Treating Wood Fence Posts - The old Timers Way
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- Опубликовано: 6 ноя 2016
- In this video I show how the old timers use to treat/protect fence posts from rotting. They would reuse or as we say today re-purpose old motor oil.
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at last, someone who knows what he's talking about. Fantastic
Hahahahahahahahahaha.
Granddad did the same basic techniques on his farm fences with the added action of drilling a hole at an angle to the center of the post about 3" or so above the ground and making a wood plug. He would then fill the the whole with the oil mixture and then refilling every year or so. He also typically buried his post almost as deep as they were tall with no concrete. He put the first posts in over 100 years ago... we have never had to replace a post.
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That's awesome. I've learned a lot in this comments section.
Very much appreciate your comment. We are in Australia and around 6 years ago I did a massive line of fence posts (over 100) that I sunk 4ft into the ground and tamped and compacted in... At the time I didn't cover the post in the oil and diesel mix like I should have and even though that are the hardest wood other than Acacia (Australian Grey Iron Bark) I still worry about wood rot. I had the same idea that putting a small drill hole into the center of each 4x4 post about 4" above the ground and filling it with the mix once every few months would stop any rot that was already occurring. Really appreciate you confirming that the thought I came to was the right one.
Awesome video. My dad told me about asphalt, and how it protects wood from moisture. I had never heard of that, but like you said, old timers had been doing it for a long time, and their knowledge is gold.
Ary M very true :)
Finally a guy with trial and error... in the long run you save because of your video! Thanks for taking the time to share the information👍
We were always told to put a rock at the bottom of the hole. This way water could seep out of the post. The bottom of the post would not be touching the ground.
a few inches of gravel is better, you can get an even sitting then
@@trbr6705 Nah that's stupid, the best thing is to coat the hole in clay so no water can come up from underneath the ground, then stick the exposed wood right into the clay. Then put dead leaves and other assorted mulch around the fence post.
The part about leaves and mulch is a terrible idea. That just holds the moisture in around the wood much much longer. The wood takes forever to dry out. Why do you think it’s so important to take your leaves out from around your sheds and out builds instead of letting them build up around the sides? It will rot them out!
@Happy McJoyJoy I don't think James T Kirk caught it.
@@James_T_Kirk_1701 No that's just not true, what you want to do is seal the hole and put as much organic waste as possible. Stuff like leaves and mulch will hold water, keeping it off the pole. Gravel doesn't hold water, so don't put it at the bottom.
Thanks for posting. I’m a Hawaiian living on one of the smaller islands, and the old-timers here would use Kiawe (Algoroba) tree fenceposts and would leave the cut posts in sea water for a week or so before setting them in the ground. A lot of those posts still exist after 75-100 yrs. in the ground. This is obviously a faster method and makes sense to me. Kinda like all the old creosote utility poles you see all around the U.S.
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Sea water, huh? That's awesome. Mahalo.
We just bought a house in the sticks in Florida and are moving out of California. I'm going to fence the property as part of the renovation. I'm so glad I found this video. Funny thing is I'm paking my house now and one of the last things I was going to deal with is a bunch of used oil I was going to take to the auto parts store. I'm taking it with me now. Old school is the best. Thank you Pete B.
I used railroad ties for my gate post at the front of the property set in gravel. 25 years later they are still standing strong. Gotta love those RR ties.
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I agree!
I also think a lot of the lumber used 100 years ago was slow growth virgin cut timber with tight grain, much of today's lumber is grown fast and has looser grain, its not as strong or rot resistant.
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Michael G. Gartman your close !!, kinda,,,
Yes! Just look at the grain on most 4x4's. The growth rings can be up to 1/2" apart, with all that soft wood area no wonder they rot so quickly
You're absolutely right
Michael G. Gartman The main reason fence post lasted years ago is because WE used locust trees for for post, as simple as that none of this other BS
4:55 My grandpa was telling me back in the 30s that they would drill a diagonal hole half way in the pole, 3 inches above the ground line, every 3 years they would take an oil can filled turpentine and linseed oil, go to each one of the poles and give it for 5 squirts, then they would plug the hole with wooden plug, this will keep the bugs and water rot from the base of the the pole support
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Still done today. This is done on utility poles with a somewhat different blend of juices.
