I recommend you get into it 👍. There is a harsh learning curve but it is a pretty fun hobby. Do your research and make sure that you get the right 3D printer for you before buying one though.
Prusa 3D just announced their new i3 MK4; the Prusa i3 is kind of the benchmark for reliable and easy to use consumer printers, and this new MK4 has been dramatically improved again. It's not a dirt cheap choice though, in the $900 ballpark as a kit. But, you'd get an extremely reliable and surprisingly speedy printer due to the new improvements they've done to it, it could probably print this cover at half the time or maybe even less. Although - the i3 MK3s is now for sale at under $600 which is still a perfectly great printer. It's not as great as the $900 MK4 but my i3 works great and has since I got it.
Love the work. Would recommend threaded inserts for those things that need taking apart again, and securing the top cover from the bottom to hide screws. Or make it just clip in.
Thanks Marcos! I have personally had bad experienced with threaded inserts in many cases. They seem to come loose if they aren’t 100% perfectly installed. As long as the plastic threads are not stripped they actually hold suprisingly well during assembly/disassembly multiple times.
CNC Kitchen did a good video about threaded inserts. Their test results show screwing directly into plastic is about as strong as good quality threaded inserts. I don't think they went into much detail on how repeatably it can be redone, but from my own experience, threaded inserts aren't really needed if you're careful with assembly/disassembly. Maybe only necessary if you are unscrewing it regularly.
@@cakilas8966 I suppose it also depends on what screws and what plastic. Like you say it depends on frequency as well - and I’m always having to open my PC for one thing or another!
@@cakilas8966 Exactly. I feel the grip of the threads are so much more secure than the inserts melted in place. When pushing in the inserts they often tend to leave air gaps not sealing 100%, also if they’re not inserted about perfectly straight they will loosen whenever the screw is tightened.
That's an awesome build! With those Temps, probably a good idea to print in a higher temp material like PETG or ASA. Also, you could add threaded inserts to help with the reusability of the screw holes
Thank you! Most parts were printed in PETG. I only printed the cover in PLA due to my PLA had a slightly more matte finish than my PETG spool to be honest. Otherwise I’d go PETG all the way. Though I have personally not experienced any issues with PLA in any of my case builds, I still prefer PETG due to it’s higher durability and stronger layer bonding. About using threaded inserts, they look really clean and long term are probably a better solution if disassembling many times, but they have to be placed perfectly center and straight to hold well. If slightly out of line they risk breaking loose when tightening the parts together.
Thanks Tommy! Sometimes I feel (my own opinion) that my voice is very little enthusiastic when trying to explain what to do 🤣 I’ll try not to disappoint you in the future 😊
I'm definitely a 'shiny tech' freak, been so since I was very young and my father had a beautiful looking HiFi set. But sometimes, when tech comes with that 'furniture' look, it has a special appeal. Great build.
Looks cool but with those "vents" it would look cool with an RGB glow from inside. (yeah I know rgb 🤮) Next up is a *Hellraiser* "Lament Configuration" itx puzzle box print lol (at least that's what this build made me think of).
To improve the surface finish, try turning off combing and consider enabling ironing. Also if they aren't there already, consider modelling the threads inside the holes. You'd be surprised how well modern FDM printers can handle these details!
I can imagine that M3 threads would be hard to create, especially with a 0.6 nozzle, but definitely possible for larger threads. I have yet to teach myself how to make threads first… won’t ironing only affect the top layer? I’ll look into the combing settings 😊
@@makerunit Nozzle size shouldn't make TOO much of a difference to printing threads and other fine details, it more relies on how accurate your printer is. That's not to say it makes no difference, obviously the smaller the nozzle the less of a 'squish' in the layer at a given height. Layer height makes a bigger difference than nozzle diameter. Threads are pretty easy in Fusion360 and there are plenty of tutorials, give it a try :) Ironing affects any surface layer depending on what settings you have configured. It works the best on large flat surfaces and your case has plenty of those.
@@makerunit If you're using Fusion360 there is a very easy thread feature where you just select a cylinder and set the type of thread you want and it does the rest. As for printing threads, I've done some experiments on my Prusa Mini and was able to print working M4 nuts and bolts, M3 might work with some tuning but I think you're better off just threading into the plastic at that size. Atleast that's what I do.
Naah. Threaded brass inserts designed to be heated and pushed into the plastic, with a soldering iron for instance. Form a very strong connection and you get a proper brass metal thread to screw into, and you can obviously un-screw or reattach as many times as necessary. Since, you know, brass.
Thank you! Honestly, not really, I see a lot of people worried about this. All the internals here are printed in PETG, the cover was printed in PLA mainly due to my PLA having a slightly more matte color than my PETG and warping seems like a smaller issue with PLA. I have personally not experienced any issues related to PLA but I see some people say they have experienced a lot of it on other builds but as long as there is airflow it should be good tbh 😊
PETG should be fine and it's quite easy to print, I basically only use that. That handles 30+ degrees more than PLA. But yeah, if this is printed in PLA I would expect it to deform. Doesn't take 60+ degrees either imo, just warming it to 40-50 will probably cause issues down the line.
This was mainly printed in PETG. All the parts internally are PETG, only part that is PLA is the external cover due to its slightly more matte finish. It’s an intake in the front anyways and no exhausts on the cover, only in the rear where it’s PETG, so I’m not worried at all. I’ve made multiple 100% PLA cases too and I have not experienced a single issue with PLA here either (yet at least).
This case would be so useful if it were modeled for a plex server instead of a normal sffpc. Is it possible to remove the GPU holes and replace the 2 2.5 drives with 2 3.5 drives and give space for 2 more 3.5 drives where the GPU sits? That would be a killer plex setup.
Definitely, it can be edited using the supplied sketchup files. There should be enough room for probably 4 or 5 drives stacked on top of eachothers with a little spacing if removing the gpu and using a pico psu perhaps.
I absolutely love this build so far. I went with a Gigabyte B650I and Ryzen 9 7900 with a PNY 3060 12GB card for my build. I also opted for the Thermalright 15mm fans and CPU Cooler. Currently, my only issue is I have attempted to print the cover for it 4 times, and every print fails for me; Octoprint just stops printing about 60-80% of the way through the large print. Is there any chance of getting a flat version of the case cover in multiple pieces that could be assembled?
Hi there! I’m happy to hear you love the design! And I’m sorry to hear the external panel isn’t printing properly. Unfortunately this case was designed using Sketchup which I’m no longer using, and therefore I can not make any further changes to the design… :/ No idea why the print is failing so far through as many people have printed the case successfully. Have you tried rotating the print 90 degrees on the Z, sometimes small printing bugs can solve themselves just by rotating the piece on the build plate 😅
Amazing work! Would you mind if I printed/featured one of your designs on my channel? If not, no worries and if you want to discuss this further feel free to shoot me an email or DM on twitter.
Thank you Matt! I’m happy to hear that you like my work! I’ll DM you! 😊 Edit: My Twitter is bugged so I’m unable to DM you for some reason… Anyways, you can go right ahead and feature any of my designs in a video! I’d appreciate a channel mention and credits though 👌😊 apart from that you’re free to do what you want with my designs Matt.
