronunciation in the majority of the 'States. Good Luck!
Here's a very simple mod that does not require buying anything, removing anything, machining anything, or installing anything. At the 5-way selector switch, simply swap the hot leads for the middle and bridge pickups. This will now give you (from position 1 to 5): neck, neck + bridge, bridge, bridge + middle, middle. In other words, you forfeit one of the Strat "cluck" positions, but gain the N+B of a Tele that the Strat has never had. It takes a little getting used to the brightest position being the middle one, but you get used to it quickly. It's my understanding that the recent Albert Hammond Jr. model Strat has this capability, although I gather the switch is different, as are the position assignments.
I bought a squire strat for $4.00 and restored it.
$4? Thats cheapest guitar ever
Furious Donut plays like 4 dollars too
Thank you so much for posting this! I've played (mainly messing around) for a loooong time. I have a 30 year old Fender Squire that doesn't sound great and could use some TLC. I like your tips, including replacing the bone nut, adding locking tuning nuts, and some minor sanding/cleanup, and i'll probably replace the pickups. The Seymour Duncan SH4 Humbuckers look to be good replacements for the cheap originals.
Thanks again!!
Sorry for incorrect spelling of Phillip - Regards, Michael
Years later and still helpin out noobs! Thanks Phil
The best mod is to buy an American Standard
Nothing wrong with that advise. thank you for posting
Jesus VG . Fender no longer makes the American Standard. 😟
No..... save that money and get more stuff instead.
For the price of an American Pro you can get a MIM Strat, a Fender Bassbreaker amp , a TS9 Tube Screamer and a Dunlop Crybaby pedal.
Philtration more stuff doesn't replace having a superior guitar. Quality over quantity(bunch of stuff ). Fender Bluesbreaker? Marshall made the Bluesbreaker amp and pedal
I meant he Bassbreaker by Fender.
If you want one guitar then fine. That is your choice.
I know that the diminished return for your dollars spent on more expensive gear has a point where you start throwing away money because of quality and tone no longer keep up with the price increase.
Is a $3,600 guitar really 6 times better than one that cost $600?
No.
Is it even 3 times better?
No.
If you are overpaying 4, 5 or even 6 times for your gear then that is just posing.
I have really bad "fret sprout" on a Hofner violin bass that shreds my hands every time I play it. I was going to take it to a repair shop until I cam across this video. I didn't even know there was a name for this problem. Thanks!
"Upgrading a mexican strat" I play a bullet strat which is even worse than a mexican XD
I had an "eagle" strat of leas than 90
dollars
One thing I've done with these output jacks is on the threads of the barrel, I've always made it a point to put BLUE locktite on there so the jack doesn't come loose and spin around. It's important to use the blue as opposed to the red so you can still get it off later if need be.