Amazing tip.
I've been researching how to prevent my 4x4 posts from rotting, and this is the method I'm using.
It's available, it's not expensive and it seems hard to mess up.
Thank you for this video!
I had problems with 4" round posts (treated and sold as fencing) rotting off at grade after 1 year, so I went to my dad's way of treating them. Fill a couple of 55 gallon drums quarter to half full of diesel and add old motor oil as you get it. Stick the new posts into the mixture and let them soak until you need them. I have had posts treated this way in the fence line for over 20 years now and no sign of rot. If your barrels get water in them use a scoop to get as much out as you can or take a brush and make sure to apply the oil/diesel mixture above the barrel rim level on the post so any standing water doesn't start rotting the post.
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If your barrel got some water in, water is heavier than oil or diesel and it will be at the bottom.
I used this technique on an fence in 1976, some posts are standing today!
@@torpex9126 ; That’s amazing.
They still do this old method in old Mexico and it works they really use it for every thing they don't let nothing to waist.
I set my posts upright in a bucket of diesel/oil mix for several days. Just brushing the ends won't get enough up into the wood fibers. Let the wood dry as long as you can before doing it.
Great video Pete. Thanks for posting.
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Do you tar as well?
@@jjjohn5914 - I don't but it may work. My thoughts are that tar would allow water to get trapped underneath and provide conditions for rot. I very well could be wrong though.
I had ranchers and farmers, basically my customers, come in and collect old diesel eng oil when they were putting in posts. From what i remember, they soaked the whole post for days ? Weeks ? Anyway, they said it worked best for them. Thry would know.
Great post prep!! When setting the post dig your hole 3-4” deeper than you need. Tamp in at least 3” of gravel for drainage. If using concrete do not pour it in wet. Put it in dry. Tamp it down until post is solid. The moisture in the ground will cure the concrete. The post will last for a long time!!
Dry set concrete loses a couple thousand psi strength.
@@ContentRemoved___ not parking on it, just trying set a level post 😂
Great video.. You are very correct in your thinking.. Using the method you showed, a post will last a very long time...
Thank you
Great information. Now I know why my grandparents use to do this. Their homesteads have fences that are still there because of this method. I learned it as a child, but I couldn't remember what she used. I'm almost 54 and they had started it in the1930's. Family is still there, just no longer homesteading. It's the younger generation living the with a bunch of dogs.
I don't homestead in a big way, I'm collecting supplies to store in my garage for starting a homestead. Tools, poultry fencing, imperfect cuts of barnwood and even tin and wood from torn down sheds. I had a beautiful garden this spring and summer, then I fell about 5ft from a loft bed with the studio area underneath. My dream bed got me in one heck of a predicament. My left leg decided it wasn't going to work when in starting down the first rungs on the ladder and basically held on as i was sliding down the corner pole and couldn't hold on any more an learned on my side, on top of my sewing machine carry case. It required 911 to come get me. It wasn't funny then, but I wish I had caught it on my camera. I tell people, " my life is a RUclips series. Lol I'd go viral and be making $$$$ lol. I might just do that. Anyways, my disc between lumbar 4 and 5 exploded and I am down for 6 months. my garden suffered mid ways thru the summer because the pain was to bad after emergency surgery due to a blood clot. They were able to medicate with blood thinners.