@@makerunit Quick update! I printed your original 9.7L design and it turned out amazingly. The video should be out in a day or two and I'm making sure to credit you throughout the video and add of your links in the description.
man if plastic didnt look like ... plastic, these designs would blow me completely away. Sadly, the "printer" look to me is just ugly with most filaments and kind of ugly with some, and resin printing isnt quite strong enough for these types of builds despite looking "Okay" (tough resin works.. but I wouldnt trust expensive projects with it.) - Cant wait until PBF becomes more consumer friendly, metal can be worked to look so much better than plastic - and typically looks more "professional" right from the wash cycle anyways. I love this design though, simple yet stylistic. Something about cubes just work for me, but then again having used blender for nearly a decade its almost symbolic to me at this point so maybe that's where I get it from haha.
I totally get what you mean! A full metal version would be freaking awesome! Perhaps a CNC’ed from flat pieces and welded together would work. I could have gotten a more detalied finish with lets say a 0.1mm layer height but the print would then take 5-6 days to complete. Would mean less visible lines and with some filler primer and a few coats of matte black paint it could be a pretty cool print, but plastic will definitely never beat real metal for sure!
@@makerunit CNC machining would definitely work but that defeats the point i think haha, 3D printers are definitely more consumer friendly! You could for sure improve the overall build quality with smaller layers, but I think my personal problem is just with the aesthetic of plastic - but as you said you could probably cover it up to make it look more authentic! I'm probably just too stoked about the idea of metal printers, as they have shown to even produce stronger structures than casting can produce. which is an impressive feat, while looking incredibly professional! Imagining the projects people will post in 10 years is absolutely beyond me. Can't wait! Anyways, thanks for the response and have a wonderful easter!
@@Skyflairl2p as soon as metal 3D printing reaches a «consumer» level I’m definitely getting one! I totally understand the worries of using an all plastic case, it’s got its ups and down definitely. Happy Easter to you too!
Thank you! You could always attach the motherboard onto the plate first, then the rear exhaust plate and do it that way if you’re worried about the GPU wobbling 😊
this case looks damn amazing! i just passed my exams as an cnc operator and am looking for a way to design my own cube case with all sides same length which i want to mill then, aand this video was a very good inspiration!
Congrats on passing your exam! And I’m happy to hear I inspired you! I would definitely love to see that result if you make one. Sounds awesome I wish I had access to those kinds of tools. Maybe one day 😇
Pretty sweet man, about 30 USD if you use the most cost effective PLAs or up to 70 USD if you go with more exotic but reasonable PLAs and of course it could go way up with some other type of filaments. With my preference of PLA it would run me approximately 40 USD, seriously awesome. Coincidentally it ran me approximately 15 USD to make a case out of some high quality plywood and would have ran me approximately 80 USD to make the same case out of solid dark walnut or mahogany. Of course 3D printing has a much lower point of entry and the time spend making the case per hour is laughable compared to a skilled Carpenter.
This would definitely look sick in dark walnut! Even though PLA should do fine here I would recommend going PETG if possible due to it’s higher temperature tolerance, and overall strength is a bit better in my opinion.
@@makerunit Agreed on the first account I love dark walnut and PETG probably would be a much better choice since it has a higher temperature tolerance and doesn't have as much material creep. But the odds are high that a people with a 3D printer won't have PETG but will have PLA of any type on hand besides not all PLAs are equal either, especially silk PLA. Although the components themselves obviously can get to 90c enough to soften both types, i doubt any part of the case it self actually gets all that warm. IDK that would have to be tested
@@Guardian_Arias as long as the case has a constant airflow there should really not be much worries regarding PLA getting soft and the ambient air temp inside the case will rarely reach over 50 degrees even with a 80-90 degree CPU due to the constant change of air, but in case of fan failure or similar it might of course but it’s highly unlikely. PETG can handle it a lot better definitely. PLA will work in most cases still. 👌 some people report that they have gotten warped PLA cases but personally I have no issues with this as all my case designs have some kind of constant airflow replacing the internal air all the time never allowing it to get hot enough. 😊
@@dalemacdonald201 I see, but 120 AUD is about 80 USD, so that would equal to about what I paid, ordered mine from Amazon UK to Norway, with the shipping and taxes I ended up at roughly that price too for just the black fans.
I could definitely have shrunk it by a tiny bit as it is now by sacrificing for example the hard drives. But Idk if A liquid cooler would shrink it much but possibly 😊 given that I’d probably then need a 120mm fan and a thick radiator. And thank you! 😊
Looks really good. It would be quite easy to get some brass threaded inserts and heat-insert those with a soldering iron, to create "proper threads" for the pieces to screw together. This would make it a lot neater and disassembly when needed (and reassembly) would be more secure. Threaded inserts are quite cheap to buy too, and it would give a much more "pro" result for very little extra cost or effort. You could attach the standoffs the same way, insert and then standoff. Oh, and temp wise - I hope you printed this out of PETG or ASA, not PLA. PLA softens and flows quite easily, and is not suited to mechanical parts in any way. 60 degrees C is mentioned, but in my experience just heating it to 40 or 50 makes it prone to deforming if it's under any mechanical pressure, like from carrying relatively heavy PC components.
I did consider the inserts and I do actually have some laying around. Main reason for me not using them in this case was due to the thickness of the inner chassis. Also my Sketchup Pro license ran out as I’ve switched Cad software since then. I actually designed this about a year ago but due to various reasons I never got around to actually print it before stumbling across the STLs again a few week ago… The external cover is PLA because somehow it felt more matte in the finish than my PETG, apart from that the rest is PETG for all internal chassis parts and the top vent.
I think it’s about 5mm thickness on this specific model, and each individual panel feels a little flimsy by themselves, what really locks this in place is the fact that all the corners lock eachother in place. And then the external cover protecting it all. I’d recommend a minimum of 5mm but about 7mm would leave room for M3 threaded inserts also which can be handy sometimes too. Also keep in mind that that any parts that will carry weight should be printed laying flat for optimal strength.
@@jakehartley391 now I feel pressure 😅 what printer would that be? I’m thinking about getting something bigger and would love recommendations! A part of me wanna just go like 500x500 just because I can 😅
@@guythatsepic haha it was kind of a random idea that just came to me when planning the voice over. Started out something like «it’s size is so small, all black» and I was like hmm… I can add some more to that 😁
Thank you! I did actually have black ones, but when I built it I just realized they had slightly too big heads to fit inside the countersunk holes 😅 though I should have used them on the interior parts though. Or just slightly drilled out the cover holes to 1mm bigger.
I would've put the power button on the rear pannel, remove the drive cage in favor of N.2 drives and put a big fan at the top and front, really nice case though. xD
Thank you! I thought about a similar approach! 🙃 I do have two M.2 drives on the motherboard already. Just added the HDDs for the option honestly. Not that I personally use them either 😅
Thank you! I’ve been struggling with this and I’m not really sure how to fix these issues, especially the layer lines. I get occasional layer shifts too at times but they’re not too bad. Not exactly sure what’s wrong though. Although my printer (especially the cr10) has so many modifications it can no longer even be called a cr10 🤣
3:00 With the ssd there is no problem but the hdd in that position over time can degrade (due to the position of the needle) and work incorrectly. Better that the mounting be horizontal (in the next version), or change the hdd and mount 2 SSDs on the computer. 😉
All parts exept the external cover are PETG. The external cover is PLA, mainly because at least the PLA I’m using seems a bit more matte than my PETG. Keep in mind that even though the components can reach up to 80 degrees, the continious airflow never allows the ambient air to reach those temperatures. Both the CPU and GPU can run at 70+ degrees for hours no problem. 👌😊
Hi, even though the components reach up to 80 degrees doesn’t necessarily mean that all the air in the case heats up that much. Actually due to the air passing continiously past the CPU cooler will never allow the air to heat up that much, given the constant change of air inside the case. At 80 (just a peak, most of the time the degrees are just over 70 on the CPU) degrees the ambient air hardly reaches 50 at all. Way before the the plastic starts to soften. The external cover was printed in PLA which starts to soften at about 60+, but all internal parts were PETG which can handle about 85-90 before starting to soften.
