Great video! I'm not trying to be critical, but I do have a suggestion. As a 30-year Furniture Builder, cabinet maker and precision Flat Panel products manufacturer, that used handheld routers and CNC routers for many many years, I would like to explain the error in your instructions as far as the router bit placement. You are telling them to take the router bit and push it in as far as they can until it stops. This is a mistake. The cone-shaped item that squeezes the router bit is called the collet. You should push the router bit as far as you can push it and then pull it back about a 1/16" or 3/32" The router bit needs a small amount of space behind the base of the bit to draw down fully, before it is bottomed out so that when you tighten down the nut on the collet it does not bottom out. If you do not give the router bit space before you tighten the nut on the collet the bit will rattle loose and fall out, cause damage to your product and machine. So it would be better to say, push the router bit as far as you can and then pull it back just a little bit to give it a some space. As you tighten the nut it would draw the router bit down more and you don't want it to bottom out before it is fully tight. This is the way we trained all our employees after many costly mishaps. Thank you and good luck.
Good advice! As a retired jewelry manufacturer, in my forty years of changing bits and working to microns by hand, I've found that most very small bits are slightly off center and must be trued in the collet before tightening & can't be bottomed out. Even larger tool bits need a second look. A wobble of 0.15mm can cause issues in jewelry; proportionately in fine woodwork. You may have prevented grief to those who wish to master their skills. I trained under uncompromising old world masters. May your noble work stand the test of time also.
Hey Vlad, I really enjoy your videos! Only one thing though, sometimes when your halfway through a sentence you cut out and skip the middle parts, I find it a bit hard to follow and interpret all the words you say.
Your not going to get the best of any of the 3 functions it does. And you need plus and pro to get size and direct drive. 500-600 for ender. 300 for laser 500 plus for engraver. Then you got instead of half meter 1.5 meters of bench
In all honesty... I am not really impressed by the out-of-the-box printing quality. There are a lot of under extrusions and blobs in the first print. For this price point I was expecting a lot better. I am sure you could improve the quality a lot with a amount of fine tuning, but (again for this price point) this should not be an issue with the standard profile. I honestly got better results with a humble Ender 3 S1 with a standard Ender 3 s1profile, without any tweaking. It's not bad, but I was honestly expecting more. The build quality and construction of this machine looks superb without any question, but that does not amount to much if the output quality is less or just on par with a machine that's about 1/4 to 1/3 of the price. Of course I should take in consideration this machine has CNC and Engraving/Cutting capacity, and I am especially interested in the CNC capacities (I do not care that much about Engraving to be honest, although the cutting capacity is not bad at all). I would like to see if the CNC spindle is sturdy enough to process metal, or fine enough to make something like a PCB. I really don't like that changing the platform takes loosing and re-tighting all bolts. Especially if you have to mount the platform really tight there is a high risk of wearing out the thread in a relatively short time, especially because the mounts are not hardened steel or something. A better choice would have been a standard (print) platform with extra mounts for the two other functions (or use hardened steel bus thread or something). Still - A very nice machine, but I doubt if it's really worth the high price point...
We have this at work, it’s a really loud printer and I find that the quality is not worth the price. There are cheaper printers, who perform much better
You must have the original A350? The A350T is vastly improved in sound and speed. I upgraded my original A350 and I recorded a short before & after video comparing sound levels. ruclips.net/video/lrYYHCy0vDU/видео.html
New Channel: www.youtube.com/@Just_Print
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Your presentation and instruction are as quality as the A350t. Thanks for the clarity and details!
Big time saver and doubt neutralizer.
Great video! I'm not trying to be critical, but I do have a suggestion. As a 30-year Furniture Builder, cabinet maker and precision Flat Panel products manufacturer, that used handheld routers and CNC routers for many many years, I would like to explain the error in your instructions as far as the router bit placement. You are telling them to take the router bit and push it in as far as they can until it stops. This is a mistake. The cone-shaped item that squeezes the router bit is called the collet. You should push the router bit as far as you can push it and then pull it back about a 1/16" or 3/32"
The router bit needs a small amount of space behind the base of the bit to draw down fully, before it is bottomed out so that when you tighten down the nut on the collet it does not bottom out.