Hopefully next year will be better. We got about 50 cucumbers . 200 jalapenos,
10 beefsteak tomatoes were huge. A couple hundred cherry tomatoes, and about 25 yellow crook neck squash. Our watermelon was about 1/4 grown, when someone stole it right out of my garden. I'm thinking meter readers. They are the only ones with access. Well I hope it was bitter and made them have a bit of a tummy ache and what that all entails. Lol I have to grow it in a cage next year. And be filming, a day in the life of homestead dreamer. Hence the name
DREAMERS HOMESTEAD. MAYBE NEXT YEAR MY DREAM WILL HAPPEN. TAKE CARE AND
GOD BLESS
DEB
Hope you're okay now, homesteading is awesome but a lot of work. I would never go back to living in the city or suburbia if I can help it. Keep working towards your dream and pray about it. God does not want us in the big cities, but in the country where we can cultivate the land and raise families away from the influences of the cities. Thanks and God bless
Me and my brother in law are replacing his fence this spring and i am gonna try that to weatherproof them !
Next video please :D
I have two videos that I used these posts in. One is where I replaced my fence and the other I used to build a dog kennel with. This is my country fence video ruclips.net/video/sIjKRpvEKfs/видео.html and this is my dog kennel video ruclips.net/video/PDQu4k9Kxsc/видео.html Thanks for watching.
Great video. Much appreciation for the practical, tried and true methods. I'm repairing, repainting a white wooden picket fence. I'm going to add a third railing, (2 by 4), at ground level to align and stabilize the pickets and I think your technique applied to the added railing would serve nicely.The railing will be in contact with the ground, maybe even eventually beneath it. I'm thinking that I'll follow your technique to the letter, except in my case I'm uncertain and undecided about whether or not I should go ahead and coat all sides of the railing with asphalt, making it virtually impermeable, since I don't have to worry about forming any pockets or water traps.Thanks for your help.
Thank you
Love this video!!!! I have also been told to use an oil base paint on the bottom part of the post the goes into the ground. I know wooden power lines and telephone poles have creosote on the bottom portion.
Worth watching every second... Badass 👍
I've got a couple of sheds that I built back in the 80's and I used white oak posts on both. When I change oil in my truck or my wife's car or my tractor I place the old oil filter upside down beside a post and let it drain. All the posts are still solid.
rclaws That's awesome, thanks for sharing that.
Another trick. Put a soup can on top with a larger can over it.
Lift off can fill It . It will seep out from where the screws or nails are at. Pretty simple.
Just goes to show how smart the old folks are. Great vlog
Thanks 👍
This is EXACTLY what i needed! Thank you!!!!!!!
I will be doing this rather than throwing my old oil away. Thanks!
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This guy knows what he’s talking about. We just put tar around the bottom, not on the bottom. This will make the post last a long time.
Thanks for the info, I'm going to keep all this in mind when I make my first fence in a couple days
Just saw your video. Thanks for sharing. Great knowledge. Be blessed.
Glad it was helpful!
Great use for used engine oil. I rustproof all my cars with it, about once a year. So, it drips a bit on the road, but like you say, asphalt is petroleum-based.
Found this while lookong to preserve my workbench.
thanks - weve been tarring but wondered about coating the bottom ends! 2-3 inches of stone gravel or play sand before back filling / pouring concrete makes a big difference in bottom drainage
Appsolutly correct about oil, diesel, grease turning into fertilizer. Have a certain place where I pressure wash fifthy, greasy, oily equipment. I'm always amazed how the grass flourishes in that spot!
"Of course, check your local laws."
Then go ahead and do what you want anyway :D
Weaponized Memes agreed
20 years in Folsom prison in California.
In OR creosote is banned. "Treated" posts do not last, neither the green nor brown. Yet, in the cities they pave at least a square mile of asphalt per day on roads, and parking lots with no 2nd thoughts. Not to mention tons of exhaust from commuter traffic. Hypocracy.
Were the posts that rotted away in 6 yrs treated with anything?
Nah, I do whatever I want then I check the local laws.💪
Oil is also great for rustproofing your car, especially in areas that get road salt in the winter. Generally i use bar and chain, because it holds to the metal a little better. My 1994 F150 has its share of wear and tear, but the frame is solid!