Exactly! That’s what got me into this hobby in the first place. At first I just wanted a unique ITX case that no-one else had. And when I shared it to reddit the post kinda blew up, and I realised how many people who actually loved the build. So I decided to make videos about it and here I am two years later 😅👌
I agree, but just so hard to sand such an uneven surface evenly without damaging the texture. 😊 for a piece with more flat surfaces this would be a better option in my opinion
What a great technological development. I come from the 286, 386 and 486 era and finding a black case alone was almost impossible back then. Decades later there were already very nice gaming cases. And today... you print your case the way you want it. Craziness.
I remember as a kid I imagined what if I could just press a few buttons and have anything made right in front of me, like food, parts, legos, anything. I feel like we’re heading that way now. Wouldn’t suprise me if in 10-20 years we can possibly even 3D print an entire food dish😃
Honestly, I don’t even use them as all my files are on the two m.2 ssd’s on my motherboard. It was mainly intended to show that the option is there to add if wanted 😊
All internal parts were printed in PETG. Only the cover was printed in PLA as my PLA filament gave a slightly less glossy finish, but the cover has only intakes so this should not be a worry. 😊
god I hate those patterns that the 3D printers leave everywhere... What a piece of crap... Looks like a 20 year-old, and very used, black plastic breadbasket
Well, good thing a 20 year-old, and very used, black plastic breadbasket was just the look I aimed for! I guess I nailed it! Thanks for finally seeing it, you’re the first 😊
I like this but, personally I would reconfigure the PSU to be behind the motherboard and use a short PCIE riser to offset the gpu under the mobo. this way the cpu and psu are not competing for air space and a larger cpu cooler could be used.
That’s actually a pretty good idea! To have the GPU where the AIO is, and the AIO behind the motherboard could work too! Or just use a big air cooler definitely!
@@makerunit visually how I picture the concept is you have a T divider. Left side of T is mobo, right side is psu, top of T is gpu with riser. Then make it square enough to have it slide into an enclosure in multiple orientations.
@@CamBeulGaming forget my last comment… I was replying to some comments on my most recent build which uses an AIO. Since all new my comments end up listed together regardless of what video they’re from I forgot to check and assumed it was the other video. No AIO liquid cooler here 😅 But placing the PSU behind the motherboard and still keeping the same dimensions would not allow for bigger CPU coolers I think… maybe if optimized, a few millimeters but not that much. I get your idea of the T joint but for example in this case, the GPU gets air from below, CPU gets from the front intake fans, and PSU gets through the mesh in the side panel, meaning none of the parts actually compete for air tbh… 😅
I considered it, but chose not to as I’m personally not in a very dusty environment but definitely handy in some cases. One of my previous cases I used like thin pantyhose kind of fabric and it seemed to restrict the airflow a bit though it caught even tiny dust particles. It wasn’t like a huge lot difference in temperature a lot but by removing them I got a few degrees better temperatures.
www.printables.com/model/439873-clean-vented-cube-itx-pc-case Look on printables, then click «makes» below the picture. One guy actually made a borg cube customization on it.
I gotta be honest and say I can’t answer that due to no experience with Metal printing…but I assume if the accuracy is the same, why not? Would be really cool!
That’s a cool idea! Funny cause I actually wanted design something very similar but just in a blue/white color combo two years back but I ended up not doing it due to lack of CAD skills at that time, I didn’t know about this portal companion cube until now, but gave me some inspo for the future! 😊
I did have black screws at first but they didn’t fit the countersunk hole and I didn’t feel like re-printing the entire cover so I went for the silver ones instead (lazy me😅). The external cover on this is actually PLA. But all internals are PETG 😊
No heat damage. I’m using mostly PETG for my PC cases but for this specific one I did the external cover in PLA just due to my PLA filament was slightly less shiny than the PETG. But no issues so far. And no issues with any of my previous PLA cases either so far. I see many say they experienced deforming but I have not noticed anything with what I’ve made so far 😊
I doubt if any of the printed parts will get anywhere near 100 degrees. The ambient temperature on any of the components is more likely to be in the 40 to 50 degree range, and that's probably only directly behind the CPU, where there aren't any printed components at all. I don't think that you would normally put a high powered CPU or graphics card in a build like this. I printed this in PLA and it's fine. It's just not as strong as PETG so you have to be more careful with it, especially with the PSU bracket (I already broke one).
@@dalemacdonald201 did you print this case already? How do you like it? Happy with the outcome? 😊 Also, if I may ask, did the M3 screws directly into the plastic work fine for you? I’m curious to hear your experience. Feedback from people who actually made this is gold for me for future builds!
Unfortunatly has this (mini ITX) formfactor only one PCIe port. We needed a really compact pc for a client, but this aprroach is certainly verry clean and most important reproducable. Most ultra compact cases will be on the market for some time and then dissapear. Really cool!
First love this case I think it sex as hell..but what if you ditched the sata sleds rotate the front fans to horizontal and maybe made to fit 2x120mm fans for aio support? Or would that though off the measurement to much?
Thank you! I think there is just enough room if ditching the drives. If I completely remove the 92mm exhaust fan, replace it with two 40mm fans instead, I’ll be able to rotate the power supply and possibly have enough room in the back to fit the AIO thickness as they can be up to about 55mm including the fan.
Honestly. I was originally planning to, but then I changed my mind and wanted to make the walls as thin as possible. Also, it was just simpler to do it this way to be honest, required less parts. 😊 I realize now that you all really want those inserts, though I don’t think theyre the best for every single application. So for future projects I’ll be using them, I’ve got one coming up very soon now using them 👌
Hi! As Wojtek also explains here, PLA will hold up and rarely face any problems as long as there is an airflow in the case. The continious airflow would never allow the air to reach 60+ degrees. I have personally never experienced any PLA bending due to PC temps, one of my other cases R5 3600 + 2070 Super has been regularly used at 70-80 degrees for almost two years, still going strong, no deformation at all... But for this specific case all internal parts were printed in PETG, only the external cover was PLA here.
Funny thing about that actually. About this case. I designed it in January 2022… was supposed to be posted over a year ago but never actually made it to the printer due to various reasons until I actually stumbled upon the design files a few weeks ago and decided this had to be printed 😅
Honestly, I just try to go for PETG for PC parts whever possible. I mainly use a generic non-branded PETG filament that I buy at a store in Norway… generally PETG works pretty well for most purposes. Slightly more difficult to print but better overall heat resistance and layer bonding strength than PLA for example. Getting a PEI sheet really fixed all my PETG adhesion issues.
Thanks! Honestly. It’s rigidity feels super sturdy. Though if you drop it or something like that it’s likely to crack. Where a metal case would probably just dent.
