Dana 300 Rebuild 4 of 4 | Project Rowdy Ep035
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- This is Part 4 of my Dana 300 Transfer Case rebuild. This Dana 300 will be installed in my 1979 Jeep CJ7 during my LS Swap conversion. I will be using the Crown D300-MASKIT Master Rebuild Kit which includes all of the Bearings, Races, Seals, Gaskets, Needle Bearing, Intermediate Shaft, and Shift Fork Pads for this rebuild.
Project Rowdy is a restoration on a 1979 Jeep CJ7.
Parts and Items Used in this Episode:
Crown D300-MASKIT: amzn.to/2FjOjQ1
ChannelLock Snap Ring Pliers: amzn.to/2ZDxW9Z
Auto Bearing Race Seal Driver: amzn.to/36dh78z
Cresent 3/8" Deep Socket: amzn.to/37rS1mD
Permatex Blue ThreadLocker: amzn.to/39B9KK5
Permatex Gasket Maker: amzn.to/35kpZbe
Timken 25877 Bearing: amzn.to/2Ol43a8
Dana 300 Service Guide: bit.ly/36RyRph
Project Rowdy Playlist: www.youtube.co....
UCanDoIt2 Website: www.ucandoit2.c...
UCanDoIt2 Contact: UCanDoIt2Mike@gmail.com
JeepForum Thread:
www.jeepforum.c....
Facebook Page:
/ projectrowdy
Music
Intro: Alex Skrindo (Alive)
#Dana300 #jeep #jeepcj #lsswap #lsswaptheworld #lsswapc10 #lsswapc10 #diyperformance #ProjectRowdy
Very detailed with great camera angles. Nice job
I appreciate the great feedback. Thank you and enjoy your projects! Mike
Thanks, you make it look easy even if its tricky. also your video about floor panel switch. Will now buy a welding machine and try. great job! Greetings from Mikael in Sweden
Thank you for the feedback Mikael! Hope you are enjoying working on your projects as much as I do. Thank you Sir! Mike
Thank you for the videos.... I am looking at tackling a transfer case rebuild myself
It is relatively straight forward. The only piece that I found that took coordination was the loose bearings, but the vaseline trick worked perfectly. Have fun with yours! Mike
Once again good job sir I learned a lot from your video.
Glad that you enjoyed it. Have fun with your projects!!!! Mike
Excellent video series!
Thank you. Glad your enjoyed it. Have fun with your projects! Mike
This was a great video series. Just the facts we need to know and step by step instructions. Thanks a bunch.
Thanks for the feedback and glad you enjoyed the series. Cheers and best of luck with your projects! Mike
great job
Thank you Robert. I appreciate the feedback. Mike
Great vid👍
Thank you Sir! Mike
awesome, good job!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. Mike
Best "How to" videos ever.
Thank you for the kind words! Mike
Nice job. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Glad you liked it. Hope it helps you with your project. Cheers.
Another piece of the puzzle down! Always enjoy the videos. I want a ride in this monster when your done.
One more shiny part for the shelf, waiting for the coach to call his number!!! Cheers! Mike
Thanks…, very helpfull 👍🏻👍🏻
You are more than welcome. Have fun with your rebuild! Mike.
Excellent video. I'm looking forward to the rest of the build.
Thank you Kevin! Cheers!
The video is great as usual. Thanks Mike for such an informative video. I can't wait to see next one in the series.
Thank you for the feedback Richard. Thank you for following along!!!!
20:00 you don't use sealant on the intermediate shaft front hole. The front hole and the shaft have a slight taper. As you gently hammer/press the shaft into place the taper keeps it from from going through. And it also makes a tight seal. The back hole where the retaining plate and bolt are uses an o-ring because the hole and the shaft are perfectly straight for obvious reasons. Interestingly, you should use anaerobic gel on the o-ring to help lubricate the o-ring as the shaft is pressed. But while using sealant on the front hole won't hurt anything, it's also unnecessary. Probably pushed all of it out due to the taper.