Thanks for sharing! Good info. Can use the motor oil and fuel for concrete forms also. I even use to seal my outdoors wooden workbenches... just the oil on those though. I like some of the comment'ers ideas also with soaking in barrels or PVC pipes also. The PVC pipe is a great idea for longer posts. Thinking might work like a wick though and maybe trying with just a 5 gallon bucket to see how performs.
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Thanks,Great information will use it on my next project.
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Henry's 208 roof patch works well too. Just smear it on with a stick.
And I was just about to turn in some old motor oil. Thanks!!!
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lol.....right! I turned in 5 5 gallons the other day, but still have 4 quarts sitting around that I'm clearly going to hold on to now. I was looking at these post sleeves and those things are $12-$15 a piece and just a 4 inch piece of plastic that won't even protect from bugs. I'm SOOOOOOOO glad that I stumbled on this. I'm actually excited to get to work on this fence project now!
I’m glad I just watched your video Pete. I've already dug my holes and put concrete in the bottom of them, I will be putting about an inch of bluemetal around the posts before I concrete them in place! I put concrete in the bottom of the holes so the posts had something solid and level to sit on, I never would have thought that the moisture would still get into the wood and rot it. I have some bitumen paint to treat the ends that will be buried, but like you have mentioned I won't be painting the ends. Thanks for your video 👍
You're welcome I'm glad the video helped you out.
So far from everything I've seen your way is the best. I only tarred mine and it lasted for years but your way with coating them first is even better. Only thing I would add is used DIESEL oil is even better but might show darker.
I also think you CAN coat the bottom with tar. At least I did and after 10 years they were fine when I had to dig a few up. Great video.
Thank you
20 years ago I put up a privacy fence around our pool, used treated poles, I added a foot of gravel, then concrete followed up with dirt from the hole, still nice and strong and standing.
Yep that's good, you gave a way for the water that seeps in between the wood and concrete to get out into the gravel and not get stuck there like a post in just concrete.
I wouldn't recommend pouring diesel / motor oil on the ground, but brushed into the posts and left to dry before installation doesn't seem too bad, especially if the part that contacts the ground is coated with the asphalt sealant, and likely encased in concrete. Still, there's always that one neighbor who'd call Code Enforcement or the EPA on you, so discretion is called for, as in, work in the backyard, not the driveway.
Don’t tell your neighbor!
It’s ok. They both come from the ground and back they shall go!
@@justinphillips6136 Yeah, but it doesn't come out refined.
@@iceebalboa3177 It's not "great," but the consequence of trace amounts of motor oil is WAY overblown. Any chainsaw is flinging chain oil all over the place, and any 2-stroke engine belches out about half that oil unburned.
The only thing that's a major no-no is to flush it down the commode, because sewage treatment does nothing to it, and it winds up straight in the river. This is a significantly better outcome than doing that!
Thank you for sharing, very good info.
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Thank you for this very helpful video.
Here in the UK we were forced to stop using traditional creosote.. it was banned a few years ago. So I was doing what the government wanted me to do and let my fences and sheds rot away by coating them in a wax based paint that is as good as wrapping timber in clingfilm .. basically its crap and rotting fences leads to more trees to cut down etc.. So I made a batch of 60% old engine oil all mixed together with 30% red diesel and the rest was around 10% Bitumen paint.. it soaks into the timber exceptionally good and water just beads up and rolls off ! .. You can throw a bit of red oil based gloss paint into the mix and it makes it a nice chestnut or dark mahogany colour and I once read somewhere that coal dust, salt and chimney soot makes an excellent ingredient to throw into the mix .. its cheap enough to make too..