Thank you! Good thing I printed all the internals in PETG then, only PLA part in this case is the external cover. The external cover has only intake fans so no worries on this one 😊
@@makerunit that’s perfect then! Pretty sick case, I wanna make something smaller that can fit my full atx parts but that’ll be a design challenge I don’t the time for
Thanks! All internal chassis parts are PETG so no worries there. External cover is PLA here but this should not be an issue as there is a continious airflow going through it as intakes and the only hot air out is through the top and rear that are both PETG. 👍
Thank you! 😊 I did really consider it but ended up going for the straight out of the printer look to show the simplicity of this project. I’ll definitely try to do something like that in the future 😊
I have made some mesh filters before using infill, zero top and bottom layers. Works pretty well. Honestly I didn’t want to add those extra millimeters so it would not fit the Ender 3 size 😊
if anybody is reading this comment i want to get into 3d printing i got some ideas like printing onto clothes to some extend but i dont know anything about printing only hearing from friends im looking for a solid printer under 500 usd
It really comes down to what print volume you want in my opinion. If you need to print large items perhaps go for something with a larger bed size, if only printing tiny models perhaps go for something smaller. Look at some RUclips reviews etc and see what you can find to fit your needs.
@@makerunit well in my country in our shops its mostly creality which have pretty bad reviews over here or prusas which are either small or expensive but i found some a SUNLU printer which isnt that expensive and is 310x310x400 and in the videos it gets pretty solid reviews out of the box i think im gonna try it also i watched a few videos on filaments are there any which you recommend?
@@Sharpzee I’m personally mainly just use some generic unbranded PETG from a local store… I can’t recommend any spesific brand apart from that unfortunately… I feel like all those «cheap» printers are good enough to be honest. Might require some small modifications to be perfect but I’m using a modified Creality CR10v2 and Ender-3 v2 and I’m happy with those… 😊
This is why I want a 3D printer. You could literally do whatever you want as long as you had Model for it.
I recommend you get into it 👍. There is a harsh learning curve but it is a pretty fun hobby. Do your research and make sure that you get the right 3D printer for you before buying one though.
Exactly! It’s a super fun hobby that I highly recommend! 😊 it’s not only useful for PC cases but you can fix so many other things with it as well!
Prusa 3D just announced their new i3 MK4; the Prusa i3 is kind of the benchmark for reliable and easy to use consumer printers, and this new MK4 has been dramatically improved again. It's not a dirt cheap choice though, in the $900 ballpark as a kit. But, you'd get an extremely reliable and surprisingly speedy printer due to the new improvements they've done to it, it could probably print this cover at half the time or maybe even less. Although - the i3 MK3s is now for sale at under $600 which is still a perfectly great printer. It's not as great as the $900 MK4 but my i3 works great and has since I got it.
Learn CAD and you can model it yourself
@@owen8399 exactly! Seems very advanced for someone with zero knowledge, but just by learning the basics you can make almost anything.
Looks great! So glad more and more 3d printed cases are coming out. Nice work.
Thank you so much! And there’s more to come!👌
@TheHighRishMan awesome! I would love to see how it looks in the end if you don’t mind sharing 😊
Love the work. Would recommend threaded inserts for those things that need taking apart again, and securing the top cover from the bottom to hide screws. Or make it just clip in.
Thanks Marcos! I have personally had bad experienced with threaded inserts in many cases. They seem to come loose if they aren’t 100% perfectly installed. As long as the plastic threads are not stripped they actually hold suprisingly well during assembly/disassembly multiple times.
@@makerunit I really like the heat inserted ones
CNC Kitchen did a good video about threaded inserts. Their test results show screwing directly into plastic is about as strong as good quality threaded inserts. I don't think they went into much detail on how repeatably it can be redone, but from my own experience, threaded inserts aren't really needed if you're careful with assembly/disassembly. Maybe only necessary if you are unscrewing it regularly.
@@cakilas8966 I suppose it also depends on what screws and what plastic. Like you say it depends on frequency as well - and I’m always having to open my PC for one thing or another!
@@cakilas8966 Exactly. I feel the grip of the threads are so much more secure than the inserts melted in place. When pushing in the inserts they often tend to leave air gaps not sealing 100%, also if they’re not inserted about perfectly straight they will loosen whenever the screw is tightened.
That's an awesome build!
With those Temps, probably a good idea to print in a higher temp material like PETG or ASA.
Also, you could add threaded inserts to help with the reusability of the screw holes
Thank you! Most parts were printed in PETG. I only printed the cover in PLA due to my PLA had a slightly more matte finish than my PETG spool to be honest. Otherwise I’d go PETG all the way. Though I have personally not experienced any issues with PLA in any of my case builds, I still prefer PETG due to it’s higher durability and stronger layer bonding.
About using threaded inserts, they look really clean and long term are probably a better solution if disassembling many times, but they have to be placed perfectly center and straight to hold well. If slightly out of line they risk breaking loose when tightening the parts together.
I love how clean and professional the video is, really inspires me to do some work on my end... Looking forward to seeing what you do next!
Thanks Tommy! Sometimes I feel (my own opinion) that my voice is very little enthusiastic when trying to explain what to do 🤣 I’ll try not to disappoint you in the future 😊
I'm definitely a 'shiny tech' freak, been so since I was very young and my father had a beautiful looking HiFi set. But sometimes, when tech comes with that 'furniture' look, it has a special appeal. Great build.
Thank you so much! The goal was to not scream «PC!» but rather be a nice but not too big aesthetic item on my desk 👍😊
WE NEED A BORG PATTERN!!!!
All black, green lights. Hmm, that’d be cool 😅 Am I crazy to say I’ve never watched Star Trek?
Looks cool but with those "vents" it would look cool with an RGB glow from inside. (yeah I know rgb 🤮)
Next up is a *Hellraiser* "Lament Configuration" itx puzzle box print lol (at least that's what this build made me think of).
Haha yeah a RGB glow would certainly look cool here! 😊
Would love to see this case printed in metal.
Sure, I’ll load up some welding wire into my CR10 and get printing right away sir! 😂
JK, that’d be very cool. Glad you liked it!
To improve the surface finish, try turning off combing and consider enabling ironing. Also if they aren't there already, consider modelling the threads inside the holes. You'd be surprised how well modern FDM printers can handle these details!
I can imagine that M3 threads would be hard to create, especially with a 0.6 nozzle, but definitely possible for larger threads. I have yet to teach myself how to make threads first… won’t ironing only affect the top layer? I’ll look into the combing settings 😊
@@makerunit Nozzle size shouldn't make TOO much of a difference to printing threads and other fine details, it more relies on how accurate your printer is. That's not to say it makes no difference, obviously the smaller the nozzle the less of a 'squish' in the layer at a given height. Layer height makes a bigger difference than nozzle diameter.
Threads are pretty easy in Fusion360 and there are plenty of tutorials, give it a try :)
Ironing affects any surface layer depending on what settings you have configured. It works the best on large flat surfaces and your case has plenty of those.
@@makerunit If you're using Fusion360 there is a very easy thread feature where you just select a cylinder and set the type of thread you want and it does the rest.
As for printing threads, I've done some experiments on my Prusa Mini and was able to print working M4 nuts and bolts, M3 might work with some tuning but I think you're better off just threading into the plastic at that size. Atleast that's what I do.
Naah. Threaded brass inserts designed to be heated and pushed into the plastic, with a soldering iron for instance. Form a very strong connection and you get a proper brass metal thread to screw into, and you can obviously un-screw or reattach as many times as necessary. Since, you know, brass.
You could also use something like a carbon fiber PLA or PETG. Great surface finish.
Looks really clean! Any issues with parts creeping/sagging over time from the heat?
Thank you! Honestly, not really, I see a lot of people worried about this. All the internals here are printed in PETG, the cover was printed in PLA mainly due to my PLA having a slightly more matte color than my PETG and warping seems like a smaller issue with PLA.
