Thanks for the detailed video. Is it advisable to remove that metal piece @3:00 and clean the seal head once in a while? Does the shock have to be depressurized before removing that piece? I found some faint lengthwise marks on my damper shaft and wondering if there is dirt in there.
It doesn't hurt but probably good enough to wash it out with a garden hose without removing the cover. No need to depressurize it for removing the cover. The lengthwise marks are pretty standard on the steel shafts for this and other shocks. They don't seem to cause a leak.
Is there any way of extending the stroke of a shock to allow more extension? I have an Ohlins stx 46 shock (motorcycle) which I need another 10mm of travel on
This is a mountainbike shock, and the stroke increase is possible by using different sealhead covers. There is only 7.5 mm between the shortest and longest travel options. I am not familiar with the options for the STX 46.
Crazy. To be fair, the service kit (sealhead, bladder, and bottom out bumper) is ~70USD, so that explains why it's more expensive than most shocks. Also, if you buy the various static seals from Ohlins, it's an extra 30ish USD. Then if you actually replace all of those, you are doing an hour of unnecessary work because they pretty much never cause a leak. So, it adds up. The problem is that a lot of suspension shops are not willing/have the knowledge to adjust the scope of the service for a given scenario. For example, this shock only needed a basic service and took little time as shown in the video.
I am ordering the oil for doing this, putoline HPX R 2.5W. I’m planning on doing my front RXF 36, do you know if they use the same 2.5 oil in the cartridge?
It is 100% ideal and recommended to use nitrogen, but in practice for MTB the difference is negligible, especially for the average rider. Nitrogen is a "dry" gas; air tends to hold some moisture which could corroded various things (in theory, but in practice there is not much going on in that chamber to corrode and there is generally some oil present to stop this as well). Air also expands at a slightly more rapid rate when hot leading to slightly more pressure increase when compared with nitrogen. Again in practice it really does not matter for the average person. I have never seen a shock fail due to using air as long as you actually service it regularly, if anything when it gets super hot you may notice it feeling stiffer and loss of small bump sensitivity, but I would be shocked if most people would notice this (this really is more noticeable on a moto). Some manuals will even say to use nitrogen if possible, but air is fine. All that being said, if you are servicing things for others professionally, pure nitrogen is the way, but I would not judge someone super harshly for using air. In practice it really is just fine
@@jakeelliotmarshall no, it needs to be a proper needle, i.e. really thin. Even with the needle it will be challenging when doing it for the first time.
thank you so much i haven’t been able to find a service manual or anything for the tx22m it’s ridiculous
Thanks for the detailed video. Is it advisable to remove that metal piece @3:00 and clean the seal head once in a while? Does the shock have to be depressurized before removing that piece? I found some faint lengthwise marks on my damper shaft and wondering if there is dirt in there.
It doesn't hurt but probably good enough to wash it out with a garden hose without removing the cover. No need to depressurize it for removing the cover. The lengthwise marks are pretty standard on the steel shafts for this and other shocks. They don't seem to cause a leak.
@@simonszoke1479 Thank you very much Simon
@@simonszoke1479any ideas what is the torque needed to tighten the valve piston holder to a shaft? thanks
@@c0rky0001 17Nm
Just rook my öhlins apart and it's surprisingly easy! Takes like 15mins
Is there any way of extending the stroke of a shock to allow more extension? I have an Ohlins stx 46 shock (motorcycle) which I need another 10mm of travel on
This is a mountainbike shock, and the stroke increase is possible by using different sealhead covers. There is only 7.5 mm between the shortest and longest travel options. I am not familiar with the options for the STX 46.
The service in finland for this shock is 250eur
Crazy. To be fair, the service kit (sealhead, bladder, and bottom out bumper) is ~70USD, so that explains why it's more expensive than most shocks. Also, if you buy the various static seals from Ohlins, it's an extra 30ish USD. Then if you actually replace all of those, you are doing an hour of unnecessary work because they pretty much never cause a leak. So, it adds up. The problem is that a lot of suspension shops are not willing/have the knowledge to adjust the scope of the service for a given scenario. For example, this shock only needed a basic service and took little time as shown in the video.
Yeah, Probably best practise to do this DIY way, since its needed quite often@@simonszoke1479
Hi. @simonszoke1479 Where did you buy this service kit? I cannot find it even on Öhlins website. Great video.
Thanks@@nikoe6417 . FYI: www.mtb-hydraulics.com/product-page/ohlins-ttx-22-coil-shock-rebuild-kit
hello there can you make a video of Ohlins 38 DH fork cause i cant see any videos how to make service
I will if I get one in for service. I almost never work on Ohlins forks though.
I am ordering the oil for doing this, putoline HPX R 2.5W.
I’m planning on doing my front RXF 36, do you know if they use the same 2.5 oil in the cartridge?
The for damper uses the Ohlins 5wt oil.
Hi, are these shock’s filled with nitrogen? So how can you do the maintenance whitout it? I’m pretty confused😮
Air is 78% nitrogen, just a slight impurity.
That answer did not help at all...
It is 100% ideal and recommended to use nitrogen, but in practice for MTB the difference is negligible, especially for the average rider.
Nitrogen is a "dry" gas; air tends to hold some moisture which could corroded various things (in theory, but in practice there is not much going on in that chamber to corrode and there is generally some oil present to stop this as well). Air also expands at a slightly more rapid rate when hot leading to slightly more pressure increase when compared with nitrogen. Again in practice it really does not matter for the average person. I have never seen a shock fail due to using air as long as you actually service it regularly, if anything when it gets super hot you may notice it feeling stiffer and loss of small bump sensitivity, but I would be shocked if most people would notice this (this really is more noticeable on a moto). Some manuals will even say to use nitrogen if possible, but air is fine.
All that being said, if you are servicing things for others professionally, pure nitrogen is the way, but I would not judge someone super harshly for using air. In practice it really is just fine
Can you tell me an exact pressure for the ifp please?
175 psi
Hi where i can find pump and syringe for ttx 22m ?
www.mtb-hydraulics.com/tools
Can you use a football pump needle?
@@jakeelliotmarshall no, it needs to be a proper needle, i.e. really thin. Even with the needle it will be challenging when doing it for the first time.
Sarebbe interessante vedere anche service di forcelle... Soprattutto parte idraulica
Can I have some of those M&Ms?
Every $1000 of purchase from mtb-hydraulics.com comes with a bag.
What oil it is? please
Ohlins 2.5 wt
sehr schlechte Arbeit
wieso? Und gibt es ein Video wo es besser gezeigt wird?