I think here they still use creosote on utility poles or at least a petroleum based product. I have about seven power line poles and they are covered in a black soot. That's a really good idea to add a small amount of oil based paint to the mix. Thanks for the comment and ideas.
i do the same i like the idea of soot etc
I was talking to a utility guy recently about that and he said that they made them stop using creosote a good while back, not sure what they replaced it with. I used to work for Osmose and that's what we used then. We would dig around the pole about 2' deep and goop on the creosote which looked greenish. Then we would wrap a paper around the treated part and then fill it back in. That was the late eighties. The creosote would blister you if you got it on you which was hard not to do. I didn't last long at that job. Didn't realize it until just now but you can order Osmose's product! www.osmose.com/documents/MP500-EXT%20product%20bulletin.pdf
that sounds more like what I have also heard how to make home made creosote (burnt/used engine oil 40%, diesel fuel 40%, roof tar 20% and 1 cup per gal. of salt and soot/ wood ash)
doing it for years great job
If doing this in California, they'll immediately repel down from helicopters, taze you, then send you to prison for 30 years.
😂...Libtards!
@Big Bill O'Reilly whats wrong lefty? you must be turned on by golden showers.
@Big Bill O'Reilly Only after they grabed me by the dick trump 2020. Go and live in another country like Venezuela socialist you'll see your Utopia for what it realy is. The the definition of insanity is doing something over and over again expecting a different result.
Sounds like something California would do. Lol
Since the majority of America's dumbasses live in California..., wouldn't it be awesome if the entire state actually did fall into the Pacific Ocean! Hmmmm, let the dreams roll in.
Thanks for sharing 💪 I agree about the concrete way to set the post
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Thanks brother I'm redoing our barbed wire fence bcuz it was all wonky deff using this technique.
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Thank you I was telling my coworkers about this method and no one believed me
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Charring is much easier. My question is, does it work and for how long?. I always put gravel in the bottom of the hole before the post goes in whether I use concrete or gravel to support it. This allows for drainage.
Remember a old Buddy had done a pine 2x4 picknick table look great after 20 years out in Ohio weather year round.
Thanks it works
Found out even ground contact pressure-treated lumber will rot.
I'm going to do the oil diesel treatment to my landscape timbers. Thanks for the information.
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Yes, I've found that out, too. In the last decade or two (I think) the formula for the pressure treating chemical was changed. It seems to me that the new formula doesn't work as well. I built a spec house and used pressure-treated four-by-fours for fence posts. Within a year or two, some had rotted so badly I could simply push them over and break them off at ground level with almost no effort. Also, the new formula is a lot more corrosive to metal.
Use gravel the first 3 inches to promote drainage, dirt tend to soak up water and cases rot...
Think the dirt sucking up the water pulls it away from the post. then the dirt dries out faster than the post. Use roofing tar with asphalt on the part in the ground to six inches up.
This method good for untreated wood as well? Great video, thanks!
Yes, it will make it last much longer.
Great Video Bud!
I’ve also had good luck treating vertical wood with anchor seal (original) which is an emulsified wax. Good for planter boxes. Tar is definitely better for below grade.
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I treat my existing fence and pole building posts (old telephone poles) with my old engine oil. I use a piece of metal to sort of act like a funnel around a post, and pour in some oil/diesel mix, to soak down into and around the area to kill anything causing rot. Also re-apply to the top of posts too.
Should be noted, most rot begins very close to the surface, so that's the focused location for treatment.
One last comment go to your local oil change place and they'll probably sale you a barrel for about ten bucks and fill it is about 20 25 gallons of free oil, used of course that came from vehicles and then just cut the top out with a grinder, air chisel, or simply with a hatchet and a hammer. Take your boards, post or whatever you want to treat and just stand them on their end in the barrel and fill the barrel up and the oil will rise from halfway up to the three quarter mark or even close to full and let them stand for a few days or week or month as long as you like until you need to use them. And I should like you for a very long long time!
Thank you Pete! Very helpful for me!
Glad it was helpful!
This is how I do my post too, no concrete, concrete is used when you want the friction to keep the post from sinking in loose material. My posts last just as long as any store bought treated posts. Oil comes from the ground so it won’t harm anything. You are absolutely correct the microbe’s will clean it up over time.