Hey Mike fixing to start my CJ7 finely got done with it. I learn a lot from your Rowdy Proj. Going to start it in the morning win I get up. Can,t. Wait Thanks alot your friend always CJ7-5.3LS. Come on.
William Jones This just made my day! Woke up this morning and while laying in bed started planning my day. I am still panel beating my tub. Excited for you. Glad to know you got it done and will be enjoying it soon. Cheers and have tons of fun! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike hey man still. Working on it. I had a little bad look.on the wireing harness melted one. My connections so I'm going to order me new one got one. For sale . Lol
Great job on the transfer case!
Thank you David !!!!
Nice and clean Mike! Excellent vid..
Thank you Jeff! Glad to see you're moving forward with your Camaro. I have a 68, so I am taking notes... Cheers!
I like when you added a click sound as it was a torque wrench! Lol
Sometimes we have to help our tools a little bit! Haha! Thanks Jim!
Congrats on the transfer case rebuild,,,you did a fantastic job!!! In regards to the question that was posed with the axle swap,,,I do know that there are certain formulas to use for that. Tire size plus gear ratio with effect Rpm’s and cruising speed. But being your running a manual it won’t effect the shifting speeds like if you were running an automatic or electronic trans. Pinion angels are also to be considered. Especially if the vehicle is lifted to remove vibration or premature u-joint wear. A Ford 9 high pinion axle is something to consider or Dana 44. I would consider working with a axle company who specializes in these swaps. But your also very talented in the research and rebuild so I’m thinking you could also do this yourself as well. Either way I know you will do it right. I hope this helps. Good luck and thanks for the videos.
One more thing I forgot to mention,,if you went the route of buying a used axle,,obviously you would have to relocate the spring perches. And reweld them in the correct location for your Jeep and at that time you could set the pinion angle. Good luck Mike!!
I hope that I am not making a mistake. I plan to do as little to my current axles and get it running initially as is. I will clean them up a little and change the Gear Oil. When the dust settles, I would then begin the research and planning for an axle swap. The hurdle in my mind right now is finding a Passenger Side Pumpkin axle for the front. Definitely something on my mind. Definitely something to tackle. Another viewer suggested a Ford 8.8. Looks like some fun additional research is in order. Thank you Bobby! I love getting suggestions and things that I should consider. Cheers to you!!!!!!
If you get time ,,,check out on RUclips,,,BleepinJeep. The title of the video is “ How to choose your gear ratio”. I found it educational and informative. Also,,,I believe but I might be wrong,,but I think the Wagooner up to 1986 has the narrow track axle with the passenger side pumpkin. I think they used Dana 44s. And I think they were 2 inches longer than a stock Cj. But hopefully this will point you in the right direction. Have fun and enjoy Rowdy.
Excellent... I had watched that video about a year ago, and just watched it again. When I do change my axles, I do want to migrate to a wider track. According to my research notes, my current Narrow Track is 50.0" wide and the Jeep Wide Track axles are 54.5". I would be looking for something in the 54.5" range. The Gearing is going to be an interesting exercise. My Engine changed (increase in 180HP), Transmission changed, and my Tire size will change (from 31 to 33). I believe I and just going to have to put it together and see if I like the ratio and go from there.
I did just run across in my Notes, that another Viewer once mentioned that he has the 5.3 Engine, AX15 and changed to 4.10 gears and is very happy.
Very nice job! Question: do you think the yoke splines need sealer on them to prevent oil seepage? I have seen other videos that used anaerobic sealer on the splines. Thank you!
@@cjc2936 Yes, I think anaerobic sealer is a great idea for the reason you mentioned. It will provide a great seal and can be cleaned up if disassembly is required. Cheers! Mike.
Glad to see to the transfer case all back together and you didn't find anything broken inside.
Have you thought about twin sticking the D300?