I have personally not experienced any issues related to PLA but I see some people say they have experienced a lot of it on other builds but as long as there is airflow it should be good tbh 😊
Ever had Problems with deformation of the plastic at gaming temps? PLA becomes quite weak at around 67°C
Or was it printed in ABS?
PETG should be fine and it's quite easy to print, I basically only use that. That handles 30+ degrees more than PLA. But yeah, if this is printed in PLA I would expect it to deform. Doesn't take 60+ degrees either imo, just warming it to 40-50 will probably cause issues down the line.
This was mainly printed in PETG. All the parts internally are PETG, only part that is PLA is the external cover due to its slightly more matte finish. It’s an intake in the front anyways and no exhausts on the cover, only in the rear where it’s PETG, so I’m not worried at all.
I’ve made multiple 100% PLA cases too and I have not experienced a single issue with PLA here either (yet at least).
How do you only have 3700 subs, your quality is so good. U got my sub :)
Haha thank you! Literally 2 days ago I just passed 2.5k subs in 2 years 😅 this video just blew up!
Missed opportunity that it doesn't has spaces for fan filters....
There’s about 2-3mm to go there so a thin filter would be possible between the fan and the chassis.
This case would be so useful if it were modeled for a plex server instead of a normal sffpc. Is it possible to remove the GPU holes and replace the 2 2.5 drives with 2 3.5 drives and give space for 2 more 3.5 drives where the GPU sits? That would be a killer plex setup.
Definitely, it can be edited using the supplied sketchup files. There should be enough room for probably 4 or 5 drives stacked on top of eachothers with a little spacing if removing the gpu and using a pico psu perhaps.
I absolutely love this build so far. I went with a Gigabyte B650I and Ryzen 9 7900 with a PNY 3060 12GB card for my build. I also opted for the Thermalright 15mm fans and CPU Cooler.
Currently, my only issue is I have attempted to print the cover for it 4 times, and every print fails for me; Octoprint just stops printing about 60-80% of the way through the large print.
Is there any chance of getting a flat version of the case cover in multiple pieces that could be assembled?
Hi there! I’m happy to hear you love the design! And I’m sorry to hear the external panel isn’t printing properly. Unfortunately this case was designed using Sketchup which I’m no longer using, and therefore I can not make any further changes to the design… :/ No idea why the print is failing so far through as many people have printed the case successfully. Have you tried rotating the print 90 degrees on the Z, sometimes small printing bugs can solve themselves just by rotating the piece on the build plate 😅
Amazing work! Would you mind if I printed/featured one of your designs on my channel? If not, no worries and if you want to discuss this further feel free to shoot me an email or DM on twitter.
Thank you Matt! I’m happy to hear that you like my work! I’ll DM you! 😊
Edit: My Twitter is bugged so I’m unable to DM you for some reason…
Anyways, you can go right ahead and feature any of my designs in a video! I’d appreciate a channel mention and credits though 👌😊 apart from that you’re free to do what you want with my designs Matt.
@@makerunit Awesome! and yes I plan on making it very clear it is your design along with talking about/linking your channel.
@@TechByMattB looking forward to it! 😊
@@makerunit Quick update! I printed your original 9.7L design and it turned out amazingly. The video should be out in a day or two and I'm making sure to credit you throughout the video and add of your links in the description.
@@TechByMattB That’s awesome Matt! Thanks for the update and I’m much looking forward to seeing your video 😊
man if plastic didnt look like ... plastic, these designs would blow me completely away. Sadly, the "printer" look to me is just ugly with most filaments and kind of ugly with some, and resin printing isnt quite strong enough for these types of builds despite looking "Okay" (tough resin works.. but I wouldnt trust expensive projects with it.) - Cant wait until PBF becomes more consumer friendly, metal can be worked to look so much better than plastic - and typically looks more "professional" right from the wash cycle anyways.
I love this design though, simple yet stylistic. Something about cubes just work for me, but then again having used blender for nearly a decade its almost symbolic to me at this point so maybe that's where I get it from haha.
I totally get what you mean! A full metal version would be freaking awesome! Perhaps a CNC’ed from flat pieces and welded together would work. I could have gotten a more detalied finish with lets say a 0.1mm layer height but the print would then take 5-6 days to complete. Would mean less visible lines and with some filler primer and a few coats of matte black paint it could be a pretty cool print, but plastic will definitely never beat real metal for sure!
@@makerunit CNC machining would definitely work but that defeats the point i think haha, 3D printers are definitely more consumer friendly!
You could for sure improve the overall build quality with smaller layers, but I think my personal problem is just with the aesthetic of plastic - but as you said you could probably cover it up to make it look more authentic!
I'm probably just too stoked about the idea of metal printers, as they have shown to even produce stronger structures than casting can produce. which is an impressive feat, while looking incredibly professional!
Imagining the projects people will post in 10 years is absolutely beyond me. Can't wait!
Anyways, thanks for the response and have a wonderful easter!
@@Skyflairl2p as soon as metal 3D printing reaches a «consumer» level I’m definitely getting one! I totally understand the worries of using an all plastic case, it’s got its ups and down definitely. Happy Easter to you too!
Very cool, but kinda raw
No I/O, dust clog whole setup, video card should have personal rack to be in fixed position before case assembling
Thank you! You could always attach the motherboard onto the plate first, then the rear exhaust plate and do it that way if you’re worried about the GPU wobbling 😊
this case looks damn amazing! i just passed my exams as an cnc operator and am looking for a way to design my own cube case with all sides same length which i want to mill then, aand this video was a very good inspiration!
Congrats on passing your exam! And I’m happy to hear I inspired you! I would definitely love to see that result if you make one. Sounds awesome I wish I had access to those kinds of tools. Maybe one day 😇
Pretty sweet man, about 30 USD if you use the most cost effective PLAs or up to 70 USD if you go with more exotic but reasonable PLAs and of course it could go way up with some other type of filaments.
With my preference of PLA it would run me approximately 40 USD, seriously awesome. Coincidentally it ran me approximately 15 USD to make a case out of some high quality plywood and would have ran me approximately 80 USD to make the same case out of solid dark walnut or mahogany. Of course 3D printing has a much lower point of entry and the time spend making the case per hour is laughable compared to a skilled Carpenter.
This would definitely look sick in dark walnut! Even though PLA should do fine here I would recommend going PETG if possible due to it’s higher temperature tolerance, and overall strength is a bit better in my opinion.
@@makerunit Agreed on the first account I love dark walnut and PETG probably would be a much better choice since it has a higher temperature tolerance and doesn't have as much material creep.
But the odds are high that a people with a 3D printer won't have PETG but will have PLA of any type on hand besides not all PLAs are equal either, especially silk PLA. Although the components themselves obviously can get to 90c enough to soften both types, i doubt any part of the case it self actually gets all that warm.
IDK that would have to be tested
@@Guardian_Arias as long as the case has a constant airflow there should really not be much worries regarding PLA getting soft and the ambient air temp inside the case will rarely reach over 50 degrees even with a 80-90 degree CPU due to the constant change of air, but in case of fan failure or similar it might of course but it’s highly unlikely. PETG can handle it a lot better definitely. PLA will work in most cases still. 👌 some people report that they have gotten warped PLA cases but personally I have no issues with this as all my case designs have some kind of constant airflow replacing the internal air all the time never allowing it to get hot enough. 😊
Haha. In Australia, the cheapest price for three Noctua fans is around $120, so the price of the filament is peanuts in comparison.