If you do not give the router bit space before you tighten the nut on the collet the bit will rattle loose and fall out, cause damage to your product and machine.
So it would be better to say, push the router bit as far as you can and then pull it back just a little bit to give it a some space. As you tighten the nut it would draw the router bit down more and you don't want it to bottom out before it is fully tight. This is the way we trained all our employees after many costly mishaps. Thank you and good luck.
Good advice! As a retired jewelry manufacturer, in my forty years of changing bits and working to microns by hand, I've found that most very small bits are slightly off center and must be trued in the collet before tightening & can't be bottomed out. Even larger
tool bits need a second look. A wobble of 0.15mm can cause issues in jewelry; proportionately in fine woodwork. You may have prevented grief to those who wish to master their skills. I trained under uncompromising old world masters. May your noble work stand the test of time also.
Excellent video mate, loved everything you do.
What is the maximum thickness it can cut? What materials?
Thank you for sharing! Great video.
Max thickness of wood cutting is about 15 mm but it depends on what bit u are using
Your videos are immaculate crafted, created and edited. Thank you.
I just watched an hour and a half video of a 3d printer I will never get…
Really nice video well explained
Great, I am from Tigtak team , are you interested in testing our special PLA+ filament?
I want one
buy one just costs 2k
Hey Vlad, I really enjoy your videos! Only one thing though, sometimes when your halfway through a sentence you cut out and skip the middle parts, I find it a bit hard to follow and interpret all the words you say.
Please review ender 2 pro, tnx👌
Don't get me wrong looks super cool but not worth $2,000 you can buy an ender 3 for $189 and buy accessories for it.
Your not going to get the best of any of the 3 functions it does. And you need plus and pro to get size and direct drive. 500-600 for ender. 300 for laser 500 plus for engraver. Then you got instead of half meter 1.5 meters of bench
That machine would end up annoying me 11 mins to pre heat After pressing print! Still not good enough for me all them layer lines!
In all honesty... I am not really impressed by the out-of-the-box printing quality. There are a lot of under extrusions and blobs in the first print. For this price point I was expecting a lot better. I am sure you could improve the quality a lot with a amount of fine tuning, but (again for this price point) this should not be an issue with the standard profile. I honestly got better results with a humble Ender 3 S1 with a standard Ender 3 s1profile, without any tweaking. It's not bad, but I was honestly expecting more. The build quality and construction of this machine looks superb without any question, but that does not amount to much if the output quality is less or just on par with a machine that's about 1/4 to 1/3 of the price.
Of course I should take in consideration this machine has CNC and Engraving/Cutting capacity, and I am especially interested in the CNC capacities (I do not care that much about Engraving to be honest, although the cutting capacity is not bad at all). I would like to see if the CNC spindle is sturdy enough to process metal, or fine enough to make something like a PCB. I really don't like that changing the platform takes loosing and re-tighting all bolts. Especially if you have to mount the platform really tight there is a high risk of wearing out the thread in a relatively short time, especially because the mounts are not hardened steel or something. A better choice would have been a standard (print) platform with extra mounts for the two other functions (or use hardened steel bus thread or something). Still - A very nice machine, but I doubt if it's really worth the high price point...
But all 3d printers and cnc require fine tuning if you have ever used them for long.
We have this at work, it’s a really loud printer and I find that the quality is not worth the price. There are cheaper printers, who perform much better
what about the cnc and laser features?
@@darknessstorm333 haven’t used the laser, but CNC is alright.
The T Version is much much quieter than the older models
@@ObsCure118 Yes and the part cooling is bad on the older ones I have one and I can’t wait for my updated dual extrusion module to come
You must have the original A350?
The A350T is vastly improved in sound and speed. I upgraded my original A350 and I recorded a short before & after video comparing sound levels.
ruclips.net/video/lrYYHCy0vDU/видео.html
Why is this Product Garbage? I don’t see anything wrong with it it performs perfectly!
Heck with all this! Way to much work involved for a 3D printer they can keep this one!
Seems like a pain in the ass to take the heated bed off all the time just to change functions