Ahhh! I forgot to discuss this at the end of the video... To be honest it is an easy mod to do... I just do not see the point in it. I assume that I could hook up the front axle and do a Front Wheel Dig !?!?! Not sure what that does for me. I would do it once and then most likely, never again. Could you explain any good benefits? What am I missing? Cheers.... Mike!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Twin stick does let you have front axle low, it also helps eliminate the issue that Dana 300 seems to have sometimes, jumping out of gear. You'll probably won't have that problem because you rebuilt it and tighten things up.
Now, I've blown a rear driveshaft U-joint at the axle and if I kept it in 4 wheel drive the driveshaft would of been flopping around everywhere. Luckily I was able to put it in front axle low and get to a spot to remove the driveshaft. I've also done this on the street, a mile from the house, when I had no tools with me and no way to remove the rear driveshaft.
You also get rear axle low but the front axle low does give you the ability to do a front dig which helps you make a tighter turn. I thought that I wouldn't use it that often myself but turns out I use it 1-2 times a year at the minimum. Once you use it, you'll see the opportunities to use it again.
If you decide to get a twin stick go with JB Custom Fabrication. They are stainless steel and comes with everything you'll need and are a solid design
jb-custom-fabrication.myshopify.com/collections/jeep-stainless-steel-twin-stick-shifters/products/jeep-d-300-stainless-steel-twin-stick-shifter
Thanks for the follow-up. I think I have so many other things that I have to financially plan for. This would be something that I could add down the road. Again, thanks for the suggestion. Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Yep, very easy to do after everything else is all done.
What yoke did you add for the rear output/double Cardon driveshaft? Great work.
It is a new Yoke that will support a double Cardon U-joint. That is the direction for this. I was tracking every expense of this project and lost the file. Sorry, but I cannot honestly remember where it came from. Mike
Got mine from Tom Woods. He also built the new driveshaft.
Even though I've got a couple of 231 cases laying around, I've thought about the old Dana 300 as well (gear driven - no chain). The one 231 case came off the Jeep and I was gonna rebuild it and slap it back in rather than spend more coin. Btw.....regarding the axle comments below.......if you locate a 96' to 2001 Ford Explorer with a D2 door code for the rear axle, it's a 4:10 limited slip 8.8. From what I understand they came on the higher end Eddie Bauer Explorers. A D4 or L73 door code would still be limited slip but the gearing would be 3:73's. Any other axle door codes that started in the forties.....i.e.; 41, 42, 43, 44, etc.....would be open diff. The Explorer 8.8 is approx. 1 1/2 inches shorter overall than the stock axle but most put at least 1" wheel spacers on to gain the 1/2 inch back plus......a very common swap like the LS. Besides all that, you get rear disc brakes as well.....a big plus.
Excellent! Thanks for the Rear End notes. I will add them to my OneNote Catalog. My initial intent will be to run my stock axles to get my project complete and then begin to investigate and plan an axle swap. Thanks again... Mike!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Mike......yep, all good. I think for everyday driving and a bit of mudding here & there, the stock axles would probably be fine with the LS. Not knowing what the CJ's came stock with I don't know, but if they were the lighter variety it might be iffy. Like you, I'm probably going to leave the front stock for a bit while I hunt for a stouter axle with hub lockouts.....older 60's or 70's more than likely. My toss up right now for a rear is gearing......more for the road than the trail. With the LS, AX15 and tire size, I'll have to do some calculations.....I want to enjoy driving it but not have to marry into a Saudi family to afford it lol....