I always wondered if a wrap of tarpaper would help. At least in terms of a couple more years
we put them in a fifty five gallon drum and put creosote and diesel and crankcase oil let soak for a week
John Goodwin That's a real good way of treating them. Thanks
My grandfather kept a 55 gallon drum full of posts soaking in the same mix as you. when he needed a post or two he had them ready.
John Goodwin I
John Goodwin 🔦
Take motor oil put in pvc tube longer than post. Place post in tube put a cap on it. Let sit for days weeks etc. As long as you can.
I was reading a old black and white article. Said he had post 80 years old
Did this all the time in the 70's as a kid on the property. Thought about that today, as I went to the recycler with the oil that I changed in the Subaru today. Time, and practices march onwards..
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Thanks Pete a million, Will let you know when Finished maybe in a couple of weeks, Have to let Timbers dry First and then do The OLD TIMERS WAY !! Thanks again Pete !
Pollution is a function of degree; dumping gallons of oil where it can penetrate into streams or ground water is bad, but as the amount of oil is small, already soaking into the wood, and not being actively washed off, this is simply not a real problem of contamination. Doubling the rate of post replacements nationwide due to early rot seems more of an issue with lumber supplies.
Thank you, I agree 100%
Yup. They'd rather clear out an entire forest due to the throw away mentality. Keep replacing it! Over & over again
But the oil is only returning to the earth where it came from.
Oh please. It came out of the ground why the hell can't it go back in?
@@austin3626 it's not the best due to the added carcinogens, and THAT goes back in the earth where it leaches into groundwater and thus back into our systems.
Making wood last longer is better for the environment, fewer trees are cut down. Win for the environment and property owner.
Nope
Treated posts in nz agriculture is a environmental nightmare and has poisoned the ground water is some areas particularly vine yards or any crop that needs lots of posts. They act like poison wicks
Todd. Used a 8 inch piece of plastic pipe about 3 foot long plugged on one end. Stand it up. Put in post then pour in diesel and old oil. Leave for a couple days. The only problem is this takes a lot of time. Your method is way faster. . Thank you for a great vid.
Great idea 👍
Good video, will be using this method this year with a few Cattle Panel Greenhouses going up. Thank you... (From: Michigan)
Long time ago we used linseed oil and petroleum for lamps, 50:50, on that way linseed oil will penetrate deep into wood and petroleum will evaporate.
I still burn my posts and then engine oil above. Works like a charm and quicker
Flashy Paws wow you’re special if you’re the only one who knows what he’s talking about.
Great continuity I learned with you to keep this old Timers practice alive. Thank you ! But questions time: Is Acrylic paint okay to use over the oil treated wood sometime AFTER treating the posts? I saw you recommended a couple days after the oil diesel mix sets into the wood. I can't see a problems using a BEHR Waterproofing Sealing acrylic; but just wanted to get a recommendation.
your right ! i learned. thru the experience !! great video !
you could mention that the old timers had old grown western cedar or redwood.. these were naturally rot resistant, tight grained perfect wood. They cut it all, most of it was wasted or used for crappy products at the time... it's gone now. maybe 0.5 % of it is left in parks and if some had their way they would cut all that.
black locust is rot resistant too. Or use concrete posts
If the soil you put the post in has allot in it,Moisture will destroy the post no matter what you do. The soil will be wet for long periods and the post will wick that moisture. After replacing a fence in my yard twice in 7 years I started soaking the bottom of the posts in a 50/50 mix of linseed oil and turpentine after driveing in a few nails along the bottom and then pulling them out. The mix soaks in easier threw the nail holes. I put 6" plastic pipe in the hole and then the post and poured concrete in and around both. The plastic slows the migration of ground water and allows the drainage to go into the ground. The new fence is 10 years old and as strong as when I built it. Allot of work but seems to have done the job.