@@dalemacdonald201 I see, but 120 AUD is about 80 USD, so that would equal to about what I paid, ordered mine from Amazon UK to Norway, with the shipping and taxes I ended up at roughly that price too for just the black fans.
I love this project. Would water cooling make this more compact or less?
I could definitely have shrunk it by a tiny bit as it is now by sacrificing for example the hard drives. But Idk if A liquid cooler would shrink it much but possibly 😊 given that I’d probably then need a 120mm fan and a thick radiator. And thank you! 😊
Looks really good. It would be quite easy to get some brass threaded inserts and heat-insert those with a soldering iron, to create "proper threads" for the pieces to screw together. This would make it a lot neater and disassembly when needed (and reassembly) would be more secure. Threaded inserts are quite cheap to buy too, and it would give a much more "pro" result for very little extra cost or effort. You could attach the standoffs the same way, insert and then standoff. Oh, and temp wise - I hope you printed this out of PETG or ASA, not PLA. PLA softens and flows quite easily, and is not suited to mechanical parts in any way. 60 degrees C is mentioned, but in my experience just heating it to 40 or 50 makes it prone to deforming if it's under any mechanical pressure, like from carrying relatively heavy PC components.
I did consider the inserts and I do actually have some laying around. Main reason for me not using them in this case was due to the thickness of the inner chassis. Also my Sketchup Pro license ran out as I’ve switched Cad software since then. I actually designed this about a year ago but due to various reasons I never got around to actually print it before stumbling across the STLs again a few week ago…
The external cover is PLA because somehow it felt more matte in the finish than my PETG, apart from that the rest is PETG for all internal chassis parts and the top vent.
This is awesome!
Thank you! 😊
quick question: How thick is every internal piece? I want to make my own model but don't know what will be too thick/flimsy. Thanks(nice video!)
I think it’s about 5mm thickness on this specific model, and each individual panel feels a little flimsy by themselves, what really locks this in place is the fact that all the corners lock eachother in place. And then the external cover protecting it all.
I’d recommend a minimum of 5mm but about 7mm would leave room for M3 threaded inserts also which can be handy sometimes too. Also keep in mind that that any parts that will carry weight should be printed laying flat for optimal strength.
I see you are slowly prepping for the 200mm fan wind channel with the 210x210 dimensions :P
I'm getting there, I have not forgotten you Tim!
This is what I want. A mATX 200mm wind tunnel.
@@jakehartley391 Tim has been requesting this specific build on every video for over a year now! I guess it’s soon time for me to start listening 😁
@@makerunit I’ve got my 350x350x300 printer waiting for it. 😁
@@jakehartley391 now I feel pressure 😅 what printer would that be? I’m thinking about getting something bigger and would love recommendations! A part of me wanna just go like 500x500 just because I can 😅
Have a mighty need now lol, just curious.... is 170mm the max GPU length?
I measured that about 173mm would be the absolute maximum you could fit in there 😊
If anyone is trying to build this, DIY Perks made a video explaining how to smooth 3D printed parts with acetone so they don't look so cheap.
Thanks! I think. (?)
is nobody gonna acknowledge 4:58?
"its size is so small, yet so easy to turn on. all black and just a pleasure to use all day long"
Hahaha you’re literally the first one to mention this. 🤣 I really thought more people would comment on that
@@makerunit i was half listening and then that part just jumped out at me lol
@@guythatsepic haha it was kind of a random idea that just came to me when planning the voice over. Started out something like «it’s size is so small, all black» and I was like hmm… I can add some more to that 😁
you killing me with these non black screws :D!, amzing case . need all black everything though
Thank you! I did actually have black ones, but when I built it I just realized they had slightly too big heads to fit inside the countersunk holes 😅 though I should have used them on the interior parts though. Or just slightly drilled out the cover holes to 1mm bigger.
I would've put the power button on the rear pannel, remove the drive cage in favor of N.2 drives and put a big fan at the top and front, really nice case though. xD
Thank you!
I thought about a similar approach! 🙃 I do have two M.2 drives on the motherboard already. Just added the HDDs for the option honestly. Not that I personally use them either 😅
This is beautiful. But I demand you do it justice with some anodized socket-cap torx screws.
Thank you! I have ordered some to have ready for my next all black project! 👌
Great project!!!
You just need to tune your printer, you have problems with the surface finish and the layer lines.
Thank you! I’ve been struggling with this and I’m not really sure how to fix these issues, especially the layer lines. I get occasional layer shifts too at times but they’re not too bad. Not exactly sure what’s wrong though. Although my printer (especially the cr10) has so many modifications it can no longer even be called a cr10 🤣
Well, I'd like to see some sort of X-Box series X stylish PC at my desktop. Now I see something similar. Thanks a lot.
I’m glad to hear you found my case compelling 😊
I hope you are happy, now I have to buy a 3d printer. Thanks a lot! Great video though really. 10 stars and a like for you.
I’m sorry! 😅 and Thank you so much!😊
3:00 With the ssd there is no problem but the hdd in that position over time can degrade (due to the position of the needle) and work incorrectly. Better that the mounting be horizontal (in the next version), or change the hdd and mount 2 SSDs on the computer. 😉
I’m personally not really using the HDDs, I just added them in this one because I share the files and wanted it to at least be an option 😊
Im assuming you printed it in PETG ?
PLA would deform and melt at 70'
All parts exept the external cover are PETG. The external cover is PLA, mainly because at least the PLA I’m using seems a bit more matte than my PETG. Keep in mind that even though the components can reach up to 80 degrees, the continious airflow never allows the ambient air to reach those temperatures. Both the CPU and GPU can run at 70+ degrees for hours no problem. 👌😊
Thanks for the files and the video. Hope the probably PLA can resist that temp of the grafics card long enough without getting soft.
All internal and rear/top panels are PETG. I used PLA for the external cover only, but this has only intakes so should not be a worry at all 👌👍
Just need to add some green LEDs and you have yourself a Borg Cube.
A guy actually made a Borg Cube remix of this case. Check out the «makes» under the printables link in the video description 👍
Imagine getting a CNC shop to 3D print this out of metal!
Would be pretty sick! But imagine the hole in your wallet too if this was machined from a solid piece of metal 😅
what's the melting point of the material? does 80 degrees of celcius would made the case soft for example?
Hi, even though the components reach up to 80 degrees doesn’t necessarily mean that all the air in the case heats up that much. Actually due to the air passing continiously past the CPU cooler will never allow the air to heat up that much, given the constant change of air inside the case. At 80 (just a peak, most of the time the degrees are just over 70 on the CPU) degrees the ambient air hardly reaches 50 at all. Way before the the plastic starts to soften.
The external cover was printed in PLA which starts to soften at about 60+, but all internal parts were PETG which can handle about 85-90 before starting to soften.
You need black screws! :D
Nice build! ;)
Noted! 😊 I’ll make sure to hide those next time! Thanks!
I had the same idea, Maybe in the future I will make mine! Yours looks good :)
Do it! I’d love to see your results!
i'm printing one right now for a customer but I think I'll print one for myself as well :D
Hi! I'm glad to hear you like my design. May I ask, do you run a print on demand business or do you sell my model on your website?
this reminds me g4 cube mac, specially with that easy open external cover.
I see what you mean 😊
Incredible design, stop by my channel in case you want to steal an idea for your next work, regards
Thank you! I’ll check it out definitely!