@@bobmcelver1484 I know that my axles (inside the axle housing) is my weak link. I'm not making a race Jeep. It will go off road, but I am more interested in trail riding and enjoying the outdoors. Mostly a street Jeep. I will have to explain all of this very well in the video where I illustrate me putting back in the Stock Axles. It will be Temporary. They are not hard to swap out at a later date. I want to be able to focus on that research when it comes time. I have already added the information that you provided to my notes. Thank you again. When you get your gearing calculated or otherwise figured out, please share. That is one thing that I even mentioned in the introduction video of this build, that with a changed Engine (HP+), changed Trans, and changed Transfer Case, I was probably going to need new gearing, but wont know until we are rolling. Cheers!!! Mike
You vids have been a huge help in my build. Knowing you run the LS platform, what did you run for a VSS? I’m currently running a SM465, NWF crawlbox into a dana300. Ive tried using the Dakota digital speed imulator but works only for a few months the gear oil gets to the electrical component and it’ll fail. Haven’t been able to find a solid answer and was maybe hoping you would have some insight!
To be honest... I haven't come to that point. Current plan is to continue to run my mechanical speedo and continue to drive it with the cable from the Dana 300. I have read about an interface (box) that connects inline that I was planning to look into when I became closer to that point. There are a few reason for running VSS with a manual transmission... In MY case, I may not run it at all. Cheers... Mike
What's next and when do you expect your next video? I'm addicted.
I have some small fabrication for the Tub to complete the inside, then I will get that Primed and I'm eager to the get the Tub removed and start wokring on the bottom side. Cheers and thanks for following along. A short break so that you can go get some more popcorn! Cheers!
Did you use all new hardware or just clean up the old? If all new, where did you get it?
I purchased a master rebuild kit which comes with all new bearings, seals and gaskets. Amazon.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thanks for fast reply! What about all the bolts?
Quick question. Your ls3 water pump, is it Corvette spacing. Or the l99 truck spacing? Becuase I have a ls1 harmonic balancer and if I can use a ls3 waterpump with the truck accessories that would save me some money.
Dumpedlings not sure if it is Corvette spacing but it is a single width smooth pulley and it aligns with all the Vortec assessories.
And you have a stock truck style harmonic balancer?
@@dumpedlings4278 I re-installed the original Harmonic Balancer. Just cleaned it up and painted it. Cheers!
Just curious, with this new powertrain are you considering a Ford 8.8 rear axle swap? Not sure what axle you currently have in the CJ, but it needs to be able to handle the LM7 power.
My current plan is to stay with the current rear axle... Now that is going to raise many eyebrows. This will be temporary. I want to get it running and on the road. The first upgrade will be a rear end swap. None of the current enhancements should take me in a direction that will not support that swap in the future. To be honest, I will probably need to study that and consult with someone. I currently have the AMC20 Narrow Trac axles. The future swap will also allow me to widen the stance which is highly desired. Do you have any suggestions?
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I found this video series very useful. ruclips.net/video/mayYpK_aPgM/видео.html
I believe the AMC 20 narrow track has a WMS of 50.5 inches - might double check me on that. If you follow the linked video procedure you will end up with a Ford Explorer 8.8 with a WMS of 56 5/8".
I have seen that guy's videos before, but not that one. Seems like an easy process to clean off all brackets and prep that for installation. What could I do for the front axle. Remember, my pumpkin is on the Passenger side.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike 1981.5 and up to 1986 CJ wide track Dana 30 would work nicely with the narrowed Explorer 8.8. This is a passenger drop axle with a a width of 56 inches. The 8.8 axle flanges and rotors can be drilled for 5 on 5.5" to match. That would be the least expensive DIY route in my opinion. Another option is to have someone like East Coast Gear Supply build you a front axle to your specs. You'll pay for it, but it would be exactly what you want. eastcoastgearsupply.com/
Excellent... I have added your above text to my Research Notes. I have another viewer here suggesting a Ford 9 inch. We will have to see. Cheers to you!!!!
Sure! I just have a problem with the one set screw, tried everything but won't budge, last thing I wanna do is strip it down there! Any ideas?
Place the correct Allen tool into the screw and “shock” it with a slight hammer blow. Also add a penetrating oil
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I even put a small flame to it, still nothing. Will try again this morning, it went in so it has to come out right? Lol
@UCanDoIt2Mike a friend of mine has a tool that turns the head on impact with the hammer. Should solve it🙏