I'm going to be placing some posts to build a retaining wall and I was thinking exactly the same... the problem with all the ideas to increase durability of ground contact pressure treated wood it's that all try to keep moisture away from the wood using oil based compounds as a way to waterproof the material but not many cover physical barriers! the idea of using concrete on the post don't have anything to do with protecting against moisture but it's to increase estructural strength on the build itself increasing the total footing of the post, if you use a PVC pipe as sleeve to the concrete footing combined with a couple of layers of asphalt material to the post you will reduce the amount of water that the wood will wick from the soil
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Good Job
EFD260G; How interesting, I live on an Island In Washington State. Now we all know that in Wa. it rain's at least 9 months out of the year and on an Island it's not only WET but we also have salt water wet to deal with, talk about soggy!!! Allot of the old time farmers have fence posts that are 70 or more years old. Yep motor oil and creosote. I'm not sure what happen in your yard, but I can't imagine it any wetter than on the islands in the pacific N.W of Washington State. I enjoyed reding your post thanks God bless.
As a informative video it did the job many thanks.
If you want to cement your post in the ground use the Pvc post sleeves used on decks but treat the post with oil.
I put this same mix on my trailer deck. A pump up sprayer is a lot easier and quicker. Also, I never could figure how you could contaminate the ground with what came out of the ground.
@Big Bill O'Reilly We don't have any, your hero Hillary gave it to Ukraine.
Before they had treated lumber, my grandfather used to mop the floor of his cattle trailer with used oil. It’s never rotted. Even after sitting out in the field unused for 40 years
Great video. Thanks, learned a ton.
Johl Tidgwell 👍
Tore out a bridge and replaced it with concrete. Now I have a pickup truck loaded with 1x6 deck boards and 2x6's. Starting today, will pull the thousands of nails, power wash and do the treatment you suggest. I can't imagine number of raised beds I'll get from this reclaimed, treated lumber. With lumber prices 180% higher than it was a year ago, cant fathom what this huge load would cost today. Great video my friend! Keep'em coming.
You're using this method for the raised beds wood walls? I was worried it would poison the vegetables or fruits? I'm thinking of doing this on a concrete set post for a kiwi trellis but I was 1-worried the concrete wouldn't stick to the treated wood 2- just thought could poison the fruit or add something dangerous to eat into it.. I'll have to watch it again, I guess if you put roof patch or something over the area where the post and concrete meet that could seal the gap at ground level
@@williamwallace1745 hoping the roof patch will will set up hard(ish) and flash off any distillates before using them. As far as anything leaching into the soil, would think "treated" lumber would be worse??? Worth a shot, I guess.
@@jayfromtexas6718 well the new treated lumber uses a copper based preservative instead of the arsenic based preservative they used before 2004.. The new stuff is alot safer
@@williamwallace1745 that gets me back to buying new lumber.
When I set a wooden post I use about 4 inches of gravel first. That's the best way for water to drain out.
Or the best way to insure the post sits in an underground puddle.
@@dontblameme6328 Thats the whole point of gravel... to let the water drain away from the post so it wont sit in water.
How's it going to contaminate the ground when it came from the ground?
That's what I always wondered. We all put oil back in the ground. You own a car, it gets old, seals fail & leak oil...in the ground.
Excellent instruction.
After the oil soaks into the wood and dries, it becomes inert. Like resin boat hulls. That goes for splatters on the ground to. Grass always grows back through an oil patch on the lawn. Thanks for the video. I will be treating new posts this way.
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I coat the buried part of my posts with roof tar before I put them in the ground to about 2" above the ground. You note to not coat the bottom of the post but I coat the bottom of the post otherwise the end grain can wick water up from the ground constantly. The old stick a celery stick in colored water trick they teach you in elementary has application here. You say you would make a cup that holds water, but not really as water will work its way up the post and dry out. Also, the roof tar shouldn't allow water behind it in any case.