Would be interesting how it would look with a metal printer.
As soon as they are affordable I’d love to buy one! 😊
IDK what it is but I almost just scrolled right past this video, the thumbnail looks so much like an ad
Haha I guess that’s positive and negative at the same time? 😅
so often there things i need to dealt with and... "man it would be so easy to have a 3D printer"... 😥😥
Just go for it! You’re saying it yourself, it’ll fix so many of your problems in life 👌😅
Custom built rigs like these are what make the whole pc community stand out. You can make a cheap system look amazing with the right mindset
Exactly! That’s what got me into this hobby in the first place. At first I just wanted a unique ITX case that no-one else had. And when I shared it to reddit the post kinda blew up, and I realised how many people who actually loved the build. So I decided to make videos about it and here I am two years later 😅👌
Too bad you didn't print it in some silk or 2 color split filament. would look really cool to see different angles and light shimmering off sides.
Great idea for the future, would really look cool! 😊
It looks really nice, but some light sanding would’ve taken it to the next level.
I agree, but just so hard to sand such an uneven surface evenly without damaging the texture. 😊 for a piece with more flat surfaces this would be a better option in my opinion
What a great technological development. I come from the 286, 386 and 486 era and finding a black case alone was almost impossible back then. Decades later there were already very nice gaming cases. And today... you print your case the way you want it. Craziness.
I remember as a kid I imagined what if I could just press a few buttons and have anything made right in front of me, like food, parts, legos, anything. I feel like we’re heading that way now.
Wouldn’t suprise me if in 10-20 years we can possibly even 3D print an entire food dish😃
I wouldn't bother putting a HDD in, let alone 2. They're heavy and loud. You can get SATA SSDs for pretty cheap these days.
Honestly, I don’t even use them as all my files are on the two m.2 ssd’s on my motherboard. It was mainly intended to show that the option is there to add if wanted 😊
@@makerunit Fair enough!
are you now worried about PLA warping under those heat loads over time?
All internal parts were printed in PETG. Only the cover was printed in PLA as my PLA filament gave a slightly less glossy finish, but the cover has only intakes so this should not be a worry. 😊
god I hate those patterns that the 3D printers leave everywhere...
What a piece of crap...
Looks like a 20 year-old, and very used, black plastic breadbasket
Well, good thing a 20 year-old, and very used, black plastic breadbasket was just the look I aimed for! I guess I nailed it! Thanks for finally seeing it, you’re the first 😊
@@makerunit haha sorry, yeah...
love the design, looks really clean!
I was wondering what would roughly be the maximium dimensions for a GPU?
i've already found it at the 3d files!
Thank you, I’m glad you found your answer!👍😊
Cool, but why wouldn't you use black and flat head screws?
Thanks! Honestly I did actually order some black ones but they turned out to have too big heads 😅
I like this but, personally I would reconfigure the PSU to be behind the motherboard and use a short PCIE riser to offset the gpu under the mobo. this way the cpu and psu are not competing for air space and a larger cpu cooler could be used.
That’s actually a pretty good idea! To have the GPU where the AIO is, and the AIO behind the motherboard could work too! Or just use a big air cooler definitely!
@@makerunit visually how I picture the concept is you have a T divider. Left side of T is mobo, right side is psu, top of T is gpu with riser. Then make it square enough to have it slide into an enclosure in multiple orientations.
@@CamBeulGaming forget my last comment… I was replying to some comments on my most recent build which uses an AIO. Since all new my comments end up listed together regardless of what video they’re from I forgot to check and assumed it was the other video. No AIO liquid cooler here 😅
But placing the PSU behind the motherboard and still keeping the same dimensions would not allow for bigger CPU coolers I think… maybe if optimized, a few millimeters but not that much.
I get your idea of the T joint but for example in this case, the GPU gets air from below, CPU gets from the front intake fans, and PSU gets through the mesh in the side panel, meaning none of the parts actually compete for air tbh… 😅
The only thing I would change about the case is to leave some room for super thin and fine meshes so that dust cannot get into the case as easily
I considered it, but chose not to as I’m personally not in a very dusty environment but definitely handy in some cases.
One of my previous cases I used like thin pantyhose kind of fabric and it seemed to restrict the airflow a bit though it caught even tiny dust particles. It wasn’t like a huge lot difference in temperature a lot but by removing them I got a few degrees better temperatures.
Would love to see some fan filter inserts and or magnetic points where fan filters can attach.
There is room for some thin filters between the fans and the chassis, there’s about 2-3mm of extra room
A cube? Why didn‘t you make it look like a Borg Cube? With green glooming light inside… A real eyecatcher!
www.printables.com/model/439873-clean-vented-cube-itx-pc-case
Look on printables, then click «makes» below the picture. One guy actually made a borg cube customization on it.
@@makerunit Great! Thank you for the link!
What kind of filament are you printing with i heard pla isn't great for the pc
I used PETG for most parts, all but the external cover which was PLA. The external cover has only intakes so this should be no issue here 😊
Very cool...
Thank you’
How suitable would this be for printing in metal?
I gotta be honest and say I can’t answer that due to no experience with Metal printing…but I assume if the accuracy is the same, why not? Would be really cool!
What’s the clearance for the GPU? Want to see if I can use a small 2 Fan GPU
The total length allowed for the GPU is about 173mm, possibly about 187mm approx. if not using the lower front intake fan.
what program of 3D do you use to create stuff like this?
This speficic design was made a while ago using Sketchup Pro, but recently I have moved on to use Shapr3D for my designs.
I wonder, would a resin printed case be doable? Or not strong enough
Great question, but unfortunately I can’t answer that as I have no experience with resin (yet) 😅
best video for lunch. recommending for sure!
Thank you so much!
I would have this made if it was a portal companion cube
That’s a cool idea! Funny cause I actually wanted design something very similar but just in a blue/white color combo two years back but I ended up not doing it due to lack of CAD skills at that time, I didn’t know about this portal companion cube until now, but gave me some inspo for the future! 😊
Thanks! That's such a great option of making 100% compatible case for your custom needs!
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it!
Very nice design! But can we move to Printables and stop using Thingiverse please...
You’re not the first, and probably not the last to suggest this. I really experience a lot of bugs with Thingiverse…I’ll see what I can do!😊
Done! www.printables.com/model/439873-clean-vented-cube-itx-pc-case :D
WOAH 1.2KG?? That’s a months supply of filament for most people used up for only one project? I’d just use plywood or fibreboard
Yes, that’s how 3D printing works unfortunately. 😊
woulda used black screws, and please dont do this in PLA. Also id secure the cover with some strong magnets to have easy access
I did have black screws at first but they didn’t fit the countersunk hole and I didn’t feel like re-printing the entire cover so I went for the silver ones instead (lazy me😅). The external cover on this is actually PLA. But all internals are PETG 😊
@@makerunit ps sick build n print
Did you use PLA? do you have any concerns about the PLA melting I know CPUs can hit 100 C wasn't sure how hot the case would get? Any heat damage?
No heat damage. I’m using mostly PETG for my PC cases but for this specific one I did the external cover in PLA just due to my PLA filament was slightly less shiny than the PETG. But no issues so far. And no issues with any of my previous PLA cases either so far. I see many say they experienced deforming but I have not noticed anything with what I’ve made so far 😊
I doubt if any of the printed parts will get anywhere near 100 degrees.
The ambient temperature on any of the components is more likely to be in the 40 to 50 degree range, and that's probably only directly behind the CPU, where there aren't any printed components at all.
I don't think that you would normally put a high powered CPU or graphics card in a build like this.
I printed this in PLA and it's fine. It's just not as strong as PETG so you have to be more careful with it, especially with the PSU bracket (I already broke one).
@@dalemacdonald201 did you print this case already? How do you like it? Happy with the outcome? 😊
Also, if I may ask, did the M3 screws directly into the plastic work fine for you? I’m curious to hear your experience. Feedback from people who actually made this is gold for me for future builds!
That drilling @ 1:30 made my bones hurt
I think you should see a doctor. That should not happen…
Unfortunatly has this (mini ITX) formfactor only one PCIe port. We needed a really compact pc for a client, but this aprroach is certainly verry clean and most important reproducable. Most ultra compact cases will be on the market for some time and then dissapear. Really cool!
Thank you! 😊 I hope I inspired you!
I printed this case in all white and I adjusted the motherboard plate so I can hold an Nvidia Jetson nano cluster array.
Works perfectly
Awesome! Feel free to post a «Make» on Printables and share some pictures if you don’t mind! I’d really love to see your result! 😊
First love this case I think it sex as hell..but what if you ditched the sata sleds rotate the front fans to horizontal and maybe made to fit 2x120mm fans for aio support? Or would that though off the measurement to much?
Thank you! I think there is just enough room if ditching the drives. If I completely remove the 92mm exhaust fan, replace it with two 40mm fans instead, I’ll be able to rotate the power supply and possibly have enough room in the back to fit the AIO thickness as they can be up to about 55mm including the fan.
@@makerunit or one could just dich the sleds and just a small tower type air cooler like a hyper 212 as opposed to an aio or lp air cooler..
@@killerhawks if using a PICO, or FLEX atx psu it might be possible to fit even a 120mm fan cooler.
What's the GPU Clearance on this?
I’d say 170mm length to be on the safe side but I believe about 172-173 is the maximum that physically can fit.
How come you didn't use press fittings and just screwed straight into the plastic?
Honestly. I was originally planning to, but then I changed my mind and wanted to make the walls as thin as possible. Also, it was just simpler to do it this way to be honest, required less parts. 😊 I realize now that you all really want those inserts, though I don’t think theyre the best for every single application. So for future projects I’ll be using them, I’ve got one coming up very soon now using them 👌
@@makerunit oh cool! Fair enough then 😁
How thick is the motherboard try and is it safe from deforming when cpu heats up on longer periods of time?
@@wojtek-33 i dont have experience with 3d printing but i heard some models will deform when exposed to heat.
Hi! As Wojtek also explains here, PLA will hold up and rarely face any problems as long as there is an airflow in the case. The continious airflow would never allow the air to reach 60+ degrees. I have personally never experienced any PLA bending due to PC temps, one of my other cases R5 3600 + 2070 Super has been regularly used at 70-80 degrees for almost two years, still going strong, no deformation at all...
But for this specific case all internal parts were printed in PETG, only the external cover was PLA here.
Good to see you active again
Funny thing about that actually. About this case. I designed it in January 2022… was supposed to be posted over a year ago but never actually made it to the printer due to various reasons until I actually stumbled upon the design files a few weeks ago and decided this had to be printed 😅
It looks so satisfying. Very nice.
Thank you!
How do you decide what fillament to use?
Honestly, I just try to go for PETG for PC parts whever possible. I mainly use a generic non-branded PETG filament that I buy at a store in Norway… generally PETG works pretty well for most purposes. Slightly more difficult to print but better overall heat resistance and layer bonding strength than PLA for example. Getting a PEI sheet really fixed all my PETG adhesion issues.
This is a great build! How do you find it's structural rigidity compares to that of a normal aluminium/metal case?
Thanks! Honestly. It’s rigidity feels super sturdy. Though if you drop it or something like that it’s likely to crack. Where a metal case would probably just dent.
Now imagine if you could make it from sheets of acrylic, or make a mold and do it from cast plastic or some other material
That would be sick! 👌
Very Beautiful video
Thank you 😊
Looks like a cross of a Xbox and milk crate
Haha, yeah it’s got some similarities definitely.
Would love to see this case printed in metal.
Hmm, where can I get the metal printing attachment for my CR10? 😅😅
Why are u using two hdd? why not ssd or m.2?
I’m using 2x m.2 actually. The HDD’s are just there as an option because I’m sharing the files. I’m not really using them either 😁
I worry that pla will be too soft at the tempts the pc might reach
But great case if printed with something more temp resistant
Thank you!
Good thing I printed all the internals in PETG then, only PLA part in this case is the external cover. The external cover has only intake fans so no worries on this one 😊
@@makerunit that’s perfect then! Pretty sick case, I wanna make something smaller that can fit my full atx parts but that’ll be a design challenge I don’t the time for
@@RedstoneCraftermc I see. I might try something like that in the future with fullsize parts in the most compact build possible.
I would love this is additive alluminum
One day… one day my friend 😊
I haven't printed a full case before but I like printing brackets, logos, and general personalisation and adding them into a standard case
That’s what I love about 3D printers, they can make it all, from tiny details to huge complete builds. 😊
Nice one, you could probably get some 120mm fans in there with some tweaking
Thanks! By sacrificing the hard drive space, I believe it should be possible with 120mm fans.
nice but bit worried it might melt if pc gets too hot
Thanks! All internal chassis parts are PETG so no worries there. External cover is PLA here but this should not be an issue as there is a continious airflow going through it as intakes and the only hot air out is through the top and rear that are both PETG. 👍
very nice , personally i would have air brushed it to give it a silver matte look , but thats me the design is BEAUTIFUL 10/10 VANITY score
Thank you! 😊 I did really consider it but ended up going for the straight out of the printer look to show the simplicity of this project. I’ll definitely try to do something like that in the future 😊
Just be careful what paint you use not everything is good for plastic and will warp it.
@@Bigdog1787 that’s a good point. Some paints might react with the plastic. Thanks for the heads up! 😊
Love to get one sent over for a build showcase / review
You can print a mesh for avoid dust inside the case. I made some for my custon 3D printed cases.
I can send you some models if you like.
I have made some mesh filters before using infill, zero top and bottom layers. Works pretty well. Honestly I didn’t want to add those extra millimeters so it would not fit the Ender 3 size 😊
@@makerunit My meshes just add 0.4mm per side.
@@HgArgen I see, what nozzle size are they printed with? How are their strength and durability at that thickness?
if anybody is reading this comment i want to get into 3d printing i got some ideas like printing onto clothes to some extend but i dont know anything about printing only hearing from friends im looking for a solid printer under 500 usd
It really comes down to what print volume you want in my opinion. If you need to print large items perhaps go for something with a larger bed size, if only printing tiny models perhaps go for something smaller. Look at some RUclips reviews etc and see what you can find to fit your needs.
@@makerunit well in my country in our shops its mostly creality which have pretty bad reviews over here or prusas which are either small or expensive but i found some a SUNLU printer which isnt that expensive and is 310x310x400 and in the videos it gets pretty solid reviews out of the box i think im gonna try it also i watched a few videos on filaments are there any which you recommend?
@@Sharpzee I’m personally mainly just use some generic unbranded PETG from a local store… I can’t recommend any spesific brand apart from that unfortunately… I feel like all those «cheap» printers are good enough to be honest. Might require some small modifications to be perfect but I’m using a modified Creality CR10v2 and Ender-3 v2 and I’m happy with those… 😊