Yeah good points, but I don't do the bottom end because some of the posts have open splits or cracks that the water can go down and I wanted to make sure it's able to get out from the bottom eventually. And yes the wood will wick the water up and also out when the ground dries up.
If you can figure out which way capillary action goes, you can plant the post upside down and the structure of the wood should push water down the post... Medieval engineers knew this when building bridges over water... The only problem is finding which end of the post is up... And down.
Have about 4" of gravel on the bottom to help the moisture wick away from he bottom of the fence.
@Dav Free, big end down, skinny end up.
@Adolf Hitler Thanks, I was thinking pilings and not posts.
That oil came out of the ground to start with.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge ! My neighbor just told me this trick after I mentioned to him I was thinking or buying these new post wraps I saw for a fence I’m installing which are essentially just a plastic bag heat shrank onto post. Wonder if liquid rubber people use on boats would work similarly
Great! thanks for the tips!
Why scrutinize his grammar, when the point is treating the wood?
....even when targeting nukes, neatness counts.
Do this to your wooded trailer floors. It is better to do this on a warm sunny day, the oil soaks up in the wood floor better.
works well for trailerbeds
would be slippery when wet, no?
@@rf4215 It can, but the water usually just beads up on it. If you over-saturated the wood with the oil it definitely can make it slick.
@@rf4215 the oil tends to come to tge surface when it rains ans yes it gets a little slippery. Not any more noticeable than untreated wood imho
Thank you VERY MUCH for the video and info. Just wanted to throw in a couple of changes I'll be making. Living in Florida, I've seen many a rotting post (typically in concrete), and every single one I've seen was rotting within 1 foot of the surface, typically just beneath the soil. Makes sense, since that's where the prime amount of water and oxygen is for microbes. As for my changes:
1. I'll be using unused motor oil. I happen to have some odd-viscosity motor oils lying around that I won't be using for oil changes, so that's perfect, but if I didn't have those I'd still use new motor oil, which is relatively cheap for this project. Used motor oil has heavy metals in it, which is quite carcinogenic, and I don't want that in my soil. That is not the case with fresh oil.
2. I'm not concerned about the very end rotting, as I just haven't witnessed that happening; even if it did, the post would presumably still be mostly functional for many years after. So with the asphalt, I'll just be coating 6" above the ground, as you did, and stopping 12-18" below the ground surface. Will save a little time and $.
Thanks again, and for others reading this, to long-lived fence/post projects!
Thank very much sir i will be using your technique
Is ashfault the same thing as asphalt?
Sorry, but we all have some type of accent.
Yes, there are many accents and yours seems pretty neutral . I my comment was about the mispronunciation. Like when someone says ax, vs. ask.
Well Trump has been a democrat for most of his life, so that's expected.
you guys BS has nothing to do with this.Grow up
HuckFinn
Hey do we have to drag politics into his video . How about being respectful
My granddad put his posts in a bucket of creosote, soaked for a day. Seemed to work.
My dad did the same thing.
Did he coat the whole post or just the bottom?
@@lovernotfighter Just the bottom. Put it in a coffee can or similar and fill the can with creosote. Let it stand for 2 or 3 days.
@@bikinggreg if
This is an awesome 👍 fence post treatment process for any DYI. For certain, fence companies will not do this, and if they do offer this process, you will pay for it.
That tar is good stuff! Usually used around here to paint the exterior of basement walls once they start leaking. Not a fun job digging it out, painting it on then back fill once its dry. But you never have to do it again.
Yep, I remember as a kid playing around basement foundation when houses were being built and they all had tar painted on them.
Creosote what's wrong with that that was the best
Can't buy it anymore. I still have a gallon, works great.
When using concrete, the bottom of the hole should be gravel so water can escape out the bottom.
Thank you very much . I will do that the old way
👍
Here in west virginia there is fence post 100+ years old however they are to the point that there finally falling apart but they well outlasted the the steel barbed wire on them I do believe that they recieved this exact treatment and they are all black locust post which is highly resistant to rot